Composition comprising an amino acid, a hydroxylated (POLY)carboxylic acid, a silicone and a non-silicone solid fatty substance with a specific non-silicone solid fatty substance / silicone ratio

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, notably a hair composition, comprising one or more compounds of amino acid type, one or more hydroxycarboxylic acids, one or more silicones and one or more non-silicone solid fatty substances with a non-silicone solid fatty substance(s) / silicone(s) weight ratio of less than or equal to 10. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for washing and / or conditioning the hair, using said composition.

Description

Composition comprising an amino acid, a hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acid, a silicone and a non-silicone solid fatty substance with a specific non-silicone solid fatty substance / silicone ratio

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, notably a hair composition, comprising one or more compounds of amino acid type, one or more hydroxycarboxylic acids, one or more silicones and one or more non-silicone solid fatty substances with a non-silicone solid fatty substance(s) / silicone(s) weight ratio of less than or equal to 10. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process using said composition.

[0002] Hair may be damaged or embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as the light and weathering, or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and / or relaxing. In particular, dyeing or bleaching hair compositions can sometimes be responsible for degrading the quality of the hair fibres, as the proteins making up the hair can be denatured. This degradation of the fibre quality may lead to substantial breakage during combing of the hair, notably when these compositions are applied to sensitized hair, and also to a degradation of the cosmetic properties of the hair, most particularly the sheen. To overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to make use of hair treatments which can condition the hair. These haircare compositions may be conditioning shampoos or hair conditioners, which may be in the form of hair gels or lotions or more or less thick creams. However, it is still possible to improve the performance afforded by such compositions, notably in terms of providing strength (denser, stiffer hair), and also in terms of cosmetic properties such as disentangling, a smooth feel, suppleness, softness, manageability, hair strand separation and sheen.

[0003] The composition which is the subject of the present invention, and the use thereof, allow this aim to be achieved.

[0004] One subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition, notably a hair composition, comprising:

[0005] - one or more compounds of amino acid type, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0006] - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0007] - one or more silicones,

[0008] - one or more non-silicone solid fatty substances,

[0009] it being understood that the weight ratio between the total content of non-silicone solid fatty substance(s) and the total content of silicone(s) is less than or equal to 10.

[0010] The composition according to the invention was found to improve the hair's resistance to breakage, to strengthen the hair and also to significantly limit its reduction or loss of sheen, or even to improve its sheen.

[0011] The composition according to the invention affords the hair good cosmetic properties, notably in terms of transformation of the hair, disentangling, a smooth feel, suppleness, softness, manageability and hair strand separation, and also excellent performance in terms of sheen, and does so while affording strength, body and a volumizing effect to the head of hair.

[0012] The composition according to the invention finds a very particular application in the cosmetic treatment, notably the conditioning, of keratin fibres that have become sensitized, embrittled and / or damaged, notably following physical treatments (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments, for example dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving and / or relaxing.

[0013] In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0014] Moreover, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”, and may be replaced therewith.

[0015] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “the hair” means head hair. This term does not correspond to bodily hairs, the eyebrows or the eyelashes.

[0016] “Transformation” or “transformation on application” is understood as meaning the softening of the keratin fibre on contact with a composition. More particularly, the composition according to the invention is applied to wet hair. The property of transformation is therefore evaluated on wet hair.Compounds of amino acid type

[0017] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least 0.5% by weight of one or more compounds of amino acid type.

[0018] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “compound of amino acid type” means an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions and one or more amine functions, it being possible for the amine function(s) to be endocyclic, optionally in salt form.

[0019] Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type are chosen from compounds of amino acid type comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (thus not comprising any sulfonic acid functions) and / or salts thereof. Said compounds are also called compounds of aminocarboxylic acid type and are particularly preferred.

[0020] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (A) below and / or salts thereof.

[0021] The compounds of amino acid type may thus correspond to formula (A): (A)

[0022] in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:

[0023] - when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, it being possible for this ring to be substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1-C4)alkyl;

[0024] - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C12)alkyl and preferably (C1-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from –S–, –NH– or –C(NH)– and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2or –NH–C(NH)–NH2.

[0025] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated 5-membered heterocycle, this ring not being substituted.

[0026] Preferably, p = 2.

[0027] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with an –S– heteroatom and / or optionally substituted with one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or –NH–C(NH)–NH2.

[0028] Preferentially, p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0029] The compounds of amino acid type may also be a salt of a compound of formula (A).

[0030] These salts comprise the salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, for instance the lithium, sodium or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline-earth metals, for instance the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts.

[0031] The compounds of amino acid type may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0032] As examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0033] Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof (notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0034] Preferentially, the compound(s) of amino acid type according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0035] Better still, the compound of amino acid type is chosen from glycine, salts thereof (notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0036] As glycine salts according to the present invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0037] Preferably, the compound of amino acid type is glycine.

[0038] The total content of compound(s) of amino acid type present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.6% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.7% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.9% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] In particular, the total content of compound(s) of aminocarboxylic acid type in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.6% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.7% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.9% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Better still, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.6% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.7% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.9% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] Most particularly, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.6% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.7% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.9% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Better still, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.6% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.7% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.9% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids

[0043] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least 0.5% by weight of one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof.

[0044] These (poly)acids are different from the compounds of amino acid type described previously.

[0045] Said (poly)acids comprise at least one COOH group (in acid or salified form); they may comprise several, notably at least two COOH groups (in acid or salified form), better still two to three COOH groups (in acid or salified form).

[0046] They also comprise at least one OH group, but may comprise several thereof, notably from two to three OH groups.

[0047] Preferably, they comprise in total from four to six carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon-based chain is saturated and linear.

[0048] Advantageously, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or salts thereof comprise in total from four to six carbon atoms, from one to three OH groups and two to three COOH groups (in acid or salified form).

[0049] The salts of these (poly)acids comprise the salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, such as the lithium, sodium or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline-earth metals, such as the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts. The alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts are preferred and in particular the sodium salts.

[0050] Preferably, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids or salts thereof are chosen from α-hydroxy acids and salts thereof, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts; most particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid and also salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metals salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; better still citric acid or salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

[0051] The total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total from two to eight carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof, present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight or even from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total from four to six carbon atoms, from one to three OH groups and two or three COOH groups, or salts thereof, present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight or even from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Most particularly, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight or even from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] Better still, the content of citric acid and / or salts thereof in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight or even from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises glycolic acid, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.06% to 2.5% by weight and better still from 0.07% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Silicones

[0056] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicones, which may be chosen in particular from amino silicones, non-amino silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Non-amino silicones

[0058] The composition according to the invention may thus comprise one or more non-amino silicones, which may be solid or liquid, preferably liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), and volatile or non-volatile.

[0059] The non-amino silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in oil, wax, resin or gum form; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0060] Silicones are notably described in detail in Walter Noll’sChemistry and Technology of Silicones(1968), Academic Press.

[0061] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure) and in particular from:

[0062] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as

[0063] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhodia;

[0064] - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the chemical structure:

[0065] Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide;

[0066] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-based organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of oxy-1,1’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0067] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10-6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0068] Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32 - Todd & ByersVolatile silicone fluids for cosmetics; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone.

[0069] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes including in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups.

[0070] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, notably polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0071] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes including:

[0072] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups optionally including C6-C24alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet®L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide; or alternatively (C12)alkylmethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200;

[0073] - thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;

[0074] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax®2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;

[0075] - hydroxylated groups, for instance polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function;

[0076] - acyloxyalkyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732;

[0077] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186 507, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; or else of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil®S201 and Abil®S255.

[0078] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:

[0079] - the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0080] - the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;

[0081] - the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2 / s;

[0082] - the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0083] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA: dimethiconol), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

[0084] In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(C1-C20)dialkylsiloxanes.

[0085] Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:

[0086] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane with a hydroxy-terminated chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by the company Dow Corning.

[0087] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1×10-5to 5×10-2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0088] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names:

[0089] - the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

[0090] - the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

[0091] - the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

[0092] - the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

[0093] - the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;

[0094] - certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0095] The non-amino silicones that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

[0096] Amino silicones

[0097] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones.

[0098] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more amino silicones.

[0099] The term “amino silicone” denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0100] The amino silicones that may be used according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile and cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5 × 10-6to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1 × 10-5to 1 m2 / s.

[0101] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen, alone or as mixtures, from the following compounds:

[0102] A) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (I):

[0103] in which x’ and y’ are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 g / mol;

[0104] B) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (II):

[0105] R’aG(3-a)-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR’(2-b))m-OSiG(3-a’)R’a’(II)

[0106] in which:

[0107] - G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH, C1-C8alkyl, for example methyl, or C1-C8alkoxy, for example methoxy, group;

[0108] - a and a’, which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one from among a and a’ is equal to zero,

[0109] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0110] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and

[0111] - R’, which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amine group chosen from the following groups: -NR’’-Q-N(R’’)2, -N(R’’)2, -N+(R’’)3A-, -N+H(R’’)2A-, -N+H2(R’’) A-, -NR’’-Q-N+(R’’)H2A-, -NR’’-Q-N+(R’’)2H A-and -NR’’-Q-N+(R’’)3A-, in which R’’, which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C20alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A-represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, notably a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0112] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (II) may be chosen from:

[0113] (i) the “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (III):

[0114] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;

[0115] (ii) the silicones of formula (IV) below:

[0116] in which:

[0117] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0118] - R1, R2and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1to R3denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0119] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0120] The hydroxy / alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0121] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g / mol;

[0122] (iii) the silicones of formula (V) below:

[0123] in which:

[0124] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0125] - R1and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1or R2denoting an alkoxy radical.

[0126] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0127] The hydroxy / alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0128] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000 g / mol, more preferentially from 5000 to 100 000 g / mol and in particular from 10 000 to 50 000 g / mol.

[0129] The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones, the structure of which is different from formula (IV) or (V). A product containing amino silicones of structure (IV) is sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652. A product containing amino silicones of structure (V) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing amino silicones of structure (XIV) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0130] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, notably as amino silicones of formula (V), use is made of microemulsions of which the mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker;

[0131] (iv) the silicones of formula (VI) below:

[0132] in which:

[0133] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and

[0134] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0135] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000 g / mol.

[0136] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning;

[0137] (v) the silicones of formula (VII) below:

[0138] in which:

[0139] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; and

[0140] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0141] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200 000 g / mol.

[0142] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning;

[0143] C) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (VIII):

[0144] in which:

[0145] - R5represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl or C2-C18alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

[0146] - R6represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C1-C18alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

[0147] - Q-is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;

[0148] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

[0149] and

[0150] - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50;

[0151] D) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX):

[0152] in which:

[0153] - R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl radical, a C2-C18alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0154] - R6represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a C1-C18alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example C1-C8, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

[0155] - R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18alkyl radical, a C2-C18alkenyl radical or a radical -R6-NHCOR7;

[0156] - X-is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate; and

[0157] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.

[0158] These silicones are for example described in patent application EP-A-0 530 974; mention may in particular be made of the silicone having the INCI name: Quaternium 80.

[0159] Silicones falling within this category are the silicones sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474;

[0160] E) the amino silicones of formula (X):

[0161] in which:

[0162] - R1, R2, R3and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0163] - R5denotes a C1-C4alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

[0164] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0165] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0166] - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0167] F) the multiblock polyoxyalkylene amino silicones, of (AB)ntype, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block including at least one amine group.

[0168] Said silicones are preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formulae:

[0169] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R’’)-R’-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R’-N(H)-R-] or

[0170] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R’’)-R’-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]

[0171] in which:

[0172] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0173] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

[0174] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0175] - R’’ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0176] - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R denote a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and

[0177] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R’, which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R’ denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0178] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.

[0179] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0180] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 g / mol and more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000 g / mol.

[0181] Mention may notably be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive;

[0182] G) the amino silicones of formulae (XI) and (XII):

[0183] in which:

[0184] - R, R’ and R’’, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

[0185] - A denotes a C3alkylene radical; and

[0186] - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000;

[0187] in which:

[0188] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0189] - R1and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0190] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0191] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0192] Preferably, R1and R2are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R1and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0193] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII):

[0194] - x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000;

[0195] - y ranges from 1 to 100;

[0196] - A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and notably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0197] - R1and R2independently are saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; notably chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R1and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0198] A silicone of formula (XII) that is preferred is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive;

[0199] H) polysiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes, including primary amine groups at only one chain end or on side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

[0200] In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55 000.

[0201] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin-Etsu.

[0202] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.

[0203] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0204] In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50 000.

[0205] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), mention may be made of the aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

[0206] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to formula (XVIII) below:

[0207] in which:

[0208] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better still between 50 and 80;

[0209] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better still between 1 and 5;

[0210] - R’’’, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals possibly being optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl OH groups;

[0211] - R’ is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0212] - R’’ is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0213] Preferably, the radicals R’’’, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl radicals; preferentially, the radicals R’’’, which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated linear alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, which are notably C13, C14or C15radicals, alone or as a mixture, and better still represent a mixture of C13, C14and C15radicals.

[0214] Preferably, the radicals R’’’ are identical.

[0215] Preferably, R’ is a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; notably a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or –CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical.

[0216] Preferably, R’’ is a linear divalent alkylene radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.

[0217] Preferentially, the composition comprises one or more amino silicones chosen, alone or as mixtures, from:

[0218] (i) the amino silicones of formula (II) as defined previously, and

[0219] (ii) the amino silicones of formula (XVIII) as defined previously.

[0220] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more amino silicones, preferentially one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0221] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0222] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0223] - R’’’, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0224] - R’ is a divalent alkylene radical containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0225] - R’’ is a linear divalent alkylene radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0226] More preferentially, the composition comprises one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0227] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0228] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0229] - R’’’, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0230] - R’ is a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical, and

[0231] - R’’ is a -(CH2)2- radical.

[0232] A most particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may notably be made of the silicone sold under the name Dowsil 8500 Conditioning Agent by Dow.

[0233] In another preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more amino silicones of formula (II) as defined previously, preferentially one or more amino silicones of formula (II) in which G denotes a C1-C8 alkyl and a = a' = 0; a most particularly preferred silicone of formula (II) being aminopropyl dimethicone, such as the product sold under the names X-22-9686 and KF-8015 by Shin-Etsu.

[0234] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0235] - at least one silicone chosen from the amino silicones of formula (XVIII) above, notably those in which n is a number of between 50 and 80; m is a number of between 1 and 5; R’’’, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R’ is a –(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or –CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical, and R’’ is a –(CH2)2- radical, more preferentially Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone, and

[0236] - at least one silicone chosen from the amino silicones of formula (II) above, preferably those in which G denotes a C1-C8 alkyl and a = a’ = 0; a most particularly preferred silicone of formula (II) being aminopropyl dimethicone, such as the product sold under the name X-22-9686 by Shin-Etsu.

[0237] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise the silicone(s) in a total content preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferentially from 0.7% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0238] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more amino silicones in a total content preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.7% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0239] Even more advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amino silicone of formula (II) and / or at least one amino silicone of formula (XVIII), the total amino silicone content preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferentially from 0.7% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Better still, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amino silicone of formula (II) and at least one amino silicone of formula (XVIII), the total amino silicone content preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferentially from 0.7% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Non-silicone solid fatty substances

[0240] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-silicone solid fatty substances.

[0241] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing any Si-O bonds.

[0242] The term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, preferentially greater than or equal to 30°C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 105Pa).

[0243] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0244] The solid fatty substances may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, butters, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0245] The term “fatty acid” means a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferentially comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acids that may be used in the present invention are notably chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Said fatty acids are different from the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms described previously.

[0246] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated, and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0247] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0248] - myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

[0249] - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

[0250] - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);

[0251] - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

[0252] - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

[0253] - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

[0254] - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

[0255] - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);

[0256] - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0257] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol; better still, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0258] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from the esters derived from a C9-C26 fatty carboxylic acid and / or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol, more preferentially esters derived from a C9-C26 fatty carboxylic acid and from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0259] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0260] Use may also be made of esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and of esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0261] Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, C9-C26 alkyl stearates (notably myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate), octyl pelargonate, C9-C26 alkyl myristates (notably cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate and stearyl myristate), diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, C9-C26 alkyl palmitates (notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate) and mixtures thereof, for instance the compounds having the INCI name “cetyl esters”.

[0262] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from the solid esters of a fatty acid and of a fatty alcohol, and more preferentially from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof. The esters having the INCI name “cetyl esters” are particularly preferred.

[0263] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter” (also referred to as “pasty fatty substance”) means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state and including, at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a starting melting temperature above 25°C and an end melting temperature below 60°C.

[0264] Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: JUN 15, 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0265] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter orBassia madhuca longifoliabutter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.

[0266] Shea butter constitutes an example of a preferred butter. In a known way, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also known as “kernels” or “nuts”) of theButyrospermum parkiitree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% of fat, which is extracted and which is generally refined.

[0267] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

[0268] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0269] Mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork fibre or sugarcane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0270] Mention may also be made of C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0271] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0272] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0273] The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.

[0274] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

[0275] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

[0276] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance ozokerite, lignite, petroleum jelly or paraffin wax; plant waxes, for instance cork fibre wax or sugar cane wax, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0277] Ceramides or ceramide analogs, such as glycoceramides, that may used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0278] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula:

[0279] in which:

[0280] - R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0281] - R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0282] - R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups;

[0283] it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also denote a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid.

[0284] Preferentially, ceramides are used for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0285] The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear C15 group.

[0286] Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22hydrocarbon-based radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3group.

[0287] Mention may also be made, as compounds which are particularly preferred, of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.

[0288] Preferably, the non-silicone solid fatty substances are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, butters and mixtures thereof.

[0289] Even more preferentially, the non-silicone solid fatty substances are chosen from cetearyl alcohol, the compounds having the INCI name “cetyl esters”, shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0290] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-silicone solid fatty substance(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0291] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the solid fatty alcohol(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0292] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the solid ester(s) of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises the solid ester(s) of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0293] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the butter(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Cationic surfactants

[0294] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants. The cationic surfactant(s) are different from the fatty substances. Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-O groups.

[0295] They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0296] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following compounds, which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0297] - the compounds corresponding to the general formula (II) below: (II)

[0298] in which:

[0299] X-is an anion notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;

[0300] the groups R1to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R1to R4denoting a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0301] The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0302] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), the ones that are preferred are tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts such as those sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.

[0303] It is preferred in particular to use the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds;

[0304] - the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): (III)

[0305] in which R5represents an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R6represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7represents a C1-C4alkyl group, R8represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4alkyl group, X-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0306] Preferably, R5and R6denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7denotes a methyl group and R8denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0307] Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

[0308] - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (IV): (IV)

[0309] in which:

[0310] R9denotes an alkyl radical including from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,

[0311] R10is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a)(R10a)(R11a)N-(CH2)3, with R9a, R10a, R11a, R11, R12, R13and R14, which may be identical or different, chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0312] X-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates and (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0313] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75);

[0314] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V) below: (V)

[0315] in which:

[0316] R15is chosen from C1-C6alkyl groups and C1-C6hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

[0317] R16is chosen from the group R19-C(O)-; groups R20which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22hydrocarbon-based groups; a hydrogen atom;

[0318] R18is chosen from the group R21-C(O)-; groups R22which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6hydrocarbon-based groups; a hydrogen atom;

[0319] R17, R19and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21hydrocarbon-based groups;

[0320] r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers having values from 2 to 6;

[0321] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0322] x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers having a value from 0 to 10;

[0323] X-is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;

[0324] with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R16denotes R20, and that when z is 0 then R18denotes R22.

[0325] The alkyl groups R15may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R15denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0326] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

[0327] When R16is a hydrocarbon-based group R20, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0328] When R18is a hydrocarbon-based group R22, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0329] Advantageously, R17, R19and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0330] Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0331] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0332] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0333] The anion X-is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function. The anion X-is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0334] In the composition according to the invention, use may be made more particularly of the ammonium salts of formula (V) in which R15denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2;

[0335] R16is chosen from the group R19-C(O)-, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22hydrocarbon-based groups, and a hydrogen atom;

[0336] R18is chosen from the group R21-C(O)- and a hydrogen atom;

[0337] R17, R19and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0338] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

[0339] Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of formula (V) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (notably chloride or methyl sulfate), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0340] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0341] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

[0342] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.

[0343] Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

[0344] Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

[0345] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0346] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

[0347] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof and comprising at least one C6-C30and preferably C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0348] Preferably, the fatty amines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0349] Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0350] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0351] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0352] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0353] Among the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (VI) below:

[0354] RCONHR’’N(R’)2(VI)

[0355] in which:

[0356] - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29and preferably C7-C23alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29and preferably C7-C23alkenyl radical;

[0357] - R’’ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0358] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0359] The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, notably the product sold by the company Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyldimethylamine, soyamidopropyldimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, minkamidopropyldimethylamine, oatamidopropyldimethylamine, sesamidopropyldimethylamine, tallamidopropyldimethylamine, olivamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0360] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0361] The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI) and mixtures thereof; better still from those of formula (II) and / or of formula (VI); even better still from those of formula (II).

[0362] Preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0363] Even more preferentially, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof, better still behenyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0364] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one cationic surfactant.

[0365] When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0366] When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from those of formula (II) in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0367] When it is present, the total content of behenyltrimethylammonium chloride in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Associative polymer

[0368] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more associative polymers.

[0369] “Associative polymers” are polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules.

[0370] Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

[0371] The term “hydrophobic group” means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0372] Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group originates from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.

[0373] The associative polymers may be of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.

[0374] Preferably, the associative polymers according to the invention are of nonionic nature.

[0375] The nonionic associative polymers that may be used in the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0376] (1) celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain. Mention may be made, by way of example, of:

[0377] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for instance the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls) or Polysurf 67 CS sold by the company Ashland, or the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel,

[0378] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol (C8-C22)alkylphenol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol;

[0379] (2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain), sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain), sold by the company Rhodia Chimie;

[0380] (3) inulins modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as inulin alkyl carbamates and in particular the inulin lauryl carbamate sold by the company Orafti under the name Inutec SPI;

[0381] (4) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers, of which mention may be made, by way of example, of:

[0382] - the products Antaron V216 or Ganex V216 (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P.

[0383] - the products Antaron V220 or Ganex V220 (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P.;

[0384] (5) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers including at least one fatty chain, for instance the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208;

[0385] (6) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers including at least one fatty chain, for instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer;

[0386] (7) polyurethane polyethers including, in their chain, both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences;

[0387] (8) polymers with an aminoplast ether backbone bearing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix compounds sold by the company Süd-Chemie.

[0388] Preferably, the nonionic associative polyurethane polyethers according to the invention include at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms which are separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being side chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more side chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may include a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

[0389] The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or starburst polymers.

[0390] The fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylenated chain including from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. The nonionic polyurethane polyethers include a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence the origin of the name.

[0391] By extension, also included among the fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

[0392] As examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of Rheolate 205 containing a urea function, sold by the company Elementis, or Rheolate 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184.

[0393] Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210 containing a C12-C14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212 containing a C18 alkyl chain, from Akzo.

[0394] The product DW 1206B from Röhm & Haas containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.

[0395] Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, notably in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Elementis. Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Röhm & Haas.

[0396] The polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).

[0397] In one variant, use is made of a nonionic associative polyurethane polyether that can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 100 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate.

[0398] Such a polymer is notably sold by the company Elementis under the name Rheolate FX 1100®, which is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and of hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), with a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of 30 000 (INCI name: PEG-136 / Steareth-100 / HDI Copolymer).

[0399] According to another variant, use may also be made of a polyurethane polyether that can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0400] Such polyurethane polyethers are notably sold by the company Röhm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46 and Aculyn 44 [Aculyn 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol (PEG) containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0401] Preferably, the associative polymers as described above have a number-average molecular mass of less than 500 000 and even more preferentially less than 100 000, preferably ranging from 5000 to 80 000, which can be measured by methods such as cryoscopy, osmotic pressure, ebullioscopy or end group titration.

[0402] The nonionic associative polymer(s) according to the invention are preferably chosen from polyurethane polyethers of family (7), in particular those that can obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0403] Even more particularly, the nonionic associative polymer(s) used in the invention are) chosen from the polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) sold under the name Aculyn 44, or the polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) sold under the name Aculyn 46, and mixtures thereof.

[0404] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more associative polymers, better still one or more nonionic associative polymers.

[0405] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises the nonionic associative polymer(s) in a total amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.08% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0406] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the nonionic associative polyurethane polyether(s) of family (7) in a total amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.08% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Cationic polymers

[0407] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic polymers.

[0408] The term “cationic polymer” denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0409] The cationic polymers that may be employed preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better still of less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0410] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0411] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5×106approximately and preferably between 103and 3×106approximately.

[0412] The cationic polymers that may be employed are preferably non-associative.

[0413] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made of:

[0414] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae:

[0415] in which:

[0416] - R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3radical;

[0417] - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0418] - R4, R5and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0419] - R1and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0420] - X-denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0421] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0422] Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:

[0423] - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

[0424] - copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

[0425] - the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

[0426] - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937,

[0427] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0428] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;

[0429] - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP;

[0430] - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. Mention may notably be made of the compound having the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

[0431] (2) cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.

[0432] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0433] The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. Mention may notably be made of the compound having the INCI name Polyquaternium-10. These polymers are sold under the names Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.

[0434] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4 131 576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may be made most particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, the quaternizing agent notably possibly being diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0435] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

[0436] The cationic galactomannan gums are notably described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, notably those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, notably trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).

[0437] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0438] Mention may be made in particular of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Solvay.

[0439] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, notably those including quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0440] (3) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0441] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.

[0442] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

[0443] (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.

[0444] (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):

[0445] in which

[0446] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

[0447] - R12denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0448] - R10and R11, independently of each other, denote a C1-C6alkyl group, a C1-C5hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10and R11may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10and R11, independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4alkyl group;

[0449] - Y-is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0450] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) (INCI name polyquaternium-6) for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name polyquaternium-7), notably sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.

[0451] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:

[0452] in which:

[0453] - R13, R14, R15and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals;

[0454] or else R13, R14, R15and R16, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom;

[0455] or else R13, R14, R15and R16represent a linear or branched C1-C6alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0456] - A1and B1represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0457] - X-denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

[0458] it being understood that A1, R13and R15can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

[0459] in addition, if A1denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:

[0460] a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0461] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;

[0462] c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;

[0463] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0464] Preferably, X-is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.

[0465] Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

[0466] in which R1, R2, R3and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0467] A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is the one for which R1, R2, R3and R4represent a methyl radical, n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

[0468] (9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

[0469] in which:

[0470] - R18, R19, R20and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20and R21do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0471] - r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

[0472] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0473] - X-denotes an anion such as a halide,

[0474] - A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0475] Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.

[0476] (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

[0477] (11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.

[0478] (12) polymers including in their structure:

[0479] (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

[0480] (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:

[0481] In other words, these polymers may notably be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

[0482] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0483] These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.

[0484] The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g / mol.

[0485] The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF; for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0486] Preferably, the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides of the family (1) as defined above, notably the compound having the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.

[0487] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers.

[0488] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.06% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0489] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises the homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides of the family (1) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.06% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Non-associative nonionic polysaccharides

[0490] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-associative nonionic polysaccharides.

[0491] The nonionic polysaccharides are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from celluloses, starches, galactomannans and nonionic derivatives thereof, notably ethers or esters thereof.

[0492] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. Mention may be made, as physical treatment, of the temperature and mention may be made, as chemical treatment, of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions, in so far as these treatments make it possible to give polymers that are nonionic.

[0493] As galactomannans that may be used, mention may be made of nonionic guar gums which can be modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl groups, notably hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0494] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0495] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0496] Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0497] The botanical origin of the starch molecules that may be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch. The starches may be chemically or physically modified, notably by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

[0498] The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, notably such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. Use may also be made of the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0499] The nonionic polysaccharides may also be cellulose-based polymers not including a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.

[0500] According to the invention, the term “cellulose-based” polymer refers to any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together by β-1,4 bonds; the cellulose-based polymers may be unsubstituted celluloses, and / or derivatives of nonionic celluloses.

[0501] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ethers-esters are distinguished.

[0502] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers that may be mentioned are (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0503] Preferably, the non-associative nonionic polysaccharides are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from galactomannans and nonionic derivatives thereof, notably ethers thereof; and better still, alone or as a mixture, from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl, notably hydroxypropyl groups (INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Guar).

[0504] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-associative nonionic polysaccharide.

[0505] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises the non-associative nonionic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.08% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0506] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises the nonionic polysaccharide(s) chosen from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl groups, and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.08% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Nonionic surfactants

[0507] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.

[0508] Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

[0509] - oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols;

[0510] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C40alcohols, preferably including one or two fatty chains;

[0511] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8to C30fatty acid amides;

[0512] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8to C30acids and of polyethylene glycols;

[0513] - preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8to C30acids and of sorbitol;

[0514] - fatty acid esters of sucrose;

[0515] - optionally oxyalkylenated alkyl (poly)glycosides (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) which may comprise from 1 to 15 glucose units;

[0516] - saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;

[0517] - condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide;

[0518] - N-(C8-C30)alkylglucamine and N-(C8-C30)acylmethylglucamine derivatives;

[0519] - amine oxides.

[0520] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

[0521] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges notably from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.

[0522] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units.

[0523] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, notably from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50.

[0524] As examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8to C40alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.

[0525] Mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

[0526] Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C8to C10alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10to C12alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.

[0527] Nonionic surfactants of alkyl (poly)glycoside type may notably be represented by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0528] - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 6 to 24 carbon atoms and notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical of which the linear or branched alkyl radical includes 6 to 24 carbon atoms and notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

[0529] - R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0530] - G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0531] - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4;

[0532] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.

[0533] Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

[0534] - R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical including from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

[0535] - R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0536] - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

[0537] - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose,

[0538] - it being possible for the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, to range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.

[0539] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / C16 alkyl (poly)glucosides of 1-4 type, and notably decyl glucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.

[0540] Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 110 and Oramix® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or the products sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK.

[0541] Preferably, use is made of C8 / C16 alkyl (poly)glycosides of 1-4 type, notably as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

[0542] The nonionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0543] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8to C40alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and preferably including one or two fatty chains;

[0544] - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils comprising from 1 to 100 and preferably from 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide;

[0545] - (C8-C30)alkyl (poly)glycosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably with from 0 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units;

[0546] - monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8to C40alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol;

[0547] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8to C30fatty acid amides;

[0548] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8to C30acids and of polyethylene glycols;

[0549] - preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8to C30acids and of sorbitol.

[0550] More preferentially, the nonionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0551] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8to C40alcohols comprising from 1 to 150 mol and preferably from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide and including one or two fatty chains, more preferentially at least one C8-C20 and better still C10-C18 alkyl chain; the product having the INCI name Steareth-100 is particularly preferred;

[0552] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8to C30acids and of sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylenated; and

[0553] - (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 0 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0554] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.

[0555] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises the nonionic surfactant(s) in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.15% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0556] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8to C40alcohols comprising from 1 to 150 mol and preferably from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and including one or two fatty chains, more preferentially at least one C8-C20 and better still C10-C18 alkyl chain, in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.15% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.Polyols

[0557] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polyols.

[0558] The polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from the polyols of formula (B) below: (B)

[0559] in which formula (B):

[0560] - R'1, R'2, R'3 and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl radical or a C1 to C6 mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical,

[0561] - A denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms but no hydroxyl group, and

[0562] - m denotes 0 or 1.

[0563] The polyol(s) are preferably chosen from the polyols of formula (B) in which m has the value 0, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol), caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), 1,2,3-propanetriol, pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol), 1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3-butanediol, glycerol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.

[0564] The polyol(s) may also be chosen from the polyols of formula (B), in which m is 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3 and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1 to C6 alkyl radical and mixtures thereof. They may advantageously be chosen from polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the product known as PEG-6 or PEG-8 in the CTFA publication (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Seventh Edition).

[0565] The polyol(s) may also be chosen from polyols of formula (B) in which m is 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3 and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1 to C6 alkyl radical, and in which the molecular weight is less than 200, and mixtures thereof. According to this particular embodiment, the polyol(s) are preferably chosen from 3-methyl-1,3,5-pentanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol) and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from hexylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol and mixtures thereof.

[0566] Preferably, the molecular weight (MW) of said polyol(s) present in the composition of the invention is between 50 and 350, more preferentially between 60 and 200 and better still between 70 and 150.

[0567] Preferably, the polyol(s) are chosen from diols, glycerol and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from compounds of formula (B) in which R'1, R'2, R'3 and R'4, which may be identical or different, denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1 to C6 alkyl radical, glycerol and mixtures thereof.

[0568] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol), caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol), 2,3-butanediol, polyethylene glycols, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is glycerine or propylene glycol and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the polyol is glycerol.

[0569] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols, preferentially glycerol and / or propylene glycol, alone or as a mixture.

[0570] When they are present, the total content of the polyol(s) preferably ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.8% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0571] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises glycerol in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.8% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Cinnamic acid derivative:

[0572] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one compound of formula (C) below: (C)

[0573] in which R1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal ion, a linear or branched C1 to C20, preferably C1 to C10 and more preferentially C1 to C4 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C2 to C20 alkenyl radical or a linear or branched C2 to C20 alkynyl radical;

[0574] R2 and R3, which may be identical to or different from each other, represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C20, preferably C1 to C10 and more preferentially C1 to C4 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C2 to C20 alkenyl radical or a linear or branched C2 to C20 alkynyl radical, and also salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical and / or geometrical isomers thereof.

[0575] Preferably, R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C10 alkyl radical.

[0576] Preferentially, R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C4 alkyl radical.

[0577] More preferentially, R1 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0578] Preferably, R2 and R3, which may be identical to or different from each other, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C10 alkyl radical.

[0579] Preferentially, R2 and R3, which may be identical to or different from each other, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C4 alkyl radical.

[0580] More preferentially, R2 and R3 are different from each other and represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C4 alkyl radical.

[0581] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound of formula (C) is ferulic acid in which R1 represents a hydrogen atom, R2 represents a hydrogen atom and R3 represents a methyl group, or a derivative thereof.

[0582] Ferulic acid is a cinnamic acid derivative (4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid) which may be present in many seeds such as rice, wheat or oat, but also coffee, apples, artichokes, peanuts, oranges and pineapples.

[0583] The term “ferulic acid derivatives” notably refers to the esters and / or salts thereof and / or to plant extracts containing same. Use will preferably be made of the esters.

[0584] Ferulic acid esters that may notably be mentioned include esters of ferulic acid and of C1-C4 alcohols, in particular methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate and isopropyl ferulate.

[0585] Ferulic acid salts that may notably be mentioned include organic salts of ferulic acid, in particular the sodium salts (e.g.: sodium ferulate and sodium isoferulate).

[0586] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a compound of formula (C); better still, the composition comprises ferulic acid.

[0587] The compound of formula (C) is advantageously present in a content of between 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Additional compounds

[0588] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, notably in a concentration preferably ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, for example from 55% to 90% by weight, notably from 60% to 85% by weight, better still from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0589] The pH of the composition may be between 2 and 8, preferentially between 3 and 7, or even between 3 and 5.

[0590] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents other than the polyols described previously, which are liquid at 25°C and 1 atm, and are preferably hydrophilic (water-soluble or water-miscible), which may be chosen from C1-C6 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, and C3-C7 polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent other than polyols is chosen from C1-C6 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols. It may advantageously be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.Additives

[0591] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients other than the compounds described previously, notably chosen from non-silicone liquid fatty substances, gelling agents; film-forming polymers, fixing polymers, sunscreens; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair-relaxing agents; nacreous agents and opacifiers; micas, nacres, glitter flakes; plasticizers or coalescers; pigments; fillers; fragrances; basifying or acidifying agents; and preserving agents. A person skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients included in the composition, and also the amounts thereof, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0592] In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio between the total content of non-silicone solid fatty substance(s) and the total content of silicone(s) is between 1 and 9, more preferentially between 5 and 8.

[0593] More preferentially, the weight ratio between the total content of non-silicone solid fatty substance(s) and the total content of amino silicone(s) is less than or equal to 10, preferentially between 1 and 9, more preferentially between 5 and 8.

[0594] In another preferred embodiment, the total amount of solid or liquid, silicone or non-silicone fatty substance(s) is less than or equal to 10, preferentially less than or equal to 9.

[0595] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, comprises:

[0596] - at least 0.5% by weight of one or more compounds of amino acid type chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof, notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof; preferentially chosen from glycine, salts thereof, notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof;

[0597] preferably in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.6% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.7% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.9% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0598] - at least 0.5% by weight of one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids chosen from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and salts thereof, notably of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals; most particularly citric acid or salts thereof, notably of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, such as sodium citrate;

[0599] preferably in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight or even from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0600] - one or more amino silicones chosen from:

[0601] the amino silicones of formula (II) above, in which G denotes a C1-C8 alkyl and a = a’ = 0; and the amino silicones of formula (XVIII) above in which n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R’’’, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R’ is a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or –CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical, and R’’ is a -(CH2)2- radical, better still a mixture of said amino silicones of the preceding formulae (II) and (XVIII);

[0602] preferably in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.7% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0603] - one or more non-silicone solid fatty substances chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, butters and mixtures thereof, more preferentially a mixture of cetearyl alcohol, of compounds having the INCI name “cetyl esters” and of shea butter;

[0604] preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0605] - optionally one or more cationic surfactants chosen from those of formula (II), preferably from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof, better still behenyltrimethylammonium chloride;

[0606] preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0607] - optionally one or more nonionic associative polymers, chosen from polyurethane polyethers of family (7), which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate;

[0608] preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.08% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0609] - optionally one or more cationic polymers chosen from homopolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae:

[0610] as defined previously;

[0611] preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.06% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0612] - optionally one or more non-associative nonionic polysaccharides chosen from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl groups;

[0613] preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.08% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0614] - optionally one or more nonionic surfactants, preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8to C40alcohols comprising from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and including at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain;

[0615] preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.15% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0616] - optionally one or more polyols, preferably chosen from glycerol and propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;

[0617] preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.8% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0618] - optionally ferulic acid or a derivative thereof, preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0619] The cosmetic composition according to the invention notably finds a particularly advantageous application in the hair sector, notably for cleansing and / or conditioning the hair. The hair compositions are preferably shampoos or hair conditioners; advantageously; the composition according to the invention is in the form of a hair conditioner, notably a conditioning shampoo, or a mask that can be rinsed off.

[0620] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed off after having been applied to the keratin materials, notably to the hair. It is thus optionally possible to perform rinsing, for example with water, after an optional leave-on time. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is rinsed off after a leave-on time.

[0621] A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process, notably a hair treatment process, in particular for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibres, notably the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, preferably followed by rinsing, after a leave-on time.

[0622] Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular for washing and / or conditioning sensitized, embrittled and / or damaged hair.

[0623] In particular, it may be a cosmetic treatment process for strengthening hair that is notably sensitized, embrittled and / or damaged.

[0624] It may also be a process for limiting the loss of sheen of the hair, notably sensitized, embrittled and / or damaged hair.

[0625] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0626] In the examples that follow, all the amounts are given, unless otherwise indicated, as mass percentages of active material (g% AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.Example 1

[0627] The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients shown in the tables below (g% AM):

[0628] A1 (invention)B (comparative)Cetyl esters1.21.2Cetearyl alcohol5.55.5Butyrospermum parkii(shea) butter0.40.4Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG-amodimethicone10.55Hydroxypropyl guar0.20.2PEG-150 / decyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer0.180.18Propylene glycol0.20.2Polyquaternium-370.070.07Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate0.050.05PPG-1 Trideceth-60.010.01Steareth-1000.250.25Behentrimonium chloride2.82.8Isopropyl alcohol0.60.6Citric acid33Glycine11Potassium hydroxide0.80.8Glycerol11Fragrance0.90.9Ferulic acid0.50.5Glycolic acid0.080.08Preserving agentsqsqsWaterqs 100qs 100Non-silicone solid FS7.1%7.1%Amino silicone1%0.55%Non-silicone solid FS / amino silicone ratio7.112.9

[0629] FS means “fatty substances”.

[0630] Visual observation: sheen criterion

[0631] Compositions A1 and B were tested on locks of AS40 hair (2.7 g / 27 cm) previously washed with a DOP shampoo (0.75 g of shampoo per 2.7 g of hair). Compositions A1 and B were applied at a rate of 1.25 g of composition per 2.7 g of hair; the locks were then rinsed and then dried with a hairdryer for about 3 minutes (at a temperature of 50-90°C, minimum distance of 15 cm), so as to obtain a dry lock.

[0632] Seven experts performed a visual observation of the locks of hair, and compared the two locks under blind conditions, giving a score ranging from 0 to 5, in increments of 0.5.

[0633] A score of 5 means that the locks are very shiny, whereas a score of 0 means that the locks are not at all shiny.

[0634] The results are collated in Table 2 below.

[0635] CompositionA1 (invention)B (comparative)Expert 154Expert 253Expert 34.53.5Expert 44.54Expert 543.5Expert 64.53.5Expert 743Mean4.53.5

[0636] The experts observed that composition A1 according to the invention left the hair visibly very shiny.

[0637] On the other hand, the hair treated with the comparative composition B was significantly less shiny.Example 2

[0638] The following composition according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients shown in the tables below (g% AM):

[0639] A2 (invention)Cetyl esters1.2Cetearyl Alcohol5.5Butyrospermum parkii(shea) butter0.4Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG-amodimethicone0.45Isododecane0.45Aminopropyl dimethicone0.55Hydroxypropyl guar0.2PEG-150 / decyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer0.18Propylene glycol0.2Polyquaternium-370.07Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate0.05PPG-1 Trideceth-60.01Steareth-1000.25Behentrimonium chloride2.8Isopropyl alcohol0.6Citric acid3Glycine1Potassium hydroxide0.8Glycerol1Fragrance0.9Ferulic acid0.5Glycolic acid0.08Preserving agentsqsWaterqs 100

[0640] Composition A2 is in the form of a cream which can advantageously be used as a mask, after shampoo washing, and rinsed off after a leave-on time of a few minutes.

[0641] This composition can be used for disentangling the hair, affording sheen and smoothness. In addition, the composition is readily applied to damp hair and has good hair transformation performance.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, preferably a hair composition, comprising:- one or more compounds of amino acid type, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,- one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,- one or more amino silicones chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:(i) aminopropyl dimethicone, and(ii) the amino silicones of formula (XVIII): in which:- n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better still between 50 and 80;- m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better still between 1 and 5;- R’’’, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals possibly being optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl OH groups;- R’ is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;- R’’ is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms,- one or more non-silicone solid fatty substances,it being understood that the weight ratio between the total content of non-silicone solid fatty substance(s) and the total content of amino silicone(s) is less than or equal to 10.2.Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising one or more compounds of amino acid type chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (A) and / or salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, or zinc salts: (A)in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:- when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, it being possible for this ring to be substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1-C4)alkyl;- when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C12)alkyl and preferably (C1-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from –S–, –NH– or –C(NH)– and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2or –NH–C(NH)–NH2.3.Composition according to either of the preceding claims, comprising one or more compounds of amino acid type chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (A) and / or salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, or zinc salts: (A)in which p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with an –S– heteroatom and / or optionally substituted with one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or –NH–C(NH)–NH2; better still, p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.4.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) of amino acid type are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof, notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof; preferentially chosen from glycine, salts thereof, notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts, and mixtures thereof.5.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.6% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.7% to 5% by weight or even from 0.8% to 3% by weight and better still from 0.9% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.6.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising four to six carbon atoms, one to three OH groups and two to three COOH groups; and / or salts thereof, notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts; preferably chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts; most particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid and also salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; better still citric acid or salts thereof, notably alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.7.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or salts thereof, ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight, notably from 1% to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 6% by weight or even from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.8.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio between the total content of non-silicone solid fatty substance(s) and the total content of amino silicone(s) is preferentially between 1 and 9, more preferentially between 5 and 8.9.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amino silicones chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:(i) aminopropyl dimethicone, and(ii) the amino silicones of formula (XVIII): in which n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R’’’, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R’ is a –(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or –CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical, and R’’ is a –(CH2)2- radical, most particularly Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (INCI name).10.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of silicone(s) ranges from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.6% to 3% by weight and more preferentially from 0.7% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.11.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-silicone solid fatty substances chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, butters, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof, notably from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, butters and mixtures thereof.12.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of non-silicone solid fatty substance(s) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, better still from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.13.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactant, preferably chosen from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium, preferentially from dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group includes from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, better still behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.14.Composition according to Claim 13, in which the total content of cationic surfactants ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.15.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more associative polymers, preferably nonionic associative polymers, preferentially chosen from polyurethane polyethers of family (7), in particular those which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.16.Composition according to Claim 15, in which the total content of the associative polymers, preferably nonionic associative polymers, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, notably from 0.05% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.08% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.17.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic polymers, preferably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formula: in which:- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3radical;- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;- R4, R5and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;- R1and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;- X-denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide, and also mixtures thereof; in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.06% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.18.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-associative nonionic polysaccharides preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from celluloses, starches, galactomannans, and nonionic derivatives thereof, notably ethers or esters thereof, better still chosen from galactomannans, and nonionic derivatives thereof, notably ethers thereof, better still chosen from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with (poly)hydroxy(C1-C6)alkyl groups.19.Composition according to Claim 18, in which the total content of the nonionic associative polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.08% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.20.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8to C40alcohols comprising from 1 to 150 mol and preferably from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and including one or two fatty chains, more preferentially at least one C8-C20 and better still C10-C18 alkyl chain, in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.15% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.21.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more polyols, preferably chosen from glycerol and propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.8% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

22.

22. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one compound of formula (C) below:in which R1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal ion, a linear or branched C1 to C20, preferably C1 to C10 and more preferentially C1 to C4 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C2 to C20 alkenyl radical or a linear or branched C2 to C20 alkynyl radical;R2 and R3, which may be identical to or different from each other, represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 to C20, preferably C1 to C10 and more preferentially C1 to C4 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C2 to C20 alkenyl radical or a linear or branched C2 to C20 alkynyl radical, and also salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical and / or geometrical isomers thereof, preferably ferulic acid or a derivative thereof.23.Composition according to Claim 22, in which the total content of compound of formula (C) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.24.Cosmetic treatment process, notably a hair treatment process, in particular for conditioning keratin fibres, notably the hair, comprising the application to said fibres of a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, preferably followed by rinsing, after an optional leave-on time.25.Process according to Claim 24, for strengthening hair which is notably sensitized, embrittled and / or damaged and / or for limiting the loss of sheen of hair which is notably sensitized, embrittled and / or damaged.

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