LIQUID ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING SQUALANE, ACID DIMER DERIVATIVES, PASTY COMPOUNDS, A MINERAL THICKENER AND PROCESS FOR IMPLEMENTING IT
A liquid cosmetic composition using squalane, fatty acid dimers, and vegetable butters addresses the discomfort and environmental issues of traditional lip products, offering a stable, glossy, and comfortable lip application with natural ingredients.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024006973
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing makeup and skincare products for lips often suffer from a boundary between skincare and makeup effects, leading to discomfort and environmental concerns due to petroleum-derived and silicone ingredients, while hybrid products with good performance and natural ingredients are sought after.
A liquid cosmetic composition comprising squalane, fatty acid dimers, vegetable butters, and a mineral thickener, with a minimal water content, providing a stable, glossy, and comfortable lip application.
The composition offers a cushioning effect with good hydration and protection, eliminating stickiness and oily feelings, while promoting natural ingredients and reducing environmental impact.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: ANHYDROUS LIQUID COMPOSITION COMPRISING SQUALANE, ACID DIMER DERIVATIVES, PASTY COMPOUNDS, A MINERAL THICKENER AND METHOD FOR IMPLEMENTING IT
[0001] The present invention relates to liquid compositions for application to the lips, comprising squalane, a fatty acid dimer compound, a mineral thickener, and a cosmetic process in which such a composition is applied.
[0002] Until recently, makeup and skincare products belonged to two distinct categories. On the one hand, there were lip balms, often in solid form, one of whose roles is to form a protective barrier on the lips, notably to prevent or limit water loss. These products are usually rather oily, colorless, or slightly tinted. On the other hand, there were makeup compositions, with a multitude of formulations, ranging from liquid to solid, anhydrous, or in emulsion form. As for the effects observed after applying these compositions, here again, a wide range could be achieved, from sheer coverage to, conversely, very high coverage, with results ranging from glossy to matte. Increasingly technical products then appeared, offering long-lasting wear, no color transfer, ultra-matte properties, and so on.Generally, these results are achieved by using film-forming polymers such as silicone polymers, high-concentration volatile oils, fillers, and combinations thereof. However, the use of such ingredients and the achievement of these performance levels have been accompanied by drawbacks, such as reduced comfort, particularly due to the stickiness of the coating, and sensations of tightness or dryness of the lips, which further highlights the difference between these two types of compositions.
[0003] For some time now, this boundary between the fields of makeup and skincare has tended to disappear under the impetus of consumers who want to have hybrid products, providing both skincare and color effects with good performance.
[0004] For some years now, these consumers have also been paying closer attention to the ingredients used in formulations, and to their natural character, particularly their respect for the skin and the environment. This is why there is an increasing trend towards avoiding the use of raw materials such as those derived from petroleum processing or silicones, traditionally used until then, without however harming the performance of the compositions.
[0005] Thus, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that can address these environmental challenges.
[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.
[0007] The present invention falls within these new trends and relates more particularly to liquid compositions, especially for makeup and lip care, promoting the use of natural or naturally derived compounds, particularly plant-based ones. Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention advantageously limit, or even eliminate, the presence of liquid or solid ingredients derived from petroleum chemistry, or silicone ingredients.
[0008] These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to liquid cosmetic compositions comprising: * squalane; * at least one first compound chosen from polyesters obtained from at least one dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid; the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms; * at least one second compound, solid at room temperature, chosen from vegetable butters, polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C1O dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C2O; as well as mixtures thereof; * at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, different from the first compound(s); * at least one mineral thickener; * possibly water at a content not exceeding 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0009] It also relates to a makeup and / or care process, in which the previously defined composition is applied to human keratinous materials, in particular to the lips.
[0010] The present invention makes it possible to obtain a stable, liquid composition that is very easily applied to the lips, in a precise, homogeneous, glossy deposit. The resulting deposit also offers particularly remarkable comfort, providing a "cushioning" effect, with good hydration and a feeling of protection for the lips.
[0011] The deposit is slightly or not sticky, non-stringy, very shiny, very comfortable, without an oily feeling.
[0012] These and other advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples that follow.
[0013] Note that in the rest of the description, unless otherwise indicated, the bounds indicated for a domain are included in that domain.
[0014] The expressions "at least one" and "several" are used interchangeably.
[0015] In addition, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Protocol for measuring viscosity
[0016] Viscosity is measured according to the following protocol: The composition is kept at 25°C for 16 hours before the viscosity measurement. Viscosity measurement is carried out at 25°C, using a RHEOMAT RM 1180 viscometer equipped with a No. 4 spindle, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of spindle rotation within the composition, at a shear rate of 200 revolutions / min (rpm).
[0017] In particular, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention is between 2 and 14 Pa.s, preferably between 5 and 11 Pa.s. Gloss measurement protocol
[0018] The brightness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol: The sample is spread in the form of a 50.8pm film on a Byko Chart 2A® or Penopac IA® type contrast card from BYK using an automatic film spreader of the Byko-Drive XL® type from BYK equipped with a film spreading bar such as a variable slit height square 5353® from BYK, set for a slit height of 50.8pm.
[0019] The contrast card is placed on the applicator platform, and the bar with the 50.8 µm slot on the contrast card is positioned over the area to be filled in. Approximately 2 g of product is deposited directly in front of the bar. The automatic applicator is started, and the bar is moved to ensure the deposition of a uniform film of the desired thickness.
[0020] The film is left to dry at 25°C for 15 minutes.
[0021] The gloss of the film applied to the black areas of the contrast card is measured with an angle of incidence of 60°; this is expressed in gloss units (Gloss Units).
[0022] The gloss unit is a measurement scale of a gloss meter (example: Rhopoint IQ-S® from Konica Minolta), established from a reference standard in highly polished black glass, with a defined refractive index and specular reflectance of 100 gloss units at a given angle, with the minimum point established at 0 for a perfectly matte surface.
[0023] The measurement can be repeated over time to evaluate the retention of the gloss.
[0024] The composition is considered brilliant within the meaning of the invention, when the gloss value is at least 60, and preferably at least 70. Tights measurement protocol#:
[0025] Materials used: - TA-XT plus texture analyzer, Texas Instruments - Supplale white strip 150mm x 25mm (Soudotique, reference: DFSUP15025B) - White Supplale round 38mm diameter (Soudotique, reference: DESUPDIAM38B)
[0026] Sample preparation: - Mark out the length of the deposit (10cm) on a strip of Supplale - Weigh the Supplale strip - Remove the gloss applicator without wiping the excess on the edges of the container and apply the composition over the determined length, always in the same direction (i.e.: when you reach the end of the area to be made up, lift the applicator and reposition it at the beginning of the area) in as many passes as necessary, without turning the applicator over, so as to have a homogeneous distribution of the composition (= application 1). - Turn the Supplale strip over (the beginning of the area to be made up becomes the opposite end, and vice versa), take a new amount of the product in the same way as in the previous step and apply it in the same way as in the previous step (= application 2) - Turn the Supplale strip over to put it back in the position of step 1 and repeat steps 1 and 2 (= 4 applications in total). - Weigh the Supplale strip with the 4 applications of the deposit. - Leave to dry for 1 hour on a hot plate at 32°C. - Weigh the strip after drying.
[0027] Measurement: - Attach the made-up strip to the texturer plate (double-sided tape). - Attach a white supplementary circle in the measuring device. - Perform 2 measurements at the center of the sample, at two different locations.
[0028] The compression test parameters with hold times are given below:
[0029] [Tables 1] Approach velocity (or pre-velocity) 1 mm / s Velocity (from contact detection) 0.5 mm / s Force 800g Contact time 5 seconds Retraction velocity (or post-velocity) 40 mm / s
[0030] The sticky corresponds to the area under the curve, given in g / s. SQUALANE
[0031] The composition according to the invention comprises an oil which is a squalane, preferably of vegetable origin.
[0032] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a lipophilic compound that is liquid at room temperature.
[0033] Squalane is a nonpolar hydrocarbon oil, that is to say comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, branched.
[0034] This oil corresponds more specifically to the following formula:
[0035] [Chem.l] ch5 n .........j CH3 CH3 CHï CH3 CH^ (I)
[0036] Squalane obtained from plants is preferred, such as olives in general, or more recently sugar cane.
[0037] Squalane is marketed for example by the company Biosynthis under the name Squalive, by the company EFP Biotek under the name Olive Squalane, by the company Amyris under the name Neossance Squalane.
[0038] Advantageously, the squalane content represents from 5 to 40% by weight, more particularly from 8 to 30% by weight, in particular from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition FIRST POLYESTER COMPOUND
[0039] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a first compound selected from polyesters obtained at least from a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0040] Advantageously, the content of first compound(s) represents from 5 to 30% by weight, more particularly from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 7 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0041] More particularly, said first polyester compounds are esters of dimerdilinoleic acid and polyol(s) or one of its esters. The term "one of its esters" means one of the derivatives of these dimerdilinoleic acid and polyol(s) esters obtained either by reaction of alcohol function(s) of the polyol, not involved in ester-type bonds with carboxylic acid functions of dilinoleic acid, with one or more carboxylic functions of acid molecules other than dilinoleic acid or by reaction of carboxylic acid function(s) of the dilinoleic dimer, not involved in ester-type bonds, with alcohol functions of the polyol, with alcohol functions of alcohol molecules distinct from the polyol. Dimerdilinolenic acid
[0042] Dimerdilinoleic acid can be obtained by polymerization reaction, in particular intermolecular dimerization of a linoleic acid.
[0043] The stability of the compound with respect to oxidation can be improved by hydrogenation of the remaining carbon-carbon double bonds after the dimerization reaction.
[0044] Dimerdilinoleic acid can also be obtained by dimerization of the hydrogenated form of linoleic acid.
[0045] The hydrogenated form of the acid or diacid can be partial or total, and for example correspond to the saturated form, which is more stable to oxidation.
[0046] As previously stated, the carboxylic functions of the dimerdilinoleic acid residue not involved in the ester bond with the polyol residue(s) can be involved in other ester bonds with other alcohol functions of alcohol molecules distinct from the polyol(s).
[0047] These alcohol molecules or residues may be monoalcohols or polyols. Monoalcohols
[0048] As an example of an alcohol residue suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made of hydrocarbon compounds comprising a hydroxyl function and comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 28 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0049] By way of example of monoalcohol suitable for the invention, one may mention, in a non-limiting manner, butanol, pentanol, propanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol, dodecanol, hexadecanol, octadecanol, eicosadecanol, phytosterol, isostearol, stearol, cetol, behenol, etc. Polyols
[0050] The term "polyol" is meant to cover any hydrocarbon compound comprising at least two hydroxyl functions and comprising from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 28 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0051] The hydrocarbon chains can, where appropriate, be interrupted by the presence of at least one heteroatom, and in particular an oxygen atom.
[0052] A polyol or a polyol ester suitable for implementing the present invention may comprise, for example, from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, in particular from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, and more particularly from 4 to 6 hydroxyl functions.
[0053] Where appropriate, the hydroxyl functions, other than those already involved in an ester bond with dimerdilinoleic acid, may also be involved, in whole or in part, in other ester bonds after reaction with acid molecules other than dimerdilinoleic acid.
[0054] The polyol or one of its esters suitable for implementing the present invention may, in particular, be chosen from linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols.
[0055] Thus, the polyol can be chosen for example from a diol, a triol, a tetraol, or a pentaol, or one of their esters.
[0056] The polyol may be a diol, or one of its esters, in particular selected from a fatty alcohol dimer, a C2-C4 mono- or polyalkylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, and pentaerythritol. It may also be a mono- or polyglycerol or one of its esters, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil (triglyceride of a hydroxylated acid).
[0057] By way of example of diol which may also be suitable for the implementation of the invention, we may mention, in a non-exhaustive manner, butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, un-decanediol, dodecanediol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octadecenediol, cyclohexanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, ethylene glycol, xylene glycol and their isomers.
[0058] A fatty alcohol dimer can also be the hydrogenation product, for example catalytic, of a fatty acid dimer, itself obtained by dimerization of an acid unsaturated fats, especially C8 to C34, especially Ci2 to C22, particularly Ci6 to C20, and more particularly Ci8.
[0059] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty alcohol dimer can be a diol dimer derived from the hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid. It is generally in a saturated form.
[0060] Preferably, the polyol is a fatty alcohol dimer such as, for example, dilinoleol dimer (Dimer Dilinoleyl Alcohol: INCI name).
[0061] As an example of a diol suitable for implementing the invention, diglycerol may be cited in particular. This compound is a glycerol dimer resulting from the condensation of two glycerol molecules with the loss of one water molecule. The term "diglycerol" refers to all isomers that may result from such condensation, such as linear isomers, branched isomers, and, where applicable, cyclic isomers resulting from the intramolecular dehydration of a diglycerol molecule. Diglycerol can be obtained by any process known to those skilled in the art, and in particular those described in patent EP 0 750 848.
[0062] As an example of acid molecules capable of interacting with one or more hydroxyl functions of the polyol, not involved in the ester bond with dimerdilinoleic acid, we can mention, in a non-limiting manner, molecules derived from isostearic acid, behenic acid, phytosteric acid, stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, or cetyl acid.
[0063] A polyester suitable for implementing the present invention can be obtained by reacting a polyol or one of its esters with dimerdilinoleic acid, according to a molar ratio of about 1.0: 0.2-1.0.
[0064] A polyester suitable for implementing the present invention can, in particular, be obtained by reacting a dimerdilinoleic acid with a dilinoleol, and where appropriate, at least one additional monoalcohol, in particular selected from behenol, isostearol, sterol, in particular phytosterol, stearol, ketol and mixtures thereof.
[0065] Thus, a polyester implemented within the framework of the present invention can be used in the form of a mixture of different esters, for example.
[0066] A polyester suitable for the invention can also be obtained by reaction of a diglycerol, an isostearic acid and a dimerdilinoleic acid, in particular, according to a molar ratio of 1.0:0.2-1.0:0.5-0.9.
[0067] A polyester suitable for the invention can likewise be obtained by reacting an ester compound resulting from the reaction of a polyglycerol with a degree of polymerization ranging from 2 to 4 with 12-hydroxystearic acid using a hydrogenated dimer acid. For example, the polyester can be obtained by reacting diglycerol, of 12-hydroxystearic acid and dimer dilinoleic acid in a molar ratio of 1:1-3:0.3-0.8.
[0068] According to another embodiment, the polyester is a copolymer resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester. The molar ratio between the polycarboxylic acid and the hydroxylated ester used to prepare the polyester according to the invention is preferably between 0.25 and 1. In particular, the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid in a 2:1 ratio may be cited.
[0069] The polyesters just mentioned are described in particular in applications FR2795309, JP2003-226609, JP2004-256515, JP2005-179377, JP2007284371 and JP2011-020933.
[0070] Among suitable polyesters, we can mention the following INCI names: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, marketed for example under the trade names Lusplan® DD-DA5 and DD-DA7.
[0071] We can also mention the polyesters with the following INCI names: Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, marketed for example under the name Hailucent® ISDA, by the company Nippon Fine Chemical.
[0072] We can also mention the compounds with INCI names: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer, marketed in particular under the names Viscoplast® 14436H, Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer, Viscoplast® Green 3000, marketed by the company Biosynthis.
[0073] Also suitable are the following polyesters with INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof. These polyesters are notably marketed by Nippon Fine Chemicals under the names Plandool® G, Plandool® H, and Plandool® S.
[0074] We can also mention the polyesters with INCI names Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Diglycerin / Dilinoleic Acid / Hydroxystearic Acid Copolymer, marketed respectively under the names Risocast® DA-H or DA-L, Risocast® HSDA by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co.
[0075] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the first compound is chosen from among the solid polyesters at 20°C.
[0076] More specifically, these compounds are chosen from among the pasty compounds.
[0077] By "pasty compound", in the context of the present invention, means a compound A lipophilic fat, at a temperature of 20-25°C, comprises a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a paste-like compound may exhibit a melting point starting temperature below 20-25°C. The paste-like compound is also a compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change.
[0078] The melting point (or melting temperature) of the pasty fat compound can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.
[0079] The protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of the solid compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of said solid fat is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fat at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat in a solid state is the enthalpy consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. A fat in a solid state is said to be in a solid state when its entire mass is in solid form, particularly crystalline form. A fat in a liquid state is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat-based substance is the amount of energy required to change the fat-based substance from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the fat-based substance is equal to the energy generated under the curve of the resulting thermogram.
[0080] According to this embodiment, the first compound is more particularly chosen from the following INCI-named polyesters: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Diglycerin / Dilinoleic Acid / Hydroxystearic Acid Copolymer, and mixtures thereof, preferably, the first compound is chosen at least from Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isosteryl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimerdilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
[0081] According to this embodiment, the content of the first solid compound(s) represents 5 to 10% by weight, more particularly 5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0082] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the first compound is chosen from liquid polyesters at 20°C.
[0083] According to this embodiment, the first compound is chosen from the following INCI name polyesters: Dimerdilinoleyl Dimerdilinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer and their mixtures, preferably, the first compound is at least chosen from Dimerdilinoleyl Dimerdilinoleate.
[0084] According to this embodiment, the content of the first liquid compound(s) represents from 5 to 25% by weight, more particularly from 7 to 20% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0085] Preferably, the weight ratio of squalane / first compound(s) varies between 1 and 3, more particularly between 1 and 2, preferably excluding the limit 1. SECOND COMPOUND SOLID HYDROCARBON
[0086] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one second hydrocarbon compound that is solid at room temperature and different from the first compounds mentioned above. These compounds are selected from vegetable butters or butters derived from vegetable oils, polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C1O dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C2O; as well as mixtures thereof.
[0087] According to a first embodiment, the second solid hydrocarbon compound is chosen from among vegetable butters, such as mango butter (INCI name: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter), such as that marketed under the reference Trivent Mango Butter by Alzo, shea butter (INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), such as that marketed under the references Lipex® 102, Lipex® Shea, by Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (INCI name: Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), for example marketed under the name Rain Forest 03410 by Beraca Sabara, murumuru butter (INCI name: Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter), notably marketed under the reference RAIN FOREST® 03710 by Beraca Sabara, cocoa butter (INCI name: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter), for example marketed under the reference PPP Cocoa Butter Deodorized by the Dutch Cocoa company,Jojoba butter (INCI name: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter), notably marketed by the company Desert Whale under the name Iso Jojoba 50, as well as their blends.
[0088] Among suitable solid hydrocarbon compounds, butters derived from vegetable oils can also be mentioned, such as the compounds with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated Vegetable oil, marketed in particular under the name Akogel ® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, under the name Cegesoft® HF 52 by the company BASF, Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides notably marketed under the name Softisan® 100 by the company IOI Oleo, partially hydrogenated olive oil for example marketed under the reference Beurrolive® by the company Soliance (INCI name: Hydrogenated Olive Oil), their mixtures.
[0089] According to a second variant, suitable are also esters from the condensation of a linear or branched dicarboxylic acid, preferably saturated, in C6-C10 and of an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, in C6-C20, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of fatty acids in C6-C20 such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, the compound with INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, for example marketed under the reference SOFTISAN® 649 by the company IOI Oleo.
[0090] Preferably, the second compound(s) are selected from vegetable butters, compounds with the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, and mixtures thereof. More specifically, the second compound comprises at least Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2.
[0091] Advantageously, the content of the second compound(s) represents from 5 to 30% by weight, more particularly from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0092] Preferably, the weight ratio of second compound(s) / first compound(s) varies between 0.5 and 4, more particularly between 0.8 and 3.5, preferably between 0.9 and 3.2. POLAR NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBONATE OIL
[0093] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile, polar hydrocarbon oil, different from the first compound or compounds.
[0094] By "non-volatile oil" is meant fatty compounds, insoluble in water, liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), whose vapor pressure at 20°C is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than or equal to 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD 104 standard).
[0095] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also comprising at least one oxygen atom, and possibly nitrogen. This oil does not contain any atom of Silicon, therefore, is distinct from silicone oils. It can contain one or more alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, carbonate, amine and / or amide groups.
[0096] The non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil may be more particularly selected from C10-C26 alcohols; ester oils, comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12; ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, whether identical or not, the R, R' groups represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably C3-C16; and mixtures thereof. C10-C26 Alcohols
[0097] Alcohols are more particularly alcohols comprising a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, comprising 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably comprising 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monohydroxylated.
[0098] Preferably, the said alcohol(s) are chosen from lauric alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and preferably octyldodecanol. Ester oils
[0099] A polar hydrocarbon ester oil in the sense of the invention, comprises, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one ester function (-C(=O)-O-).
[0100] Particularly suitable are non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12, as well as mixtures thereof. In addition, the ester oil may optionally comprise one or more hydroxyl groups.
[0101] More specifically, the ester oil is selected from: - vegetable oils; - ester oils, different from vegetable oils, possibly hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising at least one hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated or aromatic, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms; polyesters resulting from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid; - as well as their mixtures.
[0102] Among suitable ester oils, one can thus cite vegetable oils; ester oils other than vegetable oils, chosen from mono- and di- esters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, comprising at least 12 carbon atoms and advantageously from 12 to 80 carbon atoms; triesters, obtained from mono- or polycarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, in C2-C40, and from polyols or monoalcohols, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated in C2-C40; tetraesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, comprising from 35 to 80 carbon atoms; polyesters obtained from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid; and mixtures thereof.
[0103] Examples of vegetable oils include castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, flaxseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, marula oil, camelina oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, and pea germ oil. corn, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, hazelnut oil, lesquerella oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil,Meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0104] Preferably, the vegetable oil may be chosen from castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0105] Among the ester oils other than vegetable oils, chosen from mono- and di-esters, one may cite those obtained from monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28, preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, possibly comprising at least one free hydroxyl group, on the one hand, and from monoalcohols or polyols, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 2 to 26, in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12 carbon atoms, advantageously from 12 to 80 carbon atoms, preferably at least 16 carbon atoms, as well as mixtures thereof. Examples include octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, and myristate of 2-Octyldodecyl, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, glycerin stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, mixtures of esters of capric acid, caprylic acid and coconut alcohol (Ci2-Ci8 alcohols), octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate,isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof.
[0106] Also suitable are mono- and diesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, preferably comprising at least 12 carbon atoms. In particular, suitable for carrying out the invention are monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; and diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate.
[0107] Also cite mono- and di- esters of monocarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and of diols, in particular glycols, especially C2-C5, of glycerol or polyglycerol (preferably 2 to 3 moles of glycerol), preferably comprising at least 12 carbon atoms. Examples include propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0108] Among ester oils other than vegetable oils, suitable for the invention are triesters obtained from mono- or polycarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, in C2-C40, preferably in C4-C40 and from polyols or monoalcohols linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated in C2-C40, preferably in C3-C40; said polyesters optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl. Examples include triacetin, as well as triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in C4-C36, more particularly in C8-C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, in particular, saturated triglycerides such as Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, for example such as the products marketed under the DUB MCT range by the company Stéarinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, triglycerides of acid in Ci8 36 such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), glyceryl triisostearate. We can also mention glycerol or polyglycerol triesters (preferably 2 or 3 moles of glycerol) and monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate), glyceryl-2 tridecyl tetradecanoate. As an example, we can also mention triesters, of an acid comprising three carboxylic functions, in C2-C9, possibly hydroxylated, and of a monoalcohol in C2-C20. We can cite the esters of citric acid such as triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, as well as tridecyl trimellitate, and their mixtures.
[0109] Regarding tetraesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, comprising in particular 35 to 80 carbon atoms, examples include tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0110] Polyesters obtained by esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid, and at least one dicarboxylic acid, as described in particular in US patent 7317068, are also suitable. The polyol more particularly comprises 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, preferably pentaerythritol. More particularly, the monocarboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 6 to 22 carbon atoms, such as Preferably stearic, isostearic, caprylic, capric acids, or combinations thereof. As for the dicarboxylic acid, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, it typically comprises 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and adipic acid is preferred. Examples include the product with the INCI name Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate, marketed notably under the name Supermol® L by Croda, and the product with the INCI name Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate, marketed under the name Lexfeel® 700 EX-LO-MB by Inolex.
[0111] Preferably, the polar hydrocarbon oil(s) are selected from: - vegetable oils, in particular castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, argan oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa, as well as mixtures thereof; - the diesters, obtained from monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, possibly including at least one free hydroxyl group, on the one hand, and from monoalcohol or polyol, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 2 to 26 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12; such as for example diisostearyl malate; - triesters, different from vegetable oils, possibly hydroxylated, obtained from mono- or polycarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, in C2-C40, and from polyols or monoalcohols, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in C2-C40, such as for example triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in C4-C36, more particularly in C8-C2o, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, notably Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (INCI name); triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol (preferably 2 or 3 moles of glycerol) and monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate: INCI name), tridecyl trimillitate; - linear or branched tetraesters, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, comprising in particular 35 to 80 carbon atoms, such as tetraesters of pentaerythrityl or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate; - their mixtures. Non-volatile oils, ethers, or carbonates
[0112] Among suitable non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably in C3-Ci6.
[0113] Preferably, the oil or oils may be chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.
[0114] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from ester oils, even more particularly selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils, different from the first compounds, comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12; as well as mixtures thereof.
[0115] According to a more particular method, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) are chosen from vegetable oils; ester oils, different from vegetable oils, possibly hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, of which at least one, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms; mixtures thereof.
[0116] Preferably, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil is selected from: - vegetable oils; - Ester oils, distinct from vegetable oils, chosen from: * Diesters obtained from monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, possibly including at least one free hydroxyl group, on the one hand, and from monoalcohols or polyols, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 2 to 26 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12; such as, for example, diisostearyl malate; * triesters, possibly hydroxylated, obtained from mono- or polycarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, in C2-C40, and from polyols or monoalcohols, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in C2-C40, such as triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in C4 -C36, more particularly in C8-C2o, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; - linear or branched tetraesters, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, comprising in particular 35 to 80 carbon atoms, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate; - their mixtures.
[0117] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) represents from 15 to 80% by weight, preferably from 25 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. OPTIONAL OILS
[0118] The composition according to the present invention may optionally include at least one optional oil, different from squalane, the first compounds and the aforementioned polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils.
[0119] The optional oil or oils may be more particularly chosen from among non-polar hydrocarbon oils, from among silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile, as well as their mixtures.
[0120] By "nonpolar hydrocarbon oil" is meant hydrocarbon compounds liquid at 20°C comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure.
[0121] By "siliconized oil" is meant an oil (liquid at 20°C) containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.
[0122] The term "volatile oil" refers to an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular up to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly up to 1300 Pa. Optional nonpolar hydrocarbon oils
[0123] These oils can be of various origins, mineral or synthetic, including those from the petrochemical industry.
[0124] Examples of non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils include paraffin oil; polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, for example from the Indopol range marketed by Ineos Oligomers; polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, for example marketed in the Parléam® range by Nippon Oil & Fat; polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, in particular from the Silkflo range marketed by Ineos; and mixtures thereof.
[0125] Among nonpolar volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to fewer than 14 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular: - branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, - linear alkanes, preferably for example such as the mixture of n-decane (C10) and n-dodecane (C12) sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight silk, the n-dodecane (C12) sold by Sasol respectively under the reference Parafol 12-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C10) and n-tridecane (C12) obtained in particular in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company, and their mixtures.
[0126] Advantageously, if the composition contains such optional oils, their content represents less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the composition does not include any nonpolar hydrocarbon oil from the petrochemical industry. Silicone optional oils
[0127] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises limited levels of volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, and even more preferably, is devoid of them.
[0128] Examples of volatile silicone oils include dimethicone with a viscosity of less than 5cSt (5 x 103 mm2 / s, measured in particular according to the ASTM D-445 standard), octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0129] As regards non-volatile silicone oils, the latter may be non-phenylated, or phenylated comprising or not at least one dimethicone fragment.
[0130] The term “phenylated” specifies that said oil includes in its structure at least one phenyl radical.
[0131] The term "dimethicone fragment" refers to a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom bears two methyl groups, this group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.
[0132] Preferably, silicones do not contain a C2-C3 alkylene oxide group, nor a glycerol group.
[0133] Among the non-volatile non-phenylated silicones, we can mention polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: DIMETHICONE), alkyldimethicones comprising at least one alkyl group in C2-C24, as well as their mixtures.
[0134] Among the non-volatile phenyl silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, the following INCI name compounds may be cited: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and their mixtures.
[0135] With regard to phenylated silicone non-volatile oils, devoid of dimethicone fragment(s), the following INCI names may be cited: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, alone or in mixtures.
[0136] More particularly, if the composition includes it, the content of silicone oil(s) is less than or equal to 2% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, and preferably the composition is devoid of it. MINERAL THICKENER
[0137] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one mineral thickening agent, chosen more particularly from silicas, treated hydrophobically or not; lipophilic clays; alone or in mixtures, and preferably silica, treated hydrophobically or not. It should be noted that the mineral thickener is distinct from the fillers which will be described later. Silicas
[0138] The composition according to the invention may thus include, as a mineral thickening agent, a fumed silica, preferably hydrophobic, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic. a) Pyrogenated silica
[0139] Suitable for the invention is hydrophobically treated fumed silica. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of silica by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. In particular, silanol groups can be replaced by hydrophobic groups, resulting in hydrophobic silica.
[0140] Hydrophobic groups can be: - Trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica Silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica Dimethyl Silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot. b) Silica aerogels
[0141] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
[0142] They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.
[0143] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) of 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) of 1 to 1500 pm, better 1 to 1000 pm, preferably 1 to 1000 pm, in particular 1 to 30 pm, preferably still 5 to 25 pm, better 5 to 20 pm and better still 5 to 15 pm.
[0144] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume average diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.
[0145] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) method, described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", Vol. 60, Page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered.
[0146] The particle sizes of silica aerogel can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0147] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.
[0148] Aerogels are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name Silica Silylate).
[0149] They can in particular be obtained by surface treatment with silylation agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
[0150] Regarding the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference can be made to US document 7,470,725.
[0151] Preferably, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will be used.
[0152] As examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, we can cite, for instance, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0153] We can also mention the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.
[0154] Preferably, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Lipophilic clays
[0155] The mineral thickening agent usable within the framework of the present invention may also be a lipophilic clay.
[0156] The term “lipophilic clay” means any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in an oily phase.
[0157] The term clay refers more particularly to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure.
[0158] Clays can be natural or synthetic. Examples of such products include clays of the smectite family, as well as those of the family of Vermiculites, stevensite, chlorites. These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.
[0159] Preferably, organophilic clays are used, more particularly modified clays such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
[0160] More specifically, clays are rendered lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt, such as an ammonium halide, for example, a C22 ammonium chloride, with or without an aromatic group. In particular, examples include halides such as stearalkonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, or dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, for example, distearyl dimethyl ammonium.
[0161] Lipophilic clay can be in the form of a powder or in a form pre-dispersed in a solvent chosen for example from C1-C2 alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol; propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate, and mixtures thereof.
[0162] The lipophilic clay suitable for implementing the invention can be chosen from among the modified hectorites with the following INCI names: Disteardimonium hectorite, Stearalkonium Hectorites, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, alone or in mixtures, preferably Disteardimonium hectorite.
[0163] The lipophilic bentonite suitable for implementing the invention can be chosen from the following INCI-named bentonites: Quaternium-18 bentonites, Stearalkonium Bentonites, Quatemium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite, alone or in mixtures.
[0164] Among the modified hectorites usable within the framework of the invention, we can mention: *among the Disteardimonium Hectorite: Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone Gel; *among the Stearalkonium Hectorite: the Bentone 27V; marketed by the company Elementis Specialties.
[0165] Among the modified bentonites usable within the scope of the invention, the following may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures: *among the quaternium-18 Bentonites: Bentone 34 marketed by Elementis Specialties; Claytone 40, Tixogel VP marketed by BYK Additives Inc; *among the Stearalkonium Bentonites, Tixogel VZ, Claytone AF, Claytone APA marketed by BYK Additives Inc; *among the Quaternium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite: Claytone HT marketed by BYK Additives Inc.
[0166] According to a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic clay comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group is selected from among the lipophilic hectorites, in particular Disteardimonium Hectorite.
[0167] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from silica, preferably hydrophobically treated, and even more preferably a hydrophobic silica of INCI name Silica Dimethyl Silylate.
[0168] More specifically, the content of lipophilic thickening agent represents from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0169] Preferably, if the composition includes, as a thickening agent, silica, preferably hydrophobically treated, and even more preferably a hydrophobic silica of INCI name Silica Dimethyl Silylate, then its content is advantageously between 2 and 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. WAXES
[0170] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one polar or non-polar hydrocarbon wax.
[0171] By "polar hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one oxygen atom, possibly nitrogen. These compounds therefore do not contain silicon atoms.
[0172] By "nonpolar hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0173] More particularly, in the context of the invention, it is recalled that a wax is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (20°C), in particular with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point in particular greater than or equal to 45°C and less than or equal to 120°C.
[0174] Protocol for measuring the melting temperature of a wax
[0175] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature (or melting point) corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999.
[0176] The melting point of a solid fat can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC 2000" by TA Instruments with the "TA Universal Analysis" software.
[0177] The measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to an initial temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the wax is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve.
[0178] More particularly, the polar hydrocarbon wax can be chosen from alcohol waxes, ester waxes, or mixtures thereof, and preferably at least from ester waxes.
[0179] According to the invention, "ester wax" means a hydrocarbon wax comprising at least one ester function (-OC(=O)-). Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.
[0180] By "alcohol wax" according to the invention, a hydrocarbon wax different from ester waxes, and comprising at least one hydroxyl function (-OH).
[0181] Among the hydrocarbon ester polar waxes that can be used within the scope of the present invention, the following may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures:
[0182] (i) Waxes of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent chains linear, branched or cyclic aliphatics with a number of atoms ranging from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose melting temperature ranges from 45 to 120°C, preferably from 45 to 100°C. In particular, an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate in C2O-C4O (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used as an ester wax, alone or in a mixture, or an alkyl stearate in C2O-C4O. Such waxes are notably sold under the names KESTER WAX® K 82 P, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, KESTER WAX® K 80 P, or KESTER WAX® K82H by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. Cetyl palmitate type waxes can also be used, as well as mixtures of Ci4-Ci8 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols such as Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from KOSTER KEUNEN, SP Crodamol MS MB AL, Crodamol MS PA from CRODA, Miraceti from LASERSON.
[0183] ii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3OCO-R4-COO-R5, wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group, and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group, which may or may not contain one or more unsaturates. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.
[0184] iii) Waxes of animal or vegetable origin. Examples of suitable waxes include beeswax, lanolin wax, sunflower wax, candelilla wax, camauba wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, and fiber wax. cork, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, refined or unrefined, and mixtures thereof.
[0185] iv) Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, or by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin (such as lauric, cetyl, stearyl, myristyl, behenyl alcohols) and vegetable oil, such as olive oil, castor oil. We can cite in particular the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having in particular fatty chains, linear or branched, in C8-C32, for example hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil. As examples of waxes resulting from the hydrogenation of esters obtained from vegetable-derived C6-C22 fatty alcohols and vegetable oil, we can also mention the following INCI-named waxes: Hydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Myristyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Cetyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Stearyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Behenyl Castor Esters. Such waxes are marketed under the names Phytowax® Olive 12 L44, Phytowax® Olive 14 L 48, Phytowax® Olive 16 L 55, Phytowax® Olive 18 L 57, Phytowax® Castor 16 L 64, Phytowax® Castor 18 L 69, and Phytowax® Castor 22 L 73 by the company Sophim. These waxes are described in application FR2792190.
[0186] (v) polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; preferably polyoxyethylated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylated camauba waxes, such as PEG-12 camauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, polyoxyethened or polyoxypropylened, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, esters from the reaction of vegetable waxes Acacia Decurrens Flower wax, Jojoba Esters, Sunflower Seed Wax and Polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof;
[0187] vi) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated Ci6-C3o carboxylic acid, possibly hydroxylated, with glycerol, such as glyceryl tristearate (INCI name: Tristearin), glyceryl trihydroxystearate (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin), glyceryl tribehenate (INCI name: Tribehenin), alone or in mixture.
[0188] Among the alcohol waxes, mention may be made of fatty alcohols, solid at 20°C, saturated or unsaturated, in C12-C24, preferably in C14-C20, preferably in C14-C18, for example alcohols selected from cetearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50 / 50), alcohol stearyl, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, C16-C22 alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0189] Among the nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes, we can mention in particular microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0190] Preferably, if the composition includes it, the wax is chosen from among polar hydrocarbon waxes, more especially ester waxes, even more particularly from among waxes of animal or vegetable origin; waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, or by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil; as well as mixtures thereof.
[0191] More specifically, the wax content, if the composition includes wax, is less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition is wax-free. COLORING MATERIALS
[0192] The composition according to the invention may include at least one coloring material.
[0193] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring matter can be chosen from powdered coloring materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. Powdered coloring materials
[0194] Powdered colouring materials may be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, mother-of-pearls and mixtures thereof.
[0195] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.
[0196] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
[0197] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, and ZrO2 in mixtures with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, and ZnS.
[0198] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 100 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.
[0199] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D
[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 100 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.
[0200] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, specifically the Malvern Master Sizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution across a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0201] D
[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.
[0202] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating.
[0203] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention by at least one compound selected from metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
[0204] According to a preferred mode, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid or one of its salts which may include an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.
[0205] The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[0206] The salts of these compounds may be the salts of aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium.
[0207] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative, which may be, in particular, a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more specifically a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red, and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei.
[0208] According to a preferred method, the pigments can be coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearyl titanate. Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWR0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by Kobo.
[0209] The pigments that can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.
[0210] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0211] The organic pigment(s) may be selected, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 1725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolic compounds as described in patent FR2 679 771.
[0212] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.
[0213] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0214] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0215] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. We can also mention the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0216] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).
[0217] The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, in particular, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0218] Preferably, if the composition includes at least one powdered colouring material, their content varies from 0.001 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring agents
[0219] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or fat-soluble colouring material and preferably at a rate of at least 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0220] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly depending on the intensity of the color effect sought and the colonic intensity provided by the coloring materials considered, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.
[0221] Additional colouring materials suitable for the invention may be liposoluble.
[0222] For the purposes of this invention, "liposoluble colouring material" means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fat and capable of colouring.
[0223] Suitable liposoluble colorants for the invention include, in particular, synthetic or natural liposoluble colorants such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.
[0224] Additional colouring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble.
[0225] For the purposes of this invention, "water-soluble colouring material" means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of colouring.
[0226] As examples of suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention, synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants may be cited, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.
[0227] The water-soluble or fat-soluble colouring material(s), if included in the composition, are preferably present at levels of less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. CHARGES
[0228] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, selected from mineral fillers, organic fillers, and mixtures thereof.
[0229] The term "filler" refers to a particle of organic or mineral nature, colorless or white, solid, of any shape, insoluble in the medium of the composition at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure. These fillers are advantageously dispersed in the composition. MINERAL CHARGES
[0230] The term “mineral filler” means any compound whose chemical structure does not include a carbon atom, regardless of the presence of a coating on said filler.
[0231] The fillers are in the form of particles and are distinct from the coloring materials described above.
[0232] The fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention may be particles of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous, or any other intermediate shape between these defined forms. The fillers may be spherical, that is, comprising at least one generally rounded portion, in particular defining at least one portion of a sphere, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, etc.), or lamellar.
[0233] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the charges more particularly have an average particle size (expressed as volume average diameter - D[0.5]) of at least 1 pm, preferably at least 2 pm, advantageously between 2 and 15 pm. The particle size can be measured by laser diffraction using a commercial particle size analyzer of the Mastersizer 3000 type, from Malvern (see also ISO 13320).
[0234] The fillers used in the composition according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular, they may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, especially one that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler within the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from silicones, in particular silanes; fluorinated derivatives; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group.The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The term alkyl(e) mentioned in the compounds cited above refers in particular to an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0235] Such charges are advantageously chosen from:
[0236] - Silica (INCI name: Silica), preferably in the form of Spherical particles, such as porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 by Myoshi; "Sunsphere H51" and "Sunsphere H33" by Asahi Glass; amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the names "SA Sunsphere H 33" and "SA Sunsphere H53" by Asahi Glass; and hollow silica microspheres. Preferably, the silica has not undergone hydrophobic treatment.
[0237] - Perlite such as that marketed by the company World Minerals under the Trade names Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550, Perlite P2040, or OpTiMat 1430 OR or 2550 OR. Europerl EMP-2 and Europerl 1 by the company Imerys.
[0238] - Zeolites such as the products marketed by the company Zeochem under the names ZeoFlair 300, Zeoflair 200, Zeoflair 100, X-MOL and X-MOL MT.
[0239] - Calcium magnesium carbonate particles such as those commercially available by Imerys under the name Calcidol, by LCW (Sensient) under the name Carbomat, and by Omya under the name Omyacare S 60-AV. Also suitable are calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite.
[0240] - Kaolin and talc particles, for example, marketed under the ranges Imercare, Imercare Pharma; Luzenac Pharma by the company Imerys; Rose Talc by the company Nippon Talc.
[0241] - Natural or synthetic mica, such as the product with the INCI name Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, and marketed under the names RonaFlair Silk Mica by Merck, Sericite PHN by Presperse, NHS-100 and NHS-150 by Myoshi Kasei, or under the names PDM-NSO or FNK-100 by Topy.
[0242] - Boron nitride; silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the series TSG® marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass; bismuth oxychloride;
[0243] - Glass or ceramic microcapsules; such as, for example, particles borosilicate.
[0244] - their mixtures.
[0245] Preferably, as a mineral filler, kaolin, mica, and possibly silica, as well as mixtures thereof, may be used.
[0246] In accordance with a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the mineral filler content represents less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. ORGANIC LOADS
[0247] By "organic charge" means, in the sense of the invention, solid particles of at least one hydrocarbon compound, regardless of their coating.
[0248] The fillers are in the form of particles and may also be surface treated or not, by means of compounds such as those described above in the context of mineral fillers.
[0249] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous, or any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers may be spherical, that is to say, comprising at least one generally rounded portion, in particular defining at least one portion of a sphere, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, etc.), or lamellar.
[0250] Suitable loads include:
[0251] - Micronized waxes, natural or synthetic.
[0252] - Metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.
[0253] - Natural organic materials such as polysaccharide powders, and in in particular starch powders, especially corn, wheat or rice starches, crosslinked or not, starch powders crosslinked by octenylsuccinate anhydride, marketed under the name Dry-Flo® by the company National Starch, waxy corn starch powders such as those marketed under the names C* GEL 04201 by the company Cargill, Corn Starch B by the company Roquette, and Organic Corn Starch by the company Draco Natural Products.
[0254] - Cellulose, particularly in the form of spherical particles, such as for example Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF products marketed by Daito Kasei Kogyo.
[0255] - N-acylated amino acids with C8-C22 carbon atoms, the amino acid can be For example, lysine, glutamic acid, alanine, preferably lysine. One example is lauroyl lysine, marketed notably under the names Amihope LL by Ajinomoto or Corum 5105 by Corum.
[0256] - Acrylic (co)polymer particles, and their derivatives, in particular: * of polymethyl methacrylate (INCI name Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer), sold under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Sensient, or of Polymethyl Methacrylate, under the names Sepimat P by the company SEPPIC, Microsphere M-100® by the company Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku; * of methyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate (INCI name Methyl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge Skin Oil Adsorber by the company Dow Corning; * Crosslinked acrylate (INCI name: Acrylates Crosspolymer) marketed, for example, under the name Ganzpearl GMP-0820 by Ganz Chemical, * Allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate sold under the names Poly-Pore L200, Poly-Pore E200 by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc., * of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer (INCI name: Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Polytrap 6603 Adsorber by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.; * of crosslinked acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name: Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Techpolymer ACP-8C by the company Sekisui Plastics, * ethylene-acrylate copolymer, such as that marketed under the name Flobeads® by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals.
[0257] - acrylonitrile (co)polymer particles, in particular hollow particles expanded polystyrene sold under the name Expancel by the company Akzo Nobel, or the microspheres marketed under the name Micropearl F 80 ED® by the company Matsumoto.
[0258] - Polyurethane particles, for example sold under the names D-400, D-800 (INCI name: HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer (and) Silica), CS-400 (INCI name: HDI / PPG / Polycaprolactone Crosspolymer (and) Silica), by the Toshiki company.
[0259] - Polyamide particles, such as Nylon®, in particular Nylon 12, Nylon 6 / 12; like the nylon powders sold under the names Orgasol 2002 EXS NAT COS, Orgasol 4000 EXD NAT COS Caresse, by the company Arkema.
[0260] - Tetrafluoroethylene polymer particles (Teflon®).
[0261] - Silicone fillers, in particular selected from: * silicone resin particles such as those with the INCI name Polymethylsilsesquioxane, notably marketed under the name Tospearl, in particular Tospearl 145 A, by the company Momentive Performance Materials, * silicone elastomer particles coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, such as the products marketed under the name KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105 (INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer), or KSP-300 (INCI name: Diphenyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer) by the company Shin Etsu; *silicone elastomer particles such as products marketed under the name Dowsil 9506 Cosmetic Powder, by the company Dow Corning (INCI name: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer); * Methylsilanol / Silicate Crosspolymer particles, for example in the form of bowls such as those marketed under the name TAK-110 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat.
[0262] Preferably, if the composition includes it, the organic charge can be chosen from cellulose particles, C8-C22 N-acylated amino acid particles such as lauroyl-lysine, as well as mixtures thereof, and even more preferably cellulose particles.
[0263] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the organic filler content represents less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0264] Preferably, the composition does not comprise acrylic (co)polymers and their derivatives, acrylonitrile (co)polymer, polyurethane, polyamide, tetrafluoroethylene polymers, or silicone fillers, or if it does contain them, their content does not exceed 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. WATER
[0265] The composition according to the invention may optionally include water. Preferably, the water content shall not exceed 5% by weight, and preferably not exceed 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more advantageously, the water content, if the composition includes any, shall not exceed 1% by weight, in particular not exceed 0.5% by weight, and even more particularly not exceed 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. OPTIONAL ADJUVANTS
[0266] Within the framework of the present invention, the composition may further contain at least one optional adjuvant chosen from those commonly used in the cosmetic field, in particular for makeup compositions and / or care of human keratinous materials, in particular skin and lips.
[0267] Examples include organic thickening agents such as dextrin esters; preservatives; antioxidants; complexing agents; solvents; active ingredients; perfumes; etc.
[0268] These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the desired property of the composition of the invention.
[0269] These optional adjuvants may be present at a content of up to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0270] The following examples will help to better understand the invention, but are not intended to be limiting.
[0271] Raw materials are named by their chemical name or INCI name.
[0272] The quantities indicated are as a percentage by weight of raw materials, except unless otherwise stated. EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1
[0273] The following composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and their contents are summarized in the table below:
[0274] [Tables2] Ingredients (INCI name, chemical name) Composition 1 Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 643, Cremer Oleo) 19.1 Diisostearyl Malate 10.3 Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate q.s. 100 Tridecyl Trimellitate 11.3 Antioxidant q.s. Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD-DA7; Nippon Fine Chem ical) 15.0 Pentylene Glycol / Caprylyl Glycol 1.5 Squalane (Neossance Squalane, Amyris) 20.0 Silica Dimethyl Silylate (Aerosil R 972; Evonik Degussa) 8.0 Preparation process
[0275] 1. All the ingredients except the silica are mixed together, under stirring at a temperature between 85 and 90°C;
[0276] 2. Once the mixture is homogenized, the silica is added while stirring. 3. After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, the composition is allowed to cool under stirring. 4. It is packaged in a gloss-type hot-bottle with a dip applicator. Composition evaluation
[0277] A stable, transparent composition is obtained.
[0278] It applies easily in a comfortable, precise, non-greasy, homogeneous, glossy, very low-stickiness, non-stringy deposit.
[0279] The application is comfortable, with a cushioning effect, providing a feeling of hydration. It leaves lips soft, without any tightness. EXAMPLE 2
[0280] The following composition has been prepared, the list of ingredients and their contents are summarized in the table below:
[0281] [Tables3] Phase Ingredients (INCI name, chemical name) Composition 2 A Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 649, Cremer Oleo) 23.3 A Diisostearyl Malate 12.6 A Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate qsp 100% A Tridecyl Trimellitate 13.8 A Antioxidant qs A Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinole ate (Plandool G; Nippon Fine Chemical) 7.0 A Caprylyl Glycol / Pentylene Glycol 1.5 A Squalane (Neossance Squalane, Amyris) 10.0 B Silica Dimethyl Silylate (Aerosil R 972; Evonik) 8.0 C Additives qs c Sodium Hyaluronate / Ceramide 5.0 D Perfume qs Preparation process
[0282] 1. All the ingredients of phase A are mixed together, with stirring at a temperature between 85 and 90°C;
[0283] 2. Once the mixture is homogenized, the silica is added while stirring. 3. After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, the ingredients of phase C and then D are added while stirring, and once the mixture is homogenized, the composition is allowed to cool while stirring. 4. The composition is packaged in a gloss-type hot water bottle, equipped with a plunging applicator. Composition evaluation
[0284] A stable, transparent composition is obtained.
[0285] It applies easily in a comfortable, precise, non-greasy, homogeneous, glossy, slightly sticky, non-stringy deposit.
[0286] The product is comfortable, with a "cushioned" effect, providing a feeling of hydration. It leaves lips soft, without any tightness. Example 3
[0287] The following composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and their contents are summarized in the table below:
[0288] [Tables4] Phase Ingredients (INCI name, chemical name) Composition 3 A Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 643, Cremer Oleo) 17.2 A Diisostearyl Malate 9.3 A Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate qsp 100 A Tridecyl Trimellitate 10.1 A Squalane (Neossance Squalane, Amyris) 20.0 A Antioxidant qs A Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD-DA7; Nippon fin e Chemical) 15.0 A Pentylene Glycol 3.0 B Silica Dimethyl Silylate (Aerosil R 972; Evonik Degussa) 8.0 C Red 7 1.2 c Iron oxide (CI77492) 0.8 D Sodium Hyaluronate / Ceramide 5.0 D Active ingredients qs Preparation process
[0289] 1. Pigment preparation: the pigments are mixed in a sufficient fraction pentaeryhtrityl tetraisostearate and the whole is passed through the tri-cylinder until a homogeneous paste is obtained. 2. The remaining portion of pentaeryhtrityl tetraisostearate is mixed with the other ingredients of phase A, under stirring at a temperature between 85 and 90°C. 3. Once the mixture is homogenized, the pigment preparation from step 1 is added, under agitation at the same temperature. 4. Once the mixture is homogenized, the silica is added under stirring, at the same temperature. 5. After homogenization, the active ingredients are added, and agitation is maintained until homogenization. 6. The resulting mixture is allowed to cool under stirring and the composition is packaged in a gloss-type hot water bottle, equipped with a dipping applicator. Composition evaluation
[0290] A stable composition is obtained. It applies easily, providing a comfortable, even, opaque, and glossy finish. The finish is comfortable, non-greasy, slightly sticky, and non-stringy, without any tightness or sensation. 4 COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES
[0291] The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of which are summarized in the table below: Composition A outside the invention: composition in which the squalane content is reported on the Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer dilinoleate content.
[0292] Composition B outside the invention: composition in which the squalane content is reported on the Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate content. Composition 4 according to the invention.
[0293] [Tables5] Ingredients (INCI name) Phase Composition A Composition B Composition 4 Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Sof tisan 643, Cremer Oleo) A 23.8 23.8 23.8 Diisostearyl Malate A 12.9 12.9 12.9 Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate A qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Tridecyl Trimellitate A 14.1 14.1 14.1 Caprylyl glycol / Pentylene glycol A 1.5 1.5 1.5 Antioxidant A qs qs qs Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD-DA7; Nippon fine Chem ical) A 17.0 7.0 7.0 Squalane (Neossance Squalane, Amyris) A - - 10.0 Silica Dimethyl Silylate (Aerosil R972; Evonik Degussa) B 8.0 8.0 8.0 Sodium Hyaluronate / Ceramide C 3.5 3.5 3.5 Actives C qs qs qs Perfume D qs qs qs Preparation process
[0294] 1. The ingredients of phase A are mixed under stirring at a temperature between 85 and 90°C.
[0295] 2. Once the mixture is homogenized, the silica is added while stirring. 3. After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, the active ingredients and the fragrance are added, then the composition is allowed to cool while stirring. 4. It is packaged in a gloss-type hot-bottle with a dip applicator. Composition evaluation
[0296] Table 6] EVALUATION Composition A Composition B Composition 1 Appearance of the composition 17.5 Pa.s 11.8 Pa.s 10.2 Pa.s Application Thick composition, difficult to pick up with the applicator. Picking and application of the composition are easy, resulting in a homogeneous deposit. Picking and application of the composition are easy, resulting in a homogeneous deposit. Deposition Much less comfortable because it is very sticky. Very slightly sticky but slightly stringy when blotted (*). Barely stickier than that of the composition nt and stringy at the extrusion point (*). Deposit slightly shinier than composition B. Perceptible evolution over time of the deposit thickness at the extrusion points (overthickness). B. Remains very comfortable and non-stringy. Deposit that remains homogeneous (thickness), slightly shinier than composition B. Gloss 82.6 79.2 82.7
[0297] (*) Blottage: the lips are pressed together and then slowly separated.
Claims
Demands
1. Liquid cosmetic composition comprising: * squalane, preferably of vegetable origin; * at least one first compound selected from polyesters obtained from at least one dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid; the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms; * at least one second compound, solid at room temperature, selected from vegetable butters, polyesters obtained from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and linear or branched C6-C20 monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated; and mixtures thereof; * at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, different from the first compound(s); * at least one mineral thickener; * optionally water at a content not exceeding 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the squalane content represents from 5 to 40% by weight, more particularly from 8 to 30% by weight, in particular from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of first compound(s) represents from 5 to 30% by weight, more particularly from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first compound is selected from the following INCI name polyesters: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Diglycerin / Dilinol eic Acid / Hydroxystearic Acid Copolymer, and mixtures thereof, preferably the first compound is selected at least from Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of first compound(s) represents 5 to 10% by weight, more particularly 5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first compound is selected from the following INCI name polyesters: Dimerdilinoleyl Dimerdilinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer and mixtures thereof, preferably the first compound is at least selected from Dimerdilinoleyl Dimerdilinoleate.
7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of first compound(s) represents from 5 to 25% by weight, more particularly from 7 to 20% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of squalane / first compound(s) varies between 1 and 3, more particularly between 1 and 2, preferably excluding the limit 1.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second compound is selected from vegetable butters, compounds with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated Vegetable oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, mixtures thereof; preferably the second compound is selected at least from Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of second compound(s) represents from 5 to 30% by weight, more particularly from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of second compound(s) / first compound(s) varies between 0.5 and 4, more particularly between 0.8 and 3.5, preferably between 0.9 and 3.
2.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mineral thickener is selected from clays, possibly modified, silicas, possibly modified, or mixtures thereof, preferably from silicas, preferably hydrophobic.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mineral thickener content represents from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises, as a thickening agent, silica, preferably a hydrophobic silica of INCI name Silica Dimethyl Silylate, in a content of between 2 and 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content, if the composition includes it, does not exceed 1% by weight, preferably does not exceed 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils, different from the first compounds, comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12; fatty alcohols of the form C3-C26, preferably monohydroxylated; ethers of the formula ROR', carbonates of the formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, whether identical or not, the R, R' groups represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably C3-C16; and mixtures thereof, preferably from vegetable oils;ester oils, different from vegetable oils, possibly hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising at least one hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated or aromatic, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms; polyesters obtained from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid; mixtures thereof.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil is selected from: - vegetable oils; - ester oils other than vegetable oils, chosen from: * diesters obtained from monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, possibly including at least one free hydroxyl group, on the one hand, and from monoalcohol or polyol, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 2 to 26 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12; such as for example diisostearyl malate; * triesters possibly hydroxylated, obtained from mono- or polycarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, in C2-C40, and from polyols or monoalcohols linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in C2-C40, such as triglycerides of fatty acids saturated or unsaturated, in C4-C36, more particularly in C8-C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; * linear or branched tetraesters, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, comprising in particular 35 to 80 carbon atoms, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate; - and mixtures thereof.;
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) represents from 15 to 80% by weight, preferably from 25 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition may comprise at least one colouring material selected from powdered colouring materials, such as mineral pigments, organic pigments, mother-of-pearl and mixtures thereof; fat-soluble dyes; water-soluble dyes; and mixtures thereof.
20. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not contain any nonpolar hydrocarbon volatile or non-volatile oil(s), in particular from the petrochemical industry, or if it does contain such oil, the content represents less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not contain any silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, or if it does contain it, at a content less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a composition with a viscosity, measured at 25°C, of between 2 and 14 Pa.s, preferably between 5 and 11 Pa.s.
23. A method for making up and / or caring for human keratinous materials, in particular the lips, consisting of applying the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.
Citation Information
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