Concentrated oil-in-water (o / w) emulsion for dilutable waterless products and process for preparing same

Abstract

The present invention relates to a concentrated emulsion of the oil-in-water (O / W) type intended for cosmetic products. This emulsion is designed to be waterless, using a minimal amount of water during its initial formulation, with the possibility of being subsequently diluted or not by the consumer, as desired. The invention is directed to the hair cosmetics sector, offering a more sustainable alternative with a lower environmental impact compared to traditional products on the market. The concentrated emulsion may be applied to other areas of cosmetics that would benefit from concentrated, dilutable formulations. The emulsion provides advantages such as the incorporation of higher concentrations of oily active ingredients, reduction of packaging, costs, energy consumption, and pollutant emissions generated by transportation, due to the reduced product volume. Additionally, the emulsion ensures convenience for the end user, while maintaining the efficacy and quality of the cosmetic products even after dilution with water.

Description

"Concentrated oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion for dilutable waterless products and its preparation process" Field of Invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a concentrated oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion for use in cosmetic products. This emulsion is designed to be waterless, using a minimal amount of water in its initial formulation, with the possibility of being subsequently diluted by the consumer as desired. The invention is applicable to the hair cosmetics sector, aiming at a more sustainable alternative with less environmental impact compared to traditional products available on the market, and can also be used in other areas of cosmetics that benefit from concentrated and dilutable formulations. Description of the State of the Art

[0002] Currently, the cosmetics industry faces a growing challenge in developing products that not only meet consumer expectations but are also environmentally sustainable. Traditionally, cosmetic formulations contain between 60% and 80% water, representing a significant environmental and transportation impact. The emerging trend of "Waterless Beauty" seeks to mitigate these impacts by creating cosmetics that use little or no water in their composition. This approach contributes to reducing energy consumption in water heating and cooling processes during production, as well as decreasing costs and pollutant emissions associated with transportation due to the lower weight and volume of the products. However, currently available waterless products, such as shampoo and conditioner bars, face problems related to consumer acceptance.These products do not provide the same sensory experience and ease of use as traditional water-based formulations, resulting in less convenient application and lower user satisfaction. Furthermore, the texture and... The application of these formulations may be compromised, leading to lower efficiency.

[0003] Considering that consumers are accustomed to applying a fixed amount of product, it is essential to develop a strategy to avoid overuse of concentrated products. A viable solution is to offer consumers the option of easily and quickly diluting the product at home, ensuring that the physicochemical properties, such as stability, sensory and rheological characteristics, remain adequate after dilution. Furthermore, it is important to ensure that consumers also have the option of not diluting the product and using only a smaller amount, saving water, as they prefer.

[0004] Currently, there are no proposals in the literature for creams with these characteristics, and combining all these requirements represents a significant challenge. To overcome it, it is necessary to investigate the combination of various preparation parameters and different stabilizing ingredients, such as surfactants and polymers, among others. This is important to control the properties of concentrated O / W emulsions, such as rheological properties, interfacial tension between the aqueous and oily phases, volume of the internal phase, viscosity of the external phase, and droplet size, the latter preferably being as small as possible to ensure high stability.

[0005] Emulsions are widely recognized in the cosmetics industry for their rheological and sensory properties, which are fundamental to consumer satisfaction. In particular, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions have the advantage of a light, non-greasy texture. However, these emulsions traditionally contain a high concentration of water (approximately 80%), which contradicts environmental sustainability goals. In contrast, water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions have a low water content but often result in an oily feel and difficulty rinsing, which can be a limiting factor for cosmetics, especially hair and skincare products.

[0006] There are numerous documents in the technical and scientific literature that address the use of concentrated oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions in cosmetic formulations. These documents include studies on the preparation, stability, and application of concentrated emulsions, highlighting their effectiveness and potential in personal care products.

[0007] Document US2015 / 0099638A1 discloses stabilizing compositions for concentrated O / W emulsions that can be diluted in water. However, these stabilizing compositions necessarily need to contain a gemini surfactant, a sugar-derived compound, and a hydrophobically modified polymer. This requirement limits the versatility of the formulation, restricting the cosmetic base to specific ingredients that may not be compatible with all types of cosmetic applications or formulation preferences. The restrictions imposed by the need to use specific gemini surfactants and polymers can also increase production costs and limit the capacity for innovation in the formulation of new products. For example, gemini surfactants are known for their unique surface tension-reducing properties, but their compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients may be limited, compromising stability and desired performance.Furthermore, the focus of this invention is to utilize small concentrations of the aforementioned stabilizing agents, resulting in a sprayable formula with a viscosity likely close to 10. 3 Pa s, which is significantly lower than the typical viscosity of cosmetic creams, which ranges from 10 5 10 6 Note: When a 2x dilution factor is used in water, these formulas exhibit a consistency that may be undesirable for products requiring a creamy texture, making application to skin and hair difficult and thus compromising the acceptability and effectiveness of the final product.

[0008] Documents US2005 / 0031660A1 and US2005 / 0031568A1 deal with concentrated oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions that can also be diluted in water, with potential applications in cosmetic products. The documents highlight the advantage of providing versatile concentrated emulsions that can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations and adjusted in consistency and properties to meet the specific needs of different products. However, the use of a specific water-soluble polymeric emulsifier is necessary to ensure the stability and effectiveness of the emulsion, which negates the versatility offered. Furthermore, the dilution of these emulsions is not done in water by the end consumer, since the intention is for this concentrated emulsion to be used as one of the ingredients within a formulation, and not as the formulation's chassis (base).

[0009] Documents US10617619B2 and US9539444B2 address solid compositions for cosmetic formulations designed to be diluted in water. However, they are not concentrated emulsions and require heating or a long homogenization time in the dilution process. Specifically, document US9539444B2 requires heating to a temperature of approximately 70°C. Document US10617619B2 addresses the possibility of dispersing these solid compositions in water under ambient conditions, but requires a long homogenization time. These high temperature and long dilution time requirements represent a significant practical limitation, as they impose additional complexity on the end-consumer use process. Furthermore, prolonged heating can potentially degrade certain heat-sensitive ingredients present in cosmetic formulations, thus compromising the efficacy and quality of the final product.

[0010] In order to facilitate the dilution process, documents US11351094B2 and US11352474B2 detail, respectively, solid structures that are easily dilutable. However, the preparation of these solid structures presents several technical and economic disadvantages. The manufacturing process is complex and time-consuming, involving multiple steps that demand precision and rigorous control. Furthermore, it often requires the use of sophisticated and expensive drying equipment, such as dryers... Spraying or freeze-drying not only raises production costs but also significantly increases energy consumption. This high energy consumption not only negatively impacts operating costs but also raises environmental concerns due to the associated carbon footprint. Consequently, while the inventions provide a waterless product by creating easily dilutable solid structures, the manufacturing process involved is economically burdensome and presents additional challenges in terms of sustainability and energy efficiency.

[0011] Document CN101919788A describes a HIPE O / W emulsion designed to combine makeup removal and cleansing steps in a single application, offering an economical and efficient option. The emulsion includes an oil phase (45-90%), an aqueous phase (5-45%), emulsifying components (3-10%) with an HLB value of 8-18 and a composite HLB value of 10-15, and a detergent component with an HLB value greater than 18, in an amount of 2-10% by weight. However, this is a formulation specifically for use as a makeup remover, which should be applied directly to the skin without prior dilution. The emulsion is specifically designed to destabilize during use, releasing the oil phase and, after rinsing with water, emulsify again, facilitating the removal of residue without leaving the skin oily.

[0012] Although document CN101919788A discusses the possibility of adding water-soluble polymers, including polymers that act as rheological modifiers, it is important to recognize that incorporating this component into an oil-in-water (O / W) HIPE (High Internal Phase Emulsion) emulsion is not trivial. The complexity of this process stems from the small amount of water available in the O / W HIPE emulsion, which makes the solubilization of polymers in the aqueous phase highly challenging and, in many cases, practically unfeasible. However, in many cosmetic formulations, the presence of water-soluble polymers is necessary, either as thickeners due to sensory considerations or in other specific roles. as conditioning agents, film formers or fixatives. Therefore, it is important to overcome the challenge of ensuring the effective incorporation of such polymers into O / W HIPEs.

[0013] Additionally, document CN101919788A provides details on the preparation of these emulsions, mentioning the need to add the oil phase slowly to avoid demulsification, followed by a second, more intense stirring step, characterizing a slow, inefficient, and costly preparation process.

[0014] In contrast to document CN101919788A, the emulsion preparation process proposed by the present invention does not require the slow addition of the oil phase, nor does it require a second step of intense agitation. This simplification makes the manufacturing process faster, more efficient, and more economical. The present invention not only overcomes the technical limitations of the prior art but also offers a more practical and efficient solution for the preparation of HIPE O / W emulsions with rheological properties suitable for cosmetic application, even after dilution in water.

[0015] The main problems mentioned can be summarized as economic viability, environmental impact, process complexity, acceptance by the end consumer, as well as the effectiveness and quality of the final product. Objectives of the invention

[0016] With the aim of solving the problems mentioned above, the present invention was developed, which consists of an O / W emulsion for waterless dilutable cosmetic products, consisting of concentrated O / W emulsions, including HIPEs O / W (High Internal Phase Emulsions). These formulations are designed to allow dilution in water by the consumer, optimizing both stability and sensory performance. They utilize a carefully selected combination of surfactants, water-soluble polymers, and fatty alcohols.

[0017] The present invention also describes a novel preparation process in which water-soluble polymers are not pre-solubilized. Before the emulsion is formed, these polymers are initially dispersed in part of the water and subsequently added to the already formed HIPE O / W emulsion. This process allows the formation of HIPE emulsions with appropriate concentrations of water-soluble thickening polymers for cosmetic applications, ensuring that the desired rheological properties are maintained after dilution of the emulsion in water. Furthermore, this process facilitates industrial-scale implementation, avoiding problems associated with the pre-solubilization of polymers.

[0018] Thus, the present invention provides benefits such as the incorporation of higher concentrations of oily active ingredients, reduced packaging, cost, energy consumption, and pollutant emissions generated by transportation, thanks to the reduction in product volume. Additionally, the emulsion ensures practicality for the end user, maintaining the effectiveness and quality of cosmetic products even after dilution in water. Brief Description of the Invention

[0019] The present invention relates to a concentrated oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion for use in cosmetic products, designed to be waterless, comprising at least one cationic surfactant, at least one oil, at least one wax, at least one water-soluble thickening polymer, and water. Generally, the concentrated emulsion according to the present invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant, or a mixture of cationic surfactants, with a concentration of up to 6% by mass of the emulsion; at least one oil, or mixture of oils, with a concentration of 35 to 75% by mass of the emulsion; at least one wax, at a concentration of 1 to 14% by mass of the emulsion; at least one water-soluble thickening polymer at a concentration of 0.1% to 5% by mass of the emulsion; and water at a maximum concentration of up to 60% by mass of the emulsion. Brief Description of the Figures

[0020] The present invention will be better understood through the following example, provided for illustrative purposes only and should not be construed as One limitation of the present invention is that numerous variations are possible without deviating from its main objective. The formulas for these examples are detailed in Table 1, which presents chassis for dilutable waterless formulations focused on hair care. The properties and characteristics of these formulas are described below, in accordance with the attached Figures, where: Figure 1 illustrates the visual appearance of concentrated O / W emulsions on the day of preparation, where item A in Figure 1 shows Formula 1; item B in Figure 1 shows Formula 2; and item C in Figure 1 shows Formula 3; Figure 2 illustrates the visual appearance of concentrated O / W emulsions after a centrifugation stability test, where item A in Figure 2 shows Formula 1; item B in Figure 2 shows Formula 2; and item C in Figure 2 shows Formula 3; Figure 3 illustrates optical microscopy images of the concentrated O / W emulsions, where items A1, A2, and A3 of Figure 3 show bright field and 40x objective lens of Formulas 1, 2, and 3, respectively; and items B1, B2, and B3 of Figure 3 show under polarized light and 10x objective lens of Formulas 1, 2, and 3, respectively; Figure 4 illustrates the rheological behavior of the concentrated O / W emulsion, where item A of Figure 4 shows a flow curve and item B of Figure 4 shows a stress sweep of Formula 1; Figure 5 illustrates the visual appearance of the emulsions after dilution in water, for different dilution factors (1.4x, 2x and 3.3x) of Formula 1, where item A of Figure 5 shows an investigation of phase separation and item B of Figure 5 shows an evaluation of consistency; Figure 6 illustrates optical microscopy images of the emulsion after dilution in water at a dilution factor of 2x from Formula 1, where item A of Figure 6 shows a bright field and 40x objective lens and item B of Figure 6 shows it under polarized light and a 10x objective lens; Figure 7 illustrates the rheological behavior of water-diluted emulsions at dilution factors of 1.4x and 2x from Formula 1, where item A of Figure 7 shows a flow curve controlled by shear stress and item B of Figure 7 shows a curve controlled by shear rate; Figure 8 illustrates a simulation of the dilution of Formula 1 to be performed by the consumer before use, if desired, using a pump bottle to simulate this dilution. The dilution steps include: item 1 of Figure 8: adding a specific amount of the concentrated emulsion to the bottle; item 2 of Figure 8: adding the same amount or more of distilled water to the bottle; item 3 of Figure 8: manually shaking the bottle for about 1 to 5 minutes; item 4 of Figure 8: using the pump to remove the diluted emulsion from the bottle and use the product; item 5 of Figure 8: obtaining a diluted emulsion of a consistency suitable for consumer use; Figure 9 illustrates a simulation of the dilution of Formula 2 to be performed by the consumer before use, if desired, using a pump bottle to simulate this dilution. The dilution steps include: item 1 of Figure 9: adding a specific amount of the concentrated emulsion to the bottle; item 2 of Figure 9: adding the same amount or more of distilled water to the bottle; item 3 of Figure 9: manually shaking the bottle for about 1 to 5 minutes; item 4 of Figure 9: using the pump to remove the diluted emulsion from the bottle and use the product; item 5 of Figure 9: obtaining a diluted emulsion of a consistency suitable for consumer use. Detailed Description of the Invention

[0021] The present invention comprises an emulsion for waterless, dilutable cosmetic products, which provides attractive sensory properties to the consumer both before and after dilution in water, allowing its use as a final cosmetic product, with or without dilution. More specifically, when using a dilution factor of up to 2x in water, the present emulsion produces creams with high viscosity, providing an enhanced sensory experience for consumers. This concentrated O / W emulsion is consisting of an internal oily phase with a higher volume fraction and an external aqueous phase with a lower volume fraction.

[0022] The internal oily phase comprises any water-immiscible material that is in a liquid or solid state under ambient conditions, including oils and, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters, butters, and other waxes. According to the present invention, the oils represent at least 40% by volume of the emulsion, preferably at least 65% by volume, and more preferably at least 75% by volume of the emulsion.

[0023] The external aqueous phase comprises water and any water-miscible material that is in a liquid or solid state under ambient conditions, including, but not limited to, humectants, antioxidants, preservatives, and chelating agents, which may be combined with the polymer or polymer mixture. According to the present invention, water represents up to 60% by volume of the emulsion, preferably up to 35% by volume, and more preferably up to 25% by volume of the emulsion.

[0024] The stability and rheological properties of this concentrated O / W emulsion before and after dilution in water are ensured by the combination of at least one water-soluble surfactant, at least one wax, and at least one water-soluble thickening polymer. The wax may be composed of materials that are solid at ambient conditions, including esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, surfactants, polymers, among others. Additional ingredients, such as oil-soluble surfactants, oil-soluble polymers, solid particles, proteins, amino acids, preservatives, antioxidants, chelating agents, and fragrances, among others, may be incorporated to improve the functional and sensory properties of the emulsion.

[0025] Furthermore, the present invention offers a fast and energy-efficient preparation process compared to traditional methods used for concentrated emulsions. Typically, the preparation of concentrated emulsions involves the slow addition of the internal phase to the external phase and the use of high-energy stirring processes, often Between 10,000 and 15,000 rpm on a laboratory scale. In the present invention, emulsification is achieved by rapidly adding the internal oil phase to the external aqueous phase, with agitation adjusted between 1,000 and 2,000 rpm on a laboratory scale, a speed significantly lower than those normally employed. This process not only simplifies the manufacturing process but also reduces energy consumption and associated operating costs. The reduction in agitation speed minimizes equipment wear and decreases the risk of degradation of shear-sensitive components, resulting in a concentrated emulsion that maintains its physicochemical and sensory properties efficiently and sustainably.

[0026] More specifically, in the first embodiment of the present invention, there is a concentrated oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion for dilutable waterless products, i.e., wherein the concentrated emulsion is configured to be diluted in water, comprising: i. at least one cationic surfactant, or a mixture thereof, at a concentration of up to 6% by mass of the emulsion, preferably up to 4% by mass for monoalkyl surfactants or a mixture of surfactants containing monoalkyl and / or dialkyl molecules, and up to 2% by mass of the emulsion for dialkyl surfactants, wherein the cationic surfactant is not polymeric and is selected from the group consisting of, but not limited to: monoalkyl and dialkyl quaternary ammonium salts, monoalkyl amidoamines, combinations of monoalkyl amidoamines with dialkyl and / or monoalkyl quaternary ammonium salts.Examples of monoalkyl amidoamines include, but are not limited to: stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitoamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, and others in the same family. Alkyl amidoamines can be used in combination with cosmetic acids for water solubilization. Ammonium salts. The quaternary monoalkyl compounds used are those possessing hydrocarbon chains containing 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples include, but are not limited to: cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, and behentrimonium chloride, among others in the same family. Quaternary dialkyl ammonium salts can be combined with quaternary monoalkyl ammonium salts and have alkyl chains containing 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples include, but are not limited to: distearyl dimethylammonium chloride, distearoyl dimethylammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethylammonium chloride and dialkyl (14-18) dimethylammonium chloride, and others in the same family.Preferably, it is suggested to use 2% cetrimonium chloride combined with 2% distearyl dimethylammonium chloride; ii. at least one oil, or mixture of oils, at a concentration of 35 to 75% by mass of the emulsion (corresponding to the range of 40 to 80% by volume of the emulsion), wherein the oil includes, but is not limited to, vegetable oils, mineral oil, silicone oils and other synthetic oils; iii. at least one wax, preferably a fatty alcohol, more preferably cetostearyl alcohol, at a concentration of 1 to 14% by mass of the emulsion, preferably 1 to 10%, more preferably 1 to 7%. This is because the molar ratio of surfactant to wax is preferably 1:1 to 1:5, more preferably 1:1 to 1:3, most preferably 1:2; iv. Water at a maximum concentration of up to 60% by volume of the emulsion, preferably up to 35% and more preferably up to 25%; v.at least one water-soluble thickening polymer, wherein the thickening polymer is understood to be a polymer capable of considerably increasing the viscosity of the medium even when at low concentrations, selected from but not limited to the group consisting of gums, starches, amylopectins, carrageenans, carbomers, polyacrylamides, etc. Polyethylene glycols, polyquaterniums, agar, pectins, polyacrylates, celluloses, and their derivatives, among other polymers capable of considerably increasing the viscosity of the medium even at low concentrations, preferably a cationic derivative of cellulose, more preferably polyquaternium-10, at a concentration of 0.1% to 5% by mass of the emulsion, preferably at a concentration of 2% when only monoalkyl surfactants are present in the emulsion and 0.6% when only dialkyl surfactants are present in the emulsion. The preference for polyquaternium-10 is due to its secondary effect as a conditioning and anti-static agent for hair cosmetics.Preferably, the water-soluble thickening polymer is combined with a water-soluble film-forming polymer, wherein a film-forming polymer is understood to be a polymer capable of crosslinking when solubilized in a solvent, and which upon drying forms films, this polymer being selected from, but not limited to, the group consisting of PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone), PVA (polyvinyl alcohol), modified polyurethanes, starches, polyquaterniums, chitosan, and their derivatives, among other polymers capable of crosslinking when solubilized in a solvent and which upon drying form films, preferably corn starch, more preferably hydrolyzed corn starch, at a concentration of 2% to 8% by mass of the emulsion. This polymer is used to provide fixing or finishing effects for hair products.

[0027] An emulsion consists of an oily inner phase and an aqueous outer phase. The oily inner phase is formed by oils, waxes, water-insoluble surfactants, and other water-insoluble ingredients, when present. In this phase, the oil represents at least 40% by volume of the emulsion, preferably at least 65% by volume, and more preferably at least 75% by volume. The aqueous outer phase is formed by water, polymers, water-soluble surfactants, and other water-soluble ingredients, when present. In this phase, water represents... up to 60% by volume of the emulsion, preferably up to 35% by volume of the emulsion, and more preferably up to 25% by volume of the emulsion.

[0028] The emulsion can be diluted by the consumer with a dilution factor of up to 2x, corresponding to a ratio of 1 part emulsion by volume to 1 part water by volume. Dilution of the concentrated emulsion in water is carried out by stirring, completing the process within 1 to 5 minutes, depending on the concentrations of wax and water-soluble thickening polymers used.

[0029] A second embodiment of the present invention involves a process for preparing this emulsion, comprising the following steps: (a) Heat 50% (v / v) by volume of the total water to a temperature in the range of 40°C to 75°C; (b) Mix and heat at least one oil and at least one wax to a range of 40°C to 75°C until completely homogenized, forming a heated oily mixture; (c) Mix at least one cationic surfactant in the heated water from step (a) or in the heated oil mixture from step (b) according to its solubility, maintaining the temperature in the range of 40°C to 75°C, in order to guarantee its complete solubilization; (d) Add the heated oil mixture to the 50% (v / v) heated water from step (a) under mechanical stirring at 1000 to 2000 rpm for 1 to 5 minutes, forming a pre-emulsion; (e) Disperse at least one water-soluble thickening polymer in the remaining total water at room temperature, forming a thickening polymer dispersion; (f) After obtaining the pre-emulsion from step (d), pause the mechanical stirring and add the thickening polymer dispersion from step (e) to the pre-emulsion, and resume mechanical stirring at a speed of 1000 to 2000 rpm for 1 to 5 minutes, maintaining the heat at Temperature within the range of 40°C to 75°C, ensuring complete solubilization of the thickening polymer; (g) Allow the emulsion to cool at rest until it reaches room temperature, forming a stable concentrated oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.

[0030] The heating temperature for steps (a), (b) and (c) should be chosen based on ensuring complete melting and homogenization of all ingredients.

[0031] If using alkyl amidoamines, also add the acid of choice to the first portion of water in step (a) to promote complete solubilization of the surfactant.

[0032] If other water-insoluble ingredients that need to be heated are used, such as fragrances, oily actives, butters, emollients, plant extracts, sunscreens and polymers, they should be added to the heated oil mixture from step (b).

[0033] It is necessary to ensure that the heated oil mixture and the first portion of water from step (a) of the process are both at the same temperature before proceeding to step (d), this temperature being set in order to guarantee the solubility of all components.

[0034] Optionally, it is strongly recommended to solubilize at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer by separating a portion of the water intended for the thickening polymer dispersion in step (e) and heating it to the temperature most suitable for its chemical nature, forming a film-forming polymer solution. This solution should be incorporated into the emulsion in step (f), just before the addition of the thickening polymer dispersion.

[0035] If other water-soluble ingredients are used, such as preservatives, antioxidants, aqueous actives, peptides, pH regulators, vitamins, colorants, humectants, proteins, and chelating agents, among others, they may be added to the water intended for dispersing the thickening polymer.

[0036] The emulsion to be formed using a mechanical stirrer equipped with a 4-blade propeller, when on a laboratory scale, can be adapted to a homogenizing mixer on an industrial scale, where the mechanical stirring of steps (d) and (f) can be carried out at a speed of 1000 to 2000 rpm, preferably 1500 rpm, on a laboratory scale. Examples of Application of the Invention

[0037] To better understand the effectiveness and applicability of the present invention, some example formulations have been developed. These examples, focused on hair care, illustrate how the emulsion for dilutable waterless products can be used to create a concentrated emulsion with attractive sensory and rheological properties. The preparation and composition of these formulations are detailed below, as well as the evaluated characteristics that guarantee their stability and performance. These examples serve as a proof of concept, highlighting the technical and functional advantages of the invention. However, it is important to note that these examples do not limit the scope of the present invention, and various other variations and applications are possible without deviating from its main objective.

[0038] Examples of waterless dilutable emulsion formulations focused on hair care were prepared in Formulas 1, 2, and 3 using the components listed in Table 1. The characteristics and properties of these formulations were subsequently evaluated to ensure the efficacy and quality of the final product.

[0039] Formulas 1 and 3 were prepared as follows: 50% (v / v) of the total water was heated to 75°C. The mineral oil, the mixture of distearoylethyl dimonium chloride and cetearyl alcohol, and the mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearic alcohol were mixed using a glass rod for homogenization and heated to 75°C until complete homogenization was achieved.

[0040] This oily mixture was then added to previously heated water (50% v / v), under mechanical stirring at 1500 rpm, using a A mechanical stirrer equipped with a 4-blade propeller is used for 2 minutes to form the pre-emulsion, followed by the addition of the polymers.

[0041] For Formula 1, of the remaining 50% (v / v) of water, 30% (v / v) of the total water was used to solubilize the hydrolyzed corn starch at 75°C for 5 minutes, using a glass rod for homogenization, resulting in a starch solution. The polyquaternium-10 was dispersed in the remaining 20% ​​(v / v) of water at room temperature, forming a thickening polymer dispersion.

[0042] For Formula 3, the remaining water, which corresponds to 50% (v / v) of the total water, was used to disperse the polyquaternium-10 at room temperature, forming a dispersion of the thickening polymer.

[0043] After 2 minutes of mechanical stirring, a concentrated pre-emulsion formed, and stirring was paused for 1 minute. During this pause, the thickening polymer dispersion was added to the concentrated pre-emulsion, and for Formula 1, the starch solution was also added. Mechanical stirring was restarted at 1500 rpm for a further 3 minutes at 75°C. Finally, the concentrated O / W emulsion was left to cool to room temperature.

[0044] Formula 2 was prepared as follows: Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride was mixed with 50% (v / v) of the total water, and this mixture was heated to 75°C, forming a surfactant solution. Mineral oil and the mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearic alcohol were mixed using a glass rod for homogenization and heated to 75°C until complete homogenization was achieved.

[0045] This oily mixture was then added to the previously heated surfactant solution (50% v / v), under mechanical stirring at 1500 rpm, using a mechanical stirrer equipped with a 4-blade propeller, for 2 minutes to form the pre-emulsion. The addition of the polymers then followed the procedure for Formula 1. Table 1: Formulas 1, 2 and 3 - Concentrated oil-in-water emulsions.

[0046] As illustrated in Figure 1, the concentrated O / W emulsions of the present invention exhibit a creamy appearance. The concentrated O / W emulsions were subjected to a stability test by centrifugation, consisting of two 30-minute cycles at 3,000 rpm. After these In the cycles, the emulsions did not show separation of oily or aqueous phases, as evidenced in Figure 2.

[0047] Optical microscopy images in Figure 3 show droplets of no more than 5 µm, which, among several other factors, contributes to the high stability of the concentrated emulsions of the present invention. Optical microscopy images with polarized light (items B1, B2 and B3 of Figure 3) revealed birefringence, indicating the presence of anisotropic materials, such as the lamellar gel network, which is known to promote the stability of emulsions.

[0048] Based on Figure 4, the rheological behavior of the concentrated O / W emulsion of Formula 1, obtained using a rheometer, is observed. The emulsion demonstrates high viscosity and behavior typical of a viscoelastic solid, essential characteristics for cosmetic formulations. Furthermore, the Formula 1 emulsion exhibits a yield point viscosity, a fundamental attribute in cosmetic creams to ensure the minimum resistance required for the formulation's flow.

[0049] Additionally, it is observed that viscosity decreases with increasing shear rate (item A of Figure 4), a relevant rheological property for cosmetic products, as it facilitates the spreadability of the formula and the application of the product by the consumer. The stress sweep (item B of Figure 4) demonstrates that the concentrated O / W emulsion of Formula 1 has high resistance, evidenced by the maintenance of the linear viscoelasticity region (LVR) even at high shear stress values. This behavior is directly related to the high stability of the emulsion, ensuring its integrity and performance during use.

[0050] Dilution tests of the concentrated O / W emulsion of Formula 1 were successfully performed, confirming the ease of dilution with manual and mechanical agitation. Dilutions were tested at three different dilution factors: 3.3x, 2x, and 1.4x, corresponding to mass ratios of 7:3, 5:5, and 3:7 (water:emulsion), respectively. The time required for Achieving complete dilution in water, resulting in the formation of a homogeneous cream, was quantified using a mechanical stirrer set to 250 rpm, i.e., a low rotation speed to simulate manual stirring by the end consumer. The evaluation was done by timing the time required to achieve complete dilution. The results indicated that the mixture reached complete dilution in up to 5 minutes for all dilution ratios tested.

[0051] Figure 5 shows the visual appearance of the Formula 1 emulsion after dilution in water. A dilution factor of 3.3x resulted in a less stable diluted emulsion, with separation of the aqueous phase occurring one week after dilution, as indicated by 1 in item A of Figure 5. In contrast, dilution factors of 2x and 1.4x resulted in the formation of stable diluted emulsions with high viscosity. It is observed that varying the amount of water used in the dilution process leads to obtaining diluted emulsions with different rheological and sensory properties, demonstrating the versatility of the emulsion developed in the present invention.

[0052] With reference to Figure 6, the optical microscopy images of the Formula 1 emulsion after dilution in water at a dilution factor of 2x show still reduced droplet sizes, which contributes to the stability of the diluted emulsion. Optical microscopy under polarized light (item B of Figure 6) shows birefringence, indicating the presence of anisotropic materials, such as the lamellar gel network, which are maintained even after the emulsion dilution process with water.

[0053] Figure 7 shows the results of rheological tests performed on Formula 1 emulsions after dilution in water. The flow curves indicate that the greater the amount of water used in the dilution process (higher dilution factors), the lower the rupture stress obtained, which in this case is related to the minimum stress required for the emulsion to begin to flow (item A of Figure 7). It is also observed that the viscosity decreases with increasing shear rate (item B of Figure 7). This rheological property is important for cosmetic products because it is correlated with the greater spreadability of the cream, facilitating product application by the consumer. Furthermore, the more diluted the emulsion, the lower its viscosity (item B in Figure 7), however, the emulsion's ability to maintain consistency and adequate rheological performance under different dilution conditions is noteworthy.

[0054] Figure 8 simulates the dilution to be performed by the consumer in a pump bottle for Formula 1. The concentrated oil-in-water emulsion is added to the bottle (step 1), and an equal mass of distilled water is also added (step 2) to achieve a 2x dilution factor. The bottle is then shaken (step 3) for approximately 5 minutes, and at the end, the diluted product comes out of the bottle using the pump (step 4), presenting a consistency suitable for application and use by the consumer (step 5).

[0055] Figure 9 simulates the dilution to be performed by the consumer in a pump bottle for Formula 2. The concentrated oil-in-water emulsion is added to the bottle (step 1), and an equal mass of distilled water is also added (step 2) to achieve a 2x dilution factor. The bottle is then agitated (step 3) for approximately 5 minutes, and at the end, the diluted product is dispensed from the bottle using the pump (step 4), presenting a consistency suitable for application and use by the consumer (step 5).

[0056] The present invention directly addresses the long-standing challenges in formulating waterless cosmetic products, offering an alternative that not only effectively provides a stable concentrated emulsion with superior sensory properties, but also ensures easy dilution at home by the consumer. This emulsion preparation and dilution process, which maintains the stability and rheological performance of the emulsion even after dilution, reflects a commitment to practicality and sustainability. By using a low-energy consumption approach and Through simplified processes, the present invention establishes a new standard for the formulation of cosmetic products.

[0057] Therefore, it is evident that the present invention is not limited to being a solution for the formulation of dilutable hair products, but represents a major advance for the science of cosmetics. The combination of ease of use, improved stability and exceptional sensory properties demonstrates how science and technology can converge to produce products that are both effective and environmentally responsible. This invention opens new avenues for future applications in the field of cosmetics, promoting more sustainable and innovative practices in the personal care industry.

[0058] It should be noted that, although the present invention has been described with respect to the accompanying drawings, it may undergo modifications and adaptations by those skilled in the art, depending on the specific situation, but provided that they remain within the inventive scope defined herein.

Claims

Claims 1- CONCENTRATED OIL-IN-WATER (O / W) EMULSION FOR WATERLESS DILUABLE PRODUCTS characterized by comprising: i. at least one cationic surfactant or a mixture of cationic surfactants, at a concentration of up to 6% by mass of the emulsion; ii. at least one oil or a mixture of oils, at a concentration of 35 to 75% by mass of the emulsion; iii. at least one wax or a mixture of waxes, at a concentration of 1 to 14% by mass of the emulsion; iv. water, at a concentration of up to 60% by mass of the emulsion; v. at least one water-soluble thickening polymer, at a concentration of 0.1 to 5% by mass of the emulsion; wherein the concentrated emulsion is configured to be diluted in water. 2- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 1, characterized by the cationic surfactant or mixture of cationic surfactants preferably having a concentration of up to 4% by mass of the emulsion for monoalkyl surfactants or a mixture of surfactants containing monoalkyl and / or dialkyl molecules, wherein the cationic surfactant is not polymeric and is selected from the group consisting of monoalkyl and dialkyl quaternary ammonium salts, monoalkyl amidoamines, combinations of monoalkyl amidoamines with dialkyl and / or monoalkyl quaternary ammonium salts. 3- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 1, characterized by the cationic surfactant or mixture of cationic surfactants preferably having a concentration of up to 2% by mass of the emulsion for dialkyl surfactants. 4- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 2, characterized in that the monoalkyl amidoamines are selected from the group consisting of stearam idopropyl dimethylamine, stearam idopropyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitoamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, among others from the same family. 5- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 2, characterized in that the monoalkyl quaternary ammonium salts are selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon chains containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms. 6- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 5, characterized by the monoalkyl quaternary ammonium salts being cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, and behentrimonium chloride, among others of the same family. 7- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 2, characterized in that the quaternary dialkyl ammonium salts are selected from the group consisting of alkyl chains containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms. 8- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 7, characterized by the quaternary dialkyl ammonium salts being distearyl dimethylammonium chloride, distearoyl dimethylammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethylammonium chloride and dialkyl (14-18) dimethylammonium chloride, among others of the same family. 9- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 1, characterized in that the oil or mixture of oils preferably has a concentration of 75% by volume of the emulsion. 10- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 1, characterized in that the oil or mixture of oils is selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, mineral oils, silicone oils and synthetic oils. 11- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 1, characterized in that the wax or mixture of waxes is selected from the group consisting of esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, surfactants and polymers. 12- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 1, characterized in that the wax or mixture of waxes are preferably fatty alcohols, more preferably cetostearyl alcohol, which represents a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearic alcohol in a proportion of 60% and 40% by mass. 13- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 1, characterized in that the water preferably has a concentration of up to 25% by volume of the emulsion. 14- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 1, characterized in that the water-soluble thickening polymer is selected from the group consisting of gums, starches, amylopectins, carrageenans, carbomers, polyacrylamides, polyethylene glycols, polyquaterniums, agar, pectins, polyacrylates, celluloses, and their derivatives. 15- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 14, characterized in that the water-soluble thickening polymer is preferably polyquaternium-10. 16- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 1, characterized in that the water-soluble thickening polymer is preferably combined with a water-soluble film-forming polymer, which represents 2% to 8% by mass of the emulsion. 17- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 18, characterized in that the soluble film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone), PVA (polyvinyl alcohol), modified polyurethanes, starches, polyquaterniums, chitosan, and their derivatives. 18- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 17, characterized in that the water-soluble film-forming polymer is preferably hydrolyzed corn starch. 19- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 1, characterized by further comprising the addition of water-soluble ingredients, selected from the group consisting of preservatives, antioxidants, aqueous actives, peptides, pH regulators, vitamins, colorants, humectants, proteins and chelating agents. 20- CONCENTRATED EMULSION, according to claim 19, characterized by further comprising the addition of water-insoluble ingredients, selected from the group consisting of fragrances, oily actives, butters, emollients, plant extracts, sunscreens and polymers. 21- PROCESS FOR PREPARING A CONCENTRATED OIL-IN-WATER (O / W) EMULSION FOR WATERLESS, DILUABLE PRODUCTS, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20, characterized by comprising the following steps: (a) Heat 50% (v / v) by volume of the total water to a temperature in the range of 40°C to 75°C; (b) Mix and heat at least one oil and at least one wax to a range of 40°C to 75°C until completely homogenized, forming a heated oily mixture; (c) Mix at least one cationic surfactant in the heated water from step (a) or in the heated oil mixture from step (b) according to its solubility, maintaining the temperature in the range of 40°C to 75°C, in order to guarantee its complete solubilization; (d) Add the heated oil mixture to the 50% (v / v) heated water from step (a) under mechanical stirring at 1000 to 2000 rpm for 1 to 5 minutes, forming a pre-emulsion; (e) Disperse at least one water-soluble thickening polymer in the remaining total water at room temperature, forming a thickening polymer dispersion; (f) After obtaining the pre-emulsion from step (d), pause the mechanical stirring and add the thickening polymer dispersion from step (e) to the pre-emulsion, and resume mechanical stirring at a speed of 1000 to 2000 rpm for 1 to 5 minutes, maintaining the heating temperature within the range of 40°C to 75°C and ensuring complete solubilization of the thickening polymer; (g) Allow the emulsion to cool at rest until it reaches room temperature, forming a stable concentrated oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. 22- PROCESS, according to claim 21, characterized by adding a cosmetic-grade acid in the case of alkyl amidoamines to the first portion of water in step (a) to promote complete solubilization of the surfactant. 23- PROCESS, according to claim 21, characterized by optionally adding one or more water-insoluble ingredients selected from the group consisting of fragrances, oily actives, butters, emollients, plant extracts, sunscreens and polymers, to be heated together with the heated oil mixture of step (b). 24- PROCESS, according to claim 21, characterized by maintaining the same temperature of the heated oil mixture and the first part of the water from step (a) before proceeding to step (d) in order to guarantee the solubility of all components. 25- PROCESS, according to claim 21, characterized by optionally solubilizing at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer, separating a portion of the water intended for dispersing the thickening polymer from step (e) and heating it to a temperature between 40°C and 75°C, ensuring its complete solubilization and forming a polymer solution. film former, wherein this solution is incorporated into the emulsion in step (f), just before the addition of the thickening polymer dispersion. 26- PROCESS, according to claim 21, characterized by optionally adding water-soluble ingredients, such as preservatives, antioxidants, aqueous actives, peptides, pH regulators, humectants, proteins and chelating agents, to the water intended for the dispersion of the thickening polymer. 27- PROCESS, according to claim 21, characterized in that the emulsion is formed using a benchtop mechanical stirrer equipped with a 4-blade propeller or a homogenizing mixer. 28- PROCESS, according to claim 21, characterized in that the mechanical agitation of steps (d) and (f) is carried out at a speed preferably of 1500 rpm when using a benchtop mechanical stirrer.

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