Cosmetic composition with enhanced color stability

By combining an emulsifying polymer with a cosmetically acceptable oil vehicle, the cosmetic composition stabilizes substituted resorcinol and retinoic acid precursors, addressing color instability and enhancing anti-aging and even tone benefits.

WO2025140995A1PCT designated stage expired Publication Date: 2025-07-03UNILEVER IP HLDG BV +2
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/EP2024/088056
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-12-29
Filing Date
2024-12-20
Publication Date
2025-07-03

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Cosmetic compositions containing substituted resorcinol and retinoic acid precursors face challenges with color instability due to factors like temperature and oxidation, leading to prominent degradation when used together.

Method used

Incorporating an emulsifying polymer, such as boron nitride or kaolin, with a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil, enhances the color stability of cosmetic compositions by stabilizing the combination of substituted resorcinol and retinoic acid precursors.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves improved color stability, maintaining a color difference (AE) of less than 7.50 after 4 weeks at 45°C, while providing anti-aging and even tone benefits.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

Disclosed herein are personal care compositions. More particularly, disclosed herein is a cosmetic composition containing a substituted resorcinol and a retinoic acid precursor in combination with an emulsifying polymer, an opacifying agent, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil to provide for improved color stability of the composition.
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Description

[0001] COSMETIC COMPOSITION WITH ENHANCED COLOR STABILITY

[0002] Technical Field

[0003] Disclosed herein are personal care compositions. More particularly, disclosed herein is a cosmetic composition containing a substituted resorcinol and a retinoic acid precursor in combination with an emulsifying polymer, an opacifying agent, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil to provide for improved color stability of the composition.

[0004] Background

[0005] Modern definitions of ideal skin presently include youthful and resilient skin having uniform color distribution and smooth texture throughout. However, human skin is subject to deterioration through, for example, dermatological conditions, environmental abuse (wind, air conditioning, sun exposure, pollution, blue light), or chronoaging. Aging individuals increasingly develop facial fine lines, wrinkles, yellowing or sallowness, sagging, hyperpigmentation, age spots and the general signs of aging. Thus, the demand for “anti-aging” or “pre-aging” cosmetic products that address such visible signs has grown greatly.

[0006] Cosmetic compositions featuring retinoic acid precursors, such as retinol, have become quite prominent in recent years. Retinol, a form of vitamin A, and many of its ester derivatives and retinoid family members including, for instance, retinyl propionate, can be effective in reducing fine lines and wrinkles, smoothing skin, and improving uneven skin tone among other benefits when applied topically. Notwithstanding the benefits of retinoids, the inclusion of retinoic acid precursors in cosmetic compositions often results in compositions having difficulties with stability.

[0007] In addition, many people often search, separately or even simultaneously, for cosmetic products providing even skin tone benefits. The industry is currently marked by an ever-present need for cosmetic even tone agents that have enhanced efficaciousness and stability. Examples of such agents include hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid and functionalized heteroaromatic compounds.

[0008] Cosmetic compositions containing even tone agents such as hexylresorcinol have become quite prominent in recent years. However, substituted resorcinol-containing compositions tend to become discolored in response to a variety of factors such as temperature, light, and oxidation. Formulating color stable cosmetic compositions that comprise resorcinols is challenging. The issue of color instability in cosmetic compositions is exacerbated when resorcinols are found in the same composition as retinoic acid precursors, resulting in more prominent degradation of color when compared to compositions with each skin benefit agent independently. Thus, the color instability of cosmetic compositions with substituted resorcinols and retinoic acid precursors poses even further a challenge to be overcome.

[0009] Therefore, the present inventors have recognized a need to develop a cosmetic composition with improved color stability that includes a substituted resorcinol and a retinoic acid precursor. The present inventors have found that the use of an emulsifying polymer and an opacifying agent, such as boron nitride, with a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil enhances the color stability of cosmetic compositions comprising a substituted resorcinol and a retinoic acid precursor. Thus, disclosed herein is a cosmetic composition having a substituted resorcinol in combination with (a) a retinoic acid precursor, (b) an emulsifying polymer, (c) an opacifying agent, and (d) cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil.

[0010] Accordingly, in a first aspect, the inventive composition relates to a composition comprising substituted resorcinol and retinoic acid precursor, in combination with an emulsifying polymer, an opacifying agent, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil.

[0011] In a second aspect, there is provided a composition comprising substituted resorcinol and retinoic acid precursor, in combination with a functionalized heteroaromatic compound, an emulsifying polymer, an opacifying agent comprising boron nitride, kaolin, or a mixture thereof, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil.

[0012] In a third aspect, the inventive composition relates to a composition comprising substituted resorcinol, functionalized heteroaromatic compound, and retinoic acid precursor, in combination with an emulsifying polymer, an opacifying agent, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil. In a fourth aspect, the inventive composition is directed to a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) a substituted resorcinol; (b) a retinoic acid precursor; (c) an emulsifying polymer; (d) an opacifying agent comprising boron nitride, kaolin, or a mixture thereof; and (e) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil.

[0013] In a fifth aspect, the inventive composition is directed to a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) a substituted resorcinol; (b) a functionalized heteroaromatic compound; (c) a retinoic acid precursor; (d) an emulsifying polymer; (e) an opacifying agent comprising boron nitride, kaolin, or a mixture thereof; and (f) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil.

[0014] In a sixth aspect, the inventive composition is directed to a cosmetic composition which includes: (a) one or more of a substituted resorcinol compound; (b) one or more of a retinoic acid precursor; (c) an emulsifying polymer; (d) an opacifying agent; and (e) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil; wherein the composition further comprises a preservative.

[0015] In a seventh aspect, the inventive composition is directed to a cosmetic composition which includes: (a) one or more of a substituted resorcinol compound; (b) one or more of a functionalized heteroaromatic compound; (c) one or more of a retinoic acid precursor; (d) an emulsifying polymer; (e) an opacifying agent; and (f) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil; wherein the composition further comprises a preservative.

[0016] In a eighth aspect, a method of providing an antiaging and / or even tone benefit to the skin comprising the steps of (a) making a color stable cosmetic composition comprising a substituted resorcinol, a retinoic acid precursor, an emulsifying agent, an opacifying agent comprising boron nitride, kaolin, or a mixture thereof, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil and (b) applying the cosmetic composition to skin in need of treatment is disclosed.

[0017] In a ninth aspect, a method of providing an antiaging and / or even tone benefit to the skin comprising the steps of (a) making a color stable cosmetic composition comprising a substituted resorcinol, functionalized heteroaromatic compound, a retinoic acid precursor, an emulsifying agent, an opacifying agent comprising boron nitride, kaolin, or a mixture thereof, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil and (b) applying the cosmetic composition to skin in need of treatment is disclosed. In a tenth aspect, a use of an opacifying agent comprising boron nitride, kaolin, or a mixture thereof, and an emulsifying polymer in a cosmetic composition to stabilize color of the composition, the composition comprising a substituted resorcinol, a functionalized heteroaromatic compound, a retinoic acid precursor, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil.

[0018] In an eleventh aspect, a use of an opacifying agent comprising boron nitride, kaolin, or a mixture thereof, and an emulsifying polymer in a cosmetic composition to stabilize color of the composition, the composition comprising a substituted resorcinol, a retinoic acid precursor, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil.

[0019] All other aspects of the present cosmetic compositions will become more readily apparent upon considering the detailed description and examples which follow.

[0020] For the avoidance of doubt, the term "comprising" is meant not to be limiting to any stated elements but rather to encompass non-specified elements of major or minor functional importance. Therefore, the listed steps, elements or options need not be exhaustive. Whenever the words "including" or "having" are used, these terms are meant to be equivalent to "comprising" as defined above.

[0021] The term “skin” as used herein includes the skin on the face, neck, chest, back, arms, axilla, buttocks, hands, legs and scalp. Skin benefit agent, as used herein, is meant to include a component that improves a facial or body characteristic after topical application like a skin characteristic and / or benefits the same wherein the skin benefit agent can be, and preferably is, a skin benefit agent in a cream, pump or aerosol spray, serum, lotion, balm, deodorant, gel, or wash composition. In an especially preferred embodiment, the composition is a leave-on composition, and the skin benefit agents are retinoic acid precursors and substituted resorcinols. As used herein, “monomer” means a discrete, non-polymerized chemical moiety that undergoes polymerization in a chemical reaction to result in a macromolecule and “unit” refers to a monomer that has already undergone such a polymerization reaction and is part of a polymer. “Polymer” refers to the reaction product formed from the polymerization of at least two monomer units. The use of “emulsifying polymer” is to be used interchangeably with “polymeric emulsifier” herein and refers to a multifunctional polymeric ingredient that has the potential to emulsify, stabilize and / or build viscosity of a composition. The terms “retinoid” and “retinoic acid precursor,” as used herein, refers to all natural and / or synthetic analogues of vitamin A or derivatives thereof having similar biological activity as vitamin A in human skin. The term “derivative(s)” as used with reference to ingredients herein refers to functional group substitutions on the compound. The term “functionalized,” as used herein, means that a compound possesses at least one functional group substituent, including an alkyl, acyl, hydroxy, alkoxy, carboxamide (amide), carboxyl, or carboalkoxy (ester) substituent, on the compound. Substantially free of, as used herein, is intended to mean comprising less than 5% by weight, preferably, less than 2% by weight, more preferably, less than 0.5% by weight of the composition.

[0022] Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material are to be understood as modified by the word "about." All amounts are by total weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified.

[0023] Detailed Description

[0024] Disclosed herein is a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) a substituted resorcinol; (b) a retinoic acid precursor; (c) an emulsifying polymer; (d) an opacifying agent comprising boron nitride, kaolin, or a mixture thereof; and (e) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil.

[0025] A resorcinol is a monohydroxy phenol compound (i.e . , 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene or 1 ,3-benzenediol) characterized by alcohol groups (—OH) at positions 1 and 3. The chemical structure of resorcinols may be modified, resulting in substituted resorcinols characterized by at least one substituent in the 2, 4, 5 or 6 position. Substituted, as used herein, refers to a compound in which one or more hydrogen atoms are replaced by another atom or group, e.g., substituent. In one aspect, the substituted resorcinol comprises at least one substituent comprising 1 to 11 carbon atoms, or 2 to 9 carbon atoms. In one aspect, the substituted resorcinol has at least one substituent comprised of an alkyl group or unsaturated alkyl group.

[0026] In one aspect, the substituted resorcinol is only substituted at position 4 with an alkyl group, e.g., the substituted resorcinol is a 4-substituted alkyl resorcinol, including but not limited to 4- methyl resorcinol, 4-ethyl resorcinol, 4-hexyl resorcinol, 4-cyclohexyl resorcinol, 4-propyl resorcinol, 4-isopropyl resorcinol, 4-butyl resorcinol, 4-pentyl resorcinol, 4-phenylethyl resorcinol, 4-cyclopentyl resorcinol, 4-cyclohexyl resorcinol, 4-heptyl resorcinol, 4-cycloheptyl resorcinol, 4-octyl resorcinol, 4-cyclooctyl resorcinol, 4-nonyl resorcinol, 4-decyl resorcinol, 4- undecyl resorcinol, 4-dodecyl resorcinol and / or combinations or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the substituted resorcinol is 4-ethylresorcinol, 4-hexylresorcinol, and 4-isopropylresorcinol. In one aspect, the substituted resorcinol is substituted at position 4 with a substituted or unsubstituted 5- or 6-membered carbon-based heterocyclic ring containing one or more heteroatoms selected from N, S, or O, preferably a substituted 5-membered carbon-based heterocyclic ring containing two heteroatoms selected from N or S, e.g., isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol or thiamidol. The composition comprises 0.001 to 10%, or 0.01 to 5%, or 0.025 to 2.5%, or 0.05 to 2%, or 0.1 to 1 %, or 0.1 to 0.75%, or 0.15 to 0.6% or 0.15 to 0.5% resorcinol by weight of the cosmetic composition, including all ranges subsumed therein. In yet another embodiment, the resorcinol is 4-hexylresorcinol, 4-ethylresorcinol, or mixtures thereof.

[0027] In another aspect, the substituted resorcinol is substituted at position 5 with an alkyl group as disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 10,470,986. In one embodiment, the substituted resorcinol comprises: or a salt or mixture thereof.

[0028] The inventive compositions contain a retinoic acid precursor, which typically includes retinyl esters, retinol, retinal, or mixtures thereof, preferably, retinal, retinyl ester, or mixtures thereof. Examples of retinyl esters desirable for use include but are not limited to: retinyl palmitate, retinyl formate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl butyrate, retinyl valerate, retinyl isovalerate, retinyl hexanoate, retinyl heptanoate, retinyl octanoate, retinyl nonanoate, retinyl decanoate, retinyl undecanoate, retinyl taurate, retinyl tridecanoate, retinyl myristate, retinyl pentadecanoate, retinyl heptadecanoate, retinyl stearate, retinyl isostearate, retinyl nonadecanoate, retinyl arachidonate, retinyl behenate, retinyl linoleate, and retinyl oleate. Preferably, the ester is selected from retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, and mixtures thereof. Retinyl linoleate and retinyl oleate are also preferred. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the retinoic acid precursor is retinyl propionate, retinol, or a mixture thereof. Retinoic acid precursor is employed in an amount of 0.001 to 5%, or 0.01 to 1%, or 0.01 to 0.75%, or 0.1 to 0.5%, by weight of the cosmetic composition, including all ranges subsumed therein.

[0029] Compositions disclosed herein include one or more of an opacifying agent. As used herein, “opacifying agent” is meant to refer to a cosmetic material that provides an optical effect when added to a composition by preventing light transmittance and making the composition brighter and whiter. The opacifying agent is present in amounts of 0.01 to 15%, or 0.05 to 12%, or 0.1 to 10%, or 0.25 to 9%, or 0.5 to 8%, or 1 to 8%, or 1 .5 to 7%, or 2 to 6%, or 2.5 to 6%, or 3 to 5.5% by weight of the composition, including all ranges subsumed therein. The opacifying agent comprises at least one of boron nitride, kaolin, or a mixture thereof.

[0030] In a preferred embodiment, the opacifying agent comprises boron nitride. In another embodiment, the opacifying agent is boron nitride. It has been unexpectedly determined that boron nitride allows the composition to discolor less than compositions without boron nitride. Boron nitride (BN) is a chemically inert non-oxide ceramic material, which exists in several crystalline varieties. Typically, the boron nitride is provided in the neat as a powder or as particles, and has a mean particle size ranging from 300 nm to 40 microns, or 500 nm to 30 microns, or 700 nm to 20 microns, or 900 nm to 18 microns, or 1 micron to 15 microns, or 1 .1 microns to 10 microns, or 1 .5 microns to 8 microns, or 1.5 to 5 microns. Mean particle size, as used herein, or particle size distribution D50, is determined by conventional techniques known to one skilled in the art, such as laser diffraction. For the avoidance of doubt, a mean particle size (D50) of, for example, 2 microns, means that the mean particle size of the particle is 2 microns and also that 50% of the particles are smaller than 2 microns and 50% of the particles are larger than 2 microns in size. The particle size can be assessed with conventional equipment known to those skilled in the art such as a Leitz optical microscope (e.g., ones of the Laborlux 12 Pol S model name) fitted with cross-polarizers under magnification settings of 5x to 50x or a Malvern Mastersizer 3000.

[0031] The specific surface area of the boron nitride is from 1 to 80 m2 / g, or from 2.5 to 60 m2 / g, or from 5 to 40 m2 / g, or from 10 to 20 m2 / g, or from 10 to 18 m2 / g, or from 12 to 18 m2 / g. In an embodiment of the invention, a preferred surface area of the boron nitride is at least 1 m2 / g, or at least 1.5 m2 / g, or at least 2 m2 / g, or at least 10 m2 / g, or at least 12 m2 / g.

[0032] The oil absorption capacity of the boron nitride is at least 50 g / 100 g, or at least 75 g / 100 g, preferably, from 50 g / 100 g to 200 g / 100 g, or 75 g / 100 g to 150 g / 100 g, or 75 g / 100 g to 130 g / 100 g, or 80 g / 100 g to 125 g / 100 g, or 85 g / 100 g to 120 g / 100 g, or 87 g / 100 g to 115 g / 100 g. The oil absorption of the boron nitride is measured according to ASTM D281-84.

[0033] In one embodiment, the preferred boron nitride is sold under the tradename CARESS® BN as made commercially available by Kobo. In another embodiment, the preferred boron nitride is CARESS® BN02 from Kobo. In yet another embodiment, the boron nitride may be made commercially available as surface treated / coated with another material, such as isopropyl titanium triisostearate or triethoxycaprylylsilane. An illustrative example of a desirable boron nitride coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate is BN02-I2, as made commercially available by Kobo.

[0034] In another embodiment, the opacifying agent comprises kaolin. The kaolin in compositions disclosed herein is a colloidal (e.g., particles from 1 to 1000 nanometers (nm)) clay mineral having a chemical composition comprising AI2Si2O5(OH)4. The colloidal kaolin will comprise 40 to 50% by weight SiO2, 35 to 45% by weight AI2O3and 1 to 2.5% by weight TiO2. Kaolin may be used alone according to the disclosed composition or may be used in conjunction with other opacifying agents desirable for use in personal care products. It is desirable to use kaolin commercially made available by suppliers such as Brenntag under the tradename Kaolin Colloidal USP BC 2457. In an embodiment of the invention, kaolin is used with boron nitride where kaolin and boron nitride are used in a weight ratio of 1.5:3 to 3:1.5, or from 2:3, or from 2.5:3 to 3:2.5.

[0035] Cosmetic composition disclosed comprises an emulsifying polymer. The emulsifying polymer comprises at least one repeating anionic structural unit selected from the group of acrylic acid or acrylate methacrylic alkylamidopropyl. Desirable emulsifying polymers are swellable polymer powders made of pure acrylic acid monomers or a mixture of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid monomers, and are, preferably, polymers having a chemical name of Acrylates / C-10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, or a mixture thereof. In one aspect, the polymer is a crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymer. In another aspect, the polymer is a crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymer. The emulsifying polymer is multifunctional and is capable of emulsifying, stabilizing, and / or building viscosity of a composition. It is within the scope of the present compositions to employ a polymeric emulsifier alone or in combination with other additional polymeric emulsifiers. Illustrative but nonlimiting Acrylates / Cio-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer for use in the present cosmetic compositions are made commercially available by the supplier The Lubrizol Corporation under such trade names as PEMULEN™ TR-1 , PEMULEN™ TR-2, PEMULEN™ EZ-4U, CARBOPOL® Ultrez 20, CARBOPOL® Ultrez 21 , CARBOPOL® 1382 and CARBOPOL® ETD 2020. Desirable Carbomers for use in the present compositions include CARBOPOL® Ultrez 10 and CARBOPOL® 980, both commercially sold by The Lubrizol Corporation. Emulsifying polymers are included in the cosmetic composition in an amount of 0.01 to 5%, preferably, from 0.02 to 4%, and, more preferably, from 0.03 to 3%, by total weight of the composition. It is still more preferred that the polymers are included in the cosmetic composition at 0.04 to 2% by weight, most preferably, 0.05 to 1 % by weight of the cosmetic composition, including all ranges subsumed therein.

[0036] One of ordinary skill in the art would be adept to identify the need to adjust pH of the composition to obtain the characteristics desired by consumers. Any pH modifier known in the field acceptable for use in personal care and / or pharmaceutical products can be employed to result in a cosmetic composition possessing a skin-acceptable pH, typically within the range of 4 to 8. In a preferred embodiment, the pH of the cosmetic composition is 4.25 to 7.5, and, most preferably, 5 to 7. Traditional buffers or pH modifiers include common additives such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, hydrochloric acid, citric acid, triethanolamine, and aminomethyl propanol. Viscosity of the cosmetic composition disclosed herein is preferably 1 ,000 to 120,000 mPa s, and, more preferably, 5,000 to 80,000 millipascal-second (mPa s), taken under conditions of ambient temperature and a shear rate of 1 s1with a strain controlled parallel plate rheometer made commercially available from suppliers like T.A. Instruments under the Discovery name. Alternatively, viscosity can also be measured using a Brookfield Viscometer (e.g., speed at 20 rpm, spindle 5, helipath off, for one (1) minute at ambient temperature). The cosmetic composition can be formulated as a serum having a viscosity of 1 ,000 to 4,000 mPa s, a lotion having a viscosity of 4,000 to 10,000 mPa s, a fluid cream having a viscosity of 10,000 to 20,000 mPa s or a cream having a viscosity of 20,000 to 100,000 mPa s or above.

[0037] Cosmetic compositions disclosed herein also comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising at least one oil to act as a diluent, dispersant, or carrier for the skin benefit agents in the composition, so as to facilitate its distribution when the composition is applied to the skin. As used herein, “oil” refers to a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure. In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprises less than or equal to 40% oil, or less than or equal to 30% oil, or less than or equal to 20% oil, or less than or equal to 15% oil by weight of the vehicle. In another embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprises 1 to 40% oil by weight of the composition, or 3 to 30% oil, or 4 to 20%, or 5 to 18%, or 6 to 17%, or 7 to 15%, or 1 to 18%, or 2 to 15% oil by weight of the composition. Preferably, the cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprises 3 to 15%, or 5 to 12% oil by weight of the composition. Suitable oils include, but are not limited to, silicones, fatty acids, esters, hydrocarbons, triglycerides, waxes, and derivatives and / or mixtures thereof.

[0038] Silicones may be categorized into the volatile and nonvolatile variety. Amounts can be, for example, 0.01 to 8%, more preferably, 0.1 to 6% by weight of the composition. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic (cyclomethicone) or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms.

[0039] Linear volatile silicone materials generally have viscosities of less than 5 centistokes at 25°C while cyclic materials typically have viscosities of less than 10 centistokes.

[0040] Nonvolatile silicones useful in this composition include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially nonvolatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities from 5 x 10-6to 0.1 m2 / s at 25°C. Emulsifying and non-emulsifying silicone elastomers are also suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions disclosed herein.

[0041] An often-preferred silicone source is a dimethicone, a cyclic silicone (e.g., cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane), or a mixture thereof.

[0042] In one aspect, the cosmetic composition is substantially free of silicones, having less than 5%, or less than 3%, or less than 1%, or less than 0.5%, or less than 0.1 %, or 0% of silicones.

[0043] Fatty acids may also be useful carriers. The term "fatty" refers to carbon chain lengths ranging from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleic, arachidic, behenic, erucic acids and combinations thereof. In one embodiment, the fatty acid comprises a C6to Ci8fatty acid, ester, and / or acylglycerol thereof. Among suitable esters include:

[0044] (1) Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms like isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate;

[0045] (2) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols;

[0046] (3) Polyhydric alcohol esters such as ethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and difatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1 ,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1 ,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters.

[0047] Waxes and wax esters are also suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions. These waxes include petroleum-derived waxes (e.g., paraffin wax, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax), animal- derived waxes or those from animal byproducts (e.g., beeswax, spermaceti wax, Chinese wax, wool wax, shellac wax), plant-derived waxes (e.g., tribehenin wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, bayberry wax, jojoba wax, orange wax, rice bran wax, rose flower wax, sunflower wax, castor wax, soy wax), mineral waxes (e.g., montan wax, ceresin wax, ozokerite) and synthetic derivatives of natural waxes.

[0048] Triglycerides are another group of materials useful as carriers in the cosmetic compositions disclosed herein. Illustrative but not limiting examples are plant-based oils such as sunflower seed oil, safflower oil, cotton oil, canola oil, grapeseed oil, soybean oil, castor oil, borage oil, olive oil, shea butter, jojoba oil, seabuckthorn, corn oil, avocado oil, or a mixture thereof. Mono- and diglycerides may also be useful. Illustrative of these categories are glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate.

[0049] Hydrocarbons may be optionally included in the cosmetic composition. Desirable hydrocarbons may include mineral oil, petrolatum and polyalpha-olefins. Examples of preferred volatile hydrocarbons include polydecanes such as isodecane and isododecane and the C7-C8through C12-C15 isoparaffins.

[0050] It is within the scope of the cosmetic compositions to include sunscreens and photostabilizers as an oil within the cosmetically acceptable vehicle. The sunscreens and photostabilizers that may be used in the cosmetic compositions include such materials as octylmethoxycinnamate (OMK), and ethylhexyl salicylate. Other sunscreens desirable for use include p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyldimethyl-PABA, 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxy cinnamate, homomethyl salicylate, menthyl anthranilate, benzophenone-4, triethanolamine salicylate, iscotrizinol, polysilicone-15, isopentenyl-4-methoxycinnamate, mixtures thereof or the like. Also desirable for use is octocrylene. In a preferred embodiment, the oil in the cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprises ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene, octylmethoxycinnamate, or a mixture thereof.

[0051] In a preferred embodiment, illustrative examples of oils that can be used in the compositions disclosed herein include, caprylic / capric triglycerides, a cyclic silicone (e.g., cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane), dimethicone, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octisalate, octocrylene, octylmethoxycinnamate, silicones, triolein, and a mixture thereof. In another preferred embodiment, the oil comprises caprylic / capric triglycerides, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octisalate, octocrylene, octylmethoxycinnamate, triolein, and a mixture thereof. Preferably, the oil comprises caprylic / capric triglycerides, dimethicone, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, triolein, or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the oil comprises caprylic / capric triglycerides, dimethicone, isopropyl myristate, or a mixture thereof. Most preferably, the oil comprises caprylic / capric triglycerides, isopropyl myristate, or a mixture thereof.

[0052] This cosmetically acceptable vehicle may be aqueous, anhydrous, or an emulsion. Oily carriers in the presence of water and an emulsifier (i.e., a surfactant) will form emulsion systems as carriers. Preferably, the composition is aqueous or an emulsion, especially water-in-oil or oil-in- water emulsion, preferentially, oil-in-water emulsion. Where the composition is aqueous or an oil- in-water emulsion, the cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprises at least 45% water, or at least 50% water, or at least 55% water by weight of the cosmetically acceptable vehicle. The cosmetic composition ordinarily will be in but is not limited to cream or lotion form.

[0053] Suitable aqueous carriers employed in the cosmetically acceptable vehicle (in addition to oil) include water, sea water, rosewater (e.g., Rosa Damascena flower Water), tea (e.g., Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water), Aloe Barbadensis (aloe vera) leaf juice, witch hazel (e.g., Hamamelis Virginiana extract), lavender water (e.g., Lavendula Angustifolia flower water), grape water (e.g., Vitis Vinifera fruit water and Vitis Vinifera juice). In the most preferred embodiment, water is the carrier. Amounts of water (and water-based carriers, e.g., rosewater) can be 5 to 90%, more preferably, 15 to 80%, and, most preferably, 30 to 70% by weight based on the weight of the cosmetic composition and including all ranges subsumed therein. The cosmetically acceptable vehicle can, in the absence of other cosmetic adjuncts, form the balance of the composition.

[0054] Conventional humectants, generally of the polyhydric alcohol-type materials, can be optionally included in the cosmetic compositions disclosed herein. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol (i.e., glycerine or glycerin), propylene glycol, propanediol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3- butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol, and a mixture thereof. The most preferred embodiment includes glycerin, propylene glycol, or a mixture thereof.

[0055] Cosmetic compositions disclosed herein may include, in addition to a substituted resorcinol and a retinoic acid precursor, a functionalized heteroaromatic compound. The functionalized heteroaromatic compound, when used, is preferably a carboxylic acid functionalized heteroaromatic compound. The carboxylic acid functionalized heteroaromatic compound may be any cosmetically acceptable nicotinic acid, picolinic acid, or derivative or mixture thereof, preferably, nicotinic acid, niacinamide, nicotinate, picolinic acid, picolinamide, ora mixture thereof, more preferably, niacinamide, picolinamide, or a mixture thereof, and, most preferably, the carboxylic acid functionalized heteroaromatic compound is niacinamide. If used, the functionalized heteroaromatic compound is typically present in an amount of 0.01 to 10%, or 0.05 to 7%, or 0.075 to 5%, or 0.1 to 4% by weight of the cosmetic composition, including all ranges subsumed therein. Cosmetic compositions disclosed herein may optionally comprise surfactants. One of ordinary skill in the art would recognize if there was a composition-specific need to include surfactants, which encompass the category of materials known in the relevant field as emulsifiers. A skilled artisan would also be knowledgeable in the selection of appropriate surfactant or combination of surfactants required based on common factors including, but not limited to, hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) value of surfactants, pH of the cosmetic composition, and electrolyte content of the cosmetic composition.

[0056] Surfactants selected for use would not exceed a maximum inclusion level of 10%, preferably, not exceeding 7%, and, more preferably, not exceeding 5% surfactant by weight of the cosmetic composition. In one embodiment, surfactants may be present in amounts of 0.01 to 10%, or 0.1 to 8%, or 0.5 to 7% by weight of the composition. In another embodiment, cosmetic compositions are substantially free of surfactants, that is, cosmetic compositions comprise less than 5%, preferably, less than 2%, more preferably, less than 0.5% surfactant by weight of the composition.

[0057] The surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are those with a C10-C20fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C2-C10 alkyl phenols condensed with 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, mono- and di- C8-C20fatty acids; and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof. Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides (e.g., methyl gluconamides) are also suitable nonionic surfactants. Still other preferred nonionic surfactants include glyceryl stearate, glycol stearate and stearamide AMP.

[0058] Preferred anionic surfactants include alkyl ether sulfate and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, C8-C20acyl isethionates, C8-C20acyl methyl isethionates, C8-C20acyl methyl taurates, C8-C20alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and combinations thereof.

[0059] Cationic surfactants that may be used include, for example, palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, diester quaternary ammonium compounds (e.g., distearoylethyl dimonium chloride), and mixtures thereof. Color stability is determined through the use of LabScan XE equipment (Hunter Associates Laboratory, Inc. Reston, Virginia). LabScan XE measures color data. Color stable, as used herein, describes a cosmetic composition that possesses a AE of 7.50 or less based on L*, a* and b* color differences taken on a Hunter Lab spectrophotometer at 4 weeks at 45°C. Generally, AE <7.50 at 4 weeks at 45°C is desirable and AE >7.50 is undesirable. Samples at different storage stages housed in vials or in measurement cells are loaded onto the LabScan XE measurement port. By following the measurement procedure specified in the associated instrument menu and computer software, colors (a*, b* and L*) are measured and calculated to result in a color change data (AE) value. For reference, a AE of approximately three is the threshold where one may visibly detect a color change from the original sample. Alternately, the color of each sample can be directly converted into L*a*b* color scale by uploading pictures of the samples and using standard publicly available software (see, e.g., https: / / www.ginifab.com or http: / / colormine.org / convert / rgb- to-hunterlab).

[0060] The L* parameter measures darkness and lightness and ranges from black (L* = 0) to white (L* = 100). The a* parameter measures color content and intensity ranging from green (a* < 0) to neutral grey (a* = 0) to red (a* > 0). The b* parameter also measures color content and intensity ranging from blue (b* < 0) to neutral grey (b* = 0) to yellow (b* > 0). The term AE measures the color difference for a given sample at two (2) different time points and is calculated as AE = [(L2* - Li*)2+ (a2* - a-i*)2+ (b2* - bi*)2]1 / 2where L2*, a2* and b2* correspond to the color parameters of the sample at time point 2 (e.g., 12 days) and Li*, a-i* and bi* correspond to the color parameters of the sample at time point 1 (e.g., time zero).

[0061] It has also been unexpectedly discovered that cosmetic compositions made in accordance with the present invention provide good stability and color stability for the composition itself, as well as anti-aging and even tone benefits when applied to the skin.

[0062] It has further been unexpectedly discovered that compositions made in accordance with the present invention delivers superior sensory benefits (e.g., reduced oiliness, greasiness and / or stickiness upon topical application to the skin) without compromising color stability of the overall composition at lower inclusion levels of oil, i.e., less than or equal to 40%, or less than or equal to 30%, or less than or equal to 20%, or less than or equal to 15% oil by weight of the composition. “Stickiness,” as used herein, refers to a tactile attribute, namely the degree to which finger adheres to residual product and skin pulls up while tapping downward on the skin. “Greasiness” and “oiliness,” as used herein, refers to tactile attributes, namely the perception of a slippery, fatty substance that is heavy / thick or light / slick, respectively.

[0063] The cosmetic compositions may optionally comprise one or more thickening agents in addition to the emulsifying polymer previously described herein, preferably, in an amount of 0.05 to 3%, more preferably, 0.1 to 2%, and, even more preferably, 0.2 to 1 % by weight of the composition. Useful thickening agents may include polysaccharides, which comprise of starches, natural / synthetic gums and cellulosics. Desirable starches may include tapioca starch, cornstarch, potato starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and sodium hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. Desirable gums may include xanthan, sclerotium, pectin, karaya, arabic, agar, guar, carrageenan, alginate and combinations thereof. Desirable cellulosics may include hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, ethylcellulose and sodium carboxy methylcellulose. Synthetic polymers functioning as thickening agents may also be desirable for use, including taurate copolymers.

[0064] Fragrances, skin benefit agents, fixatives and abrasives may optionally be included in cosmetic compositions disclosed herein. Skin benefit agents include but are not limited to colorants, humectants, emollients, occlusive agents, plant extracts, optical agents, even tone agents, antiinflammatory agents, anti-acne agents, sunscreens, antioxidants, photostabilizers, surfactants, wrinkle-reducing agents, desquamation promoters, exfoliating agents, or a mixture thereof or the like. Each of these substances may be present in an amount of 0.05 to 5%, preferably, 0.1 to 3% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0065] It is within the scope of the cosmetic compositions to optionally include one or more antioxidants, which may be natural, naturally derived, or synthetic antioxidants. Antioxidants may be any antioxidant desirable for use in cosmetic compositions. Illustrative but nonlimiting examples of such antioxidants comprise alpha hydroxy acids (e.g., citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid and mandelic acid), amino acids and derivatives thereof, beta-hydroxy acids (e.g., propanoic acid and salicylic acid), butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), carotenes, carotenoids, co-enzyme Q10, didodecyl 3,3' thiodipropionate, glutathione, imidazole and derivatives thereof, octadecyl di-t- butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, peptides and derivatives thereof, plant extracts (e.g., Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract and Camellia sinesis (green tea) leaf extract), polyhydroxy acids (e.g., gluconic acid, gluconolactone and lactobionic acid), polyphenols (e.g., anthocyanin, ellagic acid, flavonoid, tannin), and resveratrol.

[0066] Another class that may be used in the inventive cosmetic composition as optional antioxidants includes vitamins. Illustrative vitamins include, but are not limited to, vitamin B2, vitamin B5(panthenol), vitamin B6, vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin F, vitamin K, folic acid and biotin. Derivatives of the vitamins may also be employed. For instance, vitamin C derivatives include ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glycoside. Derivatives of vitamin E include tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl palmitate and tocopheryl linoleate. It is preferred that the antioxidant comprises BHT, didodecyl 3,3' thiodipropionate, octadecyl di-t-butyl-4- hydroxyhydrocinnamate, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, polyphenols, or a mixture thereof. The total weight percent of antioxidants that may be present in the cosmetic compositions disclosed herein is preferably 0 to 4%, or 0.01 to 4%, or 0 to 3%, or 0.02 to 3%, or 0.05 to 2.5%, or 0 to 2%, or 0.15 to 2%, or 0.2 to 2% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0067] Retinoid boosters may also be useful ingredients to incorporate for use in the compositions disclosed herein, such as fatty acids and derivatives thereof. As described in several U.S. Patents to Granger et al. (U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,759,556, 5,756,109, 5,747,051 , 5,716,627, 5,811 ,110, 5,536,740, 5,747,051 , 5,599,548, 5,955092, 5,885,595, 5,759,556, 5,693,330, 7,959,913, 8,226,933 and 8,409,550), the term “retinoid boosters” is used to refer collectively to compounds that have been determined to enhance the enzymatic conversion of retinyl esters and retinol to retinoic acid as part of the natural retinol metabolic process in the skin’s epidermis. The boosters alone or in combination with other booster compounds help to enhance efficacy of a retinoic acid precursor. Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic (e.g., 10- or 12-hydroxystearic acid), oleic, linoleic, ricinoleic, arachidic, behenic, erucic acids and combinations thereof. Preferred derivatives of such fatty acids include fatty alcohols, such as cetyl, lauryl, myristyl, palmitic, cetearyl, stearyl and oleyl alcohols; fatty esters, such as 2-ethyl-hexyl myristate, isopropyl stearate and isostearyl palmitate, triisopropyl trilinoleate and trilauryl citrate, lauryl palmitate, myristyl lactate, oleyl eurcate and stearyl oleate, coco- caprylate / caprate (a blend of coco-caprylate and coco-caprete), propylene glycol myristyl ether acetate, diisopropyl adipate and cetyl octanoate; and fatty amides, such as cocamide monoethanolamide (CMEA), castor oil monoethanolamide, linoleoyl monoethanolamide (LAMEA), palmitamide monoethanolamide and linoleamide diethanolamide. In one embodiment, the composition further comprises palmitic acid, stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, or a mixture thereof.

[0068] Other illustrative but nonlimiting examples of such booster compounds include carotenoids, flavonoids, cyclic and non-cyclic fragrances, antimicotics (e.g., bifonazole, climbazole, clotrimazole, econazole, ketoconazole, miconazole), phospholipid analogues, ureas, phosphatiylethanolamine, phosphatidylcholine, sphingomyelin, natural colorants (e.g., coumarin), quinolines, isoquinolines, metyrapone, and mixtures thereof. In an embodiment, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, fatty amides, climbazole, or a mixture thereof may be used as retinoid boosters. In a particularly preferred embodiment, 12-hydroxystearic acid, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, CMEA, LAMEA, climbazole, or a mixture thereof is used as retinoid boosters. In another embodiment, the composition further comprises 12-hydroxystearic acid. When used, 0.01 to 5%, or 0.05 to 3%, or 0.1 to 2% by weight of a retinoid booster compound is present in the composition.

[0069] Other additional optional skin benefit agents desirable for use include minerals and skin nutrients such as milk; magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc and other metallic components; caffeine; kojic acid; hydroquinone and arbutin; saccharide isomerate; undecylenoyl phenylalanine; sphingolipids, phospholipids (e.g., phytosphingosine), ceramides (e.g. Ceramide 1 , Ceramide 3, Ceramide 3B and Ceramide 6) and pseudoceramides; allantoin; pyroglutamic acid (PCA) salt derivatives including zinc PCA and sodium PCA; petroselinic acid; conjugated linoleic acid; octadecanoic acid; hyaluronic acid and its salt derivatives; and mixtures thereof and the like. Such skin benefit agents, when used, collectively make up 0.001 to 12% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0070] A wide selection of botanical extracts may optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions. The extracts may either be soluble in water or oil, carried in a solvent that is hydrophilic or hydrophobic, respectively. In a preferred embodiment, water or ethanol are the extract solvents. Illustrative examples include those extracted from green tea, yarrow, chamomile, licorice, aloe vera, citrus unshui, willow bark, alfalfa, algae, witch hazel, sage, thyme, and rosemary, as well as oils such as those derived from sea buckthorn, moringa, argan, avocado, calendula, algal and marula. Soy extracts may be used and especially when it is desirable to include retinol. Such extracts, when used, are preferably employed in collective amounts of 0.001 to 12% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0071] Another optional additive desirable for use includes hemp oil with 2.5 to 25% by weight cannabigerol and / or cannabidiol at from 0.5 to 10 percent by weight. When used, such oil makes up 0.0001 to 12%, and, preferably, 0.01 to 5% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0072] The disclosed cosmetic composition may further optionally comprise non-oily sunscreens and / or photostabilizers. Illustrative but nonlimiting examples of such sunscreen or photostabilizers include phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate (e.g., commercially available as PARSOL MCX®), Avobenzene (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; commercially available as PARSOL 1789®), benzophenone-1 , benzophenone-2, benzophenone- 3 (also known as oxybenzone), benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, bisoctriazole, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, bisdisulizole disodium, diometriazole trisiloxane, octyltriazone, or a mixture thereof.

[0073] Optionally, one or more coloring agents may also be included in the cosmetic compositions disclosed herein. Coloring agents include dyes or pigments of natural or synthetic origin. A dye selected for use may be organic or inorganic and water-soluble or oil-soluble. Illustrative and nonlimiting examples of water-soluble dyes include, for example, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Yellow 10, D&C Orange 4, D&C Red 6, D&C Red 22, D&C Red 28, D&C Red 33, D&C Green 5 or methylene blue. Oil-soluble dyes include, for example, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, p-carotene, D&C Violet 2, D&C Yellow 11 , D&C Orange 5 and quinoline yellow. Pigments desirable for use are specially chosen from the mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, and mixtures thereof as known in the art. Illustrative but nonlimiting examples include mineral pigments such as titanium dioxide, ochres (yellow ochre, red ochre, brown ochre, iron hydroxide), metal oxides (zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide), manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, or metal powders (aluminum, bronze or copper powder); organic pigments such as nitroso, nitro, azo, phthalocyanine, diazine, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, quinacridone, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds; and lakes (particularly those deriving from calcium, barium, aluminum and strontium salts) such as D&C Red No. 6 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 28 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 33 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Yellow No. 10 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No.5 Aluminum Lake and F&D Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake. Nacres, such as natural mica coated with a metal oxide, bismuth oxychloride or a natural pigment, are also desirable to be included in the cosmetic compositions disclosed herein. Other coloring agents desirable for use include chalk, activated charcoal, and carbon black. Cosmetic compositions comprise 0.01 to 7.5%, preferably, 0.1 to 5% and, more preferably, 0.5 to 3% by weight of the coloring agent, when used, relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0074] Preservatives can be incorporated into the present cosmetic compositions as desired to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Cosmetic chemists are familiar with appropriate preservatives and routinely choose them to satisfy preservative tests and product stability tests. Preservative systems should be selected having regard for the use of the composition and possible incompatibilities between the preservatives and other ingredients in the formulation. Exemplary examples of preservatives for cosmetic compositions disclosed herein include, without limitations, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate (IPBC), phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerine, 1 ,2-octanediol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, 1 ,3-propanediol, alkyl esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid, hydroxyacetophenone, DMDM hydantoin derivatives, climbazole, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts of 0.01 to 2% by weight of the composition.

[0075] Traditional fragrance components like eugenol, coumarin, linalyl acetate, citronellal, iris concentrate, terpinyl acetate, terpineol, thymol, pinenes (e.g., alpha and beta pinene) and citronellol may optionally be added to the cosmetic composition as well.

[0076] If employed, the traditional preservatives, vicinal diol and / or fragrance component will not make up more than 5%, or not more than 2%, or from 0.2 to 0.85% by weight of the cosmetic composition disclosed herein. In one aspect, from 0.2 to 0.8% by weight optional preservative, vicinal diol and / or fragrance oil component is used, based on total weight of the cosmetic composition. In another aspect, the cosmetic composition may comprise of a preservation system having less than 0.3%, or less than 0.1 %, or 0% (i.e., no) by weight paraben, DMDM hydantoin, or a mixture thereof. In still another aspect, the cosmetic composition may comprise of a preservative system that is formaldehyde-free, paraben-free, or both.

[0077] When making the present cosmetic composition, the desired ingredients are mixed via conventional methods. If applicable, the oil phase and water phases are separately mixed using standard mixers and mixing blades and heated to a temperature usually from 22 to 85°C under atmospheric pressure. Upon reaching the desired temperature, the oil phase is added to the water phase to create an emulsion. Other ingredients in the cosmetic composition are subsequently added and mixed in no particular order.

[0078] The cosmetic composition disclosed herein is a composition suitable for topical application to human skin, including leave-on and wash-off products. Preferably, the term encompasses a fluid liquid, and particularly a moisturizer rather than a make-up product. Most preferred are leave-on compositions. The term "leave-on" as used with reference to compositions herein means a composition that is applied to or rubbed on the skin and left thereon.

[0079] Many types of packaging can be used to store and deliver the present cosmetic composition. The selection of packaging is dependent upon the personal care end-use and the viscosity of the composition itself. As an example, leave-on lotions and creams for skin typically employ plastic containers with an opening at a dispense end covered by an appropriate closure. Conventional closures include flip-top hinged lids, screw-caps and non-aerosol pumps. As another example, appropriate packaging to be used for antiperspirants, deodorants and depilatories include a container with a roller-ball applicator on a dispensing end if the composition is fluid and of a thinner viscosity. If the composition is in a stick format, a container with a propel-repel mechanism wherein the stick is fixed on a platform towards a dispensing orifice is appropriate. If the composition is in an aerosol format, then metallic cans pressurized by a propellant and having a spray nozzle is appropriate. In general, patches, bottles, tubes, roller-ball applicators, squeeze containers or lidded jars are preferred.

[0080] In another aspect, the inventive composition relates to a method of providing an antiaging and / or even tone benefit to the skin comprising the steps of (a) making a color stable cosmetic composition comprising a substituted resorcinol, a retinoic acid precursor, an emulsifying agent, an opacifying agent comprising boron nitride, kaolin, or a mixture thereof, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil; and (b) applying the cosmetic composition to skin in need of treatment.

[0081] In still another aspect, the inventive composition is directed to a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) a substituted resorcinol; (b) a retinoic acid precursor; (c) an emulsifying polymer; (d) an opacifying agent comprising boron nitride, kaolin, or a mixture thereof; and (e) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil.

[0082] The cosmetic compositions will now be described below in the context of specific non-limiting examples to facilitate a greater understanding of the present cosmetic compositions. One of ordinary skill in the art will recognize that variations of the inventive compositions that differ from the examples given may be practiced without deviating from the teachings of the present compositions.

[0083] Examples

[0084] All samples were made by mixing the mentioned ingredients under conditions of moderate sheer, 22°C to 85°C, and atmospheric pressure. Example 1 : Formulation with 3% niacinamide, 0.4% 4-hexylresorcinol, and 0.3% retinyl propionate An emulsion cosmetic composition according to the invention was made by combining the above ingredients.

[0085] Example 2: Varying the Formulation of Example 1

[0086] Cosmetic compositions in Example 2 were made by combining the above ingredients. The results obtained in Example 2 demonstrated that compositions made according to the invention disclosed herein had undesirable AE values (i.e., AE greater than 7.50) after being subjected to 45°C conditions for 4 weeks.

[0087] Samples A and B are comparative examples (not according to the invention), which both result in undesirable AE values. Sample A is characterized by an absence of boron nitride in the composition. Lastly, sample B is characterized by an absence of emulsifying polymer. Samples 1 and 2 are examples according to the invention. Both result in desirable AE values less than or equal to 7.50. Sample 1 is characterized by an absence of antioxidants, namely pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate and didodecyl 3,3' thiodipropionate here. It was surprisingly found that when a desirable opacifying agent such as boron nitride is present in the composition, antioxidant inclusion may be optional in achieving a color stable composition. Sample 2 varies the types of oils used in the cosmetically acceptable vehicle, and it has unexpectedly been determined that such a modification does not negatively impact the resulting AE value.

[0088] Example 3: Different types and inclusion levels of opacifying agent evaluated in composition with 7.5% oil by weight of the composition

[0089] In Example 3, different opacifying agents at the disclosed inclusion levels above were added to the formulation of Sample A in Example 2. Particularly, Samples 3 through 8 are characterized by the addition of boron nitride (two grades of boron nitride as disclosed above were used) at various levels. Sample 9 is characterized by the addition of kaolin. Sample A, a comparative example, is characterized by an absence of boron nitride in the composition. Samples C, D, and E are comparative examples (not according to the invention) having opacifying agents that are zeolite, talc, and silica, respectively, all which result in undesirable AE values. Example 3 demonstrates that desirable AE values, i.e., exhibiting excellent color stability, were unexpectedly found to result only from samples 3 to 9 according to the invention. Color stability was evaluated for samples stored at 4 weeks at 45°C.

Claims

Claims1 . A cosmetic composition comprising:(a) a substituted resorcinol comprising 4-hexylresorcinol, 4-ethylresorcinol, 4- phenylethylresorcinol, 4-cyclopentylresorcinol, 4-cyclohexylresorcinol, 4-octylresorcinol, thiamidol, or a mixture thereof;(b) a retinoic acid precursor comprising a retinyl ester, retinol, retinal ester, retinoic acid, or a mixture thereof;(c) an emulsifying polymer comprising Acrylates / C-10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, or a mixture thereof;(d) an opacifying agent comprising boron nitride, kaolin, or a mixture thereof; and(e) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil; wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 0.01 to 5%, preferably, 0.02 to 4%, and, more preferably, 0.03 to 3% by weight of emulsifying polymer.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , wherein the composition further comprises a functionalized heteroaromatic compound comprising nicotinic acid, picolinic acid, nicotinate, niacinamide, picolinamide, or a mixture thereof.

3. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 0.001 to 10%, preferably, 0.01 to 5%, and, more preferably, 0.025 to 2.5% by weight substituted resorcinol.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 0.001 to 5%, preferably, 0.01 to 1 %, and, more preferably, 0.01 to 0.75% by weight of the retinoic acid precursor.

5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 0.01 to 10%, preferably, 0.05 to 7%, and, more preferably, 0.075 to 5% by weight of the functionalized heteroaromatic compound.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprises less than or equal to 40%, preferably, less than or equal to 30%, and, more preferably, less than or equal to 20% oil by weight of the composition.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprises 1 to 40%, preferably, 3 to 30%, more preferably, 5 to 18%, and, most preferably, 6 to 17% by weight oil.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the oil comprises caprylic / capric triglycerides, a cyclic silicone (e.g., cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane), dimethicone, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octisalate, octocrylene, octylmethoxycinnamate, silicones, triolein, and a mixture thereof.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises 0.01 to 15%, preferably, 0.05 to 12%, more preferably, 0.1 to 10%, and, most preferably, 0.25 to 9% opacifying agent by weight of the composition.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the opacifying agent comprises boron nitride having a mean particle size ranging from 300 nm to 40 microns, preferably, 500 nm to 30 microns, more preferably, 700 nm to 20 microns, and further wherein the boron nitride has an oil absorption capacity of at least 50 g / 100 g, preferably, at least 75 g / 100 g, and, more preferably, from 50 g / 100 g to 200 g / 100 g.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises from 0 to 4%, preferably, 0.02 to 3% antioxidant by weight of the composition, wherein the antioxidant comprises butylated hydroxytoluene, didodecyl 3,3' thiodipropionate, octadecyl di-t-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, polyphenols, or a mixture thereof.

12. A method of providing an antiaging and / or even tone benefit to the skin comprising the steps of:(a) making a color stable cosmetic composition comprising a substituted resorcinol, a functionalized heteroaromatic compound, a retinoic acid precursor, an emulsifying agent,an opacifying agent comprising boron nitride, kaolin, or a mixture thereof, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising oil; and(b) applying the cosmetic composition to skin in need of treatment.

Citation Information

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