Aqueous wax dispersion
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2025/073893
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2025-04-07
- Filing Date
- 2025-08-21
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-05
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic formulations for skin and hair lack stable, non-shiny opacifiers that provide a white cloudy appearance and conditioning effects, with many opacifiers being non-biodegradable and prone to separation during storage.
An aqueous wax dispersion comprising ethylene glycol fatty acid ester, fatty acid partial glyceride, and sugar-based nonionic surfactant, optimized for fine particle size and viscosity, which serves as an opacifying and conditioning agent in personal care compositions.
The dispersion achieves sustained white cloudiness without pearlescence, enhances conditioning effects, and improves combability and tactile properties of hair, while being biodegradable and storage-stable.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] Aqueous wax dispersion
[0002] Field of the Invention
[0003] This invention relates to an aqueous wax dispersion suitable as an opacifying agent for a personal care composition, a process for producing the aqueous wax dispersion, a use of the aqueous wax dispersion as an opacifying agent in a personal care composition, a use of the aqueous wax dispersion as a conditioning agent in a personal care composition and a personal care composition containing the aqueous wax dispersion.
[0004] Prior Art
[0005] Cosmetic formulations for the skin and hair, such as hair shampoos, hair conditioners or liquid hand soap, are also commonly formulated differently in terms of their visual appearance. What are usually desired are products having a mica or pearlescent effect, or products that have a white cloudy appearance but are not shiny and are usually described as "milky". The effect of white cloudiness is usually achieved by adding what are called "opacifiers". For a homogeneous appearance, one feature that opacifiers must have is that of being finely divided. Furthermore, they must be homogeneously distributable in the cosmetic formulations and must not lose cloudiness or even separate in the course of storage.
[0006] Typical opacifiers are dispersions of finely divided polymers or solids that comprise essentially only a wax body and a suitable emulsifier, in addition to water and / or a polyol such as glycerol. The opacifiers known from the prior art are often based on copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and styrene as wax body and are non-biodegradable.
[0007] WO 96 / 30476 A1 discloses opacifier concentrates based on wax bodies, sugar surfactants and partial glycerides that have good biodegradabilities, but are in need of improvement with regard to fine division.
[0008] The objective of the invention was therefore to provide an aqueous wax dispersion that at least partially overcomes one or more disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, the wax dispersion should have good opacifying properties. Furthermore, the wax dispersion should have good processing properties. In addition, the wax dispersion should have a conditioning effect such as improved wet and dry combability in hair shampoos, or a pleasant, soft physical feel for haircare products. A further aim was to provide a storage-stable wax dispersion that shows unchanged white cloudiness in uniform quality over a long period. All or some of these tasks are solved according to the invention by an aqueous wax dispersion according to claim 1 , a process according to claim 12, a use according to claim 13, a use according to claim 14 ora personal care composition according to claim 15. Advantageous embodiments of the invention are given in the dependent claims and are explained in detail below.
[0009] Description of the invention
[0010] The invention relates to an aqueous wax dispersion suitable as an opacifying agent for a personal care composition, wherein the wax dispersion contains, in each case based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, a) 7.5 to 35 wt.% ethylene glycol fatty acid ester, b) 0.1 to 10 wt.% fatty acid partial glyceride and c) 18 to 40 wt.% sugar based nonionic surfactant.
[0011] Surprisingly, it was found that such a composition leads to very small particle sizes and thus to a good whiteness and opacifying properties. Without wishing to be bound by any particular scientific theory, the particle sizes appear to be attributable to the amount of sugar based nonionic surfactant c) and the ratios of the components.
[0012] Further, it was experimentally found that such wax dispersions lead to a good viscosity that enables a good applicability of the wax dispersion in personal care compositions.
[0013] “Opacifiers”, which are also referred to as Whiteners, in the context of the present invention are agents that give rise to white cloudiness without pearlescence.
[0014] In the context of the present invention, "conditioners" are compositions in the field of cosmetic formulations that show a conditioning effect when applied to the hair and / or skin. In the context of the present invention, compositions have a conditioning effect on the skin when they give rise to a positive skinfeel after direct contact with the human skin, which is assessed positively by testers in practice, such as in panel tests with sensory impressions in relation to particular parameters such as "dryness of the skin", "softness of the skin". In the context of the present invention, the compositions have a conditioning effect on hair when the show improved combability after treatment thereof. Better combability can occur in the wet and / or dry state, both over the length and in the tips (called disentanglability) of the hair. Conditioning compositions also improve tactile properties of the hair, such as smoothness, softness, suppleness, hair shine, lower electrostatic charge and better shapeability.
[0015] The aqueous wax dispersion of the present invention comprises an ethylene glycol fatty acid ester a). Ethylene glycol fatty acid esters follow the general formula R1CO-OCH2CH2O-OCR2and are preparable by esterification of ethylene glycol with fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the ethylene glycol fatty acid ester a) is mono- and / or diester of ethylene glycol with fatty acids containing 12 to 22, in particular 16 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular wherein the fatty acids contain, based on the total weight of the fatty acids, 85 to 100 wt.% stearic acid.
[0016] Preferably, the fatty acids in the ethylene glycol fatty acid ester a) consist of, in each case based on the total weight of the fatty acids, 90 to 96 wt.% of stearic acid and 4 to 10 wt.% of other saturated fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Other saturated fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms are palmitic acid, arachic acid and behenic acid.
[0017] Ethylene glycol fatty acid esters that are preferred in the context of the invention are ethylene glycol fatty acid diesters which, for technical reasons, comprise, based on the total weight of the ethylene glycol fatty acid ester, 90 to 100 wt.% ethylene glycol fatty acid diesters and 0 to 10 wt.% ethylene glycol fatty acid monoesters.
[0018] Such ethylene glycol fatty acid esters having a preferred ethylene glycol di-fatty acid content and stearic acid content in the fatty acid mixture are available on the market under the Cegesoft® Peel brand name, BASF.
[0019] Particularly suitable ethylene glycol fatty acid esters are those that have a melting point in the range from 72 to 80° C.
[0020] Ethylene glycol fatty acid ester that shows some or all of the above-mentioned properties leads to a particularly fine particle size and thus to a high whiteness and opacity of the wax dispersion.
[0021] The aqueous wax dispersion of the present invention comprises a fatty acid partial glyceride b). Fatty acid partial glycerides in the context of the invention are monoglycerides, diglycerides and technical grade mixtures thereof, which, as a result of preparation, may also comprise small amounts of glycerol and triglycerides. Preferred technical grade mixtures of fatty acid partial glycerides b) are those that have a monoglyceride content in the range from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably 60% to 90%, by weight, and are also referred to hereinafter as glycerol fatty acid monoesters.
[0022] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid partial glyceride b) is a glycerol mono fatty acid ester, in particular is a glycerol mono fatty acid ester of a fatty acid mixture which contains, based on the total weight of the fatty acid mixture, 90 to 100 wt.% of oleic acid.
[0023] In the context of the present invention, preference is given to fatty acid partial glycerides (b) selected from the group formed by glycerol fatty acid monoesters, wherein suitable fatty acids are lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palm oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, and technical grade mixtures thereof. Particular preference is given to glycerol fatty acid monoesters, wherein the fatty acids have 12 to 18 carbon atoms, preference being given to (b) a glycerol fatty acid monoester of a fatty acid mixture comprising 90 to 100 wt.% oleic acid - based on the total weight of the fatty acid mixture.
[0024] An example of a suitable technical grade product on the market is Monomuls® 90-0 18, a commercial product from BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH.
[0025] Aqueous wax dispersions comprising glycerol monooleate, which is particularly preferred, show low viscosities, which is advantageous for processing and pumpability.
[0026] The aqueous wax dispersion of the present invention comprises a sugar based nonionic surfactant c).
[0027] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the sugar based nonionic surfactant c) is selected from the group consisting of alk(en)yl polyglycosides, glucuronic acid derivatives and fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, in particular is alkyl polyglycoside, in particular is alkyl polyglucoside.
[0028] Examples for glucuronic acid derivates and fatty acid N-alkylglucamides are N-alkylglucamides derived from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to the use of a N-methyl glucamides and especially on the basis of a technical C12 - C14 - coconut fatty acid fraction. Suitable products are GlucoPure®Foam or Glu- coPure®Sense obtainable by Clariant.
[0029] Alkyl polyglycosides are known nonionic surfactants which have in particular the formula (I),
[0030] R3O-[G]P(I) in which
[0031] R3is an alkyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms,
[0032] G is a sugar radical having five or six carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10.
[0033] They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl polyglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. The preferred alkyl polyglycosides are therefore alkyl polyglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (I) specifies the degree of polymerization (DP), i.e. the distribution of mono- and polyglycosides, and is a number between 1 and 10. Whereas p in a given compound must always be an integer and can here in particular assume the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a particular alkyl polyglycoside is an analytically determined calculated parameter which in most cases is a fraction. Preferably, alkyl polyglycosides are used with an average degree of polymerization p of 1.1 to 3.0. Preference is given to those alkyl polyglycosides, from a technical applications point of view, for which the degree of polymerization is less than 1.7 and is particularly between 1.2 and 1.7.
[0034] The alkyl radical R3can be derived from primary alcohols having 6 to 22, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, decyl alcohol and undecyl alcohol, and also their technical grade mixtures, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical grade fatty acid methyl esters or during the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. The alkyl radical R3can also be derived from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and also technical grade mixtures thereof.
[0035] In the context of the present invention, preference is given in particular to mixtures of different alkyl polyglycosides of the formula (I), in which R3is derived from primary alcohol mixtures. According to one embodiment R3is derived from primary alcohol mixtures comprising 90 to 100 wt.% 10 to 16 carbon atoms, based on the total weight of carbon atoms in the primary alcohol mixtures. A suitable product is Plantacare® 1200 UP obtainable by BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH.
[0036] According to another embodiment R3is derived from primary alcohol mixtures comprising 90 to 100 wt.% 8 to 10 carbon atoms, based on the total weight of carbon atoms in the primary alcohol mixtures. A suitable product is Plantacare® 810 UP obtainable by BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH.
[0037] In a preferred embodiment, the sugar based nonionic surfactant is alkyl polyglucoside, wherein R3is derived from primary alcohol mixtures comprising, in each case based on the total weight of carbon atoms in the primary alcohol mixtures, 10 to 95 wt.% 10 to 16 carbon atoms and 5 to 90 wt.% 8 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular 50 to 90 wt.% 10 to 16 carbon atoms and 10 to 50 wt.% 8 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular 70 to 90 wt.% 10 to 16 carbon atoms and 10 to 30 wt.% 8 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0038] Sugar based nonionic surfactant that shows some or all of the above-mentioned properties leads to a particularly fine particle size and thus to a high whiteness and opacity of the wax dispersion. The aqueous wax dispersion according to the invention contains, based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, 7.5 to 35 wt.% ethylene glycol fatty acid ester a).
[0039] In a preferred embodiment the aqueous wax dispersion contains, based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, 10 to 30 wt.%, in particular 15 to 25 wt.% ethylene glycol fatty ester a).
[0040] The aqueous wax dispersion according to the invention contains, based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, 0.1 to 10 wt.% fatty acid partial glyceride b).
[0041] In a preferred embodiment the aqueous wax dispersion contains, based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, 0.5 to 5 wt.%, in particular 1 to 3 wt.% fatty acid partial glyceride b).
[0042] The aqueous wax dispersion according to the invention contains, based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, 18 to 40 wt.% sugar based nonionic surfactant c).
[0043] In a preferred embodiment the aqueous wax dispersion contains, based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, 18 to 35 wt.%, in particular 20 to 30 wt.% sugar based nonionic surfactant c).
[0044] In a particularly preferred embodiment the aqueous wax dispersion contains, based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, 21 to 30 wt.%, in particular 22 to 30 wt.%, 23 to 30 wt.%, 23.3 to 30 wt.%, 24 to 30 wt.%, 25 to 30 wt.% or 26 to 30 wt.% sugar based nonionic surfactant c).
[0045] Preferably, the weight ratio of fatty acid partial glyceride b) to sugar based nonionic surfactant c) is in the range of 1 :30 to 1 : 10, in particular 1 :20 to 1 : 16.
[0046] The above-mentioned amounts lead to a particularly fine particle size and thus to a high whiteness and opacity of the wax dispersion. In addition, a good viscosity is achieved that enables a good applicability of the wax dispersion in personal care compositions.
[0047] In a preferred embodiment, the aqueous wax dispersion does not contain sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium pareth sulfate, in particular does not contain a sulfate-based surfactant.
[0048] Preferably, the aqueous wax dispersion contains, based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, 0.1 to 10 wt.%, in particular 0.1 to 5 wt.% pH regulator, in particular organic acid, in particular alpha hydroxyl acid, in particular lactic acid and / or citric acid, in particular citric acid. This acid leads to the desired pH of the wax dispersion.
[0049] Optionally, the aqueous wax dispersion contains preservatives. Examples of suitable preservatives are benzoates, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol, sorbic acid, levulinic acid and arachidonic acid, and also the silver complexes known under the Surfacine® name, and the additional substance classes listed in Annex 6, parts A and B, of the Cosmetics Directive. Examples of suitable pH regulators are the compatible acids or bases known in the cosmetics industry, which are likewise listed in the Cosmetics Directive.
[0050] In another preferred embodiment the aqueous wax dispersion is free of preservatives. Surprisingly, this aqueous wax dispersion according to the invention is stable without preservatives.
[0051] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous wax dispersion is an aqueous wax dispersion containing, in each case based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, a) 10 to 30 wt.%, in particular 15 to 25 wt.% ethylene glycol fatty ester, b) 0.5 to 5 wt.%, in particular 1 to 3 wt.% fatty acid partial glyceride, c) 18 to 35 wt.%, in particular 20 to 30 wt.% sugar based nonionic surfactant d) 0.1 to 10 wt.%, in particular 0.1 to 5 wt.% pH regulator and e) 0 to 1.5 wt.% preservative.
[0052] In a more preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous wax dispersion is an aqueous wax dispersion containing, in each case based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, a) 10 to 30 wt.%, in particular 15 to 25 wt.% ethylene glycol fatty ester, b) 0.5 to 5 wt.%, in particular 1 to 3 wt.% fatty acid partial glyceride, c) 18 to 35 wt.%, in particular 20 to 30 wt.% sugar based nonionic surfactant, d) 0.1 to 10 wt.%, in particular 0.1 to 5 wt.% pH regulator and e) 0 to 1.5 wt.% preservative, wherein the ethylene glycol fatty acid ester a) is mono- and / or diester of ethylene glycol with fatty acids containing 12 to 22, in particular 16 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular wherein the fatty acids contain, based on the total weight of the fatty acids, 85 to 100 wt.% stearic acid, wherein the fatty acid partial glyceride b) is a glycerol mono fatty acid ester, in particular is a glycerol mono fatty acid ester of a fatty acid mixture which contains, based on the total weight of the fatty acid mixture, 90 to 100 wt.% of oleic acid, wherein the sugar based nonionic surfactant c) is selected from the group consisting of alk(en)yl polyglycosides, glucuronic acid derivatives and fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, in particular is alkyl polyglycoside, in particular is alkyl polyglucoside. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous wax dispersion is an aqueous wax dispersion consisting of, in each case based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, a) 15 to 25 wt.% ethylene glycol fatty ester, b) 1 to 3 wt.% fatty acid partial glyceride, c) 20 to 30 wt.% sugar based nonionic surfactant, d) 0.1 to 5 wt.% pH regulator, e) 0 to 1.5 wt.% preservative and f) water, wherein the ethylene glycol fatty acid ester a) is mono- and / or diester of ethylene glycol with fatty acids, wherein the fatty acids contain, based on the total weight of the fatty acids, 85 to 100 wt.% stearic acid, wherein the fatty acid partial glyceride b) is a glycerol mono fatty acid ester of a fatty acid mixture which contains, based on the total weight of the fatty acid mixture, 90 to 100 wt.% of oleic acid, wherein the sugar based nonionic surfactant c) is alkyl polyglucoside with the formula R3O-[G]Pin which
[0053] - R3is an alkyl radical, wherein R3is derived from primary alcohol mixtures comprising, in each case based on the total weight of carbon atoms in the primary alcohol mixtures, 70 to 90 wt.% 10 to 16 carbon atoms and 10 to 30 wt.% 8 to 10 carbon atoms,
[0054] - G is a sugar radical having five or six carbon atoms and
[0055] - p is a number from 1 to 10, wherein the pH regulator is an organic acid.
[0056] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous wax dispersion is an aqueous wax dispersion consisting of, in each case based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, a) 15 to 25 wt.% ethylene glycol fatty ester, b) 1 to 3 wt.% fatty acid partial glyceride, c) 25 to 30 wt.% sugar based nonionic surfactant, d) 0.1 to 5 wt.% pH regulator and f) water, wherein the ethylene glycol fatty acid ester a) is mono- and / or diester of ethylene glycol with fatty acids, wherein the fatty acids contain, based on the total weight of the fatty acids, 85 to 100 wt.% stearic acid, wherein the fatty acid partial glyceride b) is a glycerol mono fatty acid ester of a fatty acid mixture which contains, based on the total weight of the fatty acid mixture, 90 to 100 wt.% of oleic acid, wherein the sugar based nonionic surfactant c) is alkyl polyglucoside with the formula R3O-[G]Pin which - R3is an alkyl radical, wherein R3is derived from primary alcohol mixtures comprising, in each case based on the total weight of carbon atoms in the primary alcohol mixtures, 70 to 90 wt.% 10 to 16 carbon atoms and 10 to 30 wt.% 8 to 10 carbon atoms,
[0057] - G is a sugar radical having five or six carbon atoms and
[0058] - p is a number from 1 to 10, wherein the pH regulator is an organic acid.
[0059] The sum of all components of the inventive aqueous wax dispersion is 100 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion. According to a preferred embodiment of the wax dispersion, the missing amount to 100 wt.% is water.
[0060] In a preferred embodiment, the aqueous wax dispersion has an average particle size d50, measured via laser diffraction by Mastersizer 2000®, of 0.8 to 3.5 pm, in particular 1 .0 to 3.0 pm.
[0061] In the context of the present invention, median particle size (d50) and particle size distribution in pm were determined by means of laser diffraction with the Mastersizer® 2000 instrument and the corresponding product description from MALVERN INSTRUMENTS GmbH, Marie-Curie-StraBe 4 / 1 , 71083 Herrenberg, Germany.
[0062] This particle size leads to a fine division of the particles and thus to a high whiteness and opacity of the wax dispersion.
[0063] Preferably, the aqueous wax dispersion has a viscosity determined by Brookfield, RVT with spindle 5 at 10 rpm and 20 °C of 5 000 to 30 000 mPas, in particular 10 000 to 20 000 mPas.
[0064] Such an advantageous viscosity leads to a good processability and pumpability.
[0065] The present invention further provides a process for producing the aqueous wax dispersion comprising the steps: i) heating water to a temperature of 85 °C to 90 °C, ii) adding components a), b) and c) to the water, iii) cooling to room temperature while stirring.
[0066] Further, the present invention relates to the use of the aqueous wax dispersion as an opacifying agent in a personal care composition, in particular in a personal care composition for hair treatment.
[0067] Personal care compositions for hair treatment are understood to mean hair shampoos, hair lotions, hair tonics, hair rinses, hairdrying lotions, hair milk or else formulations for the care of eyebrows and eyelashes. The wax dispersions of the invention are preferably used in amounts of 1 to 5 wt.% - based on the total weight of the personal care composition for hair treatment.
[0068] The wax dispersions of the invention cause sustained, homogeneous and, compared to the prior art, particularly intense white cloudiness without generating pearlescence, and, in particular, they also show excellent conditioning effects, such that it is possible if desired to wholly or partly dispense with further conditioning constituents in the personal care formulations for hair treatment. In addition, the present invention relates to the use of the aqueous wax dispersion as a conditioning agent in a personal care composition, in particular for improving wet and / or dry combability in a personal care composition for hair treatment.
[0069] In particular, the inventive aqueous wax dispersion boosts the conditioning performance of a cationic polymer.
[0070] Finally, the present invention relates to a personal care composition containing
[0071] A) the inventive aqueous wax dispersion,
[0072] B) one or more surfactants selected from the group of anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and zwitterionic surfactants,
[0073] C) optionally cationic polymer,
[0074] D) optionally other component(s).
[0075] The following amounts are preferably present in the personal care composition, in each case based on the total weight of the personal care composition:
[0076] A) 0.5 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 1 .0 to 4.0 wt.% inventive aqueous wax dispersion,
[0077] B) 1.0 to 25.0 wt.%, preferably 7.5 to 15 wt.% surfactants selected from the group of anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and zwitterionic surfactants,
[0078] C) 0.01 to 1 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 0.4 wt.% cationic polymer,
[0079] D) 0 to 10 wt.% other component(s).
[0080] Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzenesulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, a-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sar- cosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (particularly wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, the polyglycol ether chains may have a conventional homolog distribution, although they preferably have a narrow homolog distribution. The anionic surfactants used are more preferably fatty alcohol (ether) sulfates and especially lauryl ether sulfate with 1 or 2 mol of ethylene oxide.
[0081] In particular, fatty alcohol (ether) sulfates of the general formula (II),
[0082] R4O (CH2CH20)o-ioS03Y (II) in which R4is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and Y is an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium. If the number is zero (=0), this is fatty alcohol sulphate. Fatty alcohol ether sulphates (number from 1 to 10) are preferred. Typical examples are the sulphates of investment products of on average 1 to 10 and in particular 2 to 5 mol ethylene oxide of capron alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capri alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures in the form of their sodium and / or magnesium salts. The fatty alcohol (ether) sulfates may have both a conventional and a narrowed homologue distribution. It is particularly preferred to use fatty alcohol ether sulfates based on adducts of, on average, 1 to 6 mol and preferably 1 to 3 mol ethylene oxide with lauryl ether sulfate, preferably with technical Ci2 / 14, or Ci2 / is coconut fatty alcohol fractions in the form of their sodium and / or magnesium salts.
[0083] A suitable technical product on the market, for example, is Texapon® N70, a retail product of BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH.
[0084] Alkyl ether sulfates (“ether sulfates”) are known anionic surfactants which, on an industrial scale, are produced by SO3 or chlorosulfonic acid (CSA) sulfation of fatty alcohol or oxoalcohol polyglycol ethers and subsequent neutralization. The ether sulfates may have both a conventional homolog distribution and a narrow homolog distribution. It is particularly preferred to use ether sulfates based on adducts of, on average, 1 to 6 mol and preferably 1 to 3 mol ethylene oxide with technical Ci2 / 14 or Ci2 / is coconut fatty alcohol fractions in the form of their sodium and / or magnesium salts.
[0085] Further anionic surfactants useful within the context of the present invention are alpha-sulfo fatty acid di salts according to the formula (III) R5CH(SO3M1)COOM2(III), in which the radical R5is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 18 carbon atoms and the radicals M1and M2- independently of one another - are selected from the group comprising H, Li, Na, K, Ca / 2, Mg / 2, ammonium and alkanolamines. In this connection, particularly preferred alkanolamines are monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine and monoisopropanolamine.
[0086] In a preferred embodiment, the radical R5in the formula (III) is a saturated, linear alkyl radical having 10 to 16 carbon atoms. The radicals M1and M2in formula (III) are preferably selected from the group comprising H (hydrogen) and Na (sodium).
[0087] The compounds can be prepared by all methods known appropriately to those skilled in the art. A particularly preferred method of preparation here is the sulfation of the corresponding carboxylic acids. Here, the corresponding carboxylic acid and in particular the corresponding fatty acids are reacted with gaseous sulfur trioxide, the sulfur trioxide being used preferably in an amount such that the molar ratio of SO3to fatty acid is in the range from 1.0 : 1 to 1.1 : 1. The crude products obtained in this way, which are acidic sulfation products, are then partially or completely neutralized, preference being given to complete neutralization with aqueous NaOH. If desired, it is also possible to undertake purification steps and / or a bleaching (for adjusting the desired pale color of the products).
[0088] Preferred alpha-sulfo fatty acid di salts are technical-grade mixtures of the alpha-sulfo fatty acid desalts, which is commercially available as Texapon® SFA from BASF Personal Care Nutrition GmbH.
[0089] In addition, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants may be used in addition with or instead of the anionic surfactants, especially amphoacetates and / or betaines.
[0090] Betaines are known surfactants which are mainly produced by carboxyalkylation, preferably carboxymethylation, of aminic compounds. The starting materials are preferably condensed with halocarboxylic acids or salts thereof, more particularly with sodium chloroacetate. Examples of suitable betaines are the carboxyalkylation products of secondary and, in particular, tertiary amines corresponding to formula (IV): R7
[0091] I
[0092] R6-N-(CH2)nCOOX (IV)
[0093] I
[0094] R8in which R6stands for alkyl and / or alkenyl groups containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R7stands for hydrogen or alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R8stands for alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n is a number of 1 to 6 and X is an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal or ammonium. Typical examples are the carboxymethylation products of hexyl methyl amine, hexyl dimethyl amine, octyl dimethyl amine, decyl dimethyl amine, dodecyl methyl amine, dodecyl dimethyl amine, dodecyl ethyl methyl amine, C12 / 14 cocoalkyl dimethyl amine, myristyl dimethyl amine, cetyl dimethyl amine, stearyl dimethyl amine, stearyl ethyl methyl amine, oleyl dimethyl amine, C16 / 18 tallow alkyl dimethyl amine and technical mixtures thereof.
[0095] Other suitable betaines are carboxyalkylation products of amidoamines corresponding to formula (V):
[0096] R10
[0097] I
[0098] R9CO-NH-(CH2)m-N-(CH2)nCOOX (V)
[0099] I
[0100] R11in which R9CO is an aliphatic acyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 or 1 to 3 double bonds, m is a number of 1 to 3, R10represents hydrogen or C1-4 alkyl groups, R11represents C1-4 alkyl groups, n is a number of 1 to 6 and X is an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal or ammonium. Typical examples are reaction products of fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, namely caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof, with N,N-dimethyl aminoethyl amine, N,N-dimethyl aminopropyl amine, N,N- diethyl aminoethyl amine and N, N-diethyl aminopropyl amine which are condensed with sodium chloroacetate. It is preferred to use a condensation product of Cs / is cocofatty acid-N,N-dimethyl aminopropyl amide with sodium chloroacetate known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Betaines distinguished by high purity are particularly preferred; in other words, low-salt betaines with a maximum salt content of 13% by weight, preferably 11% by weight and more particularly 7% by weight - based on active substance - are used. The corresponding salt is dependent on the production of the amphoteric surfactant; in the most common case, it is sodium chloride. In a particularly preferred embodiment, these betaines also have a low content of free fatty acids of at most 4% by weight and preferably at most 3% by weight, based on active substance.
[0101] Furthermore, imidazolinium betaines are also included. These substances are also known substances which can be obtained for example by cyclizing condensation of 1 or 2 mol of fatty acid with polyfunctional amines such as, for example, aminoethylethanolamine (AEEA) or diethylenetriamine. The corresponding carboxyalkylation products are mixtures of different open-chain betaines. Typical examples are condensation products of the abovementioned fatty acids with AEEA, preferably imidazolines based on lauric acid or again Ci2 / i4-coconut fatty acid which are subsequently betainized with sodium chloroacetate.
[0102] Suitable Cocamidopropyl Betaine are commercially available like Dehyton® PK 45 (supplied by BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH).
[0103] In addition, nonionic surfactants may be used in addition with or instead of the anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Suitable nonionic surfactants are surfactants selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohol polyglycol ether, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerol ester; mixed ethers or mixed formals; polysorbates and sugar-based carbohydrates.
[0104] Examples for fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers are alkoxylation, especially ethoxylation and / or propoxylation products of fatty alcohols, especially linear fatty alcohols containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferred are adducts of linear, saturated fatty alcohols with 12 and / or 14 carbon atoms. Especially preferred are fatty alcohol adducts of 1- 7 mol Ethylene oxid and opt. 2-8 mol Propylene oxid. Suitable are the commercial products like Arlypon® F-T, available by BASF Personal Care Nutrition GmbH.
[0105] Examples for ethoxylated fatty acid glycerol ester are partial esters of glycerol with unsaturated, linear or saturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms and adducts thereof with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide; triglycerids, i.e. triesters of glycerol with unsaturated, linear or saturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms and adducts thereof with 1 to 60 mol ethylene oxide;
[0106] Typical examples of suitable ethoxylated partial glycerides are addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide and glycerol partial esterfied with the mentioned fatty acids. Preferred examples hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric acid diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and technical mixtures thereof which may still contain small quantities of triglyceride from the production process.
[0107] Within the ethoxylated fatty acid glycerol esters preference is given to a partial ester of ethoxylated glycerol with a fatty acid mixture derived from coco nut, in particular a mixture of partial esters of ethoxylated glycerol with a fatty acid mixture derived from coco nut, wherein the monoester content in the mixture of mono, di- and triester is more than 40% by weight. Suitable is the commercial product Cetiol® HE, available by BASF Personal Care Nutrition GmbH.
[0108] Typical examples for ethoxylated triglycerides are addition products of 1 to 15 or 15 to 60 mol ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil. Suitable is the commercial product Eumulgin® HRE 40 available by BASF Personal Care Nutrition GmbH.
[0109] Typical examples of polysorbates are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sor- bitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and technical mixtures thereof. Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.
[0110] Examples for mixed ethers or formals are triblockcopolymers containing mono or polymers of Ethylenoxid and polymers of Propylenoxid in three blocks e.g. Pluracare® L44 (Poloxamer124), Pluracare® F 127 (Poloxamer 407).
[0111] Examples for sugar-based carbohydrates are alk(en)yl polyglycosides or glucuronic acid deri- vates and fatty acid N-alkylglucamides.
[0112] Examples for glucuronic acid derivates and fatty acid N-alkylglucamides are N-alkylglucamides derived from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic add, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to the use of a N-methyl glucamides and especially on the basis of a technical C12 - C14 - coconut fatty acid fraction. Suitable products are GlucoPure®Foam or Glu- coPure®Sense obtainable by Clariant.
[0113] Examples for sugar-based carbohydrates are the sugar based nonionic surfactants c) as described above.
[0114] Suitable products are Plantacare® 2000 and Plantacare® 818, both available by BASF Personal Care Nutrition GmbH.
[0115] Preferred personal care compositions also comprise a cationic polymer. These cationic polymers can include at least one of a cationic guar polymer, a cationic non-guar galactomannan polymer, a cationic tapioca polymer, a cationic copolymer of acrylamide monomers and cationic monomers, and / or a synthetic, non-crosslinked, cationic polymer. Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose obtainable from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 400®, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat® L, Grunau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as, for example, Amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®, Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (Merquat® 550, Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and crosslinked water-soluble polymers thereof, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally in microcrystalline distribution, condensation products of dihalo- alkyls, for example dibromobutane, with bis-dialkylamines, for example bis-dimethylamino-1 ,3- propane, cationic guar gum such as, for example, Jaguar®CBS, Jaguar®C-17, Jaguar®C-16 of Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as, for example, Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1 , Mirapol® AZ- 1 of Miranol.
[0116] Especially, the personal care composition may comprise cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of cationically modified cellulose derivatives, PQ 10, PQ 67, cationically modified guar derivatives, such as, for example, Dehyquart® Guar N, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cationic homo- or copolymers based on acrylamide, cationic homo- or copolymers based on vinyl pyrrolidone, cationic homo- or copolymers based on quaternized vinyl imidazole and cationic homo- or copolymers based on methacrylates.
[0117] In particular, cationically modified guar derivates, preferably Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, are present. For an end-user application, the personal care compositions may comprise a series of further auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, water, bodying agents, viscosity reducers, thickeners, salts, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, fats, waxes, silicones, lecithins, protein hydrolyates, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, UV sunscreen factors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, selftanning agents, tyrosinase inhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes, and the like, including water.
[0118] For reducing the viscosity, the personal care compositions may additionally contain polyols as an optional component. Suitable polyols preferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may contain other functional groups, more especially amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
[0119] ■ glycerol;
[0120] ■ alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1.000 dalton;
[0121] ■ technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as, for example, technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
[0122] ■ methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane, trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
[0123] ■ lower alkyl glucosides, particularly those containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl glucoside;
[0124] ■ sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example sorbitol or mannitol;
[0125] ■ sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or sucrose;
[0126] ■ amino sugars, for example glucamine;
[0127] ■ dialcoholamines, such as diethanolamine or 2-aminopropane-1 ,3-diol.
[0128] The polyols are used in quantities of typically 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight and more particularly 0.7 to 3% by weight, based on the personal care composition. If larger quantities of polyol, preferably glycerol or ethylene glycol, are used, the concentrates are simultaneously stabilized against microbial infestation.
[0129] Suitable oil components are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols containing 6 to 18 and preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-22 fatty acids with linear C6-22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-13 carboxylic acids with linear C6-22 fatty alcohols such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters of linear C6-22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, more particularly 2-ethyl hexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-22 fatty alcohols, more especially Dioctyl Malate, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (for example propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on Ce- fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on Ce-is fatty acids, esters of C6-22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, more particularly benzoic acid, esters of C2-12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-22 fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-22 alcohols (for example Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or nonsymmetrical dialkyl ethers containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, for example squalane, squalene or dialkyl cyclohexanes.
[0130] Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acid alkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers.
[0131] The consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferably used.
[0132] Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for example Carbopols® [Goodrich] or Synthalens® [Sigma]), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
[0133] Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes, methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which may be both liquid and resin-like at room temperature. Other suitable silicone compounds are simethicones which are mixtures of dimethi- cones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates. Typical examples of fats are glycerides while suitable waxes are inter alia natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.
[0134] Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminium and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.
[0135] Salts like sodium chloride can be incorporated as a by-product.
[0136] In the context of the invention, biogenic agents are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
[0137] Additionally, film formers may be present. Customary film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar compounds.
[0138] If desired, further protein hydrolyzates known from the prior art may be used, for example based on keratin such as the commercially available Nutrilan® Keratin W PP, or based on wheat, such as Gluadin® WLM Benz, Gluadin® WK or Gluadin® WP. It is also possible to add small amounts of free amino acids such as lysine or arginine.
[0139] Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odors are formed through the action of skin bacteria on apocrine perspiration which results in the formation of unpleasantsmelling degradation products. Accordingly, deodorants contain active principles which act as germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.
[0140] Basically, suitable germ inhibitors are any substances which act against gram-positive bacteria such as, for example, 4-hydroxybenzoic acidand salts and esters thereof, N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N’- (3,4-dichlorophenyl)-urea, 2,4,4’-trichloro-2’-hydroxydiphenylether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-di- methylphenol, 2,2’-methylene-bis-(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4-(1-methylethyl)-phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-propane-1 ,2-diol, 3-iodo-2-propinyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4’-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial perfumes, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, nettle oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), salicylic acid-N-alkylamides such as, for example, salicylic acid-n- octyl amide or salicylic acid-n-decyl amide.
[0141] Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors. Esterase inhibitors are preferably trialkyl citrates, such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Dusseldorf, FRG). Esterase inhibitors inhibit enzyme activity and thus reduce odor formation. Other esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic acids and esters thereof, for example citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.
[0142] Suitable odor absorbers are substances which are capable of absorbing and largely retaining the odor-forming compounds. They reduce the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce the rate at which they spread. An important requirement in this regard is that perfumes must remain unimpaired. Odor absorbers are not active against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special perfumes of largely neutral odor known to the expert as “fixateurs” such as, for example, extracts of labdanum or styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives as their principal component. Odor maskers are perfumes or perfume oils which, besides their odor-masking function, impart their particular perfume note to the deodorants. Suitable perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances include the extracts of blossoms, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches, resins and balsams. Animal raw materials, for example civet and beaver, may also be used. Typical synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are the ionones and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures of different perfume compounds which, together, produce an agreeable fragrance. Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatility which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are preferably used either individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavendin oil, clary oil, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillat, irotyl and floramat.
[0143] Antiperspirants reduce perspiration and thus counteract underarm wetness and body odor by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands. Aqueous or water-free antiperspirant formulations typically contain astringent active agents for example salts of aluminium, zirconium or zinc. Suitable antihydrotic agents of this type are, for example, aluminium chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, for example with 1 ,2-propylene glycol, aluminium hydroxyallantoinate, aluminium chloride tartrate, aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, for example with amino acids, such as glycine. Oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries typically encountered in antiperspirants may also be present in relatively small amounts. Oil-soluble auxiliaries such as these include, for example, inflammation-inhibiting, skin-protecting or pleasant-smelling essential oils, synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or oil-soluble perfume oils.
[0144] Typical water-soluble additives are, for example, preservatives, water-soluble perfumes, pH regulators, for example buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, for example water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as, for example, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.
[0145] Suitable antidandruff agents are climbazol, octopirox and zinc pyrithione.
[0146] Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar compounds.
[0147] In addition, hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols, may be used to improve flow behavior.
[0148] Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikverordnung (“Cosmetics Directive”). Suitable insect repellents are N,N-diethyl-m-tol- uamide, pentane-1 ,2-diol or Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate. A suitable self-tanning agent is dihydroxyacetone.
[0149] Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamon, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, for example civet and beaver, may also be used. Typical synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are the ionones, isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures of different perfume compounds which, together, produce an agreeable fragrance. Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatility which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are preferably used either individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavendin oil, clary oil, damascene, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillat, irotyl and floramat. Dyes which can be used are the substances approved and suitable for cosmetic purposes, as listed, for example, in the publication “Kosmetische Farbemittel” [Cosmetic Colorants] from the Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft [Dyes commission of the German research society], Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. Examples are cochineal red A (C.l. 16255), patent blue V (C. I. 42051), indigotin (C.l. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.l. 75810), quinoline yellow (C.l. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.l. 77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.l. 69800) and madder lake (C.l. 58000). As a luminescent dye, it is also possible for luminol to be present. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of from 0.001 to 0.1 % by weight, based on the total mixture.
[0150] Examples
[0151] Example 1 : Wax dispersions
[0152] Inventive wax dispersions A1 to A3 and a comparative wax dispersion C were prepared.
[0153] The following components were used:
[0154] Cegesoft® Peel: Diester of Ethylene Glycol and Stearic Acid, INCI: Glycol Distearate Monomuls® 90-0 18: Glyceryl monooleate; INCI: Glyceryl Oleate
[0155] Plantacare® 1200 UP: C12-16 fatty alcohol glucoside; INCI: Lauryl Glucoside Plantacare® 810 UP: C8-10 fatty alcohol glucoside; INCI: Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside
[0156] 2 / 3 of the total added water was added and heated to 85 °C. Cegesoft® Peel, Monomuls® 90-0 18 and Plantacare® 1200 UP were added to the hot phase and stirred. At 64 °C, the last 1 / 3 of the total added water was added and stirred. After cooling to 45 °C, 14 of the total citric acid (50% by weight solution) was added and stirred. At 40 °C, Plantacare® 810 UP was added and stirred. Finally, the pH was adjusted with the remaining 14 of citric acid (50% by weight solution) at 25 °C to 3.0-3.5.
[0157] The amounts of the components in table 1 below are in wt.% active matter, in each case based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion.
[0158] Table 1
[0159] The particle sizes were determined via laser diffraction by Mastersizer 2000® (see product description company MALVERN INSTRUMENTS GmbH, Marie-Curie-StraBe 4 / 1 , 71083 Herrenberg, Germany). Viscosity was determined by the Brookfield method (RVT; spindle 5; 10 rpm; in mPas; 20 °C). With respect to the appearance, + means that the wax dispersion is very white and opaque. (-) means that the wax dispersion is less white and less opaque.
[0160] Table 1 shows that a higher content of sugar based nonionic surfactant leads to smaller particle sizes, and thus to a higher whiteness and opacity of the wax dispersion.
[0161] Example 2: Use of the wax dispersions in hair shampoo formulations
[0162] Inventive hair shampoo formulations B1 to B3 using the wax dispersion A1 were prepared. Further, comparative wax dispersions 01 and 03 containing no wax dispersion and 02 and 04 using the comparative wax dispersion C were prepared. The ingredients were mixed at 25 °C and aqueous hair shampoo formulations with the conditioning performance and whiteness shown below were obtained.
[0163] The following components were used:
[0164] Dehyquart® Guar N: Quaternized guar flour, INCI: Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Texapon® N 70: Sodium 012-14 ether sulfate + 2 EG, INCI: Sodium Laureth Sulfate
[0165] Dehyton® PK 45: Fatty acid amide derivative with betaine structure (high active), INCI: Cocami- dopropyl Betaine
[0166] Plantapon® ACG 50: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
[0167] Plantacare® 818 UP: C8-16 fatty alcohol glucoside, INCI: Coco-Glucoside
[0168] Plantapon® PSC: Mixture of 08-16 fatty alcohol glucoside, disodium 012-18 alkyl sulfosuccinate, glycerin, INCI: Coco-Glucoside (and) Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate (and) Glycerin Lamesoft® PO 65: Mixture of alkyl glucoside with fatty acid glyceryl ester, INCI: Coco-Glucoside (and) Glyceryl Oleate
[0169] Lamesoft® Balance: wax dispersion, INCI: Coco-Glucoside (and) Hydrogenated Castor Oil Verdessence® Xanthan: Xanthan gum, INCI: Xanthan gum
[0170] The amounts of the components in table 2 below are in wt.% substance as commercially available and as used for the preparation of the respective hair shampoo formulation, in each case based on the total weight of the hair shampoo formulation. Table 2
[0171] Viscosity was determined by the Brookfield method (RVT; spindle 4; 10 rpm; in mPas; 20 °C). With respect to the whiteness, 1 is the best grade (high whiteness) and 6 the worst grade (low whiteness). The residual wet combability and residual dry combability were determined as follows:
[0172] Pretreatment of hair tresses:
[0173] Residual wet combability: The hair tresses (Caucasian hair, 12 cm / 1 g, International Hair Importers & Products, USA) were washed with 6% sodium lauryl ether sulfate solution (active substance content) at pH 6.5 and bleached with a solution of 5% hydrogen peroxide at pH 9.4 for 20 minutes, followed by an intensive rinse of the hair.
[0174] Residual dry combability: The hair tresses (Caucasian hair, 15 cm / 2 g, International Hair Importers & Products, USA) were washed with 6% sodium lauryl ether sulfate solution (active substance content) at pH 6.5 and bleached with a solution of 8.5% hydrogen peroxide at pH 9.4 for 20 minutes, followed by two rinses of the hair. This was followed by drying in a stream of air at max.
[0175] 55° C. for 30 min.
[0176] Treatment of the hair tresses with hair shampoo formulations B1 to B3 and C1 to C4: In an automated method, a blank measurement was first effected, and then a measurement after the treatment of the hair with the respective hair shampoo formulation. For this purpose, the hair was treated with 0.25 g / g of hair for 5 min.
[0177] In the automated system of the wet combing apparatus, the treated hair tresses were rinsed under standard conditions (38 °C, 1 l / min) for 1 minute and measured.
[0178] For the determination of dry combability, the treated hair tresses were stored at 30 °C and 40% relative air humidity for 16 hours.
[0179] For each determination, 10 hair tresses were tested, and the combing forces were measured over 23 comb movements (3rd to 23rd).
[0180] % residual combability was calculated as follows:
[0181] Residual combability (%) = (residual combing work after product treatment / combing work before product treatment) x 100.
[0182] Table 2 shows that the inventive hair shampoo formulations B1 to B3 comprising wax dispersion A1 have a good viscosity, a good residual wet and dry combability and a high whiteness. The comparative hair shampoo formulations C2 and C4 containing wax dispersion C show a lower whiteness and opacity and show worse residual wet and dry combabilities. The comparative hair shampoo formulations C1 and C3 containing no wax dispersions are not white but transparent and show worse residual wet and dry combabilities.
[0183] Example 3: Wax dispersions A4, A5 & C5
[0184] Inventive wax dispersions A4 and A5 and a comparative wax dispersion C5 were prepared analogous to Example 1 .
[0185] The amounts of the components in table 3 below are in wt.% active matter, in each case based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion. Table 3
[0186] The particle sizes were determined via laser diffraction by Mastersizer 2000® (see product description company MALVERN INSTRUMENTS GmbH, Marie-Curie-StraBe 4 / 1 , 71083 Herren- berg, Germany). Viscosity was determined by the Brookfield method (RVT; spindle 5; 10 rpm; in mPas; 20 °C). With respect to the appearance, + means that the wax dispersion is very white and opaque. ++ means that the wax dispersion is even whiter and opaquer. (-) means that the wax dispersion is less white and less opaque. Table 3 shows that a higher content of sugar based nonionic surfactant leads to smaller particle sizes, and thus to a higher whiteness and opacity of the wax dispersion.
Claims
Claims1. Aqueous wax dispersion suitable as an opacifying agent for a personal care composition, wherein the wax dispersion contains, in each case based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, a) 7.5 to 35 wt.% ethylene glycol fatty acid ester, b) 0.1 to 10 wt.% fatty acid partial glyceride and c) 18 to 40 wt.% sugar based nonionic surfactant.
2. Aqueous wax dispersion according to claim 1 , characterized in that the ethylene glycol fatty acid ester a) is mono- and / or diester of ethylene glycol with fatty acids containing 12 to 22, in particular 16 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular wherein the fatty acids contain, based on the total weight of the fatty acids, 85 to 100 wt.% stearic acid.
3. Aqueous wax dispersion according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the fatty acid partial glyceride b) is a glycerol mono fatty acid ester, in particular is a glycerol mono fatty acid ester of a fatty acid mixture which contains, based on the total weight of the fatty acid mixture, 90 to 100 wt.% of oleic acid.
4. Aqueous wax dispersion according to any of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the sugar based nonionic surfactant c) is selected from the group consisting of alk(en)yl polyglycosides, glucuronic acid derivatives and fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, in particular is alkyl polyglycoside, in particular is alkyl polyglucoside.
5. Aqueous wax dispersion according to any of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the aqueous wax dispersion contains, based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, 10 to 30 wt.%, in particular 15 to 25 wt.% ethylene glycol fatty ester a).
6. Aqueous wax dispersion according to any of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the aqueous wax dispersion contains, based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, 0.5 to 5 wt.%, in particular 1 to 3 wt.% fatty acid partial glyceride b).
7. Aqueous wax dispersion according to any of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the aqueous wax dispersion contains, based on the total weight of the aqueous wax dispersion, 18 to 35 wt.%, in particular 20 to 30 wt.%, 22 to 30 wt.% or 25 to 30 wt.% sugar based nonionic surfactant c).
8. Aqueous wax dispersion according to any of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the weight ratio of fatty acid partial glyceride b) to sugar based nonionic surfactant c) is in the range of 1 :30 to 1 :10, in particular 1 :20 to 1 :16.
9. Aqueous wax dispersion according to any of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the aqueous wax dispersion does not contain sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium pareth sulfate, in particular does not contain a sulfate-based surfactant.
10. Aqueous wax dispersion according to any of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the aqueous wax dispersion has an average particle size d50, measured via laser diffraction by Mastersizer 2000®, of 0.8 to 3.5 pm, in particular 1 .0 to 3.0 pm.11 . Aqueous wax dispersion according to any of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the aqueous wax dispersion has a viscosity determined by Brookfield, RVT with spindle 5 at 10 rpm and 20 °C of 5 000 to 30 000 mPas, in particular 10 000 to 20 000 mPas.
12. Process for producing the aqueous wax dispersion according to any of claims 1 to 11 comprising the steps: i) heating water to a temperature of 85 °C to 90 °C, ii) adding components a), b) and c) to the water, iii) cooling to room temperature while stirring.
13. Use of the aqueous wax dispersion according to any of claims 1 to 11 as an opacifying agent in a personal care composition, in particular in a personal care composition for hair treatment.
14. Use of the aqueous wax dispersion according to any of claims 1 to 11 as a conditioning agent in a personal care composition, in particular for improving wet and / or dry combability in a personal care composition for hair treatment.
15. Personal care composition containingA) the aqueous wax dispersion according to any of claims 1 to 11 ,B) one or more surfactants selected from the group of anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and zwitterionic surfactants,C) optionally cationic polymer,D) optionally other component(s).
Citation Information
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