Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition and use of a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition

Abstract

The present invention is directed to tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions, comprising (a) at least one emollient; (b) at least one solvent; (c) at least one pigment; (d) at least one filler; (e) at least one UV filter; (f) a fatty compound and polymer system; and (g) at least one surfactant.

Description

[0001] TINTED COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND USE OF A TINTED COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION

[0002] FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0003] The present invention is directed to tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions, comprising (a) at least one emollient; (b) at least one solvent; (c) at least one pigment; (d) at least one filler; (e) at least one UV filter; (f) a fatty compound and polymer system; and (g) at least one surfactant.

[0004] BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0005] The photoprotection of keratinous materials, is considered of great importance in order to protect from sun-damage, sunburn, photo-aging, as well as to decrease the chances of skin cancer development caused by exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) radiation.

[0006] The degree of UV protection afforded by a sunscreen composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein. Particularly, sunscreen compositions must provide good protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value, a desirable balance between UVA and UVB protection, particularly a minimum UVA protection factor, yet have satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel upon application.

[0007] Furthermore, it is also desirable to produce a sunscreen composition that not only confers photoprotection of keratinous materials, but also provides additional properties. For example, it is desired to produce a tinted sunscreen composition with high SPF and UVA / UVB protection, with the capability of providing make-up properties to the skin to correct imperfections, preferably with high coverage that is capable of suiting different skin tones.

[0008] The degree of coverage provided by a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, when applied to the skin, is directly related to the amount of pigments present in the composition.

[0009] Nevertheless, this combination of properties has been difficult to achieve, particularly because the presence of high amounts of pigments and UV filters in tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions results in stability issues in the formulation, especially the migration of the pigments to the surface of the composition, even creating discoloration spots on said surface.

[0010] It is even more difficult to achieve stable tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions with high SPF in the form of an inverted emulsion. Inverted emulsion technologies tend to have more issues related to UV filter availability and solubilization, which means that is more propense to crystallize the UV filters over time, losing effectiveness of the product. The present invention is related to W / O emulsion where dispersed water is contained in a continuous external oil phase.

[0011] Therefore, to meet the consumers need and overcome the drawbacks of the state of the art, it is desired a hybrid product, i.e., a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising make-up properties, high SPF, free of silicone, high coverage to the skin (high quantity of pigments) in order to provide a high color coverage payoff when applied to the skin, which is stable (not presenting migration and separation), providing sensory properties that are entirely satisfactory and pleasant.

[0012] The inventors of the present invention unexpected developed a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising the desired properties mentioned above, in the form of a stable inverted emulsion (W / O), comprising high amounts of UV filters and pigments, and a specific combination of emollients, solvents, fillers, structuring and film forming agents (fatty compounds and polymers) and surfactants, without silicones nor offensive UV filters, providing a high coverage on the skin (make-up properties), water resistance, creamy texture, light sensorially and natural / comfortable skin finish while preserving good sensorial attributes and stability.

[0013] The present invention aims to provide tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions with high SPF values, which allows a higher photoprotection of keratinous materials, particularly the skin, and capable of tinting the skin to correct imperfections, delivering good coverage and a natural and comfortable skin finish and avoiding transferring issues.

[0014] SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0015] The present invention is directed to new tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising (a) at least one emollient; (b) at least one solvent; (c) at least one pigment; (d) at least one filler; (e) at least one UV filter; (f) a fatty compound and polymer system; and (g) at least one surfactant, with high amounts of UV filters and pigments, providing a high coverage on the skin (make-up properties), water resistance, creamy texture, light sensorially and natural / comfortable skin finish while preserving good sensorial attributes and stability.

[0016] Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0017] Figures 1a to 1 d shows the microscopic analysis of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 1 submitted to the accelerated crystallization test.

[0018] Figure 2 shows the results of the centrifuge test for evaluating the visual stability of tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 2 to 4 of the present invention.

[0019] Figures 3a and 3b show the results of the accelerated stability test in glass packaging of a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 5 of the present invention.

[0020] Figures 3c and 3d show the results of the accelerated stability test in tube packaging of tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 1 and Ex. 5 of the present invention.

[0021] Figure 3e shows the application of tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 1 and Ex. 5 of the present invention in skin after the accelerated stability test in glass and tube packaging.

[0022] Figure 4a shows the macroscopically result of the high stress test of tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 1 and Ex. 5 of the present invention.

[0023] Figure 4b shows the data analysis of the high stress test (instability Index vs time) of a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 5 of the present invention in view of the comparative sample C1 .

[0024] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0025] The tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention comprises:

[0026] (a) at least one emollient;

[0027] (b) at least one solvent;

[0028] (c) at least one pigment;

[0029] (d) at least one filler;

[0030] (e) at least one UV filter;

[0031] (f) a fatty compound and polymer system; and

[0032] (g) at least one surfactant.

[0033] The tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise a suspending agent selected from disteardimonium hectorite. In a preferred embodiment, the suspending agent is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.1 % to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 4.0% by weight, more preferably from about 1.0% to about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0034] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one emollient is selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one emollient is present in a concentration ranging from about 1.0% to about 25.0% by weight, preferably from about 2.0% to about 20.0% by weight, more preferably from about 3.0% to about 17.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0036] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one solvent is selected from C15- 19 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0037] In a preferred embodiment the at least one solvent is present in a concentration ranging from about 1.0% to about 20.0% by weight, preferably from about 3.0% to about 17.0% by weight, more preferably from about 5.0% to about 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0038] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one pigment is selected from (Cl 77497) red iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, (Cl 77499) black iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, (Cl 77492) yellow iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, (Cl 77891 ) titanium dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one pigment is present in a concentration ranging from about 1.0% to about 20.0% by weight, preferably from about 3.0% to about 15.0% by weight, more preferably from about 5.0% to about 12.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0040] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one filler is selected from silica silylate, silica, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one filler is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 7.0% by weight, more preferably from about 1 .0% to about 5.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment the at least one UV filter is an organic LIV filter selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one UV filter is present in a concentration ranging from about 1.0% to about 30.0% by weight, preferably from about 2.0% to about 20.0% by weight, more preferably from about 5.0% to about 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0043] In a preferred embodiment, are excluded from the present invention the UV filters bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, avobenzone, homosalate and octocrylene.

[0044] In a preferred embodiment the fatty compound and polymer system is selected from Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax and polyam ide-8.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment, the fatty compound and polymer system is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.1% to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 4.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3.75% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0046] In the fatty compound and polymer system, the Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax is present in a concentration ranging from about 10% to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 15% to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the fatty compound and polymer system.

[0047] In the fatty compound and polymer system, the polyamide-8 is present in a concentration ranging from about 70% to about 90% by weight, preferably from about 75% to about 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the fatty compound and polymer system.

[0048] In a preferred embodiment the at least one surfactant is selected from octyldodecanol (and) octyldodecyl xyloside, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one surfactant is present in a concentration ranging from about 0.5% to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 1.0% to about 3.0% by weight, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0050] In a preferred embodiment, the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention presents a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) ranging from 40 to 80, preferably from 50 to 70, more preferably about 70. The tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is in the form of an inverted W / O emulsion, i.e., water in oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0051] In a preferred embodiment the pH of the water phase of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition ranges from about 5.5 to about 7.5. In a more preferred embodiment, the pH of the composition is about 7.0.

[0052] In a preferred embodiment, the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is free of silicone.

[0053] The tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention presents a high SPF property, which provides several beneficial attributes to the product, including the protection of the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, known as UVA and UVB rays, as well as visible and infrared light, an effective make-up effect, which provides a good coverage and a comfortable skin finish, easy application, good spreadability, less shine, which does not melt on high temperature in the face, has an imperceptible touch and combines high protection with smoothness to the skin. Also, the composition of the present invention provides water resistance and is stable over the time.

[0054] The tinted cosmetic composition of the present invention also provides make-up effect (good coverage, comfortable skin finish).

[0055] In another preferred embodiment, the present invention is related to the use of a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition for the manufacture of a product that provides photoprotection of keratinous materials (preferably the skin) with color coverage.

[0056] TERMS

[0057] As used herein, the expression “at least” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0058] Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about,” meaning within + / - 10% of the indicated number.

[0059] As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present ( / .e., “consisting of”).

[0060] The terms "a," "an," and "the" are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.

[0061] As used herein, the phrases “and mixtures thereof,” “and a mixture thereof,” “and combinations thereof,” “and a combination thereof,” “or mixtures thereof,” “or a mixture thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” and “or a combination thereof,” are used interchangeably to denote that the listing of components immediately preceding the phrase, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof” signify that the component(s) may be chosen from A, from B, from C, from D, from A+B, from A+B+C, from A+D, from A+C+D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof.

[0062] The term “invert emulsion” as used herein refers to mixtures consisting of an aqueous phase and emulsified surfactants in an oil medium. Invert emulsions are known as water-in-oil emulsions (W / O).

[0063] The term “SPF”, as used herein refers to the “Sun Protection Factor”, which indicates the level of protection against UVB radiation of a product. The SPF indicates the time a person can be exposed to sunlight using sunscreen before getting sunburnt and the time they can be exposed to sunlight without getting sunburnt.

[0064] EMOLLIENTS

[0065] The tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one emollient, preferably oily emollients.

[0066] According to the present invention, emollients are oil-phase ingredients selected from esters, triglycerides, ethers, carbonates, alcohols, oils, butters, fatty acids, and combinations thereof.

[0067] Preferably, the emollients according to the present invention are selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] SOLVENTS

[0069] The tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one solvent, preferably drying solvents and, more preferably, alkanes. Preferably, the solvents according to the present invention are selected from C15-19 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0070] PIGMENTS

[0071] In order to provide tinting and coverage to the user’s skin, the composition of the present invention comprises pigments.

[0072] Preferably, the pigments according to the present invention are selected from (Cl 77497) red iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, (Cl 77499) black iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, (Cl 77492) yellow iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, (Cl 77891 ) titanium dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

[0073] FILLERS

[0074] The tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one filler.

[0075] The tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the invention include a spherical amorphous silica. According to certain embodiments, the mean size of these particles of spherical amorphous silica is less than 15.0 pm and more particularly ranges from 3 to 10 pm. The particles of spherical amorphous silica useful according to the invention are colorless or white solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. The spherical amorphous silica may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, although in certain embodiments it is free from such coatings.

[0076] The “silica silylate” according to the present invention is hydrophobic silica aerogels, as described in WO 2021 / 016680. The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example, trimethylsilyl groups. Preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, is found in U.S. Patent No. 7,470,725, incorporated herein by reference. In one embodiment, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups are desirable.

[0077] Preferably, the fillers according to the present invention are selected from selected from silica silylate, silica, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, and mixtures thereof. UV FILTERS

[0078] The tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one UV filter.

[0079] According to the present invention, UV filters are compounds that are active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic.

[0080] In a preferred embodiment, are excluded from the present invention the UV filters bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, avobenzone, homosalate and octocrylene.

[0081] Organic UV Filters

[0082] The preferably embodiment, UV filters according to the present invention are selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] Organic UV filters may be active in the UV- A and / or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic.

[0084] The organic UV filter may be solid or liquid. The terms “solid” and “liquid” mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.

[0085] Examples of organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; f3,fB- diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis- benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue; and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Mention may be made, as examples of the organic UV filter(s), of those denoted below under their INCI names, and mixtures thereof. Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate, Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate. Salicylic compounds: ethylhexyl salicylate; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate; and TEA salicylate. Camphor compounds, in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor. Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone); benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone); Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone; benzophenone-4 (hydroxym ethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid); benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); benzophenone-8; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate); and benzophenone- 12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate. |3,|3-Diphenylacrylate compounds: Etocrylene. Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'- aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine. Benzotriazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975. Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15. Benzimidazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate. Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Bis- benzoazolyl compounds: The derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264. Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA. Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds, such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol], 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26,184, and EP-893,119. Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2- yl-(4-phenyl)imino]- 6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine.

[0087] It is in some embodiments desirable that the organic UV filter(s) can be selected from the group consisting of: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, l,r-(l,4-piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2- hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)- s-triazine, 2,4,6- tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4' aminobenzalmalonate)-6- [(3 - { 1 ,3 ,3 ,3 -tetramethyl- 1 - [(trimethylsilyloxy] - disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter- phenyl)-triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, polysilicone-15, dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, I, l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4- diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-l (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2- ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, camphor benzylkonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] FATTY COMPOUND AND POLYMER SYSTEM

[0089] The tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises a fatty compound and polymer system, preferably an oily structuring and film forming system.

[0090] Preferably, the fatty compound and polymer system has the function of providing structuring and film forming to the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention.

[0091] The fatty compound and polymer system is selected from Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax and polyam ide-8.

[0092] Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax

[0093] As used herein, the “carnauba wax” or “Copernicia cerifera wax” relates to a solid carnauba wax. Solid carnauba wax is a hard wax scraped from the leaves and leaf stems of carnauba palms, Copernicia cerifera. The carnauba wax comprises esters of C18-C32 fatty acids, and C28-C34 alcohols, also containing high amounts of hydroxy acid esters and melting points around 80 and 86 °C. Additionally, the carnauba wax usually comprises from about 80% by weight to about 85% by weight of fatty esters, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of alcohols, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of hydrocarbons, 5 from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of free acids, from about 1 % by weight to about 6% by weight of resins, from about 1 % by weight to about 5% by weight of lactic components and from about 0.1 % by weight to about 2% by weight of humidity.

[0094] Polyamide-8

[0095] According to the present invention, the polyamide-8 has the chemical name of Bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer.

[0096] In a preferred embodiment, the polyamide-8 is a gelling agent / oil- structuring agent / film-former.

[0097] SURFACTANTS

[0098] The tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention comprises at least one surfactant.

[0099] Preferably, the surfactants according to the present invention are selected from octyldodecanol (and) octyldodecyl xyloside, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

[0101] In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the tinted sunscreen composition of the present invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as additional UV filters, active compounds, fatty compounds, additional fillers, perfume / fragrance, additional polymers, preserving agents, solvents, additional surfactants, vitamins, pigments, pH adjuster, mineral additives and mixtures thereof.

[0102] A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and / or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

[0103] The additional ingredients may represent from about 0.1 % to about 80.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0104] PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A TINTED COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION

[0105] A non-limiting example regarding a process for manufacturing a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention could be as follows:

[0106] Step (A): Main Vessel - hot oily phase comprising oil raw materials, oilsoluble polymers such as polyamide compounds, and optionally pigments, in a temperature ranging from 75 °C to 80 °C;

[0107] Step (B): Side Vessel - cold aqueous phase at a room temperature comprising water raw materials, and water-soluble;

[0108] Step (C): the aqueous phase of step (B) is added to the oily phase of step (A), followed by mixing the mixture;

[0109] Step (D): other fillers (if present) are added to the mixture obtained in step (C);

[0110] Step (E): the additional cosmetic ingredients (if present), are gradually added to the mixture obtained in step (D) and mixed until homogeneity, at a temperature of below 40 °C;

[0111] Step (F): optionally, pigments are added to the mixture obtained in step (E).

[0112] EMBODIMENT OF THE INVENTION

[0113] In a non-limitative embodiment, the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition is as follows:

[0114] (a) from about 1.0% to about 25.0% by weight of at least one emollient, selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof;

[0115] (b) from about 1 .0% to about 20.0% by weight of at least one solvent, selected from C15-19 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

[0116] (c) from about 1 .0% to about 20,0% by weight of at least one pigment, selected from red iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, black iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, yellow iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, titanium dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl;

[0117] (d) from about 0.1 % to about 10.0% by weight of at least one filler, selected from silica silylate, silica, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, and mixtures thereof; (e) from about 1 .0% to about 30.0% by weight of at least one UV filter, selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof;

[0118] (f) from about 0.1 % to about 5.0% by weight of a fatty compound and polymer system selected from Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax and polyamide-8; and

[0119] (g) from about 0.5% to about 5.0% by weight of at least one surfactant, selected from octyldodecanol (and) octyldodecyl xyloside, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof, wherein all weights based on the total weight of the composition.

[0120] EXAMPLES

[0121] Examples 1 to 6

[0122] Non-limiting examples of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention are according to Examples 1 to 6 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 6): Table 1 : Formulas according to the present invention

[0123] In Table 1 , all quantities of the ingredients are percentages by weight based on the total weight of the tinted sunscreen composition.

[0124] Examples 7 to 11 Other non-limiting examples of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention are according to Examples 7 to 11 (Ex. 7 to Ex. 11 ):

[0125] Table 2: Formulas according to the present invention

[0126] In Table 2, all quantities of the ingredients are percentages by weight based on the total weight of the tinted sunscreen composition.

[0127] Example 12 - Comparative Formula Comparative formula C1 is shown in table 3 below:

[0128] Table 3: Comparative Formulas

[0129] In Table 3, all quantities of the ingredients are percentages by weight based on the total weight of the tinted sunscreen composition.

[0130] Example 13 - Stability Tests

[0131] Tests were performed in order to demonstrate the stability of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention.

[0132] Example 13.1 : Accelerated Crystallization Test

[0133] The accelerated crystallization test is a stress test that combines cycles of freeze and thawing & ultrasound stress of samples submitted to 4 °C for a period of 1 week. The objective of this test is to predict any crystallization of UV filter, and the measurement is by microscopic analysis, checking the presence of any crystals of UV filter.

[0134] The stability of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of Ex. 1 was studied by submitting it to a temperature of 4°C and combining cycles of freeze and thawing & ultrasound stress for 1 week. Using optical microscopy, it was possible to determine that there was no crystallization of UV filters after the test.

[0135] The results of the optical microscopy are shown in Figures 1a-1d, in which it was possible to observe that no UV filter crystals were detected. The crystals observed are related to starch, which is part of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention.

[0136] Example 13.2: Centrifuge Test Centrifuge test allows to verify how good suspension network of formulation is.

[0137] The tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 2, Ex. 3 and Ex. 4 were submitted to centrifugation at 25 °C (room temperature) to predict phase separation in a centrifugation speed of 2300 rpm for a period of 1 hour. After centrifugation, the stability of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions was visually evaluated.

[0138] The results of the centrifugation tests are shown in Figure 2, for tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions of Ex. 2, Ex. 3 and Ex.4. It was possible to observe that the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention did not show oil phase separation, pigment / fi Iler deposition, or pigment drag on walls of Falcon tube in the visual evaluation.

[0139] Example 13.3: Accelerated Stability Test

[0140] The accelerated stability test is an oven stability test in which it is evaluated if the formulation suffers modifications by temperature or action time.

[0141] The accelerated stability test was performed with tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions of Ex. 1 and Ex. 5, wherein the stability of the composition was visually evaluated after the samples were submitted to temperatures of 4°C, 25 °C (room temperature) and 45 °C for a period of 2 months in glass and tube packaging. The results of the accelerated stability test are shown in Figures 3a-3d. It is possible to observe that, even at high temperatures, the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention did not show phase separation.

[0142] Also, in Figure 3e, it was possible to observe that there was no compromising in the applied color of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions of Ex.1 and Ex.5.

[0143] Example 13.4: High Stress Test

[0144] The high stress test combines mechanical stress and temperature stress by submitting the samples to centrifugation in high temperatures. The objective of this test is to clarify if the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention present a stable instability index overtime, therefore, indicating that the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention have good stability, i.e., no sedimentation or if microscopic separation occurs in the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions of the present invention.

[0145] The results of the high stress test are shown in Figures 4a and 4b. Figure 4a shows the macroscopically result of the high stress test of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to Ex. 1 and Ex. 5, demonstrating no visible separation in the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention.

[0146] Figure 4b shows the data analysis of the high stress test (instability Index vs time) of tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to Ex. 5 of the present invention in view of the comparative sample C1 of Example 12. The instability index of the tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition according to the present invention is constant, showing that there is no significant movement of particles or any separations during the test. It was concluded that there is a good stability over the time (low absolute value of the parameter) for the tinted cosmetic sunscreen compositions according to the present invention.

[0147] Example 14 - SPF Test and Water Resistance

[0148] An in vivo test was carried out with 10 volunteers in order to determine the sun protection factor (SPF) of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention, before and after water immersion, of one topical use of the cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to methodology ISO 24444. The study was conducted with 10 female and male subjects, aged from 18 to 61 years old, with phototypes I to III, for 57 days.

[0149] The tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention according to Ex. 6 was applied on the subject's dry skin and irradiated with a controlled dose of ultraviolet radiation (product applied with small circular movements without fingercot and application time between 33 and 42 seconds). Then, the cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention was applied to another site, and after a period of 40 minutes, during which the study subject remained in a bathtub, the irradiation was repeated. The sites were evaluated after a period of 16-24 hours.

[0150] The mean static SPF of the cosmetic sunscreen composition of Example 5 was 76.0, and after water immersion was 57.9.

[0151] Example 15 - UVA Protection and Critical Wavelength

[0152] An in vitro study was conducted in order to evaluate the UVA Protection (SPF) and wavelength of the composition of Ex. 6, which was applied in a standardized quantity on Sunplates PMMA, according to the ISO 24443 Cosmetics Sun protection test methods - Determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro” (2012).

[0153] Confidence Interval.

[0154] The composition of Ex. 6 has an average UVA SPF of 29.2.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS1. Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising:(a) at least one emollient, selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof;(b) at least one solvent, selected from C15-19 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, alcohol, and mixtures thereof;(c) at least one pigment;(d) at least one filler, selected from silica silylate, silica, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, and mixtures thereof;(e) at least one UV filter;(f) a fatty compound and polymer system, selected from Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax and polyam ide-8; and(g) at least one surfactant, selected from octyldodecanol (and) octyldodecyl xyloside, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.

2. Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein it further comprises a suspending agent selected from disteardimonium hectorite in a concentration of 0.1 % to 5.0%, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one emollient is present in a concentration ranging from 1.0% to 25.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

4. Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one solvent is present in a concentration ranging from 1.0% to 20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

5. Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the pigment is selected from selected from red iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, black iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, yellow iron oxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, titanium dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

6. Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one pigment is present in a concentration ranging from 1.0% to 20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

7. Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one filler is present in a concentration ranging from 0.1 % to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one UV filter is selected diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

9. Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one UV filter is present in a concentration ranging from 1.0% to 30.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

10. Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the UV filters bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, avobenzone, homosalate and octocrylene are excluded from the present invention.

11. Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the fatty compound and polymer system is present in a concentration ranging from 0.1 % to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

12. Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one surfactant is present in a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

13. Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition is an inverted emulsion (W / O emulsion).

14. Tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition, comprising:(a) 3.0% to 17.0% by weight of at least one emollient, selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof;(b) 5.0% to 15.0% by weight of at least one solvent, selected from C15- 19 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, alcohol, and mixtures thereof;(c) 5.0% to 12.0% by weight of at least one pigment;(d) 1.0% to 5.5% by weight of at least one filler, selected from silica silylate, silica, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, and mixtures thereof;(e) 5.0% to 15.0% by weight of at least one UV filter;(f) 0.2% to 4.0% by weight a fatty compound and polymer system, selected from Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax and polyam ide-8; and(g) 1.5% to 3.0% by weight of at least one surfactant, selected from octyldodecanol (and) octyldodecyl xyloside, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof; wherein all weights are based on the total weight of the composition.

15. Use of a tinted cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising:(a) at least one emollient, selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, diisopropyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof;(b) at least one solvent, selected from C15-19 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, alcohol, and mixtures thereof;(c) at least one pigment;(d) at least one filler, selected from silica silylate, silica, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, and mixtures thereof;(e) at least one UV filter, selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof;(f) a fatty compound and polymer system, selected from Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax and polyam ide-8; and(g) at least one surfactant, selected from octyldodecanol (and) octyldodecyl xyloside, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof, wherein it is for the manufacture of a product for the photoprotection of keratinous materials with color coverage.

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