Oil extract from Gardenia jasminoides flowers and cosmetic composition containing the extract

Abstract

To provide polyfunctional active agents which could act on a set of causes of alterations of the skin due to aging and / or to a modification of the age-related physiological mechanisms.SOLUTION: The invention provides an oil extract from Gardenia jasminoides flowers obtained by extraction from powder of Gardenia jasminoides flowers with supercritical CO2, and the process of obtaining such an extract. More specifically, a cosmetic composition including such an oil extract from Gardenia jasminoides flowers having an antiaging effect for skin is provided.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The object of the present invention is an oil extract from the flowers of Gardenia jasminoides, which is characterized in that it can be obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 from the flowers, and in particular, for preventing and / or treating skin alterations caused by aging, or due to physiological mechanisms related to age, or due to problems related to those mechanisms, and also their use in cosmetics.

Background Art

[0002] The skin is generally made up of three layers, specifically, starting from the outermost surface, the epidermis, the dermis and the subcutaneous tissue.

[0003] The outer layer of the skin, the epidermis, is stratified and mainly contributes to protecting the skin against external attacks. The dermis is a connective tissue that confers both the functions of adhesion and nutrition to the skin.

[0004] Skin aging results from two separate and independent processes, including internal factors and external factors.

[0005] Internal or circadian aging corresponds to the "normal" or physiological aging related to age.

[0006] External aging generally corresponds to aging caused by the environment, and more specifically, to photoaging caused by exposure to sunlight.

[0007] The present invention is concerned with internal or physiological skin aging and also with external skin aging.

[0008] Skin aging is accompanied by the transformation of connective tissue and a decline in cell regeneration capacity. This effect is observed through the appearance of fine lines and patches over time. Microcirculation is reduced near the superficial dermis. High molecular weights such as collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans, one of which is hyaluronic acid, undergo chemical alteration. Even the thickness of the dermis regresses, fibers deteriorate, and the skin loses its biomechanical properties and elasticity. Chemical and enzymatic oxidation increases with age, leading to an increase in cross-linking reactions between fibers, such as collagen fibers.

[0009] A variety of changes can be observed in aging, including the following: - Tissue breakdown of elastin fibers, leading to a loss of strength, flexibility, and elasticity, or the appearance of spider veins. - Reduction in radiance due to reduced microcirculation, slower cell regeneration near the epidermis, and the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles. - Yellowing of the skin accompanied by the appearance of parchment associated with the appearance of pigment spots related to dysfunction of melanin synthesis (melanin formation), - Skin dryness resulting from a reduction in the barrier function of the stratum corneum and a slowdown in epidermal regeneration.

[0010] For this reason, there is a need to provide a multifunctional surfactant that can act on a range of causes of skin deterioration, including those resulting from aging and / or changes in physiological mechanisms related to age.

[0011] Gardenia is a genus of plants belonging to the Rubiaceae family, containing approximately 250 species of flowering plants native to tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, South Asia, Australasia, and Oceania. Generally aqueous extracts from their flowers are sought after for use in perfumery.

[0012] However, for cosmetic formulations, which are mostly non-aqueous compositions such as makeup compositions, it is desirable to have an oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides.

[0013] While oil from the fruit of Gardenia jasminoides has already been studied, there has been little scientific research on extracts from its flowers.

[0014] Application CN104905999 proposed an oil extract of gardenia flowers for use in perfumes. The desired oil extract is therefore fragrant, volatile, fragile, and obtainable only under extremely mild extraction temperature and pressure conditions. The extract described in this application is obtained under mild conditions (35°C / 15-20 MPa) by supercritical CO2 extraction from fresh gardenia flowers to preserve the fragrant molecules in the extract. Similarly, FR2969656 seeks to obtain fragrant extracts from the fresh flowers or leaves of various fragile flowers. Here again, to preserve the fragrant molecules during extraction, the method described in FR2969656 is operated under extremely mild pressure conditions (20 MPa) and a moderate temperature (55°C, preferably 45°C).

[0015] The applicant of the present invention has now, to great surprise, demonstrated that oil extracted from dried Gardenia jasminoides flowers under supercritical CO2, under more intense temperature and pressure conditions, is active in treating symptoms caused by aging or age-related physiological mechanisms, or related problems associated with these mechanisms in the epidermis and / or dermis.

[0016] This observation led to the completion of a novel non-therapeutic cosmetic composition, more specifically, a non-therapeutic cosmetic composition useful for all applications where it is required to act on symptoms resulting from aging, or age-related physiological mechanisms, or problems related to these mechanisms in the epidermis and / or near the dermis. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]

[0017] [Patent Document 1] CN104905999 [Patent Document 2] FR2969656 [Overview of the Initiative] [Means for solving the problem]

[0018] Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to a method for preparing an oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers, comprising the step of extracting from at least Gardenia jasminoides flower powder with supercritical CO2 at a temperature between 40 and 80°C, preferably between 43 and 75°C, more preferably between 50 and 70°C, more preferably between 55 and 65°C, more preferably between 57 and 62°C, and at a pressure between 25 and 50 MPa, preferably between 30 and 45 MPa, more preferably between 35 and 45 MPa, and even more preferably between 40 and 45 MPa.

[0019] Such a method does not work to extract fragrance molecules from Gardenia jasminoides flowers because the molecules are destroyed at the claimed pressure and temperature. Similarly, it allows for the extraction of novel, unexpected molecules with anti-aging properties in the cosmetic in question.

[0020] Another object of the present invention is an oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers obtained by such a method. The oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers according to the present invention is rich in nonpolar molecules such as sterols in an oil solvent.

[0021] According to a third aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil extract from the flower of Gardenia jasminoides according to the present invention in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0022] Finally, according to a fourth aspect, an object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic use such as those described above for preventing and / or treating skin alterations caused by aging or photoaging of an oil extract of the flowers of Gardenia jasminoides.

Brief Description of the Drawings

[0023] [Figure 1] Shows an increase in the expression of the genes TIMP1 and TIMP2 in melanocytes after treatment at 0.25% with an oil extract from the flowers of Gardenia jasminoides according to the present invention.

Mode for Carrying Out the Invention

[0024] Gardenia jasminoides Gardenia jasminoides J. Ellis (synonymous with Gardenia florida) is a genus of flowering plants in the Rubiaceae family.

[0025] Evergreen shrubs of the Rubiaceae family such as coffee and Tahitian gardenia are 0.3 to 3 m in height.

[0026] Its leaves are thick, dark green, and shiny.

[0027] The genus Gardenia includes about 250 species of flowering plants and is native to tropical to subtropical regions of Africa, South Asia, Australasia, and Oceania. Gardenia jasminoides is also known by the names Gardenia angustifolia Lodd, Gardenia grandiflora Lour, Genipa Florida (L.) Baill, Genipa grandiflora (Lour.) Baill, and Jasminum capense Mill.

[0028] This spectacular flowering plant, which blooms year-round in warmer climates and from late spring to early summer (March to July) in cooler climates, emits a very pleasant fragrance and is often double-flowered with extremely large white petals.

[0029] Depending on the variety, this white flower has a fragrance similar to jasmine. Gardenia jasminoides is also known by the name Cape jasmine. Gardenia jasminoides is used in traditional Chinese medicine for its diverse properties (emollient, emetic, diuretic, anthelmintic, antispasmodic, antiseptic, analgesic). The fruit is oval, a yellow or yellow-orange berry containing slightly curved seeds.

[0030] The extract according to the present invention is obtained from the flowers of Gardenia jasminoides, preferably from white flowers, and more specifically from the variety 'Kleim's Hardy' with single flowers 5 cm in diameter and the variety 'Crown Jewel' with double flowers 7 cm in diameter. Preferably, the Gardenia jasminoides flowers used in the present invention are cultivated in Gojac, France.

[0031] The extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers is preferably obtained in the form of a dispersible dry powder. Dispersible is understood to mean that the Gardenia jasminoides flower powder is obtained in a separated form that can be finely dispersed, for example, that the raw material is in particulate form, preferably in powder form. Fresh Gardenia jasminoides flowers are separated from the stems, then opened, and laid flat on a grid, for example, in the first step. They are then dehydrated under gentle conditions, either in sunlight or under vacuum at a temperature of about 40°C. The flowers are preferably dried until a dry matter content of more than 80%, preferably more than 85%, is achieved.

[0032] The flowers are then reduced to a dispersible powder by any conventional milling method known to those skilled in the art, for example, at room temperature in a cutting mill, or, according to one preferred embodiment, by low-temperature milling. For low-temperature milling, the flowers are preferably cooled to -80°C and immediately milled in a helical mixer at a temperature between -20 and -80°C to obtain a fine, homogeneous powder. Freezing is advantageous in ensuring good preservation of the hydration of molecules contained in the flowers.

[0033] Preferably, the dispersible powder of Gardenia jasminoides flowers used for the preparation of the extract according to the present invention has an average particle size of less than 500 μm, preferably less than 300 μm. The powder of Gardenia jasminoides flowers has a mild floral scent and a color ranging from creamy white to reddish-brown.

[0034] Method for preparing oil extract from Gardenia jasminoides flowers According to one essential aspect of the present invention, the oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers comprises at least one extraction step from Gardenia jasminoides flower powder in supercritical CO2 under specific temperature and pressure conditions.

[0035] Effectively, the applicant's achievement is demonstrating that by advancing oil extraction from Gardenia jasminoides flowers in supercritical CO2 under specific temperature and pressure conditions, it is possible to obtain an extract rich in nonpolar molecules such as sterols, which has shown entirely unexpected efficacy in combating skin aging and photoaging.

[0036] More specifically, the extraction with supercritical CO2 is carried out at a temperature between 40 and 80°C, preferably between 43 and 75°C, more preferably between 50 and 70°C, more preferably between 55 and 65°C, and more preferably between 57 and 62°C, and at a pressure between 25 and 50 MPa, preferably between 30 and 45 MPa, more preferably between 35 and 45 MPa, and even more preferably between 40 and 45 MPa.

[0037] In one preferred embodiment, the CO2 flow rate is at least 150 g / min, preferably 200 g / min.

[0038] CO2 has the advantages of being non-flammable, non-toxic, odorless, and readily available, because it is the main component of air.

[0039] Extraction with supercritical CO2 is carried out in the presence of an oil solvent preferably selected from squalane, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic acid and capric triglyceride, and vegetable oils.

[0040] Vegetable oils can be selected from, for example, camellia oil, canola oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, sesame oil, apricot kernel oil, grape seed oil, sweet almond oil, safflower oil, hazelnut oil, argan oil, musk rose oil, common evening primrose oil, borage oil, liquid jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] According to one preferred practice, extraction using supercritical CO2 is carried out in the presence of squalane.

[0042] It has been observed that adding squalane during extraction using supercritical CO2 resulted in better solubilization of target molecules present in Gardenia flowers. Furthermore, squalane has the advantage of possessing biomimetic properties with skin, because it is a natural component of human sebum and forms a hydrolipidic film on the skin. The use of squalane is compatible with extract formulations in cosmetic compositions, as it imparts a silky effect to the skin and penetrates immediately.

[0043] According to one particular embodiment, an oil solvent, preferably squalane, is added during the extraction process with supercritical CO2 in a volume ratio of CO2 to the oil solvent between 200:1 and 50:1.

[0044] When approximately 1 kg of Gardenia jasminoides flowers are extracted per batch, the extraction process using supercritical CO2 is preferably carried out for a period of time ranging from 30 minutes to 6 hours, preferably from 1 to 3 hours.

[0045] In the context of the present invention, at the end of the supercritical CO2 extraction step, the pressure may be reduced to a pressure of 7.4 MPa or less, preferably less than 6 MPa, in order to ensure that all CO2 has truly returned to a gaseous state.

[0046] According to one particular embodiment, the method according to the present invention comprises at least the following steps: i) The process of drying and milling fresh Gardenia jasminoides flowers, ii) A step of extracting from the flower powder of Gardenia jasminoides with supercritical CO2 at a temperature between 40 and 80°C, preferably between 43 and 75°C, more preferably between 50 and 70°C, more preferably between 55 and 65°C, more preferably between 57 and 62°C, and at a pressure between 25 and 50 MPa, preferably between 30 and 45 MPa, more preferably between 35 and 45 MPa, and still more preferably between 40 and 45 MPa, for example, for 30 minutes to 6 hours, preferably in the presence of an oil solvent such as squalane, iii) A step of evaporating CO2 by reducing the pressure to 7.4 MPa or less, preferably 6 MPa or less, iv) Add an alcohol stream, preferably ethanol, optionally to collect a mixture of Gardenia jasminoides flower powder and a solvent, particularly squalane, and then evaporate the alcohol. v) Adding oil solvent, specifically squalane, until the mass ratio of dried flowers to oil solvent is 1:5 to 1:20, vi) a step of clarifying the oil extract of the flowers of Gardenia jasminoides, and the following:

[0047] For finishing purposes, the method according to the present invention includes one or more steps for clarifying the oil extract.

[0048] Clarification is understood to mean mechanical separation, as is known to those skilled in the art. These can be selected from, for example, filtration, decanting, centrifugation, spinning, or a combination of these techniques.

[0049] According to one preferred embodiment, clarification is performed by filtration on a membrane having a porosity of 4 μm or less, or even more precisely, a porosity of 2 μm.

[0050] The clarification process works to obtain a product that is both visually clear and free of suspended particulate matter.

[0051] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the method for preparing an oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers according to the present invention comprises the following steps: i.1) A process of drying Gardenia jasminoides flowers in sunlight or under vacuum at 40°C, i.2) The process of milling the dried flowers and adding them to the cage of a supercritical CO2 extractor, ii.1) A process of compressing carbon dioxide to a pressure equivalent to 45 MPa on a laboratory scale or 30 MPa on an industrial scale, ii.2) A step of mixing compressed CO2 with a cosmetic extraction solvent, specifically squalane, in a volume ratio of CO2 to squalane of 99:1, ii.3) A step of sending the mixture obtained from step i.2 into a heat exchanger and bringing it to a temperature of 60°C, ii.4) Extract for at least 1 hour and 30 minutes, during which time the mixture from step i.2 is passed through a basket containing dried gardenia flowers at a rate of at least 200 g / min to diffuse the extracted molecules into the mixture. iii) A step of reducing the pressure of the supercritical CO2 / squalane / gardenia extract mixture to approximately 50 bar so that the CO2 becomes a gas again, iv.1) A step of sending an ethanol stream to extrude the squalane / gardenia extract mixture and sending the mixture into the recovery unit of the extraction system, iv.2) A step of taking the mixture by utilizing the pressure difference between the system and the external environment, and obtaining an ethanol / squalane / gardenia extract mixture (because CO2 has evaporated), iv.3) A step of evaporating the remaining ethanol under vacuum, v) Adding oil solvent, specifically squalane, until the mass ratio of dried flowers to oil solvent is 1:10, vi) A step of clarifying the oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers by filtering it through a membrane having a porosity of less than 1 μm and removing any possible precipitates.

[0052] Flower oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides The present invention, which is the subject of this application, also encompasses oil extracts from the flowers of Gardenia jasminoides obtained by the method described above.

[0053] The object of the present invention is also an oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers, which is rich in nonpolar molecules such as sterols.

[0054] Cosmetic composition Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an oil extract from at least one Gardenia jasminoides flower in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0055] The compositions practiced by the present invention generally contain, in addition to the extracts described above, a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetic-compatible medium, which means that they are suitable for use in contact with human skin without the risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, or allergic reactions, and more specifically, without causing unpleasant sensations (redness, tightness, stinging).

[0056] Advantageously, the cosmetic or dermatological composition may be in the form of a powder, emulsion, microemulsion, nanoemulsion, or suspension, or in the form of a lotion, cream, aqueous gel or water-alcohol solution, foam, serous solution, aerosol solution or dispersion, or lipid vesicle dispersion.

[0057] In the case of emulsions, it may be an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0058] The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the present invention may also include a solvent selected based on a variety of components and forms of administration.

[0059] Examples include: water (preferably desalted water or floral water), alcohol such as ethanol.

[0060] The cosmetic composition may also contain, in addition to the extract according to the present invention, the following: - At least one additive typical in this field, such as at least one compound selected from emollients or wetting agents, gelling agents and / or thickeners, surfactants, oils, active ingredients, colorants, preservatives, antioxidants, organic or inorganic powders, sunscreens, and fragrances. - One or more wetting agents, polyols (glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol, etc.), sugars, hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycans such as salts and esters thereof, and polyquaternium such as lipidure PMB. The wetting agents will be present in the composition at a concentration of 0 to 30%, preferably 0.005 to 10%, relative to the total mass of the composition. - One or more emollients, such as jojoba esters, esters of fatty acids and aliphatic alcohols (octyldodecyl myristate, trimethylhexanoin, dicaprylyl carbonate, isostearyl isostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride), butters such as shea butter (shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii) butter extract, shea butter ethyl ester, sold under the names LIPEX SHEASOFT, LIPEX SHEA-U, LIPEX SHEA, LIPEX SHEALIGHT, LIPEX SHEA TRIS), or Moringa (moringa oil / hydrogenated moringa oil ester), waxes [Acacia decurrens flower wax & sunflower (Helianthus annuus) seed wax, C 10 ~C 18 The emollient may be selected from triglycerides, vegetable oils, phytosqualanes, and alkanes (undecane, tridecane). The emollient will be present in the composition at a concentration of 0.1 to 30%, preferably 0.5 to 10%, relative to the total mass of the composition. - One or more gelling agents and / or thickening agents for the aqueous phase, which are selected from, for example, cellulose derivatives, plant-derived gums (guar, carob, alginate, carrageenan, pectin), microbial-derived (xanthine), clay (laponite), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers and copolymers, hydrophilic or amphiphilic, acryloyl methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and / or acrylamide and / or acrylic acid and / or salts or esters of acrylic acid (names ARISTOFLEX AVC, Aristoflex AVS, Aristoflex HMB, SIMULGEL NS, Simulgel EG, Simulgel 600, Simulgel 800, Pemulen, carbopol, Sepiplus 400, Seppimax zen, Sepiplus S, sold under COSMEDIA SP). The gelling agents and / or thickening agents shall be present in the composition at a concentration of 0.1 to 10% relative to the total mass of the composition. - One or more surfactants, lecithin, polyglycerol derivatives, sugar derivatives (glucoside or xyloside derivatives sold under the names MONTANOV 68, MONTANOV 202, Montanov 82, MONTANOV L, EASYNOV), phosphate (C sold under the name SENSANOV WR) 20 ~C 22 (Alkyl phosphate, etc.) The surfactant will be present in a concentration of 0.1 to 8% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition. - One or more active ingredients, which are of natural, biotechnological or synthetic origin, that have biological activity and are effective on the skin via biological sites, such as vitamin C and its derivatives (ascorbyl glucoside, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, tetraisopalmitate ascorbyl), vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin B3 or niacinamide, vitamins such as panthenol, minority elements, allantoin, adenosine, peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-5 (sold under the names NP RIGIN, MATRIXYL 3000, IDEALIFT, EYESERYL)), plant extracts [licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) extract, centella asiatica leaf extract, rye (Secale) The active ingredient is selected from [cereale seed extract], yeast extract, alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid or lactic acid, tranexamic acid such as cetyltranexamic acid ester and its derivatives, and others. The active ingredient will be present in the composition at a concentration of 0.1 to 10% relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0061] Other additives typically used in cosmetics may also be present in the compositions according to the present invention, more specifically, preservatives, antioxidants, or fragrances well known in the art.

[0062] A person skilled in the art can select both the type and amount of additives to be added to the composition from a possible set of additives, such that the composition retains all of its properties.

[0063] Another object of the present invention is the cosmetic use of the oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers to prevent and / or treat skin changes caused by aging or photoaging.

[0064] In detail, the oil extract from Gardenia jasminoides flowers can be used to provide a smoothing, anti-aging effect.

[0065] In this embodiment, the extract or composition is applied to altered skin, but not to pathological skin.

[0066] Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of Gardenia jasminoides flower oil extracts, such as those described above, as inhibitors of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activity.

[0067] Finally, the present invention targets the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of Gardenia jasminoides flower oil extracts, such as those previously described as activators that stimulate cellular metabolism, particularly the expression of TIMP1 and / or TIMP2 genes.

[0068] Herein, the present invention is illustrated by the following non-limiting embodiments. [Examples]

[0069] Example: Activity of two MMP inhibitors in normal human melanocytes treated with Gardenia jasminoides oil extract. Preparation of the extract: The oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides according to the present invention was prepared by the following steps: a) The process of drying the collected fresh flowers in sunlight or under vacuum at 40°C to preserve their quality, and then finely milling them, b) The process of placing the milled flowers into a cage in a supercritical CO2 extractor, c) A process of compressing carbon dioxide (CO2) to a pressure equivalent to 450 bar in a laboratory setting or 300 bar in an industrial setting, d) Next, the compressed CO2 is mixed with a cosmetic solvent, squalane, in a ratio of 99:1 (CO2:squalane, by volume), e) A step of sending the mixture into a heat exchanger and bringing it to a temperature of 60°C, f) Dispersing the extracted molecules into the mixture by passing it through a basket containing dried gardenia flowers at a rate of at least 200 g / min for at least 1 hour and 30 minutes, g) Next, the supercritical CO2 / squalane / gardenia extract mixture is depressurized to reduce the pressure to approximately 50 bar, and the CO2 becomes a gas again. h) A step of sending an ethanol stream to this point to push out the squalane / gardenia extract mixture and sending the mixture into the recovery unit of the extraction system, i) A step of extracting the mixture by utilizing the pressure difference between the system and the external environment, thereby obtaining an ethanol / squalane / gardenia extract mixture (because CO2 has evaporated), j) A step of evaporating the remaining ethanol under vacuum, k) The process of adding the necessary amount of squalane so that the final mass of the extract is 10 times greater than the mass of the plant used (for example, adding 1000g of squalane to 100g of dried flowers used), l) A step of filtering the extract on a 1 μm membrane to remove any possible precipitates.

[0070] protocol Normal human epidermal melanocytes from three different donors were cultured in M254 medium supplemented with 1% HMGS for 72 hours at 37°C and 5% CO2 on 6-well plates. At a culture density of 70%, cells were incubated for 24 hours with or without a non-cytotoxic concentration (0.25%) of prepared Gardenia jasminoides oil extract (untreated condition). Each condition was repeated. All RNA was extracted using the RNeasy 96 Plate Extraction kit (Qiagen) as recommended by the supplier. The quantity and quality of RNA were assessed using a spectrophotometer (Multiskan GO, Thermo Fisher). Complementary DNA was then synthesized from RNA micrograms using the supplier's procedure (iScript SUPER mix, Biorad) and used to determine the expression level of the target gene by quantitative PCR. The analysis was performed using Biorad Maestro CFS software by comparing the normalized Ct with the expression of a reference gene.

[0071] result: Figure 1 shows the results obtained after treating melanocytes with the Gardenia jasminoides oil extract (GO) according to the present invention. Compared to untreated melanocytes, a significant increase in the expression of TIMP1 and TIMP2 genes (TMP: Tissue Inhibitor of Metalloproteinase) was observed in melanocytes treated with 0.25% GO. Thus, the treated melanocytes expressed 2.15 times more TIMP1 and 2.45 times more TIMP2 on average (n=3) than untreated melanocytes.

[0072] [Table 1]

[0073] There are four members of the TIMP family (TIMP1-4) that act as specific inhibitors of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activity. MMPs are known to be involved in the breakdown of the extracellular matrix of the dermis and skin aging. In detail, it has been observed that MMP production increases following exposure to UV rays, which contributes to photoaging of the skin. It has now been shown that melanocytes have extremely high proteolytic activity, particularly when secreting MMPs. Therefore, the oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers according to the present invention can inhibit MMP activity by stimulating TIMP expression in melanocytes, and thus can be involved in preventing and / or treating aging and / or photoaging, for example, by having an anti-aging effect that smooths the skin.

[0074] Examples: Cosmetic composition The following compositions can be conventionally prepared by those skilled in the art. The amounts shown below are expressed as mass percentages. Components that are all capital letters are identified by their INCI names.

[0075] A - Oil / Water Emulsion

[0076] [Table 2]

[0077] B-Oil / Water Emulsion Cream

[0078] [Table 3]

[0079] These compositions can be applied to the skin daily, morning and / or evening.

Claims

1. A method for preparing an oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers, comprising extracting supercritical CO2 from Gardenia jasminoides flower powder at a temperature of at least 40 to 80°C and a pressure of 25 to 50 MPa. 2 This includes the extraction process, A method comprising extraction using supercritical CO2 in the presence of an oil solvent selected from squalane, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic and capric triglycerides, and vegetable oils.

2. The oil solvent is CO2 between 200:1 and 50:

1. 2 The method according to claim 1, characterized in that it is added in a volume ratio to the oil solvent.

3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the flower powder of Gardenia jasminoides is obtained by drying and then milling fresh Gardenia jasminoides flowers.

4. supercritical CO 2 At the end of the extraction process, CO 2 The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the pressure can be reduced so that the substance changes into a gaseous state.

5. At least the following steps: i) The process of drying and milling fresh Gardenia jasminoides flowers, ii) Supercritical CO2 from Gardenia jasminoides flower powder at a temperature between 40 and 80°C and a pressure between 25 and 50 MPa. 2 The extraction process, iii) By reducing the pressure to 7.4 MPa or less, CO 2 The process of evaporating and iv) A step of adding oil solvent until the mass ratio of dried flowers to oil solvent is 1:5 to 1:20, v) A process to clarify the oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides flowers. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by including

6. The method according to claim 5, characterized in that the clarification in step v) is performed by filtration on a membrane having a porosity of less than 1 μm.

7. An oil extract of the flower of Gardenia jasminoides, characterized by being obtained by the method described in any one of claims 1 to 6.

8. A cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil extract from the flower of Gardenia jasminoides according to claim 7, in a physiologically acceptable medium.

9. Cosmetic use of the flower oil extract of Gardenia jasminoides according to claim 7 for preventing and / or treating changes in the skin caused by aging or photoaging.

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