Hair conditioning composition and method for conditioning the hair
A hair conditioning composition with cationic surfactants and biobased ingredients addresses the challenges of maintaining curly hair shape and hydration, offering long-lasting curl definition and frizz control with a natural look.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/BR2024/050265
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-20
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-26
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair care products for curly hair fail to provide long-lasting curl definition, frizz control, and natural look without weighing down the hair, while also posing environmental concerns due to petrochemical ingredients.
A hair conditioning composition comprising cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols, alcohol esters, nonionic polymers, and fatty acids, which form a light film on the hair to maintain curl shape and hydration without build-up, using biobased ingredients for sustainability.
The composition provides long-lasting curl definition, frizz control, and a natural look without weighing down the hair, while being environmentally friendly and easy to apply, with improved manageability and shine.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR CONDITIONING THE HAIR
[0002] FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0003] The present invention is directed to hair conditioning compositions comprising (a) at least two cationic surfactants; (b) at least one fatty alcohol; (c) at least one alcohol ester; (d) at least one nonionic polymer; (e) at least one fatty acid; and (f) at least one fatty compound, and mixtures thereof. The invention is also related to a method for conditioning the hair, particularly curly hair.
[0004] BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0005] People have been using several cosmetic and personal care compositions to enhance the look and feel of keratin fibers, such as the hair.
[0006] Particularly regarding curly hair, consumers are always dealing with problems related to the definition of the curls such as frizz, volume, and shape. Curly hair tends to become frizzy and significantly expand in volume when exposed to high humidity conditions, chemical treatments, among others. Additionally, the shape and definition of the curls are lost after sleeping.
[0007] Many attempts to develop products to discipline, define and control the hair, in particular curly hair, enhancing / maintaining curl definition, curl retention, and curl regularity, without leaving the hair feeling and / or looking unnatural and stiff were made, but such products resulted in additional problems or maintenance difficulty.
[0008] The standard curly hair routine includes the use of several cosmetic products through the entire length of the hair and must be reset every three days, since the curls tend to lose definition and fresh-looking aspect after such period - it is a very time-consuming routine that involves the consumers restarting all the steps in about every three days, including washing the hair and applying different cosmetic products.
[0009] It is desirable to have a hair cosmetic product for curly hair that not only helps defining the curls, but also provide long lasting cosmetic benefits to the consumer’s hair such as resistance to frizz, that leave the hair shiny and that is easy to apply and does not leave the hair feeling wet or heavy, that improve with the use of such product.
[0010] The formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is also becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions to address these environmental concerns. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and I or materials with a good index of naturalness and I or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0011] Therefore, there is still a need to develop compositions for conditioning the curly hair, which does not weigh down the curls, so that it returns to its original shape. The object of the present invention is to form an effective film to close the curly hair cuticle, so it will stay hydrated, and not heavy.
[0012] The present invention overcame the drawbacks of the state of the art and achieved a new hair cosmetic composition with no silicone and no sulfate designed for curly hair providing a fast rinsing and predefinition of curls.
[0013] The inventors of the present invention surprisingly and unexpectedly achieved hair cosmetic compositions, particularly designed for curly hair, comprising (a) at least two cationic surfactants; (b) at least one fatty alcohol; (c) at least one alcohol ester; (d) at least one nonionic polymer; (e) at least one fatty acid; and (f) at least one fatty compound other than (b) or (e), and mixtures thereof, that are able to not only penetrate the hair fiber without building-up on the fiber’s surface, while also providing curl definition until the next wash, long lasting of definition of the curls, frizz control, natural look and desirable volume, and that does not look heavy on the hair, but also provides cosmetic benefits such shine, gliding touch, spreadability. It was also discovered that these cosmetic benefits were more pronounced with the multiapplication of the product (cumulative effect).
[0014] The present invention aims to provide hair conditioning compositions that do not weigh down hair, that do not make the hair flat, keeps the waves, and do not give appearance of frizz. The compositions allow the curls to keep the waves, without needing to frequently rewash to reset style, provide suppleness, movement, and shine, and makes the hair less prone to breakage.
[0015] Also, a light film is formed on hair surface, and the compositions active are stuck inside hair fiber and restore the emollience removed by the shampoo, thereby providing easy hair manageability and curls predefinition.
[0016] SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0017] The present invention relates to hair conditioning compositions comprising: (a) at least two cationic surfactants; (b) at least one fatty alcohol; (c) at least one alcohol ester; (d) at least one nonionic polymer; (e) at least one fatty acid; and (f) at least one fatty compound other than (b) and (e).
[0018] The present invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.
[0019] The inventors have found that the hair conditioning composition according to the present invention can provide a high melting and fast hair transformation due to combination of cationic surfactants with melting agents as esters and fatty alcohols. Due to the nature and lightness of the film formed on hair surface, it is expected that the shape of the curls structure themselves achieve a more natural look that is close to its natural shape, which is unlikely to happen with thicker film deposition that makes hair prone to lose curls definition / shape and movement.
[0020] To achieve the objective of the invention, many raw materials in different ratios and concentrations were tested to achieve the best performers in curls score definition, frizz and smoothness. The invention was designed to achieve better sustainable parameters as biodegradability in an alternative a petrochemical ingredient - functional application for biobased ingredients in hair care. Also, the composition of the present invention can be used to restore the emollience taken away by the shampoo mainly for curly hair. Further subjects, characteristics, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.
[0021] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0022] In an embodiment, the hair conditioning compositions of the present invention comprises:
[0023] (a) from about 0.1 % to about 20.0%, preferably from about 2.0% to about 16.0%, and more preferably from about 4.0 to about 12.0% by weight of at least two cationic surfactants;
[0024] (b) from about 0.1 % to about 35.0%, preferably from about 1 .0% to about 15.0%, and more preferably from about 2.0% to about 10% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol;
[0025] (c) from about 0.1 % to about 15.0%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 3.0%, and more preferably from about 0.5% to about 2.0% by weight by weight of at least one alcohol ester; (d) from about 0.1 % to about 10.0%, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 5.0%, and more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 3.0% by weight of at least one nonionic polymer;
[0026] (e) from about 0.1 % to about 15.0%, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 10.0%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 5.0%, and most preferably from about 0.1 % to about 3.0% by weight of at least one fatty acid; and
[0027] (f) from about 0.1 % to about 25.0%, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 5.0%, and more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 3.0% by weight of at least one fatty compound, other than the (b) fatty alcohol and the (e) fatty acid; wherein all amounts are relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0028] In a preferred embodiment, the at least two cationic surfactants are selected from the combination of methosulfate as a counterion and alkyl amidoamine.
[0029] In further preferred embodiment, the at least one methosulfate is preferably selected from dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, undecylenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl dimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, and the at least one alkyl amidoamine is preferably selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl methylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0030] The amount of the methosulfate in the composition ranges from about 0.05% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably from about 1 .0% to about 8.0% by weight, preferably from about 2.0% to about 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] The amount of the alkyl amidoamine in the composition ranges from about 0.05% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably from about 1.0% to about 8.0% by weight, preferably from about 2.0% to about 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0032] In a preferred embodiment, at least one fatty alcohol is selected from fatty alcohols having alkyl chain length ranging from 8 to 44 carbons, such as cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0033] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one alcohol ester is selected from cetyl esters. In a preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, starch derivatives, sclerotium gum, ethoxylate esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0034] In a preferred embodiment the at least one nonionic polymer is a polymer with molecular weight ranging from 500.000 to 2.000.000.
[0035] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one fatty acid is selected from fatty acids with a chain length ranging from 8 to 22 carbons, such as lauric acid, myristic acid, Coconut oil, Murumuru butter, Babassu oil, Shea butter, Abyssinian oil, Cupuagu butter, llcuuba butter, and mixtures thereof.
[0036] In another preferred embodiment, the at least one fatty compound is selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, vegetable butters, and mixtures thereof.
[0037] The invention is also related to a process for conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition for conditioning onto the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.
[0038] According to the present invention, the viscosity of the hair conditioning composition 1000 mPa.s - 6200 mPa.s.
[0039] The pH of the hair conditioning composition according to the present invention ranges from 3.0 to 5.0.
[0040] In a preferred embodiment, the hair conditioning compositions comprises a combination of cationic surfactant (such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, esterquat Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate), fatty alcohol and alcohol ester (such as cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and cetyl esters), nonionic polymer (such as hydroxyethylcellulose), fatty acids (such as lauric acid and myristic acid), and fatty compound, which is a vegetable compound (such as Virola surinamensis Seed Butter, Copaifera officinalis resin), and mixtures thereof.
[0041] TERMS
[0042] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions “between... and...” and “from... to ... ”. As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.
[0043] As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., “consisting of”).
[0044] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0045] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about”. Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required.
[0046] As used herein, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
[0047] As used herein, “conditioning” means imparting to the hair at least one property chosen from compatibility, manageability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, smoothness, and softness. The state of conditioning is evaluated by comparing the hair treated with the composition to be tested in contrast with the hair treated with a commercial product.
[0048] As used herein, “stable” means that the composition is not layered.
[0049] CATIONIC SURFACTANTS
[0050] The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention comprises at least two cationic surfactants.
[0051] Particularly, the cationic surfactant is a combination of at least one methosulfate with at least one alkyl amidoamine, wherein the methosulfate is preferably selected from dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol, and the alkyl amidoamine is preferably selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0052] FATTY ALCOHOLS
[0053] The hair conditioning compositions according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol, preferably at least one C8-C44 fatty alcohol.
[0054] As examples of C8-C44 fatty alcohols, mention can be made of isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and myricyl alcohol.
[0055] The fatty alcohol may be chosen from those having from 8 to 44 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0056] These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated.
[0057] Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, preferred fatty alcohols are selected from: C12 Lauric Acid, C14 Myristic Acid, C16:0 Palmitic Acid, C16:1 Palmitoleic Acid, C18:0 Stearic acid, C18:1 Oleic acid, C18:2 Linoleic acid, C20:0 Arachidic Acid, C22:0 Behenic Acid, C22:1 Erucic acid, C24:0 Lignoceric Acid, C24: Tetracosanoic acid, C26: Hexacosanoic acid, C28: Octacosanoic acid, C30: Triacontanoic acid, C32: Docosanoic acid, C34: Tetratriacontanoic acid, C36: Hexatriacontanoic acid, C38: Octatriacontanoic acid, C40: Tetracontanoic acid, C42: Dotetracontanoic acid, and C44: Tetratetracontanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0058] In some cases, the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0059] Fatty alcohols according to the present invention are selected from fatty alcohols having alkyl chain length ranging from 8 to 44 carbons, such as cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0060] ALCOHOL ESTERS
[0061] The hair conditioning compositions according to the present invention comprises at least one alcohol ester derived from a reaction between C12 to C22 monoalcohols and C12 to C22 fatty acids, e.g., cetyl esters. In preferential embodiments, the at least one alcohol ester may be selected from, but not limited to, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetyl esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0062] NONIONIC POLYMER
[0063] The hair conditioning compositions according to the present invention comprises at least one nonionic polymer selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, starch derivatives, sclerotium gum, ethoxylate esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] The nonionic polymer of the present invention is a polymer with molecular weight ranging from 500.000 to 2.000.000.
[0065] FATTY ACID
[0066] The hair conditioning compositions according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty acid selected from fatty acids with a chain length ranging from 8 to 22 carbons, such as lauric acid, myristic acid, Coconut oil, Murumuru butter, Babassu oil, Shea butter, Abyssinian oil, Cupuagu butter, llcuuba butter.
[0067] FATTY COMPOUND
[0068] The hair conditioning compositions according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, vegetable butters, and mixtures thereof.
[0069] The at least one fatty compound as described herein comprises from 8 to 44 carbons and is present in amount ranging from 0.1 to 25.0%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0070] Vegetal Oil
[0071] In a non-limitative and preferred embodiment, the at least one vegetal oil is selected from coconut oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, avocado oil, soybean oil, camelina oil, coffee oil, castor oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, black pepper essential oil, birch oil, camphor, cannabis oil, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, carrot seed oil, chamomile oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, citronella oil, clary sage, clove leaf oil, coffee, coriander, costmary oil, cranberry seed oil, cubeb, cumin oil, dill oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel seed oil, fenugreek oil, fir, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, grapeseed oil, henna oil, horseradish oil, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass, marjoram, melaleuca, lemon balm oil, mountain savory, mugwort oil, mustard oil, myrrh oil, myrtle, neem tree oil, neroli, nutmeg, orange oil, oregano oil, orris oil, palo santo, parsley oil, peppermint oil, pine oil, plum oil, rose oil, rosehip oil, rosemary oil, rosewood oil, sandalwood oil, spruce, star anise oil, tarragon oil, tea tree oil, thyme oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0072] In some embodiments, the suitable vegetal oils for use in the hair care compositions of the present invention are selected from coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, com oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, wheatgerm oil, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy oil, hazel nut oil, colza oil, cade oil, peach kernel oil, jojoba oil, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0073] When present, the vegetal oil can improve the penetration effect.
[0074] In a preferred embodiment, the vegetal oil of the present invention is coconut oil, that is mainly composed by Lauric acid, Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Caprylic Acid, Capric Acid. Other oils with the same composition could be suitable in the hair conditioning composition of the present invention, such as Babassu oil.
[0075] In another preferred embodiment, the hair conditioning composition of the present invention further comprises at least one vegetal oil selected from, argan oil, soybean oil and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the hair conditioning composition of the present invention comprise a mixture of vegetal oils and vegetal resins, such as coconut oil and Copaiba Officinalis (Balsam Copaiba resin) (copaiba resin or copaiba oleoresin).
[0076] Vegetal Resin
[0077] In a non-limitative example, the vegetal resin of the present invention is Copaifera officinalis (BALSAM COPAIBA) RESIN (INCI name) which can be in the form of a Copaiba oil resin or Copaiba resin. Copaifera officinalis (BALSAM COPAIBA) RESIN is commercially available under the tradename of RAIN FOREST RF3310 (also known by the chemical name of Copaiba Oleoresin) or under the tradename of RAIN FOREST 03370 (also known by the chemical name of Copaiba resin), both from the supplier Beraca Ingredientes Naturais.
[0078] Vegetal Waxes
[0079] In a non-limitative example, the vegetal wax is selected from Candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, beeswax, and mixtures thereof.
[0080] Vegetal Butters
[0081] In a non-limitative example, the vegetal butter is selected from Virola surinamensis Seed Butter, Copaifera officinalis resin, Ucuuba butter, myristic acid, Cupuagu butter, Shea butter, Abyssinian oil, and mixtures thereof. ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
[0082] The hair conditioning composition according to the present invention may also comprise any other additional ingredient that is usually used in the field of conditioning hair products, in particular hair conditioners.
[0083] The hair conditioning composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one additional cosmetically acceptable ingredient, such as solvents, water, preservatives, pH adjusters, fragrances, and mixtures thereof.
[0084] Other additional ingredients may include thickeners, sequestrants and chelators, consistency regulators, antioxidants, dyestuffs such as soluble dyes and pigments, optical brighteners, electrolytes and stabilizers, plant extracts, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, glycols, emollients, derivatives of the foregoing, and mixtures thereof.
[0085] Non-limiting examples of pH adjusting agents includes potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, sodium citrate, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid, glutamic acid, maleic acid, aspartic acid, boric acid, lactic acid, sodium hydrogen carbonate, ethanol amines, and mixtures thereof. The pH adjusting agent is used in an amount so that the pH of the hair conditioning composition of the present invention is less than or equal to 6, preferably from 2.5 to 5.0, more preferably from 3.5 to 4.5.
[0086] For example, such additional ingredients may include humectants, oil resin mixtures, conditioning agents, pH adjusters, fragrances / perfumes, preservatives, among others, and mixtures thereof.
[0087] Non-limitative examples of such additional ingredients are as follows:
[0088] - humectant polyols, such as glycerin, ranging from 0.1 to 10.0%, preferably from 0.1 to 5.0%;
[0089] - conditioning agents including silicones and non-silicone fatty compounds, oils, ester oils, preferably an unsaturated fatty alcohol or a mixture of them in a concentration w / w ranging from 0.1 % to 10.0%;
[0090] - pH adjusting agents: potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, sodium citrate, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid, glutamic acid, maleic acid, aspartic acid, boric acid, lactic acid, sodium hydrogen carbonate, ethanol amines, and mixtures thereof;
[0091] - preservatives: phenoxyethanol, tocopherol, among others. - oil resin mixtures of sesquiterpenes and diterpenes, with the copalic acid, e.g., Copaiba Oleoresin, Bleu resin, Citrue resin, ranging from 0.05 to 2.5%, preferably 0.1 to 0.8%;
[0092] - anionic surfactants, alone or as a mixture: C6-C24 and especially C12- C20 alkyl sulfates; C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates; C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates; C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; especially palmitoylsarcosinates; C6-C24 alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably C12-C20 alkyl ether carboxylates; polyoxyalkylenated C6-C24 alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups; C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglutamates; C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglycinates; in particular, the anionic surfactant is in the form of alkali metal such as sodium or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts, wherein the anionic surfactants are in a concentration w / w ranging from 0.1 % to 10%;
[0093] - amphoteric surfactants, alone or as a mixture: optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, wherein the amphoteric surfactants are in a concentration w / w ranging from 0.1 % to 10.0%;
[0094] - nonionic surfactants, alone or as a mixture: oxyalkylenated (Cs- C24)alkylphenols; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C40 alcohols, preferably including one or two fatty chains; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs to C30 fatty acid amides; esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols; preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol; esters of fatty acids and of sucrose; (C8-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, (Cs- C3o)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprise from 1 to 15 glucose units, (Cs- C3o)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters; saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide; N-(Cs- C3o)alkylglucamine and N-(C8-C3o)acylmethylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides, wherein the nonionic surfactants are in a concentration w / w ranging from 0.1 % to 10%;
[0095] - fragrance;
[0096] - among others.
[0097] The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional ingredients so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0098] A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and / or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
[0099] The additional ingredients may represent from about 1 % to about 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0100] EMBODIMENT OF THE INVENTION
[0101] In one embodiment, the hair conditioning composition is as follows:
[0102] (a) from about 0.1 % to about 20.0% by weight of at least two cationic surfactants, selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate;
[0103] (b) from about 0.1 % to about 35.0% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol, selected from cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;
[0104] (c) from about 0.1 % to about 15.0% by weight of at least one alcohol ester selected from cetyl esters;
[0105] (d) from about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight of at least one nonionic polymer, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, starch derivatives, sclerotium gum, ethoxylate esters, and mixtures thereof;
[0106] (e) from about 0.1 % to about 15.0% by weight of at least one fatty acid with chain length ranging from 8 to 22 carbons, selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, Coconut oil, Murumuru butter, Babassu oil, Shea butter, Abyssinian oil, Cupuagu butter, llcuuba butter, and mixtures thereof; and (f) from about 0.1 % to about 25.0% by weight at least one fatty compound, selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, vegetable butters, and mixtures thereof; all weights relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0107] METHOD FOR PREPARING THE HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION
[0108] The hair conditioning composition according to the present invention can be prepared by the following steps:
[0109] 1- In the main kettle, add 30% by weight of total water;
[0110] 2- Hydrate rheological agents
[0111] 3- Heat up to 65°C and add raw materials that need to melt;
[0112] 4- Proceed to emulsification and after complete, starting cooling;
[0113] 5- Adding the remaining water and homogenizing the mixture;
[0114] 6- Add additional raw material and homogenize the mixture.
[0115] The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0116] According to the second aspect of the present invention, a process for conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair, and then rinsing with water after an optional period of exposure.
[0117] Furthermore, the hair conditioning composition according to the present invention can be applied on wet or dry hair.
[0118] The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and shall not be interpreted as limiting the scope.
[0119] EXAMPLES
[0120] By way of non-limiting illustration, the inventive compositions according to the present invention will now be described in Table 1 .
[0121] Table 1
[0122]
[0123] EXAMPLE 4
[0124] EXAMPLE 5
[0125] Sensorial test conducted by trained expert hairdressers to evaluate comparatively the performance of the proposed products. In our case, we can consider examples 1 , 2 and 3 from table 1 compared to the state of the art listed above (Ex. 4).
[0126] Three different tests with different bundles conducted by professional hairdressers with 4 volunteers each (Experts tests with hair target III - IV) and showed that, using different shampoos, conditioners comprising different combinations, all of them comprised in the claimed ranges, were able to provide better cosmetic attributes over the benchmark, such as speed of Hair transformation and suppleness during conditioner application and better smooth touch, softness, and suppleness after rinse.
[0127] During Wet Stage, the conditioner had a trend to be better during the detangling with more suppleness. In the dry hair, the products showed some trends to be better in visual attributes as discipline, best visual, curl definition, shine and more Lightness and Suppleness.
[0128] A qualitative test performed in Brazil with consumer hair type III - IV versus a bench product showed that they delivery similar performance providing moisturizing feeling, softness, and definition for dry hair.
[0129] QUALITATIVE TEST RESULTS
[0130] Prior art conditioner - Ex. 4
[0131] This conditioner comes with good moisturizing, softness, and definition perception, even though, some of the consumers believed they needed to use more product to have a better absorption. Consumers mentioned that felt hair soft and moisturized after conditioner application. The conditioner already brings definition for curls.
[0132] Scent is pleasant and lasting, and reminds the smell of fruits and candy, causing a good sensation.
[0133] Texture has ideal consistency for most of consumers but thicker to some. Need to use a larger amount of product, due to the thicker texture. It doesn’t run through the hands.
[0134] Inventive conditioner A - Ex. 2
[0135] Inventive conditioner A provides moisturizing, even for those who felt dryness after shampoo application. For those consumers who mentioned dry hair after using the shampoo, they found that their hair felt moisturized even though the previous sensation left by the shampoo was hair dryness.
[0136] Some consumers mentioned the need to use a larger amount of product (those who felt dryness). Punctually, consumers mentioned difficult to spread due to hair dryness.
[0137] Scent is pleasant and soft, and it reminds the smell of flowers (a little bit weak but still pleasant). Few consumers mentioned that would like the conditioner to have the same scent as the shampoo.
[0138] Texture has ideal and firm consistency. It doesn’t run through the hands, and it is easy to apply and rinse.
[0139] Inventive conditioner B - Ex. 1
[0140] Inventive conditioner B stands out for scent, texture, and softness.
[0141] Consumers highlighted the creamy texture, very pleasant and softness smell.
[0142] Scent is pleasant and soft, and it reminds the smell of flowers. Some consumers mentioned a preference for a slightly stronger scent.
[0143] Texture has ideal and firm consistency. The inventive conditioner B has creamy texture without being watery when applied, and it is easy to apply and rinse (association with a hair mousse).
[0144] Inventive conditioner C - Ex. 1
[0145] Inventive conditioner C, on the other hand, provides detangle, softness, and moisturizing after application.
[0146] Consumers mentioned that felt their hair detangled, soft, and moisturized after application. Inventive conditioner C already brings definition for curls. Scent is pleasant and soft, representing a perfect scent that reminds the smell of flowers, candy, and fruits.
[0147] Texture has ideal and firm consistency. Most consumers remarked that that the inventive conditioner C was desirable because of its dense consistency, which thereby reduced product waste. Only a few consumers said that the consistency of the inventive conditioner C was thinner than desired, i.e. had a consistency like mayonnaise.
[0148] The qualitative test results demonstrated that the inventive hair conditioning compositions according to the present invention are effective to provide moisturizing feeling, softness, and definition for dry hair, as well as have a consistency that allows an easy application and rinsing and have a pleasant and soft smell.
Claims
SET OF CLAIMS1. Hair conditioning composition, comprising:(a) from 0.1 % to 20.0% by weight of at least two cationic surfactants;(b) from 0.1 % to 35.0% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol;(c) from 0.1 % to 15.0% by weight of at least one alcohol ester;(d) from 0.1 % to 10.0% by weight of at least one nonionic polymer;(e) from 0.1 % to 15.0% by weight of at least one fatty acid; and(f) from 0.1 % to 25.0% by weight of at least one fatty compound, other than the (b) fatty alcohol and the (e) fatty acid; wherein all amounts are relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the two cationic surfactants are selected from a combination of methosulfate and alkyl amidoamine, and wherein the at least one methosulfate is selected from dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, undecylenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl dimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate, and / or dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, and the at least one alkyl amidoamine is selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
3. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the methosulfate is present in amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and the alkyl amidoamine is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, both relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from fatty alcohols having alkyl chain length ranging from 8 to 44 carbons, selected from dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, lauric Acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid, lignoceric acid, tetracosanoic acid, hexacosanoic acid, octacosanoic acid, triacontanoic acid, docosanoic acid, tetratriacontanoic acid, hexatriacontanoic acid, octatriacontanoic acid, tetracontanoic acid, dotetracontanoic acid, tetratetracontanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the alcohol ester is selected from cetyl esters.
6. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one nonionic polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, starch derivatives, sclerotium gum, ethoxylate esters, and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the nonionic polymer is a polymer with molecular weight ranging from 500.000 to 2.000.000.
8. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the fatty acid is selected from fatty acids with a chain length ranging from 8 to 22 carbons, such as lauric acid, myristic acid, Coconut oil, Murumuru butter, Babassu oil, Shea butter, Abyssinian oil, Cupuagu butter, llcuuba butter, and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one fatty compound is selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, vegetable butters, and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition for conditioning the hair comprising:(a) from 0.1 to 20% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from a combination of at least one methosulfate selected from dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, undecylenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl dimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate, and / or dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, with at least one alkyl amidoamine selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;(b) from 0.1 to 35% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol selected from is selected from fatty alcohols having alkyl chain length ranging from 8 to 44 carbons, such as cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;(c) from 0.1 to 15% by weight of at least one alcohol ester selected from cetyl esters;(d) from 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one nonionic polymer selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, starch derivatives, sclerotium gum, ethoxylate esters, and mixtures thereof;(e) from 0.1 to 15% by weight of at least one fatty acid selected from fatty acids with a chain length ranging from 8 to 22 carbons, such as lauric acid, myristic acid, Coconut oil, Murumuru butter, Babassu oil, Shea butter, Abyssinian oil, Cupuagu butter, llcuuba butter, and mixtures thereof; and (f) from 0.1 to 25% by weight of at least one fatty compound selected from vegetal oils, vegetal resins, vegetal waxes, vegetable butters, and mixtures thereof.
11. A method for conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition, as defined in any of claims 1 -10, onto the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional period of exposure.
Citation Information
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