Cosmetic composition comprising an organic acid ester, resveratrol, tocopherol and ascorbic acid
A combination of organic acid esters, resveratrol, tocopherol, and ascorbic acid stabilizes resveratrol and enhances collagen synthesis, addressing skin aging challenges with improved cosmetic and sensory properties.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2025/067390
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-06-28
- Filing Date
- 2025-06-20
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic and dermatological compositions struggle to effectively prevent and treat signs of skin aging while maintaining good cosmetic and sensory properties, and there is a challenge in stabilizing resveratrol under UV radiation.
A composition combining organic acid esters, resveratrol, tocopherol, and ascorbic acid enhances the photostabilization of resveratrol and improves collagen synthesis, providing effective anti-aging benefits with good cosmetic properties.
The composition effectively prevents and treats signs of aging by boosting collagen production and maintaining stability under UV exposure, while offering pleasant sensory properties and cosmetic benefits.
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Abstract
Description
Cosmetic composition comprising an organic acid ester, resveratrol, tocopherol and ascorbic acid
[0001] The invention relates to a composition, notably a cosmetic composition, comprising:(a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I);(b) resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates, or mixtures thereof;(c) tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or a mixture thereof;(d) ascorbic acid, optical isomers thereof, a salt thereof, a derivative thereof, or a mixture thereof.
[0002] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin materials, in particular facial and / or bodily skin, comprising the application of said composition to said keratin materials, notably under UV exposure.
[0003] The invention also relates to a process according to the preceding claim for cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment to prevent ageing of keratin materials, in particular under UV exposure.
[0004] Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for treating keratin materials, in particular for caring for the bodily and / or facial skin, in particular for protecting the skin using said composition, preferably cosmetic composition.
[0005] The invention relates to the use of such a composition for cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment for caring for the bodily and / or facial skin, in particular for protecting the skin, in particular under UV exposure.
[0006] These compositions are preferentially intended for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of keratin materials such as the skin, and notably for increasing collagen synthesis throughout the skin tissue.
[0007] Human skin is constituted of two tissues: a surface tissue, the epidermis, and a deep tissue, the dermis.
[0008] Natural human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of cells, namely keratinocytes, which form the vast majority, melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Each of these types of cells contributes, via its intrinsic functions, towards the essential role played in the body by the skin, notably the role of protecting the body against external attacking factors (the climate, ultraviolet rays, smoking, etc.), which is also known as the “barrier function”.
[0009] The dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support. It is also its nourishing element. It is constituted mainly of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix composed predominantly of collagens, elastin and a non-fibrillar matrix, known as ground substance. These components are synthesized by the fibroblasts. Leukocytes, mast cells and tissue macrophages are also found therein. Finally, blood vessels and nerve fibres pass through the dermis.
[0010] The cohesion between the epidermis and the dermis is provided by the dermal-epidermal junction. This is a complex region about 100 nm thick, which comprises the basal pole of the basal keratinocytes, the epidermal membrane and the sub-basal zone of the upper dermis (Bernard P., Structure de la jonction dermo-epidermique. Objectif peau. (Structure of the dermo-epidermal junction. Objective: skin), 2001, 68: 87-93). From a structural viewpoint, hemidesmosomes, in which keratin filaments are inserted (hemidesmosome-tonofilament complex), are distributed on the plasma membrane of the basal keratinocytes. Facing these hemidesmosome-tonofilament complexes are anchoring filaments which cross the epidermal basement membrane. The anchoring filaments are connected to laminin 5 on the epidermal side. Finally, anchoring fibrils constitute the sub-basal network. These are curvilinear structures which originate and terminate on the deep face of the basement membrane and in which collagen I, III and V fibres engage. It has been shown that these anchoring fibrils, which can be perfectly visualized by electron microscopy, are composed of type VII collagen (collagen VII hereinbelow). Collagen VII is synthesized by keratinocytes and fibroblasts, but to a greater extent by keratinocytes (Aumailley M, Rousselle P. Laminins of the dermoepdiermal junction, Matrix Biology, 1999, 18: 19-28; Nievers M, Schaapveld R, Sonnenberg A. Biology and function of hemidesmosomes, Matrix Biology, 1999, 18: 5-17.
[0011] Thus, collagens are the major proteins of the extracellular matrices. To date, 20 types of collagen have been identified, and are noted from I to XX. Different collagen families exist within these types, depending on the structures formed:- the family of fibrillary collagens (type I, II, II V / XI) which therefore form fibres;- the family of collagens forming the network of the 5 basement membranes which comprises collagen type VI and type XVII;- collagens forming hexagonal networks (type VIII and type X), pearl filaments (type VI), FACITs (type IX, XII, XIV, XVI, XIX, XX);- anchoring fibrils which correspond to type VII+IV;- multiplexins (type XV, XVII) and- collagen type XIII, the precise functions of which are not known to date.
[0012] In the skin, the collagens predominantly present throughout the dermis are type I and III collagens, which form the extracellular matrix of the entire dermis (these collagens constitute 70-80% of the dry weight of the dermis).
[0013] Moreover, collagens are not all synthesized by the same cell types: type I and III collagens are essentially produced by the dermal fibroblasts, whereas type VII collagen is produced by the epidermal keratinocytes. Finally, the regulation of their expression differs from one collagen to another: for example, collagens I and VII are not regulated in the same manner by certain cytokines. Specifically, TNF alpha and leukoregulin stimulate collagen VII and negatively regulate collagen I.
[0014] Finally, all collagen molecules are variants of a common precursor which is the α chain of pro-collagen.
[0015] With ageing, the collagen network becomes less dense, deteriorates and becomes disorganized, and wrinkles appear on the surface of the skin. Cutaneous ageing is a genetically programmed mechanism. Moreover, certain environmental factors such as pollution and especially exposure to sunlight accelerate it. The skin thus has a much older appearance on the areas exposed to sunlight, such as the back of the hands or the face. Thus, these other factors also have a negative impact on the natural collagen of the skin.
[0016] Consequently, in view of the decisive role of collagen, and notably type I collagen, in the cohesion between the epidermal and dermal tissues, and consequently in the integrity of the skin and its resistance to external attacking factors of mechanical type, stimulating the synthesis of these various forms of collagen appears to be an effective means for alleviating the signs of skin ageing.
[0017] The aim of the present invention is, precisely, to propose a new cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for limiting the signs of ageing of keratin materials, such as the skin, whether chronobiological or photo-induced, and notably ageing generated by a reduction in mechanical properties of the skin and / or by degradation of the collagen in the structure of cutaneous tissues.
[0018] However, it is very difficult to find a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition that is especially suitable for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of keratin materials such as the skin, by virtue of an improvement in quality of the skin such as its mechanical firmness or elasticity properties, while at the same time presenting good cosmetic and sensory properties, notably for example freshness and a glidant sensation on application or a pleasant (notably soft) skin finish.
[0019] In the light of the foregoing, it is thus apparent that there remains a consumer need for cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions that are suitable for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of keratin materials such as the skin, while at the same time having satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to their sensory properties on application, in particular advantageous properties in terms of sensory feel.
[0020] The present invention is precisely directed towards meeting these needs.
[0021] This type of problem has been described in particular in patent application WO2023110763 where it is demonstrated that the use of low contents of merocyanines of particular formula makes it possible to increase the biological effect of ascorbic acid on the production of pro-collagen by skin cells.
[0022] In the present invention, it has been found, surprisingly, that by combining (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I); (b) resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates, or mixtures thereof; (c) tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or a mixture thereof; (d) ascorbic acid, optical isomers thereof, a derivative thereof, or a mixture thereof, it is possible to substantially improve the action of ascorbic acid and / or a derivative thereof in a context of exposure to UVA rays by maximizing its effects on the various components of the matrix, such as various types of collagen, elastic fibres and proteoglycans, and also on epidermal differentiation to optimise the barrier function, and on the anti-pigmenting effect. In particular, it has been found that, by combining (a), (b), (c) and (d), it was possible to substantially improve the action of ascorbic acid and / or a derivative thereof in the context of exposure to UVA rays by virtue of the improved effect on pro-collagen production of this combination, while having a small amount of UV-screening agents, in particular less than or equal to 3%.
[0023] In addition, trans-resveratrol and derivatives thereof are of particular interest because they have good antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and can be used as anti-ageing active agent or depigmenting agent.
[0024] However, they possess physicochemical properties making them difficult to (photo)stabilize. This type of problem has been described in particular in patent application WO2014097260 which proposes solutions for photostabilization of trans-resveratrol by introducing UVA-UVB screening systems, and in particular in high amounts.
[0025] It is therefore difficult to obtain cosmetic compositions which remain physicochemically stable, and in which said resveratrol and / or a derivative thereof is (are) not degraded, in particular under the action of UV radiation.
[0026] Consequently, there remains the need to provide cosmetic compositions, comprising resveratrol or a derivative thereof which is photo(stable), which compositions have good sensory properties, such as feel after application or little change in odour and / or colour over time, and make it possible to give the skin benefits in terms of correcting the signs of ageing.
[0027] An aim of the present invention is also the development of cosmetic compositions in accordance with the preceding requirements, which have satisfactory stability, in particular stability evaluated after 24 h at 25°C and after two months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C.
[0028] Surprisingly, it has been found that a composition comprising (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I) and (c) tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or a mixture thereof makes it possible to increase ("boost") the photostabilization of resveratrol and derivatives thereof, with or without UV-screening agents.
[0029] As a result, a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, comprising:(a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I);(b) resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates, or mixtures thereof;(c) tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or a mixture thereof;(d) ascorbic acid, optical isomers thereof, a derivative thereof, or a mixture thereof makes it possible to prevent and / or treat the signs of ageing of a keratin material, such as the skin, effectively, in particular in the context of exposure to UVA rays, while exhibiting in particular good cosmeticity.
[0030] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of said keratin material, of at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.
[0031] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing, such as the signs of photo-ageing, of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.
[0032] The present invention also relates to the use of (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I); (b) resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates, or mixtures thereof; (c) tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or a mixture thereof, combined with (d) ascorbic acid and / or a derivative thereof, in order to reduce or treat the signs of ageing, notably the signs of photoageing the skin, in particular to improve the elasticity, firmness and evenness of the complexion, the microrelief and / or wrinkles and fine lines and / or to reduce the signs associated with the elastosis of keratin materials such as the skin.
[0033] The combination according to the invention is effective in combating the signs of skin ageing more effectively and / or stimulating skin regeneration / repair processes.
[0034] The combination according to the invention thus has a particular application in cosmetic compositions intended for preventing and / or cosmetically treating skin ageing, notably for preventing and / or treating, in particular topically, the cutaneous signs of ageing, and most particularly the cutaneous signs associated with wrinkled skin, skin showing a reduction in its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties, and / or skin showing a change in its surface appearance.
[0035] In fact, it has in particular been found, surprisingly, that organic acid esters of formula (I); resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvents thereof such as hydrates, or mixtures thereof, and tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or a mixture thereof, are capable of stimulating and also potentiating the action of ascorbic acid and / or a derivative thereof on the production of pro-collagen I by fibroblasts in a context of exposure to UVA.
[0036] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge on reading the detailed description that follows.
[0037] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” means here a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.
[0038] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” notably means the skin, the scalp, keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, head hair, bodily hair, the nails, and mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (of the body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids or lips, preferably of the body, face and lips).
[0039] According to the invention, the term “preventing” or “prevention” is intended to mean reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of ageing of a keratin material.
[0040] The use of a composition according to the invention comprising (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I); (b) resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates, or mixtures thereof; (c) tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or a mixture thereof, and (d) ascorbic acid and / or a derivative thereof, can make it possible more particularly to maintain and / or restore the biomechanical properties of the skin, and / or to prevent and / or treat the signs of ageing of the skin.
[0041] The term "biomechanical properties of the skin" is intended to mean herein the stretchability, tonicity, firmness, suppleness and / or elasticity properties of the skin.
[0042] The term “signs of ageing of the skin” notably means any modification of the outer appearance of the skin due to ageing, whether it is chronobiological and / or extrinsic ageing, in particular photoinduced or hormonal ageing; among these signs, it is possible to distinguish:- wrinkled skin, which results in particular in the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines;- skin exhibiting a deterioration of its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties, or skin exhibiting a lack of elasticity and / or extensibility and / or firmness and / or suppleness and / or tonicity, which results in particular in withered, soft, relaxed or collapsed skin;- skin exhibiting a deterioration of the cohesion of its tissues;- thinned skin;- skin exhibiting heterogeneities in particular linked to photoageing and- skin exhibiting a deterioration of its surface appearance, which results in particular in a deterioration of the grain of the skin, for example roughness.
[0043] The invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I); (b) resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates, or mixtures thereof; (c) tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or a mixture thereof with ascorbic acid and / or a derivative thereof according to the invention, as an agent to prevent and / or reduce the signs of ageing of the skin.
[0044] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, in particular for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, comprising:(a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I), or one of the geometric isomers thereof, organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, or solvates thereof, in particular hydrates:[Chem 1] in which formula (I):R1, R4and R5represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom;R2represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group, in particular a (C1-C4)alkoxy group, and preferably a methoxy;R3represents a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a hydroxyl group; andR6represents a group chosen from:i) (C1-C6)alkyl, in particular a (C1-C4)alkyl group, preferably methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl,ii) cycloalkyl, optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from (C1-C10)alkyl, (C2-C10)alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, andiii) glycosyl,(b) resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates, or mixtures thereof;(c) tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or a mixture thereof;(d) ascorbic acid, optical isomers thereof, a derivative thereof, or a mixture thereof.
[0045] According to preferred embodiment, the invention relates to a composition comprising:(a) at least one organic acid ester of formula (I), or one of the geometric isomers thereof, organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, or solvates thereof, in particular hydrates:[Chem. 1] in which formula (I):R1, R4and R5represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom;R2represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group, in particular a (C1-C4)alkoxy group, and preferably a methoxy;R3represents a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a hydroxyl group; andR6represents a group chosen from:i) (C1-C6)alkyl, in particular a (C1-C4)alkyl group, preferably methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl,ii) cycloalkyl polycyclic cycloalkyl group ii), preferably comprising between 2 and 5 fused rings, comprising from 12 to 32 carbon atoms and being optionally substituted; in particular, the cycloalkyl is a polycyclic group comprising between 4 and 5 fused rings, said rings being 3-, 5- or 6-membered and containing 16 to 20 carbon atoms, better still 17 or 18 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from (C1-C10)alkyl, (C2-C10)alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, andiii) glycosyl,(b) resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates, or mixtures thereof;(c) tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or a mixture thereof;(d) ascorbic acid, optical isomers thereof, a derivative thereof, salts thereof, or a mixture thereof.
[0046] According to another of its aspects, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process, in particular a non-therapeutic process, for caring for keratin materials, in particular of the body and / or of the face, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined above to said keratin materials.
[0047] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge on reading the detailed description that follows.
[0048] A composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.
[0049] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and thus generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin.
[0050] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium which exhibits a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort, that is to say stinging, tautness or redness, liable to dissuade the user from applying this composition.
[0051] In the cosmetic field of care, cosmetic compositions making it possible to obtain both good sensory properties and also a care effect are increasingly sought after by users.
[0052] It notably comprises a “cosmetically acceptable” medium, also known as a “physiologically acceptable” medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials, in particular the skin.
[0053] For the purposes of the present invention, “keratin materials” is intended to mean the skin and its integuments.
[0054] The term “skin” means human skin, notably of the face and / or body, or the scalp.
[0055] The term “integuments” means human keratin fibres, notably the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails and the hair, in particular the eyelashes and the hair.
[0056] The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that a composition in accordance with the present invention is applied to said keratin materials.
[0057] Moreover, another subject of the invention is the use of said composition in the field of cosmetics, in particular for caring for the skin of the body or of the face.
[0058] In that which will follow and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions “of between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0059] Moreover, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
[0060] The term “alkyl” is understood to mean a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon group of the linear or branched (Cx-Cy) type, comprising x carbon atoms and y carbon atoms, for example, a C1-C6alkyl implies a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alkyl group is a C1-C4group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, i-propyl, butyl, i-butyl, t-butyl. The term “alkenyl” is understood to mean a monovalent unsaturated hydrocarbon group of the linear or branched (Cx-Cy) type, comprising x carbon atoms and y carbon atoms, comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated unsaturations, preferably from 1 to 3 double bonds; for example a C2-C22alkenyl implies a linear or branched alkenyl group, comprising from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, and comprising one or more unsaturations, preferably from 1 to 3 double bonds.
[0061] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is immiscible in water at ordinary temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferentially less than 0.1%); in addition, the fatty substances are miscible in particular in all proportions in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance in halogenated solvents such as chloroform or dichloromethane, lower alcohols such as ethanol or aromatic solvents such as benzene or toluene.
[0062] The term “organic or mineral acid salt” more particularly means salts chosen from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH such as methanesulfonic acid and ethanesulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O)2OH, such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) succinic acid; vii) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-O-S(O)OH, such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; viii) aryloxysulfinic acids, such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; ix) phosphoric acid H3PO4; x) (poly)(hydroxy)(C1-C6)alkylcarboxylic acid, such as acetic acid CH3C(O)OH, citric acid, tartaric acid; lactic acid; xi) triflic acid CF3SO3H and xii) tetrafluoroboric acid HBF4; and also salts of “acidic” amino acids such as salts of glutamic acid, aspartic acid.
[0063] The term “organic or mineral base salts” means salts of bases or alkaline agents, such as alkali metal hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines, or else salts of “basic” amino acids such as lysine or arginine.(a) Organic acid esters of formula (I)
[0064] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I), or one of the geometric isomers thereof, organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, or solvates thereof, in particular hydrates:[Chem 2] in which formula (I):R1, R4and R5represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom;R2represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy;R3represents a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a hydroxyl group; andR6represents a group chosen from:i) (C1-C6)alkyl, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, in particular methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl,ii) cycloalkyl, preferably polycyclic group ii), said rings being 3-, 5- or 6-membered and containing 16 to 20 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from (C1-C10)alkyl, (C2-C10)alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, andiii) glycosyl.
[0065] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, R6represents a (C1-C6)alkyl group i), as defined above.
[0066] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, R6represents a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, non-aromatic monocyclic cycloalkyl group ii), comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms and is optionally substituted with one or more (C1-C4)alkyl groups and / or with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl.
[0067] In particular, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl and / or carboxyl groups. In particular, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl and is optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl. More particularly, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl and / or carboxyl groups.
[0068] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, R6represents a polycyclic cycloalkyl group ii), preferably comprising between 2 and 5 fused rings, comprising from 12 to 32 carbon atoms and being optionally substituted; in particular, the cycloalkyl is a polycyclic group comprising between 4 and 5 fused rings, said rings being 3-, 5- or 6-membered and containing 16 to 20 carbon atoms, better still 17 or 18 carbon atoms, said cycloalkyl being optionally substituted with one or more linear or branched (C1-C10)alkyl or linear or branched (C2-C10)alkenyl groups.
[0069] Preferably, the organic acid ester is of formula (I) in which:R1, R4and R5represent hydrogen atoms;R2represents a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a (C1-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy;R3represents a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group; andR6represents a group chosen from i) (C1-C6)alkyl, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl,and also the geometric isomers thereof, organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, and solvates thereof such as hydrates.
[0070] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the ester of formula (I) is of formula (I’) below:[Chem 3] in which formula (I’):R6is as defined above; andR7represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6)alkyl group.
[0071] According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester may more particularly be of formula (I’) in which R6represents a (C1-C6)alkyl and preferably (C1-C4)alkyl group, preferably an ethyl group; and R7is a (C1-C6)alkyl and preferably (C1-C4)alkyl group, preferably a methyl group.
[0072] According to this embodiment, ethyl ferulate is preferred.
[0073] According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester may more particularly be of formula (I’) in which R6represents a saturated monocyclic cycloalkyl group comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more groups, preferably between 1 and 4 groups, chosen from hydroxyl and / or carboxyl; and R7is a hydrogen atom.
[0074] According to this embodiment, chlorogenic acid is preferred.
[0075] According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester may more particularly be of formula (I’) in which R6represents a polycyclic group comprising between 3 and 5 saturated fused rings, comprising between 16 and 20 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one, preferably at least two, (C1-C4)alkyl groups, preferably ethyl, and with at least one, preferably one, branched (C8-C10)alkenyl or (C8-C10)alkyl group, and R7is a (C1-C6)alkyl and preferably (C1-C4)alkyl group, preferably a methyl group.
[0076] According to this embodiment, oryzanol, and in particular γ-oryzanol, is particularly preferred.
[0077] The compounds of formulae (I) and (I’) in accordance with the invention are preferably chosen from natural compounds or compounds of natural origin. They are preferably “green” compounds.
[0078] As particular examples of esters of formula (I) or (I’), mention may be made of methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, chlorogenic acid, isopropyl ferulate or ferulic acid esters of sterols, more preferably methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, chlorogenic acid, isopropyl ferulate or ferulic acid esters of sterols such as oryzanol, notably γ-oryzanol.
[0079] The compounds of formulae (I) and (I’) may be obtained via any method known to a person skilled in the art.
[0080] For example, the ferulic acid esters may be obtained by esterification of ferulic acid, which is itself obtained, for example, by biosynthesis via methoxylation of caffeic acid using the enzyme caffeic acid-O-methyl transferase, or by extraction from a plant extract, in particular wheat bran, for example using concentrated bases such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
[0081] γ-Oryzanol may be obtained by extraction using an organic solvent, notably from rice bran.
[0082] The compounds of formula (I) or (I’) defined above can optionally be introduced into a composition according to the invention in the form of a plant extract. For example, γ-oryzanol may be used in the form of a rice bran extract. Chlorogenic acid may be used in the form of an extract of green coffee, blackcurrant, sunflower, artichoke, honeysuckle, plum, apple, potato, sweet potato, blueberry, arnica or damask rose.
[0083] A certain number of compounds of formula (I) or (I’) are also commercially available, for instance γ-oryzanol available under the trade name Oryzanol® from the company Tsuno Rice Fine Chemicals, Gamma Oryzanol® from the company Ikeda or Oryzanolgamma V® from the company Ichimaru Pharcos, ethyl ferulate under the reference Ethyl Ferulate, Natural or COS by the company Gfn Selco, also available from Sigma-Aldrich, and chlorogenic acid under the reference Eucommia Leaves Extract Chlorogenic Acid 98% by the company Guilin Layn Natural Ingredients.
[0084] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises an organic acid ester chosen from ethyl ferulate, oryzanol and in particular γ-oryzanol, chlorogenic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0085] A composition according to the invention may comprise an amount greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 10.0% by weight of organic acid ester(s) of formula (I), in particular greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 7.0% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 5.0% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0086] As mentioned above, the ester of formula (I) may be used in the form of a plant extract also known as a “crude raw material”, comprising one or more compounds of formula (I) as defined previously. Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise an amount greater than or equal to 1.0% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferentially an amount greater than or equal to 2.0% and less than or equal to 15% by weight of plant extract containing at least one organic acid ester of formula (I), relative to the total weight of said composition.(b) Resveratrol
[0087] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises (b) resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates, or a mixture thereof.
[0088] Resveratrol is a polyphenol that exists in acis(or Z) form and atrans(or E) form, represented below:
[0089]
[0090] The term "resveratrol derivative" is understood to mean compounds of which the backbone is resveratrol as defined above, at least one of the 3 hydroxyl groups of which is salified and / or functionalized in particular by a sugar, in particular glycosyl or glucoside. More particularly, the product of condensation of glucose, in D form, i.e. in the form of α- or β-glucopyranose or of α- or β-furanose, or in L form, with resveratrol, preferably in L form.
[0091] Resveratrol and derivatives thereof, in particulartrans-resveratrol, are known to have many biological properties, such as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity.
[0092] Resveratrol exists in the natural state in its cis and trans form, but also in other derived forms, for instance a glucosylated form.
[0093] Resveratrol and derivatives thereof are present in many plants and fruits. It is found in particular in Japanese knotweed (Fallopia japonica also known as Polygonum cupistadum or else Reynoutria japonica) or in grapes, for instance those from the grapevine species Vitis vinifera. More particularly, resveratrol and derivatives are found, for example, in blackberries, wine or peanuts.
[0094] Generally, resveratrol and derivatives thereof are found in the following plant families: Vitaceae, Myrtaceae, Dipterocarpaceae, Cyperaceae, Gnetaceae, Fabaceae, Pinaceae, Polygonaceae, Moraceae, Fagaceae, Liliaceae, etc.
[0095] Examples of resveratrol derivatives include resveratrol triphosphate of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and especially alkali metal salts, such as sodium resveratrol triphosphate having the following formula, and also the geometric isomers thereof and the solvates thereof such as hydrates:
[0096] .
[0097] Mention may also be made of polydatin, which is a resveratrol derivative, of the following formula, and also the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as hydrates:
[0098] [Chem. 6] .
[0099] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises resveratrol, the salts thereof, resveratrol triphosphate, the salts thereof, polydatin, the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from resveratrol, sodium resveratrol triphosphate and polydatin and mixtures thereof.
[0100] More preferentially, the composition comprises resveratrol. Better still, the composition comprises resveratrol in its trans form.
[0101] The resveratrol, in particular trans-resveratrol or derivatives thereof, present in the composition according to the invention may be of synthetic or natural origin or may be in the form of a plant extract containing resveratrol, in particular trans-resveratrol.
[0102] Preferably, the resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as hydrates, or a mixture thereof, is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in an amount greater than or equal to 0.001% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 2% by weight, even better still greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight and less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.(c) Tocopherol
[0103] The composition according to the invention comprises (c) tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or mixtures thereof.
[0104] The tocopherol preferably corresponds to α-tocopherol, or vitamin E. It has the structure of formula (IV) below:[Chem. 7]
[0105] The term “tocopherol derivative” is preferably understood to mean tocopherol esters and ethers, tocotrienols and optical and geometric isomers thereof, preferably C1-C24, preferably C2-C18, esters and ethers, particularly esters of tocopherol and of carboxylic acids, in particular of (C1-C22)alkylcarboxylic acid, of (C2-C22)alkenylcarboxylic acid, of (hetero)arylcarboxylic acid such as pyridine carboxylic or ethereal acids from (C1-C22)alkanols, or (C2-C22)alkenols.
[0106] According to a preferred embodiment, the tocopherol derivative is chosen from tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl palmitate, tocopheryl linoleate or tocopheryl nicotinate, or a mixture thereof.
[0107] Mention may be made, for example, of the product DL Alpha tocopheryl acetate® sold by the company Eisai.
[0108] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate.
[0109] Preferably, the amount of (c) tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or mixtures thereof in the composition is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, even more preferentially greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight and less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0110] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a resveratrol / organic acid ester of formula (I) ratio greater than or equal to 1 / 50 and less than or equal to 50 / 1, more preferentially greater than or equal to 1 / 20 and less than or equal to 20 / 1, better still greater than or equal to 1 / 10 and less than or equal to 10 / 1, such that the resveratrol / organic acid ester of formula (I) ratio is equal to 0.25+ / -0.05.
[0111] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a resveratrol / oryzanol ratio greater than or equal to 1 / 50, preferably greater than or equal to 1 / 20, more preferentially greater than or equal to 1 / 10, even better still greater than or equal to 1 / 6.
[0112] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a resveratrol / oryzanol ratio greater than or equal to 1 / 50 and less than or equal to 50 / 1, more preferentially greater than or equal to 1 / 20 and less than or equal to 20 / 1, better still greater than or equal to 1 / 10 and less than or equal to 10 / 1, such that the resveratol / oryzanol ratio is equal to 0.25+ / -0.05.
[0113] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a resveratrol / tocopherol ratio greater than or equal to 1 / 50 and less than or equal to 50 / 1, more preferentially greater than or equal to 1 / 20 and less than or equal to 20 / 1, better still greater than or equal to 1 / 10 and less than or equal to 10 / 1, such that the resveratol / tocopherol ratio is equal to 0.25+ / -0.05.(d) Ascorbic acid
[0114] The composition according to the invention comprises (d) ascorbic acid (also called vitamin C), optical isomers thereof, a derivative thereof, salts thereof, or a mixture thereof.
[0115] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises an amount of ascorbic acid, optical isomers thereof, a derivative thereof, salts thereof, or a mixture thereof greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 30% by weight, more particularly greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, and preferably greater than or equal to 5% and less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] More preferentially, a composition according to the invention comprises an amount of ascorbic acid greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, and more preferentially greater than or equal to 5% and less than or equal to 15% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0117] Ascorbic acid may be in D or L form, advantageously in L form.
[0118] By way of example, an ascorbic acid according to the invention is sold by the company Northeast General Pharmaceutical Factory under the trade name Ascorbic Acid EP / BP / USP / FCC / E300®, by the company CSPC Weisheng Pharmaceutical under the name Ascorbic Acid 100 MESH® or by the company DSM under the name Ascorbic Acid Ultra Fine Powder®.
[0119] The ascorbic acid derivatives according to the invention may be chosen from salts, esters, ethers and sugars thereof.
[0120] The salts of ascorbic acid may notably be chosen from sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ethers thereof, notably such as acetic, propionic or palmitic esters thereof, or sugars thereof, notably such as glycosylated ascorbic acid.
[0121] On account of its chemical structure (alpha-keto lactone), which makes it very sensitive, it may be advantageous to use ascorbic acid in the form of an ascorbic acid sugar ester or a phosphorylated ascorbic acid metal salt.
[0122] The sugar esters of ascorbic acid that may be used in the invention are notably glycosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, galactosyl, N-acetylglucosamine and N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof and more especially ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid or 6-O-β-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid. The latter compounds and processes for preparing them are described in particular in EP-A-487404, EP-A-425066 and JP05213736.
[0123] The phosphorylated ascorbic acid metal salt may be chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline-earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates, such as magnesium, sodium, potassium, calcium and zinc.
[0124] According to a particular embodiment, the ascorbic acid derivative is chosen from ascorbyl-2-glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.
[0125] More particularly, the ascorbic acid derivative is chosen from ascorbyl-2 glucoside (or 2-O-α-D glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid) and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
[0126] An ascorbic acid derivative may be 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (or Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, or L-ascorbic acid, 3-O-ethyl ether).
[0127] By way of example, ascorbyl-2 glucoside (or 2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid) is sold by the company Northeast General Pharmaceutical Factory under the trade name L-Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside® (comprising 100% ascorbyl-2 glucoside active material), or by the company Hayashibara under the trade name L-Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside® (comprising 100% ascorbyl-2 glucoside active material).
[0128] By way of example, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (or Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) is sold by the company Nippon Hypox Laboratories under the trade name Vitamin C Ethyl® (comprising 100% 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid active material).
[0129] By way of example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (containing 73% active material in water) is sold by the company Showa Denko under the trade name Ascorbyl PM®, or by the company Jingjiang Hengtong Bio-Engineering under the trade name Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate®, or by the company Merck under the trade name Ronacare Map®.
[0130] According to a preferred embodiment, the ascorbic acid, optical isomers thereof, a derivative thereof, salts thereof is chosen from ascorbic acid, 2-ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and mixtures thereof, preferably ascorbic acid.Aqueous phase
[0131] A composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase and optionally an oily phase.
[0132] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble organic solvent and is preferably single-phase.
[0133] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention has a water content of between 10% and 98% by weight, preferably between 25% and 90% by weight, and more preferentially between 35% and 85%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0134] According to the present invention, the term “water-soluble organic solvent” denotes a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
[0135] The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition of the invention can additionally be volatile.
[0136] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made very particularly of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols and also alkylene carbonates.
[0137] According to an embodiment variant, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32polyol.
[0138] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 30% by total weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition; more preferentially, the composition comprises from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight of at least one polyol, even better still from 0.7% to 5% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0139] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” means any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl (OH) groups.
[0140] A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of alkyl type with a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain. Preferably, a polyol that may be used in the composition according to the invention is a compound of the linear alkyl type bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, preferably from 2 to 6 hydroxyl -OH groups, more preferentially 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups.
[0141] The polyol(s) that are advantageously suitable for the formulation of the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are those notably containing from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0142] The polyol(s) that may be used according to the present invention are chosen from linear polyols containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; mention may notably be made of:- diols, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol; and- triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),and mixtures thereof.
[0143] According to a very preferred embodiment, the polyol is chosen from triols such as glycerol.
[0144] The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as stabilizers, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0145] Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 100% by weight, preferably from 20% to 95% by weight, and more preferentially from 30% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.Fatty phase
[0146] As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.
[0147] For the purposes of the invention, the term “fatty phase” means a phase comprising at least one oil and all of the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and the fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.
[0148] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 95% by weight and preferably from 10% to 80% by weight of fatty phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0149] The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise oils, waxes, pasty compounds, and / or silicone compounds, and preferably at least one oil, notably a cosmetic oil.Oils
[0150] The term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at ambient temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0151] A fatty phase that is suitable for preparing the compositions, notably cosmetic compositions, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils, which may or may not be fluorinated, or mixtures thereof.
[0152] The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0153] The fatty phase can comprise, besides the merocyanine screening agent(s) and optionally the lipophilic additional screening agents, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and / or one volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil and / or one volatile and / or non-volatile fluoro oil.
[0154] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
[0155] The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and notably at least one Si-O group.
[0156] The term “fluoro oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
[0157] The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.Volatile oils
[0158] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” is understood to mean any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound that is liquid at ambient temperature, particularly having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
[0159] The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils.
[0160] Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made notably of branched C8-C16 alkanes, for instance C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0161] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for instance n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
[0162] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethyl-hexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
[0163] Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.
[0164] Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.Non-volatile oils
[0165] The term “non-volatile” refers to an oil for which the vapour pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10-3mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0166] The non-volatile oils may notably be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon, fluoro and / or silicone oils.
[0167] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may notably be mentioned include:- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof,- non-volatile alkanes, preferably of viscosity less than 20 mPa.s at 20°C measured with a Rheomat RM100® viscometer from Lamy Rheology. The term “non-volatile alkane” means a hydrocarbon cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, notably having a vapour pressure at 20°C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) of Article 2 of European Council Directive 1999 / 13 / EC of 11 March, 1999: “Any organic compound having at 293.15 K a vapour pressure of 0.01 kPa or more”. In particular, the non-volatile alkanes comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of alkanes of from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, for example the products sold under the references of Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from SEPPIC,- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, Muscat rose oil; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,- synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether,- synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, such as for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by the company Stéarinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxy esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates, such as the ester of C3-C22tricarboxylic acid and of C1-C6alcohols having the INCI name Tiethyl Citrate, for example the product sold under the name Citrofol AI Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale and also linear dialkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates,- fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205 from Ajinomoto,- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate,- fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, and that have a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol,- C12-C22higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,- carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis,- non-phenylated silicone oils, such as for example caprylyl methicone, and- phenylated silicone oils, such as for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof;and also mixtures of these various oils.Other fatty substances
[0168] A fatty phase according to the invention can additionally comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in an oil.
[0169] The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example:- fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;- waxes, different from glyceryl trihydroxystearate, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes;- silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-C4-alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone;- silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil or BY29 by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries;- a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol);- a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof;- and mixtures thereof.
[0170] As fatty substances, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty alcohol wax. Such waxes may be chosen from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0171] As fatty substance, a composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one butter, in particular a plant butter.
[0172] The plant butter(s) that are suitable for use in the invention are preferably chosen from the group comprising avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter and urukum butter, and mixtures thereof, and in particular is shea butter.
[0173] These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.
[0174] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, preferably at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, in particular chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, non-volatile alkanes, hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, synthetic esters, fatty amides, carbonates, and also mixtures of these various oils, even better still chosen from synthesis esters, fatty amides, carbonates, and a mixture thereof.
[0175] In particular, such non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2.0% to 20.0% by weight and preferably from 2.0% to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0176] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one oil chosen from squalane, mixtures of alkanes containing from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, alkyl benzoates containing between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate, the ester of C3-C22tricarboxylic acid and of C1-C6alcohols having the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof, even better still chosen from diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate.
[0177] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferentially is free of silicone oil(s).
[0178] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one fatty substance.
[0179] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and preferably at least one non-volatile ester oil.UV-screening agents
[0180] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one UV-screening agent.
[0181] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one compound for screening out UVA and / or UVB.
[0182] The compositions according to the invention may thus also contain one or more UV-screening agents chosen from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV-screening agents and / or one or more mineral pigments. It will preferentially be constituted of at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV-screening agent.
[0183] The term “hydrophilic UV-screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation that can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
[0184] The term “lipophilic screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation that can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
[0185] An “insoluble UV-screening agent” is understood to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation which has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in the majority of organic solvents such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® sold by Dynamit Nobel. This solubility, determined at 70°C, is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to ambient temperature. It can be easily evaluated in the laboratory.
[0186] The organic UV-screening agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, as described in patents EP 0 669 323 and US 2 463 264; p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, as described in patent applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 0 893 119; benzoxazole compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones, such as those described in particular in patent application WO 93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene-based dimers, such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0 967 200, DE 19746654, DE 19755649, EP 1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 0 133 981, and mixtures thereof.
[0187] Mention may be made, as examples of organic photoprotective agents, of those denoted below under their INCI names.
[0188] Cinnamic compounds:- Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate notably sold under the trade name Parsol MCX® by DSM Nutritional Products,- Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate,- Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by Symrise,- DEA Methoxycinnamate,- Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,- Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.
[0189] Dibenzoylmethane compounds:- Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, notably sold under the trade name Parsol 1789® by DSM Nutritional Products,- Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.
[0190] para-Aminobenzoic compounds:- PABA,- Ethyl PABA,- Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,- Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA notably sold under the name Escalol 507® by ISP,- Glyceryl PABA,- PEG-25 PABA sold under the name Uvinul P25® by BASF.
[0191] Salicylic compounds:- Homosalate sold under the name Eusolex HMS® by Rona / EM Industries,- Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS® by Symrise,- Dipropylene Glycol Salicylate sold under the name Dipsal® by Scher,- TEA Salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS® by Symrise.
[0192] β,β-Diphenylacrylate compounds:- Octocrylene, notably sold under the trade name Uvinul N539® by BASF,- Etocrylene, notably sold under the trade name Uvinul N35® by BASF.
[0193] Benzophenone compounds:- Benzophenone-1, sold under the trade name Uvinul 400® by BASF,- Benzophenone-2, sold under the trade name Uvinul D 50® by BASF,- Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul M 40® by BASF,- Benzophenone-4, sold under the trade name Uvinul MS 40® by BASF,- Benzophenone-5,- Benzophenone-6, sold under the trade name Helisorb 11® by Norquay,- Benzophenone-8, sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24® by American Cyanamid,- Benzophenone-9, sold under the trade name Uvinul DS 49® by BASF,- Benzophenone-12,- n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate sold under the trade name Uvinul A Plus ® or as a mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name Uvinul A Plus B® by the company BASF,- 1,1′-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 µm) and possibly being obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB 2 303 549 and EP 0 893 119 and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion.
[0194] Benzylidenecamphor compounds:- 3-Benzylidenecamphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SD® by Chimex,- 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the name Eusolex 6300® by Merck,- Benzylidenecamphorsulfonic Acid manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL® by Chimex,- Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO® by Chimex,- Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX® by Chimex,- Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SW® by Chimex.
[0195] Phenylbenzimidazole compounds:- Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, notably sold under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.
[0196] Bis-benzazolyl compounds:- Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP® by Haarmann and Reimer.
[0197] Phenylbenzotriazole compounds:- Drometrizole Trisiloxane, sold under the name Silatrizole® by Rhodia Chimie.
[0198] Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:- Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name Mixxim BB / 100® by Fairmount Chemical, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 µm and more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 µm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 µm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure CnH2n+1O(C6H10O5)xH, in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the mean degree of polymerization of the (C6H10O5) unit and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in patent GB 2 303 549, sold in particular under the trade name Tinosorb M® by BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 µm and more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 µm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 µm, in the presence of at least one polyglyceryl mono(C8-C20)alkyl ester with a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO 2009 / 063392.
[0199] Triazine compounds:- 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), with the INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine, and with the following chemical structure:
[0200]
[0201] - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, sold under the trade name Tinosorb S® by BASF,- Ethylhexyl Triazone, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T 150® by BASF,- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB® by Sigma 3V,- 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,- 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,- 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,- 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,- symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US 6 225 467, application WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC West Henrietta NY, US (20 September 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(diphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)triazine, which is reproduced in patent applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992, WO 2006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size from 0.02 to 3 µm) which can be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,- triazine silicones substituted with two aminobenzoate groups as described in patent EP 0 841 341, in particular 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4′-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine.
[0202] Anthranilic compounds:- Menthyl anthranilate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA® by Symrise.
[0203] Imidazoline compounds:- Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.
[0204] Benzalmalonate compounds:- Polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by Hoffmann La Roche.
[0205] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds:- 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2’-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
[0206] Benzoxazole compounds:- 2,4-bis[5-(1-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb K2A® by Sigma 3V.
[0207] The preferential organic screening agents are chosen from:- Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,- Ethylhexyl Salicylate,- Homosalate,- Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane,- Octocrylene,- Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic Acid,- Benzophenone-3,- Benzophenone-4,- Benzophenone-5,- n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,- 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor,- Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic Acid,- Disodium Phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate,- Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol,- Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine,- Ethylhexyl Triazone,- Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone,- 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,- 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,- 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,- 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,- 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,- 2,4,6-tris(diphenyl)triazine,- 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine,- Drometrizole Trisiloxane,- Polysilicone-15,- 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2’-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,- 2,4-bis[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine,- and mixtures thereof.
[0208] The particularly preferred organic screening agents are chosen from:- Ethylhexyl Salicylate,- Homosalate,- Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane,- Octocrylene,- n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,- Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid,- Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine,- Ethylhexyl Triazone,- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,- 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,- Drometrizole Trisiloxane,- and mixtures thereof.
[0209] The inorganic UV-screening agents used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV-screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having a mean elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferentially of between 0.005 and 0.5 µm and more preferentially still of between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, better still between 0.01 and 0.1 µm and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm.
[0210] They may notably be chosen from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof.
[0211] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP 0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.
[0212] The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
[0213] The coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
[0214] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated with:- silica, such as the Sunveil® product from Ikeda,- silica and iron oxide, such as the Sunveil F® product from Ikeda,- silica and alumina, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA® and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA from Tayca, Tioveil from the company Tioxide,- alumina, such as the products Tipaque TTO-55 (B)® and Tipaque TTO-55 (A)® from the company Ishihara, and UVT 14 / 4 from the company Sachtleben Pigments,- alumina and aluminium stearate, such as the Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z®, MT-01® products from Tayca, the products Solaveil CT-10 W® and Solaveil CT 100® from Uniqema and the product Eusolex T-AVO® from Merck,- silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100 AQ® from Tayca,- alumina and aluminium laurate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S® from Tayca,- iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F® from Tayca,- zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the product BR 351® from Tayca,- silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS®, Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS® from Tayca,- silica, alumina and aluminium stearate and treated with a silicone, such as the product STT-30-DS® from Titan Kogyo,- silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product UV-Titan X 195® from Sachtleben Pigments,- alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products Tipaque TTO-55 (S)® from Ishihara, or UV Titan M 262® from the company Sachtleben Pigments,- triethanolamine, such as the product STT-65-S from the company Titan Kogyo,- stearic acid, such as the product Tipaque TTO-55 (C)® from the company Ishihara,- sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W® from Tayca,- TiO2treated with octyltrimethylsilane, sold under the trade name T 805® by Degussa Silices,- TiO2treated with a polydimethylsiloxane, sold under the trade name 70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3® by Cardre,- anatase / rutile TiO2treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane, sold under the trade name Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic® by the company Color Techniques,- TiO2coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminium stearate and alumina, sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD) from Croda,- TiO2coated with aluminium stearate, alumina and silicone, sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD) from Croda,- TiO2coated with lauroyl lysine, sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name LL 5 Titanium Dioxide CR 50,- TiO2coated with C9-15fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminium hydroxide, sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name PFX-5 TiO2 CR-50.
[0215] Mention may also be made of TiO2pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may further comprise one or more dispersants, for instance a sorbitan ester, such as sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, such as TRI-PPG3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO2particles doped with manganese in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate having the INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Tri-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate (and) Sorbitan Isostearate, such as the product sold under the trade name Optisol TD50®by the company Croda.
[0216] The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT600 B®, by the company Degussa under the name P 25, by the company Wacker under the name Transparent titanium oxide PW®, by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR®, by the company Tomen under the name ITS® and by the company Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.
[0217] The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:- those sold under the name Z-Cote by the company Sunsmart;- those sold under the name Nanox® by the company Elementis;- those sold under the name Nanogard WCD 2025® by the company Nanophase Technologies.
[0218] The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:- those sold under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5® by Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane);- those sold under the name Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN® by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, C12-C15alkyl benzoates);- those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-30® and Daitopersion Zn-50® by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane / cyclopolymethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane);- those sold under the name NFD Ultrafine ZnO® by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl in dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane);- those sold under the name SPD-Z1® by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);- those sold under the name Escalol Z100® by ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in an ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone mixture);- those sold under the name Fuji ZnO-SMS-10® by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);- those sold under the name Nanox Gel TN® by the company Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
[0219] The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide® by Rhône-Poulenc.
[0220] The uncoated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002® (FE 45B®), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ® and Nanogard WCD 2006® (FE 45R®) or by the company Mitsubishi under the name TY-220®.
[0221] The coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN®), Nanogard WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345® and Nanogard FE 45 BL® or by the company BASF under the name Transparent Iron Oxide®.
[0222] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, especially of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by Ikeda under the name Sunveil A®, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product M 261® sold by Sachtleben Pigments, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product M 211® sold by Sachtleben Pigments.
[0223] According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.
[0224] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises one or more lipophilic UV-screening agents.
[0225] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more UV-screening agents chosen from lipophilic UVA-screening agents and / or lipophilic UVB-screening agents.
[0226] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more UV-screening agents chosen from organic UV-screening agents, more preferentially chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, salicylic derivatives, β,β′-diphenylacrylate derivatives, triazine derivatives and benzylidenecamphor derivatives, or a mixture thereof, better still dibenzoylmethane derivatives, triazine derivatives or a mixture thereof.
[0227] According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more UV-screening agents chosen from Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Triazone, and mixtures thereof.
[0228] According to one embodiment, the amount of the organic UV-screening agent(s) present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It ranges for example from 1% to 5% by weight, or else for example from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0229] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of UV-screening agents of less than or equal to 10%, more preferentially less than or equal to 5%, better still less than or equal to 3% and even better still less than or equal to 1%.
[0230] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one mineral UV-screening agent.
[0231] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise the compound 2-ethoxyethyl(2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene}ethanoate; preferably, the composition does not comprise merocyanine.
[0232] According to one particular embodiment, the amount of the mineral UV-screening agent(s) present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It ranges, for example, from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0233] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more organic UV-screening agents and one or more mineral UV-screening agents.
[0234] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises a combination of UV-screening agents as described in patent FR 2 977 490, application WO 2013 / 004777 or application US 2014 / 0134120.Hydrophilic gelling agent / thickener
[0235] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one gelling agent (or thickener) that is hydrophilic, i.e. that is water-soluble or water-dispersible.
[0236] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) by the company Goodrich; polyacrylamides; optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, for instance poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, which are in the form of a W / O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, scleroglucan gum, alginates, modified celluloses; and mixtures thereof. The amount of gelling agents depends on the desired objective.
[0237] More preferentially, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharide biopolymers such as scleroglucan gum.
[0238] According to one embodiment, the amount of hydrophilic gelling agents ranges for example from 0.01% to 10% and for example from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Additional active agent(s)
[0239] The composition may also comprise at least one additional active agent.
[0240] Active agents that may be mentioned include, for example, moisturizers, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-ageing agents, mattifying agents, cicatrizing agents, preserving agents such as antibacterial agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0241] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 20% by total weight of at least one active agent, preferentially from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one active agent relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0242] The compositions of the invention may contain one or more adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields; emollients; sequestrants; antioxidants; fillers; free-radical scavengers; essential oils; fragrances; film-forming agents; dyes; and mixtures thereof. The total amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, these amounts vary according to the desired aim and may range, for example, from 0.01% to 20% and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0243] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
[0244] The amounts of these various active agents are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, these amounts vary according to the desired aim and may range, for example, from 0.01% to 20% and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0245] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention is aqueous and comprises one or more surfactants preferably chosen from non-ionic and / or anionic surfactants. In particular, the composition of the invention also comprises one or more fatty substances which are preferably liquid at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0246] The compositions according to the invention may also be in particular in the form of a simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / O or W / O / W) emulsion, such as a cream, a milk or a gel-cream.
[0247] A composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, for example an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, of a gel, for example an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsified gel, of an aqueous composition, or else in the form of a composition of gel / gel type.
[0248] Preferably, the composition is an emulsion, notably a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, more preferentially an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0249] In the case of a direct emulsion, the pH of the composition in accordance with the invention is generally between 3 and 12 approximately, preferably between 5 and 11 approximately and even more particularly from 5.5 to 8; better still, the pH is between 5 and 7.
[0250] A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, preferably a cosmetic composition for caring for keratin materials, in particular of the body or of the face, preferably of the face.
[0251] Such compositions as defined previously may especially be employed for a cosmetic use according to the invention.
[0252] Thus, the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, preferably for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or of the face.
[0253] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined previously to said keratin materials.
[0254] Preferably, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular of the body and / or of the face, comprising at least one step of applying a composition as defined above to said keratin materials.
[0255] The cosmetic processes for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, are non-therapeutic.
[0256] In particular, the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as described above, for protecting keratin materials, in particular the skin, against solar radiation.
[0257] The invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined above, for combating or preventing the signs of photo-induced premature ageing of keratin materials, in particular the skin.
[0258] In addition, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above, for preventing premature ageing of keratin materials, in particular the skin, especially on the face, the neckline, the arms, the hands and / or the shoulders, in particular the signs of skin ageing of actinic origin, such as photoageing.
[0259] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above to prevent a loss of firmness and / or elasticity and / or tonicity and / or suppleness of the skin, the formation of wrinkles and fine lines, a dull complexion, and / or a wizened appearance of the skin.
[0260] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for protecting keratin materials, in particular the skin, against solar radiation, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition according to the invention.
[0261] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition according to the invention.
[0262] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “preventing” is understood to mean, at least partly, reducing the risk of occurrence of a given phenomenon.
[0263] The composition in accordance with the invention may be obtained in the usual manner for a person skilled in the art.
[0264] The examples which follow will make possible a better understanding of the invention without, however, exhibiting a limiting nature. The starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name.ExamplesPhotostabilization of Resveratrol:
[0265] The compositionsA and Cwere prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below (% active material):INCI nameComposition A (invention)Composition C (comparative)ORYZANOL (a)1.00-RESVERATROL (b)0.250.25TOCOPHEROL (c)1.001.00ASCORBIC ACID (d)12.0012.00BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE0.500.50BIS(ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL)METHOXYPHENYLTRIAZINE0.500.50DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE4.004.00DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE3.003.00ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATE8.008.00GLYCEROL5.005.00STEARYL ALCOHOL0.401.00SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE0.750.75SUCROSE TRISTEARATE2.002.00SEQUESTRANT0.500.50SCLEROTIUM GUM0.500.50PRESERVING AGENT(S)1.201.20ADENOSINE0.100.10SODIUM HYDROXIDEQS pH 6.0 + / -0.3QS pH 6.0 + / -0.3WATERQS100QS100Protocol for measuring the photostability
[0266] The compositions are analyzed to evaluate the resveratrol photostability during exposure of the compositions to UV radiation.
[0267] Each of the compositions A and C was applied independently onto an inert support (n=4 assays for each formula tested). The supports thus covered were exposed to UV radiation of 5 J / cm2for approximately 1 hour. The exposed compositions were then diluted in a solvent (organic solvent) and the solutions were analyzed by HPLC or UPLC chromatographic methods.
[0268] The amount of resveratrol in each of the compositions was measured by HPLC-UV assay at t1 and t2, as indicated below:t1: After preparation of the composition and placing in the oven (used as a reference);t2: After exposure of the compositions to UV radiation.
[0269] The details of the HPLC-UV assays are as follows:
[0270] Instruments / Reagents:HPLC systemUltra Performance LC (UPLC)HPLC columnRP18, 1.7, 2.1 mm x 100 mmEluent A0.1% phosphoric acidEluent BMethanol
[0271] Conditions:UV detector296 nmColumn temperature30℃Flow rate0.4 ml / minInjection volume1 µlMobile phaseGradientA: 0.1% phosphoric acid in waterB: Methanol
[0272] The amount of resveratrol contained in the compositions A and C before (t1) and after exposure to UV radiation (t2) was determined by HPLC-UV and the ratio t2 / t1 x100a was calculated.
[0273] Results:
[0274] The amounts (%) of trans-resveratrol remaining after exposure of the compositions A and C to UV radiation are given in the table below:CompositionAmount of trans-resveratrol remaining after exposure to UV radiationA (invention)73%C (comparative)63%
[0275] The results obtained show that composition A comprising oryzanol makes it possible to increase the photostability of trans-resveratrol compared with comparative composition C not comprising it.Study of pro-collagen productionCompositions:
[0276] CompositionAas defined above and CompositionB (“Placebo”)were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below (% active material):
[0277] INCI NAMEComposition B(Placebo)TOCOPHEROL (c)1.00ASCORBIC ACID (d)12DIISOPROPYL ADIPATE4.00DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE3.00ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATE8.00GLYCEROL5.00STEARYL ALCOHOL0.40PRESERVING AGENT(S)1.7CAPRYLYL GLYCOL0.50SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE0.75SUCROSE TRISTEARATE2.00SEQUESTRANT0.18SCLEROTIUM GUM0.50ADENOSINE0.10FRAGRANCE0.20SODIUM HYDROXIDEQS pH 6 + / - 0.3WATERQS100Evaluation of pro-collagen production
[0278] The efficacy of combinations in accordance with the invention and outside the invention is tested by assaying pro-collagen 1 in a culture medium of normal human dermal fibroblasts exposed to UVA.
[0279] The other materials and the protocol used are specified below.
[0280] Experimental protocolCell culture:- Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) obtained from a mammary plasty;- Culture: 37°C, 5% CO2,- Culture and test medium: MEM (Gibco 21090-022) containing 2 mM L-glutamine (Gibco 25030-024) and 10% Gibco 10270-098, 1 mM sodium pyruvate (Gibco 11360-039), 1X non-essential amino acids (Gibco 11140-035), 250 ng / ml amphotericin B (Gibco 15290-018) and penicillin / streptomycin 20 U / 20 µg / ml.
[0281] The normal human dermal fibroblasts were seeded in complete MEM medium and incubated for 72 h at 37°C and 5% CO2.Plating the formulas:
[0282] The formulas described above are uniformly distributed (1.3 mg / cm²) on PMMA plates: Composition A according to the invention and Composition B (placebo).
[0283] The cells are pretreated in the culture medium with the antioxidant(s) (resveratrol and / or tocopherol) for 24 h and then exposed for 3 consecutive days to a dose of 20 J / cm² of total UVA using an Oriel solar simulator equipped with a WG335 filter. Depending on the conditions, a PMMA plate to which the formula comprising the compositions according to the invention or the “placebo” composition is applied is placed over the cells during exposure. After each exposure, the cells are optionally treated with ascorbic acid (10 µM) and the antioxidant(s) (1 µM resveratrol and / or 1 µM tocopherol) diluted in the culture medium. The cells are then incubated at 37°C, 5% CO2. 48 hours after the last exposure, a cell viability test (XTT Roche cat. 11465015001) is performed, and the number of cells in each well is evaluated by means of a Cyquant assay (Molecular Probes C7026). The media are collected and a pro-collagen I assay is performed by ELISA (Abcam ab210966). The results are the result of n trials (n=9).
[0284] Each experimental condition was performed in duplicate or triplicate and at least 3 independent experiments were performed.
[0285] The results are given in the following table.
[0286] UVACompositionTreatmentsMean pro-collagen 1 (normalized by Cyquant signal and relative to the unexposed Control)relative % relative to the control 0J0 J / cm² / Control100DMSO105.44+5.4%VitC229.16+129.2%20 J / cm²Composition B(Placebo)VitC91.66-8.3%VitC + Resveratrol + Tocopherol115.68+15.7Composition A(according to the invention)VitC112.03+12.0%VitC + Resveratrol + Tocopherol144.34+44.3%
[0287] Under these experimental conditions, the amount of pro-collagen I synthesized and secreted by the fibroblasts 60 h after the last exposure is correctly detectable. Ascorbic acid tested at 10 µM significantly increases the secretion of pro-collagen I by the fibroblasts. UVA significantly reduces the ability of ascorbic acid to induce pro-collagen I secretion.
[0288] The combination according to the invention of ascorbic acid with tocopherol, resveratrol and oryzanol (Composition A) makes it possible to significantly increase pro-collagen I secretion compared with the placebo composition containing only ascorbic acid and tocopherol (Composition B) under conditions for treatment of similar cells under intense UVA irradiation.
[0289] The action of vitamin C, resveratrol and tocopherol on pro-collagen synthesis was demonstrated in the above assays. In addition, oryzanol allows photostabilization of resveratrol in the composition.
[0290] Thus, the combination comprising ascorbic acid, tocopherol, resveratrol and oryzanol makes it possible to increase pro-collagen secretion under UVA irradiation (Composition A according to the invention).Compositions A' and B'
[0291] [Table 7]
[0292] CompositionsA'andB'were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below (% active ingredient) according to the same production process and the same process for measuring the photostability:INCI namePhaseComposition A' (comparative)Composition B' (invention)TOCOPHEROLE1.001.00ASCORBIC ACIDD12.0012.00DICAPRYLYL CARBONATEB5.004.00GLYCEROLA5.005.00ORYZANOLB-1.00SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATEA0.750.75PRESERVING AGENTB1.201.20SUCROSE TRISTEARATEB2.002.00DIISOPROPYL SEBACATEB4.003.50ADENOSINEA0.100.10ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATEB8.008.00STEARYL ALCOHOLB0.401.00SEQUESTRANTA0.500.50RESVERATROLB0.250.25SCLEROTIUM GUMA0.500.50SODIUM HYDROXIDEDQS pH 6+ / -0.3QS pH 6+ / -0.3WATERAQS100QS100
[0293] Results:
[0294] The amounts (%) of trans-resveratrol remaining after exposure of the compositions A' and B' to UV radiation are given in the table below:CompositionAmount of trans-resveratrol remaining after exposure to UV radiationA' (comparative)0%B' (invention)13%
[0295] The results obtained show that composition B' comprising oryzanol makes it possible to increase the photostability of trans-resveratrol compared with the comparative composition A' not comprising it.
[0296] The presence of oryzanol makes it possible to "boost" the photostability of trans-resveratrol in a composition not comprising UV-screening agents (Composition B′ according to the invention).
[0297] It follows from this that the presence of oryzanol makes it possible to improve the photostability of trans-resveratrol in a composition with and without UV-screening agents.
[0298] The compositions B′ according to the invention are physicochemically stable, in particular after storage for 2 months at ambient temperature.
Claims
Composition, notably cosmetic composition, comprising:(a) at least one organic acid ester of formula (I), or one of the geometric isomers thereof, organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, or solvates thereof, in particular hydrates:in which formula (I):R1, R4and R5represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom;R2represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group, in particular a (C1-C4)alkoxy group, and preferably a methoxy;R3represents a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a hydroxyl group; andR6represents a group chosen from:i) (C1-C6)alkyl, in particular a (C1-C4)alkyl group, preferably methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl,ii) cycloalkyl, optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from (C1-C10)alkyl, (C2-C10)alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, andiii) glycosyl,(b) resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates, or mixtures thereof;(c) tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or a mixture thereof;(d) ascorbic acid, optical isomers thereof, a derivative thereof, salts thereof, or a mixture thereof.Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising:(a) at least one organic acid ester of formula (I), or one of the geometric isomers thereof, organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, or solvates thereof, in particular hydrates:in which formula (I):R1, R4and R5represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom;R2represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group, in particular a (C1-C4)alkoxy group, and preferably a methoxy;R3represents a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a hydroxyl group; andR6represents a group chosen from:i) (C1-C6)alkyl, in particular a (C1-C4)alkyl group, preferably methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl,ii) cycloalkyl polycyclic cycloalkyl group ii), preferably comprising between 2 and 5 fused rings, comprising from 12 to 32 carbon atoms and being optionally substituted; in particular, the cycloalkyl is a polycyclic group comprising between 4 and 5 fused rings, said rings being 3-, 5- or 6-membered and containing 16 to 20 carbon atoms, better still 17 or 18 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from (C1-C10)alkyl, (C2-C10)alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, andiii) glycosyl,(b) resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, salts thereof and solvates thereof such as hydrates, or mixtures thereof;(c) tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or a mixture thereof;(d) ascorbic acid, optical isomers thereof, a derivative thereof, salts thereof, or a mixture thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said organic acid ester is of formula (I’):in which formula (I’):R6represents a group chosen from:i) (C1-C6)alkyl, in particular a (C1-C4)alkyl group, preferably methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl,ii) cycloalkyl preferably polycyclic group ii), said rings being 3-, 5- or 6-membered and containing 16 to 20 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from (C1-C10)alkyl, (C2-C10)alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, andiii) glycosyl; andR7represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C6)alkyl group;preferably, said organic acid ester of formula (I’) is chosen from methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate , chlorogenic acid, isopropyl ferulate or else esters of ferulic acid and sterol, more preferably methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, isopropyl ferulate or else esters of ferulic acid and sterol, such as oryzanol, in particular gamma-oryzanol.Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, in which the amount of organic acid ester(s) of formula (I) is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 10.0% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 7.0% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 5.0% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which (b) resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as hydrates is (are) chosen from resveratrol, the salts thereof, resveratrol triphosphate, the salts thereof, polydatin, the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from resveratrol, sodium resveratrol triphosphate and polydatin and mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which (b) resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, and the solvates thereof such as hydrates is resveratrol, preferably in its trans form.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the resveratrol, a derivative thereof and also the geometric isomer forms thereof, the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as hydrates, or a mixture thereof, is (are) present in an amount greater than or equal to 0.001% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 2% by weight, even better still greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight and less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the tocopherol derivatives are chosen from tocopherol esters and ethers, tocotrienols and the optical and geometric isomers thereof, preferably the C1-C24, preferably C2-C18, esters and ethers, more preferentially chosen from tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl palmitate, tocopheryl linoleate or tocopheryl nicotinate, or a mixture thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amount of (c) tocopherol, a derivative thereof, a salt thereof, an optical isomer thereof, or mixtures thereof in the composition is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferentially greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight and less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the ascorbic acid, optical isomers thereof, a derivative thereof, salts thereof is chosen from ascorbic acid, 2-ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and mixtures thereof, preferably ascorbic acid.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amount of ascorbic acid, optical isomers thereof, a derivative thereof, salts thereof, or a mixture thereof is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 30% by weight, more particularly greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, and preferably greater than or equal to 5% and less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more UV-screening agents, preferably chosen from organic UV-screening agents, more preferentially chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, salicylic derivatives, β,β′-diphenylacrylate derivatives, triazine derivatives and benzylidenecamphor derivatives, better still dibenzoylmethane derivatives, triazine derivatives or a mixture thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more hydrophilic gelling agents, more preferentially chosen from modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamides, polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which have been optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid), crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, scleroglucan gum, alginates, modified celluloses, and mixtures thereof; better still, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharide biopolymers such as scleroglucan gum.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more oil(s), preferably a non-volatile oil, more preferentially chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, non-volatile alkanes, hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, synthetic esters, fatty amides, carbonates, as well as mixtures better chosen from synthesis esters, fatty amides, carbonates, and a mixture thereof, such as diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate.Process for treating keratin materials, in particular facial and / or bodily skin, comprising the application of said composition, notably cosmetic composition, according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 to said keratin materials, notably under UV irradiation.Process according to the preceding claim for cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment to prevent ageing of keratin materials, in particular under UV exposure.Use for treating keratin materials, in particular for caring for the bodily and / or facial skin, in particular for protecting the skin using the composition, preferably cosmetic composition, according to any one of Claims 1 to 14.Use according to the preceding claims, for cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment for caring for the bodily and / or facial skin, in particular for protecting the skin, in particular under UV exposure.
Citation Information
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