Lip coat cosmetics
A lip coat cosmetic with non-volatile dimethicone and metal soap provides transfer resistance and glossiness, addressing the issues of film-like residue and matte finish in conventional products, ensuring ease of use and glossy application.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-03-18
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-31
AI Technical Summary
Conventional lip coat cosmetics provide transfer resistance but leave a film-like feeling and matte finish, failing to maintain glossiness and causing secondary adhesion to masks.
A lip coat cosmetic formulation comprising 30-99% non-volatile dimethicone and up to 5% metal soap, optionally with phenyl-modified silicone or water, forming emulsions that prevent secondary adhesion and maintain glossiness without a film-like texture.
The formulation achieves excellent transfer resistance, ease of use, and a glossy finish without film-like residue, ensuring the cosmetic does not drip or stick to applicators, and adheres well to lips.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to a lip coat cosmetic excellent in transfer resistance. More specifically, it relates to a lip coat cosmetic that exhibits excellent transfer resistance and has gloss and does not give a film feeling.
Background Art
[0002] In makeup cosmetics such as lipsticks, color transfer (secondary adhesion) where the applied cosmetics are transferred by contact with a cup or the like has been a problem. In response to the recent spread of the novel coronavirus infection (COVID-19), wearing a mask when going out or meeting people is becoming a new norm (new normal or new standard). Therefore, in order to prevent lipsticks and the like from secondarily adhering to the mask and losing color, improving transfer resistance (secondary adhesion resistance effect) has become a new issue.
[0003] As a means of improving transfer resistance, in addition to imparting transfer resistance to the makeup cosmetics themselves such as lipsticks, a lip coat cosmetic (also referred to as "lipstick overcoat") that imparts transfer resistance by applying it over the lipstick or the like is known. Conventional lip coat cosmetics were those that blended a film-forming agent and powder into a water-repellent and oil-repellent oil component and formed a film layer on the lipstick layer to prevent secondary adhesion (Patent Document 1). Such lip coat cosmetics can suppress secondary adhesion, but the film feeling after application cannot be avoided, and the finish may become matte and lose "gloss".
[0004] Patent Document 2 describes that an oil-based lip coat in which predetermined amounts of methylphenylpolysiloxane, silicic anhydride, and polymethylsilsesquioxane particles having a predetermined viscosity are blended respectively is excellent in transfer resistance, usability, and stability. However, in the oil-based lip coat of Patent Document 2, the powder for stably blending with the methylphenylpolysiloxane adopted to suppress bleeding is limited to polymethylsilsesquioxane.
Prior Art Documents
[0005] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2005-255626 [Patent Document 2] Patent No. 5416371 [Disclosure of the Invention] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]
[0006] The present invention aims to provide a new lip coat cosmetic formulation that, when applied over lipstick, provides excellent transfer resistance, leaves no film-like feeling after application, and gives the lips a glossy finish. [Means for solving the problem]
[0007] As a result of diligent research, the inventors discovered that by adding a predetermined amount of metal soap to non-volatile dimethicone, a lip coat cosmetic composition with excellent transfer resistance and glossiness, and without forming a film-like texture, can be obtained, thus completing the present invention.
[0008] In other words, the present invention is (a) 30-99% by mass of non-volatile dimethicone, and (b) A lip coat cosmetic is provided, characterized by containing 5% by mass or less of metal soap.
[0009] The lip coat cosmetic of the present invention may be an emulsified cosmetic further containing (c1) phenyl-modified silicone or (c2) water in addition to (a) non-volatile dimethicone and (b) metal soap described above. [Effects of the Invention]
[0010] The lip coat cosmetic of the present invention has excellent transfer resistance (no secondary adhesion) and is easy to use with the applicator tool. When applied over lipstick, the lip coat cosmetic of the present invention does not cause the underlying lipstick to bleed, does not leave a film-like feeling after application, does not turn white (does not become cloudy), and provides a glossy finish. Furthermore, because the lip coat cosmetic of the present invention has a moderate viscosity, it is easy to dispense from the container and does not drip. [Modes for carrying out the invention]
[0011] The lip coat cosmetic composition of the present invention (hereinafter also simply referred to as "cosmetic composition") contains (a) non-volatile dimethicone and (b) metal soap as essential components.
[0012] (a) Non-volatile dimethicone The non-volatile dimethicone (component a) used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a non-volatile linear or branched silicone oil (dimethylpolysiloxane) that is liquid at room temperature. In this specification, "non-volatile" means that it does not exhibit volatility at room temperature and pressure. While not particularly limited, for convenience, this refers to an evaporation rate of 0.01 mg / cm³ at room temperature and pressure. 2 Oils with a volatility of less than one minute can be defined as non-volatile oils.
[0013] In the present invention, (a) non-volatile dimethicone is, for example, a dimethylpolysiloxane with a degree of polymerization of 6 or higher, and optionally, some of the trimethylsilyl groups may be substituted with alkyl, alkoxyl, fluorine, etc. However, phenyl-modified silicones substituted with phenyl groups are not included in (a) non-volatile dimethicone.
[0014] (a) The non-volatile dimethicone used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably one whose viscosity, as measured by a B-type viscometer at 30°C, is in the range of 100 to 5,000 cs (centistokes).
[0015] In the cosmetic of the present invention, the blending amount of (a) non-volatile dimethicone is 30 to 99% by mass, preferably 35 to 90% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
[0016] (b) Metal soap The "metal soap" blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is generally understood as a higher fatty acid salt of non-alkali metals such as calcium, zinc, and magnesium.
[0017] In the cosmetic of the present invention, among metal soaps, it is preferable to use a carboxysilicone metal salt having a structure represented by the following general formula (1).
[0018] [Chemical formula] In formula (1), X is R a or a group represented by the following formula (2), [Chemical formula] R a and R b are each independently selected from a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and a phenyl group, and may be the same or different. Examples of the alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms include linear, branched, or cyclic alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, i-propyl, n-butyl, i-butyl, s-butyl, t-butyl, pentyl, neopentyl, hexyl, and cyclopentyl. m and n are integers of 1 or more, and although not particularly limited, 1, 2, or 3 are preferable. A is a linear or branched alkylene group represented by C q H2 q and q is an integer of 0 to 20, preferably an integer of 2 to 10. M is a metal atom other than an alkali metal, and examples include divalent alkaline earth metals and metal atoms with a valency of 2 or higher. Examples of divalent alkaline earth metals include Mg, Ca, and Ba, while examples of other metal atoms include Mn, Fe, Co, Al, Ni, Cu, V, Mo, Nb, Zn, and Ti. In the metal soap (carboxysilicone metal salt) used in the present invention, the metal atom M is particularly preferably Ca, Zn, Mg, or Al. p is an integer greater than or equal to 2, corresponding to the valence of the metal atom (M).
[0019] In the present invention, a particularly preferred carboxysilicone is 3-(10-carboxydecyl)-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane (hereinafter also referred to as "carboxydecyltrisiloxane"). In the above formula (1), carboxydecyltrisiloxane zinc is a group represented by formula (2), and R a and R b These compounds all consist of methyl groups, m=n=1, q=10, M is Zn, and p=2, and are particularly preferred in the present invention.
[0020] The amount of (b) metal soap in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is 5% by mass or less, preferably 4% by mass or less, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic composition. If the amount of metal soap exceeds 5% by mass, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition tends to increase and it will not adhere to the applicator. The lower limit of the amount of (b) metal soap is not particularly limited, but is usually 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more.
[0021] In the present invention, it is preferable that the viscosity of the cosmetic composition at 30°C is in the range of 1 to 14 Pa·s (using a B-type viscometer). If the viscosity of the cosmetic composition is less than 1 Pa·s, it tends to drip from the applicator, and if it exceeds 14 Pa·s, it tends not to adhere to the applicator.
[0022] In addition to (a) non-volatile dimethicone and (b) metal soap, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain (c1) phenyl-modified silicone or (c2) water. When (c1) phenyl-modified silicone or (c2) water is incorporated, it can be provided as an oil-in-oil, oil-in-water, or water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic composition.
[0023] (c1) Phenyl-modified silicone The phenyl-modified silicone in this invention is a silicone oil that is liquid at room temperature and non-volatile, having a structure in which some of the methyl groups of dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone) are replaced with phenyl groups.
[0024] (c1) Specific examples of phenyl-modified silicones include, but are not limited to, phenyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, and trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane.
[0025] (c1) Cosmetics containing phenyl-modified silicone are oil-in-oil type oily cosmetics in which (a) non-volatile dimethicone and (c1) phenyl-modified silicone are the outer phase (continuous phase) and the other is the inner phase (dispersed phase).
[0026] The amount of (c1) phenyl-modified silicone in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is 60% by mass or less, preferably 58% by mass or less, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic composition. If the amount of (c1) phenyl-modified silicone exceeds 60% by mass, the stability of the emulsion tends to decrease. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of emulsification stability, it is preferable that the blending ratio (mass ratio) of (a) non-volatile dimethicone and (c1) phenyl-modified silicone be within the range of [(a) / (c1)] = 0.5 to 5.0.
[0027] (c2) water When (c2) water is added to the cosmetic composition of the present invention, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil type cosmetic composition is obtained in which (a) non-volatile dimethicone and (c2) water are the outer phase (continuous phase) and the other is the inner phase (dispersed phase).
[0028] The amount of (c2) water in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is 60% by mass or less, preferably 58% by mass or less, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic composition. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of emulsification stability, it is preferable that the ratio (mass ratio) of (a) non-volatile dimethicone to (c2) water be within the range of [(a) / (c2)] = 0.5 to 5.0.
[0029] (c2) The cosmetic composition of the present invention in a form containing water is further improved in stability by adding (d) an aqueous thickener. (d) Examples of aqueous phase thickeners include organically modified clay minerals such as bentonite, agar, xanthan gum, succinoglycan, carboxyvinyl polymer (carbomer), and natural or synthetic water-soluble polymers such as (dimethylacrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate) crosspolymer.
[0030] (d) The amount of aqueous thickener added is not particularly limited as long as the viscosity of the cosmetic composition is within the above range (1 to 14 Pa·s at 30°C). Typically, it is 0.05 to 6% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.5 to 3% by mass, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
[0031] (e) Anhydrous silicic acid The cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably further contains (e) anhydrous silicic acid. (e) The stability is further improved by incorporating anhydrous silicic acid. (e) As the anhydrous silicic acid, ultrafine particle anhydrous silicic acid with an average primary particle size of 1 to 50 nm is preferred, for example, Aerosil 200, 300, R972, R974, RY200, etc. (manufactured by Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.). The anhydrous silicic acid used in the present invention may be hydrophilic or hydrophobic, such as by silylation.
[0032] The amount of (e) anhydrous silicic acid in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is 0.5 to 5% by mass, preferably 1 to 4% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
[0033] In addition to the above, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain other components commonly used in lip coat cosmetics, to the extent that they do not impair the effects of the present invention. Examples of other components include colorants, oils (other than silicone oils), powders, dyes, humectants, fragrances, surfactants, antioxidants, preservatives, and cosmetic ingredients. However, excessive inclusion of oils compatible with oils commonly used in lipsticks may cause color bleeding. Therefore, the cosmetic composition of the present invention also includes embodiments that do not contain hydrocarbon oils.
[0034] The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be provided as a liquid lip coat (lipstick overcoat), lip balm, etc. In particular, it is suitable as a lip coat cosmetic composition that has good usability, excellent transfer resistance and gloss. [Examples]
[0035] The present invention will be described in further detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Unless otherwise specified, the amounts are given in mass percent.
[0036] Lip coat cosmetics were prepared according to conventional methods using the formulations listed in Tables 2 to 5 below. For each example of cosmetic product, "transfer resistance (secondary adhesion reduction effect)," "ease of use," and "finish" were evaluated based on the following methods and criteria. "Ease of use" refers to how easily the cosmetic product can be dispensed from the container using an applicator (no defects such as dripping due to low viscosity or sticking to the applicator due to high viscosity), and "finish" refers to the fact that the lip coat cosmetic does not leave a white residue and has a glossy finish after application. In addition, the viscosity at 30°C was measured for some cosmetic products using a B-type viscometer (rotor M4, rotation speed 12 rpm). "-" in the table indicates that measurement was not performed.
[0037] <Evaluation Method> Lipsticks with the formulations listed in Table 1 below were applied to the lips of 10 expert panel members. [Table 1]
[0038] Next, the lip coat cosmetic formulations described in Tables 2 to 5 below were applied over the lipstick. The application method involved applying the cosmetic formulation for each example and comparative example to the lips, then rubbing the upper and lower lips together and applying pressure for about 5 seconds. Transfer resistance was evaluated based on the absence of color transfer to the cup. Ease of use was evaluated based on how easy it was to pick up the product with the applicator and how easy it was to apply using the applicator. The finished product was evaluated through sensory testing and visual inspection by various expert panels.
[0039] <Evaluation Criteria> For each of the above evaluation items, each expert panel member performed a 5-point sensory evaluation (score) based on the evaluation criteria below, and the average score was used to make a judgment according to the evaluation criteria below.
[0040] (Score) 5 points: Excellent 4 points: Excellent 3 points: Average 2 points: Inferior 1 point: Very poor
[0041] (Evaluation Criteria) A: Evaluation score (average) of 4.0 or higher B: Evaluation score (average) 3.0 or higher, less than 4.0 points C: Evaluation score (average) less than 3.0 points
[0042] [Table 2]
[0043] Non-volatile dimethicone is incompatible with the oils commonly used in lipsticks, and therefore covers the lipstick applied to the base without causing it to bleed, thus providing excellent transfer resistance. However, Comparative Example 1-1, which did not contain metal soap, had too low a viscosity and dripped from the applicator, making it impossible to apply. Comparative Example 1-2, which contained more than 5% by mass of metal soap, had too high a viscosity and did not adhere to the applicator, making it impossible to pick up the product from the container with the applicator.
[0044] [Table 3]
[0045] Examples 2-1 to 2-4, which were oil-in-oil emulsions of (a) non-volatile dimethicone and (c1) phenyl-modified silicone, were excellent in terms of transfer resistance, ease of use, and finish. However, Comparative Example 2-1, in which the amount of phenyl-modified silicone exceeded 60% by mass, was unable to prepare a stable emulsion.
[0046] [Table 4]
[0047] [Table 5]
[0048] Examples 3-1 to 3-7, which used a water-in-oil emulsion with (a) non-volatile dimethicone as the outer phase (continuous phase) and (c2) water as the inner phase (dispersed phase), showed excellent transfer resistance and ease of use. However, when the viscosity of the cosmetic exceeded 14 Pa·s, although the transfer resistance and ease of use were excellent, it sometimes turned white after application and the finish deteriorated (data not shown). Example 3-8, which used an oil-in-water emulsion with (a) non-volatile dimethicone as the internal phase (dispersed phase) and (c2) water as the external phase (continuous phase), had slightly inferior ease of use and finish compared to the water-in-oil type, but still possessed sufficiently satisfactory characteristics. On the other hand, in both the water-in-oil and oil-in-water types, Comparative Examples 3-1 and 3-2, which did not contain metal soaps, were unable to prepare stable emulsions.
[0049] The lip coat cosmetic composition of the present invention was prepared using the formulations shown in Tables 6 and 7 below. [Table 6]
[0050] [Table 7]
Claims
1. (a) Non-volatile dimethicone having a viscosity of 100 to 5,000 cs in an amount of 30 to 99% by mass, And, (b) Metal soap consisting of 5% by mass or less of a carboxysilicone metal salt, It contains, The carboxysilicone metal salt is The following general formula (1): 【Chemistry 1】 (In formula (1), X is Ra or a group represented by the following formula (2), 【Chemistry 2】 Ra and Rb are each independently an alkyl group or phenyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. m and n are 1, A is a linear or branched alkylene group represented as C q H 2q, q is an integer between 0 and 20. M is one of Ca, Zn, Mg, or Al. P is represented as an integer greater than or equal to 2, corresponding to the valence of the metal atom (M). A lip coat cosmetic characterized in that the viscosity of the entire cosmetic composition at 30°C is in the range of 1 to 14 Pa·s.
2. (c1) The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further containing 60% by mass or less of phenyl-modified silicone.
3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the ratio (mass ratio) of (a) non-volatile dimethicone to (c1) phenyl-modified silicone is [(a) / (c1)] = 0.5 to 5.
0.
4. (c2) The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further containing 60% by mass or less of water.
5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the ratio (mass ratio) of (a) non-volatile dimethicone to (c2) water is [(a) / (c2)] = 0.5 to 5.
0.
6. (d) The cosmetic composition according to claim 4 or 5, further comprising an aqueous thickening agent.
7. (e) The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising anhydrous silicic acid.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
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