Rosewood extract

Abstract

The present invention relates to an extract of a rosebush, characterized in that the rosebush is a hybrid obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon and Delgramaue, and in particular to a cosmetic use and a cosmetic method for caring for keratinous materials by using the extract of the rosebush.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of active agents specialized in caring for keratinous materials, such as the skin or integument, and in particular for acting against skin ageing. The present application is primarily in the field of cosmetics. [Background technology]

[0002] Human skin is composed of several compartments, three of which cover the entire body: the superficial compartment, the epidermis; the dermis; and the deep compartment, the subcutaneous tissue.

[0003] The subcutaneous tissue consists essentially of adipocytes, a type of cell that is specialized for the accumulation and storage of fat.

[0004] The dermis is a connective tissue composed of collagen fibers and elastic fibers, as well as glycosaminoglycans, proteoglycans, and fibroblasts. The structure of the tissue results from the arrangement and interaction of extracellular matrix components with fibroblasts, which are involved in its synthesis and degradation. This extracellular matrix is ​​primarily composed of elastin and collagen. Collagen is a fibrous protein present in the extracellular medium of all connective tissues. Among the 20 identified types of collagen, types I and III collagen are the main components of the dermis. They are secreted into the extracellular matrix by fibroblasts in the form of procollagen, consisting of three α-polypeptide chains that form a helical structure.

[0005] The dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ), or basement membrane, is composed of a leaflet of extracellular matrix that separates cells of different origins, namely keratinocytes and fibroblasts. The main components of the DEJ are type IV collagen, a non-fibrous protein that forms a two-dimensional meshwork, and proteoglycans such as laminin, nidogen, and perlecan. Finally, type VII collagen molecules secreted by keratinocytes and fibroblasts form anchoring fibers that provide adhesion between the epidermal basement membrane and the dermis.

[0006] Finally, the epidermis is composed mainly of keratinocytes, but also of other cells, in particular melanocytes, which are located in the basement membrane that separates them from the dermis. Melanocytes are specialized dendritic cells whose function is to synthesize melanin.

[0007] Broadly speaking, three types of epidermal cells are involved in this system: keratinocytes, melanocytes, and certain resident lymphocytes. These cells, found only in the skin, play essential roles in scarring and in re-epithelialization phenomena.

[0008] Re-epithelialization can therefore be conceptually defined as the result of three functions of keratinocytes: migration, proliferation and differentiation.

[0009] Skin aging results from two distinct and independent processes involving intrinsic or extrinsic factors: intrinsic or chronobiological aging corresponds to normal or physiological aging due to aging.

[0010] Over time, especially during chronological and / or photo-aging, the skin undergoes numerous alterations and degradations, which at the tissue level are reflected by a breakdown of the epidermis, the dermal-epidermal junction, the structure of the dermis, as well as the blood supply and innervation system, and by a slowdown or deregulation of various cellular metabolisms, such as those involved in balancing the barrier function or those involved in melanogenesis. At the cellular level, aging is reflected by a decline in the physiology or metabolism of the main cell types, such as dermal fibroblasts, epidermal keratinocytes, and also melanocytes.

[0011] Intrinsic aging is reflected, inter alia, by a slowdown in epidermal cell renewal and the appearance of wrinkles or fine lines. At the dermal level, the biosynthesis of macromolecules, such as collagen, decreases with age, altering the mechanical properties of the dermis and resulting in sagging skin, one of the clinical signs of aging.

[0012] Extrinsic aging generally corresponds to environmentally induced aging, and more particularly to photoaging resulting from exposure to sunlight. Photoinduced skin aging, i.e., aging caused by exposure to sunlight, is also known as photoaging or photodamaged skin (heliodermia).

[0013] Photoaging is the result of collagen fiber degradation at the dermal level, which results in, among other things, clinical deterioration, such as the formation of deep wrinkles and loose, leathery skin. Skin aging is therefore accelerated by long-term exposure to UV light.

[0014] Healthy skin is therefore able to defend itself against external stresses, notably by using its barrier and antimicrobial defense properties, and also its re-epithelialization properties, which in the long term may be reflected by an inhibitory effect on the barrier properties of the skin.

[0015] These stresses can also affect the re-epithelialization properties and impair the processes of epidermal renewal and scarring, stresses that can cause, among other things, the signs of skin aging.

[0016] From a cosmetic point of view, it is therefore possible to prevent and / or treat the signs associated with skin ageing by promoting re-epithelialization, and in particular keratinocyte migration.

[0017] Prior art In particular in the cosmetics field, various compounds have been proposed for caring for keratinous materials.

[0018] An example is French Patent Application Publication No. 2890311, which teaches the cosmetic use of plant extracts from the genus Rosa to prevent or reduce microbial adhesion to skin surfaces and / or mucous membranes.

[0019] French Patent Application Publication No. 2985423 teaches the cosmetic use of dedifferentiated plant cells from Rosa species for the aesthetic care of skin and hair.

[0020] Deshayes et al. ("A 3D in vitro model of the re-epithelialization phase in the wound-healing process"; Experimental Dermatology; Vol. 27, Issue 5, 2017) further reported an in vitro model of re-epithelialization in which punicic acid, ellagic acid, and ascorbic acid were identified as pro-cicatrizing active agents. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0021] However, there is a continuing need for new active agents that are useful for caring for keratinous materials, and in particular, there remains a need for new active agents that are natural and have a positive effect on keratinous materials.

[0022] There remains a need for new active agents that are useful for enhancing the re-epithelialization, regeneration and scarring properties of the epidermis.

[0023] There remains a need for new active agents that are suitable for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of keratinous materials.

[0024] There remains a need for new and useful active agents that can enhance the barrier properties of the skin.

[0025] The object of the present invention is to meet these needs. [Means for solving the problem]

[0026] According to a first subject, the present invention relates to an extract of a rosebush, characterized in that the rosebush is a hybrid obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon and Delgramaue.

[0027] In particular, the rosebush extract may be obtained from the flowers, flower tops and / or leaves of the rosebush.

[0028] In particular, the rosebush extract may be obtained by extraction of the whole or part of the rosebush with an alcoholic mixture using supercritical CO2.

[0029] In particular, the alcoholic extract may be characterized as being obtained after infusing the whole or part of the rosebush in at least one bath containing an alcoholic solvent at a temperature below 50°C to obtain an alcoholic mixture.

[0030] According to a second subject, the present invention relates to a composition comprising an extract of rosebush as previously defined.

[0031] According to a third subject, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of a hybrid rosebush obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon and Delgramaue, or of a composition containing said extract, for caring for keratinous materials.

[0032] In particular, the cosmetic use may be for the purpose of treating and / or preventing cosmetic signs selected from wrinkles, fine lines, wizened skin, loss of skin elasticity and / or tonicity and / or density, loss of radiance of skin complexion, papery appearance of skin, sagging skin, and shriveled appearance of skin.

[0033] According to a fourth subject, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising at least one step consisting of administering to an individual in need thereof, as active agent, an extract of at least one rosebush, characterized in that said rosebush is a hybrid obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon and Delgramaue. [Brief explanation of the drawings]

[0034] [Figure 1] Figure 1 shows a general protocol for obtaining a rose extract by par extraction of floral infusion with supercritical CO. The masses are indicative values ​​and are subject to variation. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0035] Surprisingly, the inventors have identified, in a keratinocyte model in culture, advantageous properties of extracts from a particular hybrid rose plant obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon and Delgramaue.

[0036] The cultivar name Meichibon refers to a rose bush belonging to the genus Rosaceae, which is a hybrid tea rose and is also commercially known as Tchaikovski™, Tchaikovski™ Meichibon, or Meilland rosebush.

[0037] The cultivar name Delgramaue refers to a rose bush belonging to the species Floribunda of the genus Rosaceae, also known commercially as "rose synactif by Shisheido™" (Delbard) or "La Rose du Petit Prince".

[0038] Such hybrid rose bushes may also exhibit abundant white, double leaves that may have some pink tips, an average of five flowers per stem, and a fragrance exhibiting a variety of notes, including (i) grapefruit and citrus-scented rose top notes, (ii) apricot and lychee middle notes, and (iii) a green base note. The rose bushes may reach an average height of about 70-80 cm and width of about 40-50 cm, with branches having a diameter of about 8-10 mm.

[0039] In particular, such hybrid rose plants can be obtained by crossing a "male" variety of the cultivar Delgramaue and a "female" variety of the cultivar Meichibon.

[0040] In particular, such hybrid rose bushes can be obtained by pollination, i.e. by applying pollen from the stamens of "male" flowers, in particular flowers belonging to the variety Delgramaue, onto the pistils of "female" flowers, in particular flowers belonging to the variety Meichibon.

[0041] This hybrid rosebush can be distinguished from the previously defined varieties Meichibon and Delgramaue, inter alia, by the combination of the following characteristics: This type of rosebush generally differs from the Maechibon variety in that it has a greater number of petals, is larger in size, and has more intensely scented flowers with characteristic notes of grapefruit, as already described. The petal color generally differs from that of the Delgramaue variety in that, while the Delgramaue variety is generally white, it has lilac petals, is more vigorous, and is more resistant to a disease known as "black spot of roses."

[0042] Therefore, the inventors have identified the migration-promoting and re-epithelializing potential of the hybrid rose bush extract in an in vitro model of keratinocyte cultures, as described by Deshayes et al. ("A 3D in vitro model of the re-epithelialization phase in the wound-healing process"; Experimental Dermatology; Vol. 27, Issue 5, 2017).

[0043] These migration-promoting and re-epithelializing properties can be advantageously incorporated into the cosmetic or non-cosmetic application of compositions, especially cosmetic compositions, or their preparation, for treating and / or preventing symptoms associated with migration or re-epithelialization defects.

[0044] In particular, the supercritical CO2 extract of the hybrid rose bush has been shown to induce the stimulation of normal human keratinocyte migration in a system that can mimic an artificial homogeneous wound area.The results obtained using the extract are of the same magnitude as those obtained using a positive control (EGF).Therefore, from the first hour of migration, a 50% migration acceleration is observed compared to the positive control.

[0045] Supercritical CO2 extracts generally refer to extracts obtained by a process using CO2 gas in a "supercritical" state, i.e., at high pressure levels (generally above 50 bar, or even above 70 bar) and low temperatures (generally above 30°C and below 50°C).

[0046] According to one embodiment, the extraction is carried out in the presence of CO2 gas in the supercritical state, i.e. at a temperature of at least 31.1°C and a pressure of at least 74.5 bar.

[0047] The supercritical CO2 extract may be obtained according to the protocol described, inter alia, in WO 2012 / 085366 and detailed herein below.

[0048] Thus, extracts of the hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon and Delgramaue can be advantageously used to care for keratinous materials, in particular the skin and its integument, most especially for treating and / or preventing signs of skin ageing, such as wrinkles, fine lines, shriveled skin, loss of elasticity and / or firmness and / or density of the skin, loss of radiance of the skin's complexion, the papery appearance of the skin, sagging skin, the shriveled appearance of the skin.

[0049] The term "keratinous materials" is intended to denote the skin and its integuments, in particular the scalp, hair follicles and keratinous fibres, in particular head hair, eyebrows, eyelashes, beard and moustache, and pubic hair.

[0050] The term "skin" refers to all of the skin of the body, including the scalp, mucous membranes, semimucous membranes, and cutaneous integument.

[0051] The term "skin integument" means body hair, eyelashes, scalp hair and nails. More particularly, scalp hair, neckline, cervical and facial skin, eyelashes and eyebrows are considered in the present invention.

[0052] The term "prevent" also means "to reduce the probability of an event occurring or recurring."

[0053] The term "signs of skin aging" refers to all the alterations in the appearance of the skin due to aging, whether they are chronobiological aging and / or photoaging, that result in loose and wrinkled skin, such as wrinkles and fine lines, shriveled skin, loss of skin elasticity and / or firmness, thinning of the dermis, and / or degradation of collagen fibers. The term is also intended to refer to all internal alterations of the skin that are not systematically reflected by an altered appearance, such as all internal degradation of the skin, more particularly degradation of elastin or elastic fibers.

[0054] Extracts, compositions and preparation processes According to a main embodiment, the invention relates to an extract of rosebush, characterized in that said rosebush is a hybrid obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon and Delgramaue.

[0055] The rose extract according to the invention may be obtained from plant material derived from whole plants or plant parts, such as leaves, stems, flowers, flower tips, petals, sepals or roots, cultivated in vivo or in vitro.

[0056] The term "in vivo culture" means any culture of the standard type, ie in soil in the field or in a greenhouse, or alternatively outside soil.

[0057] The term "in vitro culture" refers to all techniques known to those skilled in the art that allow the artificial production of plants or plant parts, which, under selective pressure, allow the production of standardized, year-round available plant material, as opposed to in vivo cultivated plants.

[0058] In particular, the rosebush extract may be obtained from the flowers, flower tops, and / or leaves.

[0059] According to a second embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising an extract of a rosebush, characterized in that the rosebush is a hybrid obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon and Delgramaue.

[0060] formulation The extract according to the invention can be formulated into any cosmetic composition, in particular for application to the skin, nails or mucous membranes (intraoral buccal, zygomatic, gingival, genital, connective tissue). The composition of the invention can be in any of the commonly used presentation forms, depending on the method of administration to be followed.

[0061] The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0062] The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with keratinous materials, in particular the skin. According to one embodiment, the extract according to the invention may be administered via the topical route.

[0063] According to one embodiment, the rosebush extract according to the invention may be present in and / or administered in a composition comprising at least 0.0001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] According to one embodiment, the rosebush extract according to the invention may be present in and / or administered in a composition comprising at least 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] According to one embodiment, the rosebush extract according to the invention may be present in and / or administered in a composition comprising less than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] According to one embodiment, the rosebush extract according to the invention may be present in and / or administered in a composition comprising less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] According to one embodiment, the rosebush extract according to the invention may be present in and / or administered in a composition comprising at least 0.0001% by weight and not more than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] According to one embodiment, the rosebush extract according to the invention may be present in and / or administered in a composition comprising at least 0.0001% by weight and not more than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] Advantageously, the extract according to the invention can be formulated or dissolved in water or a water-soluble organic solvent, or a mixture thereof.

[0070] Water-soluble organic solvents suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from lower monoalcohols containing 2 to 8 atoms, and C2 to C8, preferably C3 to C6, hydrocarbon-based compounds containing 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably 3 to 5 hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Among the water-soluble organic solvents suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of glycols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, propylene glycol or 1,3-propanediol are most particularly suitable for use in the present invention.

[0072] Among the lower monoalcohols, mention may in particular be made of those containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol.

[0073] In a preferred embodiment, the water-soluble organic solvent is ethanol.

[0074] The water-soluble organic solvent may constitute 20% by weight to 100% by weight of the composition containing it, preferably 30% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably 40% by weight to 80% by weight, more preferably 50% by weight to 70% by weight of the composition containing it.

[0075] Water suitable for use in the present invention may be spring water and / or mineral water, selected in particular from Vittel water, water obtained from the Vichy Basin and La Roche Posay water. Water suitable for use in the present invention may also be floral water, such as rose water.

[0076] Water may constitute 20% to 100% by weight of the composition containing it, preferably 30% to 90% by weight, preferably 40% to 80% by weight, more preferably 50% to 70% by weight of the composition containing it. Advantageously, water constitutes up to 50% by weight of the composition containing it.

[0077] For topical application to keratinous materials, especially the skin or its integument, the compositions may be in the form of, inter alia, aqueous or oily solutions or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, emulsions of the milk type of liquid or semi-liquid consistency obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of the aqueous or anhydrous gel or cream type of soft consistency, or else microcapsules or microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or non-ionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0078] These compositions may comprise cleansing, protective, treatment or care creams for the face, hands, feet, large anatomical wrinkles or body (such as day creams, night creams, makeup creams, makeup remover creams, primer creams or sunscreen creams), fluid foundations, makeup compositions such as makeup remover emulsions, protective or caring body milks, sunscreen emulsions, skin care lotions, gels or foams such as cleansing lotions, sunscreen lotions, artificial tanning lotions, bath compositions, deodorant compositions containing disinfectants, after-shave gels or lotions or shaving creams. These compositions may also consist of solid preparations constituting soaps or cleansing bars or may be packaged in the form of aerosol compositions also containing a pressurized propellant.

[0079] Compositions for making up keratinous materials, such as the eyelashes or eyebrows, may be chosen in particular from mascaras, eyeliners, lipsticks, liquid foundations or powders.

[0080] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: at least one oil, such as a volatile oil, especially a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, and / or at least one fatty substance, e.g., a fatty substance that is solid at 25°C; may include:

[0081] The amounts of the various constituents in the composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in the field under consideration.

[0082] When the composition is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 5% to 80% by weight, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, waxes, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in compositions in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics field. The emulsifiers and coemulsifiers may be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] When the composition is an oily solution or gel, the fatty phase can represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.

[0084] In a known manner, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, screening agents, odor absorbers, and pigments. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those customarily used in the cosmetic field, for example, 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be incorporated into the fatty phase, the aqueous phase, and / or the lipid globules.

[0085] As oils or waxes that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of mineral oils (liquid petrolatum), vegetable oils (liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil), animal oils (perhydrosqualene), synthetic oils (PureCellin oil), silicone oils or waxes (cyclomethicone) and fluoro oils (perfluoropolyethers), beeswax, carnauba wax or paraffin wax. Fatty alcohols and fatty acids (stearic acid) can be added to these oils.

[0086] As emulsifiers that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made, for example, of glyceryl stearate, polysorbate 60, and the PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate mixture sold under the name Tefose™ 63 by the company Gattefossé.

[0087] As solvents that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of lower alcohols, especially ethanol, isopropanol and propylene glycol.

[0088] As hydrophilic gelling agents that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomers), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, natural gums, preferably xanthan gum, and clays, and as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearate, and hydrophobic silica, ethyl cellulose, and polyethylene.

[0089] Preparation Process The extract of the hybrid rosebush according to the invention, obtained by crossing the cultivar Meichibon with the cultivar Delgramaue, may be obtained by any known means.

[0090] For example, the extract according to the present invention can be obtained by extraction with a non-polar volatile solvent derived from petrochemicals, such as hexane, isohexane, cyclohexane, benzene, petroleum ether, propane, or butane. The water from the plant can then be precipitated, and the solvent containing the fragrance can be concentrated under vacuum to obtain the extracted fragrance extract. The extract according to the present invention can also be obtained by steam distillation or hydrodistillation.

[0091] The extract may be an alcoholic mixture obtained by infusing the whole or part of the rosebush in at least one bath containing an alcoholic solvent.

[0092] The general extraction process with supercritical CO2 is known. CO2 has very special properties in the supercritical state, i.e., above 74 bar (especially above 74.4 bar) and above 31°C (especially above 31.1°C), and can be used as a natural extraction solvent. The resulting fluid is characterized by a high diffusivity (approximately that of a gas), which gives the fluid good diffusion capacity, and a high density, which confers high capacity for transport and extraction.

[0093] In a preferred manner, the rosebush extract according to the invention is obtained by a supercritical CO2 extraction process of the whole or part of the rosebush, in particular according to any one of the variants described in WO 2012 / 085366, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0094] Thus, according to this preferred embodiment, the rosebush extract may be obtained by extraction of an alcoholic mixture of all or part of the rosebush with supercritical CO. The alcoholic mixture may also be obtained by infusing all or part of the rosebush in at least one bath containing an alcoholic solvent.

[0095] The supercritical CO2 extraction process according to the present invention can be carried out in static or dynamic mode.

[0096] According to the invention, the CO2 is preferentially used in countercurrent mode at a pressure of 130 to 200 bar and a temperature of 35 to 55°C, and even more preferentially at 150 bar and 45°C, and is particularly suitable for obtaining a clear, transparent and stable extract of fresh flowers and / or leaves, substantially free from sugars, coloring substances and water, and having an alcohol number of at least 75%.

[0097] Advantageously, the process according to the invention also comprises a step in which the extract obtained after extraction with supercritical CO2 is concentrated onto a support, such as natural oil, shea butter, natural glycerol, or natural aromatic molecules, such as natural benzyl acetate, natural geraniol, or natural nerolidol, as obtained under vacuum with mild heating at a temperature below 60°C.

[0098] As examples of alcoholic solvents according to the invention, natural alcohols are used selected from methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, butanol, isobutanol, pentanol and isoamyl alcohol, preferentially ethanol, which have a lower boiling point (except methanol) and, above all, are much less toxic than methanol. The alcoholic solvent may be an ethanol solvent.

[0099] Most particularly, the alcoholic mixture may be obtained after infusion of the flowers, flower tops and / or leaves in at least one bath containing an alcoholic solvent at a temperature below 50°C to obtain an alcoholic or hydroalcoholic mixture, or even a perfumed alcoholic or hydroalcoholic mixture.

[0100] According to the invention, the flowers, flower tops and / or leaves are infused with the alcoholic solvent, preferentially at room temperature, ie at a temperature between 15 and 35°C.

[0101] Thus, the alcohol mixture may be obtained by infusing all or part of the rosebush in at least one bath containing an alcohol solvent.

[0102] The rosebush extract according to the invention is particularly rich in volatile compounds, in particular cis-3-hexenol, trans-2-hexenol, C6 alcohols, diethoxyethanol, methylheptenone, acetin or related compounds, cis-3-hexenyl acetate, hexyl acetate, phenylacetaldehyde, benzyl alcohol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol, diacetin or related compounds, benzyl acetate, diethyl succinate, terpinen-4-ol, nerol, citronellol, geraniol, geranial, Cysteaspirane, delta-elemene, citronellyl acetate, geranyl acetate, alpha-copaene, beta-elemene, coumarin, hydroxyedurane or isomers, beta-caryophyllene, dihydro-beta-ionine, dihydro-beta-ionol, alpha-humulene, gamma-muurolene, germacrene D, alpha-cadinene, beta-bisabolene, gamma-cadinene, gamma-eudesmol, beta-eudesmol, alpha-cadinol, 4-oxo-dihydro-beta-ionol, benzyl benzoate, ethyl myristate, C 19 Alkene, C 19 Alkanes, palmitic acid, ethyl palmitate, C 20 Alkane, C 21 The composition may contain at least one compound selected from alkanes, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linoleate, ethyl linolenate, ethyl stearate, tricosene, tricosane, and dihydro-β-ionol esters.

[0103] In particular, the rosebush extract according to the invention may contain, inter alia, cis-3-hexenol, trans-2-hexenol, C6 alcohols, diethoxyethanol, methylheptenone, acetin or related compounds, cis-3-hexenyl acetate, hexyl acetate, phenylacetaldehyde, benzyl alcohol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol, diacetin or related compounds, benzyl acetate, diethyl succinate, terpinen-4-ol, nerol, citronellol, geraniol, geranial , cysteaspirane, delta-elemene, citronellyl acetate, geranyl acetate, alpha-copaene, beta-elemene, coumarin, hydroxyedurane or isomers, beta-caryophyllene, dihydro-beta-ionine, dihydro-beta-ionol, alpha-humulene, gamma-muurolene, germacrene D, alpha-cadinene, beta-bisabolene, gamma-cadinene, gamma-eudesmol, beta-eudesmol, alpha-cadinol, 4-oxo-dihydro-beta-ionol, benzyl benzoate, ethyl myristate, C 19 Alkene, C 19 Alkanes, palmitic acid, ethyl palmitate, C 20 Alkane, C 21 The composition may contain a plurality of compounds selected from alkanes, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linoleate, ethyl linolenate, ethyl stearate, tricosene, tricosane, and dihydro-β-ionol esters.

[0104] The rosebush extract according to the invention, obtained in particular by extraction with supercritical CO2, may contain, for example, at least one compound chosen from geraniol, geranial, nerol and citronellol.

[0105] According to one embodiment, the rosebush extract according to the invention may also contain at least one compound chosen from cis- or trans-theaspirane, dihydro-beta-ionone, dihydro-beta-ionol, 4-oxodihydro-beta-ionol.

[0106] During infusion, the flowers, flower tips and / or leaves may be submerged in the alcohol solvent and gently swirled.

[0107] Advantageously, the infusion is carried out using a solvent circulation in a closed circuit, i.e. the solvent is circulated over the flowers, flower tips and / or leaves, in particular to move the petals to the extractor without breaking them and to avoid a saturated zone of the solvent around the petals.The circulating therefore provides a solvent that is less saturated and thus performs the extraction.Alternatively, the infusion can be carried out in several baths, either consecutive or consecutive, depending on the amount of flowers and / or leaves to be treated.

[0108] For example, when the final weight / weight ratio of flowers-leaves / alcohol solvent is between 1:1 and 1:10, preferentially between 1:1 and 1:3, it is possible to prepare a single bath followed by rinsing with fresh extraction solvent, to prepare several baths containing the flowers and / or leaves, or even to pass the flowers and / or leaves in and out of the same bath several times due to the low saturation of the ethanol.

[0109] For example, it may be advantageous to transfer the flowers and / or leaves several times, for example five times, in the same alcohol bath to saturate the alcohol, thereby making it possible to concentrate the primary alcohol extract, which proves more economical in terms of the volumes transported and treated when the process for obtaining the extract includes an extraction step with supercritical CO2.

[0110] According to the process, the flowers, flower tips and / or leaves are then dehydrated, generally avoiding excessive crushing, and the alcoholic mixture thus obtained is filtered to collect an alcoholic floral infusion suitable for keeping refrigerated at a temperature of about 4-10°C for a period of one day to several months.

[0111] Therefore, the process for obtaining the rose bush extract is: a) infusing the whole or part of a hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing the cultivar Meichibon with the cultivar Delgramaue in at least one bath containing an alcoholic solvent, in particular an ethanolic solvent, at a temperature below 50°C to obtain an alcoholic mixture; b) optionally filtering the alcoholic mixture to collect the alcoholic floral infusion; c) carrying out extraction of the alcohol mixture or the alcoholic floral infusion with supercritical CO2 to obtain the extract; may include:

[0112] The process for obtaining rose bush extract is: a) picking the flowers, flower tips and / or leaves of a hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing the cultivar Meichibon with the cultivar Delgramaue; b) infusing the flowers, flower tips and / or leaves provided in step a) in at least one bath containing an alcoholic solvent, in particular an ethanolic solvent, at a temperature below 50°C to obtain an alcoholic mixture; c) optionally filtering the alcoholic mixture to collect the alcoholic floral infusion; d) extracting the alcohol mixture or the alcoholic floral infusion with supercritical CO2 to obtain the extract; may include:

[0113] Cosmetic or therapeutic indications The extract of the hybrid rose bush according to the invention, obtained by crossing the cultivar Meichibon with the cultivar Delgramaue, promotes and strengthens the scarring and re-epithelialization phenomenon.

[0114] The extract according to the invention therefore makes it possible to increase the resistance of the skin barrier, notably by strengthening the re-epithelialization phenomenon.

[0115] Experimental data collected in an in vitro model of re-epithelialization show that the extract is an efficient active agent for improving the re-epithelialization and migration phenomena, in particular for reducing or even slowing or preventing the accumulation of damaged epidermal cells and also for improving epidermal regeneration.

[0116] All these effects have allowed the inventors to define novel active compositions, the properties of which are found to be particularly advantageous and remarkable for the care of keratinous materials, in particular those concerned with skin disorders associated with re-epithelialization, in particular cicatrization disorders, or involving age-related deficiencies of said re-epithelialization process in the skin or hair follicles.

[0117] Deficiencies in the re-epithelialization process may be caused or exacerbated by chronobiological or photo-induced aging of the skin.

[0118] The present invention therefore relates, according to one of its main subjects, to the cosmetic use of an extract of a hybrid rosebush obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon and Delgramaue, or of a composition containing said extract, for caring for keratinous materials.

[0119] According to a particular embodiment, the symptoms considered are symptoms that may be associated with ageing, in particular skin ageing.

[0120] In particular, the signs of skin aging targeted by the present invention relate to all alterations in the appearance of the skin resulting from aging, whether chronological and / or photoinduced, such as thinning of the epidermis, and / or the firmness, elasticity, density and / or tautness of the epidermis, and / or the formation of wrinkles and fine lines.

[0121] The extract may therefore be incorporated in the context of cosmetic use to treat and / or prevent cosmetic signs selected from wrinkles, fine lines, shriveled skin, loss of skin elasticity and / or firmness and / or density, loss of skin complexion and radiance, papery appearance of skin, sagging skin and shriveled appearance of skin.

[0122] According to another subject, the invention relates to a cosmetic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising at least one step consisting of administering to an individual in need thereof, as an active agent, an extract of at least one rosebush, characterized in that said rosebush is a hybrid obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon and Delgramaue.

[0123] According to yet another subject, the present invention relates to a pharmaceutical or dermatological composition comprising said extract for preventing and / or treating re-epithelialization disorders, in particular scarring.

[0124] Alternatively, according to another subject matter, the invention relates to the use of said extract for the preparation of a composition for preventing and / or treating re-epithelialization disorders, in particular scarring.

[0125] According to a preferred embodiment, the extract according to the invention may be administered via the topical route.

[0126] Example

[0127] Example 1 Production of supercritical CO2 extract of white rose The hybrid rose cultivar is obtained by controlled crossing of two cultivars: a maternal cultivar (Tchaikovsky™ Meichibon) and a paternal cultivar (La Rose du Petit Prince / Rose Synactif by Shisheido™ Delgramaue).

[0128] The maternal line is also known by its botanical name Maechibon. The paternal line is also known by its botanical name Delgramau.

[0129] The protocol adopted to obtain the "supercritical CO2" extract is the protocol described in patent application WO 2012 / 085366.

[0130] Briefly, the protocol consists in obtaining an extract from fresh and / or slightly withered rose flowers, flower tips and / or leaves according to the invention, said protocol comprising: a) picking rose flowers, flower tips and / or leaves; b) infusing the freshly picked flowers, flower tips and / or leaves in at least one bath containing an ethanol solvent at a temperature below 50°C, for example at room temperature, to obtain an alcohol mixture (in this case an ethanol mixture); c) filtering the alcohol mixture to collect the alcoholic floral infusion; d) extraction of the alcoholic floral infusion with supercritical CO2 ("CO2sc extraction" in Figure 1) at 45°C and 150 bar pressure to obtain the extract; e) the extract is concentrated under moderate vacuum (100-500 mbar) at a temperature not exceeding 60°C; Includes:

[0131] Example 2 Keratinocyte migration and re-epithelialization assay A. Materials and Methods A1. Keratinocyte Culture and Treatment Keratinocytes were seeded in culture medium in a 96-well plate and then subjected to migration analysis (reference name Platypus Oris™ Collagen I Coated Plate). In this plate, the wells were saturated with collagen solution, and a cover was placed in the center of each well to prevent cell adhesion in this area, thus forming an artificial wound (migration area). After the cells adhered, the cover was discarded and the cells were labeled with calcein-AM. After 30 minutes of incubation, images were taken (T0), and then the medium was replaced with assay medium containing or not containing the test extract or the reference (EGF) (control). The cells were incubated, and image analysis was performed kinetically at 14 hours (T14), 18 hours (T18), and 24 hours (T24). The cells were again labeled with calcein-AM and incubated for 30 min before the images were taken at time T14. All experimental conditions were performed in triplicate.

[0132] A2.Migration analysis The cell migration area was monitored after 0, 14, 18, and 24 hours of incubation using a high-resolution imaging system, INCell Analyzer™ 2200 automated microscope (GE Healthcare) (4x lens), and the surface area of ​​the artificial wound was analyzed using Image J software. The surface area of ​​the artificial wound (the central area without cells) was measured at TO and after 14, 18, and 24 hours of incubation. To monitor and quantify the wound coverage, the damage measurements after 14, 18, and 24 hours of incubation were related to the initial surface area measured at TO. The effect of the compound on the migration was compared with that of an untreated control. The results are shown in Tables 1 to 3 below.

[0133] B. Results Under the control conditions, migration of the normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) was moderate, with an average coverage of 41% of the wound surface area after 14 hours of incubation. Within the next few hours, NHEK migration increased, reaching an average coverage of 55% after 24 hours of incubation.

[0134] Under the experimental conditions of this study, the rose supercritical CO extract (CO sc extract) according to the invention induces a stimulation of the migration of normal human keratinocytes in a system, thereby making it possible to mimic the area of ​​a homogeneous artificial wound. The results obtained with the extract are surprisingly similar in magnitude to those obtained with the positive control (EGF). A 50% acceleration of migration relative to the positive control is observed within the first hour of migration.

[0135] [Table 1]

[0136] [Table 2]

[0137] [Table 3]

[0138] For Tables 1 to 3 above, the statistical significance thresholds are as follows: * : 0.01~0.05. significant ** : 0.001~0.01. Highly significant *** : <0.001. Highly significant

[0139] Example 3 An anti-wrinkle emulsion was prepared having the following composition: Oil phase 9% Surfactant 2% Meichibon x Delgrama Uebara CO2 Extract 0.001% Aqueous phase % Polymer 40% Preservative 0.50% Alcohol 3% Appropriate amount of water

[0140] The percentage values ​​indicated correspond to mass percentages by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] Example 4 Comparative study with a second hybrid rosebush extract In this study, an extract of the hybrid rose plant Meijibon x delgramaue obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 according to the present invention is compared with a propylene glycol / water extract of another hybrid rose plant Rosa x centifolia.

[0142] A. Materials and Methods A1. Tested extracts The supercritical CO2 extract is obtained as already detailed in Example 1.

[0143] The propylene glycol / water extract of Rosa Centifolia flower extract (INCI: Propylene glycol (and) Water (and) Rosa Centifolia flower extract) used throughout this example is sold by GATTEFOSSE SAS (36, Chemin de Genas - BP603-F-69804 Saint-Priest Cedex - France). Its characteristics are as follows:

[0144] [Table 4]

[0145] A2. Other reagents The keratinocytes tested were NHEK cells (Bioalternatives K593; passage 3) cultured at 37°C under 5% CO. The cell culture medium was Keratinocyte-SFM medium supplemented with 0.25 ng / mL epidermal growth factor (EGF), 25 μg / mL pituitary extract (EP), and 25 μg / mL gentamicin. The test medium was the same as that described above, except that it did not contain EGF or EP.

[0146] A3. Movement analysis The protocol is as defined in Example 1.

[0147] The percentage of recovery (%) is defined as 100-[(wound recovery) / (wound surface at TO) x 100]. Comparison between groups is achieved using a two-tailed Student's t-test (unpaired). A p-value of greater than 0.05 is considered not statistically relevant. A p-value of 0.05 or less is considered statistically relevant, and * ) A p-value of 0.01 or less is considered highly statistically relevant and is marked ( ** ) A p-value of 0.001 or less is considered statistically highly relevant and is marked ( *** )

[0148] A4. Preliminary Cytotoxicity Test The tested cells correspond to NHEK cells incubated for 24 hours in the test medium, and are evaluated both in the MTT assay (tetrazolium salt) and in a microscopic morphological study.

[0149] B. Results Under the control conditions, the migration of normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) was moderate, and after 14 hours of incubation, the average coverage of the wound surface area was 30%. Within the next few hours, the migration of NHEK increased, and after 24 hours of incubation, the average coverage reached 37%. EGF at 10 ng / mL significantly stimulated the migration of NHEK, and this effect was observed after 14 hours, 18 hours, and 24 hours of incubation (221%, 223%, and 208%, respectively, compared to the untreated sample). This result was expected and validated the study.

[0150] Next, an extract of the hybrid rose bush Meijibon x delgramaue (according to the invention) was tested at 0.01% and 0.03%, which significantly increased keratinocyte migration in a concentration-dependent manner by 141% and 160%, respectively, after 14 hours of incubation, compared to the control condition. Stimulate Under these conditions, the stimulatory effect is found to be of similar magnitude for all incubation conditions (14 h, 18 h, and 24 h).

[0151] The detailed results (corresponding to a 14 hour incubation) are provided in Table 5 below.

[0152] In comparison, a propylene glycol / water extract of the hybrid rosebush Rosa x Centifolia was tested at 0.366% and 1.1%. This extract significantly and concentration-dependently inhibited keratinocyte migration after 14 hours of incubation when compared to the control condition. suppress It is found that the inhibitory effect is similar for all incubation conditions (14, 18, and 24 hours) under these conditions (50% and 24% of the control condition, respectively).

[0153] Thus, the hybrid rose extract according to the invention is found to have a stimulatory effect on keratinocyte migration in vitro, whereas another hybrid rose extract not belonging to the invention has an inhibitory effect.

[0154] [Table 5]

[0155] The extract marked with (I) corresponds to an extract of the hybrid rosebush Meijibon x delgramaue according to the invention.

[0156] The extract marked as "Rosa" corresponds to a propylene glycol / water extract of the hybrid rosebush Rosa x Centifolia.

[0157] Each wound surface value was calculated as the average of three images.

[0158] The percentage values ​​indicated correspond to mass percentages by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Claims

1. An extract of a rosebush, characterized in that the rosebush is a hybrid obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon and Delgramaue, and the hybrid is obtained by crossing the maternal variety Meichibon with the paternal variety Delgramaue.

2. 2. The rosebush extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the rosebush extract is obtained from the flowers, flower tops and / or leaves of the rosebush.

3. The rosebush extract is prepared by subjecting the whole or part of the rosebush to supercritical CO 2 extraction in an alcoholic mixture. ２ 3. A rosebush extract according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is obtained by extraction with

4. 4. Rosewood extract according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the alcoholic mixture is obtained after infusing the whole or part of the rosewood in at least one bath containing an alcoholic solvent at a temperature below 50°C.

5. A composition comprising an extract of rosebush according to any one of claims 1 to 4.

6. Cosmetic use of an extract of a hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon and Delgramaue, or of a composition containing said extract, for caring for keratinous materials.

7. 7. The cosmetic use according to claim 6 for treating and / or preventing cosmetic signs selected from wrinkles, fine lines, shriveled skin, loss of skin elasticity and / or firmness and / or density, loss of radiance of skin complexion, papery appearance of skin, sagging skin and shriveled appearance of skin.

8. A cosmetic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising at least one step consisting of administering to an individual in need thereof an extract of at least one rose plant as an active agent, characterized in that the rose plant is a hybrid obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon and Delgramaue, characterized in that the hybrid is obtained by crossing the maternal variety Meichibon with the paternal variety Delgramaue.

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