Alcoholic extract of aerial parts of plantago lanceolata, method for obtaining same, and cosmetic composition containing same

Abstract

The invention relates to an extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, a method for obtaining same, a cosmetic composition containing same, and different cosmetic uses.

Description

[0001] Alcoholic extract of the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, its production process, and cosmetic composition containing it

[0002] The invention relates to an extract of the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, its process for obtaining, a cosmetic composition containing it, as well as various cosmetic uses.

[0003] The skin is mainly made up of three layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermis, starting from the most superficial. The epidermis plays a major role in protecting the skin and maintaining its proper functioning. The epidermis acts as both a water and physical barrier.

[0004] The epidermis itself is also made up of four to five layers, and each of these layers corresponds to a state of differentiation of keratinocytes (the majority cell type of the epidermis). These layers are, starting from the most superficial, the stratum corneum, the stratum lucidum (present only in thick epidermis), the stratum granulosum, the stratum spinosum, and the stratum basale. Thus, the basal layer, the deepest, is the germinative or proliferative compartment that gives rise to the keratinocytes of the more superficial layers. Keratinocytes have strong adhesion structures such as desmosomes and tight junctions that allow them to anchor themselves to other keratinocytes.

[0005] The primary function of the epidermis is to produce the stratum corneum, which forms a semi-permeable protective layer by preventing water loss, maintaining adequate hydration of the skin, and avoiding overhydration. Thus, the epidermis acts as a water barrier.

[0006] Given that the skin is the body's first protective barrier against the environment, it is therefore subject to numerous external attacks which can lead to uncomfortable skin reactions or even, in the case of very intense or more serious reactions, to skin irritation and / or inflammation.

[0007] Skin reactions of discomfort, or alternatively reactions of irritation and / or inflammation of the skin, can be induced in particular by contact with chemical products such as cleansers, or come from mechanical actions such as shaving, exfoliation, peeling, hair removal.

[0008] There is still a need for new soothing agents in the cosmetic field. There is also a need for new agents capable of treating and / or reducing skin irritation and / or inflammation reactions in the dermatological field. There is also a need to prevent a decrease in and / or strengthen the skin barrier function to physiologically restore a suitable hydration state to the stratum corneum.

[0009] However, the Applicant has now found that an alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, obtained by a particular process, exhibits, through stimulation or inhibition of physiological mechanisms, interesting activities with regard to strengthening the skin barrier function and reducing inflammation. Indeed, as demonstrated in examples, the alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, according to the invention, exhibits interesting cosmetic properties: it allows significant stimulation of biological pathways linked to the skin barrier function and in particular markers of epidermal differentiation such as SPRR, CNFN, LCE3D, SBSN, FLG1 as well as more specific markers of desmosomes such as CDSN, DSG1 or tight junctions such as CLDN7 or AQP9 which is also a gene involved in maintaining good skin hydration.

[0010] Through its ability to stimulate targets involved in epidermal differentiation and water retention in the skin, the extract according to the invention shows cosmetic properties of reinforcing the barrier function and hydration.

[0011] On the other hand, the extract has soothing cosmetic properties because it inhibits the biological pathways of neuroinflammation and that of interferons, immunomodulatory cytokines known for their regulatory role in skin inflammation.

[0012] Document FR 2 850 572 proposes the use of verbascoside as an agent for stimulating the synthesis of heat shock proteins and inhibiting collagenase and elastase by skin cells. However, this document does not describe an alcoholic extract comprising, in addition to verbascoside, other compounds, such as aucubin and catalpol.

[0013] Indeed, in this document, verbascoside alone is described as playing a role in the fight against skin aging and environmental pollution through its ability to stimulate the synthesis of heat shock proteins, and more specifically HSP70. According to this document, the synthesis of constitutive HSPs evolves with age and, in general, tends towards a decrease in tissues. The increase in HSP70 expression by verbascoside can thus be considered, according to this document, as a means of increasing the fight against environmental pollution.

[0014] However, such an extract does not allow action on genes involved in pathways linked to inflammation in normal human keratinocytes or to the strengthening of the barrier / hydration function.

[0015] The invention therefore relates, according to a first aspect, to an alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, comprising at least aucubin, catalpol and verbascoside.

[0016] The invention also relates, according to a second aspect, to a method for extracting aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, comprising at least the following steps: a) grinding the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, b) at least one, preferably at least two extractions of said ground aerial parts in the presence of a first mono-alcoholic solvent, each extraction being followed by a filtration step; c) mixing the liquid filtrates from the extractions of step b); filtration of the mixture obtained and, optionally, decolorization of the filtrate obtained by adsorption on activated carbon; d) concentration of the mixture obtained in step c), to obtain an extract having a dry matter content of between 8% and 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first mono-alcoholic solvent;e) adding a second alcoholic solvent to the concentrated extract obtained in step d), said second alcoholic solvent being different from the first monoalcoholic solvent used in step b), followed by removal of the first monoalcoholic solvent to a final concentration of less than 0.5%; and optionally filtering the extract obtained.;

[0017] The invention also relates to an alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata which can be obtained by such a process.

[0018] The invention also relates to a cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata obtained by such a process, for strengthening the barrier and hydration function or as a soothing agent.

[0019] The invention further relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, an alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, according to the first aspect. By cosmetically acceptable vehicle is meant a medium compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and appendages. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application.

[0020] Figures

[0021] Figure 1 illustrates the dosage of histamine released into the culture medium of explants treated or not with the extract according to the invention under basal conditions (left) or stressed conditions (right).

[0022] Figure 2 illustrates the count of degranulated mast cells in explants treated or not with the extract according to the invention under stressed conditions.

[0023] The raw material used consists of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata.

[0024] Ribwort plantain (Plantago lanceolata, also called lesser plantain, five-seam herb, 5-ribbed herb, seam herb) is a perennial herb, reaching 10 to 60 cm in height, with dense rosettes of basal leaves and a long flower stalk. The leaves are green, covered with hairs, oval and lanceolate, measuring 10 to 25 cm in length, and with 5 to 9 converging parallel veins. The flower stalk, 60 cm in height, is topped with a cylindrical spike of tiny, very tender green flowers. Flowering takes place from April to October.

[0025] It is native to Europe, North Africa, temperate and tropical Asia and has been introduced throughout the world.

[0026] It is a species that grows between 0 and 2000 meters in a sunny or partially shaded location and in rich, rather acidic and well-drained soil. It generally grows in pastures, lawns and fields.

[0027] The aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata used according to the invention are typically chosen from flowers, leaves, stems and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the aerial parts used are a mixture of flowers, leaves and stems of Plantago lanceolata. Preferably, these aerial parts are previously dried, then crushed or reduced to pieces in the usual manner, to preferably be in the form of a powder of a size less than 2 cm. The dry extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata which is the subject of the present invention is composed of several families of primary and secondary metabolites of interest.

[0028] The alcoholic extract of the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata which is the subject of the present invention comprises in particular at least aucubin, catalpol and verbascoside.

[0029] In particular, the alcoholic extract of Plantago lanceolata of the invention comprises

[0030] 10 to 50% by weight of sugars and sorbitol, preferably 20 to 40% by weight,

[0031] 1 to 10% by weight of aucubin, preferably 6 to 9% by weight,

[0032] 20 to 40% by weight of catalpol, preferably 25 to 35% by weight, and

[0033] 5 to 15% by weight of verbascoside, preferably 10 to 12% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0034] Indeed, a significant quantity of iridoids is present in the extract between 20 and 70% by weight, preferably between 30 and 50% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0035] These iridoids correspond in particular to two compounds with the crude formulas C15H22O9 and C15H22O10 respectively attributed to aucubin and catalpol.

[0036] Aucubin (I), catalpol (II) are compounds with the following structures:

[0037] In particular, the extract comprises a significant amount of catalpol ranging from 20 to 40% by weight of catalpol, preferably 25 to 35% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract. Indeed, the prior art does not describe alcoholic extracts of Plantago lanceolata having such high amounts of catalpol. For example, KALANTARI et al. (“Self-Nanoemulsifying Drug Delivery Systems Containing Plantago lanceolata - An Assessment of Their Antioxidant and Antiinflammatory Effects", MOLECULES, vol. 22, no. 10, 2017, page 1773) or CAMPS et al: "FT -NIR assisted Machine and Deep Learning for Determination of Acteoside, Aucubin and Catalpol Contents of Plantago lanceolata", AGRICULTURAL RESEARCH & TECHNOLOGY, 2020, pages 1-5) describe different extracts whose catalpol content does not exceed 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0038] The extract also comprises verbascoside, present between 5 and 15% by weight, preferably between 10 and 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0039] Verbascoside (III) is a compound with the following structure: It is therefore to the applicant's credit that he succeeded in preparing an extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata including in particular aucubin, catalpol and verbascoside, which makes it specific.

[0040] The extract of the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata contains various families of primary and secondary metabolites.

[0041] Among the primary metabolites, the presence of sugars and polyols represents between 10 and 50% by weight of sugars and sorbitol, preferably 20 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the dry extract. More particularly, the dry extract is mainly composed of sorbitol, glucose and sucrose. Advantageously, the sugars comprise glucose and sucrose, preferably 1 to 7% by weight of glucose and 1 to 7% by weight of sucrose, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0042] Preferably, the extract according to the invention comprises between 20 and 30% by weight of sorbitol, preferably between 22 and 26% by weight of sorbitol relative to the total weight of the dry extract. Preferably, the extract according to the invention comprises between 1 and 5% by weight of glucose relative to the total weight of the dry extract. Preferably, the extract according to the invention comprises between 1 and 5% by weight of sucrose relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0043] The alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata of the invention may in particular be obtained by means of a process for extracting the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata comprising the following steps: a) grinding the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, b) at least one, preferably at least two extractions of said ground aerial parts in the presence of a first mono-alcoholic solvent, each extraction being followed by a filtration step; c) mixing the liquid filtrates from the extractions of step b); filtration of the mixture obtained and, optionally, decolorization of the filtrate obtained by adsorption on activated carbon; d) concentrating the mixture obtained in step c), to obtain an extract having a dry matter content of between 8% and 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first mono-alcoholic solvent;e) adding a second alcoholic solvent to the concentrated extract obtained in step d), said second alcoholic solvent being different from the first mono-alcoholic solvent used in step b), followed by removal of the first mono-alcoholic solvent to a final concentration of less than 0.5%; and optionally filtering the extract obtained.;

[0044] Preferably, the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata used in step a) are dried and are typically chosen from flowers, leaves, stems and mixtures thereof.

[0045] In particular, they are crushed or reduced to pieces, for example to a fineness of less than 2 cm, by any means known to those skilled in the art.

[0046] In step b), the crushed aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata are subjected to at least one, preferably at least two extractions with one or more monoalcoholic solvents, for example chosen from monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms (C1-C4), such as for example methanol, ethanol or isopropanol.

[0047] Preferably, the first mono-alcoholic solvent is a mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably ethanol.

[0048] Preferably, the first mono-alcoholic solvent used in a mixture of at least 90% with water, preferably at least 95% with water.

[0049] Preferably, the ethanol is used in a mixture of at least 90% with water, preferably at least 95% with water.

[0050] In particular, ethanol is used in a 96% mixture with water.

[0051] The extraction is generally carried out by immersing and gently shaking the crushed aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, preferably previously dried, in one or more of the alcoholic solvents mentioned above, each for a period of between 1 and 6 hours, preferably between 1 and 3 hours, at a temperature of between 40°C and 80°C, preferably between 50 and 70°C, more preferably between 55 and 65°C.

[0052] Preferably, the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata are extracted in the first mono-alcoholic solvent with a ratio of between 0.5 / 10 and 2 / 10, preferably between 0.8 / 10 and 1.2 / 10, preferably 1 / 10 by mass of aerial parts relative to the mass of the first mono-alcoholic solvent.

[0053] Extraction step b) is followed by filtration, for example through a 50um sieve, to remove plant residues.

[0054] The extract free of plant residues can then be left to settle for at least 6 hours. The settlement can, for example, be carried out in a funnel. According to a preferred embodiment, the settlement step is carried out for at least 8 hours, preferably at least 12 hours, and more preferably for 6 to 18 hours. The settlement is carried out at a temperature between 0 and 25°C, preferably between 1 and 10°C, more preferably between 4 and 5°C.

[0055] According to a preferred embodiment, step b) implements at least two extractions. In this case, each extraction is followed by a filtration step.

[0056] Preferably, a first extraction is carried out for a period of 2 hours at a temperature of 60°C and a second extraction is also carried out for a period of 2 hours at a temperature of 60°C.

[0057] At the end of extraction step(s) b), the liquid filtrates are recovered and mixed.

[0058] The filtrate or mixture of filtrates obtained at the end of step c) is then filtered again in order to remove the insoluble substances. Preferably, the filtration of the extract obtained in c) is carried out on a 4 µm sieve or filtration membrane. This gives a liquid filtrate. This liquid filtrate is an alcoholic fraction.

[0059] Preferably, between steps d) and e), a step of decolorizing the filtrate obtained in c) is added. The decolorization can be carried out by adsorption of the pigments present in the filtrate on activated carbon with stirring for a period of between 1 and 6 hours, preferably between 2 and 4 hours, at room temperature. Preferably, the activated carbon represents 30% by mass relative to the dry matter of the extract. This decolorization step can be followed by a step of filtration of the decolorized filtrate obtained, on a 4 μm sieve or filtration membrane.

[0060] In step d), the mixture obtained in step c) is concentrated to obtain an extract having a dry matter content of between 8% and 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first mono-alcoholic solvent. Preferably, the concentrated extract obtained in step d) has a dry matter content of between 10% and 12%.

[0061] Preferably, the concentration of step d) is carried out by evaporation, in particular by partial evaporation under reduced pressure, for example by means of a rotary evaporator or a scraped film evaporator.

[0062] In step e), a second alcoholic solvent is then added to the concentrated extract obtained in step d) to dilute the extract to a dry matter content of between 8 and 12%, preferably between 9 and 11%, said second alcoholic solvent being different from the first mono-alcoholic solvent used in step b), followed by removal of the first mono-alcoholic solvent to a final concentration of less than 0.5%.

[0063] The second alcoholic solvent of step e) may be chosen from C1-C4 monoalcohols, such as for example methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol or isobutanol; polyols, in particular diols, such as for example propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or dipropylene glycol, or triols such as glycerin.

[0064] Preferably, the second alcoholic solvent of step e) is a polyol comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 1,3-propanediol.

[0065] Even more preferably, the first mono-alcoholic solvent of step b) is a mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably ethanol, and the second alcoholic solvent of step e) is a polyol comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 1,3-propanediol.

[0066] Step e) also provides a further step of removing the first mono-alcoholic solvent used in step a) after the step of diluting it in the second alcoholic solvent so that the first is present in a concentration of less than 5% in the extract, preferably in a concentration of less than 1% in the extract, preferably in a concentration of less than 0.5% in the extract. The removal of the first mono-alcoholic solvent in step e) is carried out by evaporation, in particular by total evaporation under reduced pressure, for example using a scraped film evaporator. Advantageously, this step is carried out using a scraped film evaporator.

[0067] The extract is finally filtered through a sieve or filtration membrane, preferably 4 11m.

[0068] The order of the steps of removing the first mono-alcoholic solvent and adding the second alcoholic solvent is indifferent. In particular, the first mono-alcoholic solvent present in the liquid filtrate may be removed, then the remainder of the filtrate is diluted in a second alcoholic solvent. Alternatively, the liquid filtrate is first diluted in a second alcoholic solvent, and the first mono-alcoholic solvent is then removed. Alternatively, the dilution in the second alcoholic solvent and the removal of the first mono-alcoholic solvent may be simultaneous. Preferably, the alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, according to the invention, is capable of being obtained by a process comprising the following steps: a) grinding the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, b) at least one, preferably at least two extractions of said ground aerial parts in the presence of a first mono-alcoholic solvent,each extraction being followed by a filtration step; c) mixing the liquid filtrates from the extractions of step b); and filtration of the mixture obtained and, optionally, decolorization of the filtrate obtained by adoption on activated carbon; d) concentration of the mixture obtained in step c), to obtain an extract having a dry matter content of between 8% and 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first mono-alcoholic solvent; e) adding a second alcoholic solvent to the concentrated extract obtained in step d), said second alcoholic solvent being different from the first mono-alcoholic solvent used in step b), followed by removal of the first mono-alcoholic solvent to a final concentration of less than 0.5%; and optionally filtration of the extract obtained.,

[0069] Advantageously, the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata used in step a) are dried.

[0070] Advantageously, the extract used according to the invention is orange to amber in color.

[0071] Also, said extract is in a sufficiently concentrated form to be able to be used without causing the formulation problems usually encountered at the concentrations necessary to obtain activity in cosmetic or dermatological compositions in the form of an emulsion, and without having a dark color, unlike plant extracts obtained by usual processes, when they are in concentrated form.

[0072] In the case of an emulsion, it can be a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion.

[0073] In particular, after evaporation of the ethanol, the extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata comprises 5 to 15% by weight of dry extract of Plantago lanceolata and the remainder of 1,3-propanediol, and preferably, approximately 10% by weight of dry extract of Plantago lanceolata and 90% by weight of 1,3-propanediol.

[0074] Therefore, the extract according to the invention can be used directly for the preparation of a cosmetic composition.

[0075] According to another aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, according to the invention, as a soothing active ingredient.

[0076] According to another aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, according to the invention, for improving hydration and / or improving the barrier function.

[0077] According to yet another aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata according to the invention, for strengthening the barrier and hydration function or as a soothing agent.

[0078] By "cosmetic" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a non-pharmaceutical, non-therapeutic use, which is not intended for therapeutic use, nor to prevent or treat symptoms linked to a therapeutic condition of the skin.

[0079] Indeed, advantageously, the Applicant has found that the alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata according to the invention possesses several activities of interest with regard to preventive or restorative physiological mechanisms linked to the skin barrier function and hydration or inflammation.

[0080] The Applicant has in particular found, advantageously, that the alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata according to the invention allowed an increase in the expression of markers of epidermal differentiation such as SPRR, CNFN, LCE3D, SBSN, FLG1 as well as more specific markers of desmosomes such as CDSN, DSG1 or tight junctions such as CLDN72. AQP9 is also a gene involved in maintaining good skin hydration3. Indeed, through its ability to stimulate targets involved in epidermal differentiation and water retention in the skin, the extract according to the invention shows cosmetic properties of reinforcing the barrier function and hydration.

[0081] Furthermore, the extract plays a role in regulating skin inflammation and, therefore, is recognized as having soothing cosmetic properties. According to yet another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, an alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata according to the preceding aspects. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is suitable for topical application.

[0082] Preferably, said extract is present in the cosmetic or dermatological composition in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight. Said cosmetic composition may in particular be suitable for topical application.

[0083] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of a care and / or makeup composition for keratin materials, preferably for the face.

[0084] In particular, the composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging skin care composition, in particular for the face.

[0085] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a facial makeup composition, in particular in the form of a foundation, a foundation base or a tinted cream.

[0086] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise a solvent chosen according to the different ingredients and the administration form.

[0087] Examples include water (preferably demineralized water or floral water), an alcohol such as ethanol.

[0088] Said cosmetic composition may also comprise, in addition to the extract according to the invention, at least one additive customary in the field, such as for example at least one compound chosen from an emollient or humectant agent, a gelling and / or thickening agent, a surfactant, an oil, an active agent, a colorant, a preservative, an antioxidant agent, an active agent, an organic or inorganic powder, a sunscreen and a perfume.

[0089] - One or more humectant(s), such as polyols (glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol), sugars, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid and its salts and esters; and polyquaterniums. Said humectant will be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 30%, preferably 0.005 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0090] - One or more emollient agent(s) which may be chosen for example from esters such as jojoba esters, fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters (octyldodecyl myristate, triethylhexanoin, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Isostearyl isostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride), butters such as shea butter (butyrospemum parkii butter extract, shea butter ethyl esters) or moringa butter (moringa oil / hydrogcnatcd moringa oil esters), waxes (acacia decurrens flower wax & helianthus annuus cera seed wax, Cl 0-18 triglycerides), vegetable oils, phytosqualane, alkanes (undecane, tridecane)

[0091] Said emollient agent will be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 30%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0092] - One or more gelling and / or thickening agents of the aqueous phase, chosen for example from cellulose derivatives, gums of plant origin (guar, carob, alginates, carrageenans, pectins), of microbial origin (xanthan), clays (laponite), homo- and copolymers, crosslinked or not, hydrophilic or amphiphilic, of acryloylmethylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) and / or acrylamide and / or acrylic acid and / or salts or esters of acrylic acid (such as Ammonium AMP / VP Copolymer, Hydroxy ethyl Acrylate / AMPS Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / AMPS Copolymer, Acrylamide / AMPS Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, sodium polyacrylate)

[0093] Said gelling and / or thickening agent will be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0094] - One or more surfactant(s), in particular:

[0095] *anionic surfactants such as isethionates, taurates, sarcosinates, glycinates, glutamates, phosphates such as C20-22 alkyl phosphate

[0096] * amphoteric surfactants such as betaine derivatives, amphoacetates

[0097] * non-ionic surfactants such as polyglycerol derivatives, glucoside derivatives (such as cetearyl glucoside, cl2-20 alkyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside), xyloside derivatives, lecithins. Said surfactant will be present in a content of the order of 0.1 to 15%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0098] - One or more film-forming agent(s) such as polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, gum arabic (ACACIA SENEGAL GUM), dammars, elemis, copals, cellulose polymers, polymers extracted from the eight of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or the algae Kappaphycus alvarezii, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Said film-forming agent will be present in a content of the order of 0.1 to 15%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] - One or more coloring agent(s) chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, soluble dyes, preferably soluble in water. The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. The mineral pigments may be chosen from zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, titanium dioxide. The pearlescent agents may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0101] Said coloring agent will be present in a content of the order of 0.01 to 20%, preferably 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] - One or more filler(s) chosen from lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride and silica

[0103] Said filler will be present in a content of the order of 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] -One or more active agent(s) of natural, biotechnological or synthetic origin having biological activity and having effectiveness on the skin via biological sites, for example chosen from vitamins such as vitamin C and its derivatives (ascorbyl glucoside, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin B3 or Niacinamide, panthenol, trace elements, allantoin, adenosine, peptides (Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5), plant extracts (glycyrrhiza glabra extract, centella asiatica leaf extract, secale cereale seed extract), yeast extracts, alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid or lactic acid, tranexamic acid and its derivatives such as cetyl tranexamic ester etc.

[0105] Said active agent will be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 10% by total weight of the composition.

[0106] Other additives usually used in cosmetics may also be present in the composition according to the invention, in particular preservatives, antioxidant agents or perfumes well known in the technical field.

[0107] The person skilled in the art is able to choose, from among all of these possible additives, both the nature and the quantity of those which will be added to the composition, so that the latter retains all of its properties.

[0108] The invention is illustrated in a non-limiting manner by the examples below.

[0109] Example 1: Preparation of an alcoholic extract of the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, according to the invention

[0110] An alcoholic extract of the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, according to the invention, is prepared by a process comprising the following steps: a) grinding 1000g of the dried aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata into powder b) Extraction of the powder in 8300g of 96° ethanol with stirring at 60°C for 2 hours;

[0111] - Sieving of mixture 1 obtained at 50 um: filtrate 1 is set aside and the dregs are recovered for a new extraction;

[0112] - Extraction of the dregs in 5350g of 96° ethanol with stirring at 60°C for 2 hours

[0113] - Sieving of mixture 2 obtained at 50um: filtrate 2 is recovered and the dregs are discarded; c) The mixture formed by filtrates 1 and 2; Filtration of the supernatant at 4um;

[0114] - Decolorization of the filtrate obtained for 3 hours at room temperature with stirring; decolorization is carried out by adding 30% by mass of activated carbon relative to the dry mass of extract; - Filtration on membranes at 4um: elimination of the activated carbon; d) The filtrate thus obtained is concentrated by evaporation of the ethanol to obtain a concentrated mixture with a dry matter between 10% and 11% e) Addition of 990 g of 1,3-propanediol to obtain a mixture with 10% dry matter

[0115] - Complete evaporation of ethanol using a scraped film evaporator (final ethanol concentration less than 0.5%).

[0116] - Final filtration at 4um.

[0117] 1075g of final extract are obtained.

[0118] The extract obtained contains aucubin 7.6% by weight, catalpol 29% by weight and verbascoside 11% by weight, glucose 3% by weight, sucrose 3% by weight and sorbitol 24% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

[0119] Example 2: Modulation of the expression of genes involved in barrier function and inflammation in normal human keratinocytes treated with the extract.

[0120] Protocol: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes from three different donors were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in keratinocyte-SFM (k-SFM) supplemented medium for 48 hours at 37°C and 5% CO2. The cells were then incubated with or without (untreated condition) 0.03% extract for 24 hours. Each condition was performed in duplicate. Total RNA was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the protocol recommended by the supplier. Complementary DNA was synthesized and a transcriptome was performed on an Affymetrix GeneChip Human Transcriptome Array 2.0 chip. Bioinformatics analysis of genes whose expression is modulated by at least a factor of 2 was performed with Ingenuity Pathway Analysis software (IP A®, QIAGEN).

[0121] Results: The biological pathways significantly stimulated by the extract according to the invention are mainly related to the skin barrier function. In particular, it stimulates markers of epidermal differentiation such as SPRR, CNFN, LCE3D, SBSN, FLG1 as well as more specific markers of desmosomes such as CDSN, DSG1 or tight junctions such as CLDN72. AQP9 is also a gene involved in maintaining good skin hydration3. The genes involved in strengthening the skin physical barrier as well as their level of stimulation by the extract according to the invention versus untreated control (expression level > 2) are reported in Table I.

[0122] Table I: List of genes involved in strengthening the barrier function whose expression is increased by the extract according to the invention Through its ability to stimulate targets involved in epidermal differentiation and water retention in the skin, the extract according to the invention shows cosmetic properties of reinforcing the barrier function and hydration.

[0123] On the other hand, as shown in Table II, the extract inhibits the biological pathways of neuroinflammation and that of interferons, immunomodulatory cytokines known for their regulatory role in skin inflammation4. It also decreases the expression of interleukin 33 (IL33) and CXCL14, respectively a cytokine and a chemokine also involved in skin inflammation.

[0124] Table II: List of genes involved in inflammatory pathways whose expression is reduced by Plantago extract.

[0125] Through its ability to inhibit the expression of various genes involved in skin inflammation, Plantago extract has soothing cosmetic potential.

[0126] Example 3: Stabilization of cutaneous mast cells in explants, stressed or not, treated with the extract according to the invention.

[0127] Protocol: Human skin explants were maintained in survival mode in an adapted medium at 37°C and 5% CO2. Twenty-four hours after culturing, they were incubated with or without (untreated condition) 0.025% extract for 24 hours, then stressed with compound 48 / 80 triggering mast cell degranulation and treated again for 24 hours with the extract. Each condition was performed in triplicate. Supernatants were collected before stimulation with compound 48 / 80 to measure basal histamine release and 24 hours after to observe the effect of the extract after mast cell stimulation.

[0128] Results: Mast cells are sentinel immune cells found in tissues in direct contact with the environment, such as the skin. They contain granules full of pro-inflammatory molecules such as histamine. When mast cells receive stressful stimuli from the environment, they degranulate, i.e., they release the contents of their granules, which can generate a feeling of discomfort on the skin's surface, or even inflammation.

[0129] As shown in Figure 1, the extract according to the invention is capable of reducing the release of histamine by mast cells in both basal and stressed conditions. This is due to the fact, as shown in Figure 2, that the extract is capable of reducing the number of mast cells that have degranulated.

[0130] By stabilizing mast cells which thus release less histamine, the extract according to the invention has soothing cosmetic properties. Example 4: cosmetic compositions

[0131] The following compositions can be prepared in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art. The quantities indicated below are expressed as percentages by weight. The ingredients in capital letters are identified in accordance with the INCI name.

[0132] A - fluid oil / water emulsion

[0133] b - oil / water cream emulsion

[0134]

[0135] These compositions can be applied every day, morning and / or evening, to the skin.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Alcoholic extract of the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, comprising at least aucubin, catalpol and verbascoside.

2. Alcoholic extract of the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata according to claim 1, comprising: 10 to 50% by weight of sugars and sorbitol, preferably 20 to 40% by weight, 1 to 10% by weight of aucubin, preferably 6 to 9% by weight, 20 to 40% by weight of catalpol, preferably 25 to 35% by weight, and 5 to 15% by weight of verbascoside, preferably 10 to 12% by weight, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

3. Alcoholic extract of the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the sugars comprise glucose and sucrose, preferably 1 to 7% by weight of glucose and 1 to 7% by weight of sucrose, the percentages being expressed by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract.

4. Process for extracting the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, comprising the following steps: a) grinding the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, b) at least one, preferably at least two extractions of said ground aerial parts in the presence of a first mono-alcoholic solvent, each extraction being followed by a filtration step; c) mixing the liquid filtrates from the extractions of step b); and filtration of the mixture obtained and, optionally, decolorization of the filtrate obtained by adoption on activated carbon; d) concentrating the mixture obtained in step c), to obtain an extract having a dry matter content of between 8% and 13%, the remainder of the extract being composed of the first mono-alcoholic solvent; e) adding a second alcoholic solvent to the concentrated extract obtained in step d), said second alcoholic solvent being different from the first mono-alcoholic solvent used in step b), followed by removal of the first mono-alcoholic solvent to a final concentration of less than 0.5%; and optionally filtering the extract obtained.

5. Method according to claim 4, characterized in that the aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata used in step a) are dried aerial parts chosen from flowers, leaves, stems and mixtures thereof.

6. Process according to any one of claims 4 or 5, characterized in that the first mono-alcoholic solvent of step b) is a mono-alcohol comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.

7. Method according to any one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that the extractions of step b) are carried out for a period of between 1 and 6 hours, preferably between 1 and 3 hours, at a temperature of between 40°C and 80°C, preferably between 50 and 70°C.

8. Method according to any one of claims 4 to 7, characterized in that each extraction of step b) is followed by filtration on a 50um sieve and / or in that the filtration of the extract obtained in c) carried out in step d) is carried out on a 4um sieve or filtration membrane.

9. Method according to any one of claims 4 to 8, characterized in that, between steps c) and d), a step of decolorization of the filtrate obtained in c) is added, preferably by adsorption on activated carbon, followed by a step of filtration of the decolorized filtrate obtained, preferably on a 4um sieve or filtration membrane.

10. Method according to any one of claims 4 to 9, characterized in that the elimination of step d) is done by evaporation, then the addition of the second alcoholic solvent is carried out in 1,3-propanediol.

11. Alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata, characterized in that it can be obtained by a process according to any one of claims 4 to 10.

12. Cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata according to any one of claims 1 to 3, as a soothing active ingredient.

13. Cosmetic use of an alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata according to any one of claims 1 to 3, to improve hydration and / or improve the barrier function.

14. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, an alcoholic extract of aerial parts of Plantago lanceolata according to any one of claims 1 to 3.

15. Cosmetic composition according to claim 14 characterized in that it is suitable for topical application.

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