Cosmetic composition comprising a synergistic antimicrobial complex

WO2025132038A3PCT designated stage expired Publication Date: 2025-09-04LABES DE BIOLOGIE VEGETALE YVES ROCHER
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/EP2024/086096
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-12-20
Filing Date
2024-12-12
Publication Date
2025-09-04

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Current cosmetic compositions face challenges in effectively preserving against microbial contamination, particularly in products with high water content like lotions and gels, due to limited options for antimicrobial agents that are both effective and safe for consumer health.

Method used

A cosmetic composition comprising a synergistic antimicrobial complex of 1,2-heptanediol combined with an antimicrobial agent selected from methylheptylglycerin, heptylglycerin, hexylglycerin, and others, which provides enhanced preservation capabilities in various cosmetic forms.

Benefits of technology

The synergistic antimicrobial complex achieves a significant preservation effect in cosmetic compositions, allowing for the use of lower percentages of preservatives, thereby reducing potential health impacts and increasing the use of natural origin ingredients, making the preservation system more environmentally friendly.

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Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of preservation, and more particularly the preservation of cosmetic compositions, in particular of cosmetic compositions in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a gel, a free powder, a pressed powder, an encapsulation, a solution for a wipe, a micellar water, an aqueous solution, a dispersion, a solid (for example cast, extruded or pressed) formulation or a lotion. The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising 1,2-heptanediol and an antimicrobial agent chosen from a glycerol derivative, an organic acid, a glycol (different from 1,2-heptanediol), a hydroxyphenyl derivative, a proline derivative, a terpene derivative and a sorbitol derivative. The invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, for preventing or stopping the proliferation of microorganisms, preferably in cosmetic formulations.
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Description

[0001] Description

[0002] Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SYNERGISTIC ANTIMICROBIAL COMPLEX

[0003] [1] The invention belongs to the field of preservation, and more particularly to the preservation of cosmetic compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a gel, a loose powder, a pressed powder, an encapsulation, a wipe solution, micellar water, an aqueous solution, a dispersion, a solid formulation (for example cast, extruded or pressed) or a lotion.

[0004] [2] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising 1,2-heptanediol and an antimicrobial agent chosen from a glycerin derivative, an organic acid, a glycol (different from 1,2-heptanediol), a hydroxyphenyl derivative, a proline derivative, a terpene derivative and a sorbitol derivative. The invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, for preventing or stopping the proliferation of microorganisms, preferably in cosmetic formulations.

[0005] [3] Preservation against microbial contamination of cosmetic products is a regulatory obligation and a major health issue for consumers. The list of ingredients with antimicrobial activity that can be used to preserve products is limited. These restrictions on the variety of ingredients mean that to date, many of these ingredients are criticized because of their possible impact on human health (salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, MIT, i.e., halogenated derivatives such as dichlorobenzyl alcohol or triclosan). There is therefore a need. This innovation leads to finding a new preservation solution, preferably of natural origin, which meets the new demands of consumers.

[0006] [4] Known compositions generally include antimicrobial agents to counteract microbial contamination that occurs during consumer use and whose growth may be facilitated by unrefrigerated storage conditions. [5] For certain applications, particularly cosmetic products with a high water content, such as lotions, gels or emulsions, preservation is all the more complicated as the environment is very favorable to the development of microorganisms. This type of product may require the addition of an antimicrobial agent.

[0007] [6] There is thus a need to provide new compositions that solve the problems observed in known cosmetic compositions. In particular, there is a need to provide a new cocktail of compounds, having a synergistic effect on the preservation of cosmetic compositions, which can be integrated into a whole range of cosmetic compositions such as compositions in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a gel, a loose powder, a pressed powder, an encapsulation, a wipe solution, a micellar water, an aqueous solution, a dispersion, a solid formulation (e.g., cast, extruded or pressed) or a lotion.

[0008] [7] It is to the applicant's credit to propose a novel composition comprising a combination of 1,2-heptanediol and an antimicrobial agent selected from a glycerin derivative, an organic acid, a glycol (different from 1,2-heptanediol), a hydroxyphenyl derivative, a proline derivative, a terpene derivative and a sorbitol derivative. The composition may comprise a combination of 1,2-heptanediol and an antimicrobial agent selected from methylheptylglycerin, heptylglycerin, hexylglycerin, sorbitan caprylate, phenethyl alcohol, 4-terpineol, cinnamic acid, perillic acid, caprylyl glyceryl ether, sodium caproyl prolinate, glyceryl undecylenate, hinokitiol, Zinc PCA and sodium lauroyl lactylate. The novel combination according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a synergistic effect on the preservation of numerous cosmetic compositions.A "synergistic effect" is understood to mean an interaction between two or more substances, the combined effect of which is greater than the additive effect of the said substances. In other words, it is possible to use each of the substances at a lower percentage when they are used in combination.

[0009] [8] The combination according to the invention is very versatile and can in particular be incorporated into any type of cosmetic composition. [9] The invention thus relates to a composition comprising 1,2-heptanediol and an antimicrobial agent chosen from methylheptylglycerin, heptylglycerin, hexylglycerin, sorbitan caprylate, phenylethyl alcohol, 4-terpineol, cinnamic acid, perillic acid, caprylyl glyceryl ether, sodium caproyl prolinate, glyceryl undecylenate, hinokitiol, Zinc PCA and sodium lauroyl lactylate.

[0010]

[0010] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition.

[0011]

[0011] Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, the combination of 1,2-heptanediol and an antimicrobial agent chosen from methylheptylglycerin, heptylglycerin, hexylglycerin, sorbitan caprylate, phenylethyl alcohol, 4-terpineol, cinnamic acid, perillic acid, caprylyl glyceryl ether, sodium caproyl prolinate, glyceryl undecylenate, hinokitiol, Zinc PCA and sodium lauroyl lactylate greatly improves the preservation of the composition, in various cosmetic forms.This combination of two raw materials, also referred to as an antimicrobial complex in the present application, can be used in the composition of various cosmetic compositions, such as compositions in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a gel, a loose powder, a pressed powder, an encapsulation, a wipe solution, a micellar water, an aqueous solution, a dispersion, a solid formulation (for example cast, extruded or pressed) or a lotion.

[0012]

[0012] Advantageously, 1,2-heptanediol is a glycol with a C7 carbon chain referenced under the CAS number 3710-31-4. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.3 to 1.5% by mass of heptanediol, relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 1%.

[0013]

[0013] Advantageously, the antimicrobial agent may be chosen from methylheptylglycerin (CAS 182015-50-5), heptylglycerin (CAS 10305-39-2), hexylglycerin (CAS 10305-38-1), sorbitan caprylate (CAS 60177-36-8), phenethyl alcohol (CAS 60-12-8), 4-terpineol (CAS 562-74-3), cinnamic acid (CAS 140-10-3), perillic acid (CAS 7694-45-3), caprylyl glyceryl ether (CAS 10438-94-5), sodium caproyl prolinate (CAS 1364318-34-2), glyceryl undecylenate (CAS 1364318-34-2), hinokitiol (CAS 499-44-5), Zinc PCA (CAS 68107-75-5 / 15454-75-8) and sodium lauroyl lactylate (CAS 13557-75-0). Preferably, the antimicrobial agent is selected from methylheptylglycerin, heptylglycerin, hexylglycerin, cinnamic acid, perillic acid, caprylyl glyceryl ether, sodium caproyl prolinate, glyceryl undecylenate, hinokitiol, Zinc PCA and sodium lauroyl lactylate.More preferably, the antimicrobial agent is chosen from methylheptylglycerin, heptylglycerin and hexylglycerin. The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 3% by mass of antimicrobial agent, relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1.5%.

[0014]

[0014] Advantageously, the mass ratio 1,2-heptanediol / antimicrobial agent can be within a range from 8:1 to 1:1.

[0015]

[0015] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one second antimicrobial agent, different from the antimicrobial agent, and chosen from caprylyl glycol, caprylhydroxamic acid, propanediol caprylate, ethylhexylglycerin, hydroxyacetophenone, glyceryl caprylate, anisic acid, decylene glycol, tropolone, climbazole, sodium lactate, O-cymen-OI, sodium benzoate, farnesol, levulinic acid, propanediol, thymol, bisabolol, parabens, benzyl salicylate, sorbitan caprylate, phenylethyl alcohol, 4-Terpineol, phenylpropanol, menthyl lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1'1 ,2-hexanediol, phenoxyethanol, pentylene glycol, lactobacillus ferment, benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate, cinnamic acid, perillic acid, methylheptylglycerin, heptylglycerin, hexylglycerin, caprylyl glyceryl ether, sodium caproyl prolinate,glyceryl undecylenate, hinokitiol, Zinc PCA, sodium lauroyl lactylate, and mixtures thereof. The antimicrobial agent and the at least one second antimicrobial agent are different. In this embodiment, the antimicrobial complex is therefore a combination of three raw materials.,

[0016]

[0016] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition. The composition according to the invention may thus comprise one or more cosmetic excipients or active ingredients. The cosmetic excipient or active ingredient may be chosen from oils, antioxidants, colorants, solvents, gelling agents, rheological modifiers, opacifiers, chelating agents, cosmetic active ingredients, emulsifiers, solvents, pearlescent agents, colorants, pigments, emollients, humectants, surfactants, conditioning agents and film-forming agents.

[0017]

[0017] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be an emulsion (such as mascara or foundation), and may comprise:

[0018] - from 0.3 to 1.5% of 1,2-heptanediol, preferably from 0.5 to 1%,

[0019] - from 0.01 to 3% of antimicrobial agent, preferably from 0.1 to 1.5%,

[0020] - optionally from 0.01 to 3% of at least one second antimicrobial agent,

[0021] - from 2 to 5% of humectant, preferably chosen from glycerin, butylene glycol, sorbitol and xylitol,

[0022] - from 0.1% to 5% of gelling agent, preferably chosen from xanthan gum, hectorite, carrageenan, starch, alginate, and

[0023] - from 1 to 10% of emulsifier, preferably chosen from methyl glucose stearate, sorbitan sesquioleate and glyceryl stearate, the percentages being given relative to the total mass (100%) of the composition.

[0024]

[0018] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be an emulsion, and the antimicrobial agent may be methylheptylglycerin.

[0025]

[0019] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be an emulsion, and the antimicrobial agent may be heptylglycerin.

[0026]

[0020] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be an emulsion, and the antimicrobial agent may be hexylglycerin.

[0027]

[0021] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be an emulsion, and the antimicrobial agent may be sorbitan caprylate.

[0028]

[0022] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be an emulsion, and the antimicrobial agent may be phenethyl alcohol.

[0029]

[0023] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be an emulsion, and the antimicrobial agent may be 4-terpineol.

[0030]

[0024] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be an emulsion, and the antimicrobial agent may be cinnamic acid

[0025] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be an emulsion, and the antimicrobial agent may be perillic acid.

[0031]

[0026] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be an emulsion, and the antimicrobial agent may be caprylyl glyceryl ether.

[0032]

[0027] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be an emulsion, and the antimicrobial agent may be sodium caproyl prolinate.

[0033]

[0028] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be an emulsion, and the antimicrobial agent may be glyceryl undecylenate.

[0034]

[0029] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be an emulsion, and the antimicrobial agent may be hinokitiol.

[0035]

[0030] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be an emulsion, and the antimicrobial agent may be Zinc PCA.

[0036]

[0031] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be an emulsion, and the antimicrobial agent may be sodium lauroyl lactylate.

[0037]

[0032] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be a gel, and may comprise:

[0038] - from 0.3 to 1.5% of 1,2-heptanediol, preferably from 0.5 to 1%,

[0039] - from 0.01 to 3% of antimicrobial agent, preferably from 0.1 to 1.5%,

[0040] - optionally from 0.01 to 3% of at least one second antimicrobial agent,

[0041] - from 2 to 5% of humectant, preferably chosen from glycerin, butylene glycol, sorbitol and xylitol,

[0042] - from 1 to 10% of surfactants, preferably chosen from sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, the percentages being given relative to the total mass (100%) of the composition.

[0043]

[0033] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be a gel, and the antimicrobial agent may be methylheptylglycerin.

[0044]

[0034] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be a gel, and the antimicrobial agent may be heptylglycerin.

[0035] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be a gel, and the antimicrobial agent may be hexylglycerin.

[0045]

[0036] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be a gel, and the antimicrobial agent may be sorbitan caprylate.

[0046]

[0037] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be a gel, and the antimicrobial agent may be phenylethyl alcohol.

[0047]

[0038] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be a gel, and the antimicrobial agent may be 4-terpineol.

[0048]

[0039] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be a gel, and the antimicrobial agent may be cinnamic acid.

[0049]

[0040] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be a gel, and the antimicrobial agent may be perillic acid.

[0050]

[0041] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be a gel, and the antimicrobial agent may be caprylyl glyceryl ether.

[0051]

[0042] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be a gel, and the antimicrobial agent may be sodium caproyl prolinate.

[0052]

[0043] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be a gel, and the antimicrobial agent may be glyceryl undecylenate.

[0053]

[0044] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be a gel, and the antimicrobial agent may be hinokitiol.

[0054]

[0045] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be a gel, and the antimicrobial agent may be Zinc PCA.

[0055]

[0046] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may be a gel, and the antimicrobial agent may be sodium lauroyl lactylate.

[0056]

[0047] Surprisingly, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain, in particular thanks to the antimicrobial complex according to the invention, a synergistic effect; a preservation system with the use of a lower percentage of the preservative system, which limits the potential impact for consumers. In addition, these preservation systems make it possible to increase the percentage of natural origin for most of the new antimicrobials identified and also make this preservative system more environmentally friendly.

[0057]

[0048] In the present invention, when an interval is given, the bounds are included. For example, for an interval such as "ranging from 1 to 5%", the values ​​1% and 5% are included in the interval.

[0058]

[0049] In the present invention, all percentages (%) are given as a percentage by mass, relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition. In the case of cosmetic compositions such as so-called biphasic compositions or emulsions, the percentages may also be given relative to the total mass of the oily phase or the aqueous phase.

[0059]

[0050] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the antimicrobial composition or complex according to the invention, to prevent or stop the proliferation of microorganisms in a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0060]

[0051] Microorganisms are living organisms smaller than 100 pm that can also be described as pathogenic. These may be bacteria, molds or yeasts. The NF EN ISO 11930 standard, which provides a method for evaluating the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product, details the microbial strains to be tested against cosmetic formulations. The strains in question are the bacteria Escherichia edi, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, the yeast Candida albicans and the mold Aspergillus niger / Aspergillus brasilliensis.

[0061]

[0052] Advantageously, the cosmetic use according to the invention may be a use of the antimicrobial composition or complex according to the invention to prevent or stop the proliferation of bacteria, preferably chosen from Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Escherichia coli.

[0062]

[0053] Advantageously, the cosmetic use according to the invention may be a use of the antimicrobial composition or complex according to the invention to prevent or stop the proliferation of molds and / or yeasts, preferably chosen from Candida albicans, Aspergillus brasiliensis and Aspergillus niger.

[0063]

[0054] The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, in a non-limiting manner.

[0055] Example 1: study of the effectiveness of the antimicrobial complex according to the invention in an emulsion.

[0064]

[0056] The emulsion was made according to conventional techniques. Ingredients 1 to 3 are mixed and heated to 70°C on the one hand to obtain a phase A. On the other hand, ingredients 4 and 5 are heated to 70°C then mixed with stirring with phase B to obtain the emulsion. During the cooling phase, the synergistic antimicrobial or antimicrobials are added according to the tests mentioned below. The pH is then adjusted between 5 and 5.5.

[0065]

[0057] Challenge Test Protocol: The test consists of verifying the formula's ability to preserve itself against microbial contamination. The formula preparation is inoculated with the following microorganisms: P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, E. coli, C. albicans, A. brasiliensis. The preservative properties are considered effective if the reduction of inoculated microorganisms is total within 28 days. [Table 1]

[0066]

[0058] Table 1: Details of compositions, excluding antimicrobials.

[0067] [Table 2]

[0068]

[0059] Table 2: Challenge test results.

[0069]

[0060] Legend table 2:

[0070] *: Witness outside the invention.

[0071] 0: Absence of microbial regression; +: Slow regression; ++: Medium-term regression; +++: Rapid regression; 2 estimate of the result based on related results.

[0072] Bacteria / EC: Escherichia coli; PA: Pseudomonas aeruginosa', SA: Staphylococcus aureus;

[0073] Yeasts - Molds / CA: Candida albicans; AB: Aspergillus brasilliensis.

[0061] The compositions according to the invention have a synergistic effect with regard to their activity on the microorganisms tested. Indeed, each constituent tested alone has incomplete results on one or more strains. For example, 0.8% 1,2-Heptanediol is not very effective on the Candida albicans strain, after aging the product for 1 month at 40°C. On the other hand, 0.4% 4-Terpineol is also not effective on this strain which does not show any regression. When the two antimicrobials are coupled, then a microbial regression is observed on this strain, which makes it possible to obtain a compliant test of the microbial stability of the product.

[0062] This same synergistic effect can be observed on the strains. For example, 0.8% 1,2-Heptanediol shows no regression on the Aspergillus brasilliensis strain.The 0.2% cinnamic acid test also shows no regression on this strain, nor does the 1% glyceryl caprylate test. When the three antimicrobials are coupled, then microbial regression is observed on this strain, which provides a compliant test of the microbial stability of the product.

[0074]

[0063] This synergistic phenomenon is observed on all of the compositions according to the invention presented in the table above.

Claims

Claims

1. A composition comprising 1,2-heptanediol and an antimicrobial agent selected from a glycerin derivative, an organic acid, a glycol (other than 1,2-heptanediol), a hydroxyphenyl derivative, a proline derivative, a terpene derivative and a sorbitol derivative.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim in which the antimicrobial agent is chosen from methylheptylglycerin, heptylglycerin, hexylglycerin, sorbitan caprylate, phenylethyl alcohol, 4-terpineol, cinnamic acid, perillic acid, caprylyl glyceryl ether, sodium caproyl prolinate, glyceryl undecylenate, hinokitiol, Zinc PCA and sodium lauroyl lactylate.

3. Composition according to the preceding claim in which the antimicrobial agent is chosen from methylheptylglycerin, heptylglycerin, hexylglycerin, cinnamic acid, perillic acid, caprylyl glyceryl ether, sodium caproyl prolinate, glyceryl undecylenate, hinokitiol, Zinc PCA and sodium lauroyl lactylate.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amount of 1,2-heptanediol is in a range from 0.3 to 1.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 1%.

5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the amount of antimicrobial agent is in the range of 0.01 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.1 to 1.5%.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the 1,2-heptanediol / antimicrobial agent mass ratio is in the range 8:1 to 1:

1.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising at least one second antimicrobial agent, different from the antimicrobial agent, and selected from caprylyl glycol, caprylhydroxamic acid, propanediol caprylate, ethylhexylglycerin, hydroxyacetophenone, glyceryl caprylate, anisic acid, decylene glycol, tropolone, climbazole, sodium lactate, O- cymen-OI, sodium benzoate, farnesol, levulinic acid, propanediol, thymol, bisabolol, parabens, benzyl salicylate, sorbitan caprylate, phenylethyl alcohol, 4-Terpineol, phenylpropanol, menthyl lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, phenoxyethanol, pentylene glycol, lactobacillus ferment, benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate, cinnamic acid, perillic acid, methylheptylglycerin, heptylglycerin, hexylglycerin, caprylyl glyceryl ether, sodium caproyl prolinate, glyceryl undecylenate, hinokitiol, Zinc PCA, sodium lauroyl lactylate, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising one or more compounds chosen from oils, antioxidants, colorants, solvents, gelling agents, rheological modifiers, opacifiers, chelating agents, cosmetic actives, emulsifiers, solvents, pearlescent agents, colorants, pigments, emollients, humectants, surfactants, conditioning agents and film-forming agents.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim, said composition being in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a gel, a loose powder, a pressed powder, an encapsulation, a wipe solution, a micellar water, an aqueous solution, a dispersion, a solid formulation (e.g. cast, extruded or pressed) or a lotion.

10. Use of a combination according to any one of the preceding claims, for preventing or stopping the proliferation of microorganisms in a cosmetic composition.

11. Use according to the preceding claim for preventing or stopping the proliferation of bacteria, preferably chosen from Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Escherichia coli.

12. Use according to claim 11 for preventing or stopping the proliferation of molds and / or yeasts, preferably chosen from Candida albicans, Aspergillus brasiliensis and Aspergillus niger.

Citation Information

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