BOTANICAL AND BACTERIAL EXTRACTS THAT SHOW RETINOL-LIKE ACTIVITY.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- MX · MX
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- KENVUE BRANDS LLC
- Filing Date
- 2021-01-26
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-19
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic products that use synthetic retinoids for treating skin conditions associated with aging and acne are limited by irritation and a demand exists for natural compounds with retinol-like activity.
The use of botanical extracts from Acronychia, Licaria, Calendula, and Trigonella, and bacterial extracts from Actinomyces, which exhibit retinol-like bioactivity, applied topically to improve skin barrier function, moisturization, and treat signs of aging and acne.
These extracts effectively upregulate retinol-responsive genes, improve skin barrier function, reduce wrinkles, and treat acne without irritation, mimicking the benefits of retinoids.
Abstract
Description
BOTANICAL AND BACTERIAL EXTRACTS THAT SHOW RETINOL-LIKE ACTIVITY FIELD OF INVENTION The invention relates to compositions having retinol-like activity and methods of using the compositions to treat human tissue including skin, hair, nails, oral mucosa, nasal mucosa, vaginal mucosa and the like. DESCRIPTION OF THE RELATED TECHNIQUE Human skin is subject to certain aging processes, some of which are attributable to intrinsic factors (e.g., chronological aging) and some of which are attributable to exogenous factors (e.g., photoaging). In addition, temporary or even permanent skin changes can occur, such as acne, oily or dry skin, keratosis, rosacea, light-sensitive, inflammatory, erythematous, and allergic or autoimmune reactive reactions, such as dermatosis and photodermatosis. The consequences of the aging processes mentioned above can include thinning of the skin, weaker interlocking of the epidermis and dermis, and a reduction in the number of cells and blood vessels. This often results in the formation of fine lines and wrinkles, and pigmentary defects may occur. Retinoids have been used to treat skin conditions caused by intrinsic aging, exogenous factors, or skin diseases. However, despite the beneficial effects of retinoid treatment, their benefits are limited due to skin irritation. These side effects can restrict the use of retinoids. All retinoids used in cosmetic products are synthetic, and there is a high demand from cosmetic product users for natural compounds with similar activity and benefits to retinol for skin treatment. To date, the search for alternative or natural compounds to replace retinoids has had limited success in treating skin conditions associated with aging, such as atrophoderma, photoaging, and in reducing the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, stretch marks, or cellulite. U.S. Patent No. 9,220,928, assigned to Ecobiotics LTD, describes compounds derived from botanical products of the genus Acronychia, including 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid, for use as antioxidants, antibacterials, anthelmintics, anti-inflammatories, cancer chemopreventives, food additives, and / or fragrances. However, the patent does not identify any anti-aging properties associated with these compositions. U.S. Patent Publication No. 2013 / 0259815 assigned to Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc., describes methods for lightening skin by applying to the skin certain aromatic compounds or botanical extracts, including plants of the genus Acronychia, which contain such compounds. The applicants have discovered that certain extracts unexpectedly exhibit retinol-like bioactivity and / or other consumer-desirable properties for use on the skin and other human tissues. These extracts include botanical extracts from plants of the genera Acronychia, Lycaria, Calendula, and Trigonae, as well as bacterial extracts from the genus Actinomyces. Such extracts can be used on the skin to provide significant anti-aging, skin barrier enhancement and hydration, anti-acne, and other benefits typically associated with retinol. These extracts can also be used, for example, on the oral mucosa, nasal mucosa, and vaginal mucosa. The invention relates to extracts exhibiting retinol-like bioactivities, e.g., in the skin, including the upregulation of retinol-sensitive genes such as RARg, CRABP2, HbEGF, HAS3, and UGCG in human skin explant cultures. Furthermore, the invention relates to methods for treating signs of aging, improving skin barrier function, and providing anti-acne benefits with such botanical or bacterial extracts. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The invention relates to a method for treating signs of skin aging, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of treatment for signs of aging a composition comprising an extract selected from the group consisting of extracts of Acronychia acidula, extracts of Licaria vernicosa, extracts of Calendula officinalis, extracts of Trigonea foenum-graecum, extracts of Actimomyces bacteria, and combinations thereof. The invention also relates to a method for improving skin barrier properties, comprising topically applying to the skin in need of improved skin barrier function and moisturization a composition comprising an extract selected from the group consisting of extracts of Acronychia acidula, extracts of Licaria vernicosa, extracts of Calendula officinalis, extracts of Trigonea foenum-graecum, extracts of Actimomyces bacteria, and combinations thereof. The invention further relates to a method for treating acne, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of acne treatment a composition comprising an extract selected from the group consisting of extracts of Acronychia acidula, extracts of Licaria vernicosa, extracts of Calendula officinalis, extracts of Trigonella foenum-graecum, extracts of Actimomyces bacteria, and combinations thereof. The invention relates to a method for treating signs of skin aging, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of treatment for signs of skin aging a composition comprising an extract of Acronychia acidula. The invention also relates to a method for improving skin barrier properties, comprising topically applying to the skin in need of improved skin barrier function and moisturization a composition comprising an extract of Acronychia acidula. The invention further relates to a method for treating acne, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of acne treatment a composition comprising an extract of Acronychia acidula. The invention also relates to a method for treating signs of skin aging, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of treatment for signs of skin aging a composition comprising an extract of Licaria vernicosa. The invention also relates to a method for improving skin barrier properties, comprising topically applying to the skin in need of improved skin barrier function and moisturization a composition comprising an extract of Licaria vernicosa. The invention further relates to a method for treating acne, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of acne treatment a composition comprising an extract of Licaria vernicosa. The invention also relates to a method for treating signs of skin aging, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of treatment for signs of skin aging a composition comprising an extract of Calendula officinalis. The invention also relates to a method for improving skin barrier properties, comprising topically applying to the skin in need of improved skin barrier function and moisturization a composition comprising an extract of Calendula officinalis. The invention further relates to a method for treating acne, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of acne treatment a composition comprising an extract of Calendula officinalis. The invention also relates to a method for treating signs of skin aging, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of treatment for signs of skin aging a composition comprising an extract of Trigonella foenum-graecum. The invention also relates to a method for improving skin barrier properties, comprising topically applying to the skin in need of improved skin barrier function and moisturization a composition comprising an extract of Trigonella foenum-graecum. The invention further relates to a method for treating acne, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of acne treatment a composition comprising an extract of Trigonella foenum-graecum. The invention also relates to a method for treating signs of skin aging, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of treatment for signs of skin aging a composition comprising an extract of Actimomyces bacteria. The invention also relates to a method for improving skin barrier properties, comprising topically applying to the skin in need of improved skin barrier function and moisturization a composition comprising an extract of Actimomyces bacteria. The invention further relates to a method for treating acne, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of acne treatment a composition comprising an extract of Actimomyces bacteria. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES Figure 1 shows photographs of skin explants including untreated, treated with the vehicle, 1% Acronychia acidula extract (Έ1), and 0.1% retinol as described in Example 4. Figure 2 shows photographs of skin explants including untreated, treated with the vehicle, 1% Acronychia acidula (El) extract, and 0.1% retinol as shown in Example 5. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION It is believed that a person skilled in the art can, based on the description herein, make full use of the present invention. The following specific embodiments may be considered illustrative only and do not restrict the remainder of the description in any way. Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by a person skilled in the art to which the invention pertains. Furthermore, all publications, patent applications, patents, and other references mentioned herein are incorporated herein by reference. As used herein, all percentages are weight / volume of the total composition unless otherwise specified. Terms As used herein, an essentially ingredient-free composition means that the composition contains approximately 2% or less of that ingredient by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, an essentially ingredient-free composition contains approximately 1% or less, preferably approximately 0.5% or less, more preferably approximately 0.1% or less, more preferably approximately 0.05% or less, more preferably approximately 0.01% or less of the ingredient by weight based on the total weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, an essentially ingredient-free composition is free of the ingredient, i.e., the composition does not contain that ingredient. As used herein, cosmetically acceptable means that the ingredients described by the term are suitable for use in contact with tissues (e.g., skin or hair) without causing toxicity, incompatibility, instability, irritation, allergic reaction, and the like. As a person skilled in the art will recognize, cosmetically acceptable salts are either acidic / anionic or basic / cationic salts. Cosmetically acceptable salts of inorganic bases include, for example, sodium or potassium salts, and the like. Cosmetically acceptable salts of organic bases include, for example, salts formed with primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, and the like. As used in the present description, cosmetic refers to a beautifying substance or preparation that preserves, restores, imparts, simulates, or enhances the appearance of bodily beauty or appears to increase beauty or youth, specifically in relation to the appearance of tissue or skin. As used herein, the term safe and effective amount means an amount sufficient to induce the desired effect, but low enough to avoid serious side effects. The safe and effective amount of a compound, extract, or composition will vary, e.g., with the end user's age, health status, and environmental exposure, the duration and nature of the treatment, the specific compound, extract, ingredient, or composition used, the particular cosmetically acceptable carrier used, and similar factors. As used herein, treatment or treat means the improvement, prophylaxis, or reversal of a condition, disease, or disorder, or at least one discernible symptom thereof. In one modality, treatment or treat refers to an improvement, prophylaxis, or reversal of at least one physical parameter related to the condition, disease, or disorder being treated, which is not necessarily discernible in or by the subject being treated. In another modality, treatment or treat refers to inhibiting or slowing the progression of a condition, disease, or disorder, either physically (e.g., stabilization of a discernible symptom), physiologically (e.g., stabilization of a physical parameter), or both. In yet another modality, treatment or treat refers to delaying the onset of a condition, disease, or disorder. In certain embodiments, a composition of the invention is administered as a preventive measure. As used herein, prevention or prevent refers to a reduction in the risk of acquiring a particular condition, disease, or disorder. The compositions of the present invention are suitable for treating or preventing signs of skin aging. As used herein, signs of skin aging include the presence of lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, uneven skin texture, and age spots. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the sign of aging is the presence of lines and wrinkles and / or loss of elasticity. As used in this description, wrinkle includes fine lines, deep creases, or deep wrinkles. Examples of wrinkles include, but are not limited to, fine lines around the eyes (e.g., crow's feet), wrinkles on the forehead and cheeks, frown lines, and laugh lines around the mouth. The compositions of the invention are suitable for improving skin texture or improving skin firmness. As used in the present description, improving skin texture means smoothing the skin's surface to eliminate swelling or fissures on the skin's surface. As used in the present description, improving skin firmness means improving the firmness or elasticity of the skin, preventing the loss of firmness or elasticity of the skin, or preventing or treating sagging, loose, and droopy skin. As used in this description, loss of elasticity includes the loss of elasticity or structural integrity of the skin or tissue, including, but not limited to, sagging, loose, and flabby tissue. Lack of elasticity or tissue structural integrity can result from a number of factors, including, but not limited to, disease, aging, hormonal changes, mechanical trauma, environmental damage, or the application of products, such as cosmetics or pharmaceuticals, to the tissue. As used in the present description, irregular skin refers to a skin condition, associated with mottled or diffuse pigmentation, which may be classified as hyperpigmentation, such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. As used in the present description, skin spots refers to a skin condition associated with redness or erythema. As used in the present description, age spots means a skin condition associated with discrete pigmentation, e.g., small areas of darker pigmentation that may develop on the face and also on the hands. Signs of skin aging also include thinning skin and abnormal or decreased synthesis of collagen, glycosaminoglycans, proteoglycans, elastin, or glycoproteins including fibronectin. In one approach, the sign of aging is determined by the abnormal or decreased synthesis of collagen, glycosaminoglycans, proteoglycans, elastin, or glycoproteins including fibronectin. In another approach, the sign of skin aging is the decreased synthesis of collagen or elastin. The compositions are also suitable for treating or preventing acne. As used herein, acne refers to disorders resulting from the actions of hormones and other substances on the sebaceous glands and hair follicles, typically leading to clogged pores and the formation of inflammatory or non-inflammatory lesions on the skin. Specifically, it refers to blemishes, lesions, or pimples, including pre-emergent pimples, blackheads, and / or spots. As used herein, a pre-emergent pimple is an inflamed follicle on the surface of the skin that is not visible to the naked eye (e.g., as a lesion). The compositions of the invention are also suitable for treating or preventing rosacea. As used herein, rosacea means skin with persistent erythema with or without papules, pustules, or nodules. The compositions of the invention are also suitable for treating skin that requires improved skin barrier function and hydration. As used herein, skin that requires improved skin barrier function and hydration refers to skin that has, but is not limited to, lack of moisture, lack of sebum, cracking, dryness, itching, flaking, xeroderma, dehydration, lack of elasticity, lack of radiance, lack of shine, or lack of lipids. The compositions of the invention are also suitable for improving endogenous hyaluronic acid (HA) levels in the skin, thereby enhancing hydration and reducing the appearance of at least one sign of skin aging. Topical application of the composition can increase hyaluronic acid levels to levels found in younger skin, thus providing structural support to the skin and reducing the appearance of signs of aging. The compositions of the invention are also suitable for reducing epidermal hyperkeratinization. Consequently, the composition can be used for the treatment or prevention of conditions characterized by hyperkeratinization, such as acne or warts. The compositions are also suitable for treating or preventing skin conditions such as cutis laxa (elastin-related disease), sclerosis / scleroderma (collagen-related disease), keratosis pilaris, cellulite, stretch marks, psoriasis, warts, Kaposi's sarcoma, and cutaneous T-cell lymphoma. The compositions of the invention are also suitable for application to the oral mucosa. The compositions can be applied to oral mucosa that requires increased mucin induction, increased hyaluronic acid induction, an improved barrier, or better occlusive bonding. The compositions are also suitable for the treatment or prevention of asthma, allergies, and pruritus. For example, the compositions can be applied topically to the skin or intranasally to the nasal mucosa for these purposes. Botanical extracts We have unexpectedly identified botanical extracts with bioactivity similar to retinol. These extracts are derived from botanical ingredients including, for example, plants from the genera Acronychia, Lycaria, Calendula, and Trigonella. Plants of the genus Acronychia include, for example, Acronychia aberrans, Acronychia acidula, Acronychia acronychioides, Acronychia acuminate, Acronychia baeuerienii, Acronychia chooreechiiium, Acronychia crassipetaia, Acronychia eungeiiensis, Acronychia imperforate, Acronychia iaevis, Acronychia laurífolia, Acronychia Httoralis, Acronychia oblongifolia, Acronychia octandra, Acronychia parvifiora, Acronychia paucifiora, Acronychia peduncuiata, Acronychia pubescens, Acronychia species Downs), Acronychia suberosa, Acronychia vestita and Acronychia wiicoxiana. In one form, the extract is obtained from Acronychia acidula. Common names for Acronychia acidula include lemon aspen, hard aspen, and lemonwood. Latin synonyms for Acronychia acidula are Jamboifera acidula and Acronychia superba. Plants of the genus Licaria include, for example, Licaria vernicosa, Licaria brittoniana, Licaria caneiia, Licaria cubensis, Licaria velutina, and Licaria triandra. There are approximately 40 reported species of the genus Licaria, and they are endemic to Central and South America. In one form, the extract is obtained from Licaria vernicosa. Plants in the genus Calendula include 15-20 species, for example, Calendula officinalis. Known synonyms of Calendula officinalis are Calendula aurantiaca, Calendula eriocarpa, Calendula hydruntina, Calendula prolifera, Calendula x santamariae, and Caltha officinalis. In one form, the extract is obtained from Calendula officinalis. Common names for Calendula officinalis include pot marigold, ruddles, common marigold, and Scottish marigold. Plants in the genus Trigonella include 36 known species, for example, Trigonella foenum-graecum, Trigonella ba / ansae, Trigonella corniculata, Trigonella maritima, Trigonella spicata, Trigonella caerulea, Trigonella occulta, Trigonella po / ycerata, Trigonella Ca / Hceras, and Trigonella cretica. Trigonella foenum-graecum, or fenugreek, is the best-known member of the genus Trigonella. In one form, the extract is obtained from Trigonella foenum-graecum. Common names for Trigonella foenum-graecum include fenugreek, Greek hay, Greek clover, bird's foot, fenugreco, hu lu ba, trigonella, and bockshornklee. Any of a variety of extracts of Acronychia, Lycaria, Calendula, or Trigonella can be used. One extract or a combination of extracts can be used. The extract can be obtained from any part of the plant, such as the fruit, seed, bark, leaf, flower, petals, roots, and wood. In some forms, the extract is obtained from the fruit, wood, petals, or leaves of the plant. In one form, the extract is from the fruit of Acronychia acidula. In another form, the extract is from Licaria vernicosa wood. In another form, the extract is from the root of Licaria vernicosa. In another form, the extract is made from Calendula officinalis petals. In another form, the extract is from the leaves of Trigonella foenum-graecum. In certain embodiments, the Acronychia extracts and / or [unclear - possibly "useful" or "useful" in the present invention] comprise compounds of the following formula: where: Ri is selected from the group consisting of C1-C20 alkyl, C2-C20 alkenyl, C2-C20 alkynyl, and C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl; R2 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, hydroxyl, Ci-Ce alkyl, C2-C6 alkenyl, C2-C6 alkynyl, C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl, —OCi-Ce alkyl, —OC2-C6 alkenyl, —OC2-C6 alkynyl, —OC3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl, thiol, —SCi-Ce alkyl, —SC2Cg alkenyl, —SC2-C6 alkynyl, —SC3-Cs cycloalkyl or aryl, —NR4C1-C6 alkyl, —NR4C2-C6 alkenyl, —NR4C2-C6 alkynyl and —NR4C3-C8 cycloalkyl or aryl; Ra is selected from —CO2H, —CO2R4 or an isosteric equivalent of a carboxy group, wherein R4 is Ci-Ce alkyl, C2-C6 alkenyl, C3-Cs cycloalkyl or aryl; and And it is — (CH2—CH2)—, —(CH=CH)— or —(C^C)—; or a cosmetically acceptable salt of these. In certain embodiments, the Acronychia extracts and / or [unclear] useful in the present invention comprise compounds of the Formula: R11 and r2 where: Ri is selected from the group consisting of C5-C16 alkyl, C5-C16 alkenyl and C5-C16 alkynyl, most preferably Cs-Cie alkenyl, which includes, for example, farnesyl; R2 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, hydroxyl, —alkyl OCi-Ce, —alkenyl OC2-C6, —alkynyl OC2-C6, —cycloalkyl OC3-C8, with greater preference hydrogen, hydroxyl, —alkyl OCi-Ce, even more preferentially hydrogen or —alkyl OC1-C3; R3 is selected from —CO2H, —CO2R4 where R4 is a Ci-Ce alkyl, or an isosteric equivalent of a carboxy group; and And it is —(CH2—CH2)— or — (CH=CH)—; or a cosmetically acceptable salt of these. In certain embodiments, at least one compound of the above formula is present in the Acronychia and / or Licaria extract at a concentration equal to or greater than 1% (or approximately 1%) to approximately 20%, or optionally from approximately 7% (or approximately 7%) to approximately 10% (or approximately 10%), by weight of the Acronychia and / or Licaria extract. In certain embodiments, the compounds of the above formula are in the form of an acid or alkyl ester selected from (or, selected from the group consisting of) 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid, 3-(4-farnesyloxy-3-hydroxyphenyl)propionic acid, 3-(4-farnesyloxy-3-methoxyphenyl)propionic acid, alkyl esters of these, in particular ethyl esters of these and combinations of two or more of these. In certain forms, the compound of the above formula is 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid and / or its ethyl ester. In certain embodiments, 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid and / or its ethyl ester are present in the Acronychia and / or Licaria extract at a concentration equal to or greater than 1% (or approximately 1%) to approximately 20%, or optionally from approximately 7% (or approximately 7%) to approximately 10% (or approximately 10%), by weight of the Acronychia and / or Licaria extract. 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid and / or its ethyl ester can be synthesized by conventional organic synthesis processes. Accordingly, in one embodiment, a composition comprising 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid and / or its ethyl ester is used. This composition may be used in any of the methods of the invention. In certain embodiments, the composition may comprise a percentage equal to or greater than 1% (or about 1%) to about 20%, or optionally from about 7% (or about 7%) to about 10% (or about 10%), by weight of 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid and / or its ethyl ester based on the total weight of the composition. Suitable extracts can be obtained by conventional methods including, but not limited to, direct extraction of material from biomass by means of grinding, maceration, ironing, compression, mixing, centrifugation and / or processes such as cold percolation, stirring / distillation, microwave-assisted extraction, supercritical / subcritical compressed CO2 gas extraction with or without polar modifiers, pressurized solvent extraction, accelerated solvent extraction, pressurized or normal hot water extraction, surfactant-assisted pressurized hot water extraction, oil extraction, membrane extraction, Soxhlet extraction, golden finger distillation / extraction and / or processes described, for example, in U.S. patents nos.7442391, 7473435 and 7537791 to Integrated Botanical Technologies, LLC, incorporated herein by reference, and the like, or by other methods such as solvent extraction, and the like. Any of a variety of solvents, including polar solvents, nonpolar solvents, or combinations of two or more of these, may be used in methods comprising solvent extraction. Suitable polar solvents include polar inorganic solvents such as water and the like; polar organic solvents such as alcohols and corresponding organic acids, for example, Ci-Cs alcohols including methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, and the like; organic acids, including acetic acid, formic acid, propanoic acid, and the like; polyols and glycols, including Ci-Cs polyols / glycols and the like; and combinations of two or more of these.Suitable nonpolar solvents include nonpolar organic solvents such as alkanes (including Ci-Cs alkanes), cycloalkanes (including Ci-Cs alkanes), alkyl ethers (including Ci-Cs alkyl ethers), petroleum ethers, ketones (including Ci-Cs ketones), methylene chloride, ethyl acetate, xylene, toluene, chloroform, vegetable oil, mineral oil, and the like. Alternatively, extraction can be achieved using the nonpolar solvents described above or by supercritical fluid extraction with or without a polar modifier such as Ci-Cs alcohols, water, Ci-Cs polyols / glycols, or Ci-Cs organic acids. In one embodiment, the extract comprises an extract of Acronychia acidula. In another embodiment, the extract of the invention comprises a combination of polar and non-polar extracts of Acronychia acidula fruit. In another embodiment, the extract of the invention comprises alcoholic or glycolic extracts of Acronychia acidula fruit. In one embodiment, the extract comprises an extract of Licaria vernicosa. In another embodiment, the extract of the invention comprises a combination of polar and non-polar extracts of Licaria vernicosa wood or Licaria vernicosa root. In another embodiment, the extract of the invention comprises alcoholic extracts of Licaria vernicosa wood or Licaria vernicosa root. In another embodiment, the extract is a polar extract prepared with a polar solvent comprising water, C1-C4 alcohols, C1-C4 polyols, or C1-C4 glycols, or combinations of two or more of these. In certain embodiments, the extract is extracted with one or more C1-C4 alcohols, C1-C4 polyols, and / or C1-C4 glycols. In certain embodiments, the extract is prepared with a solvent comprising methanol, ethanol, or a combination thereof, with or without the presence of water. In another form, the extract is a polar extract extracted from the fruit of Acronychia acidula with a combination of alcohol and water. In yet another form, the extract is a polar extract extracted from crushed wood (i.e., reduced to small particles) of Licaria vernicosa, or crushed root of Idearia vernicosa with methanol. In one embodiment, the extract comprises an extract of Calendula officinalis. In another embodiment, the extract of the invention comprises a combination of polar and non-polar extracts of Calendula officinalis petals. In another embodiment, the extract of the invention comprises a non-polar extract of Calendula officinalis petals. In one embodiment, the extract comprises an extract of Trigonella foenum-graecum. In another embodiment, the extract of the invention comprises a combination of polar and non-polar extracts of Trigonella foenum-graecum leaves. In another embodiment, the extract of the invention comprises a non-polar extract of Trigonella foenum-graecum leaves. In yet another embodiment, the extract is a nonpolar extract prepared with a nonpolar solvent comprising one or more Ci-Cs alkanes, Ci-Cs cycloalkanes, Ci-Cs alkyl ethers, Ci-Cs alkyl esters and / or chloroform, most preferably one or more Ci-Cs alkanes, Ci-Cs alkyl esters and / or chloroform. In yet another embodiment, the extract is a nonpolar extract prepared with hexanes, ethyl acetate, chloroform, or mixtures of two or more of these. In yet another embodiment, the extract is a nonpolar extract prepared with ethyl acetate. In one embodiment, botanical extracts can be obtained by extraction from cell cultures of various plants, including cell cultures of the genera Acronychia, Lycaria, Calendula, or Trigonella. The cell cultures extracted to obtain botanical extracts for use in the invention can be of any form, including cell suspension cultures and the like. Bacterial extracts Unexpectedly, we have identified bacterial extracts with retinol-like bioactivity. Bacteria of the genus Actinomyces include many fully characterized species, as well as some that are not well characterized, such as a species collected from the USA and a species labeled A5640. A sample of this bacterium is collected, cultured, and extracted. The extract is part of the natural products collection now under the control of the Baruch S. Blumerg Institute, Doylestown, PA (formerly known as the Institute of Hepatitis Virus Research Labs (IHVR)). In one modality, the extract is obtained from Actinomyces species capable of producing a chemical composition similar to that produced by the A5640 extract. In another modality, the bacteria are collected in the USA, and the strain is identical to the previously submitted A5640 species. Compositions In one embodiment, the method of the invention comprises applying to tissue requiring treatment a composition comprising a botanical or bacterial extract as described herein. Such tissue may be, for example, human skin, hair, nails, oral mucosa, nasal mucosa, or vaginal mucosa. Such tissue may require treatment for or prevention of a disease or condition treatable or preventable by retinoids, preferably retinol. Preferably, the methods of the invention comprise administering a composition comprising a safe and effective amount of an extract of the invention to the tissue requiring treatment. In the case of skin requiring anti-aging treatment, an effective anti-aging amount of said extract may be used. In one embodiment, the methods comprise applying from more than zero to approximately 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the extract composition, to the tissue requiring it. In another embodiment, the methods comprise applying from approximately 0.0001 to approximately 20%, or approximately 0.001 to approximately 10%, or approximately 0.01 to approximately 5%, or approximately 0.1 to approximately 5%, or approximately 0.2 to approximately 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of the extract to the tissue requiring it. In yet another embodiment, the methods comprise applying from more than zero to approximately 1%, or approximately 0.0001 to approximately 1%, or approximately 0.001 to approximately 1%, or approximately 0.01 to approximately 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of the extract to the tissue requiring it. Any suitable carrier may be used in the compositions of the invention depending on the route of administration, i.e., topical, oral, buccal, intranasal, periodontal, or vaginal. Preferably, in a topical composition, the carrier is a cosmetically acceptable carrier. As those skilled in the art will recognize, cosmetically acceptable carriers are carriers suitable for use in contact with the body, for example, in contact with the skin, hair, or nails, without causing toxicity, incompatibility, instability, irritation, allergic response, or the like. A safe and effective amount of carrier is used in the compositions. For example, the carrier may comprise from approximately 50% to approximately 99.999%, preferably from approximately 80% to approximately 99.9%, with a higher preference from approximately 99.9% to approximately 95%, and with a maximum preference from approximately 99.8% to approximately 98% of the composition. The carrier may be in a wide variety of forms. For example, in the present description, emulsion carriers are useful, including, but not limited to, oil-in-water, water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-water, and oil-in-water-in-silicone emulsions. These emulsions can cover a wide range of viscosities, e.g., from approximately 100 cP to approximately 200,000 cP. Examples of suitable cosmetically acceptable carriers include cosmetically acceptable solvents and materials for cosmetic solutions, suspensions, lotions, creams, serums, essences, gels, toners, sticks, sprays, ointments, liquid and bar soaps, shampoos, hair conditioners, pastes, foams, modeling foams, powders, shaving creams, cloths, patches, strips, electrical patches, microneedle patches, dressings, hydrogels, film-forming products, skin and face masks, makeup base, liquid drops, and the like. These types of products may contain various types of cosmetically acceptable carriers, including, but not limited to, solutions, suspensions, emulsions such as microemulsions and nanoemulsions, gels, solids, liposomes, other encapsulation technologies, and the like. The following are non-limiting examples of such vehicles. Other vehicles may be formulated by those skilled in the art. In one embodiment, the carrier contains water. In another embodiment, the carrier may also contain one or more aqueous or organic solvents. Examples of organic solvents include, but are not limited to: dimethyl isosorbide; isopropyl myristate; cationic, anionic, and nonionic surfactants; vegetable oils; mineral oils; waxes; gums; synthetic and natural gelling agents; alkandes; glycols; and polyols. Examples of glycols include, but are not limited to, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, caprylic glycol, glycerol, butanediol, and hexanetriol, and copolymers or mixtures thereof.Examples of alkanes include, but are not limited to, those having from approximately 2 carbon atoms to approximately 12 carbon atoms (e.g., from approximately 2 carbon atoms to approximately 4 carbon atoms), such as isopropanol and ethanol. Examples of polyols include, but are not limited to, those having from approximately 2 carbon atoms to approximately 15 carbon atoms (e.g., from approximately 2 carbon atoms to approximately 10 carbon atoms), such as propylene glycol. Organic solvents may be present in the carrier in an amount, based on the total weight of the carrier, from approximately 1 percent to approximately 99.99 percent (e.g., from approximately 20 percent to approximately 50 percent). The carrier may contain water (before use) in an amount, based on the total weight of the carrier, from approximately 5 percent to approximately 95 percent (e.g.,(from approximately 50 percent to approximately 90 percent). The solutions may contain any amount of solvent, including from approximately 40 to approximately 99.99%. In one form, the solutions contain from approximately 50 to approximately 99.9%, from approximately 60 to approximately 99%, from approximately 70 to approximately 99%, from approximately 80 to approximately 99%, or from approximately 90 to 99%. A lotion can be prepared from this solution. Lotions typically contain at least one emollient in addition to a solvent. Lotions may comprise from approximately 1% to approximately 20% (e.g., from approximately 5% to approximately 10%) of an emollient and from approximately 50% to approximately 90% (e.g., from approximately 60% to approximately 80%) of water. As used in this description, emollients refers to materials used for the prevention or relief of dryness, as well as for the protection of the skin or hair. Examples of emollients include, but are not limited to, those described in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, eds. Wenningery and McEwen, pp. 1656-61, 1626 and 1654-55 (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Assoc., Washington, DC, 7th edition, 1997) (hereafter referred to as the ICI Manual). Another type of product that can be formulated from a solution is a cream. A cream typically contains approximately 5% to approximately 50% (e.g., approximately 10% to approximately 20%) of an emollient and approximately 45% to approximately 85% (e.g., approximately 50% to approximately 75%) of water. Another type of product that can be formulated from a solution is an ointment. An ointment may contain a simple base of animal, vegetable, or synthetic oil or semisolid hydrocarbons. An ointment may contain from approximately 2% to approximately 10% of an emollient plus approximately 0.1% to approximately 2% of a thickening agent. The compositions useful in the invention can also be formulated as emulsions. If the carrier is an emulsion, approximately 1% to approximately 10% (e.g., approximately 2% to approximately 5%) of the carrier contains one or more emulsifiers. The emulsifiers can be nonionic, anionic, or cationic. Examples of emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, those described in the ICI Manual, pp. 1673-1686. Lotions and creams can be formulated as emulsions. Typically, such lotions contain from 0.5% to approximately 5% of one or more emulsifiers, while such creams will typically contain from approximately 1% to approximately 20% (e.g., from approximately 5% to approximately 10%) of one or more emollients; from approximately 20% to approximately 80% (e.g., from 30% to approximately 70%) of water; and from approximately 1% to approximately 10% (e.g., from approximately 2% to approximately 5%) of one or more emulsifiers. Skin care preparations in the form of a simple emulsion, such as oil-in-water and water-in-oil lotions and creams, are known in the art and are useful in the present invention. Multi-phase emulsion compositions, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil, are also useful in the present invention. Generally, such simple or multi-phase emulsions contain water, emollients, and emulsifiers as essential ingredients. The compositions of this invention may also be formulated as a gel (e.g., an aqueous, alcoholic, alcohol / water, or oil-based gel using one or more suitable gelling agents). Suitable gelling agents for aqueous and / or alcoholic gels include, but are not limited to, natural gums, acrylic acid and acrylate polymers and copolymers, and cellulose derivatives (e.g., hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose). Suitable gelling agents for oils (such as mineral oil) include, but are not limited to, butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymers. ML / a / ZUZ l / UU 1 UÓO hydrogenated and hydrogenated ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymer. Such gels typically contain between approximately 0.1% and 5% by weight of such gelling agents. The compositions of the invention can also be formulated in a solid formulation (e.g., a wax-based bar, bar soap composition, powder, or cloth). The composition of the invention can also be combined with a solid, semi-solid, or soluble substrate (e.g., a cloth, mask, pad, glove, or strip). The compositions of the invention may further comprise one or more additional cosmetically active agents. As used herein, a cosmetically active agent is a compound that has a cosmetic or therapeutic effect on human tissue such as skin, hair, nails, or mucous membranes. Examples of suitable additional cosmetically active agents include skin-lightening agents, darkening agents, anti-acne agents, shine-control agents, antimicrobial agents such as anti-yeast, antifungal, and antibacterial agents, anti-inflammatory agents, antiparasitic agents, external analgesics, sunscreens, photoprotectants, antioxidants, keratolytic agents, detergents / surfactants, humectants, nutrients, vitamins, energy boosters, antiperspirant agents, astringents, deodorants, depilatories, hair growth-enhancing agents, and hair growth-retardant agents.Firming agents, hydration enhancers, efficacy enhancers, callus removers, skin conditioning agents, anti-cellulite agents, fluorides, tooth whitening agents, anti-plaque agents and plaque-dissolving agents, odor control agents such as odor masking agents or pH-modifying agents, and the like. Examples of various additional cosmetically acceptable active ingredients include hydroxy acids, benzoyl peroxide, D-panthenol, UV filters such as, but not limited to, avobenzone (Parsol 1789), disodium bisdisulizole (Neo Heliopan AP), diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate (Uvinul A Plus), ecamsule (Mexoryl SX), methyl anthranilate, 4-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), cinoxate, ethylhexyl triazone (Uvinul T 150), homosalate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Parsol 5000), octyl methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate), octyl salicylate (Octisalate), padimate O (Escalol 507), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), polysilicone-15 (Parsol SLX), salicylate of Trolamine, Bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S), Benzophenones 1-12, Dioxybenzone, Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), Iscotrizinol (Uvasorb HEB), Octocrylene, Oxybenzone (Eusolex 4360), Sulisobenzone, Bisoctrizol (Tinosorb M), Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Carotenoids, Free Radical Scavengers, Spin Scavengers,Retinoids and retinoid precursors such as retinol, retinoic acid and retinyl palmitate, ceramides, polyunsaturated fatty acids, essential fatty acids, enzymes, enzyme inhibitors, minerals, hormones such as estrogens, steroids such as hydrocortisone, 2-dimethylaminoethanol, copper salts such as copper chloride, copper-containing peptides such as Cu:Gly-His-Lys, dipeptides, sugar amines, coenzyme Q10, amino acids such as proline, vitamins, lactobionic acid, acetyl-coenzyme A, niacin, riboflavin, thiamine, ribose, electron carriers such as NADH and FADH2, and other botanical extracts such as oat, aloe vera, feverfew, soy, Shiitake mushroom extracts and derivatives and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the compositions of the invention are skin care compositions comprising a botanical or bacterial extract as described herein and at least one skin-lightening active agent. Examples of suitable skin-lightening active agents include, but are not limited to, tyrosinase inhibitors, melanin-inhibiting agents, melanosome transfer-inhibiting agents including PAR-2 antagonists, exfoliants, sunscreens, retinoids, antioxidants, tranexamic acid, skin-bleaching agents, allantoin, opacifiers, talc and silicas, zinc salts, and the like, and other agents as described in Solano et al., Pigment Cell Res. 2006, 19 (550-571). Examples of suitable tyrosinase inhibitors include, but are not limited to, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, kojic acid, arbutin, resorcinols, hydroquinone, flavones, e.g., licorice flavonoids, licorice root extract, blackberry root extract, Dioscorea coposita root extract, saxifrage extract and the like, ellagic acid, salicylates and derivatives, glucosamine and derivatives, fullerene, hinokitiol, dioic acid, acetyl glucosamine, magnolignan, combinations of two or more of these, and the like. Examples of vitamin C derivatives include, but are not limited to, ascorbic acid and salts, ascorbic acid-2-glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and natural extracts enriched with vitamin C. Examples of vitamin E derivatives include, but are not limited to, alpha-tocopherol, beta-tocopherol, gamma-tocopherol, delta-tocopherol, alpha-tocotrienol, beta-tocotrienol, gamma-tocotrienol, delta-tocotrienol, and mixtures thereof, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl phosphate, and natural extracts enriched with vitamin E derivatives.Examples of resorcinol derivatives include, but are not limited to, resorcinol, 4-substituted resorcinols such as 4-acetylresorcinols, including 4-butyresorcinol (rucinol), 4-hexylresorcinol, phenylethyl resorcinol, 1-(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)-3-(2,4-dimethoxy-3-methylphenyl)propane, and similar compounds, as well as natural extracts enriched with resorcinols. Examples of salicylates include, but are not limited to, salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, 4-methoxysalicylic acid, and their salts. In certain embodiments, tyrosinase inhibitors include a resorcinol substituted at position 4, a vitamin C derivative, or a vitamin E derivative. In yet another embodiment, the tyrosinase inhibitor comprises phenylethyl resorcinol, 4-hexyl resorcinol, or ascorbyl-2-glucoside. Examples of suitable melanin-degrading agents include, but are not limited to, peroxides and enzymes such as peroxidases and ligninases. In certain formulations, melanin-inhibiting agents include either a peroxide or a ligninase. Examples of suitable melanosome transfer inhibitors include PAR-2 antagonists, such as soy trypsin inhibitor or Bowman-Birk inhibitor, vitamin B3 and derivatives, such as niacinamide, soy essential oil, whole soybeans, and soy extract. In certain formulations, melanosome transfer inhibitors include soy extract or niacinamide. Examples of exfoliants include, but are not limited to, alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, or any combination thereof; beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid; polyhydroxy acids such as lactobionic acid and gluconic acid; and mechanical exfoliation such as microdermabrasion. In certain modalities, the exfoliant includes glycolic acid or salicylic acid. Examples of sunscreens include, but are not limited to, avobenzone (Parsol 1789), disodium bisdisulizole (Neo Heliopan AP), diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (Uvinul A Plus), ecamsul (Mexoryl SX), methyl anthranilate, 4-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), cinoxate, ethylhexyl triazone (Uvinul T 150), homosalate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Parsol 5000), octyl methoxycinnamate (Octinoxate), octyl salicylate (Octisalate), padimate O (Escalol 507), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), polysilicone-15 (Parsol SLX), trolamine salicylate, bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S), benzophenones 1-12, and dioxybenzone. drometrizol trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL), isotrizinol (Uvasorb HEB), octocrylene, oxybenzone (Eusolex 4360), sulisobenzone, bisoctrizol (Tinosorb M), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and the like. Examples of retinoids include, but are not limited to, retinol, retinaldehyde, retinoic acid, retinyl palmitate, isotretinoin, tazarotene, bexarotene, and adapalene. In certain formulations, the retinoid is retinol. Examples of antioxidants include, but are not limited to, water-soluble antioxidants such as sulfhydryl compounds and their derivatives (e.g., sodium metabisulfite and N-acetylcysteine, glutathione), lipoic acid and dihydrolipoic acid, stilbenoids such as resveratrol and derivatives, lactoferrin, and ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g., ascorbyl-2-glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, and ascorbyl polypeptide). Oil-soluble antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of this invention include, but are not limited to, butylated hydroxytoluene, retinoids (e.g., retinol and retinyl palmitate), tocopherols (e.g., tocopheryl acetate), tocotrienols, and ubiquinone. The natural extracts containing antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of this invention include, but are not limited to, extracts containing flavonoids and isoflavonoids and their derivatives (e.g.(genistein and daidzein), extracts containing resveratrol, and the like. Examples of such natural extracts include grape seed, green tea, pine bark, feverfew, feverfew without parthenolide, oat extracts, grapefruit extract, wheat germ extract, hesperidin, grape extract, purslane extract, licochalcone, chalcone, 2,2'-dihydroxychalcone, evening primrose extract, propolis, and the like. Examples of vitamins include, but are not limited to, vitamin A, B vitamins (such as vitamin B3, vitamin B5 and vitamin B12), vitamin C, vitamin K, and vitamin E, and derivatives thereof. The additional cosmetically active agent may be present in a composition in any suitable amount, for example, from approximately 0.0001% to approximately 20% by weight of the composition, e.g., from approximately 0.001% to approximately 10%, such as from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5%. In some embodiments, it is present in an amount of 0.1% to 5%, and in other embodiments from 1% to 2%. The compositions of the invention may also contain a variety of other materials. These include, for example, chelating agents, wetting agents, proteins, polypeptides, opacifiers, pigments, conditioners, preservatives, fragrances, and the like. The compositions may include surfactants, for example, those selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, cationic surfactants, or a combination of two or more of these. The composition and products containing such compositions of this invention can be prepared using a methodology known to a person skilled in the art. In one embodiment, the invention comprises applying a compound or composition of the invention by means of a substrate comprising said material. Any suitable substrate may be used in the invention. Examples of suitable substrates and substrate materials are described, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 7,452,547 and U.S. Published Application No. 2009 / 0241242, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. In one embodiment, the substrate is a cloth or a face mask. Such embodiments comprise a water-insoluble substrate as defined in the referenced literature. For some embodiments, the water-insoluble substrate may be of a size and shape such that it covers the face of a human user, facilitating the placement of the water-insoluble substrate on the user's face as a mask substrate. For example, the water-insoluble mask substrate may have openings for the user's mouth, nose, and / or eyes. Alternatively, the water-insoluble substrate may lack such openings. Such an opening-free configuration may be useful for embodiments of the invention in which the water-insoluble substrate is intended to cover an extension of non-facial skin or if the water-insoluble substrate is intended to be used as a cloth. The water-insoluble substrate may have various shapes, such as an angular shape (e.g.,rectangular) or an arched shape, such as circular or oval. In one embodiment, the product includes a plurality of water-insoluble substrates of different shapes. In one embodiment of the invention, the product includes a first water-insoluble substrate and a second water-insoluble substrate. The first water-insoluble substrate is shaped for application to the forehead, and the second water-insoluble substrate is shaped for application near the mouth, such as areas above and / or below the lips, chin, and / or cheeks. In one embodiment of the invention, the first water-insoluble substrate is also applied to the nose region of the face. The first water-insoluble substrate may have a surface area of approximately 100 cm² to approximately 200 cm², such as approximately 120 cm² to approximately 160 cm², and the second water-insoluble substrate has a surface area of approximately 100 cm² to approximately 300 cm², such as approximately 150 cm² to approximately 250 cm2. In one modality, the water-insoluble substrate has low rigidity, so that it can, for example, easily cover or conform to the face or other parts of the user's body. The invention may comprise application to the skin of any part of the human body requiring treatment. For example, application may be made to one or more areas of the skin of the face, neck, chest, back, arms, armpits, hands, and / or legs. In certain embodiments, the method comprises applying a botanical or bacterial extract as described herein to the skin of the face. In addition, the compositions can be applied to other tissues, including hair, nails, oral mucosa, nasal mucosa, or vaginal mucosa. Any suitable method for applying the composition to the fabric requiring it may be used in accordance with the invention. For example, the composition may be applied directly from a container to the fabric requiring it, by hand to the fabric requiring it, or it may be transferred from a substrate such as a cloth or mask, or a combination of two or more of these. In other embodiments, the composition may be applied by means of a dropper, tube, roller, spray, patch, or added to a bath or otherwise to the water that will be applied to the fabric, and the like. In certain embodiments, the methods of the invention further comprise the step of contacting the composition with the fabric for a period of time. For example, the composition is left in contact with the fabric for a period of approximately 15 minutes or more. In another embodiment, the composition is left in contact with the fabric for approximately 20 minutes or more, more preferably approximately 1 hour or more. In certain embodiments, the method of the invention comprises a regime that involves applying the composition to the fabric many times during a selected period of time. For example, the invention provides a method for treating signs of aging comprising applying to the skin that needs treatment for signs of skin aging a composition comprising an extract as described herein once or twice a day for at least 12 weeks, preferably at least 8 weeks and more preferably for at least 2 weeks. In certain embodiments, the methods of the invention comprise applying at least two different compositions or products comprising botanical or bacterial extracts to tissue. For example, the methods may comprise applying a first composition comprising an extract to the tissue requiring treatment, followed by applying a second composition comprising the same or a different extract to the skin requiring treatment. In certain embodiments, the first and second compositions may be selected independently from the group consisting of lotions, cleansers, masks, cloths, creams, serums, gels, and the like. In certain embodiments, at least one of the first or second composition is a cleanser, lotion, cream, essence, or serum, and the other is a face mask or cloth. In certain other embodiments, at least one of the first or second composition is a cleanser, and the other is a lotion or cream. In certain other modalities, the method involves applying at least three products or compositions containing an extract to the tissue requiring treatment. Preferably, these three products are selected from the group consisting of cleansers, lotions, creams, essences, and face masks. The compositions of this invention may also be formulated as an ingestible composition. As used herein, an ingestible composition means a composition intended to be ingested or administered orally. Examples of forms of ingestible compositions include, but are not limited to, tablets, pills, capsules, powders, granules, solutions or suspensions, and drops. Such compositions may be swallowed whole or may be in chewable form. An ingestible composition may also be in the form of a confectionery product or a food product such as a biscuit, candy, food bar, chewing gum, yogurt additive, sprinkles, tea, juice or other beverage, liquid shake, or the like. Ingestible compositions do not include compositions intended to be administered topically to the skin or oral / vaginal cavity. The composition can be used to treat a variety of skin diseases and conditions, such as reducing the appearance of skin aging, skin inflammation, and skin pigmentation. Examples of skin aging that can be treated by topical or oral use of the compositions of this invention include, but are not limited to, wrinkles, loss of skin firmness or elasticity, sagging, and loose or droopy tissue. As used herein, the term wrinkle includes fine lines, fine wrinkles, deep wrinkles, cellulite, scars, and stretch marks. Examples of wrinkles include, but are not limited to, fine lines around the eyes (e.g., crow's feet), forehead and cheek wrinkles, frown lines, and laugh lines around the mouth. Examples of skin inflammation that can be treated by topical or oral use of the compositions of this invention include, but are not limited to, arthritis, contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis, eczema, allergic dermatitis, polymorphic light eruptions, inflammatory dermatoses, folliculitis, alopecia, poison ivy, insect bites, irritation induced by extrinsic factors including, but not limited to, chemicals, trauma, pollutants (such as cigarette smoke) and exposure to UV rays and wind, and secondary conditions resulting from inflammation including, but not limited to, xerosis, hyperkeratosis, pruritus, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, scarring and the like. Examples of skin pigmentation that can be treated by topical or oral use of the compositions of this invention include, but are not limited to, skin hyperpigmentation, light skin areas, uneven skin tone, discoloration, and swelling around the eye. Discoloration and swelling around the eye include, but are not limited to, bags and dark circles under the eye. In one modality, the dark circles under the eye to be treated are a result of increased blood concentration in the skin below the eye. Topical uses of compositions containing botanical or bacterial extracts described herein and a cosmetically acceptable carrier include, for example, skin aging, dry skin, pigment defects, UV radiation damage to the skin, skin irregularities such as wrinkles, fine lines, rough skin or enlarged pore skin, and diseases associated with skin aging such as defective keratinization, acne, eczema, inflammation and atrophoderma, in humans. As used in the present description, topical use and topical application means putting or smearing directly onto the external skin, hair or nails, e.g. using the hands or an applicator such as a cloth. In one embodiment, the invention is a method for treating a sign of skin aging comprising topically applying to the skin in need of treatment for skin aging a safe and effective amount of a composition comprising an extract as described herein. In another embodiment, the invention is a method for improving skin barrier properties, comprising topically applying to the skin that needs improved skin barrier function and moisturization a composition comprising an extract as described herein. In another embodiment, the invention is a method for treating acne, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of acne treatment a composition comprising an extract as described herein. Examples The following materials and testing methods were used in the examples. Gene expression testing method Abdominal skin samples were obtained from adult humans who underwent abdominoplasty surgery. Informed consent was obtained from each patient, and all experimental stages were approved by an Institutional Review Board (IRB). Subcutaneous fat was carefully removed, and 0.93 cm² skin biopsies were prepared under sterile conditions and acclimatized in DMEM / F12 (1:1) medium, containing 2% heat-inactivated fetal bovine serum, 10 pg / ml insulin, 10 ng / ml hydrocortisone, 10 ng / ml EGF, and ABAM Ix under a humidified atmosphere with 5% CO₂ overnight. The skin explants were treated topically with various concentrations for 48 hours.At the end of the 48-hour incubation, half of the skin biopsies were lysed in 400 µL of lysis regulator, consisting of 100 parts RLT regulator (RNeasy Mini kit, Qiagen, Valencia, CA) to 1 part 2-mercaptoethanol in a reinforced tube with a screw cap and O-ring closure, and ceramic globules in the tube to grind the tissue (commercially known as PRECELLYS CKMix50-R, Bertin Corp, Rockville, MD). The tubes were shaken for 40 s at 6300 rpm. RNA was extracted from the solutions using the RNeasy Mini kit (Qiagen, Valencia, CA) according to the manufacturer's instructions, and the RNA was eluted in 25 µL of RNase-free water. Reverse transcription (RT) was performed using the Applied Biosystems High-Throughput Reverse Transcription Kit (ThermoFisher Scientific, Bridgewater, NJ). Gene expression assays marketed under the trade name TAQMAN for cellular retinoic acid-binding protein 2 (CRABP2), heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HbEGF), hyaluronic acid synthase 3 (HAS3), UDP-glucose glucosylceramide transferase (UGCG), polymerase (RNA) polypeptide A II (POLR2A), and master mix sold under the trade name TAQMAN by ThermoFisher Scientific (Bridgewater, NJ). qPCR analysis was performed using the TaqMan® master mix (ThermoFisher Scientific, Bridgewater, NJ) and tested on a real-time PCR system sold under the trade name QUANTSTUDIO 7 Flex System (ThermoFisher Scientific, Bridgewater, NJ).The expression of these genes was normalized against the expression of the constitutive human POLR2A gene. Fold changes were calculated compared with untreated controls or vehicle and two-sample, two-tailed Student's t-tests were performed (Microsoft Office Excel 2007; Microsoft, Redmond, WA, USA). RARg transactivation assay method Retinoic acid receptor gamma (RARγ) agonism was assessed using the HEK 293T Invitrogen GeneBLAzer RARγ-UAS-bla cell-based assay, in which RARγ activation results in beta-lactamase transcription. FRET expression is observed when a FRET probe is added to the cells. However, after receptor activation and subsequent beta-lactamase expression, the probe is cleaved, and FRET expression is no longer observed. Cultured cells are washed with PBS, trypsinized, and resuspended in growth medium. The cells are counted using a ViCell cell counter, then centrifuged and resuspended in assay buffer (at 0.5E6 cells / ml). Fifteen thousand cells are plated into 30 µl of assay buffer per well in Greiner black-walled, clear, flat-bottom plates with a Combi dispenser. The last two columns are filled with assay buffer. Ten µl of 4x concentrated test samples are added to the cells using a Jano dispenser, and the cells are centrifuged at 800 rpm for 2 min without brakes. They are then allowed to stand at room temperature for 15 min before overnight incubation at 37 °C. After 18–20 h of incubation, 8 µL of FRET dye (Invitrogen K1096) was added using a Tempest dispenser. The plates were then centrifuged at 800 rpm for 2 min without brakes and incubated in the dark at room temperature for 2 h. The bottoms of the plates were wiped with an anti-static wiper before fluorescence was measured using a BMG plate reader (with the FRET module, 10 readings, gain for both channels = 1000, Ex 409, Eml 460, Em2 530). The average Eml and Em2 values from wells containing only assay regulator were subtracted from the Eml and Em2 values of the assay, respectively. The subsequent determination of the Eml / Em2 ratio represents the RARg activity. DMSO and ATRA were used as neutral and stimulating controls, respectively, for standardization. Acronychia acidula extract (El) A pre-weighed frozen fruit of Acronychia acidulase was homogenized in a mixer for 30 seconds with denatured alcohol in equal parts to the frozen fruit. The pulp was then mixed and stirred for another 24 hours at room temperature (22–26°C). Additional denatured alcohol was added as needed to keep the pulp well coated. The mixture was then gravity-filtered, and the filter cake was washed with additional amounts of denatured alcohol. The entire filtrate was then dried under reduced pressure to remove the alcohol. The residue was freeze-dried to obtain dry matter free of extraction solvent and water. The extraction was repeated on the filter cake a few times, with a 5–7% extract yield regularly obtained from each extraction.One of these batches was prepared with 100 kg of frozen fruit of Acronychia acidula and the dry extract (El) was used in subsequent experiments described in the present description. Extract of Lycaeria vernicosa (E2, E3) Two extracts of Licaria vernicosa_6e\ Baruch S. Blummerg Institute, Doylestown, PA (formerly known as IVHR) were obtained. The first extract was from the woody part of the plant (E2) and the second extract was from the roots (E3). In the IHVR collection nomenclature, the extracts are labeled IHVR_40256_G10 = X-005348-001E002 and IHVR_40256_E10 = X-005346-001M002, respectively. The woody parts and roots of Licaria vernicosa (Mez) Kosterm. were collected from Guyana. 504.3 g of crushed woody plant material was extracted, dried with methanol ampie, and vacuum dried to produce 10.54 g of crude methanol extract (E2) for X-005348-001E002. 403.8 g of crushed root material was extracted, dried with methanol ampie, and vacuum dried to produce 18.11 g of crude methanol extract (E3) for X005346-001M002. Actinomyces extract A5640 (E4) A general method for culturing and extracting this strain and its extract is registered with the Baruch S. Blummerg Institute, Doylestown, PA (formerly known as IVHR). In the IHVR collection nomenclature, the extract is labeled IHVR_39565_F7. The extract of Actinomyces sp A5640 is referred to as E4 in this description. Extracts of Calendula officinalis (E5) and Trigonella foenum-qraecum (Έ6) The extracts of Calendula officinalis (E5) and Trigonella foenum-graecum (E6) were obtained from Caithness Biotechnologies Ltd, UK (http: / / www.caithnessbiotechnologies.com / ). These extracts are part of The Phytotitre Natural Product Library, which is publicly available for purchase. The method of preparing the extracts is described by Caithness Biotechnologies Ltd. as non-polar, using a mixture of methanol and methylene chloride. In a typical extraction, a pre-weighed, dry powdered biomass is suspended and stirred in a methanol / methylene chloride mixture (1:1) overnight at room temperature. The suspension is then filtered, and the filtrate is dried under reduced pressure to a solvent-free residue.Next, the residue is dissolved in a sufficient quantity of 100% DMSO to obtain a raw material solution at a concentration of 10 mg / mL. This raw material solution was used to prepare dilutions in appropriate media for screening. Example 1 Gene expression analysis for CRABP2 was performed in compositions of 0.1% (w / v) Acronychia acidula extract (E1), 0.1% (w / v) Licaria vernicosa extracts (E2 and E3), and 0.1% (w / v) Actinomyces sp. A5640 extract (E4), each in a 30 / 70 (v / v) polypropylene glycol / ethanol vehicle. Gene expression was assessed according to the gene expression analysis test method described above. The test compositions were compared against the 0.1% retinol product sold under the trade name NEUTROGENA RAPID WRINKLE REPAIR (RWR) (Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc., Skillman, NJ), both untreated and with vehicle. The results are shown in Table 1. Table 1 Untreated Vehicle RWR (0.1% retinol) 0.1% of E2 0.1% of E3 0.1% of E4 CRABP2 1.00 0.41 2.43 2.96 1.47 1.88 1.42 Results: Cellular retinol-binding proteins (CRABPs) are a family of cytoplasmic binding proteins that have been shown to facilitate retinol uptake and prevent spontaneous non-enzymatic isomerization and oxidation of retinol. CRABP2 (cellular retinoic acid-binding protein II) signaling has been shown to be upregulated by retinol treatment in human skin, both in vivo and in vitro. This example shows that topical treatment of human skin explants with compositions of extracts from Acronychia acidula, Licaria vernicosa, and Actimomyces sp. A5640, used at 0.1% (w / v), generates retinol-like bioactivity, as shown by the induction of CRABP2 gene expression. Therefore, the upregulation of CRABP2 and its associated retinol-like activity are indicative of retinol-like skin benefits, such as improved skin appearance, including a reduction in signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles. Example 2 Gene expression analysis for CRABP2 was performed in compositions ranging from 0.04% (w / v) to 3% (w / v) of Acronychia acidula (El) extract in a 30 / 70 (v / v) polypropylene glycol / ethanol vehicle, according to the gene expression analysis test method described above. The test compositions were compared against a 0.1% retinol product marketed under the trade name NEUTROGENA RAPID WRINKLE (RWR) and treated with the vehicle. The results are shown in Table 2. Table 2 Vehicle 0.04% of 0.1% of 1% of 3% of RWR (0.1% retinol) CRABP2 1 ± 0.1 2.35 ± 1.15 4.27 ± 0.44* 7.20 ± 0.81* 5.12 ± 1.50* 6.22 ± 2.84* Results: Cellular retinol-binding proteins (CRABPs) are a family of cytoplasmic binding proteins that have been shown to facilitate retinol uptake and prevent spontaneous non-enzymatic isomerization and oxidation of retinol. CRABP2 (cellular retinoic acid-binding protein II) signaling has been shown to be upregulated by retinol treatment in human skin, both in vivo and in vitro. This example shows that topical treatment of human skin explants with compositions of 0.04% (w / v) to 3% (w / v) of Acronychia acidula extract induced CRABP2 gene expression of the retinoic acid gene in human skin explants when applied topically*, p<0.05. Acronychia acidula extracts produce retinol-like bioactivity, as shown by the induction of CRABP2 gene expression, similar to the reference retinol RWR 0.1% used as a positive control in the assay. Example 3 Gene expression analysis for HAS3, UGCG, and HbEGF was performed on a 0.1% (w / v) composition of Acronychia acidula (El) extract in a 30 / 70 (v / v) polypropylene glycol / ethanol vehicle, according to the gene expression analysis test method described above. The test compositions were compared against 0.1% of a retinol product marketed under the trade name NEUTROGENA RAPID WRINKLE (RWR), both treated with and untreated. The results are shown in Table 3. The upregulation of these gene activities is indicative of retinol-like skin benefits, such as improved skin appearance, including reduced signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles. The upregulation of UCGC genes leads to increased formation of glycosylated ceramide, which enhances the production of epidermal lipids that strengthen the skin barrier. Table 3 Untreated Vehicle RWR (0.1% retinol) 0.1% of HAS3 1 ± 0.0 1.58 ± 1.32 3.49 ± 1.73* 2.60 ± 1.27* HbEGF 1 ± 0.0 1.35 ± 0.76 7.16 ± 2.69* 6.18 ± 1.95* UGCG 1 ± 0.0 1.99 ± 1.07 4.60 ± 3.33 4.42 ± 2.15* Results: The genes for heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HbEGF) and hyaluronan synthase 3 (HAS3) are also induced by retinol. HbEGF is known to improve skin thickness and elasticity and to reverse skin thinning due to steroid treatment, while HAS3 is known to improve skin hydration. UGCG is an enzyme involved in ceramide synthesis in humans and is known to improve the skin barrier. Example 3 shows that topical treatment of human skin explants by compositions of 0.1% (w / v) Acronychia acidula extract and RWR-like gene expression of HAS3, HbEGF and ceramide glucosyltransferase (UGCG), 0.1% retinol in human skin explants when applied topically*, p<0.05. Example 4 Ten-mm biopsies of human skin explants were treated topically with either a 30 / 70 (v / v) polypropylene glycol / ethanol vehicle alone or a 1% (w / v) composition of Acronychia acidula (El) extract in a 30 / 70 (v / v) polypropylene glycol / ethanol vehicle for seven days, and their impact on elastin fiber formation was investigated. Human skin explants were also treated topically with a formulation containing 0.1% retinol as a positive control. Untreated human skin explant samples were left as a negative control. After seven days, the skin biopsies were fixed in 10% regulated formalin solution (Thermo Fisher Scientific, Hudson, NH), dehydrated, and then embedded in paraffin. Five-micrometer-thick sections were harvested from each biopsy. The sections were stained with Luna stain (American HistoLabs, Gaithersburg, MD), to document the elastin fibers in purple.Images of skin explants were obtained using a Leitz microscope and a Leica camera (Leica, Allendale, NI). Figure 1 shows images of skin explants including untreated, vehicle-treated, 1% Acronychia acidula (El) extract, and 0.1% retinol. Results: In contrast to untreated human skin samples or skin samples treated with a 30 / 70 (v / v) propylene glycol / ethanol vehicle solution treated topically only, an increase in elastin fiber formation was observed in the epidermal-dermal region of human skin explants treated topically with a 1% (w / v) composition of Acronychia acidula (El) extract in a 30 / 70 (v / v) polypropylene glycol / ethanol vehicle for seven days, similar to that observed with the formulation containing 0.1% retinol used as an experimental positive control. Increased elastin formation results in stronger skin with greater elasticity, making it less prone to signs and symptoms of skin aging, such as wrinkles. This increased elastin formation is a well-known retinol-induced anti-aging skin benefit associated with an improved skin appearance, including reduced signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles. Therefore, the increased elastin fiber formation by Acronychia acidula extract exhibits retinol-like activity and is indicative of similar skin benefits, such as an improved skin appearance that includes reduced signs of aging, including fine lines and wrinkles. Example 5 Ten-mm biopsies of human skin explants were treated topically with either a 30 / 70 (v / v) polypropylene glycol / ethanol vehicle alone or a 1% (w / v) composition of Acronychia acidula (El) extract in a 30 / 70 (v / v) polypropylene glycol / ethanol vehicle for seven days, and their impact on elastin fiber formation was investigated. Human skin explants were also treated topically with a formulation containing 0.1% retinol as an experimental positive control for comparison. Untreated human skin explant samples were left as an experimental negative control for comparison. After seven days, the skin biopsies were fixed in 10% regulated formalin solution (Thermo Fisher Scientific, Hudson, NH), dehydrated, and then embedded in paraffin. Five-micrometer-thick sections were harvested from each biopsy.The sections were stained with Herovici stain (American HistoLabs, Gaithersburg, MD) to document procollagen in blue. Skin explant images were obtained using a Leitz microscope and a Leica camera (Leica, Allendale, NJ). Figure 2 shows images of skin explants including untreated, treated with the vehicle, 1% Acronychia acidula (El) extract, and 0.1% retinol. Results: In contrast to untreated human skin samples or skin samples treated with a 30 / 70 (v / v) propylene glycol / ethanol vehicle solution treated topically only, an increase in procollagen formation was observed in the epidermal-dermal region of human skin explants treated topically with a 1% (w / v) composition of Acronychia acidula (El) extract in a 30 / 70 (v / v) polypropylene glycol / ethanol vehicle for seven days, similar to that observed with the formulation containing 0.1% retinol used as an experimental positive control. An increase in procollagen formation results in stronger, more elastic skin that is less prone to the signs and symptoms of skin aging, such as wrinkles. It also improves hydration and the skin barrier function. This increase in procollagen formation is a well-known retinol-induced anti-aging skin benefit associated with an improved skin appearance, including a reduction in the signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles. Therefore, the increased procollagen formation by Acronychia acidula extract exhibits retinol-like activity and is indicative of similar skin benefits, such as an improved skin appearance, including a reduction in the signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles. Example 6 A variety of extracts of Calendula officinalis (E5) and Trigonella foenum-graecum (E6) were tested using the RARg transactivation assay at a concentration of 50 µg / ml on two separate days, with replicates on the first of the two days. Extracts that provided receptor activation of less than 15% were considered inactive. Extracts that provided receptor activation of more than 25% were considered active. The results are shown in Table 4. Table 4 Extract Part of plant used Type of extract RARg E5 activity Flowers Polar Inactive E5 Petals Polar Inactive E6 Leaves Polar Inactive E6 Seed Polar Inactive E5 Flowers Non-polar Inactive E5 Petals Non-polar Active E6 Leaves Non-polar Active E6 Seed Non-polar Inactive Nonpolar extracts of Calendula officinalis petals and Trigonella foenum-graecum leaves, in particular, were significant RARg activators. In contrast, the other extracts from each of the two plants were found to be inactive when tested at a concentration of 50 µg / ml. Further dose-response experiments were performed using the RARg transactivation assay on the two active extracts E5 and E6 as well as on extracts of Acronychia acidula fruit (E1), Licaria vernicosa wood (E2), Licaria vernicosa root (E3), and Actinomyces bacteria (E4), which also showed RARg activity confirmed by the RARg transactivation assay. The results are shown in Table 5. Table 5 Extract Source Part of plant used Extract type EC50 (ug / ml) E5 Calendula Officinalis Petals Non-polar 7.9 E6 Trigonella foenum-graecum Leaves Non-polar 13.5 Acronychia acidula Fruit Non-polar 1.9 E2 Licaria vernicosa Wood Non-polar 21.9 E3 Licaria vernicosa Root Non-polar 32.2 E4 Actinomyces sp A5640 (Cell culture) Non-polar >100 The effects of the extracts on cell viability were evaluated, with no toxicity observed. Example 7 The 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid compound was tested with the RARg transactivation assay as follows. 3-(4-Farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid was manufactured by Organix Inc., a company of Woburn, Massachusetts, USA. A routine synthetic scheme was followed to obtain 100 mg of compound at a purity >98%. All spectroscopic data confirmed the structural configuration for 3-(4-Farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid. The compound was tested as a solution in DMSO at different concentrations to evaluate the EC50 value, which turned out to be 0.22 ug / ml. Example 8 The effect of 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid on skin hyperkeratinization was tested as follows. Human epidermal skin equivalents from MatTek Company (Ashland, MA, USA) were used. The skin equivalents were topically treated with 10% oleic acid (OA) with or without the addition of 1 μM of 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid in a proprietary MatTek medium (phenol red-free, hydrocortisone-free) for 48 hours. The epidermal skin equivalents were harvested at the end of treatment and fixed in 10% neutral regulated formalin solution (Thermo Fisher Scientific, Hudson, NH, USA), dehydrated, and embedded in paraffin. Tissue sections (5 µm thick) were cut and stained with hematoxylin and eosin. Three photographs were taken per section for each skin equivalent. The thickness of the stratum corneum or epidermis was measured using an ImagePro Plus (Media Cybernetics Inc., Rockville, MD, USA).The thickness of the stratum corneum was expressed as a percentage of total epidermis (=thickness of the stratum corneum divided by the sum of the thicknesses of the stratum corneum and epidermis). The percentage of hyperkeratinization was normalized by the thickness of the tissues treated with 10% OA. Statistical analysis was performed using a two-tailed, equal-variance Student's t-test (Microsoft Office Excel 2007; Microsoft, Redmond, WA, USA). The results are shown in Table 6. Table 6 Test composition Stratum corneum thickness (% of total epidermis) % of hyperkeratinization (normalized to 10% OA) Average Standard deviation Average Standard deviation 10% oleic acid 50% 9% 100% 17% 10% oleic acid + 1 uM 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid 38% 7% 76% 8% The results indicate that 3-(4-farnesiloxyphenyl)propionic acid significantly reduced (p< 0.05) oleic acid (OA)-induced hyperkeratinization in human epidermal skin equivalents. Acne vulgaris is a disease of the pilosebaceous units with a multifactorial pathogenesis, which includes hyperkeratinization. The excess of unsaturated free fatty acids in the sebum of subjects with acne may contribute to the deterioration of the skin barrier associated with the increased thickness of the follicular stratum corneum and the inflammation observed in acne. Oleic acid is known to induce hyperkeratinization in human epidermal skin equivalents by mimicking the histopathology of acne (Li, 2017). Consequently, compositions according to the invention containing 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid may be favorably used to treat acne and other conditions associated with hyperkeratinization. NOVELTY OF THE INVENTION
Claims
1. A cosmetic method for treating signs of skin aging, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of treatment of the signs of skin aging a composition comprising an extract selected from the group consisting of extracts of Acronychia acidula, extracts of Licaria vernicosa, extracts of Calendula officinalis, extracts of Trigonella foenum-graecum, extracts of Actimomyces bacteria, and combinations thereof.
2. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, further characterized in that the extract is a polar extract of the fruit of Acronichia acidula.
3. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, further characterized in that the extract is a polar extract of Licaria vernicosa wood or Icaria vernicosa root.
4. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, further characterized in that the extract is a non-polar extract of Calendula officinalis petals. 5 - The cosmetic method according to claim 1, further characterized in that the extract is a non-polar extract of Trigonella foenum-graecum leaves.
6. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, further characterized in that the extract comprises more than zero and up to approximately 20% by weight of the composition.
7. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, further characterized in that the composition also comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
8. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, further characterized in that the sign of skin aging is the decreased synthesis of collagen or elastin.
9. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, further characterized in that the composition comprises 3-(4-farnesiloxyphenyl)-propionic acid and / or its ethyl ester.
10. A cosmetic method for improving skin barrier properties, comprising topically applying to the skin in need of improved skin barrier function and moisturization a composition comprising an extract selected from the group consisting of extracts of Acronychia acidula, extracts of Licaria vernicosa, extracts of Calendula officinalis, extracts of Trigonella foenum-graecum, extracts of Actimomyces bacteria, and combinations thereof.
11. The cosmetic method according to claim 10, further characterized in that the extract is a polar extract of the fruit of Acronichia acidula.
12. The cosmetic method according to claim 10, further characterized in that the extract is a polar extract of Licaria vernicosa wood or Licaria vernicosa root.
13. The cosmetic method according to claim 10, further characterized in that the extract is a non-polar extract of Calendula officinalis petals.
14. The cosmetic method according to claim 10, further characterized in that the extract is a non-polar extract of Trigonella foenum-graecum leaves.
15. The cosmetic method according to claim 10, further characterized in that the extract comprises more than zero and up to approximately 20% by weight of the composition.
16. The cosmetic method according to claim 10, further characterized in that the composition also comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
17. The cosmetic method according to claim 10, further characterized in that the topical application increases the level of hyaluronic acid in the skin.
18. The cosmetic method according to claim 10, further characterized in that the composition comprises 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid and / or its ethyl ester.
19. A cosmetic method for treating acne, comprising applying topically to the skin in need of acne treatment a composition comprising an extract selected from the group consisting of extracts of Acronychia acidula, extracts of Licaria vernicosa, extracts of Calendula officinalis, extracts of Trigonella foenum-graecum, extracts of Actimomyces bacteria, and combinations thereof. 20.- The cosmetic method according to claim 19, further characterized in that the extract is a polar extract of the fruit of Acronichia acidula. 21.- The cosmetic method according to claim 19, further characterized in that the extract is a polar extract of Licaria vernicosa wood or Licaria vernicosa root.
22. The cosmetic method according to claim 19, further characterized in that the extract is a non-polar extract of Calendula officinalis petals.
23. The cosmetic method according to claim 19, further characterized in that the extract is a non-polar extract of Trigonella foenum-graecum leaves. 24.- The cosmetic method according to claim 19, further characterized in that the extract comprises more than zero and up to approximately 20% by weight of the composition.
25. The cosmetic method according to claim 19, further characterized in that the composition also comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
26. The cosmetic method according to claim 19, further characterized in that the composition comprises 3-(4-farnesyloxyphenyl)propionic acid and / or its ethyl ester.