Cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of peptides

Abstract

In order to improve the appearance of the skin, a cosmetic composition is provided comprising a tripeptide, a tetrapeptide, and a pentapeptide, wherein the tripeptide is Gly-His- Lys, the tetrapeptide is Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, and the pentapeptide is Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser-Thr, or analogues or derivatives thereof.

Description

[0001] Cosmetic a mixture of

[0002] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions and personal care products.

[0003] Background

[0004] Skin changes are among the most visible signs of ageing. Intrinsic or chronological ageing is caused by internal physiological factors and is an inherent degenerative process due to declining physiologic functions and capacities, e.g. diminished or defective synthesis of collagen and elastin. On the other hand, extrinsic ageing is the result of exposure of the skin to external factors, such as atmospheric pollution, sun exposure, nutrition and mechanical stress. Together, intrinsic and extrinsic ageing results in visible signs of skin aging and damage, such as lines and wrinkles, thinning of the skin, and a reduced moisture content and elasticity.

[0005] Many cosmetic products have been developed to improve the appearance of the skin by preventing or reducing the features associated with aged skin. Such products contain e.g. retinoids, flavonoids and / or alpha and beta-hydroxy acids. However, these ingredients also come with their respective issues, such as stability (retinoids and flavonoids), skin irritation (retinoids, alpha and beta-hydroxy acids). Therefore, there remains however a need for new compositions for improving the appearance of the skin.

[0006] The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising a tripeptide, a tetrapeptide, and a pentapeptide, wherein the tripeptide is Gly-His-Lys (SEQ ID NO: 1), the tetrapeptide is Gly-GIn-Pro-Arg (SEQ ID NO: 2), and the pentapeptide is Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser- Thr (SEQ ID NO: 3), or analogues or derivatives of the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys, the tetrapeptide Gly-GIn-Pro-Arg, and / or the pentapeptide Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser-Thr.

[0007] It has been found that such a cosmetic composition significantly improves the appearance of the skin. The skin had a significantly higher moisture content and elasticity as measured using a Corneometer and Elastimeter, respectively. Furthermore, also the perceived skin elasticity, skin tightening and skin smoothness improved, as evident from the satisfaction rates of > 85%. Detailed description

[0008] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising a tripeptide, a tetrapeptide and a pentapeptide. The tripeptide is Gly-His-Lys (SEQ ID NO: 1) or an analogue or derivative thereof. The tetrapeptide is Gly-GIn-Pro-Arg (SEQ ID NO: 2) or an analogue or derivative thereof. The pentapeptide is Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser-Thr (SEQ ID NO: 3) or an analogue or derivative thereof.

[0009] The term “cosmetic composition” refers to a composition that can be used for cosmetic purposes or as a basis for delivery of one or more active ingredients. The cosmetic composition typically comprises a dermatologically acceptable carrier.

[0010] Peptides are short strings of amino acid residues, comprising e.g. three residues (tripeptide), four residues (tetrapeptide), or five residues (pentapeptide). The peptide sequences are indicated from the N-terminal residue (leftmost residue) to the C-terminal residue (rightmost residue), and the conventional three-letter abbreviations are used to indicate the individual amino acids forming the sequence: “Gly” indicates a glycine residue, “His” indicates a histidine residue, “Lys” indicates a lysine residue, “Gin” indicates a glutamine residue, “Pro” indicates a proline residue, “Arg” indicates an arginine residue, “Glu” indicates a glutamic acid residue, “Leu” indicates a leucine residue, “Ser” indicates a serine residue, and “Thr” indicates a threonine residue. The amino acids are preferably present in the natural L- configuration.

[0011] In here, “tripeptide” refers to the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys, analogues and derivatives thereof. “Tetrapeptide” refers to Gly-GIn-Pro-Arg, analogues or derivatives thereof. “Pentapeptide refers to Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser-Thr, analogues or derivatives thereof.

[0012] An analogue is a variant of a peptide in which one or more amino acid residues of the peptide are reorganized or rearranged within the sequence and / or where no more than two of the amino acids are substituted. Gly, Pro or Leu can for instance be substituted by another amino acid having an aliphatic side chain, i.e. another amino acid chosen from the group of Gly, Ala, Vai, Leu, Pro or lie. His, Lys and Arg are amino acids having a positively charged side chain. His, Lys and Arg can therefore be substituted by another amino acid chosen from the group of His, Lys or Arg. Gin can for instance be substituted by Asn. Glu can for instance be substituted by Asp. Ser and Thr can for instance be substituted by another amino acid from the group of Ser, Thr and Cys. The pentapeptide may be chosen from Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser-Thr (SEQ ID NO: 3), Arg-Glu-Leu- Thr-SER (SEQ ID NO: 4), Glu-Arg-Leu-Ser-Thr (SEQ ID NO: 5), Thr-Arg-Glu- Leu-Ser (SEQ ID NO: 6), Thr-Arg-Ser-Glu-Leu (SEQ ID NO: 7), Ser-Glu-Leu-Thr-Arg (SEQ ID NO: 8), Ser-Glu-Leu-Arg-Thr (SEQ ID NO: 9) and Leu-Ser-Glu-Arg-Thr (SEQ ID NO: 10).

[0013] A derivative is for instance a covalently modified variant of a peptide. Derivatives include N- acyl-derivatives which comprise an N-terminal acyl group, such as an acetyl group, a palmitoyl group, an elaidoyl group, a myristyl group, a biotinyl group and an octanoyl group.

[0014] All percentages used herein are weight percentages based on the total weight of the composition, unless specified otherwise.

[0015] Surprisingly, it was found that a cosmetic composition comprising the tripeptide, the tetrapeptide and the pentapeptide significantly improved the moisture content and elasticity of the skin. Furthermore, the skin tightening and skin smoothness were perceived to be improved as well. Thus, the composition comprising the tripeptide, the tetrapeptide and the pentapeptide improved the appearance of the skin.

[0016] Preferably at least part of the tripeptide, the tetrapeptide and / or the pentapeptide are an N- terminally palmitoylated derivative of the tripeptide, the tetrapeptide and / or the pentapeptide. A palmitoyl group is derived from the fatty acid palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid comprising 16 carbon atoms. The palmitoyl group enhances the hydrophobicity of the peptide and contributes to membrane-peptide association. Thus, the peptide associated with the palmitoyl group is transferred into the cell more easily. Preferably each of the tripeptide Gly-His-Lys, the tetrapeptide Gly-GIn-Pro-Arg and the pentapeptide Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser-Thr is palmitoylated for the most efficient action of the tripeptide, tetrapeptide and pentapeptide and of the cosmetic composition.

[0017] Preferably at least part of the tripeptide is present as bis(Gly-His-Lys) copper acetate. The copper ion present in the copper acetate salt of the tripeptide can function as a co-factor in a multitude of biochemical reactions involving electron transfer, such as antioxidant defense, cellular respiration and connective tissue formation. In this way it also contributes to a firmer skin having an improved appearance.

[0018] Preferably the composition comprises both N-terminally palmitoylated tripeptide and tripeptide in the form of bis(Gly-His-Lys) copper acetate.

[0019] The cosmetic composition comprises an effective and safe amount of the tripeptide, the tetrapeptide and the pentapeptide. Preferably the tripeptide and / or the tetrapeptide and / or the pentapeptide are present in an amount of 0.0001-0.1 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.0005-0.05 wt.%. The amount of the tripeptide, the tetrapeptide and the pentapeptide can be selected individually. Preferably each of the tripeptide, the tetrapeptide and the pentapeptide are present in an amount of 0.0001-0.1 wt.%. More preferably each of the tripeptide and the pentapeptide is present in an amount of 0.005-0.05 wt.%, and the pentapeptide is present in an amount of 0.00025-0.001 wt.%. Most Preferably the N- terminally palmitoylated tripeptide and the tripeptide in the form of bis(Gly-His-Lys) copper acetate are each present in an amount of 0.0001-0.1 vol-%, more preferably in an amount of 0.0005-0.05 wt.%.

[0020] Preferably the cosmetic composition comprises at least one further active ingredient. An active ingredient is an ingredient contributing to an improvement in the appearance of the skin. Preferably the further active ingredient is selected from an anti-inflammatory ingredient, an antioxidant, an amino acid, a humectant, an emollient, an occlusive, or a combination of two or more thereof.

[0021] The anti-inflammatory ingredient enhances the skin appearance for example by contributing to a more uniform and acceptable skin tone or color. The anti-inflammatory ingredient is especially preferred in a composition that is intended for overnight use, such as a night creme. In this way, the anti-inflammatory ingredient can act for a longer period of time and the skin has more time to recover.

[0022] Preferably the anti-inflammatory ingredient is a natural anti-inflammatory ingredient, i.e. obtainable from a natural source such as a plant, fungus, or as a by-product of a microorganism. The natural anti-inflammatory ingredient is for example candelilla wax, bisabolol (e.g. alpha bisabolol), a plant sterol (e.g. phytosterol), Manjistha (extracted from plants in the genus Rubia, particularly Rubia Cordifolia), and Guggal (extracted from plants in the genus Commiphora, particularly Commiphora Mukul), kola extract, chamomile, red clover extract, Piper methysticum extract, Bacopa monieri extract and sea whip extract, glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhizic acid, rnonoammonium glycyrrhizinate, monopotassium glycyrrhizinate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 1-beta-glycyrrhetic acid, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, and 3- stearyloxy-glycyrrhetinic acid, and disodium 3-succinyloxy-beta-glycyrrhetinate.

[0023] Preferably the anti-inflammatory ingredient comprises Aloe barbadensis extract, Eperua falcata bark extract, or a combination of two or more thereof.

[0024] Aloe barbadensis extract, also known as aloe vera extract, has anti-inflammatory properties and also stimulates the production of collagen. This contributes to a reduction of wrinkles and an improved firmness of the skin. Eperua falcata bark extract has anti-inflammatory properties and improves the skin’s firmness and elasticity.

[0025] Preferably the anti-inflammatory ingredient is present in an amount of 0.01-1 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.05-0.5 wt.%. Preferably the composition comprises Aloe barbadensis extract in an amount of 0.01-1 wt.% and Eperua falcata bark extract in an amount of 0.01-1 wt.%. More preferably the composition comprises Aloe barbadensis extract in an amount of 0.05-0.5 wt.% and Eperua falcata bark extract in an amount of 0.05-0.5 wt.%.

[0026] The antioxidant scavenges radicals, thereby reducing oxidative stress. The antioxidant is for example retinol (vitamin A), niacinamide (vitamin B3), panthenol (vitamin B5), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopheryl acetate, a polyphenol, or a combination of two or more thereof.

[0027] Preferably the cosmetic composition comprises the antioxidant in an amount of 0.0001-0.01 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.0005-0.005 wt.%. Preferably the composition comprises tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate in an amount of 0.0001-0.5 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.0005-0.25 wt.%.

[0028] Amino acids are the building blocks of peptides and proteins such as collagen. Furthermore, they can bind water, thus moisturizing the skin and improving its appearance. Amino acids such as glutamic acid also help to maintain the pH value of the skin.

[0029] Preferably the cosmetic composition comprises at least one amino acid selected from the group consisting of proline, glutamic acid, threonine, valine, arginine, and glycine. Preferably the at least one amino acid is present in an amount of 0.001-0.5 wt.%, preferably in an amount of 0.0025-0.25 wt.%. More preferably the cosmetic composition comprises proline, glutamic acid, threonine, valine, arginine, and glycine in a total amount of 0.05-0.5 wt.%.

[0030] The humectant or moisturizer attracts and binds water, thereby contributing to moisturizing the skin. The humectant is for example glycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, a glycol, urea, a protein or hydrolysed protein, sorbitol, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, maltodextrin, or a combination of two or more thereof. The hydrolysed protein is for example hydrolysed soy protein.

[0031] Preferably the humectant comprises at least one selected from atelocollagen and hyaluronate. More preferably the cosmetic composition comprises atelocollagen and hyaluronate. Atelocollagen and hyaluronate have moisturizing properties, and also act as carriers for the tripeptide, tetrapeptide, and pentapeptide, thus facilitating the uptake of the tripeptide, tetrapeptide, and pentapeptide by the skin.

[0032] Preferably the humectant is present in an amount of 0.001-1 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.01-0.5 wt.%. Preferably the cosmetic composition comprises atelocollagen and hyaluronate in a total amount of 0.05-0.1 wt.%, more preferably in a total amount of 0.01-0.5 wt.%. The emollient prevents or reliefs dryness of the skin by filling gaps between skin cells and providing lipids. The emollient is for example a ceramide, squalene, stearic acid, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl isostearate, cocoa butter or olive oil.

[0033] The occlusive prevents unwanted moisture loss and prevents unwanted particles from getting in the pores of the skin by sealing the skin. The occlusive is for example castor oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter (also known as shea butter), lanolin, petrolatum, carnauba wax or synthetic silicone. The castor oil may be hydrogenated.

[0034] Preferably the occlusive comprises at least one selected from castor oil and Butyrospermum parkii. More preferably the cosmetic composition comprises castor oil and Butyrospermum parkii.

[0035] Preferably the occlusive is present in an amount of 0.05-5 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.1-2.5 wt.%. Preferably the cosmetic composition comprises castor oil and Butyrospermum parkii in a total amount of 0.05-5 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.1- 2.5 wt.%.

[0036] The cosmetic composition may furthermore comprise a further component selected from a solvent, an emulsifier, a thickener, a pH adjusting agent, a preservative, a fragrance, or a combination or two or more thereof.

[0037] The solvent is used to form a solution of the ingredients of the cosmetic composition. The solvent is for example a polar solvent such as water, an apolar solvent such as a vegetable or animal oil, alcohol, or a combination of two or more thereof. The alcohol may for example be selected from propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, or a combination of two or more thereof. Preferably the cosmetic composition comprises water, 1 ,3-butylene glycol and pentylene glycol. Most preferably the cosmetic composition is an aqueous composition. “Aqueous” as it is used here means that the cosmetic composition comprises at least 50 wt.% water, preferably at least 60 wt.%, more preferably at least 70 wt.% and most preferably at least 75 wt.%.

[0038] The emulsifier facilitates blending of a polar and an apolar phase. Therefore, the cosmetic composition preferably comprises an emulsifier if the composition comprises a polar and an apolar solvent. The emulsifier is for example a polysorbate such as polysorbate 20, lauryl alcohol, cetyl sulfate, lecithin, or a combination of two or more thereof.

[0039] The thickener is for example a carboxylic acid polymer, crosslinked polyacrylate polymer, polyacrylamide polymer, polysaccharide, gum, or a combination of two or more thereof. Carboxylic acid polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyhydric alcohol. The carboxylic acid polymer is for example a carbomer, a copolymer of C10-30 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their C1-4 alcohol esters, wherein the crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol.

[0040] The crosslinked polyacrylate polymer can be a cationic or nonionic polymer. Preferably the crosslinked polyacrylate polymer is a cationic polymer.

[0041] The polyacrylamide polymer is for example a nonionic polyacrylamide polymer, such as multi-block copolymer of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids.

[0042] The polysaccharide contains a backbone of repeating sugar or carbohydrate units. The polysaccharide is for example cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and combinations thereof. The polysaccharide may also be an alkyl substituted cellulose, in which the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer are hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with a C10-C30 straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an ether linkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C10-C30 straight or branched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkyl-celluloses. Examples of alkyl groups useful herein include those selected from stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl (i.e. alkyl groups derived from the alcohols of coconut oil), palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, ricinoleyl, behenyl, and combinations of two or more thereof.

[0043] The gum is preferably derived from natural sources. The gum is for example acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, and combinations of two or more thereof. Preferably the gum comprises xanthan gum and pectin.

[0044] The pH adjusting agent regulates the pH of the cosmetic composition. The pH of the cosmetic composition may be adjusted to be compatible with the pH of the skin, e.g. to a pH of 4-7. The pH adjusting agent is for example sodium hydroxide, sodium bicarbonate, citric acid, lactic acid thereof. Citric acid and lactic acid may also be in the form of a salt, such as a sodium or potassium salt. Preferably the cosmetic composition comprises sodium lactate and sodium citrate.

[0045] Preferably the cosmetic composition comprises the pH adjusting agent in an amount of 0.01- 1 wt.%. Preferably the cosmetic composition comprises sodium lactate and sodium citrate in a total amount of 0.01-1 wt.%, more preferably in a total amount of 0.05-0.5 wt.%.

[0046] The preservative reduces the growth of e.g. bacteria in the cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition may be used over a longer period of time. The preservative is for example. Benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, sorbic acid, dehydroacetic acid. Preferably the preservative is chosen from the group of phenoxyethanol, sodium metabisulfite, and leuconostoc / radish root ferment filtrate, and combinations of two or more thereof.

[0047] Preferably the cosmetic composition comprises the preservative in an amount of 0.001-0.5 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.01-0.1 wt.%. Preferably the cosmetic composition comprises phenoxyethanol, sodium metabisulfite, and leuconostoc / radish root ferment filtrate in a total amount of 0.001-0.5 wt.%, more preferably in a total amount of 0.01-0.1 wt.%.

[0048] The fragrance or parfum provides the cosmetic composition with a more pleasant smell. The fragrance is for example linalool, citronellol, cinnamal, limonene, geraniol, eugenol, phenethyl alcohol, an essential oils such as lavender oil, rose oil, cinnamon oil, lemon oil, orange oil, grapefruit oil, or a combination of two or more thereof.

[0049] Preferably the cosmetic composition comprises the fragrance in an amount of 0.05-0.5 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.1-0.25 wt.%.

[0050] Preferably the cosmetic composition is a topical composition, more preferably for application on the skin. The cosmetic composition may for example be a hand cream or body lotion. Preferably the cosmetic composition is a face cream, such as a day cream or a night cream.

[0051] In a second aspect the invention relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition, the method comprising the steps of combining a tripeptide, a tetrapeptide and a pentapeptide in an aqueous medium, wherein the tripeptide is Gly-His-Lys (SEQ ID NO: 1), the tetrapeptide is Gly-GIn- Pro-Arg (SEQ ID NO: 2), and the pentapeptide is Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser-Thr (SEQ ID NO: 3), or analogues or derivatives thereof, and mixing the medium until a homogeneous composition is obtained.

[0052] In this way a cosmetic composition is obtained that improves the appearance of the skin. In a third aspect the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising a tripeptide, a tetrapeptide, and a pentapeptide, wherein the tripeptide is Gly-His-Lys (SEQ ID NO: 1), the tetrapeptide is Gly-GIn-Pro-Arg (SEQ ID NO: 2), and the pentapeptide is Arg-Glu- Leu-Ser-Thr (SEQ ID NO: 3), or analogues or derivatives thereof, for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment to improve a condition of the skin. Preferably the condition of the skin is a moisture content or elasticity.

[0053] Preferably the use of the cosmetic composition comprising the tripeptide, the tetrapeptide and the pentapeptide is preceded by a use of a peeling. The peeling removes dead skin cells and stimulates the growth of new cells. After the peeling, the cosmetic composition comprising the tripeptide, the tetrapeptide and the pentapeptide can be better taken up by the skin. Especially when the cosmetic composition comprising the tripeptide, the tetrapeptide and the pentapeptide comprises an further active ingredient such as an antiinflammatory ingredient and / or the composition is used over-night, such as in case of a night cream, the use of a peeling before the use of the cosmetic composition is beneficial.

[0054] Because of the peeling, the tripeptide, tetrapeptide, pentapeptide, and optional further active ingredient of the cosmetic composition can act on the skin over a longer period of time, thus contributing to an improvement of the skin’s appearance.

[0055] Preferably the peeling comprises an acid, a protease, or a combination thereof. The acid loosens up dead skin cells, facilitating their removal and exposing fresh cells to improve the appearance of the skin. The protease breaks cell to cell interaction, thereby facilitating the removing of dead skin cells.

[0056] The acid is for example an alpha hydroxy acid such as malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, or a combination of two or more thereof, or a beta hydroxy acid such as salicylic acid. The acid is preferably selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, or a combination of two or more thereof. The acid is preferably present in the peeling in an amount of 0.0001-20 wt.%, more preferably 0.0005-15 wt.%.

[0057] The protease is for example ficain. The protease is preferably selected from papain and bromelain. The protease is preferably present in the peeling in an amount of 0.001-1 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.005-0.5 wt.%.

[0058] Most preferably the peeling comprises lactic acid, glycolic acid, and hyaluronic acid in a total amount of 1-20 wt.%, in particular in a total amount of 5-15 wt.%, and papain and bromelain in a total amount of 0.01-0.5 wt.%, in particular in a total amount of 0.025-0.1 wt.%.

[0059] Finally, the invention relates to a method for improving a moisture content and / or elasticity of a skin, the method comprising a step of applying to the skin a cosmetically effective amount of a cosmetic composition comprising a tripeptide, a tetrapeptide, and a pentapeptide, wherein the tripeptide is Gly-His-Lys, the tetrapeptide is Gly-GIn-Pro-Arg, and the pentapeptide is Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser-Thr, or analogues or derivatives thereof.

[0060] Preferably the step of applying to the skin a cosmetically effective amount of the cosmetic composition is preceded by a step of applying a peeling to the skin. The preferences and advantages described for the use of a peeling before the use of the cosmetic composition comprising the tripeptide, the tetrapeptide and the pentapeptide also apply for the step of applying a peeling to the skin before the step applying to the skin a cosmetically effective amount of the cosmetic composition in the method for improving the moisture content and / or elasticity of the skin.

[0061] As will be evident to the skilled person, preferences described for different aspects of the present invention can be combined unless they are mutually exclusive.

[0062] The following examples will illustrate the practice of the present invention in some of the preferred embodiments. Other embodiments within the scope of the claims will be apparent to one skilled in the art.

[0063] Examples

[0064] 1. Preparation of the composition

[0065] Day cream composition

[0066] A first homogenous phase was prepared comprising H2O, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, panthenol, Aloe barbadensis extract, and bis(Gly-His-Lys) copper acetate.

[0067] A second homogenous phase was prepared comprising pentylene glycol, xanthan gum, and pectin.

[0068] A third homogenous phase was prepared comprising PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, tocopheryl acetate, arginine, glycine, and proline.

[0069] A fourth homogenous phase was prepared comprising H2O and sodium lactate.

[0070] A fifth homogenous phase as prepared comprising H2O, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, carbomer, polysorbate 20, palmitoyl-Gly-GIn-Pro-Arg, palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, sodium citrate, phenoxyethanol, sodium hyaluronate, atelocollagen, hydrolyzed soy protein, leuconostoc / radish root ferment filtrate, glutamic acid, glycoprotein, ethylhexylglycerin, phenoxyethanol, threonine, valine, sodium metabisulfite, Butyrospermum Parkii butter, hydrogenated lecithin, phenethyl alcohol, tocopherol, maltodextrin and Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser-Thr. Phases 2-5 were added one by one to phase 1 to obtain a day cream composition comprising the following constituents:

[0071] Night cream composition

[0072] A first homogenous phase was prepared comprising H2O, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, panthenol, Aloe barbadensis extract, bis(Gly-His-Lys) copper acetate, maltodextrin, and Eperua falcata bark extract.

[0073] A second homogenous phase was prepared comprising pentylene glycol, xanthan gum, and pectin.

[0074] A third homogenous phase was prepared comprising PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, tocopheryl acetate, arginine, glycine, proline, and bisabolol.

[0075] A fourth homogenous phase was prepared comprising H2O and sodium lactate.

[0076] A fifth homogenous phase as prepared comprising H2O, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, carbomer, polysorbate 20, palmitoyl-Gly-GIn-Pro-Arg, palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys, sodium citrate, phenoxyethanol, sodium hyaluronate, atelocollagen, hydrolyzed soy protein, leuconostoc / radish root ferment filtrate, glutamic acid, glycoprotein, ethylhexylglycerin, phenoxyethanol, threonine, valine, sodium metabisulfite, lactis proteinum, phospholipids, sodium dehydroacetate, Butyrospermum Parkii butter, hydrogenated lecithin, phenethyl alcohol, tocopherol, maltodextrin and Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser-Thr.

[0077] Phases 2-5 were added one by one to phase 1 to obtain a night cream composition comprising the following constituents: 2. Clinical study

[0078] Study design

[0079] A number of 30 female volunteers between 34 and 65 years old were recruited to test the effect of the day cream composition and night cream composition according to example 1. The volunteers were provided with the day cream composition and night cream composition as described in example 1 , as well as a peeling with the following composition:

[0080] The volunteers received the following instructions:

[0081] Use a mild cleansing soap.

[0082] - Avoid the use of any other cosmetic products as well as the intense sun exposure or solarium.

[0083] - Apply the day cream (1-2 pumps) every morning on clean and dry skin.

[0084] - Apply the peeling (1-2 pumps) on damp skin, leave it for 10 minutes and rinse with warm water. Avoid the eye area. Use the peeling 3 times per week during the first two weeks, and daily after the first two weeks. Apply the night serum after use of the peeling.

[0085] - Apply the night cream (1-2 pumps) every night on clean and dry skin

[0086] For measurement days the following protocol was followed:

[0087] The last application before each measurement was performed the night before.

[0088] Prior to any measurement, the volunteers stayed seated in a room at a controlled environment at 22°C for twenty minutes for acclimatization.

[0089] The face was cleansed just before each session and dried with a lint-free towel.

[0090] Measurements and clinical evaluation took place on the 1st day of the study (before product use) and 12 weeks after the initiation of the study. Measurements of day 1 were the reference or baseline measurements.

[0091] Methodology

[0092] Wrinkles: To capture and evaluate skin’s wrinkles Canfield’s VISIA system was used. The VISIA system consists of the VISIA imaging booth and VISIA software and can capture and store facial images using standard lighting, cross-polarized flash, and UV flash. After capturing images, the software automatically isolates or “masks” specific areas of the face and then performs an extensive analysis of these areas to evaluate skin features such as wrinkles. The results are shown as absolute scores, characterizing the total size, area and intensity of the skin features and therefore provide a comprehensive measurement of the impact that the wrinkles have on the volunteer’s complexion.

[0093] Skin moisture:

[0094] Skin’s moisture was measured using Courage + Khazaka’s Corneometer® CM 825, based on a capacitance method. The measurement is based on the completely different dielectric constant of water (81) and other substances (mostly <7). The measuring capacitor shows changes of capacitance according to the moisture content of the samples. A glass lamina separates the metallic tracks in the probe head from the skin in order to prevent current conduction in the sample. An electric field between the tracks with alternating attraction develops. One track builds up a surplus of electrons the other a lack of electrons. The scatterfield penetrates the very first layer of the skin during the measurement and the capacitance is determined. The Corneometer CM 825® measurement values are arbitrary units. The higher the measured value, the higher the moisture content. The values obtained were then statistically assessed using the t-test.

[0095] Skin elasticity:

[0096] The elasticity measurements were taken on face skin (right and left malar area) using Delfin’s Elastimeter. The ElastiMeter utilizes an indenter, a reference plate and built-in force sensors. The probe head is briefly pressed against the skin. The indenter imposes a constant deformation when the reference plate is in full contact with the skin. The skin resists the deformation and the instant skin elasticity (ISE) is determined. The ISE reading that the instrument provides is the mean of 5 consecutive measurements on the same site. The results are shown as average values of the right and left area. The values obtained were then statistically assessed using the one-tailed t-test.

[0097] Satisfaction rate:

[0098] The volunteers were asked to evaluate the products regarding the following questions (Q 1- 3), according to a scale from 1 to 5 where:

[0099] 1- Completely disagree

[0100] 2- Disagree 3- Neither agree nor disagree

[0101] 4- Agree

[0102] 5- Completely agree

[0103] Q 1 - Does the product improve skin’s elasticity?

[0104] Q 2 - Does the product improve skin’s tightening?

[0105] Q 3 - Does the product increase skin’s smoothness?

[0106] The volunteers’ satisfaction rate was calculated using the algorithm:

[0107] {[Z (number of volunteers x assessment)] / maximum rate} %.

[0108] For example (for a panel of 20 volunteers and the above mentioned 1-5 grading scale): if 18 volunteers assessed one Question with 5 and 2 volunteers with 3 then the satisfaction rate will be {[(5x18)+(3x2)] / 100}%=96% rate of satisfaction.

[0109] Results

[0110] The results obtained for the absolute wrinkle score, skin moisture and skin elasticity are shown in Table 1.

[0111] - Table 1. Absolute winkle score skin moisture and skin elasticity before use of the day and night cream composition and after 12 weeks of applying the day and night cream composition. The results are presented as the average results of the 30 volunteers. * indicates p <0.05 in the one-tailed t-test.

[0112] As can be seen in Table 1 , the skin’s moisture and elasticity improved significantly after 12 weeks of use of the day and night cream compositions.

[0113] Satisfaction rate: - Table 2. Volunteer’s satisfaction rate. The satisfaction rate was calculated as {[ (number of volunteers x assessment)] / maximum rate} %.

[0114] As can be seen in Table 2, the volunteers were highly satisfied with both the day and the night cream compositions.

Claims

Claims1. Cosmetic composition comprising a tripeptide, a tetrapeptide, and a pentapeptide, wherein the tripeptide is Gly-His-Lys (SEQ ID NO: 1), the tetrapeptide is Gly-GIn-Pro- Arg (SEQ ID NO: 2), and the pentapeptide is Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser-Thr (SEQ ID NO: 3), or analogues or derivatives thereof, wherein the tripeptide and / or the tetrapeptide and / or the pentapeptide is present in an amount of 0.0001-0.1 wt.%.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , wherein at least part of the tripeptide and / or the tetrapeptide and / or the pentapeptide is N-terminally palmitoylated.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any of the previous claims, wherein at least part of the tripeptide is present as bis(Gly-His-Lys) copper acetate.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any of the previous claims, wherein the pentapeptide is chosen from Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser-Thr (SEQ ID NO: 3), Arg-Glu-Leu- Thr- SER (SEQ ID NO: 4), Glu-Arg-Leu-Ser-Thr (SEQ ID NO: 5), Thr-Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser (SEQ ID NO: 6), Thr-Arg-Ser-Glu-Leu (SEQ ID NO: 7), Ser-Glu-Leu-Thr-Arg (SEQ ID NO: 8), Ser-Glu-Leu-Arg-Thr (SEQ ID NO: 9) and Leu-Ser-Glu-Arg-Thr (SEQ ID NO: 10).

5. Cosmetic composition according to any of the previous claims, further comprising an anti-inflammatory ingredient, the anti-inflammatory ingredient preferably comprising Aloe barbadensis extract, Eperua falcata bark extract, or a combination thereof, and wherein the anti-inflammatory ingredient is preferably present in an amount of 0.01-1 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.05-0.5 wt.%.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any of the previous claims, further comprising an antioxidant, the antioxidant preferably comprising tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate, and wherein the antioxidant is preferably present in an amount of 0.0001-0.01 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.0005-0.005 wt.%.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any of the previous claims, further comprising at least one amino acid selected from the group consisting of proline, glutamic acid,threonine, valine, arginine, and glycine, preferably proline, glutamic acid, threonine, valine, arginine, and glycine, and wherein the at least one amino acid is preferably present in an amount of 0.001-0.5 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.0025-0.25 wt.%.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any of the previous claims, further comprising a humectant, the humectant preferably comprising at least one selected from atelocollagen and hyaluronate, and wherein the humectant is preferably present in an amount of 0.001-1 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.01-0.5 wt.%.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any of the previous claims, further comprising an occlusive, the occlusive preferably comprising at least one of castor oil and Butyrospermum parkii, and wherein the occlusive is preferably present in an amount of 0.05-5 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.1-2.5 wt.%.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any of the previous claims, wherein the cosmetic composition is an aqueous composition, and / or wherein the cosmetic composition is a topical composition.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any of the previous claims, wherein the cosmetic composition is for application on the skin, more preferably for application on the face.

12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 11 , wherein the cosmetic composition is a skin cream, preferably a moisturizing skin cream.

13. Method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1-12, the method comprising the steps of combining a tripeptide, a tetrapeptide and a pentapeptide in an aqueous medium, wherein the tripeptide is Gly-His-Lys (SEQ ID NO: 1), the tetrapeptide is Gly-GIn- Pro-Arg (SEQ ID NO: 2), and the pentapeptide is Arg-Glu-Leu-Ser-Thr (SEQ ID NO: 3), or analogues or derivatives thereof, wherein the tripeptide and / or the tetrapeptide and / or the pentapeptide is present in an amount of 0.0001-0.1 wt.%, and mixing the medium until a homogeneous composition is obtained.

14. Use of the composition according to any of claims 1-12 for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment to improve a condition of the skin, wherein the condition of the skin is preferably a moisture content or elasticity.

15. Use according to claim 14, wherein the use of the composition according to any of claims 1-12 is preceded by a use of a peeling.

16. Method for improving a moisture content and / or elasticity of a skin, the method comprising a step of applying to the skin a cosmetically effective amount of the cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1-12, and wherein the step of applying to the skin a cosmetically effective amount of the cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1-12 is preferably preceded by a step of applying a peeling to the skin.

17. Use according to claim 14 or method according to claim 16, wherein the peeling comprises an acid, a protease, or a combination thereof, and wherein the acid is preferably present in the peeling in an amount of 0.0001-20 wt.%, more preferably 0.0005-15 wt.%, and / or the protease is preferably present in the peeling in an amount of 0.001-1 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.005-0.5 wt.%, and / or wherein the acid is selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, or a combination of two or more thereof, and the protease is selected from papain, bromelain, or a combination thereof.

18. Use or method according to claim 17, wherein the peeling comprises lactic acid, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, papain, and bromelain.

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