Solid composition comprising ester oils, plant waxes, solid non-wax hydrocarbon compounds and cellulose particles and method employing same

Abstract

A subject of the present invention is a solid cosmetic composition comprising: * 2% to 10% by weight of a filler chosen from cellulose particles; * at least a first polar ester hydrocarbon oil; * optionally, at least a second oil chosen from C15-C30 linear or C17-C30 branched apolar hydrocarbon oils, and preferably squalane; * at least one mixture of polar hydrocarbon waxes comprising sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and at least a third polar hydrocarbon wax, other than sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil, the total content of waxes being less than 20% by weight; * at least one hydrocarbon compound which is solid at 20°C, other than waxes, chosen from plant butters or obtained from plant oils, polyesters obtained at least from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the polyester obtained from the condensation of a C6-C10 linear or branched dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol with C6-C20 linear or branched monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated; and mixtures thereof; * optionally at least one additional oil, chosen from polar or apolar hydrocarbon oils other than the first and second oils, in an amount not exceeding 5% by weight. Another subject of the invention is a method for making up and / or caring for the lips that comprises applying said composition.

Description

SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING ESTER OILS, PLANT WAXES, SOLID NON-WAX HYDROCARBON COMPOUNDS AND CELLULOSE PARTICLES AND METHOD EMPLOYING SAME

[0001] The present invention relates to solid compositions comprising at least one ester-type hydrocarbon oil, at least one mixture of waxes comprising sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and a third, different, polar hydrocarbon wax, at least one ester-type solid compound other than waxes, and at least one particular, cellulose-based filler, and also to a method employing such a composition.

[0002] The present invention pertains to solid compositions intended for application to human keratin materials, more particularly the skin and / or lips, and preferably the lips. These compositions are advantageously intended for making up and / or caring for said keratin materials.

[0003] Cosmetic compositions intended for application especially to the lips, in particular for care and / or make-up, have been known for a very long time and take a wide variety of forms. Thus the compositions can take more or less viscous fluid presentation forms, such as oils and glosses, through to solid compositions in in the form of a supported or unsupported stick, compositions in pencil form, or else compositions stored in jars.

[0004] The compositions may also be anhydrous or alternatively be in the form of direct (oil-in-water) or invert (water-in-oil) emulsions.

[0005] The present invention relates more particularly to compositions in a stick form, preferably comprising little or no water.

[0006] Liquid or solid anhydrous compositions, dedicated in particular to making up and / or caring for the lips, with a relatively glossy result, are obtained generally from mixtures comprising relatively high levels of non-volatile oils, very often hydrocarbons or silicones, and also colorants such as, for example, pearlizers and / or pigments.

[0007] In the case of solid compositions, the aforesaid mixtures are generally admixed with structuring agents, of the type of apolar hydrocarbon waxes, such as polyethylene waxes, examples being Fischer-Tropsch waxes. These compounds stiffen the compositions so that they can be shaped into sticks, retaining their shape in storage and not breaking on application, without detriment to their usage properties. Indeed, the compositions must remain capable of being destructured so as to go on easily and must enable the application of an appropriate quantity of composition to the keratin materials, more particularly the lips.

[0008] For a number of years, a new tendency has appeared markedly among consumers, who not exclusively but still to some extent are focusing on the performance characteristics of the make-up composition. Specifically, ever greater attention is being paid to the ingredients used, and in particular their natural character.

[0009] This is the reason why, more and more frequently, the aim is to do without raw materials conventionally used up to now, such as those derived from transformation of petroleum, or else silicones, though without detriment to the performance characteristics of the compositions. In their applied forms, these compositions must, among other characteristics, be comfortable, with little stickiness, and must remain sufficiently glossy over time.

[0010] Thus, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing toward meeting the global challenges. It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus enabling these environmental challenges to be met.

[0011] In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0012] The present invention is part of this tendency and thus pertains more particularly to solid compositions, in particular for the make-up and / or care of human keratin materials, more particularly the lips, favoring the use of compounds of natural origin, in particular of plant compounds or compounds of plant origin. Moreover, the compositions according to the invention advantageously enable the reduced presence, or even omission, of liquid or solid ingredients derived from petroleum chemistry, or of silicone ingredients.

[0013] One of the difficulties encountered with ingredients of natural origin is that the compositions are not always correctly structured, for reasons including the affinity of the ingredients for one another. Accordingly, compositions in stick form may be obtained that are either too soft or too hard, preventing satisfactory application of the composition and / or possibly causing the stick to break.

[0014] The objectives of the present invention are therefore to propose solid cosmetic compositions, in particular in stick form, in which the content of ingredients derived from the petroleum industry, such as oils or solid compounds, is limited or even, advantageously, zero, and which have suitable mechanical properties for easy, uniform and appropriate application of the composition, without causing the stick to break. Moreover, the applied composition must remain comfortable, with little or no stickiness, while being sufficiently glossy.

[0015] These aims and others are achieved by the present invention, a subject of which is therefore solid cosmetic compositions comprising:

[0016] * 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a filler chosen from cellulose particles;

[0017] * at least a first polar ester hydrocarbon oil;

[0018] * optionally, at least a second oil chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils which are linear and comprise 15 to 30 carbon atoms or are branched and comprise 17 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably squalane;

[0019] * at least one mixture of polar hydrocarbon waxes comprising sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and at least a third polar hydrocarbon wax, other than sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil, the total content of waxes being less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0020] * at least one hydrocarbon compound which is solid at 20°C, other than the aforesaid waxes, chosen from plant butters or obtained from plant oils, polyesters obtained at least from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the polyesters obtained from the condensation of a C6-C10linear or branched dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol with C6-C20linear or branched monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated; and mixtures thereof;

[0021] * optionally at least one additional oil, chosen from polar or apolar hydrocarbon oils other than the first and second oils, and silicone oils, in an amount not exceeding 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] Another subject of the invention is a make-up and / or care method in which the composition defined above is applied to human keratin materials, in particular to the skin and / or the lips, and preferably to the lips.

[0023] The present invention makes it possible to obtain a stable, solid composition, more particularly in the form of a stick, which is easily applied to human keratin materials, in particular to the lips, as a precise, uniform and sufficiently glossy applied composition. The resulting applied composition also exhibits a particularly notable comfort, providing a "cushion" effect, with a sensation of lip protection and of moisturizing.

[0024] It has been found, entirely surprisingly, that in spite of a relatively low wax content, the composition according to the invention exhibits a very satisfactory and even relatively substantial hardness owing to this fact. The stick is therefore advantageously robust on application. It has additionally been found that despite this hardness, the composition when applied to the keratin materials, in particular to the lips, develops a very surprising "fondant" character, which would have been expected from experimenting with applying a composition much softer than that according to the invention.

[0025] Another surprising feature is that in spite of this very "fondant" character on application, the amount applied is not excessive. The applied composition has little or no stickiness and is sufficiently glossy and very comfortable, without any oily sensation.

[0026] These advantages, and others, of the present invention will become more clearly apparent on reading the description and the examples which will follow.

[0027] It should be noted that, in the remainder of the description, unless otherwise indicated, the limits indicated for a range are included in said range.

[0028] The expressions "at least one" and "several" are used without distinction.

[0029] In addition, the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Protocol for measuring hardness

[0030] The hardness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol:

[0031] The stick is stored at 20°C for 16 hours before measuring the hardness.

[0032] The hardness is measured at 20°C by the "cheese wire" method, which involves transversely cutting a stick of product, which is preferably cylindrical in revolution (a cylindrical stick with a diameter of 11.6 mm), by means of a rigid tungsten wire with a diameter of 0.25 mm, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min. The measurements are carried out at least 10 mm from the sample holder.

[0033] The hardness of the samples, expressed in grams, is measured, for example, by means of a static brittleness tester (ruptometer - Rematique Electronique Industrielle).

[0034] The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The hardness is the average of the three values read by means of the apparatus stated above.

[0035] According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of between 80 and 150 g, more particularly 80 to 120 g.

[0036] The value may also be converted to Nm-1according to the following calculation:

[0037] (Y x 10-3x 9.8) / L, where Y represents the hardness value in grams and L represents the largest dimension through which the wire passes – in the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).Protocol for measuring the gloss

[0038] The gloss of the composition is measured according to the following protocol:

[0039] To conduct the measurement, the test sample is heated to a sufficient temperature allowing it to be spread. More particularly, this temperature is of the order of 98°C.

[0040] The composition is then spread as a film on a Byko Chart 2A® or Penopac 1A® contrast card from Byk using an automatic film spreader of the Byko-Drive XL® type from Byk equipped with a film spreading bar such as a 5353® variable slit height square from Byk, set for a slit height of 50.8 µm.

[0041] The contrast card is thus placed on the applicator platform and the 50.8 µm slit side of the bar is placed on the contrast card at the information area to be filled in. About 2 g of material are deposited directly in front of the bar. The automatic applicator is started and the bar is moved to ensure that an even film of the required thickness is deposited.

[0042] The film is left to dry at 25°C for 15 minutes.

[0043] The gloss of the film applied to the black areas of the contrast card is measured at an incident angle of 60° and expressed in Gloss Units.

[0044] The gloss unit is a gloss meter scale (example: Rhopoint IQ-S® from Konica Minolta), based on a reference standard of highly polished black glass with a defined refractive index and a specular reflectance of 100 gloss units at a given angle, with the minimum point set to 0 for a perfectly matt surface.

[0045] The measurement can be repeated over time to evaluate the gloss persistence.

[0046] The composition is considered glossy for the purposes of the invention when the gloss value is at least 5, more particularly at least 6, and preferably at least 7.5. In accordance with one embodiment of the invention, the gloss value is not more than 20, more particularly not more than 15.CELLULOSE PARTICLES

[0047] The composition according to the invention comprises from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a filler chosen from cellulose particles.

[0048] The cellulose particles that may be used according to the invention are preferably spherical (cellulose beads).

[0049] For the purposes of the present invention, spherical particles are solid or porous particles which have a surface which may or may not be smooth and which have a mean circularity parameter of at least 0.95. The circularity parameter is defined as the ratio of the circumference of a disk having the same area as the particle to the perimeter of the particle. A value of 1 characterizes perfectly spherical particles.

[0050] The "mean circularity" may be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the "mean circularity" may be an arithmetic mean of circularity obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of not less than 2000 particles observed at a magnification of 1000 by detection of secondary electrons using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).

[0051] The "circularity" of each particle is a value determined by the following formula: C = 4πS / L2, in which C represents a circularity, S represents a zone (projected area) of the particle in the image, and L represents a length of a periphery (perimeter) of the particle in the image. When the mean circularity approaches 1, the shape of each of the particles becomes more spherical.

[0052] They preferably have an average size (D(50) by volume) of less than or equal to 40 µm, preferably of from 1 to 20 µm, more preferably from 2 to 15 µm.

[0053] The sizes of the particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0054] The cellulose particles that may be used according to the invention include in particular those sold by Daito under the Cellulobeads® brand name, such as Cellulobeads USF®, Cellulobeads USF-X®, Cellulobeads D-5®, Cellulobeads D-10® or Cellulobeads D-30®.

[0055] Preferably, the content of cellulose particles ranges from 3% to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.FIRST OIL

[0056] The composition according to the invention comprises at least a first non-volatile polar ester hydrocarbon oil.

[0057] A "non-volatile oil" denotes water-insoluble fatty compounds that are liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 105Pa) with a vapor pressure at 20°C that is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than or equal to 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure may be measured via the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0058] A "polar hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil formed essentially, or even consisting, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also comprising at least one oxygen atom and optionally a nitrogen atom. It may contain one or more alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. Such oils are therefore different from silicone oils, as they are devoid of a silicon atom.

[0059] A polar ester hydrocarbon oil for the purposes of the invention comprises, further to the carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one ester function (-C(=O)-O-).

[0060] More particularly, the first oil is chosen from non-volatile ester hydrocarbon oils comprising one or more ester functions, optionally hydroxylated, and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12, and also mixtures thereof.

[0061] The first oil is preferably chosen from:

[0062] - plant oils;

[0063] - ester oils other than plant oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon radical comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms; the polyesters obtained from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid;

[0064] - liquid polyesters derived from the reaction of a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0065] - and also mixtures thereof.

[0066] Suitable ester oils therefore include plant oils; ester oils other than plant oils, chosen from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic mono- and diesters, optionally hydroxylated, comprising at least 12 carbon atoms and advantageously from 12 to 80 carbon atoms; linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic triesters, optionally hydroxylated, comprising up to 80 carbon atoms; linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic tetraesters, optionally hydroxylated, comprising from 35 to 80 carbon atoms; the polyesters obtained from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid; the liquid polyesters obtained from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and also mixtures thereof.

[0067] Plant oils include, for example, castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil,Rosa caninaoil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, marula oil, camelina oil,wheat germ oil, maize oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood nut oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also mixtures thereof.

[0068] The plant oil may preferably be chosen from castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also mixtures thereof.

[0069] Mention may be made, among the monoesters or diesters, of those obtained from a saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 and preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from a saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol or polyol, comprising from 2 to 26 and in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12 and preferably at least 16, and also mixtures thereof.

[0070] By way of example, mention may be made of 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, glyceryl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, mixtures of esters of capric acid, of caprylic acid and of a coconut-derived alcohol (C12-C18alcohols), 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof.

[0071] Mention may also be made of optionally hydroxylated mono- and diesters of a C2-C8mono- or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C8alcohol. Suitable in particular for carrying out the invention are the monoesters of a C2-C8carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8alcohol, which are optionally hydroxylated, and the diesters of a C2-C8dicarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8alcohol, which are optionally hydroxylated, such as diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate or bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate.

[0072] Mention may also be made of linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic mono- and diesters of a saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, and of diols, in particular glycols, especially of C2-C5, of glycerol or of polyglycerol (preferably 2 to 3 mol of glycerol). Mention may be made for example of propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and also mixtures thereof.

[0073] Suitable for the invention are the triesters obtained from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, C2-C40, preferably C4-C40, mono- or polycarboxylic acids, which are optionally hydroxylated, and from C2-C40, preferably C3-C40, polyols or monoalcohols.

[0074] Mention may be made, for example, of triacetin and also triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated C4-C36fatty acids, more particularly saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C20fatty acids, such as, for example, triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid; in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides, such as Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, for example such as the products sold under the DUB MCT range by Stéarinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, triglycerides of C18-36acid, such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stéarinerie Dubois, and glyceryl triisostearate.

[0075] Mention may also be made of the triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol (preferably 2 or 3 mol of glycerol) with monocarboxylic acids, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate) and glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate).

[0076] Mention may also be made, by way of example, of triesters of an optionally hydroxylated C2-C9acid comprising three carboxyl functions with a C2-C20monoalcohol. Mention may be made of citric acid esters, such as, for example, triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, tributyl acetylcitrate and likewise tridecyl trimellitate, and also mixtures thereof.

[0077] Linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated tetraesters comprising in particular from 35 to 80 carbon atoms include tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or else pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate), and also mixtures thereof.

[0078] Also suitable are polyesters derived from the esterification of a polyol, of at least one monocarboxylic acid and of at least one dicarboxylic acid, as described in particular in patent US7317068. The polyol comprises more particularly 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, and is preferably pentaerythritol. More particularly, the monocarboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 6 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, preferably, stearic, isostearic, caprylic and capric acids, or combinations thereof. The linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic dicarboxylic acid comprises more particularly 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and is preferably adipic acid. Examples include the product with the INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate, sold in particular under the name Supermol® L by Croda, and the product with the INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate, sold under the name Lexfeel® 700 EX-LO-MB by Inolex.

[0079] Liquid polyesters derived from the reaction of a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The carboxylic acid dimer is derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, notably a C16-C22fatty acid and more particularly a C18fatty acid, such as linoleic acid. Examples of suitable polyesters that may be mentioned, alone or as mixtures, include:

[0080] - the polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimer and diol, such as those described in patent application FR 853 634, such as in particular of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, or 1,3-propanediol.. Mention may most particularly be made of Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (INCI name), sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast® 14436H, or Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer (INCI name), sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast® Green 3000;

[0081] - copolymers with the INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, as sold under the name Hailucent® ISDA by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo;

[0082] - polyesters obtained from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, with at least one alcohol dimer (dimer diol), preferably saturated, in which the alcohol comprises from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, as sold for example by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan® DD-DA5 and DD-DA7.

[0083] Preferably, the polar hydrocarbon oil(s) are chosen from:

[0084] - plant oils, more particularly castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also mixtures thereof;

[0085] - linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic triesters comprising up to 80 carbon atoms, such as, for example, triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C36, more particularly C8-C20, fatty acids, such as, for example, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (INCI name); triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol (preferably 2 or 3 moles of glycerol) with monocarboxylic acids, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate: INCI name);

[0086] - tetraesters comprising in particular from 35 to 80 carbon atoms, such as the tetraesters of pentaerythritol or the tetraesters of polyglycerol with a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate;

[0087] - polyesters obtained from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, with at least one alcohol dimer (dimer diol), preferably saturated, in which the alcohol comprises from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the compounds with the INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate;

[0088] - mixtures thereof.

[0089] According to one particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the content of first oil(s) represents from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 15% to 55% by weight and preferably from 20% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.SECOND OIL

[0090] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least a second oil chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils which are linear and comprise from 15 to 30 carbon atoms or are branched and comprise from 17 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably squalane.

[0091] An "apolar hydrocarbon oil" denotes hydrocarbon compounds which are liquid at 20°C and comprise only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure.

[0092] The squalane which can be used in the composition according to the invention is preferably of plant origin, and may in particular originate from olive, or else from sugar cane.

[0093] Squalane is sold by companies which include Amyris, under the name Neossance Squalane, and Biosynthis, under the name Squalive.

[0094] Apolar hydrocarbon oils which might also be suitable are oils such as the mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons with the following INCI names: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-28 Alkane (INCI name).

[0095] The composition preferably comprises squalane as second oil.

[0096] Advantageously, when the composition comprises a second oil, the content thereof represents from 10% to 30% by weight, preferably from 12% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] If the composition comprises squalane as second oil, the content of second apolar hydrocarbon oil other than squalane represents advantageously less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably still the composition comprises no apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) other than squalane.ADDITIONAL OILS

[0098] The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one additional oil, other than the first and second oils.

[0099] The one or more additional oils may more particularly be chosen from polar or apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, from non-volatile silicone oils, from volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] The term "silicone oil" denotes an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and notably containing Si-O groups.Additional non-volatile oils

[0101] According to a first variant, the additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from preferably monohydroxylated C10-C26fatty alcohols, from ethers of formula ROR', and from carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', in which formulae the groups R and R', which are identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C3-C16group; and mixtures thereof.

[0102] The alcohols are more particularly alcohols which comprise a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical comprising 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monohydroxylated.

[0103] Preferably, said alcohol(s) are chosen from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.

[0104] Suitability with regard to the ethers of formula ROR' and the carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR' is possessed in particular by dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate, and also mixtures thereof.

[0105] If the composition comprises the additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, this oil is chosen from fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol, or else dicaprylyl ether, and also mixtures thereof.

[0106] If the composition comprises any additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s), the content thereof is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, even more advantageously less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is devoid of such oil.

[0107] According to a second variant, the additional oil may optionally be chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils other than the second oil, alone or in mixtures.

[0108] These oils may have a variety of origins, and more particularly derive from the petrochemical industry.

[0109] Examples of additional apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil include liquid paraffin, hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polybutenes, hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] If the composition comprises any additional non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s), the content thereof is less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is devoid of such oil.

[0111] According to a third variant, the additional oil may be chosen from phenylated or unphenylated non-volatile silicone oils with or without at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0112] The term "phenyl(ated)" specifies that said oil includes, in its structure, at least one phenyl radical.

[0113] The term "dimethicone fragment" denotes a divalent siloxane group, the silicon atom of which bears two methyl radicals, this group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule. It may be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.

[0114] Preferably, the silicones do not contain either C2-C3alkylene oxide group(s) or glycerolated group(s).

[0115] Among the non-volatile non-phenyl silicones, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone), alkyldimethicones comprising at least one C2-C24alkyl group, and mixtures thereof.

[0116] Among the non-volatile phenyl silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, mention may be made of the compounds having the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0117] With regard to the non-volatile phenyl silicone oils with no dimethicone fragment(s), mention may be made of the compounds having the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxanes, alone or as mixtures.

[0118] More particularly, if the composition comprises any non-volatile silicone oil(s), the content thereof is less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is devoid of such oil.Additional volatile oils

[0119] A "volatile oil" denotes an oil (hence being liquid at 20ºC and atmospheric pressure) having a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, of in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular up to 13 000 Pa, and more particularly up to 1300 Pa.

[0120] According to a first variant, the additional oil may be chosen from volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils.

[0121] It should be noted that such oils may originate from the industry associated with petroleum (petrochemical industry) or else may be of plant origin.

[0122] Mention may be made, as examples of volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils, of the following in particular:

[0123] - branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane and isohexadecane;

[0124] - linear C8-C14 alkanes, for example such as the mixture of n-decane (C10) and n-dodecane (C12) sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight silk, n-dodecane (C12) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof;

[0125] - and mixtures thereof.

[0126] Advantageously, if the composition comprises any additional volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s), the content thereof is less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, and more preferentially still the composition comprises no volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s).

[0127] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the content of volatile or non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) obtained from the petrochemical industry is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is devoid of such oil.

[0128] According to a second variant, the additional oil may be chosen from volatile silicone oils.

[0129] As examples, mention may in particular be made of dimethicones with a viscosity of less than 5 cSt (5 x 10-3mm² / s, measured in particular according to the ASTM D-445 standard), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0130] More particularly, if the composition comprises any additional volatile silicone oil(s), the content thereof is less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially still the composition comprises no volatile silicone oil(s).

[0131] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains a content of less than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of additional volatile or non-volatile silicone or hydrocarbon oil(s). Preferably, the composition is devoid of such oil.WAXES

[0132] The composition according to the invention further comprises a mixture of waxes comprising sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and at least one additional polar hydrocarbon wax, different from the first two, the total content of waxes being less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0133] Preferably, the total content of waxes is less than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] According to one particular embodiment, the total content of waxes is at least 7% by weight, preferably at least 9% by weight and preferably at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises no apolar hydrocarbon waxes, such as, for example, polyethylene waxes, Fischer Tropsch waxes or mixtures thereof, or comprises them in a limited amount, for example less than 1% by weight, more particularly less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Sunflower wax

[0136] The sunflower wax (INCI name: HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX) is obtained by cooling (winterization) of sunflower seed oil, filtration and lastly refining. It is notably sold by Koster Keunen.

[0137] It is in the form of a solid, the melting temperature of which is between 74°C and 77°C. It is constituted mainly of saturated monoesters comprising 42 to 62 carbon atoms.

[0138] More particularly, the composition according to the invention has a sunflower wax content of between 1.5% and 8% by weight, in particular between 1.8% and 8% by weight, preferably between 2% and 7% by weight, or even between 2% and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Hydrogenated jojoba oil

[0139] The hydrogenated jojoba oil, INCI name Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, is more particularly obtained by catalytic and complete hydrogenation of jojoba oil obtained from Simmondsia chinensis seeds. Complete hydrogenation is understood to mean the production of a compound with an iodine value of less than 2.

[0140] The hydrogenated jojoba oil is in the form of a solid, the melting temperature of which is between 67°C and 72°C, more particularly from 68°C to 71°C.

[0141] The hydrogenated jojoba oil is composed mainly of saturated monoesters, comprising from 36 to 48 carbon atoms.

[0142] It is sold in particular by Vantage Speciality Chemicals under the trade name Desert Whale Jojoba Wax Flakes.

[0143] More particularly, the content of hydrogenated jojoba oil ranges from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Additional waxes

[0144] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional polar hydrocarbon wax other than sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0145] More particularly, for the purposes of the invention, it is recalled that a wax is in general a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (20°C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point in particular greater than or equal to 45°C and less than or equal to 120°C, more particularly less than or equal to 90°C.

[0146] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature (or melting point) corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.

[0147] The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 2000 by TA Instruments, with the TA Universal Analysis software.The measuring protocol is as follows:

[0148] A sample of 5 mg of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is lastly subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute.

[0149] During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the wax is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve.Additional polar waxes

[0150] A "polar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax formed essentially, or even consisting, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one oxygen and optionally nitrogen atom. These compounds thus do not contain any silicon atoms.

[0151] More particularly, the additional polar hydrocarbon wax other than hydrogenated jojoba oil and sunflower wax is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes of ester wax or alcohol wax type or mixtures thereof, and preferably at least among ester waxes.

[0152] According to the invention, the term "ester wax" means a hydrocarbon wax comprising at least one ester function (-O-C(=O)-). The ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.

[0153] According to the invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a hydrocarbon wax comprising no ester function (and therefore different from ester waxes), and comprising at least one hydroxyl function (-OH).

[0154] The polar ester hydrocarbon waxes that can be used in the context of the present invention include, alone or in mixtures, the following:

[0155] i) Waxes of formula R1COOR2in which R1and R2represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and the melting point of which ranges from 45°C to 120°C, preferably from 45°C to 100°C.

[0156] In particular, use may be made, as ester wax, of a C20-C40alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40alkyl stearate. Such waxes are notably sold under the names Kester Wax® K 82 P, Hydroxypolyester® K 82 P, Kester Wax® K 80 P or Kester Wax® K82H by Koster Keunen. Use may also be made of mixtures of esters of C14-C18carboxylic acids and of alcohols, such as the products Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from Koster Keunen, SP Crodamol MS MBAL and Crodamol MS PA from Croda, and Miraceti from Laserson.

[0157] ii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid, of general formula

[0158] R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3and R5are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30alkyl group and R4represents a linear or branched aliphatic C4-C30group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C4-C30aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

[0159] iii) Waxes of animal or plant origin, other than sunflower wax.

[0160] Mention may be made, as examples of suitable waxes, of beeswax, lanolin wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax and montan wax, which are or are not refined, and also mixtures thereof.

[0161] iv) Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or plant oils, other than hydrogenated jojoba oil, or else by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of plant origin (for instance lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, myristyl and behenyl alcohols) and plant oil, such as olive oil or castor oil.

[0162] Mention may more particularly be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of plant oils having linear or branched C8-C32fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil and hydrogenated coconut oil.

[0163] As waxes resulting from the hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of plant origin and plant oil, mention may also be made of the waxes with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Myristyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Cetyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Stearyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Behenyl Castor Esters. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names Phytowax® Olive 12 L44, Phytowax® Olive 14 L 48, Phytowax® Olive 16 L 55, Phytowax® Olive 18 L 57, Phytowax® Ricin 16 L 64, Phytowax® Ricin 18 L 69 and Phytowax® Ricin 22 L 73 by Sophim. These kinds of waxes are described in patent application FR2792190.

[0164] v) Natural or synthetic polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated waxes of animal or plant origin, preferably polyoxyethylenated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax and PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated and hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated lanolin waxes, such as PEG-30 lanolin and PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, esters obtained from the reaction of the plant waxes Acacia decurrens flower wax, jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax and polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof.

[0165] vi) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total esters, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C16-C30carboxylic acid with glycerol, for instance glyceryl tristearate (INCI name: Tristearin), glyceryl trihydroxystearate (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin), glyceryl tribehenate (INCI name: Tribehenin), alone or as a mixture;

[0166] vii) Mixtures thereof.

[0167] The alcohol waxes include saturated or unsaturated C12-C24, preferably C14-C20, preferentially C14-C18 fatty alcohols which are solid at 20°C, examples being the alcohols chosen from cetearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50 / 50), stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, C16-C22 alcohols, and also mixtures thereof.

[0168] The additional polar hydrocarbon wax is preferably chosen from ester waxes, more particularly:

[0169] * waxes of animal or plant origin, other than sunflower wax;

[0170] * waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or plant oils, other than hydrogenated jojoba oil, or else by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of plant origin and plant oil;

[0171] * natural or synthetic, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated waxes of animal or plant origin, and mixtures thereof;

[0172] * and mixtures thereof.

[0173] More particularly, the additional polar hydrocarbon wax(es) are chosen from beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, refined or otherwise, and also mixtures thereof; from hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and also waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil or olive oil, and also mixtures thereof. In accordance with one particular embodiment of the invention, the one or more additional waxes are chosen from candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters, hydrogenated olive oil myristyl esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0174] The natural or synthetic, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated waxes of animal or plant origin are preferably chosen from polyglycerolated beeswaxes, especially polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, esters obtained from the reaction of the plant waxes Acacia decurrens flower wax, jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax and polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof.

[0175] As one or more additional polar waxes, the composition preferably comprises at least one wax, other than hydrogenated jojoba oil and sunflower wax, chosen from ester waxes, more particularly from plant waxes, especially candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof; from natural or synthetic polyglycerolated waxes of animal or plant origin, in particular polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, esters obtained from the reaction of the plant waxes Acacia decurrens flower wax, jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax and polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof.

[0176] The content of additional polar wax(es) more particularly ranges from 3 to 9% by weight, preferably from 3.5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.SOLID HYDROCARBON COMPOUNDS OTHER THAN WAXES

[0177] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon compound which is solid at 20°C, other than the aforesaid waxes, chosen from plant butters or obtained from plant oils; polyesters obtained at least from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the polyester obtained from the condensation of a C6-C10linear or branched dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol with C6-C20linear or branched monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated; and also mixtures thereof.

[0178] According to a first variant, said solid hydrocarbon compound is chosen from plant butters, such as, for example, mango butter (INCI name: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter), as sold under the reference Trivent Mango Butter by Alzo, shea butter (INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), as sold under the references Lipex 102, Lipex Shea and Lipex Sheasoft by Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (INCI name: Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), sold for example under the name Rain Forest 03410 by Beraca Sabara, murumuru butter, sold in particular under the reference Rain Forest 03710 by Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter (INCI name: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter) sold for example under the reference PPP Cocoa Butter Deodorised by Dutch Cocoa, jojoba butter (INCI name: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter) sold in particular by Desert Whale under the name Iso Jojoba 50, and also mixtures thereof.

[0179] Suitable solid hydrocarbon compounds include the butters obtained from plant oils, more particularly obtained by complete or partial hydrogenation of the oil, such as for example the compounds having the following INCI names: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, sold in particular under the name Akogel by Aarhuskarlshamn,under the name Cegesoft® HF 52 by BASF,Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, sold in particular under the name Softisan 100 by IOI Oleo, partially hydrogenated olive oil, sold for example under the reference Beurrolive® by Soliance (INCI name: Hydrogenated Olive Oil), and mixtures thereof.

[0180] Also suitable are esters resulting from the condensation of a preferably saturated linear or branched C6-C10dicarboxylic acid and of an ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, preferably saturated, linear or branched C6-C20monocarboxylic acids, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and of a mixture of esters of diglycerol with a mixture of C6-C20fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and the compound with the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, sold for example under the reference Softisan 649 by IOI Oleo.

[0181] Polyesters obtained at least from a monounsaturated or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, include for example:

[0182] * dimer esters of dilinoleyl alcohol and of dilinoleic acid, the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, of behenyl alcohol and of isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool® G by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0183] * esters of dilinoleic acid and of a mixture of phytosterols, of isostearyl alcohol, of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol and of behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool® H or Plandool® S by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0184] * esters of hydrogenated castor oil and of the dilinoleic acid dimer, such as those sold under the names Risocast®-DA-L or Risocast®-DA-H by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).

[0185] The one or more compounds solid at 20°C, other than waxes, are preferably chosen from plant butters, butters obtained from plant oils, triglycerides of optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably C12-C18, fatty acids; polyesters obtained at least from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; esters obtained from the condensation of a C6-C10linear or branched dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol with C6-C20linear or branched monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated; and mixtures thereof.

[0186] The compound which is solid at 20°C, other than the aforesaid waxes, is advantageously chosen from:

[0187] * the compounds having the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof;

[0188] * plant butters such as, for example, mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, jojoba butter, and mixtures thereof;

[0189] * compounds having the INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, and mixtures thereof;

[0190] * the compound having the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2,

[0191] * mixtures thereof.

[0192] More preferably still, the compound which is solid at 20°C, other than waxes, is chosen from the compounds having the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Diinoleate, and mixtures thereof; plant butters such as, for example, mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, jojoba butter, and mixtures thereof; and mixtures thereof.

[0193] The solid hydrocarbon compound other than waxes may be a pasty compound.

[0194] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" means a solid lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, and including at a temperature of 20-25°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have an initial melting point of less than 20-25°C.

[0195] The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that described in detail previously for the waxes. In the case of a pasty compound, the measuring protocol is, however, as follows:

[0196] It is noted that for determining the melting temperature of the solid compounds other than waxes, the protocol below is employed more particularly:

[0197] A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute.

[0198] The melting point of said pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

[0199] It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.

[0200] The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

[0201] The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

[0202] Advantageously, the content of hydrocarbon compound(s) solid at 20°C, other than waxes, ranges from 20% to 40% by weight, preferably from 25% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.COLORANTS

[0203] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one colorant.

[0204] According to one particular form of the invention, the colorant may be chosen from pulverulent colorants, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.Pulverulent colorants

[0205] The pulverulent colorants may be chosen from pigments, especially mineral pigments, organic pigments, pearlizers and mixtures thereof.

[0206] The term "pigments" means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and / or organic.

[0207] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0208] The term "mineral pigment" refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0209] The size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0210] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[0050] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0211] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicronic to multimicronic; it makes it possible to determine an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C.,Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0212] D

[0050] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.

[0213] According to a particular form of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, said coating preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0214] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0215] According to a preferential embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with an N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof, which may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.

[0216] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylamino acid derivative which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, for instance aluminum stearoyl glutamate. As examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei.

[0217] According to a preferential embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate. As examples of isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT)-treated pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and the black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWBO-I2® (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-I2® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) and BWRO-I2® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by Kobo.

[0218] The pigments that may be used according to the invention may also be organic pigments.

[0219] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0220] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0221] These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.

[0222] The pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0223] The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0224] Mention may be made, among the organic dyes, of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0225] An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0226] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent dyestuff of mineral pigment type, in particular chosen from metal oxides, and more particularly chosen from coated or uncoated titanium dioxides or iron oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0227] The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica notably with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0228] Preferably, if the composition comprises any, the pulverulent dyestuff(s) are preferably present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Liposoluble or water-soluble dyestuffs

[0229] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or liposoluble dyestuff, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0230] For obvious reasons, this amount is liable to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and of the color intensity afforded by the dyestuffs under consideration, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.

[0231] The additional dyestuffs that are suitable for use in the invention may be liposoluble.

[0232] For the purposes of the invention, the term "liposoluble dyestuff" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a fatty substance, and which is capable of imparting color.

[0233] As liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.

[0234] The additional dyestuffs that are suitable for use in the invention may be water-soluble.

[0235] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dyestuff" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting color.

[0236] As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made notably of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanine (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elder), caramel and riboflavin.

[0237] The water-soluble or liposoluble dye(s), if the composition comprises any, are preferably present in contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.02% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.OPTIONAL FILLERS

[0238] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one optional filler different from the cellulose particles described previously.

[0239] The optional filler, different from the abovementioned cellulose particles, is chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers and mixtures thereof.

[0240] The term "filler" denotes a particle of organic or mineral nature which is colorless or white, which is solid, which has any shape and which is insoluble in the medium of the composition at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. These fillers are advantageously dispersed in the composition.

[0241] In accordance with one particular embodiment of the invention, the content of optional filler(s) represents from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, if the composition comprises at least one filler, the content of optional filler(s) is less than the cellulose content. Preferably, the composition does not comprise optional filler.Optional mineral fillers

[0242] The term "mineral filler" refers to any compound in which the chemical structure does not comprise a carbon atom, independently of the presence of a coating of said filler.

[0243] The fillers are in the form of particles and are distinct from the dyestuffs that will be described below.

[0244] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be particles in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibers or in any other form intermediate between these defined forms. The fillers may be spherical, i.e. they may comprise at least a rounded general portion, notably defining at least a sphere portion, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, and the like), or lamellar.

[0245] In accordance with one particular embodiment of the invention, the fillers more particularly have an average particle size (expressed as volume-average diameter - D

[0050] ) of at least 1 µm, preferably of at least 2 µm, advantageously of between 2 and 15 µm. The size of the particles can be measured by laser diffraction using a commercial particle size analyzer of MasterSizer 3000 type from Malvern (see also standard ISO 13320).

[0246] The fillers used in the composition according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, and in particular they may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, in particular promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones, in particular silanes; fluorinated derivatives, fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds cited above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0247] Fillers of these kinds may advantageously be chosen from silica (INCI name: Silica), perlite, zeolites, calcium magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogencarbonate, hydroxyapatite, kaolin, talc, natural or synthetic mica, boron nitride; composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, bismuth oxychloride, microcapsules of glass or ceramic, such as for example particles of borosilicate, and mixtures thereof.Optional organic fillers

[0248] For the purposes of the invention, the term "organic filler" refers to solid particles of at least one hydrocarbon or silicone compound, preferably a hydrocarbon, independently of their coating.

[0249] The fillers are in the form of particles which also may or may not be surface-treated by means of compounds such as those described above in the context of the mineral fillers.

[0250] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers may be spherical, i.e. they may comprise at least a rounded general portion, notably defining at least a sphere portion, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, and the like), or lamellar.

[0251] Suitable fillers include natural or synthetic micronized waxes; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polysaccharide powders, and more particularly starch powders, especially of corn, wheat or rice starches; starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride; starch powders of waxy maize; N-acylamino acids with C8-C22 carbon atoms, for example lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0252] Although not preferred, mention may also be made of the particles of acrylic (co)polymers, and derivatives thereof, examples being the polymers with the INCI names as follows: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Methyl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, polyamide particles, such as nylon; silicone particles, especially particles of silicone resins (for example Polymethylsilsesquioxane), silicone elastomer, especially Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, particles of Methylsilanol / Silicate Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0253] The optional organic filler is preferably not chosen from silicone fillers, nor from acrylic (co)polymers, acrylonitriles, polyurethanes and polyamides, as described earlier.

[0254] According to one particularly advantageous embodiment, the composition does not comprise polymeric organic fillers, considered to be microplastics. It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, the term "microplastics" means solid particles, of stable form, of polymer comprising carbon atoms in the polymer chain (backbone), of synthetic origin or of chemically modified natural origin, insoluble in water (i.e.: less than 2 g / l; OECD Directive 105), with a size less than 5 mm (and with a size less than 15 mm for fibers). The term "stable form" denotes particles remaining solid in the composition and after its use. Not considered as being of stable form, for example, are polymer particles forming a film in the composition or when the latter is used. If the composition were nevertheless to comprise such particles, the content thereof would be preferably less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight and advantageously less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, if the composition comprises them, the content of organic fillers of the abovementioned microplastics type is less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and very advantageously, the composition is devoid of such fillers.WATER

[0255] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water. Preferably, the water content does not exceed 5% by weight, preferably does not exceed 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Even more advantageously, the water content, if the composition comprises any, does not exceed 1% by weight, in particular does not exceed 0.5% by weight and more particularly still does not exceed 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.OPTIONAL ADJUVANTS

[0256] In the context of the present invention, the composition may also contain at least one optional adjuvant chosen from those usually used in the cosmetics field, in particular for compositions for making up and / or caring for the skin and the lips.

[0257] Examples include lipophilic mineral thickening agents, for instance hydrophobic clays, such as Disteardimonium Hectorites, Quaternium-18 Bentonites and Quaternium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonites; and fumed silicas with or without hydrophobic treatment (Silica Dimethyl Silylate), or else aerogels of hydrophobic silica (Silica Silylate), organic thickeners such as, for example, dextrin esters; preservatives; antioxidants; complexing agents; solvents; active agents; fragrances; etc.

[0258] These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.

[0259] These optional adjuvants may be present in a content which may range up to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0260] It should be noted that in accordance with one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention contains no oil or solid compound originating from the petrochemical industry.PREPARATION PROCESS

[0261] The composition according to the invention may be prepared according to the methods conventional in the field.

[0262] Commonly, the oils, waxes and solid fatty compounds are mixed, at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting temperature of the solid fatty substances.

[0263] Generally, the process is implemented at a temperature of between 80 and 150°C, preferably between 85 and 130°C.

[0264] When the mixture is homogenized, the pigments and fillers are added with stirring.

[0265] The mixture is then poured into molds and cools.

[0266] The solidified compositions are then demolded and packaged.

[0267] The examples that follow will allow the invention to be understood more clearly, without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0268] The starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name.

[0269] The amounts indicated are percentages by weight of starting materials, unless otherwise stated.EXAMPLESExample 1

[0270] The following composition, the list of the ingredients and the contents of which are collated in the table below, was prepared:

[0271] Ingredients (chemical name or INCI name)PhaseComposition 1Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate (Cosmol 43 V, Nisshin Oillio)Aqs 100Squalane (Neossance Squalane; Amyris)A18.0Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD-DA7; Nippon Fine Chemical)A6.6Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter (Iso Jojoba 50; Desert Whale)A2.9Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (Risocast DA-L, Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo)A3.3Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (LIPEX 204 FFL, Aarhuskarlshamn)A4.0Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 102, Aarhuskarlshamn)A4.9Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool G7; Nippon Fine Chemical)A17.6AntioxidantA0.5Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (Sunflower Wax; Keuster Keunen)B3.5Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (Jojoba Wax Flakes, Desert Whale)B1.8Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina E00168; Keuster Keunen)B4.1Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Multiceras)B1.2Colorants (pigments)C0.12Cellulose (Cellulobeads D-10; Daito Kasei Kogyo)D8.0Active agents / fragranceEqsPreparation process:

[0272] - Grind the pigments in the amount of oil(s) needed to disperse the pigments effectively, withdrawn from phase A (approximately the same content as the pigments), by means of a triple-roll mill or bead mill.

[0273] - Mix the remaining ingredients of phase A at a temperature of between 95 and 100°C, with stirring.

[0274] - When the mixture is homogenized, add phase B with stirring.

[0275] - When the mixture is homogeneous, add the pigment paste obtained beforehand, with stirring, and then after homogenization add the filler particles and lastly the active agents and fragrance.

[0276] - Pour the composition into molds preheated at 42°C.

[0277] - Place the molds at -25°C until the mold comes back to a temperature of 4°C.

[0278] - Prick the sticks to demold them, and package them in a supported lipstick device (diameter 11.6 mm).Evaluation of the composition

[0279] Appearance of the stickHomogeneous, no defect, smooth and glossyHardness(protocol in description)100 gThe composition is hard enough to be demolded and packaged easily.Gloss(protocol in description)11ApplicationApplication is easy and precise with good sliding, without slippage.On application, the composition appears to melt and when applied is homogeneous, glossy, very comfortable and non-sticky, with a sensation of care, moisturization and nourishment.Comparative Examples 2

[0280] The following compositions, the list of the ingredients and the contents of which are collated in the table below, were prepared:

[0281] Composition A, in which the cellulose particles are replaced with particles of nylon-12

[0282] Composition B, in which the cellulose particles are replaced with particles of silica

[0283] Composition C, in which the cellulose particles are replaced with particles of mica

[0284] Ingredient (chemical name or INCI name)PhaseComposition AComposition BComposition CPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate (Cosmol 43 V, Nisshin Oillio)Aqs 100qs 100qs 100Squalane (Neossance Squalane; Amyris)A18.018.018.0Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD-DA 7; Nippon Fine Chemical)A6.66.66.6Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter (Iso Jojoba 50; Desert Whale)A2.92.92.9Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (Risocast DA-L, Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo)A3.33.33.3Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter (Lipex 204 FFL, Aarhuskarlshamn)A4.04.04.0Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 102, Aarhuskarlshamn)A4.94.94.9Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool G7; Nippon Fine Chemical)A17.617.617.6AntioxidantA0.50.50.5Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (Sunflower Wax; Keuster Keunen)B3.53.53.5Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (Jojoba Wax Flakes, Desert Whale)B1.81.81.8Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax(Cera Bellina E00168; Keuster Keunen)B4.14.14.1Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Multiceras)B1.21.21.2Colorants (pigments)C0.120.120.12Nylon-12 (SP 50; Toray Industries)D8.0--Silica (BA4; JGC Catalysts & Chemicals)D-8.0-Mica (Mearlmica SV; Sun Chemical)D--8.0Active agents / fragranceEqsqsqsPreparation process

[0285] The compositions are prepared as detailed in Example 1.Evaluation of the compositions

[0286] Composition AComposition BComposition CAppearance of the stickHomogeneous, glossy with oily appearance, smooth, no defectHomogeneous, glossy with oily appearance, smooth, no defectHomogeneous, glossy, smooth, no defectHardness(protocol in description)120 gThe composition is demolded and packaged easily106 gThe composition is demolded and packaged easily100 gThe composition is demolded and packaged easilyGloss(protocol in description)3.33.33.9ApplicationApplication is easy but the texture of the applied composition is oily and sticky.Application remains easy, in spite of a substantial sliding effect. The texture of the applied composition is very oily, with a fatty sensation, more sticky.Application remains easy but is less smooth. The applied composition has an oily character, more sticky.Example 3

[0287] The following composition, the list of the ingredients and the contents of which are collated in the table below, was prepared:

[0288] Ingredients (chemical name or INCI name)PhaseComposition 2Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate (Cosmol 43 V, Nisshin Oillio)Aqs 100Squalane (Neossance Squalane; Amyris)A18.00Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD- DA7; Nippon Fine Chemical)A6.56Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter (Iso Jojoba 50; Desert Whale)A2.9Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (Risocast DA-L, Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo)A3.3Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 204 FFL, Aarhuskarlshamn)A4.0Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 102, Aarhuskarlshamn)A4.9Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool G7; Nippon Fine Chemical)A17.6AntioxidantA0.50Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (Sunflower Wax; Keuster Keunen)B3.5Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (Jojoba Wax Flakes, Desert Whale)B1.8Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax(Cera Bellina E00168; Keuster Keunen)B4.10Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Multiceras)B1.2Colorants (pigments)C0.12Cellulose (Cellulobeads USF; Daito Kasei Kogyo)D8.00Active agents / fragranceEqsPreparation process

[0289] The compositions are prepared as detailed in Example 1.Evaluation of the composition

[0290] Appearance of the stickHomogeneous, smooth, no defect, glossyHardness(protocol in description)145gThe composition is demolded and packaged easilyGloss(protocol in description)5ApplicationApplication is easy and precise, with good sliding. On application, the composition is melting and when applied is homogeneous, glossy and non-stickyComparative Example 4

[0291] The following comparative composition was prepared, in which the squalane is replaced with hydrogenated polyisobutene, with the list of the ingredients and the contents of said composition being collated in the table below:

[0292] Ingredients (chemical name or INCI name)PhaseComposition DPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate (Cosmol 43 V, Nisshin Oillio)Aqs 100Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parleam; NOF Corporation)A18.0Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD-DA7; Nippon Fine Chemical)A6.6Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter (Iso Jojoba 50; Desert Whale)A2.9Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (Risocast DA-L, Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo)A3.3Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 204 FFL, Aarhuskarlshamn)A4.0Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 102, Aarhuskarlshamn)A4.9Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool G7; Nippon Fine Chemical)A17.6AntioxidantA0.5Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (Sunflower Wax; Keuster Keunen)B3.5Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (Jojoba Wax Flakes, Desert Whale)B1.8Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina E00168; Keuster Keunen)B4.1Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Multiceras)B1.2Colorants (pigments)C0.12Cellulose (Cellulobeads D-10; Daito Kasei Kogyo)D8.00Active agents / fragranceEqsPreparation process

[0293] The compositions are prepared as detailed in Example 1.Evaluation of the composition

[0294] Appearance of the stickThe composition is too soft to be demolded and packaged correctly in a reproducible way.Hardness(protocol in description)25 gGloss(protocol in description)10ApplicationApplication is less easy, as the formula tends to become crushed. The applied composition is sticky and glossy.

Claims

A solid cosmetic composition comprising:* 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a filler chosen from cellulose particles;* at least a first polar ester hydrocarbon oil;* optionally, at least a second oil chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils which are linear and comprise 15 to 30 carbon atoms or are branched and comprise from 17 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably squalane;* at least one mixture of polar hydrocarbon waxes comprising sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and at least a third polar hydrocarbon wax, other than sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil, the total content of waxes being less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;* at least one hydrocarbon compound which is solid at 20°C, other than waxes, chosen from plant butters or obtained from plant oils, polyesters obtained at least from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the polyester obtained from the condensation of a C6-C10linear or branched dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol with C6-C20linear or branched monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated; and mixtures thereof;* optionally at least one additional oil, chosen from polar or apolar hydrocarbon oils other than the first and second oils, and silicone oils, in an amount not exceeding 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in the preceding claim, characterized in that the cellulose particles have an average size (D(50) by volume) of less than or equal to 40 µm, preferably of from 1 to 20 µm, preferably from 2 to 15 µm.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of cellulose particles ranges from 3% to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first oil is chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more optionally hydroxylated ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group, the total number of carbon atoms being at least 12, and mixtures thereof; and preferably from plant oils; ester oils other than plant oils, which are optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon radical, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms; the polyesters obtained from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid; the liquid polyesters obtained from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first oil is chosen from plant oils; ester oils other than plant oils, chosen from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic mono- and diesters, optionally hydroxylated, comprising at least 12 carbon atoms and advantageously from 12 to 80 carbon atoms; linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic triesters, optionally hydroxylated, comprising up to 80 carbon atoms; linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic tetraesters, optionally hydroxylated, comprising from 35 to 80 carbon atoms; the polyesters obtained from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid; the liquid polyesters obtained from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof; and preferably from:- plant oils;- triesters such as the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated triglycerides of C4-C36, more particularly C8-C20, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids; polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;- tetraesters such as the tetraesters of pentaerythritol or of polyglycerol with a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate;- the liquid polyesters obtained from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, with at least one alcohol dimer (dimer diol), preferably saturated, in which the alcohol comprises from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the compounds with the INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate;- mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of first oil(s) represents from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 15% to 55% by weight and preferably from 20% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least a second oil, preferably squalane.The composition as claimed in the preceding claim, characterized in that if the composition comprises squalane as second oil, the content of second apolar hydrocarbon oil other than squalane represents less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably still the composition comprises no volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) other than squalane.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of second oil(s) represents from 10% to 30% by weight, preferably from 12% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition may comprise at least one additional oil, different from the first oil and the second oil, more particularly chosen from non-volatile, polar or apolar hydrocarbon oils, from non-volatile silicone oils, from volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oils, and also mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in claim 10, characterized in that the additional oil is chosen from non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils such as C10-C26fatty alcohols, preferably monohydroxylated; ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', and in these formulae, identical or not, the groups R and R' represent a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group comprising not more than 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C3-C16group; and mixtures thereof; preferably at a content of less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the composition preferably is devoid of such an additional oil.The composition as claimed in claim 10, characterized in that the additional oil is chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils, more particularly chosen from liquid paraffin, hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polybutenes, hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof; preferably at a content of less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the composition preferably is devoid of such an additional oil.The composition as claimed in claim 10, characterized in that the additional oil is chosen from volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils, more particularly chosen from branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes, C8-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof; preferably at a content of less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the composition preferably is devoid of such an additional oil.The composition as claimed in claim 10, characterized in that the additional oil is chosen from non-volatile or volatile silicone oils, preferably at a content of less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the composition preferably is devoid of such an additional oil.The composition as claimed in claim 10, characterized in that the content of additional volatile or non-volatile silicone or hydrocarbon oils is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the composition preferably is devoid of such additional oils.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of sunflower wax is between 1.5% and 8% by weight, especially between 1.8% and 8% by weight, preferably between 2% and 7% by weight, or indeed between 2% and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of hydrogenated jojoba oil is from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the additional polar hydrocarbon wax different from sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes of ester wax or alcohol wax type or mixtures thereof, and preferably at least one ester wax chosen from:i) waxes of formula R1COOR2in which R1and R2represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and the melting point temperature of which ranges from 45 to 120°C, preferably a C20-C40alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate or a C20-C40alkyl stearate;ii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid, of general formulaR3-(OCO-R4-COOR5), in which R3and R5are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30alkyl group and R4represents a linear or branched aliphatic C4-C30group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations;iii) waxes of animal or plant origin other than sunflower wax, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, these waxes being refined or unrefined, and also mixtures thereof;iv) waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils, other than hydrogenated jojoba oil, or else by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of plant origin and plant oil;v) natural or synthetic polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated waxes of animal or plant origin, preferably polyoxyethylenated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax and PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated and hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated lanolin waxes, such as PEG-30 lanolin and PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, esters obtained from the reaction of the plant waxes Acacia decurrens flower wax, jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax and polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof;vi) waxes corresponding to the partial or total esters, preferably total esters, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C16-C30carboxylic acid with glycerol, preferably the compounds with the following INCI names: Trihydroxystearin, Tristearin, Tribehenin, and mixtures thereof;vii) mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the additional polar wax is chosen from plant waxes, especially candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof; from natural or synthetic polyglycerolated waxes of animal or plant origin, in particular polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, esters obtained from the reaction of the plant waxes Acacia decurrens flower wax, jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax and polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of additional polar wax(es) ranges from 3% to 9% by weight, preferably from 3.5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of waxes is less than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more advantageously at a content of at least 7% by weight, preferably of at least 9% by weight, in particular of at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon compound which is solid at 20°C and is other than waxes is chosen from* the compounds having the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof;* plant butters such as, for example, mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, jojoba butter, and mixtures thereof;- compounds having the INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, and mixtures thereof;- the compound having the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2,- mixtures thereof;and preferably chosen from the compounds having the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof; mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, jojoba butter, and mixtures thereof; and mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of one or more hydrocarbon compounds solid at 20°C and other than waxes ranges from 20% to 40% by weight, preferably from 25% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition may comprise at least one colorant chosen from pulverulent colorants, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof, more particularly from pigments, and also mixtures thereof.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains less than 2% by weight of water, preferably less than 1% by weight of water and advantageously less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition more preferably still being free from water.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a gloss value of at least 5, more particularly at least 6, preferably at least 7.5, and not more than 20, more particularly not more than 15, measured by means of a glossmeter according to the following protocol:The test sample is heated to a temperature sufficient to allow it to be spread, this temperature more particularly being of the order of 98°C.The composition is then spread as a film on a Byko Chart 2A® or Penopac 1A® contrast card from Byk using an automatic film spreader of the Byko-Drive XL® type from Byk equipped with a film spreading bar such as a 5353® variable slit height square from Byk, set for a slit height of 50.8 µm.The contrast card is thus placed on the applicator platform and the 50.8 µm slit side of the bar is placed on the contrast card at the information area to be filled in. About 2 g of product are deposited directly in front of the bar. The automatic applicator is started and the bar is moved to ensure that an even film of the required thickness is deposited.The film is left to dry at 25°C for 15 minutes.The gloss of the film applied to the black areas of the contrast card is measured at an incident angle of 60° and expressed in Gloss Units.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a stick, in particular having a hardness of between 80 and 150 g, more particularly 80 to 120 g.A method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips, which consists in applying the composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims.