Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a high oil content

The fluid cosmetic composition with a high oily phase and low surfactant content addresses the greasy and viscous issues of existing emulsions, offering a stable, comfortable, and skin-friendly makeup and skincare experience.

WO2025202514A1PCT designated stage Publication Date: 2025-10-02CHANEL PARFUMS BEAUTE SAS +2
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Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/EP2025/058666
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2024-03-29
Filing Date
2025-03-28
Publication Date
2025-10-02

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions, particularly oil-in-water emulsions, face challenges with high oil content leading to greasy feel, discomfort, and viscosity issues, while water-in-oil emulsions lack sufficient hydration and comfort, necessitating high surfactant use that can cause skin irritation.

Method used

A fluid cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a high oily phase content (at least 70%) and low surfactant content, stabilized through Apollonian Stacking, allowing for a fluid and stable emulsion with improved skin tolerance and sensory properties.

Benefits of technology

The composition provides a fluid, emollient texture with long-lasting makeup and skincare benefits, maintaining sensory comfort and stability without stickiness or occlusivity, while reducing surfactant-related skin irritation.

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Abstract

The invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion characterized by a high fat phase content and a low surfactant content, which emulsion can be used as a base composition for different skin care and / or makeup compositions.
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Description

[0001]Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a high oil contentField of the invention The present invention relates to a fluid cosmetic composition in the form of an Apollonian oil-in-water emulsion and its preparation process. More particularly, the invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion characterized by a high fatty phase content and a low surfactant content, which can be used as a base composition for various skin care and / or makeup compositions. Technical background For various reasons related in particular to better comfort of use (softness, emollience and others),Current cosmetic compositions are most often in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous oily dispersed phase or a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion consisting of a continuous oily dispersing phase and a discontinuous aqueous dispersed phase. Compositions with a continuous oily phase are often appreciated because they are conformable and do not dry out the skin. However, these compositions often have a greasy feel to the touch, which can be a deterrent for consumers with oily skin. O / W emulsions are preferred because their external aqueous phase gives them a fresher feel when applied to the skin,less greasy and lighter than W / O emulsions. However, they do not provide the comfort and hydration obtained with W / O emulsions since the oil phase content of these cosmetic compositions in the form of an O / W emulsion is generally less than 50% by weight. Indeed, the higher the oil phase content, the more it is necessary to add a high quantity of surfactants to stabilize the emulsion. However, the presence of emulsifiers at high concentrations can lead to problems of discomfort of the composition obtained during application, such as for example a rough or sticky feel, as well as to problems of safety with regard to the skin, eyes and scalp due to a large quantity of emulsifiers. In addition, the higher the oil phase content,the higher the viscosity of the emulsion. As a result, the sensory properties of emulsions comprising a high internal oily phase are not entirely satisfactory. In particular, these compositions have a texture that can be considered too thick and penetration into the skin is too slow. Generally speaking, in the cosmetics field, consumers are constantly looking for breakthrough products, with original, innovative and unexpected textures, and unexpected properties. All kinds of cosmetic product galenics have been developed, ranging from solid formulations to very fluid compositions and gels, to offer users varied textures adapted to their needs. For example, foundations in the form of mousse and thixotropic nail polish have been developed. Cosmetic serums, for example, are very fluid and highly concentrated in active ingredients,are very popular with consumers. They are often made up of an aqueous base to provide a freshness effect when applied, which does not, however, allow the incorporation of sufficient oily phase. Serums are therefore used as a base, and must be supplemented with a cream to provide the desired emollience and comfort. It would therefore be desirable to propose new cosmetic products with a fluid and light texture similar to that of cosmetic serums, making it possible to provide the emollience of a much thicker cream, rich in oily compounds. It is to the applicant's credit to have demonstrated that such products could be obtained by means of emulsions prepared according to a particular process, making it possible to incorporate a high content of oily dispersed phase into an O / W emulsion, without causing an increase in the viscosity of the composition,nor require the addition of a significant amount of emulsifiers to ensure its stability.Summary of the inventionThe present invention relates firstly to a fluid cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising:- an emulsifying system comprising at least one surfactant;- a dispersed oily phase;- an aqueous continuous phase, in which:- the content of the oily phase is at least 70%, in particular at least 75%, in particular at least 80%; and - the weight ratio of the oily phase to the emulsifying system is greater than 45, in particular greater than 70, in particular greater than 100, even more particularly greater than 120, preferably greater than 140, preferably greater than 150, even more preferably greater than 160. When formulated as a lip makeup composition,the composition according to the invention makes it possible to propose an alternative to “tint” type compositions. Tint products are very popular with consumers of lip products, particularly in the Asian market, which has mastered this type of formulation. These are water-based formulas allowing the addition of colorants (=dyes). The colorants have the particularity and specificity of “tinting”, lastingly coloring the lips. These products therefore provide long-lasting makeup color and excellent non-transfer properties because the colorants attach to the skin and / or the lips and do not transfer as can be the case with pigments. However, it is known that tint products are very drying and uncomfortable because they are composed mainly of water and contain little emollient fatty phase. The implementation of the invention which is the subject of the present application in lip coloring compositions thus makes it possible to propose tint-type textures,presenting a cocooning, rich and emollient texture bringing a new dimension of care for a lip makeup product that is usually drying. Another advantage is linked to the implementation of a very small quantity of surfactant which therefore improves the skin tolerance of the emulsion, especially for a lip product when we know that it is a fragile area. But even more, it is a buccal area for which part of the deposited product is ingested. It is even more important that the level of surfactant in the formula is in the smallest possible quantity, to limit ingestion. When formulated as a complexion product, the composition according to the invention offers an interesting alternative to the products currently on the market, which are mainly W / O or W / Si (water-in-silicone) emulsions. Today, complexion products must meet different requirements both in terms of makeup results and skincare benefits. Thus,Nowadays, foundation must respect the skin, have a soft, non-sticky, or even occlusive feel. In addition, high coverage and long-lasting wear are increasingly demanded by consumers. However, covering foundation products have the particularity of being too present, a little too sticky due to the high percentage of pigments introduced, and the content and nature of the emulsifiers used, which are often very viscosifying. The implementation of the invention which is the subject of the present application in foundation compositions advantageously makes it possible to maintain a very appreciable fluidity, while allowing a high level of pigment to be introduced. In addition, due to its high oil concentration, the compositions of the invention make it possible to introduce a skincare dimension. In addition, they offer a very good "play time" of the foundation upon application,that is to say that the foundation can be worked for a sufficiently long time during application. The invention therefore makes it possible to increase the performance of the makeup in coverage while maintaining sensoriality and comfort of the skin without stickiness or occlusivity. Compared to W / Si foundations, it offers an alternative that is more respectful of the skin and the environment. The present invention makes it possible to meet the needs expressed above by providing a composition in the form of an O / W emulsion of the “Apollonian” type, hereinafter referred to as “Apollonian emulsion”. An O / W Apollonian emulsion is an emulsion with a high internal phase ratio (HIPE),comprising a dispersed oily phase which is very predominant compared to the continuous aqueous phase. The metastability of this type of emulsion is achieved thanks to the phenomenon of "coalescence-fragmentation" when the distribution of the globules of the emulsion corresponds to that of the Apollonian Stacking. In other words, the metastability induced by interfaces not saturated with surfactant can be sufficient to stabilize very polydisperse emulsions,called Apollonian. As a result, these emulsions can be stable while containing relatively low surfactant contents. This specific "globular" configuration Apollonian Stacking - advantageously gives the emulsion a very high fluidity despite the high content of fatty phase as well as a particularly innovative rheology. The emulsion can in particular be in the form of a fluid milk whose appearance and texture transform into an oil when applied to the skin. Obtaining this distribution of the globules of the dispersed phase in the emulsion corresponding to that of an Apollonian Stacking (at the origin of the fluidity of Apollonian emulsions) distinguishes Apollonian emulsions from HIPE emulsions known to those skilled in the art,which certainly have a very high dispersed phase content but have a much thicker texture. The fluidity of Apollonian O / W emulsions is similar to the behavior of Newtonian fluids in that their texture, in particular their viscosity, does not vary or varies little when the emulsion is subjected to a reasonable shear stress (before being applied to keratin materials, where it then breaks). In particular, the Apollonian emulsions of the invention are distinguished from the HIPE compositions of the prior art in that they are fluid from the outset, and not only during their application. In addition, the preparation of these Apollonian O / W emulsions requires very little water, and therefore makes it possible to obtain “eco-designed” cosmetic compositions, preserving water resources. Preferably,they are formulated without "ethoxylated" surfactants which are criticized for their environmental impact. The Apollonian O / W emulsions developed by the inventors are therefore particularly advantageous in that they are fluid, stable and rich in oil phase. They are therefore, due to their fluidity, particularly easy to apply to the skin and offer a specific sensoriality not previously known. In addition, the high concentration of fatty phase allows a small amount of product to be applied to a large area of ​​the skin. Finally, the low amount of surfactant contained in the emulsions improves the tolerance of the product. Furthermore, used in makeup, particularly in lipstick or foundation, these fluid emulsions are particularly advantageous in that they allow a high level of pigment to be introduced into the oil phase, while providing a skin care dimension. Used to formulate perfume products,the Apollonian H / W emulsions of the invention allow a strong persistence of the perfume, in particular to increase the persistence of the perfume compared to perfume compositions presented in other galenic forms (in particular having an alcoholic base). Thus, according to one embodiment, the present invention also relates to a fluid perfume in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising:- an emulsifying system comprising at least one surfactant;- a dispersed oily phase;- an aqueous continuous phase, in which:- the content of the oily phase is at least 70%, in particular at least 75%, in particular at least 80%; and - the weight ratio of the oily phase to the emulsifying system is greater than 45, in particular greater than 70, in particular greater than 100, even more in particular greater than 120,the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The term "perfume" means a product in liquid form intended to perfume an individual after spraying or applying it to the skin, hair or clothing. Such a product is not rinsed after application. The present invention also relates to a process for preparing a fluid cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising the steps of: i) Preparation of an aqueous phase comprising an emulsifying system; ii) Stirring the aqueous phase obtained, in particular at a speed of between 150 and 1000 rpm, in particular between 200 and 900 rpm, preferably between 150 and 600 rpm; iii) Injection, into the aqueous phase maintained under stirring, of an oily phase at a constant discontinuous flow rate making it possible to disperse the oily phase in the aqueous phase, the content of said oily phase being at least 70%, in particular at least 75%,in particular at least 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the weight ratio of the oily phase to the emulsifying system being greater than 45, in particular greater than 70, in particular greater than 100, even more in particular greater than 120, preferably greater than 140, preferably greater than 150, even more preferably greater than 160. Brief description of the figures [Fig. 1] Particle size analysis of the emulsions F 088 and F098 prepared according to Example 1, showing a distribution of the size of the droplets as a function of their volume. Detailed description The invention is now described in more detail and in a non-limiting manner in the description which follows. Unless otherwise indicated, all percentages relating to quantities are percentages by mass. Cosmetic compositions in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion Thus, according to a first aspect,the invention relates to a fluid cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising:- an emulsifying system comprising at least one surfactant;- a dispersed oily phase;- an aqueous continuous phase, in which: the content of the oily phase is at least 70%, in particular at least 75%, in particular at least 80%; and - the weight ratio of the oily phase to the emulsifying system may be greater than 45, in particular greater than 70, in particular greater than 100, even more in particular greater than 120, preferably greater than 140, preferably greater than 150, even more preferably greater than 160, the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the purposes of the present application, the term "fluid cosmetic composition" means a composition which flows under its own weight at room temperature. According to a preferred embodiment of realization,the "fluid cosmetic composition" according to the invention flows under its own weight in less than 10 seconds at room temperature. The "fluid cosmetic composition" according to the invention is distinguished from any "solid" composition, of the "gel", "cream" type, etc., and in particular from creams which transform into oil upon application, conventionally obtained with conventional HIPE emulsions. Thus, the compositions according to the invention are relatively fluid and in particular have a relatively low viscosity. The viscosity of the Apollonian O / W emulsions according to the invention can be measured in particular according to the procedure described in the experimental part. As indicated in the present description, the viscosity of the emulsion refers to a viscosity measured at 20°C with an RM 100 TOUCH CP 2000 viscometer from Lamy Rheology, a rotary viscometer equipped with a cone-plate whose characteristics are a cone of 40 mm in diameter,4° angle + 40mm plane. The accuracy is + / - 1% of full scale with a repeatability of + / - 0.2%. The texture of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is fluid and can be characterized by measuring their firmness through a texturometer. The firmness can be measured according to the procedure described in the experimental part, with an SMS TA-TX PLUS TEXUROMETER using a two-step method. The firmness can be measured in grams. According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized by a firmness of less than 14g, in particular between 1g and 14g, preferably between 2g and 10g, even more preferably between 3g and 6g. The viscosity of the emulsion may in particular be less than 2.5 Pa.s, in particular 2Pa.s, and in particular 1.5 Pa.s measured at a temperature of 20°C and a shear rate of 100 s, -1.According to one embodiment, the viscosity of the emulsion is greater than 1.5 Pa.s and less than 2.5 Pa.s measured at a temperature of 20°C and at a shear rate of 100 s-1.According to another embodiment, the viscosity of the emulsion is greater than 2 Pa.s and less than 2.5 Pa.s measured at a temperature of 20°C and at a shear rate of 100 s -1. Emulsifying system The compositions according to the invention comprise an emulsifying system which may comprise or consist of one or more surfactants. According to embodiments, the emulsifying system is soluble, and in particular solubilized, in the aqueous continuous phase. The quantity of the emulsifying system used in the emulsion is very low compared to that of the oily dispersed phase. Thus, the weight ratio of the oily phase to the emulsifying system may be greater than 45, in particular greater than 70, in particular greater than 100, even more particularly greater than 120. According to one embodiment, the weight ratio of the oily phase to the emulsifying system is greater than 140, preferably greater than 150, even more preferably greater than 160. The weight ratio of the oily phase to the emulsifying system is generally less than 400, in particular less than 390, in particular less than 350.According to embodiments, the content of the emulsifying system is less than 2% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to embodiments, said at least one surfactant is ionic or non-ionic. According to embodiments, said at least one surfactant has an HLB of between 10 and 18, in particular between 12 and 16. According to embodiments, the surfactant does not comprise an “ethoxylated” chain and more particularly is not an alkyl ether of polyoxyethylene. According to embodiments, the surfactant is non-ionic and is in particular chosen from fatty acid esters of glycerol, alkylglucosides, saponins, lipopeptides, or mixtures thereof.The fatty acid esters of glycerol may be chosen in particular from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate or distearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty acid ester of glycerol is polyglyceryl-10 laurate sold under the name S-Face 10 GL® by IWASE COSFA or under the name NIKKOL Decaglyn 1-L by NIKKO CHEMICALS. Preferably, the fatty acid ester of glycerol is polyglyceryl-10 stearate sold under the name EMULGADE VERDE® by BASF. Preferably, the fatty acid ester of glycerol is also the mixture of polyglyceryl-10 stearate and polyglyceryl-10 oleate marketed under the name MIZOAN SOLUBIL ORG-1300 by IWASE COSFA. The saponins may be chosen in particular from saponins derived from the extraction of tea seeds marketed under the name Saponin+ by LESSONIA.Lipopeptides composed of amino acids and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from surfactins and more particularly sodium surfactin marketed under the name KANEKA SURFACTIN CX by KANEKA. According to embodiments, the surfactant is ionic, in particular anionic. It is chosen in particular from geminal surfactants such as sodium dilauramidoglutamidelysine marketed under the name Pellicer® L-30 or potassium cetyl phosphate marketed under the name Amphisol K®. By "geminal surfactant", is meant in the context of the present invention, compounds comprising two hydrophilic heads and two hydrophobic tails linked together by a spacer. As an example of a geminal surfactant, mention may in particular be made of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine marketed under the name Pellicer® L-30 by PRESPERSE.According to embodiments, the emulsifying system comprises a fatty acid ester of glycerol, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, and / or saponins. Oily dispersed phaseThe O / W emulsions according to the invention are characterized by a high oily phase content. This may be in particular at most 87%, in particular at most 85%, in particular at most 80%. According to embodiments, the content by weight of the oily phase may be between 70% and 87%, in particular between 75% and 85%, relative to the total weight of the composition. The oily dispersed phase of the compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more oils miscible with each other.For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a compound which has a lipophilic character and which, when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight into water at 20°C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a level of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water. The "oil" for the purposes of the present description may be in the form of a liquid, a paste or a solid at 20°C. Preferably, it is an oil which is liquid at 20°C. The definition of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of HANSEN are described in the article by C.M. HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).According to this Hansen space: - δD characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular collisions; -δP characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KÉESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; -δh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) These three parameters can be treated as the coordinates of a three-dimensional point in Hansen space. The closer the solvents are in this three-dimensional space, the more likely these solvents are to dissolve in each other. They are based on the affinity of the molecules for each other "like dissolves like". The parameters δD, δP, δh are expressed in (MPa). 1 / 2 , unit equivalent to (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2Hansen solubility parameters are calculated using HSPiP software version V5.3.06 from a chemical structure; the method selected in the software is Y-MB or Yamamoto-Molecular Break. This software is available for download via the official Hansen parameters and HSPiP software website at www.hansen-solubility.com. Log Kow or LogP, is a measure of the differential solubility of molecules in water and octanol; P is the octanol / water partition coefficient. LogP = Log(Coct / Cwater). This value allows us to understand the hydrophilic or lipophilic character of the molecule. If the LogP is positive and very high, the molecule considered is much more soluble in octanol than in water, which reflects its lipophilic character and conversely, if the Log P is negative it means that the molecule considered is hydrophilic. A zero LogP means that the molecule is soluble in both solvents. Preferably,the oils used according to the present invention have a LogP greater than 0. According to embodiments, the oily phase comprises at least one polar oil, preferably non-volatile. Preferably, the polar oil content represents at least 45% by weight, in particular from 45% to 87% by weight, in particular from 75% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. By "polar oil", for the purposes of the present invention, is meant an oil whose chemical structure is formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom. Preferably, the polar oils used according to the present invention have a δP of between 2 and 4 (J / cm3)1 / 2, preferably a δP of between 2.5 and 3.7 (J / cm3)1 / 2, even better between 3 and 3.5 (J / cm3)1 / 2.Polar oil (H1) Preferably,the polar oil comprises at least one polar oil H1 chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid triglycerides or dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, and mixtures thereof. The fatty alcohols are in particular alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carbon chain, having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms, even better from 18 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, or isostearyl alcohol. Preferably, the fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol, marketed under the name Eutanol G ® by INOLEX. Fatty acid triglycerides consist of a glycerol residue esterified by three fatty acid residues, the chain lengths of which can vary from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched,saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acid triglycerides may be chosen in particular from capric and / or caprylic acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the name DUB MCT 5545 by STEARINERIE DUBOIS or triheptanoin, the latter being marketed under the name Sustoléo MCT® by BASF. Preferably, the di-alkyl carbonate, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, is dicaprylyl carbonate. It is marketed in particular under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis. According to embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar oil (H1) chosen from octyldodecanol, capric and / or caprylic acid triglycerides, triheptanoin, dicaprylyl carbonate or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the polar oil (H1) represents at least 20% by weight of the composition,in particular from 25% to 80% of the composition. Additional polar oils (H2) The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more other polar oils (additional polar oil or polar oil (H2). These additional polar oils (H2) may represent from 0% to 40% by weight of the composition, in particular from 1 to 30% by weight of the composition. According to embodiments, the weight ratio of the polar oil (H2) / (H1) is less than or equal to 1. According to embodiments, for example when the cosmetic composition is a non-therapeutic skin care composition, the weight ratio (H2) / (H1) may in particular be between 0.01 and 0.5, in particular between 0.05 and 0.1. According to other embodiments, in particular when the cosmetic composition is a perfume or a makeup product, the weight ratio (H2) / (H1) may in particular be between 0.1 and 1, in particular between 0.3 and 0.9. The additional polar oils (H2) that may be present in the compositions of the invention are preferably non-volatile. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mm Hg), at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Conversely, the term "volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 0.13 Pa (0.01 mm Hg), at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The additional oils (H2) may in particular be chosen from hydrocarbon oils. They are chosen from polar oils other than polar oils (H1). As additional hydrocarbon polar oils suitable for implementing the invention, mention may in particular be made of:- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin:- such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate,physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutanate, for example sold under the name ELDEW PS203® by AJINOMOTO, -cranberry, chia, hibiscus, camellia, meadowfoam, sunflower, rapeseed, castor, jojoba, shea, sweet almond, argan, avocado, olive, soybean, corn, apricot, castor, camelina oils, shea butter, - synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of R1 and R2 is greater than or equal to 10. esters may be chosen in particular from esters, in particular of fatty acid such as for example cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol and of C8-C18 fatty acid, preferably C12-C16 such as isopropyl palmitate,ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, , hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate,diisostearyl malate;- hydrogenated esters of natural oils such as jojoba esters and rapeseed esters,- polyesters of polyols other than fatty acid triglycerides, in particular pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, or Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate such as LEXFEEL 700 MB marketed by the company INOLEX having the INCI name polyester-4, - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof,- diesters of C2-C16, preferably C8-C12, dicarboxylic acid and C1-C4 monoalcohol, preferably C3-C4 branched monoalcohol; preferably the diester of sebacic acid and isopropyl alcohol such as diisopropyl sebacate marketed under the name DUB DIS by the company Stéarineries Dubois or marketed under the name SchercemolDIS ester by LUBRIZOL,- butylene glycol diesters such as butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate marketed under the name Dermofeel® BGC by Dr. Straetmanns,- sucrose esters such as sucrose acetate isobutyrate marketed under the name Sustane SAIB by EASTMAN,- phytosterols marketed under the name TECHNOL SD by YOKOZEKI,- resins such as Shorea Robusta resin exudates marketed under the name Kahlresin 6723 by KAHLWAX,- esters of natural diglycerin with medium-chain fatty acids such as BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 marketed under the name SOFTISAN 649 by IOI OLEO, perfuming substances. Polar oils (H2) can be chosen from so-called perfuming, odoriferous substances, capable of releasing a pleasant odor and which can be used in perfumes. Preferably, the perfume substance is a natural or synthetic substance,more preferably natural. More preferably, it is chosen from essential oils, terpenes and terpenoids. By "terpenes" we mean hydrocarbons whose basic element is isoprene, their crude formula comprising a number of carbons multiple of 5, in particular terpenes containing in particular 10 or 15 carbon atoms, used in perfumery. By "terpenoids" we mean derivatives of terpenes, for example alcohols, phenols, ketones, aldehydes, esters or ethers. Terpenes and terpenoids are contained in "essential oils", designating the concentrated, odoriferous, volatile liquid produced by plants. Essential oils are most often extracted from the organs of the plant by hydrodistillation. In particular, the following natural hydrophobic perfuming substances can be used: - terpenes: pinenes, camphenes, limonene, cadinene, carene, caryophyllene, - alcohols: linalool, geraniol, menthol,citronellol,- ketones: menthone, carvone, beta-ionone, thujone, camphor, cyclopentadecanone,- aldehydes: citral, citrannal, citronellal, cinnamic aldehyde, lilial,- esters: linalyl acetate, menthyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl succinate,- phenols: thymol, carvacrol, eugenol, isoeugenol,- ethers: anethole, eucalyptol, cineol, rose oxide,- alkenes: limonene.Essential oils can be ylang-ylang, bergamot, eucalyptus, lavender, lavandin, lemongrass, patchouli, peppermint, pine, rose, coriander, Shiu, sage, geranium, palmarosa, LitseaCubeba, lemon, lemongrass, orange blossom, grapefruit, lime, mandarin, tangerine, orange, cajuput, camphor, rosemary, green anise, star anise, fennel, basil, tarragon, clove, chili, thyme, sassafras, wormwood, mugwort, cedar, hyssop, tagetes, rue, elemi, galbanum,juniper berries, cabreuva, guaiac wood, sandalwood, vetiver, ambrette, angelica, iris rhizome, carrot, celery, cumin, lovage, parsley, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, nutmeg, pepper, frankincense, myrrh, Peruvian balsam, styrax, buchu, chamomile or cistus (Jean Garnero, "Essential oils", Techniques de l'ingénieur, Traité constantes physico-chimiques, K-345). -their mixtures.Additional non-polar oils (H3)The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional non-polar oils (H3), distinct from the aforementioned polar oils.By "non-polar oil", for the purposes of the present invention, is meant an oil whose parameter δP as defined above is less than 2 (J / cm, 3 ) 1 / 2, preferably a δP less than 1, even better less than 0.5. Non-polar oils can be volatile or non-volatile. Non-volatile apolar oils Among the non-volatile apolar oils, mention may be made, for example, of hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as, for example:- squalane, phytosqualane and their mixtures.- esters and polyesters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleyl diol dimers marketed under the names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7® by the company Nippon Fine Chemical,- copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as HailuscentISDA marketed by KOKAYA ALCOHOL,- esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer, where appropriate esterified on their free or acid alcohol function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals,in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may be chosen in particular from esters having the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / lsostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), Phytosteryl / lsostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H) marketed by NIPPON FINE CHEMICALS - polybutenes such as for example INDOPOL H-100 (having a molar mass of 965g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (having a molar mass of 1340g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (having a molar mass of 2160g / mol) marketed by the company INEOS. Volatile apolar oils Volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane; volatile linear alkanes having C9-C17, C10-C14 hydrocarbon chains, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane,marketed by BASF under the name Cetiol® Ultimate; alkanes having C15-C19 hydrocarbon chains such as those marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen L15, alkanes having C12-14 hydrocarbon chains, such as those marketed by Biosynthis under the name Vegelight 1214LC, or alkanes having C9-C12 hydrocarbon chains such as those marketed by Daito under the name Makigreen D10. Preferably, the apolar oil (H3) is chosen from volatile apolar oils, even better the apolar oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin, in particular linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, in particular alkanes having hydrocarbon chains from C9 to C19. In a preferred embodiment, the apolar oil is squalane. According to a particular embodiment of the invention,the apolar oil (H3) is chosen from esters of a diol dimer and a diacid dimer. Preferably, the content by weight of polar oil, in particular of oils (H1) and (H2) in the composition, is predominant compared to that of apolar oil (H3). Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 40% by weight of apolar oil (H3) relative to the weight of the composition, preferably less than 30% by weight, in particular less than 20% by weight, even better less than 10% by weight of apolar oil (H3) relative to the weight of the composition, or even the composition is free of apolar oil (H3). Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an additional non-volatile or volatile polar (H2) or apolar (H3) oil chosen from: • linear or branched C8-C30 alkanes, in particular squalane, isododecane, undecane, or tridecane, • hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, in particular cranberry oil,Camellia oil, sunflower oil, chia oil, castor oil, Jojoba oil, hibiscus oil; • Fatty acid esters and ethers; Camellia esters, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate (Dermofeel BGC), diisopropyl sebacate (Schercemol DIS ESTER); • Polyol esters, especially pentaerythritol esters, especially LEXFEEL 700 (Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate). or mixtures thereof. Preferred O / W emulsionsAccording to embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises:- at least one polar oil (H1) chosen from octyldodecanol, capric and / or caprylic acid triglycerides, triheptanoin, dicaprylyl carbonate or a mixture thereof, and - at least one additional polar oil (H2), in particular non-volatile, chosen from Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, Camellia oil,sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, cranberry oil, and optionally - a non-polar oil (H3) chosen from squalane, alkanes, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, bis-behenyl / lsostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / lsostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H) or a perfume. According to embodiments, the composition comprises from 70% to 87% by weight, in particular from 75% to 80% by weight, of a polar oil (H1), preferably fatty acid triglyceride, in particular triheptanoin, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to embodiments, the composition comprises from 0% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% of an additional polar oil (H2), preferably polyol esters, in particular pentaerythritol esters, in particular Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to embodiments,for example when the composition is a non-therapeutic skin care composition, the composition according to the invention comprises:- at least one polar oil (H1), representing from 60 to 80% by weight of the composition; in particular from 65 to 75% by weight of the composition;- at least one additional polar oil (H2), representing from 0 to 20% by weight of the composition; in particular from 1 to 10% of the composition and optionally- a non-polar oil (H3), representing from 0 to 10% by weight of the composition; in particular from 1 to 5% of the composition, it being understood that the sum of the percentages by weight of the oils (H1), (H2) and (H3) is at least 70%, in particular between 70% and 87% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to other embodiments, for example when the composition is a perfume composition, the composition according to the invention comprises:- at least one polar oil (H1),representing from 25 to 35% by weight of the composition; in particular from 27 to 32% by weight of the composition;- at least one additional polar oil (H2), representing from 20 to 40% by weight of the composition; in particular from 25 to 35% of the composition, and optionally- a non-polar oil (H3), representing from 10 to 30% by weight of the composition; in particular from 15 to 25% of the composition, it being understood that the sum of the percentages by weight of the oils (H1), (H2) and (H3) is at least 70%, in particular between 70% and 87% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to other embodiments, for example when the composition is a makeup composition, the composition according to the invention comprises:- at least one polar oil (H1), representing from 20 to 40% by weight of the composition; in particular from 25 to 35% by weight of the composition;- at least one additional polar oil (H2),representing from 10 to 40% by weight of the composition; in particular from 15 to 30% of the composition and optionally - a non-polar oil (H3), representing from 15 to 40% by weight of the composition; in particular from 20 to 35% of the composition. it being understood that the sum of the percentages by weight of the oils (H1), (H2) and (H3) is at least 70%, in particular between 70% and 87% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to embodiments, the oily phase of the composition comprises triheptanoin, capric / caprylic triglycerides, octyldodecanol, dicaprylcarbonate or their mixture and the emulsifying system comprises a fatty acid ester of glycerol or sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine. Aqueous continuous phase The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous continuous phase. The weight content of the aqueous phase is very small compared to that of the oily phase. The aqueous continuous phase preferably comprises water,preferably demineralized.Preferably, the aqueous continuous phase contains the emulsifying system. The aqueous phase, including the emulsifying system, represents at most 30% by weight, in particular at most 25% by weight, and more particularly at most 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It represents in particular from 13% to 30% by weight of the weight of the composition, in particular from 15% to 25% by weight. Other ingredients of the composition The cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably comprise at least one ingredient chosen from a cosmetic active agent, a perfume, a coloring matter, a humectant, a filler, a preservative, a sequestering agent, a UV filter, a film-forming agent or a thickening agent, or a mixture thereof.Cosmetic active agent The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more active agent(s) of natural origin,biotechnological or synthetic having biological activity and having efficacy on the skin via biological sites, for example chosen from vitamins such as vitamin C and its derivatives (ascorbyl glucoside, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin B3 or Niacinamide, panthenol, trace elements, allantoin, adenosine, peptides (Palmitoyltetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5), plant extracts (glycyrrhiza glabrat extract, centella asiatica leaf extract, rye seed extract), yeast extracts, alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic or lactic acid, tranexamic acid and its derivatives such as cetyl tranexamic acid ester etc. Said active agent may be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0,1 to 10% by total weight of the composition. Perfume The cosmetic composition may comprise a perfume. This may be chosen from the perfuming substances cited among the polar oils (H2), as indicated above. Coloring matter The composition may also comprise at least one coloring matter chosen from the group comprising water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, particles having the effect of coloring and / or opacifying the composition, such as pigments, pearlescent agents, lakes (water-soluble dyes adsorbed on an inert inorganic support), and mixtures thereof. These coloring matters may optionally be surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent such as fatty acid soaps, lecithins, carnauba waxes, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoylglutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate. According to a preferred embodiment,the coloring matter is a water-soluble dye. In this embodiment, the water-soluble dye is introduced into the aqueous continuous phase of the emulsion according to the present invention. The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0.005% to 1% of dyes, preferably from 0.05% to 0.5%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The pigments may be inorganic or organic and natural or synthetic. Examples of inorganic pigments include iron, titanium or zinc oxides, ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, manganese violet, chromium oxide, as well as composite pigments and goniochromatic, pearlescent, interference, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, without this list being limiting. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of Red 7, Red 6, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Blue 1, Red 22, Red 28, Red 30, Red 33, Red 36, carbon black,lakes based on barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or even diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96 / 08537. The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 30% of pigments, preferably from 2% to 20%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The nacres (or pearlescent agents) can be chosen from those conventionally present in makeup products, such as products based on mica / titanium dioxide. They can also be products based on mica / silica / titanium dioxide, based on synthetic fluorophlogopite / titanium dioxide (Sunshine® from Maprecos), based on sodium calcium borosilicate / titanium dioxide (Reflecks® from Engelhard) or based on calcium and aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (Ronastar® from Merck). The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 20% of nacres,preferably from 0% to 10%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Just like the fillers, the cosmetic materials are advantageously in powder form. Humectant A humectant is understood to mean a compound comprising at least two hydrophilic groups, i.e. groups which form hydrogen bonds with water molecules, such as, for example, hydroxyl, amine and / or carboxyl groups. A suitable humectant in the cosmetic composition of the invention is in particular chosen from the group comprising polyols, sugars, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid and its salts and esters, monoalcohols such as ethanol. Among the polyols, we can cite in particular glycerol (or glycerin), diglycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, propylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol, propanediol,methyl propanediol.According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the humectant is a polyol, in particular glycerol. The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 10% of humectant, preferably from 1% to 6% of humectant, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Filler By filler is meant colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, solid particles of any shape, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. The fillers can be mineral or organic and of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic shape (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic,etc). The fillers may consist of several layers of different chemical nature and / or physical form and may be produced in the form of lamellae coated with spherical fillers. They may be modified using different surface treatments. The filler that may be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is chosen from the group comprising mica, silica, kaolin, boron nitride, lauroyllysine, sericite, cellulose beads, glass beads, starch, starch modified with octenylsuccinic anhydride, and mixtures thereof. The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 25% of filler, preferably from 2% to 10%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The fillers are advantageously in powder form. Preservative The cosmetic composition may also comprise a preservative,in particular chosen from the group comprising phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, sodium dehydroacetate, chlorphenesin, parabens such as methylparaben or propylparaben, and mixtures thereof. The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises from 0% to 2% of preservative, preferably from 0.1% to 1%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Sequestering agent The composition of the invention may also comprise a sequestering agent, such as salts of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its derivatives. UV filter The composition of the invention may further comprise a UV filter chosen from the group comprising organic filters, inorganic filters and mixtures thereof. Examples of organic filters include dibenzoylmethane derivatives (including butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane), salicylates, para-aminobenzoic acids, β,β-diphenylacrylates, benzophenones, benzylidenecamphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazoles, triazines, phenylbenzotriazoles, benzoxazole derivatives, aminosubstituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivatives and / or anthranilic derivatives. The more particularly preferred organic UV filters are chosen from the following compounds: -Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,- Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane- Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol- Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine- Tris-biphenyl triazine- Phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine- 2,4-bis[5-1 (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine- Ethylhexyl triazone,- Diethylhexyl butamido triazone- Ethylhexyl salicylate,- Homosalate- Octocrylene,- Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid. Mention may in particular be made, as inorganic filters, of:filters based on inorganic oxides in the form of pigments or nanopigments which may or may not be coated, and in particular based on titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Film-forming agent The composition of the invention may comprise one or more film-forming agent(s). They may be chosen from- polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, in particular chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, elemis, cellulose polymers, polymers extracted from the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or from the algae Kappaphycus alvarezii marketed under the name FILMEXEL by SILAB, and mixtures thereof. Said film-forming agent may be present in a content of the order of 0 to 50%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Gelling agent The composition of the invention may comprise one or more gelling and / or thickening agents of the aqueous phase, chosen for example from cellulose derivatives,gums of plant origin (guar, carob, alginates, carrageenans, pectins), of microbial origin (xanthan), clays (laponite), homo- and copolymers, crosslinked or not, hydrophilic or amphiphilic, of acryloylmethylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) and / or acrylamide and / or acrylic acid and / or salts or esters of acrylic acid (such as Ammonium AMP / VP Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / AMPS Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / AMPS Copolymer, Acrylamide / AMPS Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, sodium polyacrylate). Said gelling agent and / or thickener of the aqueous phase may be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 10% by total weight of the composition. The composition of the invention may comprise one or more gelling and / or thickening agents of the oily phase, chosen for example from ethylcellulose; polyamides, bentones,galactommanans such as guar gum, N-acyl glutamic acid diamides such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, dextrin esters such as dextrin palmitate, polymers derived from castor oil marketed under the name Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer or Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer, sucrose polyesters such as glyceryl behenate eicosadioate, Said gelling and / or thickening agent of the oily phase will be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0.1 to 10% by total weight of the composition. Examples of additives that can be added to the cosmetic compositions of the invention are described in particular in the CTFA dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) and in the Handbook published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, 9th Edition,2002 ». Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary usual cosmetic ingredients, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. The composition of the invention is in the form of a stable fluid oil-in-water emulsion, with a homogeneous appearance. By stable is meant an emulsion which does not release water or oil and which remains in its initial form, even when exposed to ovens at a temperature between 5°C and 45°C for 3 months. By homogeneous appearance is meant an emulsion whose surface is smooth and uniform to the eye. The composition according to the invention can be advantageously used for cleaning,non-therapeutic care and / or makeup of the skin or lips.The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or non-therapeutic care of the skin or lips, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin or lips a composition as defined above. Process for preparing the composition according to the invention According to another aspect, the invention relates to a process for preparing a fluid cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising the steps of: i) Preparation of an aqueous phase comprising an emulsifying system; ii) Stirring the aqueous phase obtained, in particular at a speed of between 150 rpm and 1000 rpm, in particular between 150 rpm and 600 rpm; iii) Injection, into the aqueous phase maintained under stirring,of an oily phase at a constant discontinuous flow rate making it possible to disperse the oily phase in the aqueous phase and obtain an increase in viscosity up to a maximum value of less than 2 Pa.s, leading to a fluid composition, said viscosity being measured at a temperature of 20°C and a shear rate of 100 s, -1. In step i), the aqueous phase can be prepared by mixing the emulsifying system with any optional ingredients present in the aqueous phase, preferably at a temperature between 18°C ​​and 70°C. In step ii), the aqueous phase is stirred and maintained at a temperature between 18°C ​​and 70°C. The stirring can in particular be carried out using a bidirectional three-blade. The oily phase can be prepared by mixing the oil(s) with any optional ingredients, in particular at a temperature between 18 and 75°C. The mixture can be stirred and maintained at a temperature between 20 and 70°C. This process can be transposed to an industrial scale with a Trimix. In step iii), depending on the quantities of emulsion to be prepared, the oily phase can be injected into the aqueous phase using a syringe pump or a peristaltic pump so as to obtain a discontinuous flow rate, of the regular and slow drop-by-drop type.It has been observed by the applicant that such an addition, carried out discontinuously, of the regular and slow drop-by-drop type, is important in order to be able to obtain an Apollonian emulsion. Thus, the process of the present invention differs from certain processes known in the prior art for the production of HIPE emulsions in which the addition of the dispersed phase is carried out continuously and leads to textures much thicker than the Apollonian emulsions which are the subject of the present invention. For example, to prepare 400g of Apollonian emulsion comprising 83% by weight of dispersed oily phase, the oily phase can be injected into the aqueous phase by means of a peristaltic pump with a flow rate of 9 L / h, with a 16mm diameter tubing. In the context of the invention, it is the oily dispersed phase which is added at a constant discontinuous flow rate into the aqueous continuous phase.This process also differs from processes of the prior art in which H / W type HIPE emulsions are obtained by discontinuous addition of the aqueous phase into the oily phase, then inversion of phases with vigorous stirring which also leads to an increase in the firmness of the compositions and does not allow fluid compositions to be obtained. According to a preferred embodiment, the stable emulsion obtained at the end of step iii) does not undergo any stirring step at a stirring speed higher than the stirring speed used in step ii) and / or iii). In particular, the stable emulsion obtained at the end of step iii) does not undergo any stirring step at a stirring speed higher than approximately 6000 rpm, preferably higher than 8000 rpm, and more preferably higher than 10,000 rpm.Indeed, without being bound by any theory, it was observed by the applicant during its research work that too high a stirring speed when adding the oily phase to the aqueous phase or after the formation of the emulsion led to a thickening of the composition, so as to no longer obtain a desired fluid emulsion. Thus, in order to be able to obtain a fluid emulsion, it is important not to significantly increase the stirring speed of the emulsion resulting from step iii) and, more particularly, not to exceed 6000 rpm, preferably 8000 rpm, and more preferably 10,000 rpm. The process parameters such as the stirring speed or the injection rate of the oily phase can be easily adjusted by a person skilled in the art depending on the production volumes and / or the equipment used.On a macroscopic scale, the Apollonian emulsion formed appears as an opaque, white (in the absence of dyes or pigments), smooth and shiny emulsion having the appearance of milk which transforms upon application by becoming transparent. The formation of the Apollonian emulsion can be determined or confirmed by examining the polydispersity of the droplets of the oily dispersed phase under a microscope. The Apollonian emulsion is generally characterized by droplets with spherical geometry, without apparent deformation. The compositions according to the invention are generally polydisperse, that is to say that the size of the droplets of the emulsion is very variable.The particle size analyzer gives the different values ​​of droplet diameter D10, D50 and D90 where by droplet diameter D10 is meant the droplet diameter for which 90% of the total population of droplets in the emulsion have a diameter greater than or equal to this value, and by D90 is meant the droplet diameter for which 10% of the total population of droplets in the emulsion have a diameter greater than this value. In other words, the particle size analyzer gives the different values ​​of droplet diameter D10, D50 and D90 where D10 represents the droplet diameter for which 10% of the total population of droplets in the emulsion have a diameter equal to or less than this value, and by D90 is meant the droplet diameter for which 90% of the total population of droplets in the emulsion have a diameter less than this value. By Span is meant the measurement of the width of the distribution of droplet diameters.The Span is defined according to the following equation: Span = (D90 - D10) / D50 If the Span is close to 0, this means that the size of the droplets is homogeneous and that the emulsion is monodisperse. If the span is greater than 1, this means that the size of the droplets is heterogeneous and therefore that the emulsion is polydisperse. According to embodiments, the compositions according to the invention are characterized by a span > 1. This particle size can be studied in particular using laser diffraction, for example with a Malvern Mastersizer 3000 Static Light Scattering device. According to embodiments, the volume particle size distribution of the compositions according to the invention comprises droplet sizes ranging from: - from 600 nm to 1000 µm, in particular for skincare and perfume compositions; - from 300 nm to 1000 µm, in particular for makeup compositions.According to preferred embodiments, the particle size distribution of the compositions according to the invention can be measured by volume. The particle size distribution by volume makes it possible to assess another characteristic of the compositions according to the invention: the multimodal nature of the droplet size distribution. A multimodal distribution is a distribution having several modes, i.e. several local maxima of the distribution. Such a multimodal distribution reflects a population composed of several distinct sub-populations of the droplets, having different diameters. According to embodiments, the compositions according to the invention are polydisperse (span > 1) and multimodal. According to preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the invention are polydisperse (span > 1) and bi- or tri-modal. According to a more preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are polydisperse (span > 1) and bimodal.The following examples are given for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the present invention. Materials and Methods Measurement of the viscosity of emulsions The viscosity measurement is carried out with the RM 100 TOUCH CP 2000 viscometer from Lamy Rheology, a rotary viscometer equipped with a cone-plate whose characteristics are a 40mm diameter cone, 4° angle + 40mm plate. The accuracy is + / - 1% of the full scale with a repeatability: + / - 0.2%. The measurement is carried out at a shear of 100s-1, temperature 20°C, finished product control standard. The viscosity varies according to the temperature and, more precisely, it increases when the temperature decreases. Therefore, in order to be able to make meaningful comparisons, it is important to measure the viscosity of the emulsions at a constant temperature of 20°C. Handling: Attach the flat cone mobile to the device.On the plan, place a spatula tip of product in the center of the circle. Gently lower the measuring head so that the cone crushes the product. ^ There should always be a slight surplus of product overflowing from the cone-plane surface. In the main menu, press "Measurement". Two modes are possible: "Manual" and "Automatic" - Manual: enter the various desired parameters in the corresponding boxes (measuring system, speed, time) and click on - Auto: Choose the predefined program from the drop-down list and start the measurement. During the measurement, several parameters are displayed live: viscosity (mPa.s), torque (mN.m), speed gradient (s-1), temperature (°C), measuring system and time (s). Measurement of the texture of emulsions The measurement of the texture of emulsions is carried out with the SMS TA-TXPLUS TEXUROMETER by the company MicroStable System, equipped with a hemispherical probe with the morphology of a finger (P / 0.5HS) at 20 °C.It allows to characterize the firmness of emulsions. The measurement consists of 2 steps: Step 1: The emulsion is poured into a 60 ml cylindrical jar. The probe comes into contact with the surface of the product at a speed of 1 mm.s-1, penetrates 10 mm. The device measures the response force exerted by the product during the descent. The maximum of this force defines the firmness. Step 2: The probe rises (1 mm.s-1) and the device measures the response force exerted by the product. The maximum of this force (represented in negative on the measurement curve) defines the cohesion. The higher the values, the firmer and more consistent the emulsions. Measurement of particle size (polydispersity) A quantitative characterization of the drop size distribution was carried out by static light scattering using a Malvern Mastersizer 3000 Static Light Scattering.This method allows to measure the size of a particle as a function of its size, its optical index and that of the dispersant. From the spatial distribution of the intensity scattered by a set of particles, it is possible to go back to the size distribution of the sample. In order to avoid the phenomenon of multiple diffusion, the formula is first diluted in the external phase to reach internal phase volume fractions of the order of 1 / 20. This diluted emulsion is then introduced into the measuring cell of volume 7mL filled with water. An obscuration rate between 1% and 12% must be obtained to ensure the viability of the measurements. Stirring in the tank is set at 500 rpm for good dispersion of the sample. Microscopic observation Microscopic observations are carried out with the LEICA DMLB Optical Microscope and the photos taken with the Leica camera and recovered by screenshot with the Leica LAS application.A small amount of product is taken with a spatula then carefully deposited and spread on the slide. This observation is made at X100 magnification (x10 eyepiece and x10 objective), first without a coverslip, then the operation is repeated with a coverslip which is just gently placed on the product (no pressure is exerted under penalty of modification of the globular structure). The observation must be rapid because the Apollonian emulsion quickly transforms in air into a thin layer. The micro drop of white emulsion deposited on the slide will transform to become transparent; a phenomenon induced by air, temperature and the support. Stability of emulsions The product is stored as follows: - in an 80 ml syrup bottle at room temperature (RT). - in 30 ml glass pill bottles for lab tests: 3 months at 45°C, 5°C and RT. The containers must be filled by pouring (and not from a syringe or pipette).Their filling must be between the lower and upper edge of the container shoulder. Follow-up physical stability checks are carried out at the following times: at D0, D3, 1 month, 2 months, 3 months for all temperatures and the appearance is observed. The formula is said to be stable if its appearance has a homogeneous aspect. The formula is said to be unstable if a change in appearance such as separation is perceived. Example 1: Formulations for lip makeup The formulations for lip makeup were prepared according to the following process. The aqueous phase on the one hand, and the fatty phase on the other hand, were prepared separately. The aqueous phase was prepared by mixing the water, preservatives and colorants, using the ultra turax for 3 min speed "6" to ensure good dispersion of the colorant. To this first mixture are added the glycerin and the emulsifier previously mixed.The whole is then stirred using a three-blade at a moderate speed, then heated to 70°C. The fatty phase was prepared by mixing the different ingredients and melting the mixture in a 90°C water bath with moderate stirring using a deflocculator. The fatty phase is then cooled to 70°C so that the fatty phase is fluid and pumpable by the peristaltic pump. The fatty phase is then added to the aqueous phase, discontinuously and kept stirring using the peristaltic pump. The aqueous phase is stirred using a three-blade with very moderate stirring (200-300 rpm) to avoid "foaming the aqueous phase". Stirring at the time of emulsion (introduction of the fatty phase into the aqueous phase) is 800 rpm - 900 rpm using a two-way three-blade.The introduction rate of the fatty phase with the peristaltic pump is 3600ml / h (lower than the treatment because the product is more viscous, and requires slower incorporation into the aqueous phase at the time of emulsion). The volume of the peristaltic pump is adjusted to the quantity of fatty phase to be introduced so that the entire fatty phase is pumped at one time. The emulsion is cooled to room temperature then placed in a cold water bath with stirring until a temperature of 35°C is reached. Table 1 F088 F98 % by weight of the % by weight of the composition of the compositionOctyldodecanol (EUTANOL G) 33 33Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil. 25 16(TECHNOL SD) Bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl 25 34 dimer dilinoleate (PLANDOOL-G) Total oil phase (g) 83 83Water 9.4 10.8Phenoxyethanol 0.9Pentylene glycol 1Glycerin 5 5CI 17200 (RED 33 UNICERT RED K7057-J) 0.1 0.1Hydroxyethylcellulose (CELLOSIZE 0.2 0.1HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE QP 4400H EUROPE) Polyglyceryl-10 myristate (S-FACE M-1001) (g) 0.2 1water & sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine & 0.2 butylene glycol (PELLICER LB-30G) (g)Total aqueous phase (g) 17 17Ratio Fatty phase / Surfactant (g / g) 326.7 83Stability JO OK OKStability M1 OK OKStability M3 OK OKStability M4 OK OKViscosity (mPa.s) 1745 1854Firmness (g) 5.773 4.064D10 (µm) 1.33 1.43D50 (µm) 3.84 2.9D90 (µm) 14.3 17.4Span 3.366 5.498The particle size analysis of the emulsions obtained is shown in [Fig.1]. A polydisperse distribution of droplets with sizes ranging from 300nm to 1,000 µm is observed.In Figure 1, four peaks are observed, that is, a quadrimodal distribution comprising four populations of droplets: a first population whose droplet size is between 300 nm and 1 µm, a second population whose droplet size is between 1 and 7 µm, a third population whose droplet size is between 7 and 40 µm and a fourth population whose droplet size is between 200 and 1,000 µm. The Span is greater than 1, the emulsion is therefore polydisperse and quadrimodal. They are fluid as demonstrated by their viscosity of 1745 and 1854 mPa.s, and by a low firmness and consistency factor.

Claims

Claims 1. Fluid cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion comprising:- an emulsifying system comprising at least one surfactant;- a dispersed oily phase;- an aqueous continuous phase, in which:- the content of the oily phase is at least 70%, in particular at least 75%, in particular at least 80%; and - the weight ratio of the oily phase to the emulsifying system is greater than 45, in particular greater than 70, in particular greater than 100, even more particularly greater than 120. the percentages defined above being percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the viscosity of the emulsion is less than 2.5 Pa.s, in particular 2 Pa.s, and in particular 1.5 Pa.s measured at a temperature of 20°C and a shear rate of 100 s -1.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, in which the viscosity of the emulsion is greater than 1.5 Pa.s and less than 2.5 Pa.s measured at a temperature of 20°C and a shear rate of 100 s -1 .

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the viscosity of the emulsion is greater than 2 Pa.s and less than 2.5 Pa.s measured at a temperature of 20°C and a shear rate of 100 s -15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio of the oily phase to the emulsifying system is greater than 140, preferably greater than 150, even more preferably greater than 160.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of the emulsifying system is less than 2% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said surfactant is ionic or non-ionic.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said surfactant has an HLB of between 10 and 18.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said surfactant is selected from fatty acid esters of glycerol, alkylglucosides, saponins, lipopeptides, geminates or mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to claim 9, wherein the fatty acid esters of glycerol are selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate or distearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase comprises at least one polar oil.

12. Composition according to claim 11, wherein the oily phase further comprises an apolar oil, the weight content of polar oil in the oily phase being predominant compared to that of apolar oil.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 11 or 12,wherein the content by weight of polar oil represents at least 45%, preferably from 45% to 87% by weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 11 to 13, wherein said at least one polar oil is chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid triglycerides, or di-alkyl carbonate.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase comprises octyldodecanol, capric and / or caprylic acid triglycerides, triheptanoin, dicaprylyl carbonate or their mixture and the emulsifying system comprises a fatty acid ester of glycerol or sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the emulsion is polydisperse, preferably polydisperse and multimodal, more preferably polydisperse and bi- or tri- or quadri-modal.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,wherein the emulsion further comprises one or more ingredients selected from a cosmetic active ingredient, a perfume, a humectant, a filler, a colorant, a preservative, a sequestering agent, a UV filter, a film-forming agent and / or a gelling agent.

18. Composition according to claim 17, wherein the colorant is a water-soluble colorant and said water-soluble colorant is introduced into the aqueous continuous phase of the emulsion.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cleansing composition, a non-therapeutic skin or lip care composition, a perfume or a makeup composition.

20. Process for preparing a fluid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, comprising the steps of:i) Preparation of an aqueous phase comprising an emulsifying system;ii) Agitation of the aqueous phase obtained,in particular at a speed of between 150 and 1000 rpm, in particular between 200 and 900 rpm, preferably between 150 and 600 rpm;iii) Injection, into the aqueous phase maintained under stirring, of an oily phase at a constant discontinuous flow rate making it possible to disperse the oily phase in the aqueous phase, the content of said oily phase being at least 70%, in particular at least 75%, in particular at least 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the weight ratio of the oily phase to the emulsifying system being greater than 45, in particular greater than 70, in particular greater than 100, even more particularly greater than 120, preferably greater than 140, preferably greater than 150, even more preferably greater than 160.,

Citation Information

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