Self-hemmed garment opening

Abstract

In general terms, the invention provides a knitted fabric sheath with an opening formed therein by a circular knitting machine, the opening being formed with a folded knitted fabric portion at a lower edge of the opening. The folded knitted fabric drapes downwardly from the opening, preferably so that it lies adjacent an outer surface of the knitted fabric sheath. A first aspect of the invention provides a garment formed via a continuous process from a plurality of yarns using a circular knitting machine. The garment includes: a knitted fabric sheath formed using the plurality of yarns; and an opening formed in the knitted fabric sheath. The opening comprises: a circumferential slit providing an aperture of the opening; and a lower folded edge defining a lower extent of the opening, the lower folded edge comprising a lower folded flap of knitted fabric formed with an integral seam, wherein the lower folded flap projects downwardly away from the circumferential slit and lies adjacent an outer face of the garment.

Description

[0001] P4685PC00

[0002] SELF-HEMMED GARMENT OPENING

[0003] TECHNICAL FIELD

[0004] This invention relates to garments with openings formed using a circular knitting machine, and methods for forming such openings.

[0005] BACKGROUND

[0006] It is challenging to form openings in a garment using a circular knitting machine. Existing approaches for the formation of openings for e.g. pockets or thumbholes have been found to be insufficiently resilient in use, or to require significant additional sewing steps in order to provide the necessary resilience. In particular, existing approaches for using the inbuilt cutting tools of circular knitting machines to form such openings leave the openings with raw edges.

[0007] SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0008] In general terms, the invention provides a knitted fabric sheath with an opening formed therein by a circular knitting machine, the opening being formed with a folded knitted fabric portion at a lower edge of the opening. The folded knitted fabric portion drapes downwardly from the opening, preferably so that it lies adjacent an outer surface of the knitted fabric sheath.

[0009] A first aspect of the invention provides a garment formed via a continuous process from a plurality of yarns using a circular knitting machine, the garment including: a knitted fabric sheath formed using the plurality of yarns; and an opening formed in the knitted fabric sheath using a subset of the plurality of yarns, the opening comprising: a circumferential slit providing an aperture of the opening, the circumferential slit preferably comprising a row of dropped stitches; and a lower folded edge defining a lower extent of the opening, the lower folded edge comprising a lower folded flap of knitted fabric formed with an integral seam, wherein the lower folded flap projects downwardly away from the circumferential slit and lies adjacent an outer face of the garment.

[0010] Alternatively, the first aspect provides a garment formed via a continuous process from a plurality of yarns using a circular knitting machine comprising a series of needles arranged in a ring and movable between a knitting position and a held position, the garment including: P4685PC00 a knitted fabric sheath formed using the needles of the series of needles of the circular knitting machine and the plurality of yarns; and an opening formed in the knitted fabric sheath using a subset of the series of needles of the circular knitting machine and a subset of the plurality of yarns, the opening comprising: a circumferential slit providing an aperture of the opening, the circumferential slit preferably comprising a row of dropped stitches; and a lower folded edge defining a lower extent of the opening, the lower folded edge comprising a lower folded flap of knitted fabric formed with an integral seam using the subset of needles, wherein the lower folded flap projects downwardly away from the circumferential slit and lies adjacent an outer face of the garment.

[0011] A problem with prior art approaches of forming openings in garments formed using circular knitting machines is that edges of the openings are raw, and must be separately hemmed after the fabric sheath is removed from the knitting machine. For example, the raw edges may be rolled or folded to create the hem. Alternatively, an additional length of fabric may be applied over the raw edges before they are hemmed.

[0012] A particular benefit of the present invention is that the opening is effectively self-hemmed. That is, the lower folded flap provides an integrated means for hemming the lower edge of the opening. The present invention thus allows the opening to be constructed in a largely automated fashion, with improved product quality, consistency and speed.

[0013] The lower folded flap provides a particularly effective means of providing the opening with resilience. The lower folded flap thus prevents unwanted sagging of the opening. In particular, the integral seam formed during formation of the lower folded flap strengthens the lower folded edge.

[0014] By arranging the lower folded flap so that it projects downwardly away from the circumferential slit and lies adjacent to the outer face of the garment, the lower folded edge is particularly robust and resistant to sagging.

[0015] A dropped stitch preferably comprises a stitch in which adjacent yarns of the plurality of yarns are not knitted together. A row of dropped stitches may provide a or the circumferential slit opening.

[0016] The integral seam is preferably formed by forming each of a first series of stitches of the lower folded flap integrally with a respective one of a second series of stitches of the lower folded flap. That is, the integral seam preferably comprises a first series of stitches of the lower folded flap knitted integrally with a second series of stitches of the lower folded flap. The first and second series of stitches preferably define a first seam edge and second seam P4685PC00 edge of the lower folded flap, respectively. Similarly, the folded flap of knitted fabric may have a first seam edge and a second seam edge, stitches of the first seam edge being knitted integrally with corresponding stitches of the second seam edge to provide the integral seam. This arrangement provides a particularly neat and efficient means of integrally forming the integral seam. In preferred embodiments the circular knitting machine comprises a series of needles arranged in a ring and movable between a knitting position and a held position, and the lower folded flap and integral seam are formed using the subset of needles arranged so that alternate needles are in the knitting position and held position, respectively.

[0017] Circular knitting machines are also known as seamless knitting machines, because they produce fabric in a tubular form that is continuous (or seamless) in the circumferential direction. A key aspect of the circular knitting process is that certain needles of the subset of needles are held (i.e. stop knitting), while others continue to knit through a lower folded zone of a knitting pattern. When the held needles reach a point in the pattern outside of the lower folded zone, they begin to knit again, thereby joining edges of the lower folded zone to create the lower folded flap with the integral seam.

[0018] The needles are preferably latch needles, or latch-hook needles, of the type suitable for use with a circular knitting machine.

[0019] The knitting position of the needles is a position in which they are capable of knitting stitches. In the knitting position each needle may move in an up-and down motion, such that a hooked portion of the needle latches onto a yarn (or thread) fed into the circular knitting machine, to thereby knit a new row of a knitted fabric. The hold position of the needles is a position in which each held needle does not knit. That is, each held needle is not able to latch onto the yarn (or thread) being fed into the circular knitting machine.

[0020] The needles are preferably capable of creating dropped stitches. For example, a dropped stitch may comprise a stitch in which adjacent yarns of the plurality of yarns are not knitted together, such that an opening is formed.

[0021] The fabric sheath and opening are knitted via a continuous knit process so as to be formed integrally. The garment may be formed by operating the circular knitting machine according to a circular knit process. The circular knit process may comprise feeding the plurality of yarns into the circular knitting machine.

[0022] The fabric sheath is preferably continuous, or seamless, in the circumferential direction. That is, there are preferably no seams that extend axially along the fabric sheath.

[0023] The circumferential slit extends in a circumferential direction of the fabric sheath. For example, this may comprise a horizontal direction. P4685PC00

[0024] The garment may comprise attachment means attaching the lower folded flap to the outer face of the garment. For example, the attachment means may comprises a sewn seam, a bonded join or other means for attachment. In this way, the beneficial effects of the claimed arrangement of the lower folded flap can be most reliably assured.

[0025] The garment may comprise an upper folded edge defining an upper extent of the opening, the upper folded edge comprising an upper folded flap of knitted fabric formed with an integral seam, optionally using the subset of needles. In this way, the upper folded edge may also be effectively self-hemmed, and have improved resilience. In preferred embodiments the circular knitting machine comprises a series of needles arranged in a ring and movable between a knitting position and a held position, and the upper folded flap and integral seam are formed using the subset of needles arranged so that alternate needles are in the knitting position and held position, respectively.

[0026] The integral seam is preferably formed by forming each of a first series of stitches of the upper folded flap integrally with a respective one of a second series of stitches of the upper folded flap. That is, the integral seam preferably comprises a first series of stitches of the upper folded flap of knitted fabric knitted integrally with a second series of stitches of the upper folded flap of knitted fabric. The first and second series of stitches preferably define a first seam edge and second seam edge of the upper folded flap, respectively. Similarly, the folded flap of knitted fabric may have a first seam edge and a second seam edge, stitches of the first seam edge being knitted integrally with corresponding stitches of the second seam edge to provide the integral seam. This arrangement provides a particularly neat and efficient means of integrally forming the integral seam.

[0027] In preferred embodiments the upper folded flap projects downwardly away from the circumferential slit and is attached to a further outer face of the garment. This arrangement ensures that the beneficial effects of the claimed arrangement of the upper folded flap can be most reliably assured.

[0028] The garment may comprise a concealment flap formed above the opening, the concealment flap comprising a flap of knitted fabric configured to be movable between a position in which it conceals the opening and a position in which the opening is revealed. This may be particularly advantageous for some applications, such as inset pockets or thumbholes, where it is desirable to conceal the opening when not in use.

[0029] The concealment flap may be formed using all of the needles of the series of needles of the circular knitting machine and each of the plurality of yarns. That is, the concealment flap may extend around a full circumferential extent of the knitted fabric sheath. Thus, the concealment flap may have other functions or aesthetic influences within the garment. P4685PC00

[0030] In such embodiments the concealment flap may have a first seam edge and a second seam edge, stitches of the first seam edge being knitted integrally with corresponding stitches of the second seam edge to provide an integral seam of the concealment flap. For example, the first seam edge may correspond to a first row of stitches of the flap of knitted fabric of the concealment flap, and the second seam edge of the inner waistband portion may correspond to a last row of stitches of the flap of knitted fabric of the concealment flap.

[0031] In other words, in preferred embodiments each stitch of a first row of stitches of the flap of knitted fabric is formed integrally with a corresponding stitch of a last row of stitches of the flap of knitted fabric, to thereby fold the flap of knitted fabric to provide the concealment flap. This can be achieved via known means. For example, each stitch at the first row of stitches may comprise a zig-zag stitch, and dial jacks may be used to hold the zig-zag stitches during formation of the flap of knitted fabric until each held zig-zag stitch is picked up and integrated into the corresponding stitch at last row of stitches.

[0032] In some embodiments the lower folded flap of knitted fabric comprises a plurality of rows of knitted stitches, the lower folded flap having a tapered shape such that a width of each row decreases with distance from the circumferential slit. This tapered shape may provide enhanced resilience for applications such as thumbhole applications. In addition, the tapered shape of the lower folded flap may distort the circumferential slit so that it has a more open, eye-like, shape. This may similarly be advantageous in some applications, such as for thumbholes.

[0033] The tapered shape of the lower folded flap may be formed by a knitting pattern comprising a tapered stitch zone comprising a plurality of rows of stitches, each row of stitches having a smaller number of stitches than the previous row to create a tapered shape. For each row of stitches of the tapered stitch zone, alternating needles of the subset of needles are initially arranged in the held position, while the remaining needles of the subset are arranged in the knitting position. Each of the held needles is maintained in the held position continuously until the pattern reaches a row in the tapered stitch zone where that needle falls outside the tapered stitch zone, at which point that needle is moved to the knitting position. This arrangement results in stitches at the tapered edges of the tapered stitch zone being joined with stitches at the upper edge of the tapered stitch zone, to thereby form the lower folded flap.

[0034] The garment may comprise a second opening formed in the knitted fabric sheath, the second opening comprising: a second circumferential slit providing an aperture of the second opening, the second circumferential slit preferably comprising a plurality of dropped stitches in which adjacent yarns of the plurality of yarns are not knitted together; and P4685PC00 a second lower folded edge defining a lower extent of the second opening, the second lower folded edge comprising a second lower folded flap of knitted fabric formed with an integral seam, wherein the second lower folded flap projects downwardly away from the second circumferential slit and lies adjacent an outer face of the garment.

[0035] The second opening may be formed using a second subset of the needles of the series of needles of the circular knitting machine. In preferred embodiments the circular knitting machine comprises a series of needles arranged in a ring and movable between a knitting position and a held position, and the second lower folded flap and integral seam are formed using the second subset of needles arranged so that alternate needles are in the knitting position and held position, respectively.

[0036] The second opening may have any of the features of the opening defined herein.

[0037] In embodiments with a second opening and a concealment flap, the concealment flap may be formed above the opening and the second opening, and may be movable between a position in which it conceals the opening and the second opening, and a position in which the opening and second opening are revealed. In this way, a single concealment flap can act to conceal two or more openings.

[0038] In some embodiments the opening defines a pocket. The self-hemmed opening of the invention is particularly suitable for forming pocket openings.

[0039] In such pocket embodiments, the knitted fabric sheath may comprise an inner layer portion forming an inner layer of the garment and an outer layer portion forming an outer layer of the garment, the opening being formed in the outer layer portion, and the pocket being defined between the inner layer portion and the outer layer portion. This is a particularly neat and efficient means of forming a pocket in a garment formed using a circular knitting machine. Preferably, one or more sewn seams connect the inner layer portion and the outer layer portion to further define the pocket.

[0040] In some embodiments the garment may comprise a patch of fabric attached to an inner face of the knitted fabric sheath and enclosing the opening to define the pocket. In such embodiments, the upper folded edge may comprise an upper folded flap of knitted fabric formed using the subset of needles with alternating needles arranged in the knitting position and held position, wherein the upper folded flap projects downwardly away from the circumferential slit and is attached to the patch of fabric. This provides a particularly efficient means of forming a neat and resilient pocket opening.

[0041] In other embodiments the knitted fabric sheath comprises a sleeve of the garment, and the opening defines a thumbhole. The self-hemmed opening of the invention is particularly suitable for forming thumbholes. P4685PC00

[0042] In such thumbhole embodiments, the lower folded flap of knitted fabric preferably has a tapered shape as described herein.

[0043] A second aspect of the invention provides a method of forming a garment according to any preceding claim using a circular knitting machine a series of needles arranged in a ring, the needles each being movable between a knitting position and a held position, the method including feeding a plurality of yarns into the circular knitting machine and performing the following steps via a sequential continuous process: a) using all of the needles of the series of needles and the plurality of yarns to form a first portion of the knitted fabric sheath; b) forming the opening using a subset of the series of needles, by: creating a circumferential slit providing an aperture of the opening, preferably by using the subset of the series of needles to create a row of dropped stitches; and arranging alternating needles of the subset of the series of needles in the held position and remaining needles of the subset of needles in the knitting position, and knitting a plurality of rows of stitches to form the lower folded flap; and c) using all of the needles of the series of needles and the plurality of yarns to form a second portion of the knitted fabric sheath.

[0044] The method may comprise the further step of attaching the lower folded flap to the outer face of the garment.

[0045] In preferred embodiments step (b) includes an initial step of arranging alternating needles of the subset of the series of needles in the held position and remaining needles of the subset of needles in the knitting position, and knitting a plurality of rows of stitches to form an upper folded flap.

[0046] The method may further comprise the further step of attaching the upper folded flap to a further outer face of the garment.

[0047] A third aspect of the invention provides a garment knitted using the method of the second aspect, optionally wherein the garment comprises a sleeve, a pair of leggings or a sports top.

[0048] For the avoidance of doubt, features of the first aspect described herein apply equally to the second or third aspects.

[0049] Throughout the description and claims of this specification, the words "comprise" and "contain" and variations of the words, for example "comprising" and "comprises", mean P4685PC00

[0050] "including but not limited to", and do not exclude other components, integers or steps. Moreover the singular encompasses the plural unless the context otherwise requires: in particular, where the indefinite article is used, the specification is to be understood as contemplating plurality as well as singularity, unless the context requires otherwise. Preferred features of each aspect of the invention may be as described in connection with any of the other aspects. Within the scope of this application it is expressly intended that the various aspects, embodiments, examples and alternatives set out in the preceding paragraphs, in the claims and / or in the following description and drawings, and in particular the individual features thereof, may be taken independently or in any combination. That is, all embodiments and / or features of any embodiment can be combined in any way and / or combination, unless such features are incompatible.

[0051] P4685PC00

[0052] BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0053] One or more embodiments of the invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

[0054] Figures 1A-D illustrate a concealed inset pocket embodiment of the present invention incorporated into a sports top, including a front view (Figure 1A), front inside view (Figure IB), rear view (Figure 1C) and rear inside view (Figure ID) in which the openings 100 are shown in an open configuration so that their features may be more clearly seen;

[0055] Figures 2A-C illustrate a pattern suitable for a circular knitting machine to follow to produce a fabric sheath for the formation of the sports top of Figure 1, with enlarged details of Figure 2A shown in Figures 2B and 2C;

[0056] Figures 3A-D illustrate a thumbhole opening embodiment of the present invention incorporated into the sleeve of a top, including views with thumbhole openings concealed (Figures 3A and 3C), and with thumbhole openings revealed (Figures 3B and 3D);

[0057] Figures 4A-B illustrate a pattern suitable for a circular knitting machine to follow to produce a fabric sheath for the formation of the sleeves of Figure 3, with enlarged detail of Figure 4A shown in Figure 4B;

[0058] Figures 5A-B illustrate further details of the embodiment of Figures 3A-D, including a view with thumbhole opening revealed (Figure 5A) and with thumbhole opening concealed (Figure 5B);

[0059] Figures 6A-C illustrate an open inset pocket embodiment of the present invention incorporated into a pair of leggings, including a side inside view (Figure 6A), a side view (Figure 6B) and a front view (Figure 6C);

[0060] Figure 7 provides a close up view of a pocket of the embodiment of Figures 6A-C, in which the opening is shown in an open configuration so that its features may be more clearly seen; and

[0061] Figures 8A-B illustrate a pattern suitable for a circular knitting machine to follow to produce a fabric sheath for the formation of the leggings of Figure 6, with enlarged detail of Figure 8A shown in Figure 8B.

[0062] DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0063] In general terms, the invention provides a self-hemmed opening 100 as illustrated in Figures 1-8, produced by a circular knitting machine using a pattern 250, 350, 450 having the features illustrated in Figures 2A-C, 4A-B or 8A-B. P4685PC00

[0064] Circular knitting machines knit together fabric yarns, or threads, to create a fabric tube, or sheath, that is continuous, or seamless, in the circumferential direction. That is, there are no seams extending axially. Such machines comprise a series of latch-hook needles arranged in a ring, the shape and size of the ring of needles controlling the shape and size of the fabric tube. The needles can each be moved between a knitting position, in which they move in a reciprocating motion to knit together fabric yarns, and a held position, in which they do not knit. Circular knitting machines can knit using multiple different knitting stitch types, so that different visual patterns and functional effects can be achieved in the fabric tube that is produced. Example fabric finishes that can be produced include single or double jersey, mesh knit, rib knit or jacquard knit. Suitable circular knitting machines for knitting the self-hemmed opening 100 include single knit circular knitting machines produced by Santoni™.

[0065] The self-hemmed opening 100 can have many applications. Three are illustrated herein: a concealed inset pocket 200 (see Figures 1-2), a thumbhole 300 (see Figures 3-5), and an open inset pocket 400 (see Figures 6-8). The skilled reader will of course recognise other appropriate applications for the self-hemmed opening 100.

[0066] Garments and methods of the present invention utilise a circular knitting machine (not shown) comprising a series of needles arranged in a ring, the circular knitting machine being fed with a plurality of yarns (threads). Typically, all of the needles will be used to form the main body of the garment, while only a subset of the needles are used to form the self-hemmed opening 100.

[0067] In each of the illustrated embodiments the self-hemmed opening 100 is characterised by having the following features. Each of these features is formed integrally with the garment via a continuous process, using a subset of the series of needles of the circular knitting machine to knit the yarns fed to the circular knitting machine:

[0068] - an upper folded edge 102 defining an upper extent of the opening 100; a circumferential slit 104 providing the aperture of the opening 100 and defining the circumferential extent of the opening 100; and a lower folded edge 106 defining a lower extent of the opening 100.

[0069] The upper folded edge 102 is formed by arranging alternating needles of the subset of needles in the held position and the remaining needles of the subset of needles in the knitting position, and knitting one or more rows of stitches. After forming the one or more rows of stitches, the subset of needles are arranged in the knitting position and a folding row of stitches is knitted, so that the folding row of stitches becomes joined with (is formed integrally with) a first row of the one or more rows of stitches to form an upper folded flap P4685PC00 with integral seam. That is, the upper folded flap has a first seam edge and a second seam edge, stitches of the first seam edge being knitted integrally with corresponding stitches of the second seam edge to provide the integral seam. The upper folded flap provides a reinforced hemmed portion for the upper edge 102.

[0070] The circumferential slit opening 104 is subsequently formed by using each of the subset of needles to form a row of dropped stitches, so that a slit opening is formed along a circumferentially-extending line (i.e. a horizontal line).

[0071] The lower folded edge 106 is formed by arranging alternating needles of the subset of needles in the held position and the remaining needles of the subset of needles in the knitting position, and knitting a plurality of rows of stitches. After forming the plurality of rows of stitches, the subset of needles are arranged in the knitting position and a folding row of stitches is knitted, so that the folding row of stitches becomes joined with (is formed integrally with) a first row of the plurality of rows of stitches to form a lower folded flap 108 with integral seam. That is, the lower folded flap 108 has a first seam edge and a second seam edge, stitches of the first seam edge being knitted integrally with corresponding stitches of the second seam edge to provide the integral seam.

[0072] The lower folded flap 108 thus comprises an integrally-formed seam defining a folded flap of fabric that initially projects inwardly from an inner face of the knitted fabric sheath of the garment (i.e. a face opposite to an outer face of the knitted fabric). After the knitted fabric sheath of the garment is removed from the circular knitting machine, the lower folded flap 108 is then pivoted about the integrally-formed seam so that the lower folded flap 108 passes through the circumferential slit opening 104 to project outwardly away from an outer face of the knitted fabric sheath and drape downwardly from the circumferential slit opening 104. The lower folded flap 108 can be stitched to the outer face of the garment to reliably retain this position during use.

[0073] The lower folded flap 108 of the lower edge 106 has two functions: firstly, the lower folded flap 108 provides a tidy and aesthetically pleasing finish to the opening 100; and secondly, the lower folded flap 108 provides increased resilience to the lower edge 106. The lower edge 106 is typically subjected to significant distortion as the opening 100 is utilised during the life of the garment, and the lower folded flap 108 serves to maintain the shape and appearance of the lower edge 106 and ensure that the opening 100 maintains its desired shape throughout the life of the garment.

[0074] In some embodiments the self-hemmed opening 100 also comprises a concealment flap 110 that is formed by the circular knitting machine integrally with the garment via a continuous process. The concealment flap 110 comprises an extern ally- projecting folded band portion adjacent the upper edge 102 of the opening 100. The concealment flap 110 typically drapes P4685PC00 downwardly over the circumferential slit opening 104 such that it ordinarily conceals the opening 100, but a wearer can lift it to access the circumferential slit opening 104 during use. The concealment flap 110 may be stitched at either end thereof to reliably retain its downwardly draped position during normal use.

[0075] The concealment flap 110 is formed by using the series of needles and the plurality of yarns to knit a plurality of rows of stitches, commencing with a first row of stitches, to form a concealment flap portion. The first row of stitches is integrated with a final row of stitches of the concealment flap 110 to form an integral seam. Techniques for achieving this effect are known in the art. For example, a row of zig-zag stitches may be formed at the first row of stitches and a series of dial jacks used to hold the zig-zag stitches while the concealment flap portion is knitted. At the final row of stitches of the concealment flap the zig-zag stitches are picked up from the dial jacks and integrated into that final row of stitches. This arrangement has the effect of causing the first row of stitches to be integrated with the final row of stitches, so that the concealment flap portion is folded to provide the concealment flap 110 with integral seam.

[0076] While in the illustrated embodiments the concealment flap 110 is formed using all the needles of the series of needles, in other embodiments it may be formed using the subset of needles used to form the upper edge 102, circumferential slit 104 and lower edge 106, or a different subset of needles of the series of needles.

[0077] The concealed inset pocket embodiment is illustrated in Figures 1-2. Here, the garment into which two self-hemmed openings 100 are incorporated is a sports top 200 in the form of a close-fitting crop top, bralette top, or tank top.

[0078] The sports top is formed by following the pattern 250 of Figures 2A-C to create a seamless tube-shaped fabric sheath using a circular knitting machine.

[0079] The knitted fabric sheath comprises an outer layer portion 210 and inner layer portion 220 joined seamlessly by an under-bust band 230. A first segment of the fabric sheath forms a front portion of the sports top and a second segment of the fabric sheath forms a rear portion of the sports top. Specifically, the outer layer portion 210 comprises an outer front panel 212 and an outer rear panel 214 seamlessly joined at the sides thereof. Similarly, the inner layer portion 220 comprises an inner front panel 222 and an inner rear panel 224 seamlessly joined at the sides thereof. The outer layer portion 210 further comprises the concealment flap 110, which extends across both the outer front 212 and outer rear 214 panels.

[0080] The sports top incorporates a front pocket 260 and a rear pocket 270, each of which is formed using a self-hemmed opening 100 as described above. P4685PC00

[0081] The self-hemmed opening 100 of the front pocket 260 is formed on the left side sleeve portion of the outer front panel 212. The opening 100 thus provides access to the pouch formed between the outer front panel 212 and the inner front panel 222. A stitched seam 262 fastens outer front panel 212 and inner front panel 222 together to define a base of the front pocket 260.

[0082] The self-hemmed opening 100 of the rear pocket 270 is formed on the central yoke portion of the outer rear panel 214. The opening 100 thus provides access to the pouch formed between the outer rear panel 214 and inner rear panel 224. A stitched seam 272 fastens outer rear panel 214 and inner rear panel 224 together to define a base of the rear pocket 270.

[0083] For each of the self-hemmed openings 100 the upper and lower folded flaps may be stitched in place. For example, the lower folded flap 108 may be stitched to the outer front panel 212 or outer rear panel 222, respectively. Similarly, the upper folded flap 108 may be stitched to the inner front panel 214 or inner rear panel 224, respectively, or to an underside of the concealment flap 110.

[0084] The concealment flap 110 projects from the outer layer 210 at a position directly above the openings 100 of the front 260 and rear 270 pockets. In the illustrated embodiment the concealment flap 110 extends around the full circumference of the fabric sheath so that it extends across both of the outer front panel 212 and outer rear panel 214. The concealment flap 110 drapes downwardly to obscure the openings 100, and the sewn hems 242 secure the concealment flap 100 in this position in normal use. When a wearer wishes to access the openings 100, the concealment flap 100 can be lifted to reveal the openings 100, as illustrated in Figures IB and 1C.

[0085] Figures 2A-C illustrate a knitting pattern 250 suitable for following to knit a sports top 200 as illustrated in Figures 1A-D using a circular knitting machine. The pattern 250 is shown in a two-dimensional form, but the skilled reader will understand that, in the resulting fabric sheath, the left and right edges of the pattern 250 are joined together in a seamless fashion.

[0086] The pattern 250 is followed from the top to the bottom, as illustrated in Figure 2A. The pattern 250 comprises a series of sequences of rows of stitches that together provide the fabric sheath, as follows:

[0087] 1. A first outer sequence 280 comprising a series of rows of stitches formed using each of the needles of the series of needles in the knitting position to form an upper portion of the outer layer 210. Each of the rows of stitches may be formed from a jersey knit stitch. P4685PC00

[0088] 2. A concealment flap sequence 282 comprising a series of rows of stitches formed using each of the needles of the series of needles in the knitting position to form a concealment portion. Each of the rows of stitches may be formed from rib knit stitches, such as a three by one rib stitch. The concealment flap sequence 282 comprises a final row of stitches integrated with a first row of stitches whereby the concealment portion is folded to form the concealment flap 110 with an integral seam. This effect can be achieved by known means. For example, a row of zig-zag stitches may be formed at the first row of stitches and a series of dial jacks used to hold the zig-zag stitches while the following rows of the concealment flap sequence 282 are knitted. At the final row of stitches the zig-zag stitches are picked up from the dial jacks and integrated into that final row of stitches.

[0089] 3. A front pocket sequence 290 (see Figure 2B) formed using a first subset of the series of needles. The front pocket sequence 290 comprises:

[0090] • One or more rows of stitches 291 formed using the first subset of needles with alternating needles thereof in the knitting and held positions, followed by a folding row of stiches formed using the first subset of needles in the knitting position. In this way, the folding row of stitches becomes joined with a first row of the one or more rows of stitches 291 to form the upper folded flap and integral seam of the upper folded edge 102.

[0091] • A slit opening row in which each of the subset of needles drops a stitch to create the circumferential slit 104 of the opening 100. In other words, each of the subset of needles does not knit together adjacent yarns of the plurality of yarns in the slit opening row of the front pocket sequence 290, so that dropped stitches are formed.

[0092] • A plurality of rows of stitches 292 formed using the first subset of needles with alternating needles thereof in the knitting and held positions, followed by a folding row of stitches formed using the first subset of needles in the knitting position. In this way, the folding row of stitches becomes joined with a first row of the one or more rows of stitches 291 to form the lower folded flap 108 with integral seam, that together define the lower folded edge 106 of the opening 100.

[0093] 4. A rear pocket sequence 295 (see Figure 2C) formed simultaneously with step (3), using a second subset of the series of needles. The rear pocket sequence 295 comprises:

[0094] • One or more rows of stitches 296 formed using the second subset of needles with alternating needles thereof in the knitting and held positions, followed by P4685PC00 a folding row of stiches formed using the second subset of needles in the knitting position. In this way, the folding row of stitches becomes joined with a first row of the one or more rows of stitches 296 to form the upper folded flap and integral seam that provide the upper folded edge 102 of the opening 100.

[0095] • A slit opening row in which each of the subset of needles drops a stitch to create the circumferential slit 104 of the opening 100. In other words, each of the subset of needles does not knit together adjacent yarns of the plurality of yarns in the slit opening row of the rear pocket sequence 295 sequence, so that dropped stiches are formed.

[0096] • A plurality of rows of stitches 297 formed using the second subset of needles with alternating needles thereof in the knitting and held positions, followed by a folding row of stitches formed using the second subset of needles in the knitting position. In this way, the folding row of stitches becomes joined with a first row of the one or more rows of stitches 297 to form the lower folded flap 108 and integral seam that together define the lower folded edge 106 of the opening 100.

[0097] 5. A second outer sequence 284 formed in tandem with steps (3) and (4). The second outer sequence 284 comprises a series of rows of stitches formed using each of the needles of the series of needles in the knitting position to form a lower portion of the outer layer 220. Each of the rows of stitches may be formed from a jersey knit stitch.

[0098] 6. An under-bust band sequence 286 comprising a series of rows of stitches formed using each of the needles of the series of needles in the knitting position to form an under-bust band portion. Each of the rows of stitches may be formed from rib knit stitches, such as a three by one rib stitch. The under-bust band sequence 286 comprises a final row of stitches integrated with a first row of stitches to form an integral seam, whereby the under-bust band portion is folded to form the under-bust band 230. This effect can be achieved by known means. For example, a row of zigzag stitches may be formed at the first row of stitches and a series of dial jacks used to hold the zig-zag stitches while the following rows of the under-bust band sequence 286 are knitted. At the final row of stitches the zig-zag stitches are picked up from the dial jacks and integrated into that final row of stitches.

[0099] 7. A second outer sequence 288 comprising a series of rows of stitches formed using each of the needles of the series of needles in the knitting position to form the inner layer 220. Each of the rows of stitches may be formed from a jersey knit stitch. P4685PC00

[0100] After the circular knitting machine has completed following the pattern 250, the knitted fabric sheath is removed and the following steps undertaken to complete the sports top 200:

[0101] 1. The fabric sheath is cut along the cut lines 252 to create the shape of the neck and arm holes.

[0102] 2. The fabric sheath is then folded about the under-bust band 230 so that the outer front panel 212 overlies the inner front panel 222, and the outer rear panel 214 overlies the inner rear panel 224.

[0103] 3. The outer 212 and inner 222 front panels are then joined to the outer 214 and inner 224 rear panels via sewn seams 240, and all cut edges are hemmed via sewn hems 242.

[0104] 4. For each of the front pocket 260 and the rear pocket 270, the lower folded flap 108 is pivoted about the integral seam so that the lower folded flap 108 passes through the circumferential slit opening 104 to project outwardly away from an outer face of the sports top and drape downwardly from the circumferential slit opening 104. The lower folded flap 108 is then stitched to the outer face of the sports top to reliably retain this position during use.

[0105] The thumb hole embodiment is illustrated in Figures 3-5. Here, the garment into which two self-hemmed openings 100 are incorporated is a sleeve 300 of a long-sleeved top. The sleeve 300 is formed by following the pattern 350 of Figures 4A-B to create a seamless tube-shaped fabric sheath using a circular knitting machine.

[0106] The fabric sheath comprises: a cuff portion 310 to form a cuff of the sleeve; a thumbhole portion 320 to form a portion of the sleeve extending from the cuff and comprising a selfhemmed opening 100 to provide a thumbhole; a concealment band portion 330 to form the concealment band 110 projecting outwardly from the sleeve; and a sleeve portion 340 to form a main body of the sleeve.

[0107] The concealment band 110 projects from the sleeve 300 at a position directly above the thumbhole opening 100. As illustrated in Figures 3A and 3C, when the thumbhole opening 100 is not in use, the thumbhole portion 320 of the sleeve 300 is concealed by the concealment band 110. The concealment band 110 is raised in the region of the thumbhole opening 100 to allow access thereto by a user's thumb, as illustrated in Figures 3B and 3D.

[0108] Figures 4A-B illustrate a knitting pattern 350 suitable for following to knit a sleeve 300 as illustrated in Figures 3A-D and 5A-B using a circular knitting machine. The pattern 350 is shown in a two-dimensional form, but the skilled reader will understand that, in the P4685PC00 resulting fabric sheath, the left and right edges of the pattern 350 are joined together in a seamless fashion.

[0109] The pattern 350 is followed from the top to the bottom, as illustrated in Figure 4A. The pattern 350 comprises a series of sequences of rows of stitches that together provide the fabric sheath, as follows:

[0110] 1. A sleeve portion sequence comprising a series of rows of stitches formed using each of the needles of the series of needles in the knitting position to form the sleeve portion 340. Each of the rows of stitches may be formed from a jersey knit stitch.

[0111] 2. A concealment flap sequence comprising a series of rows of stitches formed using each of the needles of the series of needles in the knitting position to form the concealment band portion 330. Each of the rows of stitches may be formed from rib knit stitches, such as a three by one rib stitch. The concealment flap sequence comprises a final row of stitches integrated with a first row of stitches to form an integral seam, whereby the concealment band portion 330 is folded to form the concealment flap 110. This effect can be achieved by known means. For example, a row of zig-zag stitches may be formed at the first row of stitches and a series of dial jacks used to hold the zig-zag stitches while the following rows of the concealment flap sequence are knitted. At the final row of stitches the zig-zag stitches are picked up from the dial jacks and integrated into that final row of stitches.

[0112] 3. A thumbhole sequence comprising a series of rows of stitches formed using each of the needles of the series of needles in the knitting position to form the thumbhole portion 320. Each of the rows of stitches may be formed from a jersey knit stitch.

[0113] 4. A thumbhole opening sequence (see Figure 4B) formed in tandem with the thumbhole sequence, using a subset of the series of needles to form the thumbhole opening 100. The thumbhole opening sequence comprises:

[0114] • One or more rows of stitches 360 formed using the subset of needles with alternating needles thereof in the knitting and held positions, followed by a folding row of stiches formed using the subset of needles in the knitting position. In this way, the folding row of stitches becomes joined with a first row of the one or more rows of stitches 360 to form the integral seam and upper folded flap of the upper folded edge 102 of the opening 100.

[0115] A slit opening row 361 in which each of the needles of the subset of needles drops a stitch to create the circumferential slit 104 of the opening 100. In other words, each of the subset of needles does not knit together adjacent P4685PC00 yarns of the plurality of yarns in the slit opening row 361 of the thumbhole opening sequence, so that dropped stiches are formed.

[0116] • A tapered stitch zone 362 comprising a plurality of rows of stitches, each row of stitches having a smaller number of stitches than the previous row to create a tapered shape. For each row of stitches of the tapered stitch zone 362, alternating needles of the subset of needles are initially arranged in the held position, while the remaining needles of the subset are arranged in the knitting position. Each of the held needles is maintained in the held position continuously until the pattern 350 reaches a row in the tapered stitch zone 362 where that needle falls outside the tapered stitch zone 362, at which point that needle is moved to the knitting position. This arrangement results in stitches at the tapered edges of the tapered stitch zone (indicated with reference 364) being joined with stitches at the upper edge of the tapered stitch zone (indicated with reference 366), to thereby form the lower folded flap 180 and integral seam that together define the lower folded edge 106 of the opening 100.

[0117] 5. A cuff portion sequence comprising a series of rows of stitches formed using each of the needles of the series of needles in the knitting position to form the cuff portion 310. Each of the rows of stitches may be formed from rib knit stitches, such as a three by one rib stitch. The cuff portion sequence comprises a final row of stitches integrated with a first row of stitches to form an integral seam, whereby the cuff portion is folded to form the cuff. This effect can be achieved by known means. For example, a row of zig-zag stitches may be formed at the first row of stitches and a series of dial jacks used to hold the zig-zag stitches while the following rows of the cuff portion sequence are knitted. At the final row of stitches the zig-zag stitches are picked up from the dial jacks and integrated into that final row of stitches.

[0118] After the circular knitting machine has completed following the pattern 350, the knitted fabric sheath is removed and the two thumbhole openings 100 are completed. For each of the thumbhole openings 100, the lower folded flap 108 is pivoted about the integrally- formed seam so that the lower folded flap 108 passes through the circumferential slit opening 104 to project outwardly away from an outer face of the sleeve 300 and drape downwardly from the circumferential slit opening 104. The lower folded flap 108 is then stitched to the outer face of the sleeve 300 to reliably retain this position during use.

[0119] The open inset pocket embodiment is illustrated in Figures 6-8. Here, the garment into which two self-hemmed openings 100 are incorporated is a pair of leggings 400. The leggings 400 are formed by following the pattern 450 of Figures 8A-B to create a seamless tube-shaped fabric sheath using a circular knitting machine. P4685PC00

[0120] The fabric sheath comprises, from top to bottom: a waistband portion 410 to form a waistband of the leggings 400; and a main portion 420 to form a main part of the leggings 400 that encase the hip region and legs of a wearer in use. The main portion 420 incorporates two self-hemmed openings 100 to form left and right side pockets 440 of the leggings 300.

[0121] Figures 8A-C illustrate a knitting pattern 450 suitable for following to knit a pair of leggings 400 as illustrated in Figures 6-7 using a circular knitting machine. The pattern 450 is shown in a two-dimensional form, but the skilled reader will understand that, in the resulting fabric sheath, the left and right edges of the pattern 450 are joined together in a seamless fashion.

[0122] The pattern 450 is followed from the top to the bottom, as illustrated in Figure 8A. The pattern 450 comprises a series of sequences of rows of stitches that together provide the fabric sheath, as follows:

[0123] 1. A waistband sequence 460 comprising a series of rows of stitches formed using each of the needles of the series of needles in the knitting position to form the waistband portion 410. Each of the rows of stitches may be formed from rib knit stitches, such as a three by one rib stitch. The waistband sequence comprises a final row of stitches integrated with a first row of stitches of the waistband sequence to form an integral seam, whereby the waistband portion is folded to form the waistband. This effect can be achieved by known means. For example, a row of zig-zag stitches may be formed at the first row of stitches and a series of dial jacks used to hold the zigzag stitches while the following rows of the waistband sequence 460 are knitted. At the final row of stitches the zig-zag stitches are picked up from the dial jacks and integrated into that final row of stitches.

[0124] 2. A first main portion sequence 462 comprising a series of rows of stitches formed using each of the needles of the series of needles in the knitting position to form an upper portion of the main portion 420. Each of the rows of stitches may be formed from a jersey knit stitch.

[0125] 3. Left and right pocket sequences 464 (see Figure 8B) formed in tandem using first and second subsets of the series of needles. The remaining needles of the series of needles do not knit, such that there are no-knit zones 470 of the pattern 450 between the left and right pocket sequences 464. Each of the left and right pocket sequences 464 comprises:

[0126] • A first pair of ruched stitch zones 472 at upper left and right lateral extents of the pocket sequence 464, to form reinforced regions to the left and right of an upper region of the opening 100. P4685PC00

[0127] • A plurality of rows of stitches 465 formed using the first or second subset of needles, respectively, with alternating needles thereof in the knitting and held positions, followed by a folding row of stiches formed using the first or second subset of needles in the knitting position. In this way, the folding row of stitches becomes joined with a first row of the one or more rows of stitches 465 to form the upper folded flap and integral seam that together define the upper folded edge 102 of the opening 100.

[0128] • A slit opening row 466 in which each of the needles of the first or second subset of needles, respectively, drops a stitch to create the circumferential slit 104 of the opening 100. In other words, each of the needles of the first and second subsets of needles does not knit together adjacent yarns of the plurality of yarns in the slit opening row 466 of the left and right pocket sequences 464 sequences, so that dropped stiches are formed.

[0129] • A plurality of rows of stitches 467 formed using the first or second subset of needles, respectively, with alternating needles thereof in the knitting and held positions, followed by a folding row of stitches formed using the first or second subset of needles in the knitting position. In this way, the folding row of stitches becomes joined with a first row of the one or more rows of stitches 467 to form the lower folded flap 108 and integral seam that together define the lower folded edge 106 of the opening 100.

[0130] • A second pair of ruched stitch zones 474 at lower left and right lateral extents of the pocket sequence 464, to form reinforced regions to the left and right of a lower region of the opening 100.

[0131] 4. A second main portion sequence 468 comprising a series of rows of stitches formed using each of the needles of the series of needles in the knitting position to form a lower portion of the main portion 420. Each of the rows of stitches may be formed from a jersey knit stitch.

[0132] After formation of the fabric sheath by following the pattern 450, it is removed from the circular knitting machine and the main portion 420 is cut along the cut lines 452 and sewn seams formed to create the shape of the left and right leg portions of the leggings 400, as is known in the art.

[0133] To form each of the left and right side pockets 440, a generally rectangular patch of fabric is sewn to an internal face of the main portion 420 of the fabric sheath via pocket seams 442 to form a pouch therebetween with a respective opening 100 providing an upper opening to that pouch. P4685PC00

[0134] To complete each opening, the following steps are performed:

[0135] 1. The lower folded flap 108 is pivoted about the integrally-formed seam so that the lower folded flap 108 passes through the circumferential slit opening 104 to project outwardly away from an outer face of the knitted fabric sheath and drape downwardly from the circumferential slit opening 104. The lower folded flap 108 is stitched to the outer face of the garment via a stich line 454 to reliably retain this position during use.

[0136] 2. The upper folded flap is pivoted about the integrally-formed seam so that the upper folded flap drapes downwardly from the circumferential slit opening 104. The lower folded flap 108 is then stitched to the fabric patch of the pocket 440 via a stich line 456 to reliably retain this position during use.

[0137] 3. Reinforcement stitches 458 are sewn to left and right edges of the circumferential slit 104 to provide additional reinforcement.

[0138] The skilled reader will understand that any of the features described above in relation to any embodiment or aspect of the invention may be applied to other embodiments or aspects of the invention, or combined with features of other embodiments of aspects of the invention.

Claims

P4685PC00CLAIMS1. A garment formed via a continuous process from a plurality of yarns using a circular knitting machine, the garment including: a knitted fabric sheath formed using the plurality of yarns; and an opening formed in the knitted fabric sheath, the opening comprising: a circumferential slit providing an aperture of the opening; and a lower folded edge defining a lower extent of the opening, the lower folded edge comprising a lower folded flap of knitted fabric formed with an integral seam, wherein the lower folded flap projects downwardly away from the circumferential slit and lies adjacent an outer face of the garment.

2. A garment according to claim 1, comprising attachment means attaching the lower folded flap to the outer face of the garment, wherein the attachment means optionally comprises a sewn seam.

3. A garment according to claim 1 or claim 2, comprising an upper folded edge defining an upper extent of the opening, the upper folded edge comprising an upper folded flap of knitted fabric formed with an integral seam.

4. A garment according to claim 3, wherein the upper folded flap projects downwardly away from the circumferential slit and is attached to a further outer face of the garment.

5. A garment according to any preceding claim, comprising a concealment flap formed above the opening, the concealment flap comprising a flap of knitted fabric configured to be movable between a position in which it conceals the opening and a position in which the opening is revealed.

6. A garment according to claim 5, wherein the concealment flap extends around an entire circumferential extent of the knitted fabric sheath.

7. A garment according to any preceding claim, wherein the lower folded flap of knitted fabric comprises a plurality of rows of knitted stitches, the lower folded flap having a tapered shape such that a width of each row decreases with distance from the circumferential slit.

8. A garment according to any preceding claim, comprising a second opening formed in the knitted fabric sheath, the second opening comprising:22P4685PC00 a second circumferential slit providing an aperture of the second opening ; and a second lower folded edge defining a lower extent of the second opening, the second lower folded edge comprising a second lower folded flap of knitted fabric formed with an integral seam, wherein the second lower folded flap projects downwardly away from the second circumferential slit and lies adjacent an outer face of the garment.

9. A garment according to claim 8 and including the features of claim 5 or claim 6, wherein the concealment flap is formed above the opening and the second opening, and is movable between a position in which it conceals the opening and the second opening, and a position in which the opening and second opening are revealed.

10. A garment according to any preceding claim, wherein the opening defines a pocket.

11. A garment according to claim 10, wherein the knitted fabric sheath comprises an inner layer portion forming an inner layer of the garment and an outer layer portion forming an outer layer of the garment, the opening being formed in the outer layer portion, and the pocket being defined between the inner layer portion and the outer layer portion, optionally wherein one or more sewn seams connect the inner layer portion and the outer layer portion to further define the pocket.

12. A garment according to claim 10 or claim 11, comprising a patch of fabric attached to an inner face of the knitted fabric sheath and enclosing the opening to define the pocket.

13. A garment according to claim 12, wherein the upper folded edge comprises an upper folded flap of knitted fabric formed with an integral seam, wherein the upper folded flap projects downwardly away from the circumferential slit and is attached to the patch of fabric.

14. A garment according to any preceding claim, wherein the knitted fabric sheath comprises a sleeve of the garment, and the opening defines a thumbhole.

15. A method of forming a garment according to any preceding claim using a circular knitting machine comprising a series of needles arranged in a ring, the needles each being movable between a knitting position and a held position, the method including feeding a plurality of yarns into the circular knitting machine and performing the following steps via a sequential continuous process: a) using the needles of the series of needles and the plurality of yarns to form a first portion of the knitted fabric sheath; b) forming the opening using a subset of the series of needles, by:P4685PC00 creating a circumferential slit providing the aperture of the opening; and arranging alternating needles of the subset of the series of needles in the held position and remaining needles of the subset of needles in the knitting position, and knitting a plurality of rows of stitches to form the lower folded flap; and c) using the needles of the series of needles and the plurality of yarns to form a second portion of the knitted fabric sheath.

16. A method according to claim 15, comprising the further step of attaching the lower folded flap to the outer face of the garment.

17. A method according to claim 15 or claim 16, wherein step (b) includes an initial step of arranging alternating needles of the subset of the series of needles in the held position and remaining needles of the subset of needles in the knitting position, and knitting a plurality of rows of stitches to form an upper folded flap.

18. A method according to any of claims 15 to 17, comprising the further step of attaching the upper folded flap to a further outer face of the garment.

19. A garment knitted using the method of any of claims 15 to 18, optionally wherein the garment comprises a sleeve, a pair of leggings or a sports top.

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