Composition comprising an alkali metal carbonate, calcium hydroxide, sodium or potassium metasilicate and some fatty substances

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising: a) at least one alkali metal carbonate; b) calcium hydroxide; c) sodium or potassium metasilicate; and d) one or more fatty substance(s); wherein the latter fatty substances include optionally up to 30% by weight of mineral oil and / or petrolatum jelly relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates a cosmetic process for straightening keratin fibres using said composition. It also relates to a hair relaxing composition comprising at least one hydroxide-containing active ingredient and one or more fatty substance(s); wherein the latter fatty substances include optionally up to 30% by weight of mineral oil and / or petrolatum jelly relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] Composition comprising an alkali metal carbonate, calcium hydroxide, sodium or potassium metasilicate and some fatty substances

[0003] The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibres, for example a hair relaxer composition, which comprises at least one alkali metal carbonate, calcium hydroxide, sodium or potassium metasilicate and fatty substances, wherein the latter fatty substances include optionally up to 30% by weight of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly. The keratin fibres can be in particular human keratin fibres, such as hair.

[0004] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for straightening keratin fibres using this composition.

[0005] Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for straightening keratin fibres.

[0006] Hair relaxers generally fall into two categories: mix and no-mix. "Mix" relaxers generally require a two-component system of a cream base and an activator, which are combined prior to use. Darkwaet al . ; U. S . Patent No. 5,679,327, which issued October 21 , 1997, describes a highly alkaline hair straightening emulsion of this variety . The emulsion described employs a combination of a strong nitrogenous organic base and an alkali metal hydroxide in the presence of an alkaline earth metal cation. Such combination is effective for achieving permanent straightening of hair with a treatment time not more than about 30 minutes. So-called "no-mix" relaxers on the other hand are ready to use. They generally are in the form of a liquid, cream, gel, paste or emulsion which can be directly applied to a subj ect's hair without first, as the term implies, mixing of two or more separate components.

[0007] No-mix hair relaxers are very convenient and therefore very desirable. However, they suffer from many of the same problems as their mix-based counterparts and some which are unique. Some hair relaxers rely on strong organic and / or inorganic bases such as sodium hydroxide (also referred to as lye) to break the disulfide bonds found in hair's structure, thus allowing straightening through the application of mechanical forces. However, in the concentrations used, these strong bases generally exi st at a pH of greater than 13.2, a level that is caustic and can be dangerous to unprotected skin if exposed for any great length of time. Even when skin is properly protected and a relaxer i s properly formulated, hair relaxers with lye, for example, can become uncomfortable for subj ects in as little as about 15 minutes. This can result in premature termination of the treatment, which often affects the degree to which hair can be straightened. And while higher concentrations and higher pH formulations can act more quickly, the amount of discomfort and the length of time that a subj ect could be exposed to the relaxer vary accordingly . Moreover, lye-based products, because of their highly corrosive nature, can be very damaging to the hair, causing breakage and discoloration, as well as the general lack of desirable physical appearance.

[0008] Other strong inorganic bases have been used in place of sodium hydroxide. One of the most popular is lithium hydroxide. Lithium hydroxide, at appropriate concentrations, results in a lower pH and therefore is more comfortable and can be applied for longer periods of time. However, lithium hydroxide is not nearly as efficient as sodium hydroxide in obtaining appropriate degrees of hair straightening. The result is the need to expose the subj ect to a lithium hydroxide-based hair relaxer for a longer period of time to achieve similar straightening. This, however, is self-defeating. First, subj ect is drastically inconvenienced as treatment times of greater than 30 minutes are often required. Moreover, although more comfortable in the short term, upon longer exposure times necessary to obtain appropriate straightening, subj ects often complain of scalp discomfort and burning sensations before the ideal treatment time has elapsed. Interrupting treatment at that point yields suboptimal results.

[0009] Permanent hair straightening should be achieved as quickly as possible to minimize skin irritation, hair damage or breakage, and / or hair discoloration from exposure to alkali . For persons having a "fine" type of hair, this can be generally readily achieved. However, for persons having "normal" and especially "coarse to resistant" hair, generally longer treatment (contact) times or greater concentrations of alkaline material or both are needed to effect permanent hair straightening. It is generally recognized in the hair straightening art that prolonged exposure (contact) of hair to the highly alkaline conditions required for permanent hair straightening increases the possibilities of irritating the scalp and hair line skin, of weakening the strength of the treated hair, and of hair discoloration. Thus, even though the extent of permanent hair straightening tends to improve in direct proportion to increased alkalinity and treatment (contact) time, so does the advent or likelihood of these adverse, undesired problems. To avoid or minimize such problems, it is common to limit the treatment time (that i s, the time of contact between the emul sion and the user's scalp and hair) to a period that is not longer than about 30 minutes as is known to those familiar with the art.

[0010] In addition, relaxing compositions generally comprise a fatty phase made up of fatty substance, the amount of fatty substance being greater to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This fatty phase allows to control the texture of the relaxing composition so that it can be easily and safely applied on the hair to be treated. Furthermore, it acts as a shield to protect the hair integrity and to prevent scalp irritations. Thus, traditional relaxers generally compri se from 30% to 40% by weight of petrochemicals such as petrolatum and / or mineral oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] The formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a maj or goal in an effort to meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0012] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good index of naturalness and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin. However, replacing petrochemicals with mixture of vegetable substance derived from plants is challenging due to alkalinity and some stability issue; in particular, vegetable oils are unstable at high pH. Another concern is the saponification reaction where these waxes and oils of high ester content react with the active hydroxide ions and convert to acids and then salts, thus significantly reducing the alkalinity of the relaxer, thus possibly impacting its straightening performance. Thus, the composition of the fatty phase with reduced amounts of petrochemicals needs to be finely tuned in order to reach at least the same level of straightening performance and scalp comfort as the traditional relaxer products.

[0013] Thus, there is a real need to provide compositions with limited content of petrolatum j elly and mineral oil, such as compositions for straightening keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, that allow overcoming the drawbacks described above, i . e. which can achieve substantially complete permanent hair straightening of naturally curly, or even very curly or frizzy hair, and which allows improving scalp comfort, notably in terms of burning, itching and stinging. These compositions need to have a good stability over time as well as good cosmetics properties such as volume distribution of the hair and shine. Last, the compositions need to achieve long lasting performance of straightening of the hair fibre.

[0014] The Applicant has now discovered that a composition compri sing at least one alkali metal carbonate, calcium hydroxide, sodium or potassium metasilicate and fatty substances, wherein the latter fatty substances include optionally up to 30% by weight of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly, makes it possible to achieve the obj ectives outlined above.

[0015] Thus, the subj ect of the invention is a composition comprising: a) at least one alkali metal carbonate; b) calcium hydroxide; c) sodium or potassium metasilicate; and d) one or more fatty substance(s); wherein the latter fatty substances include optionally up to 30% by weight of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly relative to the total weight of the composition. This composition, when applied on keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, provides high performances in terms of the straightening of hair, whilst maintaining a good scalp comfort, notably in terms of burning, itching and stinging. Moreover, the straightening properties obtained with the composition of the invention are long-lasting. Last, the relaxed hair exhibits good cosmetic properties in terms of volume distribution and shine. Furthermore, the composition according to the invention are stable over time and display good storage properties.

[0016] The present invention al so relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for straightening keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair, using the composition according to the invention.

[0017] Another subj ect-matter of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for straightening keratin fibres.

[0018] Last, the present invention also relates to a hair relaxing composition compri sing at least one hydroxide-containing active ingredient and one or more fatty substance(s); wherein the latter fatty substances include optionally up to 30% by weight of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably below 20% by weight, more preferably below 10% by weight, better below 5% by weight, better still below 1 % by weight, even more preferably the fatty substance(s) does (do) not include mineral oil, nor petrolatum j elly .

[0019] Other subj ect-matters, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.

[0020] In the text herein below, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, for example in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ..." .

[0021] Moreover, the expression " at least one" used in the present description i s equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

[0022] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one alkali metal carbonate, calcium hydroxide, sodium or potassium metasilicate and one or more fatty substance(s), wherein the latter fatty substances include optionally up to 30% by weight of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] As indicated above, the total amount of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly does not exceed 30% by weight of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the total amount of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly is below 30% by weight, preferably below 20% by weight, more preferably below 10% by weight, better below 5% by weight, better still below 1 % by weight.

[0024] Preferably, the fatty substance(s) does (do) not include mineral oil, nor petrolatum j elly in the composition according to the invention.

[0025] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of calcium hydroxide b) is of at least 1.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total amount of calcium hydroxide b) ranges from 1 .4 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 .4 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1.4 to 15% by weight, better from 1.4 to 10% by weight, better still from 1.4 to 5% by weight, even better still from 1.4 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of alkali metal carbonate(s) a) and sodium or potassium metasilicate c) i s of at least 2.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In other words, the sum of the amount of alkali metal carbonate(s) a) and of the amount of sodium or potassium metasilicate c) i s of at least 2.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total amount of alkali metal carbonate(s) a) and sodium or potassium metasilicate c) ranges from 2.6 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2.6 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2.6 to 15% by weight, better from 2.6 to 10% by weight, better still from 2.6 to 5% by weight, even better still from 3 to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] Advantageously, the total amount of alkali metal carbonate(s) a) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 15% by weight, better from 0.8 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, even better still from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of sodium or potassium metasilicate c) ranges from 0. 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 15% by weight, better from 0.8 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] According to one embodiment, the at least one alkali metal carbonate a) and calcium hydroxide b) can be present at a weight ratio (sodium carbonate a) / calcium hydroxide b)) ranging from 0.003 to 25, preferably from 0.01 to 20, more preferably from 0. 1 to 10, better from 0.2 to 5 , better still from 0.5 to 2, even better still from 1 to 1.5.

[0030] Advantageously, sodium or potassium metasilicate c) and calcium hydroxide b) can be present at a weight ratio (sodium or potassium metasilicate c) / calcium hydroxide b)) ranging from 0.003 to 25, preferably from 0.01 to 20, more preferably from 0.1 to 10, better from 0.2 to 5, better still from 0.5 to 1.5.

[0031] According to one embodiment, the at least one alkali metal carbonate a) and sodium or potassium metasilicate c) can be present at a weight ratio (alkali metal carbonate a) / sodium or potassium metasilicate c)) ranging from 0.003 to 25 , preferably from 0.01 to 20, more preferably from 0.1 to 10, better from 0.2 to 5 , better still from 0.4 to 3 , even better still from 1 to 2.5.

[0032] Preferably, the alkali metal carbonate a) is chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, and mixture thereof.

[0033] More preferably, the alkali metal carbonate a) is sodium carbonate.

[0034] Preferably, sodium or potassium metasilicate c) is sodium metasilicate.

[0035] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise lithium hydroxide.

[0036] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise sodium hydroxide. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise lithium hydroxide nor sodium hydroxide.

[0037] Hydroxide-containing active ingredient

[0038] Suitable hydroxide-containing active ingredients for use in the present invention may be chosen, for example, from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, and organic hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, caesium hydroxide, francium hydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, cerium hydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide, aluminium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and quaternary ammonium hydroxides.

[0039] Particularly preferred hydroxide-containing active ingredients for use in the present invention are sodium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide.

[0040] Fatty substance(s)

[0041] The composition according to the present invention further compri se one or more fatty substances, wherein these fatty substances include optionally up to 30% by weight of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure (1 .013 >< 105Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight and even more preferentially less than 0. 1 % by weight). The fatty substances have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum j elly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0043] As indicated above, the total amount of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly does not exceed 30% by weight of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the total amount of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly is below 30% by weight, preferably below 20% by weight, more preferably below 10% by weight, better below 5% by weight, better still below 1 % by weight.

[0044] Preferably, the fatty substance(s) does (do) not include mineral oil, nor petrolatum j elly in the composition according to the invention.

[0045] Preferably, the fatty substances of the invention do not contain any salified or unsalified carboxylic acid groups (-C(O)OH or -C(O)O- ). Particularly, the fatty substances of the invention are neither polyoxyalkylenated, nor polyglycerolated.

[0046] Preferably, the fatty substances of the invention do not contain fatty acids, nor esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides

[0047] Preferably, said fatty substance(s) are chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0048] Liquid fatty substances

[0049] Thus, the fatty substance(s) can be chosen from liquid fatty substances.

[0050] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises liquid fatty substance(s).

[0051] Preferably, the liquid fatty sub stances that can be used in the present invention are non-silicone fatty substances.

[0052] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing any silicon atoms (Si) and the term “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one silicon atom.

[0053] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides, and mixtures thereof. It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0054] The liquid hydrocarbons that can be used in the context of the invention may be Ce to Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons and liquid hydrocarbons compri sing more than 16 carbon atoms.

[0055] As regards the Ce to Cie liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum j elly, polydecenes or hydrogenated polyi sobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] In a preferred embodiment, the liquid hydrocarbons according to the invention are C 15-C 19 alkanes and squalane, more preferably C 15 - C 19 alkanes.

[0058] Among the hydrocarbon-based oil s of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

[0059] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, j oj oba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethyl cyclopentane and perfluoro- 1 ,3 -dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC I and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1 ,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyi sobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4- trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.

[0061] The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohol s, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, compri sing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the liquid fatty alcohol according to the invention is octyldodecanol .

[0062] As regards the liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, different from the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0063] Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) do not include liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides.

[0064] Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohol s, and mixture thereof, even more preferably C 15 -C 19 alkanes and octyldodecanol .

[0065] Solid fatty substances

[0066] As indicated above, the fatty sub stance(s) can also be chosen from solid fatty substances. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises solid fatty substance(s).

[0067] A solid fatty substance, in the meaning of the invention, is a fatty substance with a melting point above 25 °C, at atmospheric pressure ( 1.013 x l 05Pa). A liquid fatty substance, in the meaning of the invention, is a fatty substance with a melting point below 25 °C, at atmospheric pressure ( 1.013 >< 105Pa).

[0068] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 1 1357-3 ; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MD SC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure ( 1.013 x l 05Pa).

[0069] The solid fatty sub stances according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa. s, measured at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s'1.

[0070] Preferably, the solid fatty substances are non-silicone substances.

[0071] The solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, waxes, butters, ceramides, solid monoglycerides, diglycerides or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] The term “fatty acid” means a long-chain carboxylic acid compri sing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferentially compri se from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0073] The solid fatty acids that can be used in the present invention are notably chosen from myri stic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol compri sing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0074] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0075] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated, and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0076] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from :

[0077] - myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol);

[0078] - cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol);

[0079] - stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol);

[0080] - arachidyl alcohol (or 1 -eicosanol);

[0081] - behenyl alcohol (or 1 -docosanol);

[0082] - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1 -tetracosanol);

[0083] - ceryl alcohol (or 1 -hexacosanol);

[0084] - montanyl alcohol (or 1 -octacosanol);

[0085] - myricyl alcohol (or 1 -triacontanol).

[0086] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol . Particularly, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol, better still the solid fatty alcohol is cetearyl alcohol . The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0087] As regards the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, different from the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may be made notably of esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0088] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C and which may range up to 200°C, and having, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

[0089] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, nonsilicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti ; cork fibre or sugarcane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum j elly (petrolatum), lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer- Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0091] Mention may also be made of C2 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0092] Mention may also be made of the PM 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0093] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes mention may notably be made of isomerized j oj oba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated j oj oba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Joj oba- 50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(l , l , l - trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0094] The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73 ® by the company Sophim, may also be used.

[0095] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group compri sing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

[0096] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 1 14S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 3 10® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micro si ip 5 19® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

[0097] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin, petroleum j elly, lignite or ozokerite wax; plant waxes, for instance cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated j oj oba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or ab solute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the composition according to the invention contains less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5%, more preferably less than 2% of mineral wax relative to the total weight of the composition. Better still, the composition according to the invention does not contain mineral wax.

[0098] The ceramides, or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0099] The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are 2-N- linoleoyl aminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-oleoyl aminooctadecane- 1 ,3 - diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane- l ,3 -diol; 2-N- stearoyl aminooctadecane- 1 ,3 -diol; 2-N-behenoyl aminooctadecane- 1 ,3 - diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane- l ,3 -diol; 2-N- stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3 ,4-triol and in particular N- stearoylphytosphingosine, 2 -N-palmitoyl aminohexadecane- 1 ,3 -diol, N- linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N- behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3 -cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N- Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used. Butters may also be used.

[0100] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter" (also referred to as "pasty fatty substance”) is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, compri sing at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting start temperature above 25°C and a melting end temperature below 60°C.

[0101] Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’ s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemi stry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10. 1002 / 14356007. a l 0_173 , point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0102] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, il lip e butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.

[0103] An example of a preferred butter is shea butter.

[0104] In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospermum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% fatty substance, which is generally extracted and refined.

[0105] Preferably, the solid fatty substance(s) do not include solid fatty acids, nor solid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides. Preferably, the solid fatty substance(s) are chosen from solid fatty alcohol s, butters, ceramides, and mixture thereof, even more preferably from solid fatty alcohols and butters, and mixtures thereof, better still from from cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), and mixtures thereof.

[0106] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition compri ses at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one solid fatty substance.

[0107] Preferably, the (solid fatty substance / liquid fatty substance) weight ratio is higher than or equal to 0.2, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 3 , more preferably from 0.25 to 2, better from 0.3 to 1 .

[0108] Alternatively, the (solid fatty alcohol / liquid fatty substance) weight ratio in the composition of the invention is advantageously higher than or equal to 0.2, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 2, more preferably from 0.3 to 1.

[0109] Advantageously, the total amount of the fatty substance(s) ranges from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 60% by weight, better from 30 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] According to one particular embodiment, the total amount of the solid fatty sub stance(s) ranges from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 5 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, better from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] In another particular embodiment, the total amount of the liquid fatty substance(s) ranges from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 5 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, better from 20 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] In a preferred embodiment, the liquid fatty substance includes one or more liquid fatty alcohols, preferably octyldodecanol, more preferably in an amount ranging from 0. 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] Surfactant(s) The composition according to the present invention may further compri se one or more surfactants. They may be non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, cationic or anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] Preferably, the surfactants are different from fatty substances as described above.

[0115] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention compri ses one or more surfactants, more preferably chosen from nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0116] Non-ionic surfactant(s)

[0117] The composition according to the present invention may further compri se one or more non-ionic surfactant(s).

[0118] The non-ionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition of the present invention are in particular described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp 1 16- 178.

[0119] Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

[0120] - oxyalkylenated (Cs-C24)alkylphenol s;

[0121] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C40 alcohols, preferably comprising one or two fatty chains;

[0122] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs to C30 fatty acid amides;

[0123] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;

[0124] - preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol;

[0125] - esters of fatty acids and of sucrose;

[0126] - C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan;

[0127] - oxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan;

[0128] (Cs-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides and (Cs-

[0129] C3o)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprise from 1 to 15 glucose units, (Cs- C3o)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters; - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils;

[0130] - condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide;

[0131] N-(Cs-C3o)alkylglucamine and N-(Cs-

[0132] C3o)acylmethylglucamine derivatives;

[0133] - amine oxides.

[0134] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units. The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges notably from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.

[0135] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units.

[0136] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, notably from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50.

[0137] They are notably chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (Ci- C2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and bearing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging notably from 1 to 30.

[0138] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohol s, ethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides compri sing on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(Ce-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(Cio-C acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0139] As examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8 to C40 alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol .

[0140] Mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1 .5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleyl / cetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol .

[0141] Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C8 to C I O alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C I O to C 12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C 12 alcohol containing 1 .5 mol of glycerol .

[0142] Nonionic surfactants of (Cs-C3o)alkyl(poly)glycoside type may notably be represented by the following general formula: Rl O-(R2O)t- (G)v in which:

[0143] - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 8 to 30 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 24 carbon atoms or even 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical of which the linear or branched alkyl radical includes 8 to 30 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 24 carbon atoms or even 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

[0144] - R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0145] - G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0146] - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4;

[0147] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.

[0148] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

[0149] - R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical including from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

[0150] - R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to

[0151] 0,

[0152] - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose,

[0153] - it being possible for the degree of polymerization, i . e. the value of v, to range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.

[0154] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1 - 6 or 1 -4 type and preferably of 1 -4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / C 16 alkyl (poly)glucosides of 1 -4 type, and notably decyl glucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.

[0155] Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 C S / U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 1 10 and Oramix® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or the products sold by the company Chem Y under the name AGI O LK.

[0156] Preferably, use i s made of C8 / C 16 alkyl (poly)glycosides of 1 -4 type, notably as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

[0157] The Cs-Cso, preferably C12-C 22, fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan may be chosen from : sorbitan caprylate; sorbitan cocoate; sorbitan i sostearate; sorbitan laurate; sorbitan oleate; sorbitan palmitate; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; sorbitan sesquicaprylate; sorbitan sesquiisostearate; sorbitan sesquioleate; sorbitan sesquistearate; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; sorbitan tristearate.

[0158] The polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) fatty acid esters (especially monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan especially containing from 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetylic or stearic acid, and of sorbitan especially containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as: polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO)

[0159] (POLYSORBATE-21 ), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO)

[0160] (POLYSORBATE-20), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO)

[0161] (POLYSORBATE-40), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO)

[0162] (POLYSORBATE-60), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO)

[0163] (POLYSORBATE-61 ), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO)

[0164] (POLYSORBATE-80), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO)

[0165] (POLYSORBATE-81 ), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 EO)

[0166] (POLYSORBATE-65), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 EO)

[0167] (POLYSORBATE-85).

[0168] Mention may also be made of ethoxylated lanolin, i . e. , a polyethylene glycol derivative of lanolin. The preferred lanolin derivative has 75 moles of ethylene oxide. The lanolin derivative, which is designated "PEG-75 Lanolin" by the Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrances Association. PEG-75 Lanolin is available from Amerchol Corporation, Edi son, N.J. , under the trademark " SOLULAN-75" or from the Emery Division of Witco Chemical under the trade designation "Ethoxylan 1686" .

[0169] More preferentially, the nonionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8 to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and including one or two fatty chains, notably at least one C8-C20, notably C 10-C 18, alkyl chain. The products with the INCI names STEARETH-20 and STEARETH-21 are particularly preferred. Preferably, the composition according to the invention compri ses one or more non-ionic surfactant(s), preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 % to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5 % to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] More preferably, the composition according to the invention compri ses one or more non-ionic surfactant(s) selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8 to C40 alcohols compri sing from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and including one or two fatty chains, notably at least one C8-C20, notably C 10-C 18, alkyl chain, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0. 1 % to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5 % to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s)

[0172] The composition according to the present invention may further compri se one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s).

[0173] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of (Cs-C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (Cs-C2oalkyl)amido(C3-Csalkyl)betaines or (Cs- C2oalkyl)amido(C6-Csalkyl) sulfobetaines.

[0174] Among the secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (XII) and (XIII) below:

[0175] Ra-C(O)-N(Z)CH2(CH2)mN+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2C(O)O-, M+, X' (XII) wherein, Rarepresents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0176] Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group;

[0177] Rcrepresents a carboxymethyl group;

[0178] M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and

[0179] X" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C i-C4)alkyl sulphates, (Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate; m is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and

[0180] Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.

[0181] Or alternatively M+and X" are absent;

[0182] Ra’-C(O)-N(Z)-CH2-(CH2)m’-N(B)(B') (XIII) wherein

[0183] B represents the group -CH2-CH2-O-X';

[0184] B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0185] X' represents the group -CH2-C(O)OH, -CH2-C(O)OZ’ , -CH2-CH2- C(O)OH, -CH2-CH2-C(O)OZ ’ , or a hydrogen atom;

[0186] Y' represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ ’ , -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z’ ;

[0187] Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0188] Ra’ represents a C6-C30 alkyl or C6-C30 alkenyl group of an acid Ra- COOH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C17 alkyl group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group; m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and

[0189] Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group. The compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 , under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid and hy droxy ethy 1 carb oxy methyl cocamidopropyl amine.

[0190] Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.

[0191] Use may also be made of compounds of formula (XIV): Ra”-NH-CH(Y” )-(CH2)n-C(O)NH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (XIV) wherein,

[0192] Y” represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ", -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z";

[0193] Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

[0194] Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0195] Ra" represents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"-C(O)OH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil; and n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0196] Among the compounds of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB .

[0197] Among the above-mentioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, it is preferred to use (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine (also called cocobetaine), (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine (also called cocamidopropyl betaine), and mixtures thereof. Cocoylamidopropylbetaine is particularly preferred.

[0198] Preferably, the composition according to the invention compri ses one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, better from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, better from 0.2 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] More preferably, the composition according to the invention compri ses one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants selected from (Cs-C 20 alkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-Cs alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, better from 0. 1 % to 15% by weight, better from 0.2 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0200] Cationic surfactant(s)

[0201] The cationic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise in particular optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, and / or the salts or quaternary ammonium salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0202] Mention may especially be made, as quaternary ammonium salts, for example, of:

[0203] - those corresponding to the following general formula (XV) : in which the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and X" is an anion chosen from the group of halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkyl aryl sulfonates.

[0204] The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, especially, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

[0205] The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C 1-C30 alkyl, C 1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Ce)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12- C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate and C 1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X" i s an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci- C4)alkylsufonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

[0206] Preference is given, among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XV) to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl group compri ses approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or else palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk, or to tetraalkylammonium (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium (C i-C4)alkyl sulfates, in particular dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, for example behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate (INCI name: BEHENTRIMONIUM METHOSULFATE).

[0207] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of the following formula (XVI): in which

[0208] R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,

[0209] Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

[0210] R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,

[0211] R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group; X" is an anion chosen from the group of halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C i-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci- C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

[0212] Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by Rewo;

[0213] - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (XVII) below: in which Ri6 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,

[0214] R17 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group compri sing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Risa),

[0215] Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ris, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0216] X" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, such as chloride, bromide and iodide, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C i-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C i-C4)alkyl- or (C i-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0217] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by Finetex (Quaternium 75).

[0218] - quaternary ammonium salts compri sing one or more ester functions, for instance those of formula (XVIII) below:

[0219] (XVIII) in which:

[0220] R22 is chosen from Ci-Ce alkyl groups and Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,

[0221] R23 is chosen from :

[0222] ,

[0223] - the group , saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27, and

[0224] - a hydrogen atom,

[0225] R25 is chosen from :

[0226] - the group , saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based groups R29, and

[0227] - a hydrogen atom,

[0228] R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C7-C21 hydrocarbonbased groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers having values from 2 to 6, rl and tl , which may be identical or different, have the values 0 or 1 , r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers having values from 0 to 10,

[0229] X" is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.

[0230] The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

[0231] Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0232] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z has a value from 1 to 10.

[0233] When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or be short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0234] When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably has from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0235] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0236] Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, have the value 0 or 1 .

[0237] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0238] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, have the value 2 or 3 and more particularly still are equal to 2.

[0239] The anion X" is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, or a (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylarylsulfonate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion which is compatible with the ammonium having an ester function.

[0240] The anion X" i s more particularly still chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

[0241] Use is more particularly made, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (XVIII) in which: - R.22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

[0242] - x and y are equal to 1 ,

[0243] - z is equal to 0 or 1 ,

[0244] - r, s and t are equal to 2,

[0245] - R23 is chosen from :

[0246] • tKhe group ,

[0247] • methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, and

[0248] • a hydrogen atom,

[0249] - R25 is chosen from :

[0250] • the group , and

[0251] • a hydrogen atom,

[0252] - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0253] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.

[0254] Among the compounds of formula (XVIII), examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or the methyl sulfate of diacyloxy ethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxy ethylhydroxy ethylmethyl ammonium, monoacyl oxy ethyl di hydroxy ethyl methyl ammonium, triacyloxy ethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxy ethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and originate more particularly from a vegetable oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil . When the compound compri ses several acyl groups, the latter can be identical or different.

[0255] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification i s followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably a methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably a dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0256] Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by Rewo-Witco.

[0257] The composition according to the invention can comprise, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a predominance by weight of diester salts.

[0258] Mention may be made, as examples of such compounds, of di stearoyl ethyl hydroxy ethyl methyl ammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium salts, and in particular the methosulfates.

[0259] Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and USA-4 137 180.

[0260] Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyl- trimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 13 1.

[0261] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0262] Among the cationic surfactants, preference is more particularly given to those of formula (XV) such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate (INCI name: BEHENTRIMONIUM METHOSULFATE).

[0263] Preferably, the composition according to the invention compri ses one or more cationic surfactants, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0. 1 % to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.4 % to 2% by weight, better 1.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0264] More preferably, the composition according to the invention compri ses one or more cationic surfactants selected from those of formula (XV) such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0. 1 % to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.4 % to 2% by weight, better 1.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0265] In a preferred embodiment, the total amount of surfactants range(s) from 0. 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10%, better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0266] Polyols

[0267] The composition according to the invention may compri se further one or more polyols.

[0268] A “polyol” is understood to mean a polyhydric alcohol, i. e. a hydrocarbon chain comprising two or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups. The polyol may have a linear or branched, aliphatic or cyclic or even aromatic molecular structure; it may be saturated or unsaturated.

[0269] Preferably, said polyol(s) are linear and saturated; they may compri se from 2 to 6 hydroxyl (-OH) groups, notably from 2 to 4, better still from 2 to 3 and preferentially 2 hydroxyl (-OH) groups.

[0270] They may comprise from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and notably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0271] They do not comprise any oxyalkylene or glycerol-based groups.

[0272] They are advantageously liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure ( 1 atm).

[0273] Preferably, the polyols according to the invention comprise two -OH groups (diols) and 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and are linear and saturated.

[0274] Preferentially, they may be chosen from propylene glycol (propane- 1 , 2-diol), propane- 1 , 3 -diol, butylene glycol (butane- l ,3 -diol), butane-2,3 -diol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol (pentane- 1 , 2-diol), and mixtures thereof. Very preferentially, the polyol i s propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol or mixtures thereof, even more preferentially propylene glycol .

[0275] Preferably, the composition according to the invention compri ses one or more polyols, more preferably in a total amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, or even from 1 % to 5% by weight, preferentially from 1 % to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0276] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more saturated linear C2-C6 diols in a total amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, or even from 1 % to 5% by weight, preferentially from 1 % to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0277] Preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises propylene glycol in a total amount ranging 0.1 % to 20% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight, or even from 1 % to 5% by weight, preferentially from 1 % to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0278] The composition can comprise water in an amount ranging from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0279] The pH of the composition may range from 10 to 14, preferably from 1 1 to 14, more preferably from 12 to 13 ,6.

[0280] Cationic polymers

[0281] The composition according to the present invention may further compri se one or more cationic polymers.

[0282] The term “cationic polymer” means any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0283] The cationic polymers are not silicone-based (they do not compri se any silicon atoms).

[0284] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better still of less than or equal to 4 meq / g. The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i . e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kj eldahl method.

[0285] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5 ^ 106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3 x 106 approximately.

[0286] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of the following polymers:

[0287] ( 1 ) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae: in which:

[0288] - R3 , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

[0289] - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0290] - R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0291] - R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0292] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of family ( 1 ) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C 1 -C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0293] Among these copolymers of family ( 1 ), mention may be made of:

[0294] - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules, copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy, the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

[0295] - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937,

[0296] - dim ethyl aminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0297] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacryl amidopropyl dim ethyl amine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;

[0298] - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP;

[0299] - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C 1 - C4)alkyltri(C l -C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide / meth acryloyl oxy ethyl tri methyl ammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion compri sing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil . This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may al so be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxy ethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer compri sing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

[0300] (2) cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.

[0301] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0302] The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxy ethylcellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[0303] Mention may notably be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol . Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4 13 1 576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacryl amidopropyl tri methyl ammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may be made most particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxy ethylcelluloses, the quaternizing agent notably possibly being diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxy ethyl cellulose.

[0304] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.

[0305] A particularly preferred cationic cellulose that may notably be mentioned is the polymer having the INCI name Polyquaternium- 10.

[0306] The cationic galactomannan gums are notably described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 03 1 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, notably those compri sing cationic trialkylammonium groups, notably trimethylammonium . Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3 -epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).

[0307] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3 -epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used. Mention may be made in particular of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C 13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C 162 by the company Solvay.

[0308] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, notably those including quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0309] (3) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and al so the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0310] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized. (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl . Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / di ethylenetri amine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

[0311] (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8 : 1 and 1.4 : 1 ; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5 : 1 and 1.8 : 1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.

[0312] (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II) : in which - k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ;

[0313] - R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0314] - RI O and R1 1 , independently of each other, denote a C 1 -C6 alkyl group, a C 1 -C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C 1 -C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively RI O and Rl l may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; RI O and Rl l , independently of each other, preferably denote a C 1 -C4 alkyl group;

[0315] - Y- i s an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0316] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) (INCI name Polyquaternium-6) for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name Polyquaternium- 7), notably sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR.

[0317] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula: in which:

[0318] - R13 , R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C 1 -C 12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals; or else R13 , R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally compri sing a second non-nitrogen heteroatom; or else R13 , R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C 1 -C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17- D or -C0-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0319] - Al and B l represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, di sulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0320] - X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Al , R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B l may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting : a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and [CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3 )-, in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0321] Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000. Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula: in which Rl , R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0322] A particularly preferred compound is the one for which Rl , R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n = 3 , p = 6 and X = Cl, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

[0323] (9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula: in which:

[0324] - R18, R19, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, P-hydroxy ethyl, P- hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0325] - r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

[0326] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0327] - X- denotes an anion such as a halide, - A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2- CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0328] Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD I , Mirapol® AZ 1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol .

[0329] ( 10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

[0330] ( 1 1 ) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol ( 15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.

[0331] ( 12) polymers including in their structure :

[0332] (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

[0333] (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below: (B) ii -H O

[0334] In other words, these polymers may notably be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

[0335] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0336] These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.

[0337] The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g / mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g / mol .

[0338] The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF; for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0339] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention compri ses one or more cationic polymers chosen, alone or as a mixture, from polymers of family (7) and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride), notably the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) such as Polyquaternium-6.

[0340] When it comprises one or more cationic polymers as conditioning agent, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0. 1 % to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, or even from 1 % to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0341] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may compri se the cationic polymer(s) chosen from polymers of the family (7), in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0. 1 % to 4% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3 % by weight, or even from 1 % to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0342] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may compri se the cationic polymer(s) chosen from the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride), notably Polyquaternium-6, in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0. 1 % to 4% by weight, even better still from 0. 1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0343] In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of cationic polymers.

[0344] Optional additive(s)

[0345] The composition of the invention may also contain various additives conventionally used in hair compositions.

[0346] As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of anionic or non-ionic polymers, amphoteric polymers, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and / or for promoting hair regrowth, fatty substances, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or nacreous agents, perlizing agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0347] The above additives are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01 % and 40% by weight, and preferably between 0. 1 % and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition of the invention.

[0348] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additive(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).

[0349] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition compri ses: a) at least one alkali metal carbonate, preferably sodium carbonate, more preferably in a total amount of 0. 1 to 30% by weight , preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 15% by weight, better from 0,8 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, even better still from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; b) calcium hydroxide, preferably in a total amount of 1 .4 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1.4 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1.4 to 15% by weight, better from 1.4 to 10% by weight, better still from 1.4 to 5% by weight, even better still from 1.4 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; c) sodium or potassium metasilicate, preferably in a total amount of 0. 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 0.8 to 15% by weight, better from 0.8 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and d) one or more fatty substance(s), preferably at least one liquid fatty substance selected from liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably C 15-C 19 alkanes and octyldodecanol, and at least one solid fatty substance selected from solid fatty alcohols and butters, and mixtures thereof, better still from cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), and mixtures thereof, wherein the total amount of the fatty sub stance(s) in the composition ranges preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 60% by weight, better from 30 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the latter fatty substances include optionally up to 30% by weight of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably up to 5%, better still up to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0350] In another preferred embodiment, the composition further compri ses:

[0351] (e) one or more surfactants chosen from non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C I O to C 18 alcohols comprising from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide; (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines and compounds of formula (XV); more preferably chosen from steareth-20, steareth-21 , cocoylamidopropylbetaine, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, wherein the total amount of surfactants range(s) preferably from 0. 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 10%, better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or

[0352] (f) one or more polyols, preferably a saturated linear C2-C6 diol, more preferably propylene glycol, even more preferably in a total amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, or even from 1 % to 5% by weight, preferentially from 1 % to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0353] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for straightening keratin fibres, which consists in applying to the said keratin fibres a composition according to the invention as described above, and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing.

[0354] The leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres may range from a few seconds to 40 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, more preferably from 3 minutes to 30 minutes, even more preferably from 10 to 25 minutes.

[0355] The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres.

[0356] Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as described above for straightening keratin fibres.

[0357] In the present invention, the term “keratin fibres” denotes human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair such as hair (of the head).

[0358] In the above description, all the preferred embodiments with regard to the components may be used individually or in combination.

[0359] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention. Examples

[0360] In the examples that follow and unless otherwi se indicated, the amounts are given as weight percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0361] Example 1

[0362] The compositions C l to C4, and C6 according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 below.

[0363] [Table 1] The composition C3 according to the invention and a comparative composition C5 were used.

[0364] Composition C3 according to the invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 above (wt. % of AM). The composition C5 is a commercial product (Dark and Lovely Superior Moisture Plus Relaxer Kit, Regular No Lye Relaxer Kit, comprising of a mix system of guanidine carbonate (cream base) and calcium hydroxide (activator)).

[0365] The following protocol was as follows :

[0366] Each of the compositions was applied on fine-to-medium or medium-to-coarse hair, curl type 6+ with an applicator brush and then twice smoothed with the back of a tail comb . A quantity of - 120 g of composition was used per half head. The half head was then left for up to 22 minutes, but not exceeding 30 minutes.

[0367] The half head was then rinsed under tap water. A neutralizing shampoo was then applied to the hair. A quantity of 10 g of shampoo was used per half head.

[0368] Each half head was then finally blow dried.

[0369] Scalp comfort

[0370] The scalp comfort was evaluated by a panel of 8 consumers. Sensitivity on scalp could be progressively experienced in 3 stages: itching, stinging, and burning.

[0371] The panel gives an overall assessment according to the following rating scale from 5 * to 1 * : 5 * : no discomfort;

[0372] 4* : little discomfort;

[0373] 3 * : medium discomfort;

[0374] 2* : significant discomfort; 1 * : very high di scomfort.

[0375] The results are gathered in Table 2 below. [Table 2]

[0376] It appears that the composition C3 according to the invention i s more comfortable compared to the commercial product. In particular, the itching, stinging and burning feeling was reduced when using the composition according to the invention.

[0377] Remarkedly, the hair treated with the composition of the invention were more shiny after blow dry.

[0378] Globally, the straightening performances were comparable, and the resulting hair exhibits good volume in both cases.

[0379] Two weeks after the treatment, the good performances in terms of the straightening of keratin fibres were maintained in both cases. No reversion was observed. However, after one shampoo, the resulting dry hair looks more bodified, strong and healthy with the composition according to the invention.

[0380] Six weeks after the treatment, the properties in terms of straightening were better for the hair treated with the composition of the invention. The cosmetics properties were also better: the hair looks more bodified and healthy with the composition of the invention.

[0381] In conclusion, the composition of the invention provides comparable straightening performances and a better scalp comfort as compared to the commercial composition containing petrolatum and mineral oil . Regarding the long lasting straightness, it was better 6 weeks later for the hair treated with the composition of the invention; the hair looked healthier as well .

[0382] Example 3

[0383] Stability of the formulas

[0384] The stability of Formulas C2, C3 , C4 and C6 according to the invention was evaluated at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C for one and two months. The stability results were assessed considering the following parameters : physical aspect, color, odour, pH, viscosity, alkalinity of the formulations. The following scoring was used: o = Conform (all the parameters fall within specification range) o* = Acceptable (at least one parameter was slightly out of specification range but still allowable) x = Non-conform (one or several parameters were out of specification range)

[0385] The last column of the Table 3 shows a scoring of the straightening performances of the relaxer formulas applied on the hair according to the method described in Example 2. The observation of the straightening performances was made on wet hair, i . e. after rinsing the treated hair under tap water and then washing with shampoo. The following levels of increased straightness / curl breakdown were considered:

[0386] 1. Texturized (slight opening of the curls)

[0387] 2. S (treated hair displays a S shape)

[0388] 3. C (treated hair di splays a C shape)

[0389] 4. Flat (no curl observed, flat look)

[0390] The best straightening performance corresponds to the Flat level . Observation between C and Flat indicates a high level of performance.

[0391] [Table 3]

[0392] All the compositions tested were stable over 2 months at 37°C . The addition of octyldodecanol improved the level of straightening performance but altered the stability at 45 °C over one month.

[0393] Formula C4 comprising octyldodecanol and more than 1.5% by weight of cationic surfactant showed a high level of straightening performance as well as a good stability at 45°C over 2 months.

[0394] In conclusion, we ob serve that the stability of the composition is improved by increasing the concentration of the cationic surfactant above 1.5%. The stability of the composition can also be improved by increasing the concentration of non-ionic and / or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Composition comprising: a) at least one alkali metal carbonate; b) calcium hydroxide; c) sodium or potassium metasilicate; and d) one or more fatty substance(s); wherein the latter fatty substances include optionally up to 30% by weight of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the total amount of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly is below 30% by weight, preferably below 20% by weight, more preferably below 10% by weight, better below 5% by weight, better still below 1 % by weight, even more preferably the fatty substance(s) does (do) not include mineral oil, nor petrolatum j elly .

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of calcium hydroxide b) is of at least 1.4% by weight, preferably it ranges from 1.4 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1.4 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1.4 to 15% by weight, better from 1 .4 to 10% by weight, better still from 1.4 to 5% by weight, even better still from 1.4 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of alkali metal carbonate(s) a) and sodium or potassium metasilicate c) i s of at least 2.6% by weight, preferably it ranges from 2.6 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2.6 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 2.6 to 15% by weight, better from 2.6 to 10% by weight, better still from 2.6 to 5% by weight, even better still from 3 to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of alkali metal carbonate(s) a) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 15% by weight, better from 0.8 to 10% by weight,better still from 1 to 5% by weight, even better still from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of sodium or potassium metasilicate c) ranges from 0. 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 15% by weight, better from 0.8 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of said fatty substance, preferably selected from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 60% by weight, better from 30 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to claim 9 wherein the solid fatty substances are chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, waxes, butters, ceramides, solid monoglycerides, diglycerides or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from solid fatty alcohols, butters, ceramides and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from solid fatty alcohols and butters, better still from cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), and mixtures thereof, better still the solid fatty substances do not include solid fatty acids, nor solid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides, and / or preferably the total amount of the solid fatty substance(s) ranges from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 5 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, better from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to claim 9 wherein the liquid fatty substances are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, more preferably C 15-C 19 alkanes, squalane, octyldodecanoland mixture thereof, even more preferably C 15-C 19 alkanes and octyldodecanol, better still the liquid fatty substances do not include liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides, and / or preferably the total amount of the liquid fatty substance(s) ranges from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 5 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, better from 20 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to claim 9, comprising at least one liquid fatty alcohol, preferably octyldodecanol, more preferably in an amount ranging from 0. 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 9 to 16 compri sing at least one solid fatty substance and at least one liquid fatty substance, preferably at least one solid fatty alcohol and at least one liquid fatty substance selected from liquid fatty alcohol, liquid hydrocarbon and mixtures thereof, wherein the (solid fatty alcohol / liquid fatty substance) weight ratio i s higher than or equal to 0.2, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 2, more preferably from 0.3 to 1.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, more preferably steareth-20, steareth- 21 , cocamidopropyl betaine, behentrimonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof, even more preferably in a total amount ranging from 0. 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10%, better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any of claims 12, wherein it compri ses cationic surfactants, preferably behentrimonium methosulfate, more preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0. 1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 2% by weight, better 1.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Treatment process, especially for straightening keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, wherein a composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied to said keratin fibres.

15. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 22 for straightening keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres.

16. Hair relaxing composition compri sing at least one hydroxide- containing active ingredient and one or more fatty substance(s); wherein the latter fatty substances include optionally up to 30% by weight of mineral oil and / or petrolatum j elly relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably below 20% by weight, more preferably below 10% by weight, better below 5% by weight, better still below 1 % by weight, even more preferably the fatty substance(s) does (do) not include mineral oil, nor petrolatum j elly.

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