Process for dyeing keratin fibres with a composition comprising at least one dye, rinsing the keratin fibres, then treating the solution resulting from the rinsing with at least one persulfate

The process of applying a dye to keratin fibers and treating the rinsing solution with persulfate addresses the environmental issue of residual dyes by degrading them, ensuring effective hair coloring and reduced water pollution.

WO2026062191A1PCT designated stage Publication Date: 2026-03-26LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2025-09-19
Publication Date
2026-03-26

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair dyeing processes result in significant amounts of residual dyes being rinsed off into water, posing environmental concerns, and there is a need for a process that reduces dye presence while maintaining effective hair coloring.

Method used

A process involving the application of a dye composition to keratin fibers, followed by rinsing and treating the rinsing solution with persulfate to degrade dyes into environmentally friendly molecules or mineralize them, using an advanced oxidation process.

Benefits of technology

Significantly reduces the amount of residual dyes in water from hair dyeing processes, effectively treating rinsing waters and minimizing environmental impact without affecting the dyeing results.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, which comprises applying to the keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, a composition (A) comprising at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof, rinsing the keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, and treating the solution resulting from the rinsing with at least one persulfate. The invention also relates to a process for treating a water comprising at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof, wherein this water is contacted with at least one persulfate.
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Description

Process for dyeing keratin fibres with a composition comprising at least one dye, rinsing the keratin fibres, then treating the solution resulting from the rinsing with at least one persulfate

[0001] The invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, which comprises applying to the keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, a composition (A) comprising at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof, rinsing the keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, and treating the solution resulting from the rinsing with at least one persulfate.

[0002] The invention also relates to a process for treating a water comprising at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof, wherein this water is contacted with at least one persulfate.

[0003] The present invention lastly relates to the use of at least one persulfate as defined hereinafter for the degradation of dyes, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof, which are present in an aqueous solution comprising at least 80% of water.

[0004] Two major methods are known for dyeing human keratin fibres, and more particularly the hair.

[0005] One of these two methods is that of permanent or oxidation dyeing. This dyeing method uses one or more oxidation dye precursors and usually one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.

[0006] In general, oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give access to coloured species.

[0007] The shades obtained with these oxidation bases are quite often varied by combining them with one or more couplers, these couplers being notably chosen from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.

[0008] The second dyeing method, known as semi-permanent or direct dyeing, comprises the application of direct dyes, which are molecules with affinity for the fibres and which colour even in the absence of an oxidizing agent added to the compositions containing them. Given the nature of the molecules used, they tend rather to remain on the surface of the fibre and penetrate relatively little into the fibre, when compared with the small molecules of oxidation dye precursors.

[0009] The direct dyes generally used are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes. The chemical species used may be nonionic, anionic (acidic dyes) or cationic (basic dyes). Direct dyes may also be natural dyes.

[0010] Compositions containing one or more direct dyes are applied to the keratin fibres for a time necessary to obtain the desired colouring, and are then rinsed out.

[0011] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges.

[0012] As hair dyeing products are rinsed off, it therefore proves essential to provide more durable dyeing compositions and / or processes that allow these environmental issues to be met.

[0013] In this context, it is important to develop dyeing processes that are capable of reducing the presence of dyes in the environment, and in particular in the waters resulting from rinsing.

[0014] There is therefore a real need to develop a process for dyeing keratin fibres which makes it possible to reduce the amount of residual dyes in the waters resulting from rinsing, whilst not adversely affecting the dyeings obtained.

[0015] We have developed a system for treating waters containing dyes or their reaction products. This system allows the degradation of the latter in situ, based on an advanced oxidation process (AOP) which involves formation of free radicals, in this case by virtue of the addition of a particular reagents system to the medium to be treated.

[0016] The process according to the invention thus makes it possible to significantly reduce the amount of residual dyes in the waters originating from the rinsing of keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair at the end of the dyeing process.

[0017] It also makes it possible to treat the rinsing waters collected during a process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair.

[0018] By “treating” is meant the oxidizing of the dyes and the reaction products thereof into environmentally friendly molecules, or even to the point of their mineralization.

[0019] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

[0020] In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0021] Moreover, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0022] Process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair

[0023] The aims stated in the introduction, and others, are achieved by the present invention, a subject of which is thus a process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, comprising the following steps:

[0024] a) applying to the keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, a composition(A)comprising at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof;

[0025] b) rinsing the keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, preferably with water;

[0026] c) treating the solution resulting from the rinsing of the keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, with at least one persulfate.

[0027] The dyeing process according to the invention employs a dyeing composition (A).

[0028] According to one preferred embodiment, the composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention is a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, notably the hair.Composition (A)Dye

[0029] The composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof.

[0030] These direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.

[0031] The term “direct dye” is understood to mean coloured entities. These are dyes which will spread superficially on the fibre.

[0032] These synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0033] Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2 nitro-4-ß- hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1-amino-2 nitro-4-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; 1,4-bis(ß-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-ß-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)benzene; 1-ß-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(ß-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; 1-amino-3-methyl-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-methoxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-6-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

[0034] Among the azo direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

[0035] Among the hydrazono direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87.

[0036] Among the nitroaryl direct dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol,N,N’-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitrophenylenediamine.

[0037] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50.

[0038] Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-β-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, 1,4-bis(β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

[0039] Among theazinedirect dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

[0040] Among theindoaminedirect dyes, mention may be made of: 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis(β-4’-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2’-methoxy-4’-amino)anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2’-chloro-4’-hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3’-chloro-4’-methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4’-N-(ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinoneimine.

[0041] The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllines, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.

[0042] Among the ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin C1, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and natural extracts containing same.

[0043] When the composition (A) comprises at least one direct dye, it or they are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).

[0044] The composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention preferably comprises one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes.

[0045] The oxidation dyes can be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.

[0046] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.

[0047] The composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention preferably comprises one or more oxidation bases.

[0048] The oxidation bases can be present in the form of salts, of solvates and / or of solvates of salts.

[0049] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention are chosen in particular from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0050] Moreover, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1to C4alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0051] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of the salts.

[0052] The para-phenylenediamines which may be mentioned include, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4’-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4’-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of their salts.

[0053] Preference is given in particular, among the abovementioned para-phenylenediamines, to para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of their salts.

[0054] The bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines which may be mentioned include, for example, N,N’-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N’-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(ethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-amino-3’-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.

[0055] The para-aminophenols which are mentioned include, for example, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.

[0056] The ortho-aminophenols which may be mentioned include, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.

[0057] Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, are pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.

[0058] The pyridine derivatives which may be mentioned include the compounds for example described in the patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.

[0059] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples which may be mentioned comprise pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.

[0060] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridines and preferably substituted on carbon atom 2 with:

[0061] a) a (di)(C1-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted with at least one hydroxy, amino or imidazolium group;

[0062] b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted with one or more (C1-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(C1-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or

[0063] c) a (C1-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a β-hydroxyalkoxy group, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.

[0064] The pyrimidine derivatives which may be mentioned include the compounds described, for example, in the patents DE 2359399, JP 88-169571, JP 05-63124 and EP 0 770 375 or the patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts, and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

[0065] The pyrazole derivatives which may be mentioned include the compounds described in the patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and the patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4’-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4’-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2’-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of the salts. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.

[0066] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferentially 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.

[0067] The pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned comprise diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in the patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, their salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts.

[0068] Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.

[0069] Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or 2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.

[0070] Preferably, the one or more oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0071] When the composition (A) comprises at least one oxidation base, the one or more oxidation bases are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0072] The oxidation dye(s) can also be chosen from one or more couplers, which can be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.

[0073] Preferably, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.

[0074] Mention may in particular be made, among the couplers of use according to the invention, of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, and also the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of their salts.

[0075] Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol and 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts, and the corresponding mixtures.

[0076] In general, the addition salts of the couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from the addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0077] Moreover, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched C1-C4alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0078] When the composition (A) comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition (A) ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0079] Preferably, the total content of the dyes ranges preferably from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0080] When they are present, the total content of the oxidation dyes preferably varies from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Alkaline agent

[0081] The composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one alkaline agent.

[0082] The alkaline agents of use according to the invention can be inorganic, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.

[0083] Within the meaning of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” and “basifying agent” are used without distinction.

[0084] The inorganic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal carbonates or bicarbonates, such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal phosphates, such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates, such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines different from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] “Alkanolamine” is understood to mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0087] Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4hydroxyalkyl radicals, are in particular suitable for implementing the invention.

[0088] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.

[0089] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

[0090] The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

[0091] Use may be made in particular of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.

[0092] The alkaline agent(s) useful according to the invention is(are) preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as ammonium (hydrogen)carbonate, sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from alkanolamines and ammonium hydroxide, better still from alkanolamines, even better still monoethanolamine.

[0093] In one particular embodiment, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is free of ammonium hydroxide.

[0094] The total content of the alkaline agent(s) varies, when they are present, preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 30% by weight, better still from 2% to 25% by weight, even better still from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0095] According to one particular embodiment, the total content of alkanolamine, preferably of monoethanolamine, ranges preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 2% to 25% by weight, even better still from 4% to 20% by weight, or even from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0096] According to one embodiment, the pH of the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention is between 8 and 13, preferably between 9.0 and 12.

[0097] The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) commonly used in the dyeing of keratin fibres, such as those described hereinabove, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.Sequestrants

[0098] The composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one sequestering (or chelating) agent.

[0099] Preferably, the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more sequestering agents.

[0100] The definition of a “sequestering agent” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to a person skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated with a metal ion, that is to say that it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring which includes the metal ion).

[0101] A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron-donating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.

[0102] In the context of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof.

[0103] The salts are notably alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.

[0104] Mention may be made, by way of example of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids, of the following compounds: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, such as disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryl iminodiacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), β-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509 382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid, such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-di(carboxymethyl)glutamic acid and its salts, such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA), such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.

[0105] By way of example of chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid, mention may be made of the following compounds: diethylenetriamine-penta (methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.

[0106] By way of example of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid, mention may be made of the following compounds: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.

[0107] According to one embodiment, the sequestering agent(s) of use according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestering agents, that is to say sequestering agents which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.

[0108] The phosphorus-based sequestering agent(s) used in the composition (A) employed in the process according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0109] - inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;

[0110] - organic phosphorus-based derivatives, for instance organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and / or alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts thereof, such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and mixtures thereof.

[0111] Preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestering agent(s) is (are) chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.

[0112] The phosphorus-based sequestering agent(s) can be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestering agent(s) is (are) chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).

[0113] The phosphorus-based sequestering agent(s) can be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestering agent(s) is (are) chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or its alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts, such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.

[0114] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestering agent(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.

[0115] Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestering agent(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.

[0116] According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-di(carboxymethyl)glutamic acid (GLDA) and its salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] More preferentially, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and its salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts and notably the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.

[0119] When the composition (A) comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) ranges preferably from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Surfactants

[0120] The composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention may further comprise one or more surfactants.

[0121] Preferably, the composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0122] Preferably, the composition(A)comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

[0123] The anionic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants.

[0124] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

[0125] In the present description, a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

[0126] The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Of course, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.

[0127] It is understood in the present description that:

[0128] - the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0129] - the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3–) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and

[0130] - the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.

[0131] The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-).

[0132] They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-C30aryl)ether carboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0133] Use may also be made of the C6-C24alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.

[0134] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those including from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by KAO under the AKYPO names.

[0135] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

[0136] R1’–(OC2H4)n’–OCH2COOA (1)

[0137] in which:

[0138] - R1'represents a linear or branched C6-C24alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical, a radical R2’CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2’denoting a linear or branched C9-C21alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably R1’is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18, alkyl radical;

[0139] - n’ is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,

[0140] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

[0141] Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0142] - acylglutamates, notably of C6-C24or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0143] - acylsarcosinates, notably of C6-C24or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

[0144] - acyllactylates, notably of C12-C28or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0145] - C6-C24and notably C12-C20acylglycinates;

[0146] - (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, and notably (C12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those including from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0147] - polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0148] in particular in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0149] The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3–). They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;

[0150] the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0151] it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0152] Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0153] - C6-C24and notably C12-C20olefin sulfonates;

[0154] - C6-C24and notably C12-C20alkyl sulfosuccinates, notably lauryl sulfosuccinates;

[0155] - C6-C24and notably C12-C20alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

[0156] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates;

[0157] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0158] The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-).

[0159] They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds;

[0160] the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0161] it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0162] Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0163] - alkyl sulfates, notably of C6-C24or even C12-C20, and

[0164] - alkyl ether sulfates, notably of C6-C24or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0165] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0166] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.

[0167] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0168] Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

[0169] When they are present, the anionic surfactant(s) are preferably present in the composition in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, which may particularly range from 1% to 28% by weight, in particular from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 7% to 23% by weight, better still from 8% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition(A).

[0170] Amphoteric surfactants

[0171] Preferably, the composition(A)comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants.

[0172] The amphoteric surfactant(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are non-silicone surfactants.

[0173] The term “amphoteric surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups.

[0174] Mention may be made in particular, alone or as a mixture, of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines.

[0175] They may also be chosen from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0176] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (A), (B) and (C) below:

[0177] (A) Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X-

[0178] in which:

[0179] - Rarepresents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0180] - Rbrepresents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0181] - Rcrepresents a carboxymethyl group;

[0182] - M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and

[0183] - X-represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+and X-are absent;

[0184] (B) Ra’-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B’)

[0185] in which:

[0186] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’;

[0187] - B’ represents the group -(CH2)zY’, with z = 1 or 2;

[0188] - X’ represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;

[0189] - Y’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’;

[0190] - Z’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0191] - Ra’represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil, an alkyl group, notably a C17alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17group.

[0192] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0193] By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

[0194] (C) Ra’’-NHCH(Y’’)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re)

[0195] in which:

[0196] - Y’’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’’;

[0197] - Rdand Re, independently of each other, represent a C1to C4alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

[0198] - Z’’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0199] - Ra''represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra''-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil;

[0200] - n and n’ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0201] Among the amphoteric surfactants, use is preferably made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and the compounds of formula (C) such as the salts, notably the sodium salt, of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

[0202] When they are present, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are preferably present in the composition in a total amount which may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 12% by weight, notably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0203] Cationic surfactants

[0204] Preferably, the composition(A)comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

[0205] Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-O group.

[0206] They are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0207] The composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the following compounds, which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0208] - the compounds corresponding to the general formula (II) below: (II)

[0209] in which:

[0210] X-is an anion notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;

[0211] the groups R1to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R1to R4denoting a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0212] The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms notably such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0213] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), preference is given to tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, in which the alkyl group includes from approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, and also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts.

[0214] - the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): (III)

[0215] in which

[0216] R5represents an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,

[0217] R6represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

[0218] R7represents a C1-C4alkyl group,

[0219] R8represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4alkyl group,

[0220] X-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0221] Preferably, R5and R6denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7denotes a methyl group and R8denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0222] - quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (IV): (IV)

[0223] in which

[0224] R9denotes an alkyl radical including from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,

[0225] R10is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a)(R10a)(R11a)N-(CH2)3, with R9a, R10a, R11a,

[0226] R11, R12, R13and R14, which are identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical including from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0227] X-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates and (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0228] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V) below: (V)

[0229] in which:

[0230] R15is chosen from C1-C6alkyl groups and C1-C6hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

[0231] R16is chosen from the group R19-C(O)-; groups R20which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22hydrocarbon-based groups; a hydrogen atom;

[0232] R18is chosen from the group R21-C(O)-; groups R22which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6hydrocarbon-based groups; a hydrogen atom;

[0233] R17, R19and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21hydrocarbon-based groups;

[0234] r, s and t, which are identical or different, are integers having values from 2 to 6;

[0235] y is an integer having a value from 1 to 10;

[0236] x and z, which are identical or different, are integers having a value from 0 to 10;

[0237] X-is a simple or complex organic or inorganic anion;

[0238] with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R16denotes R20, and that when z is 0 then R18denotes R22.

[0239] Preferably, R15denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0240] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

[0241] When R16is a hydrocarbon-based group R20, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0242] When R18is a hydrocarbon-based group R22, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0243] Advantageously, R17, R19and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0244] Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, have a value of 0 or 1.

[0245] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0246] Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, have a value of 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0247] The anion X-is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate.

[0248] Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of formula (V) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (notably chloride or methyl sulfate), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0249] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof and comprising at least one C6-C30and preferably C8-C30hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0250] Preferably, the fatty amines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0251] Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0252] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0253] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30hydrocarbon-based chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0254] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0255] Among the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (VI) below:

[0256] RCONHR’’N(R’)2(VI)

[0257] in which:

[0258] - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29and preferably C7-C23alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29and preferably C7-C23alkenyl radical;

[0259] - R’’ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0260] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0261] The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, notably that sold by the company Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyldimethylamine, soyamidopropyldimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, minkamidopropyldimethylamine, oatamidopropyldimethylamine, sesamidopropyldimethylamine, tallamidopropyldimethylamine, olivamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0262] When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition (A) ranges preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0263] Nonionic surfactants

[0264] Preferably, the composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants.

[0265] Said nonionic surfactants may be chosen from:

[0266] - alcohols, α-diols and (C1-C20)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or else these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and notably from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular, oxyethylenated saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols including at least one C8to C40alkyl chain, comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and including one or two fatty chains;

[0267] - condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols;

[0268] - polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5 and in particular from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups;

[0269] - ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan (or oxyethylenated sorbitan esters), preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units;

[0270] - fatty acid esters of sucrose;

[0271] - polyoxyalkylenated, preferably polyoxyethylenated, fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils;

[0272] - N-(C6-C24alkyl)glucamine derivatives;

[0273] - amine oxides such as (C10-C14alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides;

[0274] - nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type.

[0275] The nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type may be represented by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v

[0276] in which:

[0277] - R1represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 6 to 24 carbon atoms and notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical of which the linear or branched alkyl radical includes 6 to 24 carbon atoms and notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0278] - R2represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0279] - G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0280] - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4,

[0281] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.

[0282] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.

[0283] 1,4 C8 / C16-alkyl(poly)glucosides, and notably decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.

[0284] The oxyethylenated sorbitan esters that may be used in the context of the invention notably comprise oxyethylenated derivatives of C8-C30fatty acid monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan, containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units. Oxyethylenated derivatives of C12-C24fatty acid monoesters and polyesters of sorbitan, containing from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units, are preferably used.

[0285] Mention may notably be made of sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 4 OE, for example sold under the name Tween 21, sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, for example sold under the name Tween 20, sorbitan monopalmitate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, for example sold under the name Tween 40, sorbitan monostearate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, for example sold under the name Tween 60, sorbitan monostearate oxyethylenated with 4 OE, for example sold under the name Tween 61, sorbitan tristearate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, for example sold under the name Tween 65, sorbitan monooleate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, for example sold under the name Tween 80, sorbitan monooleate oxyethylenated with 5 OE, for example sold under the name Tween 81, sorbitan trioleate oxyethylenated with 20 OE, for example sold under the name Tween 85.

[0286] In the present document, and in a manner well known per se, a “compound with X OE” denotes an oxyethylenated compound comprising X oxyethylene units per molecule.

[0287] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition(A)in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition(A).Fatty substances other than fatty acids

[0288] The composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention may also comprise one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids.

[0289] Preferably, the composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids.

[0290] The term “fatty substance” is understood to mean an organic compound which is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, and preferably of less than 1% by weight, more preferentially still of less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0291] The fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0292] Preferably, the fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.

[0293] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-O bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.

[0294] The fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. The term “liquid fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa) and the term “solid fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).

[0295] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).

[0296] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from C6to C16liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0297] It should be remembered that fatty alcohols, esters and acids exhibit more particularly at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30, carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0298] As regards the C6to C16liquid hydrocarbons, they may be linear, branched, and optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0299] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petrolatum (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0300] Mention may be made, as hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, of perhydrosqualene.

[0301] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0302] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by 3M.

[0303] The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.

[0304] As regards the liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, other than the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1to C26or branched C3to C26aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1to C26or branched C3to C26aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0305] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, one at least of the alcohol or the acid is branched.

[0306] Mention may be made, among the monoesters, of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate or 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0307] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0308] Use may also be made of esters of C4to C22di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1to C22alcohols and of esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2to C26di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0309] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0310] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6to C30, preferably C12to C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” is understood to mean oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds which possess several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than anionic polysaccharides described subsequently.

[0311] Mention may be made, as suitable sugars, for example, of sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and derivatives thereof, in particular alkylated derivatives thereof, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0312] Esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C6to C30, preferably C12to C22, fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0313] The esters can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0314] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof especially such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters.

[0315] More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters and in particular of mono- or dioleates, mono- or distearates, mono- or dibehenates, mono- or dioleopalmitates, mono- or dilinoleates, mono- or dilinolenates or mono- or dioleostearates of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0316] Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0317] Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and a monoalcohol.

[0318] According to one embodiment, the fatty substances other than fatty acids that are useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from liquid fatty alcohols.

[0319] Preferentially, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, in particular oleyl alcohol.

[0320] The solid fatty substances preferably exhibit a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.

[0321] The solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

[0322] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0323] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30, carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0324] The solid fatty alcohols capable of being used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24, even better still from 14 to 22, carbon atoms.

[0325] The solid fatty alcohols capable of being used can be chosen from, alone or as a mixture: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); or myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0326] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0327] The solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols capable of being used are preferably chosen from esters resulting from C9-C26carboxylic fatty acids and / or from C9-C26fatty alcohols.

[0328] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0329] Use may also be made of esters of C4-C22di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22alcohols and of esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0330] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0331] Preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols are chosen from C9-C26alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0332] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

[0333] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0334] Mention may particularly be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0335] Mention may additionally be made of microcrystalline C20to C60waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0336] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0337] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8to C32fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0338] The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.

[0339] A wax that may also be used is a C20to C40alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

[0340] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

[0341] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, such as paraffin wax, petrolatum wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, such as cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0342] Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0343] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:

[0344] R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, alkyl group derived from C14-C30fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the α position, or a hydroxyl group in the ω position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30fatty acid;

[0345] R2denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)ngroup, a (galactosyl)mgroup or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer varying from 1 to 4 and m is an integer varying from 1 to 8;

[0346] R3denotes a C15-C26hydrocarbon group which is saturated or unsaturated in the α position, it being possible for this group to be substituted by one or more C1-C14alkyl groups; it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3can also denote a C15-C26α-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30α-hydroxy acid.

[0347] The ceramides which are more particularly preferred are the compounds for whichR1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22fatty acids;R2denotes a hydrogen atom andR3denotes a saturated linear C15group.

[0348] Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for whichR1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30fatty acids;R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; andR3denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3group.

[0349] Use may also be made of the compounds for whichR1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22fatty acids;R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical andR3denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3group.

[0350] Mention may also be made, as compounds which are particularly preferred, of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.

[0351] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0352] Butters can also be used.

[0353] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “butter” (also known as “pasty fatty substance”) is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid / liquid change in state, comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a starting melting temperature above 25°C and an end melting temperature below 60°C.

[0354] Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin, such as those described inUllmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry(“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0355] Mention may more particularly be made of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca or bassia butter (Madhuca longifolia), mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya (kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.

[0356] Shea butter constitutes an example of a preferred butter.

[0357] In a known way, shea butter is extracted from the fruits (also known as “kernels” or “nuts”) of theButyrospermum parkiitree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% of fat, which is extracted and which is generally refined.

[0358] According to one preferred embodiment, the fatty substances other than fatty acids that are useful according to the invention are chosen from solid fatty substances, preferably from solid fatty alcohols.

[0359] The total content of the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids varies preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 25% by weight and better still from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0360] In one particular embodiment, the composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances other than fatty acids, the total content of the solid fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 8% to 25% by weight and better still from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0361] In another particular embodiment, the composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids, the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight and better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0362] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols and one or more liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from liquid fatty alcohols.Solvents

[0363] Preferably, the composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.

[0364] Preferably, the composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent.

[0365] Mention may be made for example, as organic solvents, of linear or branched C2to C4alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and their mixtures.

[0366] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from polyols, more preferentially glycerol, 1,3-propanediol and mixtures thereof.

[0367] The organic solvent(s) can be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0368] Moreover, preferably, the composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention is an aqueous composition. The composition(A)preferably comprises water in an amount of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).Additives in the composition (A)

[0369] The composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention can optionally comprise one or more additives, other than the compounds described above, and among which mention may be made of cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, agents for combating hair loss and / or for promoting hair growth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, inorganic or organic pigments, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preservatives.

[0370] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in a way such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition(s).

[0371] The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.Dyeing step a)

[0372] According to one embodiment, the composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention comprises at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0373] According to the invention, the term “chemical oxidizing agent” is understood to mean an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

[0374] Preferably, the composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention is mixed at the time of use with a composition(O)comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0375] According to this embodiment, the ready-to-use composition results from the mixing of at least two compositions:

[0376] a composition(A)comprising:

[0377] - at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof,

[0378] and

[0379] a composition(O)comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0380] According to one embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises a step of mixing the composition(A)employed in the process according to the invention with an oxidizing composition(O)comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before the application to the hair of the composition resulting from the mixing.

[0381] According to this embodiment, the process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying, to the keratin fibres, a composition resulting from the mixing, at the time of use, of at least two compositions:

[0382] a)a composition(A)comprising:

[0383] - at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof, and

[0384] b)an oxidizing composition(O)comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0385] More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for instance persulfates, perborates, peracids and precursors thereof and percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, and mixtures thereof. The oxidizing agent is preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide.

[0386] The oxidizing composition(O)is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.

[0387] It can also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above, these solvents more particularly representing, when they are present, from 1% to 40% by weight and preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.

[0388] The oxidizing composition(O)also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Mention may be made by way of example, among the acidifying agents, of inorganic or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0389] The oxidizing composition(O)may also comprise fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, surfactants and polymers.

[0390] Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when it is aqueous, is less than 7.

[0391] Preferably, the oxidizing composition(O)comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1% to 50%, more particularly between 0.5% and 20% and more preferentially still between 1% and 15%, by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.

[0392] The composition(A)may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres.

[0393] The composition(A)is left on the keratin fibres for a period ranging preferably from 5 minutes to 60 minutes, more preferentially from 10 minutes to 30 minutes, to produce the desired dyeing of the keratin fibres.Rinsing step b)

[0394] According to the dyeing process of the invention, the keratin fibres are rinsed, preferably with water, optionally after having been washed with a shampoo.

[0395] According to one embodiment, after the dyeing treatment, the keratin fibres are rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.

[0396] Step c) of treating the solution resulting from the rinsing

[0397] The dyeing process of the invention then comprises a step of treating the solution resulting from the rinsing of the keratin fibres before it is discharged as effluent.

[0398] When the keratin fibres have been rinsed with water, the solution resulting from the rinsing mainly comprises the water and the ingredients of the dyeing composition(A), especially dyes chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof.

[0399] When the keratin fibres have been washed beforehand with a shampoo, the ingredients of the shampoo are also found in the solution resulting from the rinsing of the keratin fibres.

[0400] The solution resulting from the rinsing of the keratin fibres is recovered and treated with at least one persulfate.Persulfates

[0401] The persulfates useful according to the invention may be chosen from sodium, potassium or ammonium persulfates and mixtures thereof.

[0402] The total content of the one or more persulfates ranges preferably from 0.001% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.004% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution resulting from the rinsing.Non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent

[0403] At least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent may also be used in step c).

[0404] Preferably, at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent is also used in step c).

[0405] Preferably, the non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, alkaline earth metal peroxides such as strontium or calcium peroxide, peroxygenated salts, for instance perborates, peracids and precursors thereof, percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium percarbonate, and peracids and precursors thereof; alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, solid hydrogen peroxide-generating chemical oxidizing agents such as urea peroxide, and polymer complexes that can release hydrogen peroxide, notably those comprising a heterocyclic vinyl monomer, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone / H2O2complexes, in particular in powder form; oxidases that produce hydrogen peroxide in the presence of a suitable substrate (for example glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or uric acid with uricase).

[0406] More preferentially, the one or more chemical oxidizing agents are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, strontium peroxide, calcium peroxide, percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium percarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0407] The total content of the non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent(s) varies preferably, when they are present, from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.004% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.05% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution resulting from the rinsing.Alkaline agent

[0408] At least one alkaline agent may also be used in step c).

[0409] Preferably, at least one alkaline agent is also used in step c).

[0410] The useful alkaline agents are as defined previously.

[0411] They are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as ammonium (hydrogen)carbonate, sodium (hydrogen)carbonates and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, sodium or potassium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

[0412] More preferentially, the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from sodium metasilicate, sodium silicate, monoethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

[0413] The total content of the alkaline agent(s), when they are present, ranges, preferably, from 0.001% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution resulting from the rinsing.

[0414] According to one particular embodiment, the total content of alkanolamine, preferably monoethanolamine, ranges preferably, when they are present, from 0.001% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution resulting from the rinsing.

[0415] According to one particular embodiment, the total content of ammonium hydroxide ranges preferably, when it is present, from 0.001% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution resulting from the rinsing.

[0416] According to one particular embodiment, the total content of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and mixtures thereof ranges preferably, when they are present, from 0.001% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution resulting from the rinsing.

[0417] Preferably, the persulfates are chosen from sodium, potassium or ammonium persulfates and mixtures thereof; the non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agents, when they are present, are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, strontium peroxide and calcium peroxide, the percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals such as sodium percarbonate and mixtures thereof; and the alkaline agents, when they are present, are chosen from sodium metasilicate, sodium silicate, monoethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

[0418] More preferentially, the persulfates are chosen from sodium persulfates; the non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agents, when they are present, are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, strontium peroxide, calcium peroxide, better still, hydrogen peroxide; and the alkaline agents, when they are present, are chosen from ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide and mixtures thereof, better still sodium hydroxide.

[0419] According to a first embodiment, step c) uses at least one persulfate and at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent.

[0420] According to a second embodiment, step c) uses at least one persulfate and at least one alkaline agent.

[0421] According to a third embodiment, step c) uses at least one persulfate, at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent and at least one alkaline agent.

[0422] The persulfate(s) may be added, alone or as a mixture, to the solution resulting from the rinsing.

[0423] According to one embodiment, the persulfate(s) may be added, alone or as a mixture, directly to the solution resulting from the rinsing.

[0424] According to another embodiment, the persulfate(s) may be added, alone or as a mixture, to the solution resulting from the rinsing from a composition(B).

[0425] According to this embodiment, the composition(B)comprises at least one persulfate, optionally at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent and optionally at least one alkaline agent, alone or as a mixture.

[0426] The composition(B)preferably comprises water in an amount of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition(B); better still, the water content ranges from 15% to 90% by weight, preferably from 25% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition(B).

[0427] The composition(B)may take the form of a solution, a powder mixture, a compact powder pellet or a pod composed of various compartments of liquids or solids.

[0428] According to another embodiment, the persulfate(s), the non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent(s), when they are present, and the alkaline agent(s), when they are present, may be added, alone or as a mixture, from two or three compositions - in the first case, one of the two compositions comprising two of the reagents, and in the last case each composition comprising one of the reagents.

[0429] The compositions may then be added to the solution resulting from the rinsing at the same time or separately, sequentially, simultaneously or as a mixture.

[0430] Preferably, the persulfate(s), the non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent(s), when they are present, and the alkaline agent(s), when they are present, are added, alone or as a mixture, directly to the solution resulting from the rinsing.

[0431] According to this embodiment, they may be added sequentially or simultaneously.

[0432] Preferably, the persulfate(s), the non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent(s), when they are present, and the alkaline agent(s), when they are present, alone or as a mixture, is (are) contacted with the solution resulting from the rinsing for a period ranging from 10 minutes to 90 minutes, more preferentially for a period ranging from 30 minutes to 60 minutes.

[0433] Advantageously, the solution resulting from the rinsing is contacted with the composition(B)comprising at least one persulfate, optionally at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent, and optionally at least one alkaline agent, alone or as a mixture, for a period ranging from 10 minutes to 90 minutes, more preferentially for a period ranging from 30 minutes to 60 minutes.

[0434] Advantageously, the contacting is implemented at a temperature of between 20°C and 40°C, preferably between 25°C and 30°C.

[0435] Advantageously, the contacting is implemented with magnetic or mechanical stirring.

[0436] Advantageously, the contacting is implemented at atmospheric pressure.

[0437] Preferably, the treatment of the solution resulting from the rinsing is carried out at atmospheric pressure, with magnetic stirring (using a magnetic bar, for example) for a treatment time ranging from 30 minutes to 60 minutes.

[0438] Preferably, when it is generated, the solution resulting from the rinsing is at a temperature of between 30 and 40°C, and is left at ambient temperature throughout the treatment time.

[0439] Advantageously, the solution resulting from the rinsing, to which at least one persulfate, optionally at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent, and optionally at least one alkaline agent, alone or as a mixture, have been added, is subjected to one or more sources of external activation.

[0440] Among the sources of external activations that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of activation by heat, by ultrasound, by microwave, by plasma, by electric current, by radiation, such as radiation in the visible, in the infrared or in the ultraviolet region, or else by bubbling of gas, preferably by bubbling of molecular oxygen or air.

[0441] Advantageously, the solution resulting from the rinsing is activated by radiation, in particular by UV radiation.

[0442] Advantageously, the radiation wavelengths are between 100 and 400 nm, preferably between 280 and 400 nm, more preferentially between 320 and 400 nm.

[0443] Advantageously, these modes of activation are combined; for example, the activation is carried out both by radiation, in particular by UV radiation, and by gas bubbling.

[0444] Process for treating a water comprising at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof, wherein the water is contacted with at least one persulfate.

[0445] Another subject of the invention is a process which uses a step of treating a water comprising at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof, with at least one persulfate.

[0446] According to one embodiment, the persulfate(s) may be added, alone or as a mixture, directly to the water comprising at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof.

[0447] Such a water is also referred to as effluent in the context of this invention.Persulfates

[0448] The persulfates are as described previously for stepc)of the dyeing process.

[0449] The total content of the persulfate(s) ranges preferably from 0.001% to 30% by weight, more preferentially from 0.004% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the effluent.Non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent

[0450] At least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent may also be used in the process.

[0451] Preferably, at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent is also used in the process.

[0452] The non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent(s), when they are present, are as described previously for stepc)of the dyeing process.

[0453] The total content of the non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent(s) varies, when they are present, preferably from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.004% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 5% and better still from 0.05% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the effluent composition.Alkaline agent

[0454] At least one alkaline agent may also be used in the process.

[0455] Preferably, at least one alkaline agent is also used in the process.

[0456] The alkaline agents, when they are present, are as described previously for stepc)of the dyeing process.

[0457] The total content of the alkaline agent(s) varies, when they are present, preferably from 0.001% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the effluent.

[0458] According to one particular embodiment, the total content of alkanolamine, preferably monoethanolamine, ranges, when they are present, preferably from 0.001% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the effluent.

[0459] According to one particular embodiment, the total content of ammonium hydroxide ranges, when it is present, preferably from 0.001% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the effluent.

[0460] According to one particular embodiment, the total content of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and mixtures thereof ranges, when they are present, preferably from 0.001% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the effluent.

[0461] According to a first embodiment, the process uses at least one persulfate and at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent, as described previously.

[0462] According to a second embodiment, the process uses at least one persulfate and at least one alkaline agent, as described previously.

[0463] According to a third embodiment, the process uses at least one persulfate, at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent and at least one alkaline agent, as described previously.

[0464] According to the first embodiment, the effluent is treated with at least one persulfate and at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent, as described previously.

[0465] According to the second embodiment, the effluent is treated with at least one persulfate and at least one alkaline agent, as described previously.

[0466] According to the third embodiment, the effluent is treated with at least one persulfate, at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent and at least one alkaline agent, as described previously.

[0467] The persulfate(s) may be added, alone or as a mixture, to the effluent.

[0468] According to one embodiment, the persulfate(s) may be added, alone or as a mixture, directly to the effluent.

[0469] According to another embodiment, the persulfate(s) may be added, alone or as a mixture, from a composition(B)as described previously.

[0470] According to another embodiment, the persulfate(s), the non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent(s), when they are present, and the alkaline agent(s), when they are present, may be added, alone or as a mixture, from two or three compositions - in the first case, one of the two compositions comprising two of the reagents, and in the last case each composition comprising one of the reagents.

[0471] The compositions may then be added to the effluent at the same time or separately, sequentially, simultaneously or as a mixture.

[0472] Preferably, the persulfate(s), the non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent(s), when they are present, and the alkaline agent(s), when they are present, are added, alone or as a mixture, directly to the effluent.

[0473] According to this embodiment, they may be added sequentially or simultaneously.

[0474] Preferably, the persulfate(s), the non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent(s), when they are present and the alkaline agent(s), when they are present, alone or as a mixture, is (are) contacted with the effluent for a period ranging from 2 minutes to 120 minutes, more preferentially for a time ranging from 5 minutes to 90 minutes and better still for a time ranging from 20 to 60 min.

[0475] Advantageously, the effluent is contacted with the composition(B)comprising at least one persulfate, optionally at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent and optionally at least one alkaline agent, alone or as a mixture, for a period ranging from 2 minutes to 120 minutes, more preferentially for a time ranging from 5 minutes to 90 minutes and better still for a time ranging from 20 to 60 min.

[0476] Advantageously, the contacting is implemented at a temperature of between 20°C and 40°C, preferably between 25°C and 30°C.

[0477] Advantageously, the contacting is implemented with magnetic or mechanical stirring.

[0478] Advantageously, the contacting is implemented at atmospheric pressure.

[0479] Preferably, the treatment of the effluent takes place at atmospheric pressure, with magnetic stirring (using a magnetic bar, for example) for a treatment time ranging from 30 minutes to 60 minutes.

[0480] Preferably, the effluent is at a temperature between 30 and 40°C, and is left at ambient temperature throughout the treatment time.

[0481] Advantageously, the composition to be treated, corresponding to the effluent to which at least one persulfate, optionally at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent and optionally at least one alkaline agent, alone or as a mixture, have been added, is subjected to one or more sources of external activation as described previously.

[0482] Another subject of the present invention relates to the use of at least one persulfate, optionally at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent and optionally at least one alkaline agent as defined above for the degradation of dyes, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof present in an aqueous solution comprising at least 80% of water, preferably at least 90% of water, more preferentially at least 95% of water.

[0483] According to a first embodiment, this other subject relates to the use of at least one persulfate and at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent as defined above for the degradation of dyes, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof present in an aqueous solution comprising at least 80% of water, preferably at least 90% of water, more preferentially at least 95% of water.

[0484] According to a second embodiment, this other subject relates to the use of at least one persulfate and at least one alkaline agent as defined above for the degradation of dyes, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof present in an aqueous solution comprising at least 80% of water, preferably at least 90% of water, more preferentially at least 95% of water.

[0485] According to a third embodiment, this other subject relates to the use of at least one persulfate, at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent and at least one alkaline agent as defined above for the degradation of dyes, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof present in an aqueous solution comprising at least 80% of water, preferably at least 90% of water, more preferentially at least 95% of water.Waters analysis - Characterization

[0486] After having been contacted with at least one persulfate, optionally at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent and, optionally, at least one alkaline agent, the solutions resulting from the rinsing of the keratin fibres in the dyeing process or the waters comprising at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof are analysed.

[0487] The waters treated by the processes as described above are analysed according to the following analysis methods and protocols.

[0488] The degradation of the dyes may be monitored by ultra-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC).

[0489] A liquid chromatography method was used with the following equipment:

[0490] • Waters liquid chromatograph class H, 1 or equivalent.

[0491] • Waters ACQUITY UPLC CSH column. Two types of detection are used to monitor the dyes and their degradation products:

[0492] • UV-visible spectroscopy with a diode array detector, this being a detector that allows the measurement of the absorbance of a sample at various wavelengths. This detector has the ability to scan a wide spectrum of wavelengths simultaneously, therefore enabling the mapping of the compounds present.

[0493] • Mass spectrometry, which was used to go further in identifying the compounds present.

[0494] It was thus possible to monitor the degradation of the dyes both qualitatively and quantitatively.

[0495] The colour of the waters can be evaluated by colorimetry.

[0496] It has thus been shown that the process according to the invention makes it possible to efficiently degrade the dyes or the reaction products thereof, either contained in the rinsing solutions resulting from the process for dyeing keratin fibres, or contained in the effluents.Examples

[0497] In the examples that follow, all the amounts are given as mass percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise mentioned).

[0498] Composition(A)Dyeing composition

[0499] The dyeing composition comprises the following oxidation dyes: TOLUENE-2,5-DIAMINE, 2.5%; 2,4-DIAMINOPHENOXYETHANOL HCL, 0.70%; RESORCINOL, 0.77%; m-AMINOPHENOL, 0.45%. The composition further comprises, in particular, alkaline agents, fatty substances, a sequestrant and surfactants.Oxidizing composition

[0500] The oxidizing composition (O) comprises hydrogen peroxide, in particular.

[0501] At the time of use, the dyeing composition is mixed with 1.5 times its weight of oxidizer (O). The mixture is then applied to a lock of pigmented hair (1 g, Caucasian type, tone depth 5) at a rate of 1.2 g of mixture per g of hair.

[0502] After a leave-on time of 35 min on a plate thermostatically regulated at 27°C, the hair is rinsed with water for 1 minute, washed with a standard shampoo for 1 minute in a beaker containing 250 mL of water at 35°C, and then again rinsed with water.

[0503] The solutions resulting from the rinsing of the hair are collected.

[0504] Sodium persulfate is added to the solution resulting from the rinsing in contents of 0.5%(P1)by weight of the total weight of the solution resulting from the rinsing.

[0505] Ammonium persulfate(P2)or potassium persulfate(P3)are added to the solution resulting from the rinsing in contents of 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the solution resulting from the rinsing.

[0506] Moreover, sodium persulfate and sodium hydroxide are added simultaneously to the solution derived from the rinsing in respective contents of 0.5% and 0.05%(P1A)by weight of the total weight of the solution resulting from the rinsing.

[0507] Moreover, sodium persulfate and hydrogen peroxide are added simultaneously to the solution derived from the rinsing in respective contents of 0.5% and 0.25%(P1H)by weight of the total weight of the solution resulting from the rinsing.

[0508] The treatment consists of the addition of the active agents indicated to the solution resulting from the rinsing, and maintenance of magnetic stirring throughout the duration of the treatment (at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure). Once the duration has elapsed, the stirring is stopped and the sample is immediately stabilized by addition of acid until the pH is 5.

[0509] After treatment, the degradation of the oxidation dyes detected in the rinsing water, and also the colour of the water, are then evaluated.

[0510] After treatment for 1 h, the following results are obtained:

[0511] Table 1: Analytical evaluation of oxidation dye degradationPrecursors% degradation after 1 h of treatmentP1P2P3P1AP1HResorcinol929393>9452m-Aminophenol>69>61>75>89>17Toluene-2,5-diamine>99.7>99.3>99.4>98>99.3

[0512] * Percentage degradation of the dye (the % values are the surface area ratios resulting from UPLC analyses: ratio between the surface area value of the integrated peak of the dye after treatment and the equivalent value before treatment). The process according to the invention enables effective degradation of the dyes still present after the treatment.

[0513] To evaluate the colours, the samples were photographed under standardized conditions: in a BYK-brand light box (D65 standardized light). The colour of the effluent is expressed on the basis of this photo in the CIE 1976 L*a*b* colour space. In this system, L* represents the lightness.

[0514] The higher the value of L*, the lighter the colour of the solution resulting from the rinsing.

[0515] The L* value of each effluent is compared with the reference before treatment L*0.

[0516] Table 2: Evaluation of the decolourizing of the solution resulting from the rinsing following the various treatments by colorimetryUntreatedTreated with P1Treated with P2Treated with P3Treated with P1ATreated with P1HL*0151515151515L*(after 1 h)152627256447Decolourization(ΔL= L*- L*0, after 1 h)01112104932

[0517] These results show that the colour of the treated solution resulting from the rinsing is lighter than the untreated solution, which indicates the degradation of the dyes with the process according to the invention.

[0518] The process according to the invention thus makes it possible to treat the solutions resulting from the rinsing in hair dyeing, in such a way as to very significantly degrade any residual oxidation bases and couplers and also reaction products thereof contained in the solutions resulting from the rinsing of the keratin fibres.

Claims

Process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, comprising the following steps:a) applying to the keratin fibres a composition(A)comprising at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof;b) rinsing the keratin fibres, preferably with water;c) treating the solution resulting from the rinsing of the keratin fibres with at least one persulfate.Process according to the preceding claim, wherein the one or more persulfates are chosen from sodium, potassium or ammonium persulfates and mixtures thereof.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of the one or more persulfates ranges from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.004% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% and better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution resulting from the rinsing.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, employing in step c) at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent; the one or more non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agents are preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, strontium peroxide, calcium peroxide, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal percarbonates such as sodium percarbonates and mixtures thereof.Process according to the preceding claim, wherein the total content of the one or more non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agents ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.004% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 5% and better still from 0.05% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution resulting from the rinsing.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, employing in step c) at least one alkaline agent; the one or more alkaline agents are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as ammonium (hydrogen)carbonate, sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, sodium or potassium hydroxides and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium metasilicate, sodium silicate, monoethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.Process according to the preceding claim, wherein the total content of the one or more alkaline agents ranges from 0.001% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution resulting from the rinsing.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the solution resulting from the rinsing of the keratin fibres is subjected to an activation source chosen from heat, ultrasound, microwaves, plasma, electrical current, radiation, such as radiation in the visible, in the infrared or in the ultraviolet region, or else gas bubbling, preferably bubbling of molecular oxygen or of air, preferably radiation, preferably UV radiation; preferably, the wavelengths of the radiation are between 100 and 400 nm, preferably between 280 and 400 nm, more preferentially between 320 and 400 nm.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the solution resulting from the rinsing of the keratin fibres is contacted with at least one persulfate, at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent and at least one alkaline agent for a period ranging from 2 minutes to 120 minutes, more preferentially for a period ranging from 5 minutes to 90 minutes, even better still for a period ranging from 20 to 60 min.Process for treating a water comprising at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof, wherein this water is contacted with at least one persulfate, optionally at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent and optionally at least one alkaline agent.Use of at least one persulfate, optionally at least one non-persulfate chemical oxidizing agent and optionally at least one alkaline agent as defined in any one of the preceding claims for the degradation of dyes, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, mixtures thereof and reaction products thereof present in an aqueous solution comprising at least 80% of water, preferably at least 90% of water, more preferentially at least 95% of water.

Citation Information

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