Silicone-free hair care product

Abstract

Silicone-free hair care products which contain at least one specific diesterquat and at least one vegetable oil in a cosmetic carrier are suitable for improving the care properties of hair, in particular for improving the detangleability, wet and dry combability, feel, volume and shine of hair.

Description

[0001] “Silicone-free hair care product”

[0002] The invention relates to silicone-free hair care products comprising a combination of specific diesterquats and vegetable oils. The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of the silicone-free products to improve the conditioning properties of hair.

[0003] Not least due to the heavy strain on hair, such as dyeing or perming, frequent cleaning with shampoos and subsequent drying with hairdryer heat, as well as environmental pollution, the importance of hair care products is constantly increasing.

[0004] At the same time, the issue of sustainability, driven by a steadily growing need among consumers, is increasingly coming into focus for cosmetics manufacturers.

[0005] Hair care products in a wide variety of forms are well-known and commercially available. A large proportion of these products contain silicones, as these provide hair with numerous conditioning benefits.

[0006] When providing sustainable products, the use of silicones is largely avoided, but this usually leads to disadvantages in the care performance of the products.

[0007] Numerous attempts have been made to eliminate these disadvantages. For example, tests have been conducted to see if the absence of silicones could be compensated for by increasing the concentration of other conditioning ingredients. This was only partially successful, because while satisfactory to good conditioning results were achieved on wet hair, the conditioning performance of such products was insufficient on dry hair.

[0008] From DE 102021213218 silicone-free hair care products are known which contain trimethylglycine, specific esterquats as well as mono-, di- and triglycerides of vegetable oils.

[0009] Nevertheless, there remains a need for natural, balanced, and simply formulated cosmetic products with excellent skincare properties. The resulting skincare effects should be at least comparable to those of products containing silicones.

[0010] These tasks were solved by providing a silicone-free hair care product containing in a cosmetic carrier a) at least one diesterquat of the following formula (II) wherein

[0011] RI, R2 are the same or different and represent a Ci-O4 alkyl group, Rs, R4 are the same or different and represent the group -CH2-CH(R5)-ORe, in which

[0012] R5 stands for H or for a Ci-Ce alkyl group,

[0013] Re stands for an acyl group of at least a singly unsaturated carboxylic acid with a carbon chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms, and

[0014] X- represents a halide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, maleate, fumarate, citrate, lactate, oxalate, tartrate or acetate ion, and b) contains at least one vegetable oil.

[0015] The silicone-free hair care products according to the invention ensure an excellent balance between hair care and protection of the hair fibers. The specific care formula guarantees product stability while requiring minimal use of consistency enhancers.

[0016] In particular, the application of the hair care products according to the invention to wet and dry hair resulted in excellent care effects such as improved detangling, combability, and feel. A further advantage is that hair treated with the hair care products according to the invention is easier to style and manage, and that they give volume and shine to dry hair right down to the ends.

[0017] The improved biodegradability compared to silicone-containing products represents a further advantage of the hair care products according to the invention, as they contain a predominant proportion of active ingredients from sustainable sources.

[0018] The subject matter of the invention and preferred embodiments are defined by the following

[0019] Statements marked:

[0020] 1. Silicone-free hair care product containing in a cosmetic carrier a) at least one diesterquat of the following formula (II) wherein

[0021] Ri, R2 are the same or different and represent a Ci-C4 alkyl group,

[0022] R3, R4 are the same or different and represent the grouping -CH2-CH(Re)-OR6, in which

[0023] R5 stands for H or for a Ci-Ce alkyl group,

[0024] Re stands for an acyl group of at least a singly unsaturated carboxylic acid with a carbon chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms, and

[0025] X- represents a halide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, maleate, fumarate, citrate, lactate, oxalate, tartrate, or acetate ion, and b) at least one vegetable oil. Silicone-free hair care product according to statement 1, containing as diesterquat a) compounds according to formula (II), wherein

[0026] Ri and R2 each represent methyl groups.

[0027] R3 and R4 each represent the grouping -CH2-CH2-OR6,

[0028] Re stands for an acyl group of at least a singly unsaturated carboxylic acid with a carbon chain length of 18 to 20 carbon atoms, and

[0029] X- represents a halide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate, or acetate ion. A silicone-free hair care product according to any of the preceding statements, containing as diesterquat a) at least one compound known under the INCI name Dioleylethyl Dimonium Chloride. A silicone-free hair care product according to any of the preceding statements, containing at least one diesterquat a) in a weight fraction of 0.1–6 wt.%, more preferably 0.2–5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25–5 wt.%, and especially 0.5–4.5 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care product.Silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding statements, containing as vegetable oil b) at least one oil from the group of amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, canola oil, cranberry oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, mallow oil, almond oil, mango kernel oil, marula oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, peach kernel oil, rambutan oil, rapeseed oil, rice bran oil, castor oil, sacha inchi oil, safflower oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sasanqua oil, sesame oil, Shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tea tree oil, grapeseed oil, tsubaki oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, meadowfoam oil and / or rosehip oil.A silicone-free hair care product according to any of the preceding statements, containing as vegetable oil b) sunflower oil, apricot kernel oil, jojoba oil, or mixtures thereof. A silicone-free hair care product according to any of the preceding statements, containing at least one vegetable oil b) in a weight fraction of 0.05–3 wt.%, more preferably 0.1–3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25–3 wt.%, and especially 0.5–2.5 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care product. A silicone-free hair care product according to any of the preceding statements, further containing—based on its total weight—0.1–10 wt.% of at least one conditioning agent selected from the group of.

[0030] (i) Triglycerides with a carbon chain length of 6 to 14 carbon atoms,

[0031] (ii) Isopropyl esters with a carbon chain length of 10 to 20 carbon atoms,

[0032] (iii) C2-Ce polyols,

[0033] (iv) Trimethylglycine (v) or mixtures thereof.

[0034] 9. Silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding statements, containing at least two conditioning active ingredients selected from among the INCI names

[0035] (i) Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides,

[0036] (ii) Isopropyl Myristate,

[0037] (iii) Glycerines,

[0038] (iv) Trimethylglycine known compounds.

[0039] 10. Silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding statements, containing at least one - possibly canonized - amidoamine in a weight fraction of 0.1 - 3.0 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care product.

[0040] 1. Silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding statements, containing at least one amidoamine of the following formula (I) wherein

[0041] Ri stands for a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alk(en)yl residue with 19 to 30 carbon atoms,

[0042] R2, R3 independently represent -H or a Ci-C4 alkyl group, and x represents an integer from 2 to 6.

[0043] 12. Silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding statements, containing at least one amidoamine known under the INCI name Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine.

[0044] 13. Silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding statements, containing at least one non-ionic emulsifier in a weight fraction of up to 3.0 wt.% of the total weight of the product.

[0045] 14. Silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding statements, containing at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid in a weight fraction of 0.1 - 5.0 wt.% of the total weight of the product.

[0046] 15. Cosmetic use of a silicone-free hair care product according to any of the preceding statements to improve the care properties of hair, in particular to improve detangling, wet and dry combing, feel, hair volume and shine.

[0047] For the purposes of the present invention, a cosmetic carrier is understood to be an aqueous, an alcoholic, or an aqueous-alcoholic carrier. For hair care purposes, such carriers include, for example, creams, emulsions, gels, pastes, solutions, but also surfactant-containing foaming solutions such as shampoos, foam aerosols, foam formulations, or other preparations suitable for application to the hair.

[0048] According to the invention, an aqueous carrier is preferred and preferably comprises 50 - 95 wt.%, more preferably 60 - 95 wt.% and particularly preferably 70 - 95 wt.% water, based on the total hair care product.

[0049] The hair care products according to the invention contain at least one diesterquat of formula (II), wherein

[0050] - Ri, R2 are the same or different and represent a Ci-C4 alkyl group,

[0051] - R3, R4 are the same or different and represent the grouping -CH2-CH(R5)-ORe, in which

[0052] - R5 represents a Ci-Ce alkyl group,

[0053] - Re stands for an acyl group of at least a singly unsaturated carboxylic acid with a carbon chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms, and

[0054] - X- stands for a halide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate ion.

[0055] Preferred diesterquats according to the present invention are selected from compounds according to formula (II), wherein

[0056] - Ri, R2 are the same and represent a methyl group,

[0057] - R3, R4 are the same and represent the grouping -CH2-CH2-OR6, in which

[0058] - Re stands for the acyl group of oleic acid, and

[0059] - X- stands for a chloride or a methyl sulfate ion.

[0060] Particularly preferred are diesterquats according to formula (II), which are known as Dimethylbis[2-[(1-oxohexadecyl)oxy]ethyl]ammonium chloride salt) (INCI name: Dioleoylethyl Dimonium Chloride) and are commercially available, for example, under the name Microcare Quat® LDG from the company Thor.

[0061] Dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride is an environmentally friendly and biodegradable cationic surfactant derived from olive oil. In combination with plant oils, it particularly improves the combability and feel of wet and dry hair and protects hair fibers from heat and damage caused by blow-drying. The at least one diesterquat a) according to formula (II) is used in the hair care products according to the invention (based on the total weight of the products) preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 6.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 5.0 wt.%, and especially 0.5 to 4.5 wt.%.

[0062] In a particularly preferred embodiment, Dioleoylethyl Dimonium Chloride is used in the aforementioned amounts in the hair care products according to the invention.

[0063] The hair care products according to the invention contain at least one vegetable oil.

[0064] For the purposes of this invention, "vegetable oils" means plant-based oils that preferably have a melting point below 50°C, more preferably below 47°C, most preferably below 44°C, and most preferably below 40°C. Vegetable oils that are free-flowing at temperatures below 40°C are most preferred.

[0065] Plant oils (and / or butters and / or waxes) enhance the hair-conditioning properties of the specific diesterquats a) and impart additional conditioning power to the hair care products according to the invention. Thus, the addition of plant oil improves the shine and feel of the treated hair while simultaneously maintaining hair volume. A build-up effect does not occur, even after regular use.

[0066] Examples of suitable vegetable oils according to the invention are, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, canola oil, cranberry oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, mallow oil, almond oil, mango kernel oil, marula oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, peach kernel oil, rambutan oil, rapeseed oil, rice bran oil, castor oil, sacha inchi oil, safflower oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sasanqua oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tea tree oil, and grapeseed oil. Tsubaki oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, meadowfoam oil and / or rosehip oil.Preferred oils include amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, almond oil, macadamia nut oil, rosehip seed oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, peach kernel oil, jojoba oil and / or the plant butters shea butter and / or cocoa butter.

[0067] Apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, or mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. The invention also includes the possibility of mixing at least two natural, vegetable oils together.

[0068] The at least one vegetable oil b) is used in the hair care products according to the invention (based on the weight of the entire product) preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 3.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 3.0 wt.%, and especially 0.5 to 2.5 wt.%. To further enhance the conditioning properties of the products according to the invention, it may be advantageous if they contain further active ingredients and excipients that confer beneficial properties. In a further preferred embodiment, the hair care products according to the invention therefore contain at least one further conditioning active ingredient in a weight fraction of 0.1 to 10 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care product, selected from

[0069] (i) Triglycerides with a chain length of 6 to 14 carbon atoms,

[0070] (ii) Isopropyl esters with a chain length of 10 to 20 carbon atoms,

[0071] (iii) C2-Ce polyols,

[0072] (iv) Trimethylglycin

[0073] (v) or mixtures thereof.

[0074] To further support the conditioning effect of the active ingredients a) + b) of the hair care product according to the invention, it may also contain at least one compound (i) selected from the group consisting of medium-chain triglycerides with a chain length of 6 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0075] Preferred are medium-chain triglycerides derived from saturated fatty acids with 8 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular a mixture of caprylic / capric triglycerides. Suitable caprylic / capric triglycerides are available, for example, under the name Myritol® 318 from BASF SE.

[0076] Triglycerides with a chain length of 6 to 14 carbon atoms can be used in the hair care products according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, particularly preferably of 0.2 to 4.0 wt.% and especially of 0.25 to 3.0 wt.%.

[0077] Suitable isopropyl esters with a chain length of 10 to 20 carbon atoms (ii) preferably include isopropyl laurate, isopropyl myristate (for example, the commercial product Rilanit® IPM), isopropyl palmitate (for example, the commercial product Rilanit® IPP), isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. Isopropyl myristate is especially preferred.

[0079] Isopropyl esters with a chain length of 10 to 20 carbon atoms (ii) can be used in the hair care products according to the invention (based on the weight of the entire product) preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 4.0 wt.%, and especially 0.25 to 3.0 wt.%. Suitable C2-C6 polyols, as used in the present invention, are understood to be glycol, ethyl diglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, sorbitol, sorbitan, erythritol, or mixtures of these C2-C6 polyols. Preferred polyols are 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, or mixtures thereof. Glycerin is a particularly preferred polyol.

[0080] C2-Ce polyols support the conditioning effect of the active ingredient combination a) and b) in the hair care products according to the invention. At the same time, they can promote better solubilization of oils. This eliminates the need for additional (synthetic) solubilizing agents and / or consistency enhancers.

[0081] C2-Ce polyols can preferably be used in the hair care products according to the invention in a weight fraction of 0.1–10 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care products. Preferred amounts are 0.25–15 wt.%, more preferably 0.5–15 wt.%, and particularly 1–10 wt.%.

[0082] In a preferred embodiment, hair care products according to the invention contain glycerin in a weight fraction of 1 - 10 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care product.

[0083] Trimethylglycine is a well-known amino acid derivative used in cosmetics, derived from natural sources such as sugar beet molasses. It is marketed, for example, by Evonik under the name Tego® Natural Betaine and is used as a humectant in skin treatments and as a firming agent in hair care products.

[0084] It has been observed that the hair-conditioning properties of an active ingredient combination of specific diesterquats (a) and plant oils (b) can be further improved by adding trimethylglycine. In particular, the detangling and combability of dry hair, as well as the soft feel of the hair right down to the ends, can be improved by combining these active ingredients.

[0085] Trimethylglycine can be used in the hair care products according to the invention (based on the total weight of the products) preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 2.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 1.75 wt.%, most preferably from 0.25 to 1.5 wt.% and particularly from 0.3 to 1.25 wt.%.

[0086] In a preferred embodiment, the hair care products according to the invention contain at least two further hair-conditioning active ingredients from one or more groups (i) to (iv). Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the hair care products according to the invention contain at least two further conditioning active ingredients selected from those listed under the INCI names

[0087] (i) Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides,

[0088] (ii) Isopropyl Myristate,

[0089] (iii) Glycerines,

[0090] (iv) Trimethylglycine known compounds.

[0091] To further support or enhance the conditioning and / or protective effect of the hair care products according to the invention, it is advantageous if they also contain at least one amidoamine in a weight fraction of 0.1 - 3.0 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care products.

[0092] For the purposes of the present invention, suitable amidoamines are understood to be compounds of the following formula (I), wherein

[0093] Ri stands for a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alk(en)yl residue with 19 to 30 carbon atoms,

[0094] R2 and R3 independently represent hydrogen or a Ci-C4 alkyl group, and x represents an integer from 2 to 6.

[0095] Amidoamines of formula (I) give hair a distinctly soft, supple feel without weighing it down. It has been found that amidoamines, in particular those with an alk(en)yl group (Ri) comprising more than 19 carbon atoms, in combination with the active ingredient combination a) + b) according to the invention, also improve combability and are better suited than the amidoamines (alk(en)yl group with < 18 carbon atoms) commonly used in the prior art to prevent overconditioning (build-up).

[0096] Amidoamines according to formula (I) are therefore particularly suitable, wherein

[0097] - Ri stands for an alkenyl group with 20 to 24 carbon atoms,

[0098] - R2 and R3 represent methyl groups, and

[0099] - x represents the numbers 2, 3, or 4. Amidoamines according to formula (I), selected from amidoamines known under the INCI names brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and / or behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, are particularly preferred for use in the hair care products according to the invention. Behenamidopropyl dimethylamine is especially preferred.

[0100] Such amidoamines are commercially available from various suppliers and are particularly suitable for use in the hair care products according to the invention; for example, Kerabase® LC from Inolex Personal Care Ingredients, ProCondition® 22 from Inolex Personal Care Ingredients and / or Amidet® APA-22 from Kao Corporation.

[0101] Amidoamine(s) can be used in the hair care products according to the invention (based on the weight of the entire product) preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 2.0 wt.% and especially 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%.

[0102] The hair care products according to the invention may optionally contain at least one emulsifier for solubilizing the plant oils.

[0103] Suitable emulsifiers are preferably non-ionic emulsifiers and particularly preferably non-ionic polyethoxylated emulsifiers, especially ethoxylated fatty alcohols with 10 to 24 carbon atoms and / or ethoxylated castor oil.

[0104] Suitable ethoxylated fatty alcohols according to the invention are addition products of ethylene oxide to a fatty alcohol, wherein the degree of ethoxylation indicates the molar amount of ethylene oxide (EO) added on average per mole of fatty alcohol. Preferred ethoxylated fatty alcohols are ethylene oxide addition products to capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and brassidyl alcohol, as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, during the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis, and as monomer fractions during the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Addition products to technical fatty alcohols are particularly preferred.whose mixtures with 12 to 18 carbon atoms such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, in particular coconut and / or tallow fatty alcohol.

[0105] Depending on the manufacturing method, the ethoxylated fatty alcohols are obtained as a mixture with varying degrees of ethoxylation. For the purposes of the invention, these emulsifiers are therefore characterized according to their average degree of ethoxylation. This is usually indicated by a number following the fatty alcohol suffix "eth-" in the INCI name. Particularly suitable ethoxylated fatty alcohols are those with a degree of ethoxylation of 10 to 100, preferably 10 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol. Examples are Ceteaeth-12, Ceteth-15, Ceteareth-15, Laneth-16, Ceteth-16, Oleth-16, Steareth-16, Oleth-20, Ceteth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-23, Laureth-23, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-30, Ceteth-40, Laneth-40, Oeth-50, Ceteareth-50, Ceteareth-60 and / or Ceteareth-80.

[0106] Suitable ethoxylated castor oil preferably includes ethoxylated, hydrogenated, and unhydrogenated castor oil. The degree of ethoxylation indicates the average amount of ethylene oxide (EO) added per mole of castor oil. Preferred ethoxylated castor oils are the compounds known under INCI names: PEG-5 Castor Oil, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-35 Castor Oil, PEG-36 Castor Oil, PEG-40 Castor Oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-80 Castor Oil, PEG-80 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-100 Castor Oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-120 Castor Oil, PEG-120 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-150 Castor Oil, PEG-150 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-200 Castor Oil, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Castor Oil.

[0107] Castor oils with an average degree of ethoxylation of 20 to 150 are particularly preferred, more preferably 30 to 100 and more preferably 35 to 80. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is particularly preferred.

[0108] From an ecological point of view, it is advantageous if the hair care products according to the invention contain the emulsifier(s) - if at all - in small quantities.

[0109] In a preferred embodiment, the hair care products according to the invention therefore preferably contain a maximum of 1.0 wt.%, more preferably a maximum of 0.8 wt.%, particularly preferably a maximum of 0.6 wt.% and in particular a maximum of 0.5 wt.% of one or more non-ionic, ethoxylated emulsifiers (based on the total weight of the product).

[0110] To further optimize the rheological properties of the hair care products according to the invention, these additional active ingredients may contain fatty substances.

[0111] Suitable fats include fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, which can be in solid form as well as in liquid form as an aqueous dispersion.

[0112] Suitable fatty acids include linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 6–30 carbon atoms. Fatty acids with 10–22 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples include isostearic acid, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875, and isopalmitic acid, such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, as well as all other fatty acids marketed under the Edenor® (Cognis) brand. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, and erucic acid, as well as their technical mixtures.

[0113] Fatty acid cuts, which are usually available from coconut oil or palm oil, are particularly preferred; the use of stearic acid is generally especially preferred.

[0114] The amount of fatty acids used in the hair care products according to the invention is preferably 0.1–15% by weight, based on the total product. Particularly preferably, the amount of fatty acids used in the hair care products according to the invention is 0.5–10% by weight, with amounts of 1–5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

[0115] Suitable fatty alcohols include saturated, monounsaturated, or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with 6 to 30, preferably 10 to 22, and most preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms. Particularly suitable for the purposes of the invention are, for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucal alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol, as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list being exemplary and not limited.

[0116] In a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohols are obtained from natural fatty acids, typically by reduction of the fatty acid esters. Fatty alcohol fractions representing a mixture of different fatty alcohols can also be used according to the invention. Such substances are commercially available, for example, under the names Stenol®, e.g., Stenol® 1618, Lanette®, e.g., Lanette® O, or Lorol®, e.g., Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, e.g., Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16, or Isocarb® 24. Of course, wool wax alcohols, such as those commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®, can also be used according to the invention.

[0117] The amount of fatty alcohols used in the hair care products according to the invention is preferably 1–25% by weight, based on the total product. Particularly preferably, the amount of fatty alcohols used in the hair care products according to the invention is 1.5–20% by weight, with amounts of 2.0–15% by weight being especially advantageous.

[0118] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair care products according to the invention contain, for the purpose of optimizing their rheological properties, at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohol with 10 to 24 carbon atoms in an amount of 2.0 to 15% by weight (based on the weight of the entire product). Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the hair care products according to the invention contain cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and / or mixtures of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol in the aforementioned amounts.

[0119] In a further preferred embodiment, the hair care products according to the invention can additionally contain at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid in a preferred amount (based on the weight of the entire product) of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably of 0.15 to 4.0 wt.%, particularly preferably of 0.2 to 3.0 wt.% and especially of 0.25 to 2.0 wt.% to adjust the pH value, but also to support the hair care properties.

[0120] Suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids are preferably alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids and, in particular, naturally occurring alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids, for example in fruit acids.

[0121] Examples include malic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, isocitric acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, tartronic acid and / or tartaric acid.

[0122] Suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids also include the dicarboxylic acids glutamic acid and / or succinic acid.

[0123] Citric acid, lactic acid, glutamic acid and / or succinic acid are particularly preferred.

[0124] Particularly good stability and particularly good hair care results (especially with regard to hair shine and sensory properties such as softness and suppleness) without the occurrence of overconditioning (oily, weighed-down hair) can be achieved if the hair care products according to the invention do not contain any further lipid phase components in addition to the aforementioned active ingredients.

[0125] The hair care products according to the invention may contain further optional active ingredients, provided that these do not impair the efficacy or the manufacture of the products. Examples of optional active ingredients include:

[0126] Protein hydrolysates,

[0127] Vitamins,

[0128] Anti-dandruff agents,

[0129] carbohydrates,

[0130] Bioquinones,

[0131] Purines

[0132] Ectoin and / or

[0133] Plant extracts. Suitable protein hydrolysates are understood to be product mixtures that can be obtained by acid-, basic- or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins.

[0134] Protein hydrolysates of plant, animal and / or marine origin can be used.

[0135] Animal protein hydrolysates include, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, and milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be present in salt form. Such products are marketed under brand names such as Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex), and Kerasol® (Croda).

[0136] Protein hydrolysates of plant origin are preferred, e.g., soy, almond, rice, pea, potato, and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are available, for example, under the brand names Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), and Crotein® (Croda).

[0137] Cationized protein hydrolysates can also be used, whereby the underlying protein hydrolysate can originate from animals, for example from collagen, milk, or keratin; from plants, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy, or almonds; from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae; or from biotechnologically produced protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolysates underlying the cationic derivatives can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical hydrolysis, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis, and / or a combination of both hydrolysis methods. The hydrolysis of proteins generally yields a protein hydrolysate with a molecular weight distribution of approximately 100 Daltons to several thousand Daltons. Cationic protein hydrolysates whose underlying protein fraction has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 Daltons are preferred.preferably exhibits a hydrolysate hardness of 250 to 5000 Daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates include quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or the amino acids is frequently carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)-ammonium halides. The cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. Typical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives include the following products known under INCI names and available commercially: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk.Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen,Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.,

[0138] The weight fraction of the protein hydrolysate(s) in the total weight of the hair care products according to the invention can preferably be 0.01 to 5 wt.%, more preferably 0.025 to 3 wt.% and in particular 0.05 to 2 wt.%.

[0139] Suitable vitamins preferably include the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, as well as their derivatives:

[0140] • Vitamin A: The group of substances referred to as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). Beta-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Examples of vitamin A components include retinoic acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde, and vitamin A alcohol, as well as its esters such as vitamin A and acetate.

[0141] • Vitamin B: The vitamin B group or vitamin B complex includes, among others, vitamin B1 (thiamine), vitamin B2 (riboflavin), and vitamin B3. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often listed under this name. Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is the preferred form of this group. Usable derivatives of panthenol include, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone, and cationically derived panthenols. Examples include panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. Vitamin B1 (pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, and pyridoxal).

[0142] • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): the use of the palmitic acid ester, glucosides, or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

[0143] • Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol).

[0144] • Vitamin F: the term “Vitamin F” usually refers to essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

[0145] • Vitamin H: Vitamin H refers to the compound (3aS,4S, 6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazole-4-valeric acid, but the trivial name biotin has become more common.

[0146] Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H are particularly preferred. Nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol are especially preferred.

[0147] The weight fraction of the vitamin(s), vitamin derivative(s), and / or vitamin precursor(s) in the total weight of the hair care products is preferably 0.001 to 2 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 1 wt.%, and especially 0.01 to 0.5 wt.%.

[0148] Suitable anti-dandruff agents may be selected from piroctone olamines, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecenic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts, arnica extracts, and / or propanediol (di)caprylates. Climbazole, zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamines, and / or propanediol (di)caprylates are preferred.

[0149] The weight fraction of anti-dandruff agents in the total weight of the hair care products can preferably be 0.01 to 10 wt.%, more preferably 0.025 to 7.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5 wt.% and especially 0.075 to 3 wt.%.

[0150] Suitable carbohydrates can be selected from the group of monosaccharides and / or disaccharides and are preferably used in an amount of 0.01 to 5.00 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 4.50 wt.% and especially 0.10 to 2.50 wt.% (based on the total weight of the agent) in the hair care products according to the invention.

[0151] Preferred monosaccharides and / or disaccharides are:

[0152] - Monosaccharides such as D-ribose and / or D-xylose and / or L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or D-fructose and / or sorbose and / or L-fucose and / or L-rhamnose as well as

[0153] - Disaccharides such as sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiosis and / or isomaltose. In the compositions according to the invention, suitable bioquinones are understood to be one or more ubiquinone(s) and / or plastoquinone(s). The ubiquinones preferred according to the invention have the following formula: with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

[0154] Coenzyme Q-10 is the preferred form here.

[0155] Bioquinones, in particular Coenzyl Q-10, can preferably be used in the hair care products according to the invention (based on their total weight) in an amount of 0.001 to 1.0 wt.%.

[0156] Suitable purines and / or purine derivatives can be used in the hair care products according to the invention (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 2.5% by weight. Preferred cosmetic products according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine, or theophylline. Caffeine is most preferred.

[0157] Ectoin ((S)-2-Methyl-1 ,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid) can be used in the hair care products according to the invention (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.00001 to 1.0 wt.%.

[0158] By using plant extracts as conditioning agents, the hair care products according to the invention can be formulated to be particularly natural yet highly effective in their conditioning properties. If necessary, it may even be possible to dispense with otherwise commonly used preservatives. According to the invention, the extracts are primarily those of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossoms, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowsweet, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, restharrow, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and Ayurvedic plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi).Santalum album (Chandana), Crocus sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala), grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelt, maize, the various varieties of millet (for example, foxtail millet, finger millet, and foxtail millet), sugarcane, ryegrass, meadow foxtail, tall oatgrass, bentgrass, meadow fescue, purple moor grass, bamboo, cotton grass, fountain grasses, Andropogonodeae (Imperata cylindrica, also called flame grass or cogon grass), bison grass, cordgrasses, dog's-tooth grasses, lovegrasses, Cymbopogon (lemongrass), Oryceae (rice), Zizania (wild rice), beach grass, perennial oatgrass, sweetgrasses, quaking grasses, bluegrasses, couch grasses, and Echinacea, especially Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench, prefers all types of wine as well as the pericarp of Litchie chinensis.

[0159] The plant extracts can be used in both pure and diluted form. When used in diluted form, they typically contain approximately 2–80% by weight of active substance and the extraction solvent or mixture used in their production.

[0160] Furthermore, cosmetic hair care products may contain other active ingredients, excipients and additives, such as...

[0161] UV filter substances,

[0162] Structuralants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

[0163] Bulking agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin,

[0164] Dyes for coloring the agent, although this is not preferred according to the invention,

[0165] Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

[0166] Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate,

[0167] Pigments,

[0168] Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air,

[0169] Antioxidants,

[0170] Perfume oils, fragrances and odorants, whereby this is not preferred according to the invention if they are synthetic perfume oils, fragrances and odorants.

[0171] The hair care products according to the invention preferably have a pH value in the range of 2.5 to 5.0, more preferably from 3.0 to 4.5 and in particular from 3.5 to 4.5.

[0172] Preferred hair care products according to the invention have a viscosity in the range of 3,000 to 25,000 mPas, more preferably from 3,500 to 22,000 mPas and particularly from 4,000 to 20,000 mPas (measured with Brookfield RVDV II+; 20 rpm; spindle 6; 20°C).

[0173] A second object of the invention is the cosmetic use of the hair care product according to the invention to improve the care properties of hair, in particular to improve detangling, wet and dry combing, feel, as well as hair volume and shine.

[0174] Regarding preferred embodiments for use according to the invention, what has been said about the means according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis. The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without limiting it.

[0175] Examples:

[0176] The following hair care products according to the invention were manufactured (the quantities refer to wt.%) and evaluated:

[0177] * Microcare® Quat LDG (INCI: Dioleylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Glyceryl Oleate, Oleic Alcohol); AS Diesterquat approx. 25% (Thor) The hair care product according to the invention with the above formulation number 5 was compared in a home-use blind test with two hair care products which, instead of the diesterquat according to formula (II), contained a diesterquat with the INCI name Bis-(isostearoyl / Oleyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate. One of the two comparison formulations contained 0.8 wt% sunflower oil, the other comparison formulation no vegetable oil component.

[0178] The 20 test subjects were selected according to the following criteria: female

[0179] 18-65 years old, good health

[0180] All individuals with dermatological, physical, or medical conditions that could impair the study were excluded. Likewise, individuals with known hypersensitivities, allergies, or other problems with cosmetic products or their common ingredients, as well as individuals who regularly apply topical medications to the test area, were excluded.

[0181] Each test product was used for two weeks (at least two applications per week). The use of other skincare products was not permitted during this period.

[0182] The participants used the test products in a home use study and evaluated the products using a questionnaire. The following care properties were assessed: fragrance, wet combability, feel / texture of wet hair, dry combability, feel / texture of dry hair, consistency, static charge, shine, rinseability, and overall care.

[0183] The evaluation was carried out at defined intervals, both before and after application.

[0184] In particular, the product according to the invention was rated significantly better by a majority of the test subjects with regard to the parameters wet combability, feel / touch of the dry hair and rinsability.

Claims

Patent claims:

1. Silicone-free hair care product containing in a cosmetic carrier a) at least one diesterquat of the following formula (II) wherein Ri, R2 are the same or different and represent a Ci-C4 alkyl group, R3, R4 are the same or different and represent the grouping -CH2-CH(R5)-ORe, in which R5 stands for H or for a Ci-Ce alkyl group, Re stands for an acyl group of at least a singly unsaturated carboxylic acid with a carbon chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms, and X- represents a halide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, maleate, fumarate, citrate, lactate, oxalate, tartrate or acetate ion, and b) at least one vegetable oil.

2. Silicone-free hair care product according to claim 1, comprising as diesterquat a) at least one compound known under the INCI name Dioleylethyl Dimonium Chloride.

3. Silicone-free hair care product according to any of the preceding claims, comprising at least one diesterquat a) in a weight fraction of 0.1 - 6 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care product.

4. Silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding claims, comprising as vegetable oil b) at least one oil from the group consisting of amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, canola oil, cranberry oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, mallow oil, almond oil, mango kernel oil, marula oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, peach kernel oil, rambutan oil, rapeseed oil, rice bran oil, castor oil, sacha inchi oil, safflower oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sasanqua oil, Sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tea tree oil, grapeseed oil, tsubaki oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, meadowfoam oil and / or rosehip oil.

5. Silicone-free hair care product according to any of the preceding claims, containing as vegetable oil b) sunflower oil, apricot kernel oil, jojoba oil or mixtures thereof.

6. Silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one vegetable oil b) in a weight fraction of 0.05 - 3 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care product.

7. Silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising - based on its total weight - 0.1 - 10 wt.% of at least one conditioning active ingredient selected from the group of (i) Triglycerides with a carbon chain length of 6 to 14 carbon atoms, (ii) Isopropyl esters with a carbon chain length of 10 to 20 carbon atoms, (iii) C2-Ce polyols, (iv) Trimethylglycin (v) or mixtures thereof.

8. Silicone-free hair care product according to any of the preceding claims, comprising at least two conditioning active ingredients selected from among the INCI names (i) Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, (ii) Isopropyl Myristate, (iii) Glycerines, (iv) Trimethylglycine known compounds.

9. Silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding claims, containing at least one - optionally canonized - amidoamine in a weight fraction of 0.1 - 3.0 wt.% of the total weight of the hair care product.

10. Silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding claims, containing at least one amidoamine known under the INCI name Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine.

11. Silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding statements, containing at least one non-ionic emulsifier in a weight fraction of up to 3.0 wt.% of the total weight of the product.

12. Silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding claims, containing at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid in a weight fraction of 0.1 - 5.0 wt.% of the total weight of the product.

3. Cosmetic use of a silicone-free hair care product according to one of the preceding claims to improve the care properties of hair, in particular to improve detangling, wet and dry combing, feel, hair volume and shine.

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