Use of polymers resulting from muconic or sorbic acid, method for the treatment of keratin materials, polymer and composition
Homopolymers and copolymers derived from muconic or sorbic acid, polymerized via group transfer polymerization, offer biobased and degradable thickeners with excellent wear properties and stability, addressing the need for environmentally friendly cosmetic formulations.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2025-11-17
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-26
AI Technical Summary
There is a need for biobased and degradable thickeners for cosmetic formulas that can achieve high viscosities at low concentrations, provide good wear properties, and incorporate cosmetic active agents while being resistant to external attacks and maintaining stability.
The use of homopolymers and copolymers derived from muconic or sorbic acid, which can be rapidly and efficiently polymerized through group transfer polymerization, allowing for the development of compositions that are adhesive, non-tacky, and resistant to external attacks, and can incorporate cosmetic active agents.
The compositions provide excellent wear properties, resistance to external attacks, and maintain stability, while allowing for easy incorporation of cosmetic active agents, thus addressing the need for biobased and degradable thickeners with improved carbon footprint and rheological properties.
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Figure EP2025083309_26032026_PF_FP_ABST
Abstract
Description
Title: USE OF POLYMERS RESULTING FROM MUCONIC OR SORBIC ACID, METHOD FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATIN MATERIALS, POLYMER AND COMPOSITION
[0001] The present invention relates to novel homopolymers or copolymers resulting from muconic or sorbic acid, to their process of preparation, to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one homopolymer or copolymer resulting from muconic or sorbic acid, to a method for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials, such as the skin or head hair, employing the application, to said materials, of at least one homopolymer or copolymer resulting from muconic or sorbic acid or of a composition comprising at least one homopolymer or copolymer resulting from muconic or sorbic acid, to a process for the preparation of diacids from the homopolymers or copolymers resulting from oxidative degradation, in particular by ozonolysis, and to new diacid compounds resulting from said degradation.
[0002] The texture of a cosmetic formula plays an important role in the perception of its performance during the manual take-up of the product, its application and after drying. In this context, it is important to have available aqueous thickeners which have good rheological and sensory attributes before, during and after application to keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials, such as the skin or head hair.
[0003] Crosslinked poly(meth)acrylates or poly(meth)acrylamides are often used to thicken cosmetic formulas because they can generate thick formulas at low concentrations (< 2% by weight), they are fairly easy to apply and generally have little, indeed even no, negative sensory impact on the deposit after drying on keratin materials, in particular the skin. Crosslinked poly(methyl)acrylates or poly(meth)acrylamides are often used to thicken cosmetic formulas because they can generate thick formulas at low concentrations (< 2% by weight), they are fairly easy to apply and generally have little, indeed even no, negative sensory impact on the deposit after drying on keratin materials, in particular the skin.
[0004] In addition, there exist few biobased acrylate monomers and very few processes which make it possible to degrade polyacrylates after use.
[0005] Nowadays, however, environmental concerns are making it essential to promote the use of materials which are biobased and / or degradable after use. It is desirable to make available other thickeners, if possible aqueous (or water- soluble), if possible biobased, for cosmetic formulas, in particular skin careformulas, or hair formulas, which make it possible to achieve high viscosities at low concentration (< 2% by weight).
[0006] In this context, it is important to develop processes for the preparation of cosmetic products and / or cosmetic ingredients with an improved carbon footprint which are capable of reducing the generation of carbon dioxide throughout the life of the product and / or which have low energy and water costs and / or which use greener solvents and / or which have fewer synthesis stages and / or which have good atom economy. In addition, cosmetic products often require the use of a film-forming polymer to obtain a deposit of the product on keratin materials which exhibits good cosmetic properties. It is especially necessary for the filmforming deposit to exhibit a good wear property, especially for the deposit not to transfer during contact with the fingers or clothing, and also a good wear property on contact with water, in particular rain or during showering, or also forthe deposit to be insensitive to perspiration or sebum, as well as to fats of foods, in particular dietary fatty substances, which are in particular liquid at ambient temperature, such as oils. It is also advantageous, for reasons in particular of molecular economy of formulation ingredient, to have, besides rheological properties, cosmetic properties, in particular in care, such as, for example, a tightening effect on keratin materials, in particular the skin.
[0007] Muconate esters are derived from muconic acid (MA), called 2,4- hexadienedioic acid, which is both a conjugated diene and a dicarboxylic acid.
[0008] Several synthetic pathways, in particular biobased, starting from MA have been developed since 1980 (see, for example, Biotechnological Production of Muconic Acid: Current Status and Future Prospects, Biotechnol. Adv., 2014, 32 (3), 615- 622; Muconic Acid Isomers as Platform Chemicals and Monomers in the Biobased Economy, Green Chem., 2020, 22 (5), 1517-1541), and numerous sources of production are currently envisaged, in particular biotechnologies by fermentation (bacteria, yeasts) of lignin or of glucose derivatives (Engineering Glucose Metabolism for Enhanced Muconic Acid Production in Pseudomonas putida KT2440, Metab. Eng., 2020, 59, 64-75; J. Bioconversion of Lignin-Derived Feedstocks to Muconic Acid by Whole-Cell Biocatalysis, ACS Food Sci. Technol.,2021 , 1 (3), 382-387; Muconic Acid Production from Glucose and Xylose in Pseudomonas putida via Evolution and Metabolic Engineering, Nat. Commun.,2022, 13 (1), 4925; Systems Metabolic Engineering Upgrades Corynebacterium glutamicum to High-Efficiency Cis.Cis-Muconic Acid Production from Lignin- Based Aromatics, Metab. Eng., 2023, 75, 153-169; Comparison of Wild-Type KT2440 and Genome-Reduced EM42 Pseudomonas putida Strains forMuconate Production from Aromatic Compounds and Glucose, Metab. Eng., 2024, 81, 88-99).
[0009] Polymers resulting from stepwise and chain growth modes of polymerizations comprising unsaturations (C=C double bonds) in the backbone make possible other post-polymerization modifications, as means of adjusting the properties of the polymuconates.
[0010] Matsumoto et al. have developed the 1 ,4-topochemical polymerization of dialkyl muconates by photoirradiation of the monomers in their crystalline state, forming stereoregular polymer chains (S. Stereospecific Polymerization of Diethyl (Z,Z)-Hexa-2,4-Dienedioate in the Crystalline State, J. Chem. Soc. Chem. Commun., 1994, No. 11 , 1389; Stereospecific Polymerization of Dialkyl Muconates through Free Radical Polymerization: Isotropic Polymerization and Topochemical Polymerization, Macromolecules, 1996, 29 (1), 423-432; Crystal-Lattice Controlled Photopolymerization ofDi(benzylammonium) (Z,Z)-Muconates, J. Am. Chem. Soc. 1999, 121 (48), 11122-11129; Topochemical Polymerization of 1 ,3-Diene Monomers and Features of Polymer Crystals as Organic Intercalation Materials, Macromol. Rapid Commun., 2001 , 22 (15), 1195; Reaction Principles and Crystal Structure Design for the Topochemical Polymerization of 1 ,3-Dienes, Angew. Chem. 2002, 114 (14), 2612-2615).
[0011] More recently, Junkers et al. have reported the radical solution polymerization of dialkyl muconates, forming polymers of high molecular weight (> 100 000 g.mol-1) (Muconic Acid Esters as Bio-Based Acrylate Mimics, Polym. Chem. 2019, 70 (40), 5555-5563).
[0012] The monomers can also be polymerized in a controlled way by the process of radical polymerization by reversible addition-fragmentation chain transfer (RAFT). However, in order to achieve a high conversion of the monomers, the radical polymerization reactions are very slow and restrictive, i.e. between 24 hours and 48 hours at 120°C (Muconic Acid Esters as Bio-Based Acrylate Mimics, Polym. Chem. 2019, 70 (40), 5555-5563).
[0013] Alkyl sorbates exhibit structural similarities to alkyl muconates as polar conjugated dienes.
[0014] It is known to synthesize alkyl sorbates by four main routes:- either a) by living anionic polymerization (LAP) (Microstructure of Poly(Methyl Sorbate), Eur. Polym. J., 1985, 27 (1), 71-74);- or b) by anionic coordinated polymerization (Highly Threo Diastereoselective Anionic Polymerization of (E,E)-Methyl Sorbate Catalyzed by a Bulky Organoaluminum Lewis Acid, Macromolecules, 2001 , 34 (19), 6548-6550; N- Heterocyclic Carbene Initiated Anionic Polymerization of (E.E)-Methyl Sorbateand Subsequent Ring-Closing to Cyclic Poly(Alkyl Sorbate), J. Am. Chem. Soc., 2017);- or c) by Lewis-based electron pair polymerization (LPP) (Lewis Pair Catalyzed Regioselective Polymerization of (E,E)-Alkyl Sorbates for the Synthesis of (AB)nSequenced Polymers, Angew. Chem. Int. Ed., 2021 , 60 (45), 24306-24311. Boron-Based Lewis Pairs Catalyzed Living, Regioselective, and Topology- Controlled Polymerization of (E,E)-Alkyl Sorbates, Macromol. Rapid Commun., 2022, 43 (16), 2200088);- or d) by group transfer polymerization (GTP) (Organocatalyzed Group Transfer Polymerization of Alkyl Sorbate: Polymer Synthesis, Postpolymerization Modification, and Thermal Properties, Macromolecules, 2021 , 54 (19), 9039- 9052; Hydrosilylation-Promoted Group Transfer Polymerization of Ethyl Sorbate: A Controlled / Living System Applied to the Synthesis of an a-End Functionalized Polymer and a Triblock Copolymer with a (Meth)Acrylate Polymer, 2023).
[0015] This last method contrasts with numerous "controlled / living" polymerization methods, in so far as the GTP polymerization can be carried out at ambient temperature and does not necessarily use a sulfur-containing control agent or a metal catalyst or a halogenated initiator. This is particularly important for specific applications, in particular cosmetic applications, where the presence of such compounds, even at low concentrations, can be detrimental and require additional purification stages.
[0016] The GTP method was developed to produce, in particular industrially, methacrylate-based copolymers used as dispersants for pigments (see, for example, US 2023 / 0174701 A1), as emulsifiers (US 2023 / 0193138 A1) or as cosmetic stabilizing agents (EP 4 151 279 A1).
[0017] With the emergence of organic catalysts for polymerization, the GTP pathway has experienced advances over the last fifteen years, in particular a wider range of polymerizable monomers (Group Transfer Polymerization of Biobased Monomers, Eur. Polym. J., 2013, 49 (4), 761-767; Group-Transfer Polymerization of Various Crotonates Using Organic Acid Catalysts, Macromolecules, 2019, 52 (11), 4052-4058; Precision Synthesis for Well- Defined Linear and / or Architecturally Controlled Thermoresponsive Poly( / V- Substituted Acrylamide)s, Polym. Chem. 2022, 13 (10), 1293-1319; Organocatalytic Group Transfer Polymerization of / V, / V-Diethylsorbamide Leading to trans- 1 ,4-Addition Polymer: Controlled / Living Nature Applied to the One-Pot Synthesis of Block Copolymer with Poly( / V, / V-Dimethylacrylamide), Macromolecules, 2023, 56 (22), 9196-9206) and a variety of readily available block copolymers (Precision Synthesis for Well-Defined Linear and / or Architecturally Controlled Thermoresponsive Poly( / V-Substituted Acrylamide)s,Polym. Chem. 2022, 13 (10), 1293-1319; No Matter the Order of Monomer Addition for the Synthesis of Well-Defined Block Copolymers by Sequential Group Transfer Polymerization using N-Heterocyclic Carbenes as Catalysts, Polym. Chem. 2011 , 2 (8), 1706; Amphiphilic Polymer Conetworks Based on Interconnected Hydrophobic Star Block Copolymers: Synthesis and Characterization, Macromol. Symp., 2017, 372 (1), 69-86; Tricomponent Thermoresponsive Polymers Based on an Amine-Containing Monomer with Tuneable Hydrophobicity: Effect of Composition, Eur. Polym. J., 2020, 130, 109655; Tuning the Gelation of Thermoresponsive Gels Based on Triblock Terpolymers, Macromolecules, 2021 , 54 (4), 1943-1960; Block Copolymer Synthesis by a Sequential Addition Strategy from the Organocatalytic Group Transfer Polymerization of Methyl Methacrylate to the Ring-Opening Polymerization of Lactide, Macromol. Rapid Commun., 2022, 2200395; Stiti, A., Cenacchi Pereira, A. M., Lecommandoux, S. and Taton, D., Group-Transfer Polymerization-Induced Self-Assembly (GTPISA) in Non-Polar Media: An Organocatalyzed Route to Block Copolymer Nanoparticles at Room Temperature, Angew. Chem. Int. Ed., 2023, 62 (34)).
[0018] To our knowledge, just one report briefly describes the GTP synthesis of trans, trans-diethyl muconate. The polymerization carried out in THF was not, however, controlled, which made it possible to obtain a polymer of low molecular weight and of high dispersity (Group Transfer Polymerization with Polyunsaturated Esters and Silyl Polyenolates, J. Am. Chem. Soc. 1988, 110 (17), 5841-5853).
[0019] Thus, a rapid (less than 24 hours) and efficient controlled polymerization of muconate esters with a good yield is lacking to date.
[0020] In the present invention, it is apparent that the polymerization takes place very rapidly (in a few minutes) and in a controlled way. In addition, the resulting poly(muconate esters) represent a rare example of vinyl polymers which can be both biobased and subject to easy post-polymerization modification reactions.
[0021] It is also known to use crosslinked polymers of (meth)acrylic, maleic or fumaric acid (unit 1) and of sorbic or muconic acid (unit 2) of particular molecular weight as detergents and water absorbers in drilling fluids or in layers (see, for example, JP2002012628). The latter polymers were crosslinked via the presence of an unsaturation originating from sorbic or muconic acid.
[0022] It is also advantageous to make available an easy-to-use method employing a cosmetic composition which can additionally incorporate one or more cosmetic active agents, in particular optionally comprising one or more UV screeningagents, and / or one or more colorants, such as pigments and / or direct dyes. It would additionally be advantageous for the cosmetic composition to be stable for storage, in particular for several months, at a temperature such as 20°C.
[0023] Another aim of the present invention is to make available a composition for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human skin and more preferentially the skin of the face, which is adhesive and if possible non-tacky, which exhibits a good wear property with respect to external attacks, and over time, which does not bleed if said composition contains at least one colorant, and which is resistant to sweat and sebum and insensitive to oils, such as dietary oils. Furthermore, the composition can comprise cosmetic active agents, such as those for obtaining an additional tightening effect on the skin, for caring for the body, the face and head hair, for protecting against ultraviolet (UV) rays, or for making up the face, the lips, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and head hair. Said composition can be intended in particular for caring, in particular for its tightening effects on the skin, and / or for making up, in particular for making up the lips.
[0024] More particularly, it is advantageous to make available a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, such as head hair, which is adhesive and, if possible, non-tacky, which exhibits a good wear property with respect to external attacks, such as water, and overtime, and which does not bleed. Such a composition, in particular targeted at the hair, might additionally comprise one or more cosmetic active agents, such as colorants, UV screening agents and active agents for caring for keratin fibres, without this being able to detrimentally affect the stability of the formula and / or the properties of said cosmetic active agents.
[0025] It is additionally desired to obtain polymeric materials which, once applied to the substrate, have flexible, elastic mechanical strength properties, and which can conform to the surface and which, once applied and whether the substrate is stretched or in motion, do not visually streak to give a “peel” look. It would be advantageous if said materials could be sufficiently closely connected to the substrate for them not to be easily detached from the substrate.
[0026] These technical problems have been solved by the cosmetic use a) of one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or of one or more copolymer(s) a2) or of a composition containing it / them, for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials, especially a) human keratin fibres, such as head hair, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, or ) human skin, in particular as tightening agent, and / or thickener for the composition, said homopolymer(s) a1) and / orcopolymer(s) a2) comprising i) several repeat units chosen from the following units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) as defined below or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates:
[0027] [Chem. 1]unit (A) in which polymeric units (A):• Ri represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, or a -C(O)-OR'4group;• R2and R3, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group; preferably, R2and R3cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; or elseR2and R3together form a bond; or elseR2and R3together form a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, heterocycle comprising at least one oxygen atom and comprising from 3 to 6 ring members, preferably having 3 ring members, such as epoxy;• R4and R'4, which are identical or different, represent: i) a hydrogen atom, ii) a cationic counterion M+, preferably an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or ammonium cation, iii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, or aromatic or nonaromatic, cyclic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 140 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms; preferably, said hydrocarbon group is saturated linear or branched acyclic, or cyclic; said hydrocarbon group additionally being: o optionally substituted by one or more (di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino groups; and / or o optionally interrupted by one or more a') heteroatoms, such as O, S, N(Ra), and Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O)rwith r having the value 1 , 2 or 3,carbonyl, c') or the combinations of a') with b'), such as -C(O)-O-, -O- C(O)-, amide -C(O)-N(Ra)-, N(Ra)-C(O)-, urethane -N(Ra)-C(O)-O- or - O-C(O)-N(Ra)-, urea -N(Ra)-(CO)-N(Rb)-, carbonate -O-C(O)-O-, -[O- Si(Rb)(Rc)]p- or -[(CRa2)q-O]p- with q an integer of between 1 and 4; o with p of between 1 and 200, in which Ra, Rb and Rc, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group; in particular, Rarepresents a hydrogen atom and Rb and Rc, being as defined above, preferably represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl; and optionally (A1) to (A15):[Table 1](A3) (A4)in which formulae (A1) to (A15) R1 , R2, R3 and R4 are as defined for Ri, R2, R3and R4respectively of the units (A), it additionally being possiblefor R2 and R3 together to form a bond or else it being possible for R2 and R3 together to form a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, heterocycle comprising at least one oxygen atom and comprising from 3 to 6 ring members, preferably having 3 ring members, such as epoxy;X represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an amino group N(Ra) with Rarepresenting a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group;RET, which are identical or different, represent a group resulting from the crosslinking of at least one reactive group of at least one unit (A), preferably of at least one hydroxyl group and / or of at least one -C(O)-OR'4and / or -C(O)-OR4group of a unit (A), with at least one crosslinking agent chosen in particular from the crosslinking agents b-1) to b-8), preferentially chosen from (S'), (E), (F), (G), (H), (I), (J), (K), (L), (M), (N), (O) and (P) as defined below, more preferentially chosen from (S'), (E), (F), (K) and (O); and'T' represents the point of attachment of the group to the remainder of the molecule; it being understood that:- when R2 (and / or R3) represent(s) a hydroxyl radical and R4represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion M+(and / or R'4), then R2and the -C(O)- OR4group (and / or R3 and the -C(O)-OR'4group) can together form a 5- membered or 6-membered heterocycle;- when the R4and / or R'4radical represents a cationic counterion, then the oxygen atom of the -OR4and / or -OR'4group will be in its anionic form -O-; and- the R1, respectively R2, R3, R4, R'4, radicals of the different units (A), and R1 , R2, R3 and R4 of the different units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and / or (A15) can be identical or different.
[0028] More particularly, the subject-matter of the invention relates to the use of at least one, preferably cosmetic, composition which contains a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) or a composition containing it / them, said polymers comprising i) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above, and also their optical and geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) one or more unit(s) chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally b) one or more crosslinking agent(s), for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials, such as head hair, the eyelashes, theeyebrows or the skin, preferably for thickening cosmetic compositions in particular intended to dye keratin fibres and / or for the shaping of keratin fibres, such as head hair, or for making up the skin and / or for carrying out the care of the skin and / or for forming a film at the surface of the keratin material(s), in particular persistent towards external attacks, such as water or fatty substances, such as oil and / or sebum.
[0029] According to a particular embodiment, the a) homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, in particular non-crosslinked or weakly crosslinked (less than 10 mol% of RET units), exhibit a tightening nature.
[0030] Another subject-matter of the invention is a method for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials, preferably a) human keratin fibres, such as head hair, the eyelashes or the eyebrows, or [3) human skin, comprising the application, to said materials, of one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) or a composition containing it / them, said polymers comprising i) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally the simultaneous or sequential application of b) one or more crosslinking agent(s).
[0031] According to a particular embodiment, the treatment method comprises the application, to said materials, of one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A), which are or are not crosslinked, as defined above and optionally b) one or more crosslinking agent(s) as defined above. The application to said materials of one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A), which are or are not crosslinked, as defined above can be carried out together with b) one or more crosslinking agent(s) as defined above, or else the crosslinking agent(s) is (are) applied beforehand to the keratin materials, followed by the application to said materials of one or morehomopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A), which are or are not crosslinked. According to another alternative form, the application to said materials of one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the crosslinked or non-crosslinked units (A) as defined above is followed by the application of one or more crosslinking agent(s).
[0032] Preferentially, the application to said keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials, is carried out with a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, which contains a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2), said polymers comprising several repeat units chosen from i) the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and b) optionally one or more crosslinking agent(s).
[0033] Another subject-matter of the invention is a composition CP, in particular a cosmetic composition, which contains a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2), said polymers comprising several repeat units chosen from i) the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometric isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally iii) one or more units resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) chosen from i) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylate, and / or ii) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci- C4)(alkyl)acrylamide, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylamide, and optionally b) one or more crosslinking agent(s), it being understood that, when the composition CP does not comprise a crosslinking agent and / or comprises neither a unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) nor a unit resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) chosen from i) (Ci- C22) (cyclo) alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl(meth)acrlate, and / or ii) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylamide, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylamide, and when, in the units (A), the R2and R3radicals together form a bond, then the composition comprises at least one compound chosen from c) fatty substances, which are preferably liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, d) dyes, e) pigments, preferably pigments, f) one or more active agents for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, g) UV (A) and / or (B) screening agents, or h) their c) to g) mixtures, preferentially chosen from c), d) and e), more preferentially c) or e).
[0034] In particular, the composition CP, especially cosmetic composition, of the invention contains a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2), said polymers comprising i) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally b) one or more crosslinking agent(s), and c) one or more fatty substances, which are preferably liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, in particular chosen from volatile oils, and optionally one or more organic solvent(s).
[0035] According to one embodiment, the composition CP of the invention, preferably cosmetic composition, additionally comprises f) one or more cosmetic active agent(s) chosen from d) dyes or e) pigments, preferably pigments, f) active agents for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, g) UV (A) and / or (B) screening agents, or h) mixtures of d) to g), preferably chosen from d) dyes and e) pigments, better still pigments e).
[0036] Another subject-matter of the invention is a polymer chosen from:1) random, block or gradient copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) several identical repeat units chosen from the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and / or optionally iii) one or more units resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) chosen from iii1) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylate, and / or iii2) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylamide, preferably(C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylamide, it being understood that said copolymers comprise ii) and / or iii);2) random, block or gradient copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) at least two different repeat units chosen from the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally iii) one or more units resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) chosen from iii1) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate, preferably (C5- C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylate, and / or iii2) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci- C4)(alkyl)acrylamide, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylamide;3) homopolymers a1) comprising units (A) for which Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group and R2and R3together form a bond and R4and R'4, which are preferably identical, represent a linear or branched (C3-C3)alkyl group other than isopropyl, n- butyl and 2-ethylhexyl, such as t-butyl or n-octyl, or a (C3-Cio)cycloalkyl group other than cyclohexyl, such as isobornyl, said homopolymers additionally being other than cis-cis-di-n-octyl muconate;4) homopolymers a1) comprising units (A) for which Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group and R2and R3together form a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, heterocycle comprising at least one oxygen atom and comprising from 3 to 6 ring members, preferably having 3 ring members, such as epoxy, and R4and R'4, which are preferably identical, are as defined above;5) homopolymers a1) comprising units (A) for which R2and R3, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, it being understood that R2and R3cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; preferably, R2and R3represent a hydroxyl group.
[0037] Another subject-matter of the invention is a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one polymer chosen from the polymers 1), 2), 3), 4) and 5) as defined above and their mixtures.
[0038] Another subject-matter of the invention is a process for the preparation of the polymers 1), 2), 3), 4) and 5) as defined above, and also the reactants (I'-C) R'4- O-C(O)-CH=CH-CH=CH-C(O)-OR4, in which formula (I'-C) R4and R'4, which are identical or different, preferably identical, represent a linear or branched (C3-Cio)alkyl group other than isopropyl, n-butyl and 2-ethylhexyl, such as t-butyl or n-octyl, or a (C3-Cio)cycloalkyl group other than cyclohexyl, such as isobornyl. More preferentially, R4and R'4represent a t-butyl or n-octyl group.
[0039] Another subject-matter of the invention is a process for the preparation of dicarboxylic acid compounds or dicarboxylate salts (D-1) from the homopolymers a1) or copolymers a2) as defined above, R2and R3of which form a bond, by oxidative degradation, in particular of the double bond, preferentially by ozonolysis;
[0040] [Chem. 2]in which formula (D-1) Ri and R4are as defined above, or else Ri and / or R4represents a unit:[Chem. 3] with RET and X as defined above; preferentially R-i represents a -C(O)-OR’4 groupwith R’4as defined above.
[0041] Another subject-matter of the invention is the novel compounds of formula (D-1), it being understood that these compounds are different from a) 1 ,4- dimethyl 2,2,3,3-butanetetracarboxylate, b) 1 ,2-diethyl 1 , 1 ,2,2- ethanetetracarboxylate, c) 1 ,4-di-2-propen-1-yl 2,2,3,3-butanetetracarboxylate, d) 1 ,2-bis(2,2-dimethylpropyl) 1 ,1 ,2,2-ethanetetracarboxylate and e) 1 , 1 ,2,2- ethanetetracarboxylic acid 1 ,2-diphenyl ester. Preferably, (D-1) is such that Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group with R4and R'4as defined above; preferably, R4and R'4are identical, i.e. of formula (D-2), and R4and R'4represent iii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, or aromatic or non-aromatic, cyclic,hydrocarbon group comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms; preferably, said hydrocarbon group is saturated linear or branched acyclic, or cyclic:
[0042] [Chem. 4](0-2)
[0043] Another subject-matter of the invention is a kit comprising at least separate compartments, preferably two separate compartments, the first compartment comprising a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or one or more copolymer(s) a2) or a composition containing it / them, said homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) several repeat units chosen from the following units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and the second compartment comprising b) at least one crosslinking agent or a composition containing it or them.
[0044] Preferably, the first compartment of the kit does not comprise a crosslinking agent b). Preferably, the second compartment of the kit does not comprise a homopolymer a1) or a copolymer a2).
[0045] After application of the homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymers a2) comprising units (A) to keratin materials and in particular polymers 1), 2), 3), 4) and 5) as defined above and their mixtures, in particular to keratin fibres, the retention of the shape after the shaping of the fibres thus treated is greater than 24 h and remains after at least one shampooing. In addition, after application of the composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin, when thecomposition comprises one or more dyes and / or pigments, the colouring on said materials is persistent, in particular with regard to oils, water or sebum.
[0046] The composition, the cosmetic use and the method for the treatment of keratin materials as defined above make it possible to obtain, after application to said materials of the homopolymer(s) a1) and of the copolymer(s) comprising units (A) as defined above, and in particular of the polymers 1), 2), 3), 4), and 5) and their mixtures, treatments which are resistant in particular to shampoos, to sebum, to sweat and / or to water but also to fatty substances, in particular dietary fatty substances, such as oils.
[0047] In addition, the homopolymer(s) a1) and copolymer(s) a2) comprising units (A) as defined above, and in particular polymers 1), 2), 3), 4) and 5) and their mixtures, are easy to use in compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, and are easy to manufacture, even industrially, and remain stable overtime, even in solution. This is because the cosmetic use, the method for the treatment of keratin materials and the application of the composition employing the homopolymer(s) a1) and copolymer(s) a2) comprising units (A) as defined above, and in particular polymers 1), 2), 3), 4) and 5) and their mixtures, make it possible to obtain deposits of polymeric materials on the substrate which are very resistant to external attacks, in particular to sebum and to fatty substances which are found in food, in particular liquid fatty substances, such as vegetable oils and in particular olive oil. It appears that the make-up produced with at least one composition, in particular for making up the lips, is very resistant to external attacks, such as liquid fatty substances, in particular with regard to vegetable oils, such as olive oil. In addition, the make-up results obtained with the composition of the invention are very attractive.
[0048] Within the meaning of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated:- “polyol" is understood to mean a saturated or unsaturated, indeed even aromatic, cyclic or saturated or unsaturated acyclic hydrocarbon organic compound comprising from 2 to 100 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, including at least two hydroxyl -OH groups, preferably from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, it being possible for said compound to additionally comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, S and N, preferably it being possible for said heteroatom(s) to be inserted in the chain and / or in the ring(s) (in particular ether function); polyol is particularly understood to mean diols (two hydroxyl functions), triols (three hydroxyl functions), tetraols (four hydroxyl functions), pentols (five hydroxyl functions) and hexols (six hydroxyl functions);- “(Cx-Cy)alkyl" is understood to mean a saturated, linear or branched, acyclic monovalent hydrocarbon chain comprising from x to y carbon number, such as (Ci-C6)alkyl,understood to mean an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, pentyl or hexyl;- “(Ci-C4)alkyr is understood to mean a saturated, in particular linear or branched, C1-C4 hydrocarbon group, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl;- “(C8-C22)alkyr is understood to mean a saturated, linear or branched, preferably linear, C8-C22, in particular C10-C20, preferentially C12-C18, more preferentially C12-C16, hydrocarbon group, such as lauryl (C12), myristyl (C14), hexadecyl (Ci6), stearyl (Ci8), arachidyl (C20) or behenyl (C22); more particularly, “(Cs-Ci8)alkyr is a saturated, linear or branched, preferably linear, C8-Ci8hydrocarbon group;- “(meth)acrylate” is understood to mean an acrylate or a methacrylate;- “alkylene radical" is understood to mean a saturated, linear or branched, divalent Ci-C8, in particular Ci-C6, preferably C1-C4, hydrocarbon group, such as methylene, ethylene or propylene;- a hydrocarbon chain is unsaturated when it comprises one or more conjugated or nonconjugated double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds, preferably one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds;- a hydrocarbon chain is saturated when it does not comprise any unsaturation; said hydrocarbon chain can be linear or branched, and can comprise a cyclic group (if “cyclic” is mentioned) which interrupts said hydrocarbon chain;- “cycloalkyl" is understood to mean a saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, norbornyl or isobornyl, it being possible for the cycloalkyl radical to be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups, such as methyl; preferably, the cycloalkyl radical is an isobornyl group;- “cyclic" is understood to mean a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 1 ring, and comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclohexyl or phenyl;- “aryl" is understood to mean a mono- or polycyclic, fused or non-fused, aromatic unsaturated cyclic radical comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, and at least one ring of which is aromatic; preferentially, the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl or indenyl, preferably phenyl, radical; preferably, the aryl group comprises 1 ring and has 6 carbon atoms, such as phenyl;- a cyclic radical, or a non-aromatic part of an aryl radical, can also be substituted by one or more oxo groups;- “keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials,” is understood to particularly mean human skin (keratinized epithelium), such as the skin of the body, arms, hands, face, neckline or scalp, and human keratin fibres, such as head hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and bodily hair, preferentially head hair, the eyebrows and the eyelashes, morepreferentially still head hair;- “individualized" keratin fibres is understood to mean keratin fibres, in particular head hair, which, after application of the composition and drying, are not stuck together (or are all separated from one another) and thus do not form clumps of fibres;- “inorganic polymer1' is understood to mean a polymer, the backbone of which does not comprise carbon atoms;- "hybrid polymer1' or "organic-inorganic polymer1' is understood to mean a polymer comprising carbon atoms and heteroatoms, in particular oxygen and / or silicon heteroatoms, such as silane, comprising organic and inorganic components are named hybrid polymers;- “homopolymer1' is understood to mean a polymer resulting from the polymerization of identical monomers;- “copolymer1' is understood to mean a polymer resulting from the polymerization of different monomers, in particular at least two different monomers. Preferably, the copolymer of the invention results from two or three different monomers, more preferentially results from two different monomers;- “random copolymers" is understood to mean a polymer resulting from the polymerization of several different monomers generating chains with random sequences of the different monomers. For example, a random copolymer of monomers A and B might thus have the sequence -A-B-B-A-A-B-A-B-A-A-;- “gradient copolymers" is understood to mean copolymers exhibiting a change in the ratio of the different monomers along the chain, the distribution in the polymer chains of the comonomers depending on the change during the synthesis in the relative concentrations of the comonomers. The copolymers according to the invention preferentially comprise at least two different monomers, the concentrations of which along the polymer chain change gradually and systematically and predictably;- “block' polymer is understood to mean a polymer comprising at least two distinct successive blocks, that is to say of different chemical natures. Each block of the polymer according to the invention results from one type of monomer or from several different types of monomers. This means that each block can consist of a homopolymer or of a copolymer, it additionally being possible for this copolymer constituting the block to be in its turn random or alternating or gradient; the distribution of the monomers within each block can thus be random or controlled according to the nature and / or the reactivity of the monomers and / or the preparation process employed. The block polymer according to the invention thus comprises at least two blocks, advantageously two blocks (diblock) or three blocks (triblock);- "ethylenic monomer1' is understood to mean an organic compound comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated unsaturations of >C=C< type capable of polymerizing; preferably, the monomer(s) is / are chosen from the monomers of followingformula (V): H2C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R"', in which formula (V) R represents a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, and R'" represents a (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl, preferably (C8-C2o)alkyl, in particular (C2n)alkyl, group, with n an integer equal to 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10; preferably, R'" represents isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl or hexadecyl, more preferentially stearyl, or else R'" represents a (C5-Cio)cycloalkyl group, such as norbornyl or isobornyl, preferably isobornyl;- “non-crosslinked polymer” is understood to mean a homopolymer or a copolymer, said polymers comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and not comprising a unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates;- “crosslinked polymer” is understood to mean a homopolymer or copolymer, said polymers comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and / or (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates;- "Ri, R2, R3, R4and R'4of the different units (A), (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A1O), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and / or (A15) can be identical or different" is understood to mean that:- the Ri radicals of different units (A) can be identical to or different from one another and identical to or different from the Ri radicals of the optional units (A1), (A2), (A4), (A5), (A8), (A9) and / or (A11), also identical to or different from one another,- the R2radicals of different units (A) can be identical to or different from one another and identical to or different from the R2radicals of the optional units (A2), (A3), (A4), (A6), (A11), (A12) and / or (A13), also identical to or different from one another,- the R3 radicals of different units (A) can be identical to or different from one another and identical to or different from the R3radicals of the optional units (A1), (A3), (A4), (A6), (A7), (A8) and / or (A15), also identical to or different from one another, and the R4and / or R'4radicals of different units (A) can be identical to or different from one another and identical to or different from the R4radicals of the optional units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A5), (A7), (A12) and / or (A14), also identical to or different from one another;- “fatty substance" is understood to mean an organic compound which is immiscible in water at ordinary ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably of less than 1% and more preferentially still of less than 0.1%). They exhibit, in their structure, at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising atleast 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as, for example, ethanol, ether, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. These fatty substances are neither polyoxyethylenated nor polyglycerolated. They are different from fatty acids because salified fatty acids constitute soaps, which are generally soluble in aqueous media;- “liquid" fatty substance is understood in particular to mean a fatty substance which is liquid at 25°C and 1 atmosphere; preferably, said fatty substance has a viscosity of less than or equal to 7000 centipoises at 20°C;- the term “hydrocarbon" fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance which comprises at least 50% by weight, in particular from 50% to 100% by weight, for example from 60% to 99% by weight, or also from 65% to 95% by weight, indeed even from 70% to 90% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said fatty substance, of carbonbased compound, having an overall solubility parameter according to the Hansen solubility space of less than or equal to 20 (MPa)1 / 2, or of a mixture of such compounds;- the overall solubility parameter 6 according to the Hansen solubility space is defined in the article “Solubility Parameter Values” by Grulke in the work “Polymer Handbook”, 3rd Edition, Chapter VII, pages 519-559, by the relationship 6 = (dD2+ dP2+ dH2)1 / 2, in which:- dDcharacterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts, - dPcharacterizes the forces of Debye interactions between permanent dipoles, - dHcharacterizes the forces of specific interactions (hydrogen bond, acid / base or donor / acceptor type, and the like). The definition of the solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to Hansen is described in the paper by Hansen: The Three-Dimensional Solubility Parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967);- “oil" is understood to mean a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure;“hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil formed essentially of, indeed even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing a silicon or fluorine atom. It can contain hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups;- “volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials, in particular the skin, in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg);- “non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil having a vapour pressure of less than 0.13 Pa at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure;- “silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-0 group. The silicone oil can be volatile or non-volatile;- “pigment' is understood to mean all the pigments which contribute colour to keratin materials, of synthetic or natural origin, the solubility of the pigments in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) being less than 0.05% by weight and preferably less than 0.01%;- “lake" is understood to mean dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium. Mention may be made, among the organic dyes, of cochineal carmine;- “dyes" is understood to mean the oxidation dyes and the direct dyes used to dye keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials, such as the skin and / or head hair; the dyes can be natural or synthetic;- “active agents for caring for keratin materials" is understood to mean free-radical scavengers, antioxidants, anti-ageing active agents, depigmenting agents, soothing agents, moisturizing agents, vitamins, anti-dandruff agents or agents which modulate the barrier function;- “UV-A screening agent' is intended to denote any compound which screens out (or absorbs) ultraviolet (UV) radiation in the range of wavelengths extending from 320 nm to 400 nm. A distinction may be made between short UV-A screening agents (which absorb rays at a wavelength of between 320 and 340 nm) and long UV-A screening agents (which absorb rays at a wavelength between 340 and 400 nm);- “UV-B screening agent' is intended to denote any compound which screens out (or absorbs) ultraviolet (UV) radiation in the range of wavelengths extending from 280 nm to 320 nm.The UV-A and / or B screening agents can be organic or inorganic;- “organic" UV screening agent is understood to mean a hydrocarbon UV-A and / or UV- B screening agent comprising at least one aromatic group, devoid of inorganics;- “inorganic" UV screening agent is understood to mean an inorganic UV-A and / or UV-B screening agent;- “anhydrous" dispersion or composition is understood to mean a dispersion or composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, indeed even less than 0.5% of water, and in particular devoid of water; if appropriate, such small amounts of water can in particular be introduced by ingredients of the composition which can contain residual amounts thereof;- “special effect pigments" is understood to mean pigments which create in a general way a coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vividness and a certain brightness) which is non-uniform and which changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, angles of observation, and the like). They thereby contrast with coloured pigments, which provide a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent colour; and- the "aryl" radical can be substituted by at least one substituent carried by a carbon atom, chosen from:* a C1-C4 alkyl radical;* halogen;* hydroxyl;* C1-C2 alkoxy;* (poly)hydroxy(C2-C4)alkoxy;* amino;* an amino radical substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl radicals;* acylamino (-NR-C(O)-R') in which the R and R’ radicals, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical;* carbamoyl ((R)2N-C(O)-) in which the R and R' radicals are as defined above;* alkylsulfonylamino (R'-S(O)2-N(R)-) in which the R and R' radicals are as defined above;* an aminosulfonyl ((R)2N-S(O)2-) radical in which the R radicals, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical;* carboxylic in acid or salified (preferably with an alkali metal or a substituted or unsubstituted ammonium) form;* cyano;* nitro or nitroso;* polyhaloalkyl, preferentially trifluoromethyl;* alkylcarbonylamino (R-C(O)-N(R’)-) in which the R radical is as defined above and R’ represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group and the R radical is a Ci-C2alkyl radical, an amino radical optionally substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups;* alkylcarbonyloxy (R-C(O)-O-) in which the R radical is a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an amino group optionally substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups;* alkoxycarbonyl (R-G-C(O)-) in which the R radical is a C1-C4 alkoxy radical and G is an oxygen atom or an amino group optionally substituted by a C1-C4 alkyl group;- “oxidative degradation" is understood to mean ozonolysis or strong oxidation, such as carried out in the presence of alkali metal manganates or dichromates, preferably under hot conditions;- "ozonolysis" denotes the reaction of a polymer comprising one or more repeat units chosen from the units (A) and optionally comprising one or more units (A1) to (A15) with an ozone molecule; - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more";- the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions “of between", “ranging from ... to ..." and “extending from ... to ..."; and the expression “inclusive" for a range of concentrations means that the limits of the range form part of the defined interval.[00491 The use
[0050] A subject-matter of the invention is thus the cosmetic use a) of one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or of one or more copolymer(s) a2) or of a composition containing it / them, for the treatment of human keratin materials, in particular a) human keratin fibres, such as head hair, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, or P) human skin, said homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as described above and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and / or (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates.
[0051] According to one embodiment, the application to said keratin materials is carried out with a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, which contains a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2), said polymers comprising several repeat units chosen from i) the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and b) optionally one or more crosslinking agent(s).
[0052] According to a particular embodiment, the application to said keratin materials is carried out with a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, which contains a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2), said polymers comprising several repeat units chosen from i) the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and ii) at least one unit chosen from theunits (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and b) optionally one or more crosslinking agent(s), preferably without crosslinking agent b).
[0053] According to a particular embodiment, the application to said keratin materials is carried out with a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, which contains a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2), said polymers comprising several repeat units chosen from i) the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and no unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above, and b) one or more crosslinking agent(s).
[0054] According to a particular embodiment, the application to said keratin materials is carried out with a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, which contains a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) comprising several repeat units chosen from i) the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above, and optionally b) at least one crosslinking agent, said composition additionally comprising c) at least one fatty substance as defined above, or d) at least one dye, or e) at least one pigment, or f) at least one active agent for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, or g) at least one UV(A) and / or UV(B) screening agent, or their c) to g) mixture, it being understood that said composition does not comprise a copolymer a2).
[0055] According to a particular embodiment, the application to said keratin materials is carried out with a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, which contains a) one or more copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from i) the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and b) optionally one or more crosslinking agent(s), said composition additionally comprising c) at least one fatty substance as defined above, or d) at least onedye, or e) at least one pigment, or f) at least one active agent for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, or g) at least one UV(A) and / or UV(B) screening agent, or their c) to g) mixture, it being understood that said composition does not comprise a homopolymer a1).
[0056] When the application to human keratin materials employs b) at least one crosslinking agent, the latter can be applied sequentially with a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or one or more copolymer(s) a2), preferably a) then b), or also b) can be applied at the same time as a).
[0057] The compositions CP
[0058] A subject-matter of the invention is a composition CP, in particular a cosmetic composition, which contains a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2), said polymers comprising several repeat units chosen from i) the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometric isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally iii) one or more units resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) chosen from iii1) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylate, and / or iii2) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylamide, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylamide, and optionally b) one or more crosslinking agent(s), it being understood that, when the composition CP does not comprise a crosslinking agent and / or comprises neither a unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) nor a unit resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) chosen from iii1) (Ci- C22) (cyclo) alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl(meth)acrylate, and / or iii2) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylamide, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylamide, and when, in the units (A), the R2and R3radicals together form a bond, then the composition comprises at least one compound chosen from c) fatty substances, which are preferably liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, d) dyes, e) pigments, preferably pigments, f) one or more active agents for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, g) UV (A) and / or (B) screening agents, or h) their c) to g) mixtures.
[0059] According to one embodiment, the composition CP contains a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2), said polymers comprising several repeat units chosen from i) the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally b) one or more crosslinking agent(s), and said composition CP additionally contains at least one compound chosen from c) fatty substances, which are preferably liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, d) dyes, e) pigments, preferably pigments, f) one or more active agents for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, g) UV (A) and / or (B) screening agents, or h) their c) to g) mixtures.
[0060] According to one embodiment, the composition CP contains a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2), said polymers comprising several repeat units chosen from i) the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and / or (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally b) one or more crosslinking agent(s), preferably no crosslinking agent b), and said composition CP optionally contains at least one compound chosen from c) fatty substances, which are preferably liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, d) dyes, e) pigments, preferably pigments, f) one or more active agents for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, g) UV (A) and / or (B) screening agents, or h) their c) to g) mixtures.
[0061] According to one embodiment, the composition, CP contains a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) comprising several repeat units chosen from i) the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and / or (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally b) one or more crosslinking agent(s), and said composition CP contains at least one compound chosen from c) fatty substances, which are preferably liquid at 25°C andatmospheric pressure, d) dyes, e) pigments, preferably pigments, f) one or more active agents for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, g) UV (A) and / or (B) screening agents, or h) their c) to g) mixtures, it being understood that said composition does not comprise a copolymer a2).
[0062] According to one embodiment, the composition CP contains a) one or more copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from i) the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally b) one or more crosslinking agent(s), and said composition CP optionally contains at least one compound chosen from c) fatty substances, which are preferably liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, d) dyes, e) pigments, preferably pigments, f) one or more active agents for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, g) UV (A) and / or (B) screening agents, or h) their c) to g) mixtures, it being understood that said composition does not comprise a homopolymer a1).
[0063] According to one embodiment, the composition CP, in particular cosmetic composition, contains a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2), said polymers comprising several repeat units chosen from i) the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and / or (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and iii) one or more units resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) chosen from iii1) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate, preferably (C5-C22) (cyclo) alkyl (meth)acrylate, and / or iii2) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylamide, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylamide, and optionally b) one or more crosslinking agent(s).
[0064] According to a particular embodiment, the composition CP of the invention as defined above employs one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) in which R1 represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl.
[0065] According to a particular embodiment, the composition CP of the invention as defined above employs one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) in which Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group.
[0066] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic use of the invention employs one or more homopolymer(s) a1) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above, it being understood that said use does not employ a copolymer a2) comprising several repeat units (A).
[0067] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic use of the invention employs one or more copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above, it being understood that said use does not employ a homopolymer a1) comprising several repeat units (A).
[0068] According to yet another particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic use of the invention employs one or more homopolymer(s) a1) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above and one or more copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above.
[0069] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more homopolymer(s) a1) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above and comprises one or more copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units (A) as defined above.
[0070] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic use of the invention employs one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) in which Ri represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl.
[0071] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic use of the invention employs one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) in which Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group.
[0072] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic use of the invention and / or the composition CP of the invention employs one or more copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) and one or more units resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) iii) chosen from iii1) (C1-C22) (cyclo) alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate,preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylate, and / or iii2) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylamide, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylamide (called copolymer X).
[0073] Preferably, the additional monomer(s) iii) is(are) chosen from the monomers of following formula (II): H2C=C(R6)-C(O)-E-R5, in which formula (II) E represents an oxygen atom or N(R), preferably E represents an oxygen atom, with R representing a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, Re represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, and R5represents:- a linear or branched (Ci-C22)alkyl, preferably (Ci-C2o)alkyl, more preferentially (Ci-Cio)alkyl, group optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; preferably, R5represents methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl, t- butyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, 2-ethylhexyl, n-octyl, isooctyl, n-decyl, stearyl, methoxyethyl, ethoxyethyl and methoxypropyl, isodecyl, lauryl or hexadecyl, more preferentially methyl, or else- a (C5-C22)cycloalkyl, preferably (C5-C2o)cycloalkyl, group, in particular cyclohexyl, norbornyl or isobornyl, preferably isobornyl, or else- an aryl or aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as benzyl.
[0074] Preferably, R6represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl.
[0075] Preferred examples of R5groups are the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n- butyl, s-butyl, t-butyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, 2-ethylhexyl, isobornyl and cyclohexyl groups and more preferentially, the methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, t-butyl and isobornyl groups.
[0076] Particularly after obtaining the copolymers X as defined above, the latter are hydrolysed, resulting in copolymers comprising polymeric units of following formula (III):
[0077] [Chem. 5]
[0078] in which formula (III) R6is as defined above in the formula (II) and A represents a hydroxyl, amino or O“M+group with M+as defined above in the formula (A).
[0079] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic use of the invention and / or the composition CP of the invention employ one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) in which R2and R3represent a hydroxyl group.
[0080] More precisely, according to this embodiment, all or part of the polymeric units (A) are polymeric units (B):
[0081] [Chem. 6]
[0082] in which formula (B) Ri and R4are as defined above in the formula (A); in particular, the polymeric units (B) are such that R4represents a hydrogen atom or an M+representing a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium cation or a primary, secondary or tertiary (Ci- C8)alkylamine which can comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms (such as amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine, dimethylamino-2- propanol, lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine) and can comprise several alcohol functions, it being understood that at least one of the nitrogen atoms is protonated by a hydrogen atom so as to form an ammonium, it being understood that each of these amines is protonated. Said units (B) can then be found in the form of a cyclized polymeric unit (B1), in particular in an acidic medium. According to one embodiment, the polymeric units (B) for which R4represents a hydrogen atom or an M+as defined above can be found in the form of a cyclized polymeric unit (B1), in particular in an acidic medium:
[0083] [Chem. 7]
[0084] According to one embodiment, the polymeric units (B) such that Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4, in particular carboxyl, or carboxylate -C(O)OM, group are represented by the formula (B'):
[0085] [Chem. 8]
[0086] Said polymeric units (B') can be cyclized, in particular in an acidic medium, to result in the bicyclic units (B'1):
[0087] [Chem. 9]
[0088] According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic use of the invention and / or the composition CP of the invention employ(s) one or morehomopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) in which R2and R3together form a bond.
[0089] More precisely, the polymeric units (A) in which R2and R3together form a bond are polymeric units (C) and also their optical or geometrical isomers and solvates, such as hydrates;
[0090] [Chem. 10]
[0091] in which formula (C) Ri and R4are as defined above in the formula (A).
[0092] According to one embodiment, the polymeric units (C) such that Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4, in particular carboxyl, or carboxylate -C(O)OM, group are represented by the formula (C):
[0093] [Chem. 11]
[0094] Formula (C') with R4and R'4, which are identical or different, preferably identical, being as defined above in the formula (A).
[0095] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic use of the invention and / or the composition CP of the invention employ one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) in which R2and R3together form a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, heterocycle comprising at least one oxygenatom and comprising from 3 to 6 ring members, preferably having 3 ring members, such as epoxy.
[0096] More precisely, the polymeric units (A) for which R2and R3together form a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, heterocycle comprising at least one oxygen atom and comprising from 3 to 6 ring members, preferably having 3 ring members, such as epoxy, are polymeric units (D) and also their optical isomers and solvates, such as hydrates;
[0097] [Chem. 12]
[0098] in which formula (D) Ri and R4are as defined above in the formula (A).
[0099] According to one embodiment, the polymeric units (D) for which Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4, in particular carboxyl, or -C(0)OM, group are the polymeric units (D'):
[0100] [Chem. 13]
[0101] Formula (D') with R4and R'4, which are identical or different, preferably identical, being as defined above in the formula (A).
[0102] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic use of the invention and / or the composition CP of the invention employ(s) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) in which R4and / or R'4represent(s) i) a hydrogen atom.
[0103] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic use of the invention and / or the composition CP of the invention employ one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) in which R4 and / or R'4 represent(s) ii) a cationic counterion M+, preferably an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium cation or a primary, secondary or tertiary (Ci-C8)alkylamine which can comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and can thus comprise, for example, several alcohol functions, it being understood that at least one of the nitrogen atoms is protonated by a hydrogen atom so as to form an ammonium. Mention may in particular be made of amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine, dimethylamino-2-propanol, lysine or 3- (dimethylamino)propylamine, it being understood that each of these amines is protonated.
[0104] Preferably, M+is chosen from alkali metals, such as Na+, Li+or K+, alkaline earth metals, such as Ca2+, and the metal Zn2+, or the following protonated amines, protonated amino-2-methyl-2-propanol or protonated triethanolamine.
[0105] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic use of the invention and / or the composition CP of the invention employ one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) in which R4 and / or R'4 represent(s) iii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, non-cyclic, or saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, cyclic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms; preferably, said hydrocarbon group is saturated linear or branched acyclic, or cyclic. According to a preferred embodiment, R4and / or R'4represent(s) a linear or branched (C1- Ci8)alkyl, preferably (Ci-Ci2)alkyl, group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen, in particular chosen from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, t-butyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, 2-ethylhexyl, n-octyl or isooctyl and more preferentially chosen from t-butyl or n-octyl.
[0106] According to another embodiment, R4 and / or R'4 represent(s) a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably is(are) chosen from saturated (C5- Ci2)cycloalkyl cyclic groups, such as cyclohexyl or isobornyl, or aromatic unsaturated cyclic groups, such as (C6-Ci2)aryl or (C6-Ci2)aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl, such as benzyl.
[0107] Preferred examples of R4and / or R'4groups are ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n- butyl, sec-butyl, t-butyl, 2-ethylhexyl, n-octyl, isooctyl, isobornyl, cyclohexyl or benzyl, and more preferentially R4and / or R'4represent(s) an ethyl, isopropyl, t- butyl, n-octyl or isobornyl group.
[0108] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic use of the invention and / or the composition CP of the invention employs one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) to (D') as defined above in which R4and R'4, which are identical or different, represent iii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, non-cyclic, or saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, cyclic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms; preferably, said hydrocarbon group is saturated linear or branched acyclic, or cyclic, said hydrocarbon group being additionally substituted by one or more (di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino groups and / or interrupted by one or more a') heteroatoms chosen from O, N(Ra) and Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O)rwith r = 1 , 2 or 3 or carbonyl, c') or combinations of a') with b'), such as -C(O)-O-, -O- C(O)-, amide -C(O)-N(Ra)-, -N(Ra)-C(O)-, urethane -N(Ra)-C(O)-O- or -O-C(O)- N(Ra)-, urea -N(Ra)-(CO)-N(Rb)-, carbonate -O-C(O)-O-, -[O-Si(Rb)(Rc)]P- or - [(CRa2)p-O]q- with p an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably of between 1 and 200, and q represents an integer of between 1 and 4; with q of between 1 and 200, in which Rarepresents a hydrogen atom and Rband Rc, being as defined above, preferably represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl. b) The crosslinking aqent(s)
[0109] According to one embodiment of the invention, the use and / or the composition CP, besides the presence of i) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) to (D') as defined above, and ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, employ or contain b) one or more crosslinking agent(s); the units (A1) to (A15) including one or more groups RET, which are identical or different, representing a group resulting from the crosslinking of at least one reactive group of at least one unit (A), preferably of at least one hydroxyl group and / or of at least one -C(O)-OR'4and / or -C(O)-OR4group of a unit (A), with at least one crosslinking agent chosen in particular from the crosslinking agents b-1) to b-8), preferentially chosen from (S'), (E), (F), (G), (H), (I), (J), (K), (L), (M), (N), (O) and (P) as defined below, more preferentially chosen from (S'), (E), (F), (K) and (O).
[0110] According to one embodiment, the crosslinking of the polymers preferably takes place at units other than the double bonds originating from sorbic or muconic acid. Thus, crosslinked polymers having a large number of double bonds can subsequently be easily degraded by ozonolysis, which is not the case with polymers no longer possessing double bonds as a result of their crosslinking. "Crosslinking agent" is understood to mean more particularly a chemical compound which can bond by at least two atoms by (photo)chemical, thermal, catalytic and / or enzymatic reaction with the units (A) to (D') as defined above, RET, which are identical or different, representing a group resulting from the crosslinking of at least one reactive group of at least one unit (A), preferably of at least one hydroxyl group and / or of at least one -C(O)-OR'4and / or -C(O)-OR4group of a unit (A), with at least one crosslinking agent chosen in particular from the crosslinking agents b-1) to b-8), preferentially chosen from (S'), (E), (F), (G), (H), (I), (J), (K), (L), (M), (N), (O) and (P) as defined below, more preferentially chosen from (S'), (E), (F), (K) and (O).
[0111] According to one embodiment, "crosslinking agent" is understood to mean a compound capable of creating at least two covalent bonds with at least two reactive functions of at least one unit (A), said reactive functions preferably being chosen from hydroxyl groups and / or -C(O)-OR'4and / or -C(O)-OR4groups of at least one unit (A). In particular, the crosslinking agents are of formula (S'):
[0112] [Chem. 14](S')
[0113] in which formula (S'):- Core represents a polymeric or non-polymeric polyvalent radical; in particular, Core represents:• either i) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, acyclic, or saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, cyclic, polyvalent hydrocarbon group comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, particularly from 3 to 36 carbonatoms, it being possible for said hydrocarbon group a) to be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or silicon atoms or -[O-Si(Rb)(Rc)]P- with Rband Rcas defined above and p of between 1 and 200, carbonyl -C(O)- or their combinations, such as ester -C(O)-O-, -O- C(O)-, amide -C(O)-N(R')-, -N(R')-C(O)-, urethane -N(R')-C(O)-O- or-O-C(O)- N(R')-, urea -N(R')-(CO)-N(R')- or carbonate -O-C(O)-O-, in which R’ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;• or ii) an organic polymer, preferably chosen from an ethylenic homopolymer or ethylenic copolymer;• or iii) an inorganic polymer; or• or iv) a hybrid polymer; it being understood that the core in its polymer form ii), iii) or iv) can be dendrimeric or hyperbranched; and m, n and p, which are identical or different, represent an integer preferably of between 0 and 10, more preferentially between 0 and 5, it being understood that the sum of m + n + p is greater than or equal to 2, preferably of between 2 and 10.
[0114] According to another embodiment, "crosslinking agent" is understood to mean a compound capable of creating at least one covalent bond with at least one reactive function F1 of at least one unit (A) and at least one reactive function F2 different from F1 capable of reacting with at least one constituent of the composition to create a network. By way of example, F1 can be an amino function and F2 an alkoxysilane group, such as an ethoxysilane group. According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent(s) is(are) chosen from:1) organic compounds comprising at least 2 heterocyclic groups comprising from 3 to 10 ring members (preferably 3 ring members) and from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, such as O, S or N, and / or from 1 to 3 carbonyl groups, preferably epoxide or aziridine; or- 2) organic compounds comprising at least 1 electron-donating group, such as a primary amine or secondary amine group, such as amino, hydroxyl or thiol, preferably at least 2 electron-donating groups, such as hydroxyl, amino or thiol; and- 3) (in)organic compounds comprising at least one phosphorus-based group - OP(O)(OH)2, -OP(O)(O M+)2, -P(O)(OH)2or -P(O)(O M+)2with M+as defined above.
[0115] The homopolymer(s) a1) and / or the copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) to (D') as defined above is(are) particularly crosslinked by reaction of one or more compounds containing at least 2 epoxide functions (epoxide crosslinking agent), or at least 1 amine function (amine crosslinking agent) and another reactive function, or at least 2 acid functions, or at least one acid function and at least one amine function, or at least 2 thiol functions, or at least 2 aziridine functions, or at least two alcohol functions or an (in)organic compound comprising at least one phosphorus-based group OP(O)(OH)2, -OP(O)(O M+)2, -P(O)(OH)2or -P(O)(O M+)2with M+as defined above.
[0116] The homopolymer(s) a1) and / or the copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) to (D') as defined above is(are) particularly crosslinked by reaction of one or more compounds chosen from b-1), b-2), b-3), b-4), b-5), b-6), b-7) and b-8) and their mixtures.
[0117] b-1) Crosslinking agent comprising at least 2 epoxide functions:
[0118] According to one embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent(s) is(are) chosen from those of the family 1) as defined above and more particularly from the epoxidized crosslinking agents of formula (E) below:
[0119] [Chem. 15]
[0120] in which formula (E): n represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably of between 2 and 10, more preferentially between 3 and 5;- Core is as defined above in the formula (S').
[0121] Preferentially, the crosslinking agents of formula (E) are such that Core represents a saturated, linear or branched, acyclic, polyvalent (particularly divalent or trivalent) hydrocarbon group comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, better still from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen, and n is as defined above, preferably has the value 2 or 3.
[0122] It can concern alkanepolyol polyglycidyl ethers or poly(alkylene glycol) polyglycidyl ethers, such as but not limited to ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, diethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, polyethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, propylene glycol diglycidyl ether, 1 ,3-butanediol diglycidyl ether, 1 ,4-butanediol diglycidyl ether, neopentyl glycol diglycidyl ether, glycerol diglycidyl ether, glycerol triglycidyl ether, trimethylolpropane diglycidyl ether, trimethylolethane triglycidyl ether, triethylolpropane diglycidyl ether, triethylolethane triglycidyl ether, glycerol propoxylate triglycidyl ether, pentaerythritol tetraglycidyl ether, castor oil polyglycidyl ether, sorbitol polyglycidyl ether, polyglycerol polyglycidyl ether, alkane or aralkane bisepoxides, such as 1 ,2,3,4-diepoxybutane, 1 , 2,4,5- diepoxypentane, 1 ,2,5,6-diepoxyhexane, 1 ,2,7,8-diepoxyoctane, 1 ,4- and 1 ,3- divinylbenzene diepoxides, bisphenol A diglycidyl ether, bisphenol F diglycidyl ether, resorcinol diglycidyl ether and mixtures of these polyepoxides.
[0123] Preference will more particularly be given to ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, diethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, polyethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, propylene glycol diglycidyl ether, 1 ,3-butanediol diglycidyl ether, 1 ,4-butanediol diglycidyl ether, neopentyl glycol diglycidyl ether, glycerol diglycidyl ether, glycerol triglycidyl ether, trimethylolpropane diglycidyl ether, trimethylolethane triglycidyl ether, triethylolpropane diglycidyl ether, triethylolethane triglycidyl ether, glycerol propoxylate triglycidyl ether, pentaerythritol tetraglycidyl ether and more particularly ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether (EGDE) and trimethylolpropane triglycidyl ether (TPTE).
[0124] b-2) Crosslinking agent containing at least 1 amine function:
[0125] The crosslinking agents containing at least one amine function comprise at least two reactive groups, including at least one amine function.
[0126] According to one embodiment, the crosslinking agents b-2) comprise at least two amine functions and preferably only amine functions as reactive function.
[0127] According to another embodiment, the crosslinking agents b-2) comprise an amine function and at least one other reactive function other than an amine function.
[0128] According to one embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent(s) is(are) chosen from those of the family 2) as defined above and more particularly from the aminated crosslinking agents of formula (F) below:
[0129] [Chem. 16]
[0130] in which formula (F) n and Core are as defined above for (E) and R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl group optionally substituted by one or more aryl groups, such as phenyl.
[0131] According to one embodiment, the aminated crosslinking agent(s) employed in the invention are chosen from aminated compounds having one or more primary amine and / or secondary amine groups. It can thus be chosen from monoaminated, diaminated, triaminated or polyaminated compounds.
[0132] According to one embodiment, the aminated crosslinking agent(s) can comprise from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 3 to 36 carbon atoms, indeed even from 4 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0133] According to another embodiment, the aminated crosslinking agent(s) are polymeric, having a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 1 000 000, preferably ranging from 500 to 500 000 and preferentially ranging from 500 to 100 000.
[0134] Mention may be made, as aminated crosslinking agents, of n-butylamine, tert-butylamine, isobutylamine, propylamine, n-hexylamine, glycine, ethanolamine, 3-aminopropanol, dopamine, 7-amino-4-methylcoumarin, 1 ,4- bis(3-aminopropyl)piperazine, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3- aminophenylboronic acid, N-methyl-1 ,3-diaminopropane, N-propyl-1 ,3- diaminopropane, N-isopropyl-1 ,3-diaminopropane, N-cyclohexyl-1 ,3- diaminopropane, 2-(3-aminopropylamino)ethanol, 3-(2- aminoethyl)aminopropylamine, bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, methylbis(3- aminopropyl)amine, N-(3-aminopropyl)-1 ,4-diaminobutane, N,N- dimethyldipropylenetriamine, 1 ,2-bis(3-aminopropylamino)ethane, N,N’-bis(3- aminopropyl)-1 ,3-propanediamine, ethylenediamine, 1 ,3-propylenediamine, 1 ,4- butylenediamine, 1 ,6-hexamethylenediamine, amino acids, such as lysine, glutamine, cysteine, glutamic acid or serine, cystamine, xylenediamine, tris(2- aminoethyl)amine or spermidine.
[0135] Preferably, the aminated crosslinking agent(s) is(are) chosen from n- butylamine, 3-aminopropanol, dopamine, 7-amino-4-methylcoumarin, 1 ,4-bis(3-aminopropyl)piperazine, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), N-methyl-1 ,3- diaminopropane, N-propyl-1 ,3-diaminopropane, N-isopropyl-1 ,3- diaminopropane, N-cyclohexyl-1 ,3-diaminopropane, 2-(3- aminopropylamino)ethanol, 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropylamine, bis(3- aminopropyl)amine, methylbis(3-aminopropyl)amine, N-(3-aminopropyl)-1 ,4- diaminobutane, N,N-dimethyldipropylenetriamine, 1 ,2-bis(3- aminopropylamino)ethane, N,N’-bis(3-aminopropyl)-1 ,3-propanediamine, ethylenediamine, 1 ,6-hexamethylenediamine, lysine, glutamic acid, serine, cysteine or glutamine.
[0136] According to one embodiment, the aminated crosslinking agent(s) is(are) chosen from aminated organic polymers, in particular having a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 1 000 000, preferably ranging from 500 to 500 000 and preferentially ranging from 500 to 100 000.
[0137] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the aminated crosslinking agent(s) is(are) chosen from poly((C2-C5)alkyleneimines) and in particular polyethyleneimines and polypropyleneimines, especially poly(ethyleneimine)s (for example that sold under the reference 46,852-3 by Aldrich Chemical); poly(allylamine) (for example that sold under the reference 47,913-6 by Aldrich Chemical); polyvinylamines and their copolymers, in particular with vinylamides; mention may in particular be made of vinylamine / vinylformamide copolymers, such as those sold under the name Lupamin® 9030 by BASF; polyamino acids exhibiting NH2groups, such as polylysine, for example that sold by JNC Corporation (formerly Chisso); aminodextran, such as that sold by CarboMer Inc.; or acrylamidopropylamine- based copolymers.
[0138] According to one embodiment, the aminated crosslinking agent(s) is(are) chosen from polysaccharide aminated organic polymers, such as chitosans.
[0139] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the aminated crosslinking agent(s) is(are) chosen from inorganic or hybrid polymers, preferably hybrid polymers, chosen in particular from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the chain end and / or on side chains, for example aminopropyl end or side groups, such as, for example, those of formula (G), (H), (I) or (J):H2N-ALK-Si(Re)(Rf)-O[Si(R'e)(R'f)O-]u-Si(Re)(Rf)-ALK'-NH2(G)Re-Si(Re)(Rf)-O[Si(R'e)(R'f)O-]v-[Si(R'e)(ALK-NH2)-O]w-Si(Re)(Rf)2 (H)H2N-ALK-Si(Re)(Rf)-O[Si(R'e)(R'f)O-]x-Si(Re)(Rf)-ALK'-H (I)Rg-Si(Re)(Rf)-O[Si(R'e)(R'f)O-]y-[Si(R'e)(ALK"-NH-ALK'"-NH2)-O]z-Si(Re)(Rf)-R'g (J)
[0140] in which formulae (G), (H), (I) or (J):- ALK and ALK', which are identical or different, preferably identical, represent a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, such as propylene;- ALK" represents a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene group, preferably a (Ci- C4)alkylene group, such as propylene;- ALK'" represents a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene group, preferably a (Ci- C4)alkylene group, such as ethylene;Re, Rf, R'eand R'f, which are identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl;R'e, Rgand R'g, which are identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or (Ci- C4)alkyl group; u represents an integer greater than or equal to 2; preferably, u represents an integer so that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is of between 500 and 55 000 approximately;- v and w represent an integer and are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is of between 50 and 3000 approximately;- y and z represent an integer and are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is of between 5000 and 500 000 approximately.
[0141] Mention may be made, as examples of aminated silicone (G), of those sold under the names DMS-A11 , DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21 , DMS-A31 , DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by Gelest. Mention may be made, as examples of silicone (H), of those sold underthe names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS- 163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest. Mention may be made, as examples of silicone (I), of those sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by Gelest.
[0142] According to one embodiment, the aminated crosslinking agent(s) is(are) chosen from polyether amines known in particular under the reference Jeffamine from Huntsman; and in particular: polyethylene glycols and / or polypropylene glycols having an amine function at the chain end (monoamine or diamine), suchas those sold under the names Jeffamine M-600, M-1000, M-2005, M-2070, D- 230, D-400, D-2000, D-4000, ED-600, ED-9000 and ED-2003.
[0143] According to one embodiment, the aminated crosslinking agent(s) is(are) chosen from polytetrahydrofurans (or polytetramethylene glycols) having an amine function at the chain end (monoamine or diamine) or polybutadienes having an amine function at the chain end (monoamine or diamine).
[0144] According to another embodiment, the aminated crosslinking agent(s) is(are) chosen from dendrimers and hyperbranched polymers having a primary or secondary amine function (PAMAM) and poly(meth)acrylates or poly(meth)acrylamides carrying side primary or secondary amine functions, such as poly(3-aminopropyl)methacrylamide or poly(2-aminoethyl)methacrylate.
[0145] More preferentially, the aminated crosslinking agent(s) is(are) chosen from aminated polymers, such as polyethyleneimine, polylysine, chitosans, polyethylene oxides and / or polypropylene oxides having end amine groups.
[0146] According to another embodiment, the aminated crosslinking agent(s) is(are) chosen from non-polymeric aminated compounds, such as ethylenediamine, 1 ,6-hexamethylenediamine, lysine, glutamic acid, glutamine, cysteine, aminated polyethers or 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).
[0147] b-3) Crosslinking agent containing at least 2 carboxyl(ate) functions:
[0148] According to another embodiment, the crosslinking agent(s) of the invention is(are) chosen from organic crosslinking agents comprising at least 2 carboxyl groups, also called polycarboxylated crosslinking agent, and more particularly from polycarboxylated crosslinking agents of formula (K) below, and also their organic or inorganic base salts:
[0149] [Chem. 17]
[0150] in which formule (K) n and Core are as defined above for (E).
[0151] Mention may be made, among the polycarboxylic crosslinking agents of the invention, alone or as a mixture, of decanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, cyclopropanedicarboxylic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid,cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, naphthalene- 1 ,4-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2.3-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, suberic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, pimelic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, homophthalic acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, cyclohexanetricarboxylic acid, trimellitic acid,1 .2.3-benzenetricarboxylic acid, 1 ,3,5-benzenetricarboxylic acid, citric acid, butanetetracarboxylic acid, pyromellitic acid, tartaric acid, furanedicarboxylic acid, (cis, cis or cis, trans, or trans, trans)-mucosic acid or (cis, cis or cis, trans, or trans, trans)-sorbic acid.
[0152] b-4) Crosslinking agent containing at least 2 aziridine functions:
[0153] According to another embodiment, the crosslinking agent(s) of the invention is(are) chosen from organic crosslinking agents comprising at least 2 aziridine groups optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups, such as methyl, and more particularly from the polyaziridine crosslinking agent(s) of formulae (L) or (M) below:
[0154] [Chem. 18](L) (M)
[0001] in which formulae (L) and (M) n and Core are as defined above for (E).
[0002] Among the polyaziridine crosslinking agents of the invention, polyaziridinyl derivatives of alkanepolyols, such as, for example, pentaerythritol tetrakis(|3-aziridino)propionate, pentaerythritol tris(3-(N-aziridinyl)propionate), trimethylolpropane tris(3-(N-aziridinyl)propionate), pentaerythritol bis(3-(N- aziridinyl)propionate) and trimethylolpropane bis(3-(N-aziridinyl)propionate).
[0003] Other examples comprise polyaziridinyl derivatives of propionic esters of erythritol, of pentaerythritol, of trimethylolethane and of trimethylolpropane, which can be prepared by adding aziridine to the corresponding acrylate ester of a polyol. Mention may be made of the polyaziridine crosslinking agents sold by Polyaziridine Global, such as PZP-1000, PZE 1000, PZBI-25, PZ-33(pentaerythritol tris(3-(1-aziridinyl)propionate)) and PZ-28 (trimethylolpropane tris(2-methyl-1-aziridinopropionate)). Use may also be made of mixtures of the abovementioned aziridines.
[0004] According to another embodiment, the crosslinking agent(s) of the invention is(are) chosen from organic crosslinking agents comprising at least 2 aziridine groups optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups, such as methyl, and more particularly from the polyaziridine crosslinking agent(s) of formulae (L) or (M) below
[0155] b-5) Mixed crosslinking agents containing at least 2 functions, including at least one aziridine and at least one epoxide:
[0156] According to another embodiment, the crosslinking agent(s) of the invention is(are) chosen from organic crosslinking agents comprising at least 1 aziridine group optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups, such as methyl, and at least one epoxide group and more particularly from the mixed crosslinking agents of formula (N) below:
[0157] [Chem. 19]
[0158] in which formula (N): n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably of between 1 and 10;- o and p, which are identical or different, represent an integer of between 0 and 10, more preferentially between 0 and 5, it being understood that the sum of o + p is an integer greater than or equal to 1 and preferably the sum n + o + p is an integer of between 2 and 10;- Core is as defined above for (S').
[0159] b-6) Crosslinking agent containing at least 2 hydroxyl functions:
[0160] According to another embodiment, the crosslinking agent(s) of the invention is(are) chosen from organic crosslinking agents comprising at least 2 hydroxyl groups and more particularly from polyhydroxylated crosslinking agents chosen from those of following formula (O):
[0161] [Chem. 20]
[0162] in which formula (O) n and Core are as defined above for (E).
[0163] The polyhydroxylated crosslinking agents of the invention are more particularly chosen from glycerol, ethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol (tetramethylolmethane), erythritol, diglycerol, xylitol, triglycerol, sorbitol, mannitol or dipentaerythritol, isosorbide, hexamethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, 1 ,2- propanediol, 1 ,3-propanediol, 1 ,2-butanediol, 1 ,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1 ,4- butanediol, 2,4-butanediol, 3,4-butanediol, 1 ,4-pentanediol, 1 ,5-pentanediol, 2,2,4-trimethyl-1 ,3-pentanediol, 1 ,6-hexanediol, 1 ,2-octanediol, 1 ,8-octanediol, 1 ,10-decanediol, 2,2-dimethyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-methyl-1 ,5-propanediol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1 ,12-octadecanediol, 1 ,10-decanediol, 1 ,16- hexadecanediol, 1 ,12-dodecanediol, Pripol 2033, or from oligomers comprising 2 alcohol functions, such as polypropanediol, polyethylene glycol, polytetramethylene glycol with a Mw ranging from 100 to 10 000 g / mol, and also their mixtures.
[0164] b-7) Crosslinking agent containing at least 2 thiol functions:
[0165] According to another embodiment, the crosslinking agent(s) of the invention is(are) chosen from organic crosslinking agents comprising at least 2 thiol groups and more particularly from polythiolated crosslinking agents chosen from those of following formula (P):
[0166] [Chem. 21]
[0167] in which formule (P) n and Core are as defined above for (E).
[0168] The polythiolated crosslinking agents of the invention are more particularly chosen from pentaerythritol tetra(3-mercaptopropionate) and trimethylolpropane tris(3-mercaptopropionate).
[0169] b-8) Phosphorus-based (in)organic crosslinking agent:
[0170] According to another embodiment, the crosslinking agent(s) of the invention is(are) chosen from phosphorus-based (in)organic crosslinking agents, such as alkali metal or alkaline earth metal tri(Ci-C6)alkyl phosphates, such as alkali metal or alkaline earth metal (sodium) trimetaphosphates, and other phosphorus-based esters.
[0171] The polymer(s)
[0172] Another subject-matter of the invention is a polymer chosen from:1) random, block or gradient copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) several identical repeat units chosen from the units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates, and ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, and / or iii) one or more units resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) chosen from iii1) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylate, and / or iii2) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylamide, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylamide;2) random, block or gradient copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) at least two different repeat units chosen from the units (A) and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) defined above or their mixtures, and optionally iii) one or more units resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) chosen from iii1) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci- C4)(alkyl)acrylate, and / or iii2) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylamide, as defined above;3) homopolymers a1) comprising units (A) for which Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group and R2and R3together form a bond and R4and R'4represent a linear or branched (C3-C8)alkyl group other than isopropyl, n-butyl and 2-ethylhexyl, as defined above;4) homopolymers a1) comprising units (A) for which Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group and R2and R3together form a saturated or unsaturated heterocycle comprising at least one oxygen atom and comprising from 3 to 6 ring members, as defined above; and5) homopolymers a1) comprising units (A) for which R2and R3, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, it being understood that R2and R3cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, as defined above.
[0173] According to one embodiment, the polymer of the invention is a copolymer 1) comprising units (A) or (C) as defined above and below, in which Ri represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, or a -C(O)-OR'4group, and R2and R3together form a bond, R4and R'4being as defined above. More preferentially, the copolymers 1) are random and comprise units (A) for which Ri represents a - C(O)-OR'4group, and R2and R3together form a bond and R4and R'4, which are preferably identical, are as defined above, preferably represent iii) as defined above.
[0174] A subject-matter of the invention is a random copolymer 2) comprising units (A) or (C) as defined above and below for which Ri represents a -C(O)- OR'4group, and R2and R3together form a bond and R4and R'4, which are preferably identical, are other than a hydrogen atom, preferably represent iii) as defined above.
[0175] A subject-matter of the invention is a homopolymer 3) comprising units (A) or (C) as defined above and below for which Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group and R2and R3together form a bond and R4and R'4, which are preferably identical, represent a linear or branched (C3-C3)alkyl group other than isopropyl, n-butyl and 2-ethylhexyl, such as t-butyl or n-octyl, or a (C3-Cio)cycloalkyl group other than cyclohexyl, such as isobornyl.
[0176] A subject-matter of the invention is a homopolymer 4) or a copolymer 1) or 2) comprising units (A) or (D1) as defined above and below for which Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group and R2and R3together form a saturated orunsaturated, preferably saturated, heterocycle comprising at least one oxygen atom and comprising from 3 to 6 ring members, preferably having 3 ring members, such as epoxy, and R4and R'4, which are preferably identical, are as defined above.
[0177] A subject-matter of the invention is a homopolymer 5) or copolymer 1) or 2) comprising units (A), (B), (B1), (B1) and (B'1) as defined below for which R2and R3, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, it being understood that preferably R2and R3cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; preferably, R2and R3 represent a hydroxyl group.
[0178] A subject-matter of the invention is a homopolymer or copolymer comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) to (D') as defined above and below, crosslinked by b) one or more crosslinking agent(s) (E), (F), (K) and (O) as defined below, in particular of formula (E).
[0179] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the homopolymer(s) a1) comprise(s) several repeat units randomly distributed among the units (A) which is(are) chosen from those of formula (E') and also their Z / E geometrical isomers and the solvates, such as hydrates:
[0180] [Chem. 22]in which formula (E'):• R10 represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl,• R represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion, a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group other than n-butyl and 2-ethylhexyl, such as n-octyl, -butyl or isopropyl, or a cycloalkyl group, such as isobornyl, and• n is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferentially of between 10 000 and 5, more preferentially between 1000 and 10 and more preferentially still between 300 and 15.
[0181] More particularly, the homopolymer(s) a1) is(are) chosen from A1-1 to A1-4 and also their Z / E geometrical isomers and the solvates, such as hydrates:
[0182] [Table 2]
[0183] in which homopolymers A1 -1 to A1 -4 n is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferentially of between 10 000 and 5, more preferentially between 1000 and 10 and more preferentially still between 300 and 15.
[0184] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer(s) a2) comprise(s) several repeat units randomly distributed among the units (A) which is(are) chosen from those of formula (F) and also their Z / E geometrical isomers and the solvates, such as hydrates:
[0185] [Chem. 23]in which formula (F):• Rio represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl,• Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as n-octyl or t-butyl,• R12, which is different from Rn, represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl or t-butyl,and u and v represent the molar percentage of each randomly distributed repeat unit.• The final degree of polymerization of the polymer is preferentially of between 10 000 and 5, more preferentially between 1000 and 10 and more preferentially still between 300 and 15.
[0186] Preferentially, the copolymer(s) a2) comprise(s) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) chosen from:
[0187] [Table 3]
[0188] More particularly, the copolymer(s) a2) is(are) chosen from A2-1 to A2-4 and also their Z / E geometrical isomers and the solvates, such as hydrates:
[0190] According to one embodiment of the invention, the copolymer(s) a2) comprise(s) several repeat units distributed in block fashion among the units (A) which is(are) chosen from those of formula (G) and also their Z / E geometrical isomers and the solvates, such as hydrates:
[0191] [Chem. 24]
[0192] in which formula (G):• R10 represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl;• Rn represent a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as n-octyl; and• R12, which is different from Rn, represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl or t-butyl, and w and x are the molar percentage of each repeat unit distributed in block fashion; preferentially, the final degree of polymerization of the polymer (G) is of between 10 000 and 5, more preferentially between 1000 and 10 and more preferentially still between 300 and 15.
[0193] Preferentially, the copolymers a2) are of diblock type of formula G in which:
[0194] [Table 5]
[0195] More particularly, the copolymer(s) a2) are of diblock type chosen from A2-4 to A2-6 and also their Z / E geometrical isomers and the solvates, such as hydrates:
[0196] [Table 6]
[0197] According to one embodiment, the copolymers a2) are of triblock type and preferably comprise several repeat units chosen from the units (A) chosen from those of formula (H) and also their Z / E geometrical isomers and the solvates, such as hydrates:
[0198] [Chem. 25]
[0199] in which formula (H) R10, Rn and Rcare as defined above and R represents an Rn group. The final degree of polymerization of the polymer (H) is of between 10 000 and 5, more preferentially between 1000 and 10 and more preferentially still between 300 and 15.
[0200] Preferably of formula (H) in which:
[0201] [Table ?]
[0202] More particularly, the copolymer(s) a2) are of triblock type chosen from A2-7 and also their Z / E geometrical isomers and the solvates, such as hydrates:
[0204] According to one embodiment of the invention, the copolymer(s) a2) comprise(s) several repeat units distributed in block fashion among the units (A) which is(are) chosen from those of formula (J) and also their Z / E geometrical isomers and the solvates, such as hydrates:
[0205] [Chem. 26]in which formula (J):• Rio represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl;• Rn represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl;• R12 represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl; and• w and x are the molar percentage of each repeat unit distributed in block fashion.
[0206] The final degree of polymerization of the polymer is preferentially of between 10 000 and 5, more preferentially between 1000 and 10 and more preferentially still between 300 and 15.
[0207] More particularly, the copolymer(s) a2) are of diblock type chosen from A2-8 and A2-9 and also their Z / E geometrical isomers and the solvates, such as hydrates:
[0208] [Table 8]in which formula (K):• R10 represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as methyl;• R'10 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl;• R11 represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as methyl or butyl;• R12 represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl; and• w and x are the molar percentage of each repeat unit distributed in block fashion; and more particularly A2-9
[0210] [Table 9]
[0211] According one preferred embodiment of thethe polymer(s) is / are selected from 2) random, block, or gradient copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) at least two different repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above, and optionally ii) one or more units chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) and their mixtures as defined above, and optionally iii) one or more units resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) as defined above, the said copolymer(s) a2) being predominantly structurally amorphous, i.e., predominantly non-crystalline in other words they comprise a proportion of crystalline regions less than 50%. Particularly, the polymer(s) is / are selected from 2) random, block, or gradient copolymer(s) a2) comprise a proportion of crystalline regions less than or equal to 40%, more particularly less than or equal to 30%, preferentially less than or equal to 20%, more preferably less than or equal to 10%, even better less than or equal to 5% even better less than or equal to 2 %.
[0212] According one embodiment, the copolymer(s) a2) of the invention, is / are predominantly structurally amorphous, i.e., predominantly non-crystalline(s); they comprise a proportion of crystalline regions less than 50%Particularly, the copolymer(s) a2) of the invention comprise a proportion of crystalline regions less than or equal to 40%, more particularly less than or equal to 30%, preferentially less than or equal to 20%, more preferably less than or equal to 10%, even better less than or equal to 5% even better less than or equal to 2 %.
[0213] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer(s) of the invention homopolymer(s) a1) is / are semi-crystalline or predominantly amorphous; they comprise a proportion of crystalline regions less than 50%. Particularly, the homopolymer(s) a1) of the invention comprise a proportion of crystalline regions less than or equal to 40%, more particularly less than or equal to 30%, preferentially less than or equal to 20%, more preferably less than orequal to 10%, even better less than or equal to 5%even better less than or equal to 2 %.
[0214] Particularly, the homopolymer(s) a1) and copolymer(s) a2) of the invention comprise a proportion of crystalline regions less than or equal to 40%, more particularly less than or equal to 30%, preferentially less than or equal to 20%, more preferably less than or equal to 10%, even better less than or equal to 5% even better less than or equal to 2 %.
[0215] Particularly, the homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) of the invention is / are amorphous i.e. do(es) not comprise crystalline region.
[0216] By "crystallinity" of a polymer is meant the degree of structural order within a solid polymer. Unlike inorganic crystals, which have a highly ordered and repetitive structure over long distances, according to one embodiment, the polymer(s) present as semi-crystalline materials, composed of both crystalline (ordered) and amorphous (disordered) regions. In “crystalline" regions, polymer chains are aligned in a very ordered and compact manner, forming regular and repetitive structures (such as lamellae or spherulites). These regions have a distinct melting point (Tm). Whereas in “amorphous regions", polymer chains are entangled randomly and disorderly, without any long-range repetitive structure. These regions are more flexible and have a lower density than crystalline regions. They are characterized by a glass transition temperature (Tg), below which the material becomes rigid and brittle, and above which it becomes more flexible and rubberier.
[0217] The degree of crystallinity of the polymer(s) can be measured by any suitable technique known in the art. Examples of such techniques include for eg. i) Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) ; ii) X-ray Diffraction (XRD) ; iii) Polarized Light Microscopy (PLM): or iv) Density Measurement.
[0218] Preferably identification is made by thermal analysis such as with the technique of DSC i.e. by measuring the ratio between the enthalpies of fusion at the melting point of said polymer and of a fully crystalline polymer.
[0218] The process for the preparation of the polymers of the invention:
[0219] The process for the preparation of the polymers of the invention and in particular the polymers 1) to 5) as defined above, comprises at least stage i) and optionally one at least of stages ii) and iii) as defined in Scheme 1 below:[Chem. 28]
[0001] in which Scheme 1 the double bonds of the compounds (l-C), (C), (D), (D-1) and (B) can be of Z or E configuration and (D-1) can be in the form of a salt, preferably of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium or potassium.
[0002] Said polymer(s) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) of the invention can be prepared according to route i) from the polycondensation of diene (l-C) and also its Z / Z, Z / E, E / Z or E / E geometrical isomers, preferably in the presence of catalyst(s) and / or initiator(s) (radical initiators), in an in particular organic, preferably aprotic, more preferably in polar aprotic solvent, at a temperature of less than or equal to 120°C, in order to result in the polymer(s) (C) which can be of Z or E configuration, according to the following Scheme 2.
[0003] [Chem. 29]
[0220] in which Scheme 2 the compound (l-C) and the polymer (C) contain Ri and R4radicals which are as defined above.
[0221] Preferentially, the polymerization (or polycondensation) by route i) is carried out by group transfer (GTP) according to a repetition of "Mukaiyama / Michael" reactions. It is preferably "initiated" by one or moreinitiator(s) as defined below, in particular by one or more compounds of silylated ketene acetal (SKA) type of general structure (a), which are added to unsaturated monomers of "Michael acceptor" type, preferably in the presence of one or more catalyst(s) of Lewis acid or base type, and preferably using an aprotic solvent (see, for example, O. W. Webster, W. R. Hertler, D. Y. Sogah, W. B. Farnham and T. V. RajanBabu, J. Am. Chem. Soc., 1983, 105, 5706-5708). The preferred initiator / catalyst / monomer / solvent mixture makes it possible to carry out a polymerization of anionic type carried out either under "living" and "controlled" conditions and makes it possible to obtain random, block, star-branched, hyperbranched or dendrimeric homopolymers and copolymers of well-defined structure, of controlled molar masses and of low dispersity via in particular the initial monomer / initiator ratio; in particular, the monomer / initiator ratio is of between 10 000 and 5, more preferentially between 1000 and 10 and more preferentially still between 300 and 15.
[0222] Preferably, the initiator / catalyst molar ratio is of between 10 000 and 10, more preferentially between 1000 and 5 and more preferentially still between 100 and 1.
[0223] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymerization process does not employ an organometallic or malodorous sulfur-based catalyst used in some controlled radical polymerization techniques, such as ATRP or RAFT.
[0224] According to one embodiment, the anionic polymerization employs one or more lithiated initiator(s); this technique can be carried out at ambient temperature (25°C + / - 3°C) or above and thus does not require working at a very low temperature, which is a major advantage from an industrial viewpoint.
[0225] According to one embodiment of the invention the process employs one or more catalyst(s) chosen from Lewis bases and bases catalyst, especially selected from i) carbenes; ii) phosphazenes and Verkade’s bases more especially phosphazene ; iii) nitrogenous bases; iv) phosphines; v) Lewis acids derived from boron or sulfur; and vi) quaternary ammoniums.
[0226] According to one embodiment of the invention the process employs one or more catalyst(s) chosen from Lewis bases and bases catalyst especially selected from i) N-Heterocyclic Carbenes (NHCs) especially Imidazolium derivatives (such as IPr, IMes) and Arduengo’s carbenes ii) phosphazenes such as 1-tert-butyl-4,4,4-tris(dimethylamino)-2,2- bis[tris(dimethylamino)phosphoranylidenamino]-2A5,4A5-catenadi(phosphazene) (t-Bu-P4or P4-t-Bu or Phosphazene-P4 base), 1-tert- butyl-2,2,4,4,4-pentakis(dimethylamino)-2A5,4A5-catenadi(phosphazene) (t-Bu- P2or P2-t-Bu or Phosphazene-P2 base); Proazaphosphatranes (or Verkade's Bases) or bases which are structurally polycyclic compounds containing nitrogen and phosphorus, often with a cage-like structure, the central phosphorus can be hypervalent such as 2,8,9-triisobutyl-2,5,8,9-tetraaza-1- phosphabicyclo[3.3.3]undecane; iii) Amidines and Guanidines such as DBU (1 ,8- Diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), TBD (1 ,5,7-Triazabicyclo[4.4.0]dec-5-ene) or MTBD (7-methyl-1 ,5,7-triazabicyclo[4.4.0]dec-5-ene), and iv) Sterically Hindered or crowded Amine or phosphine Bases such as Triazabicyclodecene (TBD), tetramethylpyridine (TMP), Quinuclidine, tri(Ci-C6)alkylphosphine, diarylphosphine, triarylphosphine, dicycloalkylphosphine, tricycloalkylphosphine; and v) halogenated lewis acid derived from boron and sulfur; more preferably the catalyst(s) of the invention is / are chosen from strong organic bases or organocatalysts.
[0227] According to one preferred embodiment, the process employs one or more catalyst(s) chosen from Lewis acids and bases and particularly chosen from:N-heterocyclic carbenes, such as 1 ,3-diisopropyl-4,5-dimethylimidazol-2-ylidene, 1 ,3-diisopropylimidazol-2-ylidene or 1 ,3-di(tert-butyl)imidazol-2-ylidene; phosphazenes, such as 1-tert-butyl-4,4,4-tris(dimethylamino)-2,2- bis[tris(dimethylamino)phosphoranylidenamino]-2A5,4A5- catenadi(phosphazene) (t-Bu-P4or P4-t-Bu or phosphazene-P4 base), 1-tert- butyl-2,2,4,4,4-pentakis(dimethylamino)-2A5,4A5-catenadi(phosphazene) (t-Bu- P2or P2-t-Bu or phosphazene-P2 base); nitrogenous bases, such as 1 ,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene (DBU), 2,8,9- trimethyl-2,5,8,9-tetraaza-1-phosphabicyclo[3.3.3]undecane (TMP) and 2,8,9- triisobutyl-2,5,8,9-tetraaza-1-phosphabicyclo[3.3.3]undecane (TiBP); and phosphines, such as tri(Ci-C6)alkylphosphines, triarylphosphines or tricycloalkylphosphines, in particular tri(n-butyl)phosphine (Bu3P), tricyclohexylphosphine (Cy3P), triphenylphosphine (Ph3P) and tris(2,4,6- trimethoxyphenyl)phosphine (TTMPP);Lewis acids derived from boron, from sulfur, such as tris(pentafluorophenyl)borane, triethylsilyl trifluoromethanesulfonate, or a combination of these 2 catalysts, N-(triethylsilyl)- bis(trifluoromethanesulfonyl)imide, triphenylmethyl tetrakis(pentafluorophenyl)borate (TTPB), trifluoromethanesulfonimide, 2,3,4,5,6-pentafluorophenyl-1 ,1-bis(trifluoromethanesulfonyl)methane; and- quaternary ammoniums, in particular tetra(Ci-C6)alkylammonium halides, such as tetra(n-butyl)ammonium fluoride, tetra(n-butyl)ammonium 3-chlorobenzoate cyanide, tetra(n-butyl)ammonium benzoate, tetra(n-butyl)ammonium bisbenzoate, tetra(n-butyl)ammonium 3-chlorobenzoate, tetra(n- butyl)ammonium bis(3-chlorobenzoate); more preferably the catalyst(s) of the invention is / are chosen from strong organic bases or organocatalysts, especially phosphazenes, such as 1-tert-butyl-4,4,4-tris(dimethylamino)-2,2- bis[tris(dimethylamino)phosphoranylidenamino]-2A5,4A5- catenadi(phosphazene) (t-Bu-P4 or P4-t-Bu or Phosphazene-P4 base), 1-tert- butyl-2,2,4,4,4-pentakis(dimethylamino)-2A5,4A5-catenadi(phosphazene) (t-Bu- P2 or P2-t-Bu or Phosphazene-P2 base).
[0228] It will be preferable to use phosphazenes, such as 4A5- catenadi(phosphazene) or t-Bu-P4, also called P4-t-Bu and also called Phosphazene-P4 base, of following formula:
[0229] [Chem. 30]
[0230] According to an embodiment the catalyst(s) of the invention is / are chosen from 1 -tert-butyl-2, 2,4,4, 4-pentakis(dimethylamino)-2A5,4A5- catenadi(phosphazene) (t-Bu-P2or P2-t-Bu or Phosphazene-P2 base) of following formula:
[0231] [Chem. 31]t-Bu-P2.
[0232] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process employs one or more initiators which are derivatives of silylated ketene acetal (SKA) type of general structure (a) and also its E / Z geometrical isomers:
[0233] [Chem. 32]
[0234] in which formula (a}:- Pi and P4, which are identical or different, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl;- P2and P3, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group or a (C2-Ci2)alkenyl group, preferably represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl.
[0235] The preferred SKA compounds (a) used in the process of the invention are represented below by (SKA1) and (SKA2):
[0236] [Chem. 33](SKA1), RN 31469-15-5
[0237] [Chem. 34](SKA2) RN=73311-50-9
[0238] According to another embodiment, the initiators are of following formula (b), and also its Z / E geometrical isomers:
[0239] [Chem. 35]£b)
[0243] in which formula (b):Pi, P3, P4 and n are as defined above and- Core represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, acyclic, or saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, cyclic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, particularly from 3 to 36 carbon atoms, it being possible for said hydrocarbon group a) to be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or silicon atoms or - [O-Si(Rb)(Rc)]p- with Rb and Rcas defined above and p of between 1 and 200, carbonyl -C(O)- or their combinations, such as ester -C(O)-O-, -O-C(O)-, amide - C(O)-N(R')-, -N(R')-C(O)-, urethane -N(R')-C(O)-O- or -O-C(O)-N(R')-, urea - N(R')-(CO)-N(R')- or carbonate -O-C(O)-O-, in which R’ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Preferably n has the value 2 and / or Core represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, acyclic, or saturated or unsaturated, cyclic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, particularly from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0244] More particularly, the initiators of formula (b) are chosen from those of formulae (bT) to (b4) and also their Z / E geometrical isomers.
[0245] [Table 10]RN 124389-21-5
[0246] According to one embodiment of the process of the invention, the first stage i) is carried out in one or more aprotic solvent(s), in particular if the polymerization (or polycondensation) of route i) takes place by group transfer (GTP) as defined above, the solvent(s) being chosen from: polar aprotic solvents, in particular halo(Ci-C6)alkanes, such as dichloromethane, heterocycles, such as tetra hydrofuran (THF) or (Ci-C6)alkyl substituted THF such as methyl-THF, (Ci-C4)alkylnitriles, such as acetonitrile, or esters of C1-C12alkanols and of C1-C12 carboxylic acids, such as ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, isopropyl myristate or isononyl isononanoate, and non-polar aprotic solvents, in particular aromatics, such as toluene, xylene or anisole, and linear or branched C8to C20 alkanes, such as isododecane or Parleam.
[0247] More preferably, the solvent(s) employed in route i) is(are) chosen from the esters mentioned above, cyclic non-polar aprotic, preferably aromatic, solvents, such as toluene, or non-cyclic non-polar aprotic solvents, such as isododecane or Parleam, cyclic polar aprotic solvents, such as tetrahydrofuran or (Ci-C4)alkyl-THF such as methyl-THF, or acyclic polar aprotic solvents, such as (di)glyme.
[0248] In particular, the polymerization is carried out at a temperature of between -80°C and +100°C, preferentially from 0°C to 100°C and more preferentially from 0°C to 50°C.
[0249] Use may be made, in orderto terminate the polymerization, of one or more nucleophilic compounds or polar protic solvents, such as water, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, preferably aromatic, carboxylic acids, or alcohols and polyols, in particular (Ci-C6) alkanols. Methanol, ethanol or benzoic acid will preferably be used.
[0250] Other electrophilic mono- or polyfunctional terminating agents inducing the formation of one or more chemical functions at the chain end can be used, in particular aldehydes or halogenated (fluorinated, chlorinated, brominated or iodinated) compounds which are saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic.
[0251] The initiators, catalysts, solvents and temperature ranges are described, for example, for the polymerization of GTP type in the following references: F. Bandermann et al., Macromolecules, 1989, 190, 9, 2183-219; T. Kakuchi et al., Polymer Chemistry, 2013, 4, 4278-4291 , and United States patent application US 20230174071.
[0252] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer(s) a2) comprising several different repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above are of diblock type. Preferentially, the copolymer(s) a2) of diblock type is(are) prepared by polymerization employing a first monomer and one or more monofunctional initiator(s) and in particular of formula (a), then, once thismonomer has been "consumed", a second monomer different from the first is added.
[0253] According to one embodiment, the copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above is(are) of triblock or multiblock type; the initiators of formula (a) or (b) can be used and the various monomers of interest can be added sequentially.
[0254] Preferably, in the process of the invention, the initiator / catalyst molar ratio is of between 10 000 and 1 , more preferentially between 1000 and 5 and more preferentially still between 100 and 10.
[0255] Said polymer(s) (C) can subsequently be partially or completely epoxidized according to route ii), in an in particular organic, preferably aprotic, solvent, at a temperature of less than or equal to 120°C, to result in the epoxidized polymer(s) (D), according to the following Scheme (2):
[0256] [Chem. 36]
[0257] in which Scheme 3 the polymers (C) and (D) contain Ri and R4radicals which are as defined above.
[0258] The routes for epoxidation on unsaturated organic compounds are known to a person skilled in the art and can be carried out starting from oxidizing agent(s) and / or catalyst(s) (see, for example: Mohammed, M.L. and Saha, B., Recent Advances in Greener and Energy Efficient Alkene Epoxidation Processes, Energies, 2022, 15, 2858^Babot ED, Aranda C, Kiebist J, Scheibner K, Ullrich R, Hofrichter M, Martinez AT and Gutierrez A, Enzymatic Epoxidation of Long-Chain Terminal Alkenes by Fungal Peroxygenases, Antioxidants (Basel), 2022 Mar 8;11 (3):522. doi: 10.3390 / antioxl 1030522).
[0259] Mention may be made, among the oxidizing agent(s) which are particularly advantageous for carrying out the epoxidation, of molecular oxygen O2, peroxides, such as H2O2, peracids, in particular aromatic peracids, such as(halo) perbenzoic acids, such as m-chloroperbenzoic acid, or organic, organometallic or enzymatic catalysts, such as titanium, manganese or aluminium derivatives.
[0260] Mention may be made, among the relevant enzymes for carrying out the epoxidation of unsaturations, of lipases which convert acids into peracids which epoxidize the unsaturations, but also peroxygenases, non-haem monooxygenases, haloperoxidases, such as chloroperoxidase, or cytochrome P450 monooxygenases.
[0261] Said polymer(s) (D) can be hydrolysed according to route iii) in order to obtain one or more diol polymer(s) (B) according to the following Scheme 4:
[0262] [Chem. 37]
[0263] in which Scheme 4 the polymers (B) contain Ri and R4radicals which are as defined above, it being understood that (B) can be in cyclic form (B1) and bicyclic form (B'1) if Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group.
[0264] The methods for the hydrolysis of epoxides are known to a person skilled in the art (for a description of the conditions for the hydrolysis of epoxides, reference may be made to the publications: S. Bonollo, D. Lanari and L. Vaccaro, Ring Opening of Epoxides in Water, Eur. J. Org. Chem., 2011 , 2587-2598; Bucko, M., Kaniakova, K., Hronska, H., Gemeiner, P. and Rosenberg, M., Epoxide Hydrolases: Multipotential Biocatalysts, Int. J. Mol. Sci., 2023, 24, 7334).
[0265] According to one embodiment, the epoxidation stage is carried out in water or in a mixture of (non-)polar (a)protic organic solvent(s) and of water; the hydrolysis of the epoxide according to route iii) can be carried out concomitantly with route ii) in order to generate the corresponding vicinal diol of the diol polymer(s) (B).
[0266] According to one embodiment, the hydrolysis is carried out in a second stage according to route iii) subsequent to route ii) using an alkaline, neutral oracidic medium, preferably an acidic or basic medium, and using different types of catalysts of the type of organic bases (amines, such as triethylamine, phosphines, such as tributylphosphines, or heteronitrogenous bases, such as 1 ,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane (DABCO)), inorganic bases, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, such as NaOH or KOH, organometallic catalysts derived from titanium, aluminium, zirconium, bismuth, scandium, erbium or cobalt, p-cyclodextrin or enzymes, such as epoxide hydrolases.
[0267] According to another alternative form of the process of the invention, said polymer(s) (C) can be (di)hydroxylated according to route iv) in order to obtain one or more mono- or dihydroxylated, preferably di hydroxylated, polymer(s) (B) according to the following Scheme 5:
[0268] [Chem. 38] iv)
[0269] in which Scheme 5 the polymers (C) are as defined above and the polymers (B) are mono- or dihydroxylated, preferably di hydroxylated, as defined above.
[0270] According to one embodiment of the process of the invention, stage iv) of (di)hydroxylation on the unsaturation is carried out directly on the unsaturations of the polymer (C).
[0271] (Di) hydroxylation methods are known to a person skilled in the art (see, for example, T. Achard and S. Bellemin-Laponnaz, Recent Advances on Catalytic Osmium Free Olefin syn-Dihydroxylation, 2021 , 6, 877-896; C. Santi, R. Di Lorenzo, C. Tidei, L. Bagnoli and T. Wirth, Stereoselective Selenium Catalyzed Dihydroxylation and Hydroxymethoxylation of Alkenes, Tetrahedron, 2012, 68, 10530-10535; J. Chen, W. Song, YM Lee, W. Nam and B. Wang, Biologically Inspired Nonheme Iron Complex Catalyzed cis Dihydroxylation of Alkenes Modeling Rieske Dioxygenases, Coordination Chemistry Reviews, 2023, 477, 214945).
[0272] According to one embodiment of the process of the invention, stage iv) employs one or more oxidizing agent(s) (in particular under mild conditions) of the type of periodates, such as alkali metal or alkaline earth metal periodates, such as sodium periodate, Oxone, peroxides, selenium derivatives, but alsometal catalysts, such as OsO4, RuO4, other ruthenium complexes, such as the RuCI3 / NalO4combination, manganese derivatives, such as KMnO4, preferably diluted, or other manganese complexes, iron, palladium or silver complexes, these organometallic catalysts being used with different types of oxidizing agents, such as H2O2, O2 or other peroxides.
[0273] Enzymes, such as Rieske dioxygenases, can also be used.
[0274] Said polymer(s) (C) can be cleaved by oxidative degradation and preferably by ozonolysis, in particular at the double bond, according to route v) in an in particular organic, preferably polar, more preferentially polar protic, solvent, such as (Ci-C4)alkanols, in particular methanol, in particular carried out at a temperature of between 0°C and solvent reflux (preferentially at a temperature preferably of less than or equal to 120°C), more particularly at a temperature of between 5°C and 60°C, such as 50°C + / - 5°C, to result in the diacid compound(s) or dicarboxylate salt(s) (D-1), according to the following Scheme 6:
[0275] [Chem. 39]in which Scheme 6 R1 and R4are as defined above or else R1 and / or R4represent(s) the following unit -X-RET:[Chem. 40] with RET and X as defined above; preferentially R-i represents a -C(O)-OR’4 groupwith R’4 as defined above.
[0276] The polymers (C) can also be degraded according to route v) in a first stage by oxidizing agents, in particular alkali metal permanganates, in particular KMnO4, which is preferably concentrated, and / or by heating, in an in particularorganic solvent, preferentially by heating the medium to a temperature of between 50°C and solvent reflux and to a temperature preferably of less than or equal to 120°C, or by ozonolysis with ozone O3, in a preferably polar, more preferentially polar protic, solvent, such as (Ci-C4)alkanols, such as methanol, in particular carried out at a temperature of between 0°C and solvent reflux (preferentially at a temperature preferably of less than or equal to 120°C), more particularly at a temperature of between 5°C and 60°C, such as 50°C + / - 5°C, preferentially with O3, in order to obtain the compounds of formula (D-1) and also their optical isomers and their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts. On conclusion of this first oxidation stage, a mixture of oligomers and of the compounds of formula (D-1) may be obtained and it may prove necessary to carry out a second oxidation treatment, in particular in an acidic medium, preferably with one or more inorganic acids, preferentially by using hydrogen peroxide H2O2and an inorganic acid, such as sulfuric acid H2SO4, in particular in order to improve the yield of acquisition of the compounds of formula (D-1).
[0277] Preferably, the polymer comprising one or more repeat units chosen from the units (A) which is degraded by an oxidative degradation process according to the invention comprises at least one double bond and / or optionally one or more units (A3), (A4) or (A6). Preferably, each of the units (A) of the polymer comprises a double bond. More preferably, the polymer comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) is such that R2and R3form a bond and optionally one or more units (A1) to (A15), in particular one or more units (A3), (A4) or (A6). In particular, the polymer comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) is of formula (C) as defined above and optionally one or more units (A3), (A4) or (A6). Thus, the polymers used in a method according to the invention are particularly advantageous in that they can be degraded simply, for example at the end of use.
[0278] Another subject-matter of the present invention is thus a process for the degradation of a polymer comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) and optionally one or more units (A1) to (A15), in particular one or more units (A3), (A4) or (A6), and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates.
[0279] The degradation process according to the invention can be implemented by any suitable technique and advantageously makes it possible to obtain monomers, oligomers and / or derivatives of these.
[0280] In one embodiment, the degradation process is implemented by oxidative degradation, for example by contact with an alkali metal dichromate or manganate, such as potassium permanganate, or by ozonolysis, preferably by ozonolysis.
[0281] At each of the stages of the process according to the invention, the complete or partial hydrolysis of the ester group(s) -C(O)-OR4, -C(O)-OR'4 can be carried out using “strong” base(s) or strong acid(s) which are organic or inorganic, to result in -C(O)-O M+groups with M+as defined above.
[0282] The hydrolysis of the ester groups within the homopolymers a1) and copolymers a2) can be partial or complete depending on the synthesis conditions and can generate a copolymer a2') containing repeat units of formula (A) in which -C(O)-OR4, -C(O)-OR'4correspond to ester groups which are randomly distributed with repeat units of formula (A) in which -C(O)-OR4, -C(O)-OR'4correspond to carboxyl or carboxylate groups -C(O)-O M+with M+as defined above.
[0283] The crosslinked polymers of the invention (i.e. comprising at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) defined above) are obtained by reaction of at least one polymer a1) and / or a2) as defined above with at least one crosslinking agent as defined above.
[0284] The copolymers a2) can be random, block, in particular block, or gradient polymers.
[0285] Another subject-matter of the invention is a polymer capable of being obtained, in particular obtained, by a preparation process according to the invention.
[0286] The composition
[0287] The composition of the invention is preferably cosmetic and comprises: a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) b2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) defined above or their mixtures and in particular polymers 1), 2), 3), 4), 5) and their mixtures as defined above; and optionally;b) one or more crosslinking agent(s) as defined above.
[0288] Preferably, the composition additionally comprises b) one or more crosslinking agent(s) as defined above.
[0289] More particularly, the composition of the invention comprises:B1) one or more block copolymer(s) 1) comprising units (A) in which Ri represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, and R2 and R3 together form a bond and R4 is as defined above; and / orB2) one or more homopolymer(s) 2) comprising units (A) for which R1 represents a - C(O)-OR'4group and R2and R3together form a bond, and R4and R'4, which are preferably identical, represent a linear or branched (C4-C8)alkyl group, such as t-butyl or n-octyl; and / orB3) one or more random copolymer(s) 3) comprising units (A) for which R1 represents a -C(O)-OR'4group and R2and R3together form a bond, and R4and R'4, which are preferably identical, are other than a hydrogen atom, preferably represent iii) as defined above; and / orB4) one or more homopolymer(s) or copolymer(s) 4) comprising units (A) for which R1 represents a -C(O)-OR'4group and R2and R3together form a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, heterocycle comprising at least one oxygen atom and comprising from 3 to 6 ring members, preferably having 3 ring members, such as epoxy, and R4and R'4, which are preferably identical, are as defined above; and / orB5) one or more homopolymer(s) or copolymer(s) 5) comprising units (A) for which R2and R3, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, it being understood that R2and R3cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; preferably, R2and R3represent a hydroxyl group.
[0290] The homopolymer(s) and / or the copolymer(s) comprising units (A) as defined above preferably represent between 0.01% and 30%, preferentially between 0.1% and 20%, more preferentially between 0.2% and 10%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0291] The composition according to the invention leads, after application to keratin materials, to deposits which are glossy, film-forming, resistant to fatty substances at ambient temperature (25°C) and advantageous in particular for make-up and / or hair applications. The polymers of the invention also prove to be very good thickeners, in particular the crosslinked polymers.
[0292] The cosmetic active agent(s)
[0293] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition CP of the invention, the use and the method employ or comprise one or more compounds chosen from c) fatty substances, which are preferably liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, d) dyes, e) pigments, f) one or more active agents for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, g) UV (A) and / or (B) screening agents, or h) their c) to g) mixtures.
[0294] e) The pigments
[0295] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition CP of the invention, the use and the method employ e) at least one pigment.
[0296] The pigment(s) more particularly represent from 0.5% to 40% by weight of the total weight of the composition and preferably from 1% to 20% by weight.
[0297] The pigment(s) are white or coloured solid particles which are naturally insoluble in the hydrophilic and lipophilic liquid phases usually employed in cosmetics or which are rendered insoluble by formulation in the form of a lake, if appropriate. More particularly, the pigments have little or no solubility in aqueous / alcoholic media.
[0298] The pigment(s) which can be used are in particular chosen from the known organic and / or inorganic pigments of the art, in particular those which are described in Kirk-Othmer’s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. Mention may in particular be made, as pigments, of organic and inorganic pigments, such as those defined and described in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, “Pigments, Organic”, 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim and ibid, “Pigments, Inorganic, 1. General”, 2009 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim .1002 / 14356007. a20_243.pub3.
[0299] These pigments can be provided in the form of a pigment paste or powder. They can be coated or uncoated. The pigments can, for example, be chosen from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special-effect pigments, such as pearlescent agents or glitter, and their mixtures.
[0300] The pigment(s) can be inorganic pigments.
[0301] “Inorganic pigment" is understood to mean any pigment which satisfies the definition of Ullmann’s Encyclopedia in the “Pigments, Inorganic” chapter.
[0302] Mention may be made, among the inorganic pigments of use in the present invention, of iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.
[0303] The pigment(s) can be organic pigments.
[0304] “Organic pigment" is understood to mean any pigment which satisfies the definition of Ullmann’s Encyclopedia in the “Pigments, Organic” chapter.
[0305] The organic pigment(s) are in particular chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.
[0306] In particular, the white or coloured organic pigments are chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index underthe references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index underthe references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as are described in Patent FR 2 679 771 .
[0307] Mention may also be made, by may of examples, of pigment pastes of organic pigments, such as the products sold by Hoechst under the names: Cosmenyl Yellow IOG: Pigment Yellow 3 (Cl 11710); Cosmenyl Yellow G: Pigment Yellow 1 (Cl 11680); Cosmenyl Orange GR: Pigment Orange 43 (Cl 71105); Cosmenyl Red R: Pigment Red 4 (Cl 12085); Cosmenyl Carmine FB: Pigment Red 5 (Cl 12490); Cosmenyl Violet RL: Pigment Violet 23 (Cl 51319); Cosmenyl Blue A2R: Pigment Blue 15.1 (Cl 74160); Cosmenyl Green GG: Pigment Green 7 (Cl 74260); Cosmenyl Black R: Pigment Black 7 (Cl 77266).
[0308] The pigments in accordance with the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments, such as as described in Patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder providing the fixing of the organic pigments to the core and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.
[0309] The organic pigment can also be a lake. “Lake” is understood to mean dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0310] The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0311] Mention may be made, among the dyes, of carminic acid. Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D&C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D&C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D&C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D&C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D&C Green (Cl 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (Cl 77 002), D&C Green 3 (Cl 42 053) or D&C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).
[0312] Mention may be made, by way of example of a lake, of the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (Cl 15 850:1).
[0313] The pigment(s) can also be special effect pigments.
[0314] “Special effect pigments" is understood to mean pigments which create in a general way a coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vividness and a certain brightness) which is non-uniform and which changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, angles of observation, and the like). They thereby contrast with coloured pigments, which provide a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent colour.
[0315] Mention may also be made of interference pigments which are not attached to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) or interference holographic glitter (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances which are fluorescent in daylight or which produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments,thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, for example sold by Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0316] The variety of the pigments which can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colours and also specific optical effects, such as metallic effects or interference effects.
[0317] The size of the pigment used according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 pm and more preferentially between 30 nm and 50 pm.
[0318] The pigments can be dispersed in the composition by virtue of a dispersing agent.
[0319] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles from their agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent can be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can become attached physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments.
[0320] Preferably, the pigment(s) is(are) chosen from inorganic, mixed inorganic / organic or organic pigments.
[0321] The composition can comprise one or more dye(s) f), in particular one or more direct dye(s).
[0322] “Direct dye" is understood to mean natural and / or synthetic dyes, other than oxidation dyes. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially over the fibre.
[0323] They can be ionic or non-ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic.
[0324] d) The dyes
[0325] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition CP of the invention, the use and the method employ d) at least one dye.
[0326] According to a particular embodiment, the dye(s) are natural or synthetic direct dyes.
[0327] Examples of suitable direct dyes which may be mentioned comprise azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes, such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes;porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures; more preferentially red iron oxides, in particular iron(lll) oxide.
[0328] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition is anhydrous, i.e. it comprises an amount of water of less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferentially of less than or equal to 3% by weight, more preferentially of less than or equal to 1% by weight, better still of less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. More particularly, the composition is devoid of water.
[0329] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises water v), preferably in an amount of greater than 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition; in particular, the amount of water in the composition is greater than 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, more particularly greater than 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
[0330] The composition according to the invention can additionally contain adjuvants normally used in the cosmetics field, such as preserving agents, pearlescent agents, antioxidants, thickeners, such as polymers other than a), and surfactants. The composition of the invention can be employed in the form of sprays, of serums, of more or less thickened solutions or of emulsions of oil-in- water or water-in-oil type.
[0331] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition CP, orthe use, or the method for the treatment of keratin materials employ(s) one or more alkaline agent(s) (or base(s)). The inorganic alkaline agent(s) or inorganic base(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates, such as sodium or potassium carbonate and sodium or potassium bicarbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, or their mixtures.
[0332] The method for the treatment of keratin materials:
[0333] According to one embodiment, the method employs at least one stage of application to keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials, especially a) to human keratin fibres, such as head hair, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, or P) to human skin, a) of one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or of one or more copolymer(s) a2) for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials, said homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprisingi) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) as defined above or their mixtures, optionally b) in the presence of one or more crosslinking agent(s) as defined above.
[0334] In particular, the method employs at least one stage of application to human keratin materials, in particular a) to human keratin fibres, such as head hair, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, or P) to human skin, of a cosmetic composition, which comprises: a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) b2) comprising i) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) as defined above and their mixtures and in particular polymers 1), 2), 3), 4), 5) and their mixtures, and optionally b) one or more crosslinking agent(s) as defined above.
[0335] According to one embodiment, the method employs at least one stage of application to human keratin materials, in particular a) to human keratin fibres, such as head hair, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, or ) to human skin, a) of one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or of one or more copolymer(s) a2) for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials, said homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) as defined above and their mixtures, b) in the presence of one or more crosslinking agent(s) as defined above.
[0336] According to one embodiment, the method employs at least one stage of application to human keratin materials, in particular a) to human keratin fibres, such as head hair, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, or P) to human skin, a) of one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or of one or more copolymer(s) a2) for the treatment of human keratin materials, said homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) as defined above and their mixtures, said method not employing b) a crosslinking agent.
[0337] According to a preferred embodiment, the method employs at least one stage of application to human keratin materials, in particular a) to human keratin fibres, such as head hair, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, or P) to human skin, a) of one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or of one or more copolymer(s) a2) for the treatment of human keratin materials, said homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) asdefined above and ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) as defined above and their mixtures, said method employing optionally b) at least one crosslinking agent, preferably not employing b) a crosslinking agent.
[0338] In particular, the method employs at least one stage of application to human keratin materials, in particular a) to human keratin fibres, such as head hair, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, or P) to human skin, of a cosmetic composition which comprises: a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) b2) comprising i) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) as defined above and their mixtures, and in particular polymers 1), 2), 3), 4), 5) and their mixtures, as defined above, and b) one or more crosslinking agent(s) as defined above.
[0339] According to another embodiment, the method employs at least two stages:- a first stage employing the application to keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials, especially a) to human keratin fibres, such as head hair, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, or ) to human skin, a) of one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or of one or more copolymer(s) a2) for the treatment, said homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) as defined above and their mixtures, then- a second stage employing one or more crosslinking agent(s) b) as defined above or at least one composition containing the crosslinking agent(s).
[0340] Rheological consistency
[0341] The consistency of the gel is evaluated via a conventional protocol for the study of oscillatory rheology. The consistency G* (in Pa) and the loss angle 5 (in °) can be measured by applying the following protocol:
[0342] The apparatus employed is the Anton Paar MCR302 rheometer, with a sandblasted cone-plate 25 mm / 2° measurement body. The exemplified composition is in water, in the presence of a preserving agent.
[0343] The viscoelastic behaviour is measured at 25°C.
[0344] The waiting time configured on the apparatus is 120 s before the measurement for equilibration.
[0345] A logarithmic stress sweep at 1 Hz from 0.1 to 1000 Pa is carried out, with 21 points measured. The measurement is duplicated. The mean values of G* and 0 are taken in the linear viscoelastic range (Iver), which is defined as the zone where the values of G* and 0 vary little as a function of the shear stress and form a plateau on the representation as a function of this shear stress (variation less than ± 10%).
[0346] The gels of interest exhibit a loss angle 5 < 50° and a G* > 500 mPa, preferentially a 5 < 30° and a G* > 100 Pa and more preferentially still a 5 < 10° and a G* > 500 Pa.
[0347] Crosslinking protocol:
[0348] In a typical chemical crosslinking procedure, the starting polymer is diluted in distilled water in a flask containing a magnetic stirrer. The mixture is homogenized for 5 minutes. Finally, the crosslinking agent, pure or diluted in water or a water-soluble solvent, is added to the preceding polymer solution. The mixture thus obtained is subsequently placed under study at 150°C for 1 h. The crosslinked polymer thus obtained is diluted with water to reach a concentration of 1% by weight and the rheological behaviour of this mixture is subsequently measured as described above.
[0349] The molar % of crosslinking agent, with respect to the reactive functions of the polymer, is preferably greaterthan 1%, more preferentially greaterthan 5% and more preferentially still greater than 10%.
[0350] The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the following examples.EXAMPLESAbbreviations:DEM corresponds to trans, trans diethylMuconate or E,E-diethylMuconate,- c,t DEM corresponds to cis, trans diethylMuconate or Z,E-diethylMuconate;- c,c DEM corresponds to cis, cis diethylMuconate or Z,Z-diethylMuconate;DMM corresponds to trans, trans dimethylMuconate or E,E-dimethylMuconate DIM corresponds to trans, trans diisopropylMuconate or E,E- diisopropylMuconateDOM corresponds to trans, trans dioctylMuconate or E,E-dioctylMuconate DtBuM corresponds to trans, trans ditButylMuconate or E,E-ditButylMuconate- D corresponds to the polydispersity obtained by Size Exclusion Chromatography (SEC)P2-tBu corresponds phosphazene-P2 base, and P4-TBu or Phosphazene-P4 base correspond to the following formulas :[Chem. 41]Phosphazene-P2baseRheology measurement protocol:
[0351] The rheometer used is the Anton Paar MCR 302 rheometer. The sandblasted cone-plate 25 mm / 2° (gap 104 pm) geometry was used at an analysis temperature of 25°C.
[0352] The analysis of the shear stress sweep is carried out as follows:- Waiting time of 2 min.- Shear stress sweep from 0.1 Pa to 1000 Pa, f = 1 Hz (no stationary mode).This analysis makes it possible to determine the viscoelastic modulus (G”) and the loss factor (6) of the linear viscoelastic range (LVER).
[0353] All the percentages of reactants described in the examples are percentages by weight.1 ) Synthesis of the initiator SKA 2:
[0354] The 3-stage synthesis is adapted from the reference Hertler, W. R., Reddy, G. S. and Sogah, D. Y., Anion-Catalyzed Reactions of Silyl Ester Polyenolates with Electrophiles, J. Org. Chem. 1988, 53 (15), 3532-3539, https: / / doi.Org / 10.1021 / jo00250a022.
[0355] [Chem
[0356] in which scheme: rt to 75°C means that the reaction is at ambient temperature (20-30°C) and is then heated up to 75°C, 0°C (or -84°C) to rt means that the reaction is at 0°C (or at -84°C) and is then allowed to heat up to ambient temperature (20-30°C).
[0357] But-_2-en y[ chloride S1_:
[0358] 10 g (116 mmol, 1 eq.) of crotonic acid are added to a 100 ml round- bottomed flask equipped with a magnetic stirrer and vacuum-inert gas (Ar) flushing is carried out. 20.7 g (12.6 ml, 174 mmol, 1.5 eq.) of thionyl chloride are subsequently added dropwise using and also a few drops of DMF. The medium is subsequently heated to 75°C and stirred for 1 h. The orange solution is allowed to cool to ambient temperature, followed by evaporation under vacuum. The but- 2-enoyl chloride (S1) is subsequently used directly for the 2nd synthesis stage.
[0359] Sy thesis_of_ethyl but-_2_-enpate _(S2) :
[0360] 10.2 ml of dry ethanol (8 g, 174 mmol, 1.5 eq.), 80 ml of dry pentane and16.2 ml of triethylamine (11.74 g, 116 mmol, 1 eq.) are added to a round- bottomed flask under an inert atmosphere and equipped with a magnetic bar. This mixture is placed in an ice bath at 0°C. The but-2-enoyl chloride (S1) previously obtained (116 mmol, 1 eq.) is subsequently added dropwise. Thereaction medium is allowed to return to ambient temperature and a white precipitate appears. The mixture is left stirring for 3 h before adding 10 ml of a saturated NaHCO3solution, followed by 50 ml of deionized water. The reaction medium is subsequently introduced into a separating funnel. The organic phase is extracted from the aqueous phase by washing with 3 times 30 ml of diethyl ether. The organic phases are subsequently combined and then washed with a saturated NaCI solution. The resulting organic phase is subsequently dried over magnesium sulfate before distilling off the volatile solvents on a rotary evaporator. The product is purified by distillation and stored over dried 4A molecular sieve. The structure is confirmed by spectroscopic methods with a yield of greater than 40%.
[0361] Sy _nthesis_of_l-_e_thgxy il-It LmethylsHoxy)- 1 J.- butadiene_(SKA_2)^
[0362] 16.5 ml of a 1.5M solution of lithium diisopropylamide (LDA) in aTHF / heptane / ethylbenzene ternary solvent mixture (24.08 mmol, 1.4 eq.) and 20 ml of anhydrous THF are added to a 100 ml Schlenk tube under an inert atmosphere (Ar). The medium is cooled to a temperature of less than -80°C. 2 g (2 ml, 17.2 mmol, 1 eq.) of ethyl but-2-enoate (S2) are then slowly added. After 30 minutes, 3.5 ml (27.5 mmol, 1.6 eq.) of chlorotrimethylsilane are added. The reaction medium is allowed to return to ambient temperature and a white precipitate appears. After 20 minutes, the reaction medium is filtered under an inert atmosphere. The filtrate is subsequently evaporated under vacuum, hexane is then added and the mixture thus obtained is again filtered. The filtrate is evaporated under vacuum and then the product is purified by vacuum cryodistallation. The final product thus obtained is analysed by spectroscopic methods (67% cis and 33% trans). Yield greater than 60%.2) Synthesis of the dialkyl muconates:
[0363] [Chem. 43]
[0364] For diethyl muconate (DEM), diisopropyl muconate (DIM) and dioctyl muconate (DOM), the following general protocol was used. To form the various diesters, the corresponding alcohols are used as solvent: respectively ethanol, isopropanol and 1-octanol.
[0365] Chlorotrimethylsilane (18.3 ml, 144 mmol, 4 eq.) is added to a solution of trans, trans-muconic acid (5.12 g, 36 mmol, 1 eq.) in the corresponding alcohol (150 ml in excess) in a 250 ml two-necked round-bottomed flask. The reaction medium is subsequently heated to 80°C for ethanol or 90°C for isopropanol or 100°C for 1 -octanol for 3 h. The reaction is monitored by spectroscopy or spectrometry. Once the reaction is finished, the reaction medium is allowed to return to ambient temperature.
[0366] The same purification method is used for the 3 diesters: when the reaction medium has returned to ambient temperature, a saturated NaHCO3solution (70 ml) is added and the mixture is left stirring for 10 minutes. The mixture is placed in a separating funnel to which 70 ml of diethyl ether are added. The organic phase is subsequently washed with a saturated NaCI solution (70 ml), dried over magnesium sulfate and then filtered before being evaporated under reduced pressure. The solid obtained is subsequently recrystallized from methanol before being dried by azeotropic evaporation with toluene in a Schlenk tube. The muconic acid diesters are subsequently stored under an inert atmosphere (Ar). Yield (greater than 90%).
[0367] Sy _nthesis_of_t_rans jrans d
[0368] Chlorotrimethylsilane (18.3 ml_, 144 mmol, 4 eq) was added to a solution of trans, trans muconic acid (5.12 g, 36 mmol, 1 eq.) in methanol (150 mL) in a 250 mL two-necked flask. The reaction mixture was then heated to 65 °C for 5 hours. The reaction progress was monitored by spectroscopy or spectrometry. Once the reaction mixture returned to room temperature, a saturated NaHCO3solution (70 mL) was added, and the mixture was stirred for 10 minutes. The mixture was then transferred to a separatory funnel, into which 70 mL of dichloromethane was added. The organic phase was subsequently washed with a saturated NaCI solution (70 mL), dried over magnesium sulfate, then filtered before being evaporated under reduced pressure. The obtained solid was then recrystallized from THF before being dried by azeotropic evaporation with THF in a Schlenk flask. Yield greater than 95%.
[0369] Fpj jj(tLbutyl)_mucpn_ate PjBu]\ / IL Jhe_syn_thesis_Ls_different:
[0370] [Chem. 44]
[0371] in which scheme: rt to 75°C means that the reaction is at ambient temperature (20-30°C) and is then heated up to 75°C, 0°C to rt means that the reaction is at 0°C and is then allowed to heat up to ambient temperature (20- 30°C).
[0372] S nthesis_of_2 A-hexanedienedipyL chLoride {S3).:.
[0373] 4 g (28 mmol, 1 eq.) of trans, trans-muconic acid are introduced into a 100 ml round-bottomed flask under argon before introducing, dropwise, 6 ml (9.84 g, 83 mmol, 3 eq.) of thionyl chloride. After the complete introduction of thionyl chloride, 3 drops of DMF are added. The reaction medium is subsequently heated to 75°C until the release of gas disappears. The pale orange solution is allowed to return to ambient temperature and the excess thionyl chloride is evaporated off under vacuum. The 2,4-hexadienedioyl chloride (S3) thus obtained is used directly in the next stage of the reaction.
[0374] 4.16 g (5.34 ml, 56 mmol, 2 eq.) of t-butyl alcohol and 30 ml of dry THF are introduced into a 250 ml round-bottomed flask equipped with a magnetic stirrer. The medium is cooled in an ice bath and then 22.4 ml of a 2.5M solution of n-butyllithium in hexane are slowly added (56 mmol, 2 eq.). Once the addition is complete, the ice bath is removed to allow the reaction medium to return to ambient temperature. After 1 h at this temperature, the medium is again cooled in an ice bath and then 2,4-hexadienedioyl chloride (S3, 5.04 g, 28 mmol, 1 eq.), dissolved beforehand in 25 ml of dry THF, is added to the lithium t-butoxide. A brown colour appears during the addition. The reaction medium is left stirring at ambient temperature for 1 h and then the reaction is halted by addition of 20 ml of deionized water.
[0375] The reaction medium is subsequently introduced into a separating funnel to which 70 ml of diethyl ether are added. The organic phase is set aside and the aqueous phase is extracted twice with 30 ml of diethyl ether. The organic phasesare combined and washed with 70 ml of a saturated NaCI solution. The organic phase thus obtained is dried over magnesium sulfate, filtered and dried with a rotary evaporator. The brown solid thus obtained is recrystallized 10 times from acetone and once from toluene. The di(t-butyl) muconate crystals thus obtained are introduced into a Schlenk tube with 5 ml of toluene, followed by azeotropic distillations with toluene in order to obtain a water-free monomer. Yield > 65%.
[0376] tranS-diethyllMuconate:
[0377] [Chem. 45]E,Z-DEM Z,Z-DEM
[0378] Chlorotrimethylsilane (18.3 ml_, 144 mmol, 4 eq) was added to a solution of cis, cis muconic acid (5.12 g, 36 mmol, 1 eq.) in ethanol (150 mL) in a 250 mL two-necked flask. The reaction mixture was then heated to 80 °C for 3 hours. The reaction progress was monitored by spectroscopy or spectrometry. Once the reaction was complete, the reaction mixture was allowed to return to room temperature.
[0379] Once the reaction mixture had returned to room temperature, a saturated NaHCO3solution (70 mL) was added, and the mixture was stirred for 10 minutes. The mixture was then transferred to a separatory funnel, into which 70 mL of diethyl ether was added. The organic phase was subsequently washed with a saturated NaCI solution (70 mL), dried over magnesium sulfate, then filtered before being evaporated under reduced pressure. The obtained solid was then purified by silica column chromatography (eluent: Cyclohexane I Dichloromethane 50 / 50v) to separate the cis, trans and cis, cis isomers. After separation, the cis, trans diethylMuconate (c,t DEM), in liquid form, was added over calcium hydride, cryo-distilled, and then stored under Argon. The cis, cis DiethylMuconate (c,c DEM), in solid form, was dried 3 times by azeotropic evaporation in a Schlenk flask with toluene, then stored under inert atmosphere such as Argon. The overall yield thus obtained was greater than 90%, with more than 30% cis, trans isomer and more than 60% cis, cis isomer.
[0380] 3) Synthesis of polyethyl muconate (PDEM), polyisopropyl muconate (PDIM), poly(n-octyl) muconate (PDOM) and polvft-butvh muconate (PDtBuM) homopolvmers:
[0381] All the polymerizations are carried out under anhydrous conditions. The monomers and solvents are dried, distilled or recrystallized in order to avoid the presence of any impurity and of traces of water.
[0382] The structures of the polymers are confirmed by1H and13C NMR and the distributions by weight of the polymers are analysed by size exclusion chromatography (SEC) in THF (PMMA calibration).
[0383] PpJyme_riz_atipn_usinpLSKA1_ asjnitiatgr:
[0384] In a typical procedure, the polymerizations are carried out in a Schlenk tube in a glove box and at ambient temperature. For example, for a polydiethyl muconate with a theoretical degree of polymerization (DPn) of 100, a mixture is produced in the following molar proportions: [DEM]0 / [SKA1]0 / [t-Bu-P4]0= 100 / 1 / 0.01.
[0385] Thus, 100 pl of a solution of SKA1 in toluene (100 mmol. I-1, 10 pmol), 100 pl of P4-t-Bu in solution in toluene (1 mmol. I-1, 0.1 pmol) and 3 ml of dry toluene are introduced into a 10 ml Schlenk tube. The medium is stirred for 1 minute and then 1 ml of diethyl muconate solution (DEM, 1 mol. I-1in toluene, 1 mmol) is added. After stirring for 6 minutes, the reaction medium is quenched by addition of a few drops of benzoic acid in solution at 100 mmol. I-1in toluene. The progression of the reaction is monitored by1H NMR and confirms that the consumption of the DEM is complete. The volatile solvents are evaporated and then the polymer is redissolved in toluene before being precipitated from n- pentane, filtered and then dried under vacuum. The yield of the polymerization is > 99%.
[0386] The DEM homopolymer thus obtained is such that Mn: 64 800 g / mol, polydispersity index £): 1.80
[0387] PpJyme_riz_atipn_usinpLSKA2 asj nit jator jn toluene:
[0388] The same procedure is used to polymerize each of the monomers. The polymerizations are carried out under an inert atmosphere and at ambient temperature (25°C). For example, for PDEM1 , 2 ml of a solution of SKA2 in toluene (100 mmol. I-1, 200 pmol), 2 ml of P4-t-Bu dissolved in toluene (1 mmol. I-1, 2 pmol) and 10 ml of dry toluene are added to a Schlenk tube. This mixture is stirred and then 10 ml of diethyl muconate (DEM) diluted in toluene (1 mol. I-1, 10mmol) are added. The reaction is subsequently halted after 1 minute to 20 minutes, by addition of a few drops of methanol. The analysis by spectroscopy or spectrometry confirms the complete conversion of the monomers.
[0389] The solvents are subsequently evaporated and then the polymer is redissolved in toluene before being precipitated from n-pentane for PDEM, PDIM and PDtBuM or from methanol in the case of PDOM. The yields obtained are > 95%.
[0390] [Table 11]
[0391] Tol: Toluene, Vol. = volume
[0392] PoJymej izatipn_usinpLSKA2 asj nit jator jn THF:.
[0393] The polymerizations were carried out under an inert atmosphere and at ambient temperature (25°C). For example, for PDEM4, 100 pl of a solution of SKA2 in THF (100 mmol.F1, 10 pmol), 100 pl of P4-t-Bu in solution in THF (1 mmol. I"1, 0.1 pmol) and 2 ml of dry THF were added to a Schlenk tube. This mixture was stirred and then 1 ml of diethyl muconate diluted in THF (1 mol. I-1, 1 mmol) was added. After 5 minutes, the reaction is halted by addition of a few drops of methanol. The analysis by1H NMR confirms the complete conversion of the monomers. A similar process is used for the polymerization of DtBuM in THF(to give PDtBuM2).
[0394] [Table 12]
[0395] .Polymerization _u_sjng ACS2_as anjnrtiatgr in THF _a_n_d_ P^tBu as_a catalyst:
[0396] Polymerizations were performed under an inert atmosphere and at room temperature (25 °C). For example, for PDEM9, 100 pL of an ACS2 solution in THF (100 mmol L“1, 10 pmol), 100 pL of P2-t-Bu in THF solution (10 mmol L“1, 1 pmol), and 3 mL of dry THF were added to a Schlenk flask. This mixture was stirred, then 1 mL of trans, trans diethyl Muconate diluted in THF (1 mol L“1, 1 mmol) was added. After 5 minutes, the reaction was quenched by adding a few drops of methanol.1H NMR analysis confirmed the complete conversion of the monomers. A similar procedure was used for the polymerization of the different monomers listed below in THF.
[0397] [Table 13]
[0398] Polymerization of DEM using ACS2 as an initiator in Me-THF and P2-tBu as a catalyst (PDEM10):
[0399] In a typical procedure, 100 pL of an ACS2 solution in Me-THF (100 mmol L-1, 10 pmol), 100 pL of P2-t-Bu in Me-THF solution (10 mmol L-1, 1 pmol), and 3 mL of dry Me-THF were introduced into a 10 mL Schlenk flask. The mixture was stirred for 1 minute, then 1 mL of DiethylMuconate (DEM, 1 mol L-1in Me-THF, 1 mmol) was added. After 5 minutes, the reaction was quenched by adding a few drops of methanol.1H NMR analysis confirmed the complete conversion of the monomer. Mn (g mol-1) = 30400, D = 1.13.
[0400] Bulk polymerization of DEM using ACS2 as an initiator and P4-t-Bu as a catalyst (PDEM11):
[0401] 500 pL of an ACS2 solution in THF (100 mmol L-1, 50 pmol) and 50 pL ofP4-t-Bu in THF solution (10 mmol L-1, 0.5 pmol) were introduced into a 10 mL Schlenk flask and stirred under an inert atmosphere. 1 g of trans, transdiethylMuconate (DEM) was previously melted by heating to 65 °C and then added to the initiator and catalyst mixture prepared above. After 5 minutes, the reaction was quenched by adding a few drops of methanol.1H NMR analysis confirmed the complete conversion of the monomer. Mn (g mol-1) = 38400, D = 1.51.
[0402] Bulk polymerization of DOM using ACS2 as an initiator and P4-t-Bu as a catalyst (PDOM5):
[0403] 300 pL of an ACS2 solution in THF (100 mmol L-1, 30 pmol) and 30 pL ofP4-t-Bu in THF solution (10 mmol L-1, 0.3 pmol) were introduced into a 10 mL Schlenk flask and stirred under an inert atmosphere. 1.1 g of trans, trans diOctylMuconate (DOM) was previously melted by heating to 65 °C and then added to the initiator and catalyst mixture prepared above. After 5 minutes, the reaction was quenched by adding a few drops of methanol.1H NMR analysis confirmed the complete conversion of the monomer. Mn (g mol-1) = 84800, D = 1.55. ) Synthesis of random copolymers:
[0404] [Chem. 46] KRT, 1 mln 3) MeOH
[0405] in which scheme: RT means that the reaction is at ambient temperature (20-30°C).
[0406] The same procedure as in the case of the preceding homopolymers is used, starting from SKA2. The polymerization yields are greater than 95%. The PDEMn-stat-PDOMm structures represent random copolymers, the theoretical DPnof which is n for DEM and m for DOM. As the consumption of the monomers is quantitative, this also represents the molar composition of the polymers.
[0407] [Table 14]5) Synthesis of block copolymers:
[0408] [Chem. 47]
[0409] in which scheme rt means that the reaction is at ambient temperature(20-30°C).
[0410] 5-1) Synthesis of PDEM5o-b-PDOM5o diblock in toluene using P4-t-Bu as catalyseur
[0411] For the first stage, the ratio respected is [DEM]o / [SKA2]o / [P4-f-Bu]o = 50 / 1 / 0.01.
[0412] 100 pl of SKA2 in solution in toluene (100 mmol. I-1, 10 pmol), 100 pl ofP4-t-Bu in solution in toluene (1 mmol. I-1, 0.1 pmol) and 3 ml of toluene are introduced into a 10 ml Schlenk tube. The mixture is stirred for 1 minute and then 0.5 ml of DEM diluted in toluene (1 mol. I-1, 0.5 mmol) is subsequently added. This mixture is stirred for 1 minute: the development of the reaction is evaluated by spectroscopy or spectrometry. 0.5 ml of DOM diluted in toluene (1 mol. I-1, 0.5 mmol) is subsequently added. The reaction medium is stirred and then the polymerization is halted by adding methanol. The structure of the polymer thus obtained is confirmed by spectroscopy or spectrometry and SEC (size extrusion chromatography) in THF (PMMA standard).
[0414] 5-2) Synthesis of PDOMm-b-PDtBuMso diblock
[0415] The diblock polymer was synthesized by again using the same process as for PDEM5o-b-PDOM5o but by polymerizing the DOM to obtain the 1stblock and by then adding the DtBuM for the 2ndblock.
[0416] [Table 15]
[0417] 5-1-2) Synthesis of diblock PDEM5o-b-PDOM5o in THF using P?-tBu as a catalyst (PDEM5o-b-PDOM5o (2))
[0418] In a 10 mL Schlenk flask, 100 pL of ACS2 in THF solution (100 mmol L“1; 10 pmol), 100 pL of P2-t-Bu in THF solution (10 mmol L“1; 1 pmol), and 3 mL of dry THF were introduced. The mixture was stirred with a magnetic stirring bar for 1 minute, then 0.5 mL of a trans, trans diethylMuconate solution (DEM at 1 mol L“1in THF, 0.5 mmol) was added. After stirring for 1 minute, a sample was taken, which demonstrated complete monomer consumption by1H NMR and the following mass distribution by SEC: Mn = 13,100 g mol-1, D = 1.19. To the thus-obtained PDEM reaction mixture, 0.5 mL of a dioctylMuconate solution (DOM at 1 mol L-1in THF, 0.5 mmol) was added. The mixture was stirred for an additional 5 minutes, then the reaction was quenched by adding a few drops of methanol.1H NMR analysis confirmed the complete consumption of DOM, and SEC analysis demonstrated the formation of a PDEM-b-PDOM diblock polymer with an Mn = 43,300 g mol-1and D = 1.16.
[0419] 5-3) Synthesis of PDtBuM5o-b-PDEM5o diblock
[0420] The diblock polymer was synthesized by again using the same process as for PDEMso-b-PDOMso but by polymerizing the DtBuM to obtain the 1stblock and by adding the DEM to obtain the 2ndblock.
[0421] [Table 16]
[0422] 5-4) Synthesis of a polyethyl sorbate-b-polydiethyl muconate diblock:PESm-b-PDEMso
[0423] The diblock polymer was synthesized by again using the same process as for PDEM5o-b-PDOM5o but by polymerizing the ethyl sorbate to obtain the first block with an [ES]0 / [SKA2]0 / [P4-f-Bu]0ratio = 50 / 1 / 0.01. The DEM is introduced for the 2ndblock using the same concentrations and the same volumes of monomers in toluene as in the 1ststage.
[0424] [Table 18]
[0425] 5-5) Synthesis of PDEMm-b-PDOMm-b-PDEMso triblock
[0426] The triblock polymer was synthesized by again using the same process as for the PDEM5o-b-PDOM5o diblock but by using a different ratio: [DEM]o / [SKA2]o / [P4-f-Bu]o = 50 / 1 / 0.01 , for the first stage.
[0427] After the polymerization of the 2ndDOM block, 50 equivalents of DEM are added using the same concentrations and the same volumes of monomers in toluene.
[0428] [Table 19]
[0429] 5-6) Synthesis of PMMA25-b-PDEM5o diblock
[0430] [Chem. 48]
[0431] in which scheme RT means that the reaction is at ambient temperature (20-30°C).
[0432] In a typical procedure, 100 pl of a solution of SKA1 (100 mmol.l-1in toluene, 10 pmol), 100 pl of P4-t-Bu in solution (1 mmol.l-1in toluene, 0.1 pmol) and 3 ml of dry toluene are introduced into a 10 ml Schlenk tube.
[0433] The medium is stirred for 1 minute and then 0.25 ml of methyl methacrylate (MMA) solution (1 mold-1in toluene, 0.25 mmol) is added. After stirring at ambient temperature for 1 h, 0.5 ml of diethyl muconate solution (DEM, 1 mold-1in toluene, 0.5 mmol) is added. The reaction medium is stirred for 1 minute and then the reaction is halted by addition of a few drops of methanol.
[0434] PMMA25: Mn: 4600 g / mol, £): 1.14
[0435] PMMA25-b-PDEM50: Mn: 87600 g / mol, £): 1.88
[0436] 5.7) Synthesis of PBA5o-b-PDEM5o diblock
[0437] [Chem. 49]
[0438] In a typical procedure, 100 pl of a solution of SKA1 (100 mmol.l-1in toluene, 10 pmol), 100 pl of P4-t-Bu in solution (1 mmol.l-1in toluene, 0.1 pmol) and 3 ml of dry toluene were introduced into a 10 ml Schlenk tube. The medium was stirred for 1 minute and then 0.25 ml of butyl acrylate (BA) solution (1 mold-1in toluene, 0.25 mmol) was added. After stirring at ambient temperature for 1 h, 0.5 ml of diethyl muconate solution (DEM, 1 mold-1in toluene, 0.5 mmol) was added. The reaction medium was stirred for 1 minute and then the reaction was halted by addition of a few drops of methanol.
[0439] PBA50: Mn: 9200 g / mol, £): 1.85
[0440] PBA5O-b-PDEM5o: Mn: 26600 g / mol, £): 3.06
[0441] 5.8) Synthesis of (PDOM-co-PDtBuM)-b-(PDOM-co-PDtBuM)-b-(PDOM- co-PDtBuM)-b-(PDOM-co-PDtBuM)-b-(PDOM-co-PDtBuM) or (PDOM-co- PDtBuM)5pentablock
[0442] 100 pl of SKA2 in solution in toluene (100 mmol.l-1, 10 pmol), 200 pl of P4- t-Bu in solution in toluene (1 mmol.l-1, 0.2 pmol) and 3 ml of toluene were introduced into a 25 ml Schlenk tube. The mixture was stirred for 1 minute and then a solution of 2.5 ml of a mixture of DOM and DtBuM monomers in toluene (DOM: 0.2 mold-1, 0.5 mmol; DtBuM: 0.2 mol.-1, 0.5 mmol) was subsequently added. This mixture was stirred for 3 minutes, at the end of which 200 pl of P4-t- Bu in solution in toluene (1 mmol.l-1, 0.2 pmol) were added, followed by a further solution of 2.5 ml of a mixture of DOM and DtBuM monomers in toluene (DOM: 0.2 mold-1, 0.5 mmol; DtBuM: 0.2 mold-1, 0.5 mmol). The medium is kept stirred for 3 min before the addition of the following block. The additions of P4-t-Bu and of solutions of monomers are repeated 3 additional times for a total of 5 blocks. 3 minutes after the addition of the last block, the polymerization is halted by adding two drops of methanol. The structure of the polymer thus obtained is confirmed by1H NMR and by SEC in THF (PMMA standard). The results of the molar masses obtained are compiled in the table below.
[0443] [Table 20]
[0444] 5.9) Synthesis of PDOM 25-b-PDEMso diblocks in isododecane or in an isododecane / toluene mixture
[0445] 100 l of SKA2 in solution in isododecane (100 mmol. I-1, 10 pmol), 100 pl of P4-t-Bu in solution in isododecane (1 mmol. I-1, 0.1 pmol) and 2 ml of isododecane were introduced into a 10 ml Schlenk tube. The mixture was stirred for 1 minute and then 1 ml of a solution of DOM monomer in isododecane (DOM: 0.25 mold-1, 0.25 mmol) was subsequently added. This mixture was stirred for 1 minute: the development of the reaction was monitored by1H NMR 4 ml of a solution of DEM monomer in isododecane (DEM: 0.125 mold-1, 0.5 mmol) are then added and the medium is kept stirred for 3 min. Cloudiness develops during the minute following the addition of the second block (PDEM). 3 minutes afterthe addition of the second block, the polymerization is halted by adding two drops of methanol. The structure of the polymer thus obtained is confirmed by1H NMR and SEC in THF (PM MA standard).
[0446] A similar reaction is carried out in an isododecane / toluene (90 / 10 v / v) mixture.
[0447] The results of the molar masses obtained are compiled in the table below:
[0448] [Table 21]6) Epoxidation of polymuconates:
[0449] [Chem. 50]
[0450] The experimental protocol below is applicable to all the unsaturated polymers described in the invention. 127 mg of PDtBuMI (M repeat motif = 254 g.mol-1, 0.5 mmol, 1 eq.), 5 ml of chloroform and 478 mg of m-chloroperbenzoic acid (2 mmol, 4 eq.) are introduced into a 25 ml Schlenk tube. The medium is subsequently heated at 60°C for 12 h. The reaction is monitored by spectrometry or spectroscopy. When the reaction is complete, 2 ml of a saturated sodium thiosulfate solution are added to the reaction medium, which is subsequently stirred for 10 minutes. The organic phase is washed with a saturated sodium bicarbonate solution and then a saturated sodium chloride solution before being dried over magnesium sulfate. The solvent is evaporated under vacuum in order to obtain a pale yellow polymer with a yield of greater than 80% (EPPDtBuMI).} Synthesis of sodium polvmuconates
[0451] 7-1) By alkaline hydrolysis starting from PDEM
[0452] In a typical process, 1.60 g of PDEM (number of units in moles = 8.07 mmol, Mn(unit) = 198.22 g / mol, 1 eq.), diluted in 20 ml of ethanol, are added to a round-bottomed flask equipped with a condenser. 16 ml of 2 mol / l aqueous NaOH solution (32.28 mmol, 4 eq.) are subsequently added to the medium. The mixture is brought to reflux for 1 h. An orange deposit is formed. The mixture is then concentrated under vacuum and is diluted with 100 ml of distilled water. The poly(sodium muconate) (PNaMu) solution is dialysed (membrane, size of the pores: 3.5 kDa) for one day. The solution is recovered and is evaporated under vacuum. The polymer obtained is a translucent orange solid. Yield by weight: 85.6%
[0453] PDEM1 , PDEM2 and PDEM3 are thus hydrolysed to give respectively PMCOO1 , PMCOO2 and PMCOO3 of increasing molecular weight.
[0454] 7-2) By selective acid hydrolysis of a PDOMso-stat-PDtBuMso:
[0455] [Chem. 51]200 mg of PDOMso-stat-PDtBuMso (MotBuM unit = 254 g.mol’1, 0.5 mmol, 1 eq.) are introduced into a 25 ml Schlenk tube and then 2 ml of acetic acid and 0.5 ml of trifluoroacetic acid are added. The medium is stirred at ambient temperature: the disappearance of the peak characteristic of the t-Bu group is monitored by spectroscopy or spectrometry. At the end of 6 h, the reaction is complete and a random polymer containing DOM units and muconic acid MCOOH units is obtained: PDOM5o-stat-PMCOOH5o. ) Dihydroxylation and hydrolysis of polymuconates
[0456] [Chem. 52]COOEt „ COOtBu TFA / Formic acid COO OH COONaEPPDtBuMI PMNadlOHIn a protocol applicable to all the epoxidized polymers described in the invention, 135 mg of EPPDtBuMI (repeat unit = 270 g.mol-1, 0.5 mmol, 1 eq.), 4 ml of formic acid and 1 ml of trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) were introduced into a 10 ml test tube. The medium was subsequently stirred at ambient temperaturefor 4 h. The reaction was monitored by spectrometry or spectroscopy. When the reaction was complete, the excess acid was evaporated under high vacuum. 10 ml of an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution (10 ml, 0.1M, 1 mmol) were added to the medium. The solvent was evaporated under vacuum in order to obtain an orangey / yellow polymer with a yield of greater than 80% (PMNadiOH).9) Crosslinking protocol
[0457] [Chem. 53]
[0458] In a typical procedure for the chemical crosslinking of 10% of the acid units of PMCOO in water, 50 mg of PMCOO (number of units in moles = 0.269 mmol, 186 g / mol per unit, 1 eq.) are diluted in 1 ml of distilled water in a flask containing a magnetic stirrer. The mixture is homogenized for 5 minutes. 269 pl of a 0.1 mol / l solution of ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether (EGDE) in THF (26.9 pmol, 0.1 eq.) are added to the mixture. The medium is then placed in an ovenat 150°C for 1 h. The polymer, thus crosslinked, corresponds to an opaque orange solid. The residue obtained is subsequently mixed with 5 ml of distilled water in order to obtain a gel. This crosslinked polymer gel is analysed Theologically.
[0459] The following gels were produced starting from the polymers PMCOO1 , PMCOO2 and PMCOO3 using different proportions of difunctional crosslinking agents, such as EGDE, or trifunctional crosslinking agents, such as trimethylolpropane triglycidyl ether (TPTE).
[0460] [Table 22]
[0465] a) the percentage indicated corresponds to the molar percentage of epoxide functions with respect to the muconic acid units in the starting polymer
[0466] Other types of crosslinking agents were used: hexamethylenediamine (HMD), triethylene glycol (TEG), sorbitol (S) and citric acid (CA), according to the protocol described above.
[0467] [Table 25]
[0468] a) the percentage indicated corresponds to the molar percentage of reactive functions with respect to the muconic acid units in the starting polymer ) Protocol for degradation by ozonolysis of DEM and synthesis of dicarboxylic acid-diester
[0469] [Chem 54]
[0470] 50 ml of a solution of PDEM5 in methanol (20 g.l-1, 1 g) was charged to a250 ml round-bottomed flask containing a magnetic stirrer bar. The mixture was cooled in an ice bath in order to limit the evaporation of the solvent. A glass pipette, connected to an ozone generator (model: C-L010-DT), was used to inject gas at a rate of 5 I. min-1. (Theoretical ozone concentration: 2 mg. I-1). The medium was left under ozonolysis for 1 h. The solvent was subsequently evaporated at low temperature (< 30°C) on a rotary evaporator. The product obtained (a colourless oil) was subsequently dispersed in 50 ml of demineralized water. 10 ml of a 30% by weight aqueous H2O2solution and 0.5 ml of 98% H2SO4were added to the medium. The reaction was maintained at reflux (100°C) for 30 min. The medium was subsequently extracted in a separating funnel with 3 x 15 ml of diethyl ether. The organic phase was subsequently neutralized and extracted with 10 ml of saturated sodium bicarbonate solution and then extracted twice with 15 ml of demineralized water. The basic aqueous phase recovered was neutralized by dropwise addition of a 1 M hydrochloric acid solution until a solution with a pH of less than 4 was obtained. This acidic aqueous solution was extracted with 3 x 15 ml of diethyl ether in order to extract the product of interest therefrom. The solvent was evaporated on a rotary evaporator and the product obtained (a transparent oil) was purified on a silica column with an eluent composed of a dichloromethane / acetic acid (95 / 5 v / v) mixture. The structure of the recovered product was confirmed by1H and13C NMR. ) Tightening effect: with regard to PMCOO3
[0471] This test consists in comparing, in vitro, the tightening power of the polymer to be evaluated, with respect to a reference tightening polymer: Hybridur® 875 polymer dispersion from Air Products (40% by weight aqueous dispersion of particles of an interpenetrated network of polyurethane and acrylic polymers). The polymer to be evaluated was deposited on a nitrile rubber strip cut from a glove sold under the reference Safeskin Nitrile Critical No. 038846 by Dominique Dutscher SA, with a surface area of 3.5 cm2, stretched taut beforehand on a support. A solution containing the polymer to be evaluated is thus deposited on the elastomer strip, by depositing 1 .8 mg (as dry matter) of polymer.
[0472] 26 pl of an aqueous solution containing 7% AM of Hybridur® 875 polymer were thus deposited on a nitrile rubber strip, in order to thus obtain a reference tightening strip, and 26 pl of a solution containing 7% AM of PMCOO3 in water was deposited on another strip.
[0473] After drying at 70°C for 24 hours, the curving (retraction) of the strip treated with the acrylic polymer is observed in comparison with that obtained with the control (Hybridur® 875).
[0474] [Table 26]2) Serum containing a tightening agent
[0475] The anti-wrinkle serum composition below was prepared:
[0476] [Table 27]3) Tightening cream
[0477] The anti-wrinkle cream composition (O / W emulsion) below was prepared by mixing the phases A + B + C:
[0478] Phase A:
[0479] [Table 28]
[0480] Phase B:
[0481] [Table 29]il l
[0482] Phase C:
[0483] [Table 30]
[0484] Procedure:
[0485] The constituents of phase B, except for the thickener, are heated to 75°C and the thickener is subsequently incorporated therein; stirring is carried out until a homogeneous gel is obtained.
[0486] Phase A is heated to approximately 75°C and then the emulsion is produced by incorporating phase A in phase B.
[0487] Finally, at 40-45°C, phase C is incorporated and stirring is maintained until cooling is complete.
[0488] The composition obtained, applied to the face, makes it possible to effectively smooth out wrinkles. 4) Resistance to water, oil and sebum of polvmuconate deposits
[0489] A formulation of the polymers of the invention is applied to a support of Bioskin type, a support made of elastomer which simulates skin and consisting of a polyurethane elastomer reinforced with elastane (a particular polyurethane) (manufacturer Beaulax, Japan). This formulation is left to dry at ambient temperature for 24 h before evaluating the resistance of the deposit obtained in the following way:
[0490] Deposit of 50 pl of olive oil or of sebum or of water.
[0491] After 5 minutes of contact, a cotton wad is wiped over 15 times and observation of the degradation of the deposit is carried out.
[0492] The formulation applied to the support of Bioskin type always exhibits the following composition.
[0493] [Table 31]
[0494] The resistance is evaluated according to the following scale:+++ : no attack on the deposit, which is as it was originally++ : a small amount of transfer but the deposit is as it was originally+ : the deposit has slightly deteriorated and a small amount of transfer is observedTwo compositions (one in aqueous / alcoholic medium and the other in anhydrous oily medium) were prepared from the composition of Table 17, expressed in g / 100 g of composition; their resistances to water, to oil and to sebum were evaluated as described in Fig. 1 (in which Fig. 1 PDEM300 = PDEM3). It is noted, in this figure, that the colour (red) is not transferred onto the cotton wads, which is characteristic of a very good wear property with regard to the various aggressors (water, sebum, oil).
[0495] The results have been recorded in the table below.
[0496] [Table 32]
[0497] It is apparent that the films obtained from the compositions comprising a polymer according to the invention (PDEM3, PDOM3) make it possible to obtain, after application to keratin materials, an excellent resistance with regard to water and oil and a good resistance to sebum.15) Polymerization of DEM using ACS2 as an initiator and TBAF as a catalyst:
[0498] Polymerizations were performed under an inert atmosphere and at room temperature (25 °C). In a 10 mL Schlenk flask, 100 pL of ACS2 in THF solution (100 mmol L-1; 10 pmol), 50 pL of TBAF in THF solution (10 mmol L-1; 0.5 pmol), and 2 mL of THF were introduced. The mixture was stirred for 1 minute, then 1 mL of DEM dissolved in THF (1 mol L“1, 1 mmol) was subsequently added. This mixture was stirred for 5 minutes; the reaction progress was monitored by spectroscopy or spectrometry, then the polymerization was quenched by adding methanol. The structure of the polymer thus obtained was confirmed by spectroscopy or spectrometry and SEC in THF (PMMA standard).
[0499] The solvents were then evaporated, and the polymer was redissolved in THF before being precipitated in n-pentane to obtain PDEM. Yields obtained were > 95%.For all polymers listed in Table 33, 0.1 mL of 100 mmol L1ACS2 solution was used.
Claims
CLAIMS1. Cosmetic use, a) of one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or of one or more copolymer(s) a2) or of a composition containing it / them, for the treatment of keratin materials, said homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising: i) several repeat units chosen from the following units (A) and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates:unit (A) in which polymeric units (A):• Ri represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, or a -C(O)-OR'4 group;• R2and R3, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group;R2and R3together form a bond; or elseR2and R3together form a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, heterocycle comprising at least one oxygen atom and comprising from 3 to 6 ring members;• R4 and R'4, which are identical or different, represent: i) a hydrogen atom, ii) a cationic counterion M+, preferably an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or ammonium cation, iii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, or aromatic or nonaromatic, cyclic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 140 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms; preferably, said hydrocarbon group is saturated linear or branched acyclic, or cyclic; said hydrocarbon group additionally being: o optionally substituted by one or more (di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino groups; and / or o optionally interrupted by one or more a') heteroatoms, such as O, S, N(Ra), and Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O)rwith r having the value 1 , 2 or 3, carbonyl, c') or the combinations of a') with b'),o such as -C(0)-0-, -0-C(0)-, amide -C(O)-N(Ra)-, N(Ra)-C(O)-, urethane -N(Ra)-C(O)-O- or -O-C(O)-N(Ra)-, urea -N(Ra)-(CO)-N(Rb)-, carbonate -O-C(O)-O-, -[O-Si(Rb)(Rc)]p- or -[(CRa2)q-O]p- with q an integer of between 1 and 4; o with p of between 1 and 200, in which Ra, Rband Rc, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group; in particular, Rarepresents a hydrogen atom and Rband Rc, being as defined above, preferably represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl; it being understood that:- when R2(and / or R3) represent(s) a hydroxyl radical and R4represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion M+(and / or R'4), then R2and the -C(O)- OR4group (and / or R3and the -C(O)-OR' group) can together form a 5-membered or 6-membered heterocycle; and- when the R4and / or R'4radical represents a cationic counterion, then the oxygen atom of the -OR4 and / or -OR'4 group will be in its anionic form -O-; and- the R1 radicals of the different units (A), the R2radicals of the different units (A), the R3radicals of the different units (A), the R4 radicals of the different units (A) and the R'4radicals of the different units (A) can be identical or different.
2. Use according to the preceding claim, for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials, in particular for thickening cosmetic compositions in particular intended to dye keratin fibres and / or for the shaping of keratin fibres, such as head hair, or for making up the skin and / or for carrying out the care of the skin and / or for forming a film at the surface of the keratin material(s), in particular persistent towards external attacks, such as water or fatty substances, such as oil and / or sebum.
3. Use according to Claim 1 or 2 of one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or of one or more copolymer(s) a2), said homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising: ii) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined in the preceding claim, and iii) one or more unit(s) chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) as defined below or their mixtures, and also their optical or geometrical isomers, their organic or inorganic acid or base salts, and their solvates, such as hydrates:in which formulae (A1) to (A15) R1 , R2, R3 and R4 are as defined for Ri, R2, R3 and R4respectively of the units (A), it additionally being possible for R2 and R3 together to form a bond or else it being possible for R2 and R3 together to form a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, heterocycle comprising at least one oxygen atom and comprising from 3 to 6 ring members, preferably having 3 ring members, such as epoxy;X represents an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or an amino group N(Ra) with Rarepresenting a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group;RET, which are identical or different, represent a group resulting from the crosslinking of one or more reactive group(s) of at least one unit (A), preferably of one or more hydroxyl group(s) and / or of one or more -C(O)- OR'4and / or -C(O)-OR4group(s) of at least one unit (A), with one or more crosslinking agent(s); andrepresents the point of attachment of the group to the remainder of the molecule; it being understood that the R1, R2, R3, R4, R'4and R1 , R2, R3 and R4 radicals of the different units (A), (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and / or (A15) can be identical or different.
4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the unit(s) (A) are such that Ri represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl.
5. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the units (A) are such that Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group with R'4, which are identical or different, representing i) a hydrogen atom, ii) a cationic counterion M+, preferably an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or ammonium cation, or iii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, non-cyclic, or saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, cyclic, hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms; preferably, said hydrocarbon chain is saturated linear or branched acyclic, or cyclic; said hydrocarbon chain additionally being: o optionally substituted by one or more (di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)amino groups; and / or o optionally interrupted by one or more a') heteroatoms, such as O, S, N(Ra), and Si(Rb)(Rc), b') S(O)r, carbonyl, c') or the combinations of a') with b'), such as -C(O)-O-, -O-C(O)-, amide -C(O)-N(Ra)-, N(Ra)-C(O)-, urethane -N(Ra)-C(O)-O- or -O-C(O)-N(Ra)-, urea -N(Ra)-(CO)-N(Rb)-, carbonate -O-C(O)-O-, -[O-Si(Rb)(Rc)]P- or -[(CRa2)q-O]p- with q an integer of between 1 and 4; with p of between 1 and 200, with r having the value 1 or 2, Ra, Rband Rc, which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group; in particular, Rarepresents a hydrogen atom and Rband Rc, being as defined above, preferably represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl.
6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the units (A) are such that R2and R3, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, it being understood that R2and R3cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; preferably, R2and R3represent a hydroxyl group; more particularly precisely, the polymeric units (A) are polymeric units (B) of following formula:in which formula (B) Ri and R4are as defined in any one of the preceding claims; in particular, the polymeric units (B) are such that R4represents a hydrogen atom or an M+representing a cationic counterion, preferably an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium cation or a primary, secondary or tertiary (Ci- C8)alkylamine which can comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and can comprise several alcohol functions, it being understood that at least one of the nitrogen atoms is protonated by a hydrogen atom so as to form an ammonium, it being understood that each of these amines is protonated; said units (B) can then be found in the form of a cyclized polymeric unit (B1), in particular in an acidic medium:and, when Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4, in particular carboxyl, or carboxylate - C(O)OM, group, then the polymeric units are (B'):it being possible for said polymeric units (B') to cyclize, in particular in an acidic medium, to result in the bicyclic units (B'1):(B') (B'1)1. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the units (A) are such that R2and R3together form a bond; more particularly, the polymeric units (A) are polymeric units (C):and also their optical or geometrical isomers and solvates, such as hydrates; in which formula (C) Ri and R4are as defined in Claim 1 or Claim 3; in particular, the polymeric units (C) are such that Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4, in particular carboxyl, or carboxylate -C(O)OM, group with M representing M+as defined above; then the polymeric units are (C):(C) Formula (C) with R4and R'4, which are identical or different, preferably identical, as defined in Claim 1 or Claim 3.
8. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the units (A) are such that R2and R3together form a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, heterocycle comprising at least one oxygen atom and comprising from 3 to 6ring members, preferably having 3 ring members, such as epoxy; in particular, the polymeric units (A) are polymeric units (D) and also their optical isomers and solvates, such as hydrates;in which formula (D) Ri and R4are as defined in Claim 1 or Claim 3; in particular, the polymeric units (D) are such that Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4, in particular carboxyl, or -C(O)OM, group; then the polymeric units are (D'):Formula (D1) with R4and R'4, which are identical or different, preferably identical, as defined above.
9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the units (A) and optionally ii) one or more unit(s) (A1) to (A15) or their mixtures as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 3 to 8 additionally comprise(s) iii) one or more unit(s) resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) chosen from i) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylate, and / or ii) (Ci-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylamide, preferably (C5-C22)(cyclo)alkyl (meth)acrylamide (called copolymer X).
10. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, in which the units (A) and optionally ii) one or more unit(s) (A1) to (A15) or their mixtures as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 3 to 8 additionally comprise(s) iii) one or more unit(s) resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) chosen from the monomers of following formula (II): H2C=C(R6)-C(O)-E-R5, in which formula (II) E represents an oxygen atom or N(R), preferably E represents an oxygen atom, with R representing a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C4)alkyl group, suchas methyl, R6represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, and R5represents: o a linear or branched (Ci-C22)alkyl, preferably (Ci-C2o)alkyl, more preferentially (Ci-Cio)alkyl, group optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms; preferably, R5represents methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl, t-butyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, 2-ethylhexyl, n-octyl, isooctyl, n-decyl, stearyl, methoxyethyl, ethoxyethyl and methoxypropyl, isodecyl, lauryl or hexadecyl, more preferentially methyl, or else o a (C5-C22)cycloalkyl, preferably (C5-C2o)cycloalkyl, group, in particular cyclohexyl, norbornyl or isobornyl, preferably isobornyl, or o else an aryl or aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as benzyl; more preferentially iii) chosen from the monomers of following formula (II'): H2C=C(R6)-C(O)-O-R5(II') with R5representing a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl group, such as methyl, and R6representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl.
11. Use according to Claim 9 or 10, in which the units (A) are such that the copolymers a2) can be hydrolysed, resulting in a copolymer additionally comprising polymeric units of following formula (III):in which formula (III) Re is as defined in the preceding claim in the formula (II) or (II') and A represents a hydroxyl, amino or O M+group with M+representing a cationic counterion.
12. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the homopolymer(s) a1) and / orthe copolymer(s) a2) additionally comprise ii) one or more unit(s) (A1) to (A15) as defined in Claim 3, where RET represents a group resulting from the crosslinking of at least one hydroxyl group and / or of at least one -C(O)-OR'4and / or -C(O)-OR4group of a unit (A) with at least one crosslinking agent chosen from:1) organic compounds comprising at least 2 heterocyclic groups comprising from 3 to 10 ring members (preferably 3 ring members) and from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, such as O, S or N, and / or from 1 to 3 carbonyl groups, preferably epoxide or aziridine; or2) organic compounds comprising at least 1 electron-donating group, such as a primary amine or secondary amine group, such as amino, preferably at least 2 electron-donating groups, such as hydroxyl or thiol; and- 3) (in)organic compounds comprising at least one phosphorus-based group - OP(O)(OH)2, -OP(O)(O M+)2, -P(O)(OH)2or -P(O)(O M+)2with M+as defined in Claim 1 or Claim 3.
13. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the homopolymer(s) a1) and / orthe copolymer(s) a2) additionally comprise ii) one or more unit(s) (A1) to (A15) as defined in Claim 3, where RET results from the crosslinking of at least one hydroxyl group and / or of at least one -C(O)-OR'4and / or -C(O)-OR4group of a unit (A) with at least one crosslinking agent chosen from (S'), b-1), b- 2), b-3), b-4), b-5), b-6), b-7) and b-8) and their mixture: formula (S'):in which formula (S'):- Core represents a polymeric or non-polymeric polyvalent radical; in particular, Core represents:• either i) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, acyclic, or saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, cyclic, polyvalent hydrocarbon group comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, particularly from 3 to 36 carbon atoms, it being possible for said hydrocarbon group a) to be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or silicon atoms or -[O-Si(Rb)(Rc)]P- with Rb and Rcas defined above and p of between 1 and 200, carbonyl -C(O)- or their combinations, such as ester -C(O)-O-, -O- C(O)-, amide -C(O)-N(R')-, -N(R')-C(O)-, urethane -N(R')-C(O)-O- or-O-C(O)- N(R')-, urea -N(R')-(CO)-N(R')- or carbonate -O-C(O)-O-, in which R’ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;• or ii) an organic polymer, preferably chosen from an ethylenic homopolymer or ethylenic copolymer;• or iii) an inorganic polymer; or• or iv) a hybrid polymer; it being understood that the core in its polymer form ii), iii) or iv) can be dendrimeric or hyperbranched; and n, m and p, which are identical or different, represent an integer preferably of between 0 and 10, more preferentially between 0 and 5, it being understood that the sum of m + n + p is greater than or equal to 2, preferably of between 2 and 10; b-1) Crosslinking agent comprising at least 2 epoxide functions: particularly from the epoxidized crosslinking agents of formula (E) below:(E) in which formula (E): n represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably of between 2 and 10, more preferentially between 3 and 5;- Core is as defined above in the formula (S'); preferentially, the crosslinking agents are of formula (E) and such that Core represents a saturated, linear or branched, acyclic, polyvalent (particularly divalent or trivalent) hydrocarbon group comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, better still from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen, and n is as defined above, preferably has the value 2 or 3; and more particularly ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether (EDGE) and trimethylolpropane triglycidyl ether (TPTE); b-2) Crosslinking agent containing at least 1 amine function: particularly chosen from the aminated crosslinking agents of formula (F) below:in which formula (F) n and Core are as defined above for (E) and R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl group optionally substituted by an aryl group or several aryl groups, such as phenyl; the aminated crosslinking agent(s) is(are) preferably chosen from non-polymeric aminated compounds,such as ethylenediamine, lysine, glutamic acid, glutamine, cysteine, aminated polyethers or 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES); particularly chosen from: (G), (H), (I) or (J):H2N-ALK-Si(Re)(Rf)-O[Si(R'e)(R'f)O-]u-Si(Re)(Rf)-ALK'-NH2(G)Re-Si(Re)(Rf)-O[Si(R'e)(R'f)O-]v-[Si(R'e)(ALK-NH2)-O]w-Si(Re)(Rf)2(H)H2N-ALK-Si(Re)(Rf)-O[Si(R'e)(R'f)O-]x-Si(Re)(Rf)-ALK'-H (I)Rg-Si(Re)(Rf)-O[Si(R'e)(R'f)O-]y-[Si(R'e)(ALK"-NH-ALK'"-NH2)-O]z-Si(Re)(Rf)-R'g (J) in which formulae (G), (H), (I) or (J):- ALK and ALK', which are identical or different, preferably identical, represent a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, such as propylene;- ALK" represents a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene group, preferably a (Ci- C4)alkylene group, such as propylene;- ALK'" represents a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkylene group, preferably a (Ci- C4)alkylene group, such as ethylene;Re, Rf, R'eand R'f, which are identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl;R'e, Rgand R'g, which are identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or (Ci- C4)alkyl group; u represents an integer greater than or equal to 2; preferably, u represents an integer so that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is of between 500 and 55 000 approximately;- v and w represent an integer and are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is of between 50 and 3000 approximately; y and z represent an integer and are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is of between 5000 and 500 000 approximately; b-3) Crosslinking agent containing at least 2 carboxyl(ate) functions: particularly chosen from the polycarboxylated crosslinking agents of formula (K) below, and also its organic or inorganic base salts:in which formule (K) n and Core are as defined above for (E); b-4) Crosslinking agent containing at least 2 aziridine functions: particularly chosen from organic crosslinking agents comprising at least 2 aziridine groups optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups, such as methyl, and more particularly from the polyaziridine crosslinking agent(s) of formulae (L) or (M) below:in which formulae (L) and (M) n and Core are as defined above for (E); b-5) Mixed crosslinking agents containing at least 2 functions, including at least one aziridine and at least one epoxide: particularly chosen from the mixed crosslinking agents of formula (N) below:in which formula (N): n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably of between 1 and 10;- o and p, which are identical or different, represent an integer of between 0 and 10, more preferentially between 0 and 5, it being understood that the sum of o + p is an integer greater than or equal to 1 and preferably the sum n + o + p is an integer of between 2 and 10;- Core is as defined above for (S'); b-6) Crosslinking agent containing at least 2 hydroxyl functions: particularly chosen from organic crosslinking agents comprising at least 2 hydroxyl groups and more particularly from polyhydroxylated crosslinking agents chosen from those of following formula (O):((O) in which formula (O) n and Core are as defined above for (E); b-7) Crosslinking agent containing at least 2 thiol functions: particularly chosen from organic crosslinking agents comprising at least 2 thiol groups and more particularly from polythiolated crosslinking agents chosen from those of following formula (P):(P) in which formula (P) n and Core are as defined above for (E); the polythiolated crosslinking agents are more particularly chosen from pentaerythritol tetra(3- mercaptopropionate) or trimethylolpropane tris(3-mercaptopropionate); and b-8) Phosphorus-based (in)organic crosslinking agent: particularly chosen from phosphorus-based (in)organic crosslinking agents, more particularly alkali metal or alkaline earth metal tri(Ci-C6)alkyl phosphates, such as alkali metal or alkaline earth metal (sodium) trimetaphosphates, and other phosphorus-based esters; preferentially chosen from (S'), (E), (F), (G), (H), (I), (J), (K), (L), (M), (N), (O) and (P) as defined above, more preferentially chosen from (S'), (E), (F), (K) and (O).
14. Composition CP, in particular cosmetic composition, which contains: a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) which comprises(s) i) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) and optionally ii) one or more unit(s) (A1) to (A15) or their mixtures as defined in any one of the preceding claims, and optionally iii) one or more units resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s), i), ii) and iii) being as defined in any one of the preceding claims; and b) optionally one or more crosslinking agent(s), in particular as defined in Claim 12 or 13; it being understood that, when the composition CP does not comprise a crosslinking agent and / or comprises neither a unit (A1) to (A15) nor a unit resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) as defined in the preceding claim and when, in the units (A), the R2and R3radicalstogether form a bond, then the composition additionally comprises iv) one or more compound(s) chosen from c) fatty substances, which are preferably liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, chosen in particular from volatile oils, d) dyes, e) pigments, f) active agents for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, g) UV (A) and / or (B) screening agents, and h) their c) to g) mixtures, preferentially chosen from c), d) and e).
15. Polymer chosen from following 1) to 5):1) random, block or gradient copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) several identical repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 4 to 8; optionally ii) one or more unit(s) chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) or their mixtures as defined in Claim 3, and / or optionally iii) one or more unit(s) resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) as defined in Claims 9 to 11 , it being understood that said copolymers comprise ii) and / or iii);2) random, block or gradient copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) at least two different repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 4 to 8, and optionally ii) one or more unit(s) chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) and their mixtures as defined in Claim 3, and optionally iii) one or more units resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) as defined in Claims 9 to 11 ;3) homopolymers a1) comprising units (A) for which Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group and R2and R3together form a bond and R4and R'4, which are preferably identical, represent a linear or branched (C3-C3)alkyl group other than isopropyl, n- butyl and 2-ethylhexyl, such as t-butyl or n-octyl, or a (C3-Cio)cycloalkyl group other than cyclohexyl, such as isobornyl, said homopolymers additionally being other than cis-cis-di-n-octyl muconate;4) homopolymers a1) comprising units (A) for which Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group and R2and R3together form a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, heterocycle comprising at least one oxygen atom and comprising from 3 to 6 ring members, preferably having 3 ring members, such as epoxy, and R4and R'4, which are preferably identical, are as defined above;5) homopolymers a1) comprising units (A) for which R2and R3, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, it being understood that R2and R3cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom; preferably, R2and R3represent a hydroxyl group.
16. Polymer according to the preceding claim chosen from following 1) to 5) wherein the polymer is selected from 2) random, block, or gradient copolymer a2) comprising i) at least two different repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 4 to 8, and optionally ii) one or more units chosen from the units (A1), (A2), (A3), (A4), (A5), (A6), (A7), (A8), (A9), (A10), (A11), (A12), (A13), (A14) and (A15) and their mixtures as defined in Claim 3, and optionally iii) one or more units resulting from the polymerization of one or more additional monomer(s) as defined in Claims 9 to 11 , the said copolymer a2) being predominantly non-crystalline i.e. it comprises a proportion of crystalline regions less than 50%; particularly, the said polymer is selected from 2) random, block, or gradient copolymer(s) a2) comprise a proportion of crystalline regions less than or equal to 40%, more particularly less than or equal to 30%, preferentially less than or equal to 20%, more preferably less than or equal to 10%, even better less than or equal to 5% even better less than or equal to 2%.
17. Polymer according to the claim 15 or 16, chosen from those of formulae (E'), (F), (G), (H), (J) and (K) and also their Z / E geometrical isomers and the solvates, such as hydrates:in which formula (E'):• Rio represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl,• R represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion, a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as n-octyl or t-butyl, or a cycloalkyl group, such as isobornyl; and• n is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferentially of between 1000 and 5, more preferentially between 500 and 5 and more preferentially still between 300 and 5;in which formula (F):• Rio represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl;• Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as n-octyl or t-butyl;• R12, which is different from Rn, represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl or t-butyl, and u and v represent the molar percentage of each randomly distributed repeat unit;• the final degree of polymerization of the polymer is of between 1000 and 5, more preferentially between 500 and 5 and more preferentially still between 300 and 5;in which formula (G):• Rio represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl;• Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion or a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as n-octyl;• Ri2, which is different from Rn, represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl or tert-butyl;• and w and x are the molar percentage of each repeat unit distributed in block fashion;• preferentially, the final degree of polymerization of the polymer is of between 1000 and 5, more preferentially between 500 and 5 and more preferentially still between 300 and 5;in which formula (H) Rio, Rn and R12 are as defined above, in particularRio and Rn are identical and preferably represent an ethyl;R12 represents an octyl;R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a cationic counterion or a linear or branched (Ci- Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl; the final degree of polymerization of the polymer (H) is of between 1000 and 1 , more preferentially between 500 and 3 and more preferentially still between 300 and 5;in which formula (J):• R10 represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl;• R11 represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl;• R12 represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl;• and w and x are the molar percentage of each repeat unit distributed in block fashion; andpreferably, the final degree of polymerization of the polymer (H) is of between 1000 and 1 , more preferentially between 500 and 3 and more preferentially still between 300 and 5;in which formula (K):• R10 represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as methyl;• R'10 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl;• R11 represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as methyl or butyl;• R12 represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group, such as ethyl, and w and x are the molar percentage of each repeat unit distributed in block fashion; and• preferably, the final degree of polymerization of the polymer (K) is of between 1000 and 1 , more preferentially between 500 and 3 and more preferentially still between 300 and 5.
18. Polymer according to any one of Claims 15 to 17, chosen from those of formulae A1-1 to A1-4 and A2-1 to A2-9 and also their Z / E geometrical isomers and the solvates, such as hydrates:A1-119. Process for the preparation of the polymer as defined in any one of Claims 15 to18, comprising the following stages i) to iii) according to Scheme 1 :in which Scheme 1 the double bonds of the compounds (l-C), (C), (D), (D-1) and (B) can be of Z or E configuration and (D-1) can be in the form of a salt, preferably of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, such as sodium or potassium; in which process route i) represents the polymerization of diene (l-C) and also its Z / Z, Z / E, E / Z or E / E geometrical isomers, preferably in the presence of catalyst(s) and / or initiator(s) (radical initiators), in an in particular organic, preferably aprotic, solvent, at a temperature of less than or equal to 120°C, in order to result in the polymer(s) (C) according to the following Scheme 2:in which Scheme 2 the compound (l-C) and polymer (C) contain Ri and R4radicals which are as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 8; preferentially, the polymerization by route i) is carried out by group transfer (GTP) according to a repetition of " Mukaiyama / Michael" reactions, and is preferably "initiated" by one or more initiator(s) as defined below, in particular by one or more compounds of silylated ketene acetal (SKA) type of general structure (a), which are added to unsaturated monomers of "Michael acceptor" type, preferably in the presence of one or more catalyst(s) of Lewis acid or base type, and preferably using an aprotic solvent; the preferred initiator / catalyst / monomer / solvent mixture with an initiator / catalyst molar ratio which is of between 10 000 and 5, more preferentially between 1000 and 10 and more preferentially still between 100 and 15; preferentially, the catalyst(s) is(are) chosen from Lewis acids and bases and particularly from:- carbenes; phosphazenes and Verkade’s bases, more especially phosphazene; nitrogenous bases; phosphines;Lewis acids derived from boron or sulfur; and- quaternary ammoniums; preferably phosphazenes, such as 1-tert-butyl-4,4,4-tris(dimethylamino)-2,2- bis[tris(dimethylamino)phosphoranylidenamino]-2A5,4A5-catenadi(phosphazene) (t-Bu- P4or P4-t-Bu or phosphazene-P4 base), or 1-tert-butyl-2,2,4,4,4- pentakis(dimethylamino)-2A5,4A5-catenadi(phosphazene) (t-Bu-P2or P2-t-Bu or phosphazene-P2 base);more preferentially phosphazenes are 4A5- catenadi(phosphazene) or t-Bu-P4of following formula:t-Bu-P4; preferably, the initiator(s) is(are) chosen from silylated ketene acetals (SKA) of general structure (a) and also its E / Z geometrical isomers and initiators of formula (b) and also its E / Z geometrical isomers:in which formula (a):- Pi and P4, which are identical or different, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl or ethyl; andP2 and P3, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, such as methyl, or a (C2-Ci2)alkenyl group, such as vinyl -CH=CH2; preferably, P2and P3are different; more preferentially, P2is a hydrogen atom and P3represents a (C2- Ci2)alkenyl group, such as vinyl -CH=CH2; following formula (b) and also its Z / E geometric isomers:in which formula (b):Pi, P3, P4 and n are as defined above; and- Core is as defined in Claim 13; preferably, the solvent(s) is(are) chosen from: polar aprotic solvents, in particular halo(Ci-C6)alkanes, such as dichloromethane, heterocycles, such as tetrahydrofuran (THF) or (Ci-C6)alkyl substituted THF such as methyl-THF, (Ci-C4)alkylnitriles, such as acetonitrile, or esters of C1-C12 alkanols and of C1-C12 carboxylic acids, such as ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, isopropyl myristate or isononyl isononanoate; and non-polar aprotic solvents, in particular aromatics, such as toluene, xylene or anisole, and linear or branched C8to C20 alkanes, such as isododecane or Parleam; in particular, the polymerization is carried out at a temperature of between -80°C and +100°C, preferentially from 0°C to 100°C and more preferentially from 0°C to 50°C; in order to terminate the polymerization of route i), one or more nucleophilic compound(s) or polar protic solvent(s) are added, such as water, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, preferably aromatic, carboxylic acids, or alcohols and polyols, in particular (Ci-Ce) alkanols, preferably methanol, ethanol or benzoic acid; the copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined of diblock type is(are) prepared by polymerization employing a first monomer and one or more monofunctional initiators, in particular of formula fa}, to polymerize a first monomer, then, once this monomer has been "consumed", a second monomer different from the first is added; the copolymer(s) a2) comprising several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined above of triblock or multiblock type, preferably in the presence of initiators of formula fa} or (b), and the various monomers of interest are added sequentially; in which process route ii) of epoxidation of said polymer(s) (C) is carried out in an in particular organic, preferably aprotic, solvent, at a temperature of less than or equal to 120°C, to result in the epoxidized polymer(s) (D), according to the following Scheme (3):in which Scheme 3 the polymers (C) and (D) contain Ri and R4radicals which are as defined above; the epoxidation ii) is preferably carried out with one or more oxidizing agent(s) chosen from molecular oxygen O2, peroxides, such as H2O2, peracids, in particular aromatic peracids, such as (halo)perbenzoic acids, such as m- chloroperbenzoic acid, organic, organometallic or enzymatic catalysts, such as titanium, manganese or aluminium derivatives, with one or more enzyme(s) chosen from lipases which convert acids into peracids which epoxidize the unsaturations, peroxygenases, non-haem monooxygenases, haloperoxidases, such as chloroperoxidase, or cytochrome P450 monooxygenases; in which process route iii), the hydrolysis, is carried out on said polymer(s) (D) in order to obtain one or more diol polymer(s) (B), according to the following Scheme (4):in which Scheme 4 the polymers (B) contain Ri and R4radicals which are as defined above, it being understood that (B) can be in cyclic form (B1) and bicyclic form (B'1) if Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group; preferably, the epoxidation stage iii) is carried out in water or in a mixture of (non-)polar (a)protic organic solvent(s) and of water; the hydrolysis of the epoxide according to route iii) can be carried out concomitantly with route ii) in order to generate the corresponding vicinal diol of the diol polymer(s) (B);preferentially, the hydrolysis is carried out in a second stage according to route iii) subsequent to route ii) using an alkaline, neutral or acidic medium, preferably an acidic or basic medium, and using different types of catalysts of the type of organic bases, such as amines, for example triethylamine, phosphines, such as tributylphosphines, or heteronitrogenous bases, such as 1 ,4- diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane (DABCO), inorganic bases, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, such as NaOH or KOH, organometallic catalysts derived from titanium, aluminium, zirconium, bismuth, scandium, erbium or cobalt, p-cyclodextrin or enzymes, such as epoxide hydrolases; in which process route iv), the (di)hydroxylation, is carried out on said polymer(s) (C) in order to obtain one or more mono- or dihydroxylated polymer(s) (B), according to the following Scheme 5: iv)(C) - - ► (B) in which Scheme 5, the polymers (C) are as defined above and (B) are mono- or dihydroxylated, preferably dihydroxylated, as defined above; preferably, route iv) employs one or more oxidizing agent(s) of the type of periodates, such as alkali metal or alkaline earth metal periodates, such as sodium periodate, Oxone, peroxides, selenium derivatives, metal catalysts, such as OsO4, RuO4, other ruthenium complexes, such as the RuCI3 / NalO4 combination, manganese derivatives, such as KMnO4, manganese complexes, iron, palladium or silver complexes, organometallic catalysts which are used with different types of oxidizing agents, such as H2O2, O2or other peroxides, or enzymes, such as Rieske dioxygenases; in which process said polymer(s) (C) can be cleaved by oxidative degradation and preferably by ozonolysis, in particular at the double bond, according to route v) in an in particular organic, preferably polar, more preferentially polar protic, solvent, such as (Ci-C4)alkanols, in particular methanol, in particular carried out at a temperature of between 0°C and solvent reflux (preferentially at a temperature preferably of less than or equal to 120°C), more particularly at a temperature of between 5°C and 60°C, such as 50°C + / - 5°C, to result in the diacid compound(s) or dicarboxylate salt(s) (D-1), according to the following Scheme 6:in which Scheme 6 Ri and R4 are as defined above or else R1 and / or R4 represent(s) the following unit -X-RET: with RET and X as defined above; preferentially R-i represents a -C(0)-0R’4 groupwith R’4as defined above. the polymers (C) can also be degraded according to route v) in a first stage by oxidizing agents, in particular alkali metal permanganates, in particular KMnCU, which is preferably concentrated, and / or by heating in an in particular organic solvent, preferentially by heating the medium to a temperature of between 50°C and solvent reflux and to a temperature preferably of less than or equal to 120°C, or by ozonolysis with ozone O3, preferentially with O3in a preferably polar, more preferentially polar protic, solvent, such as (Ci-C4)alkanols, in particular methanol, and especially carried out at a temperature of between 0°C and solvent reflux (preferentially at a temperature preferably of less than or equal to 120°C), more particularly at a temperature of between 5°C and 60°C, such as 50°C + / - 5°C, (D-1) and also their optical isomers and their salts, in particular of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals; on conclusion of this first oxidation stage, a mixture of oligomers and of the compounds of formula (D-1) may be obtained and a second oxidation treatment is optionally carried out, in particular in an acidic medium, preferably with one or more inorganic acids, preferentially by using hydrogen peroxide H2O2and an inorganic acid, such as sulfuric acid H2SO4, in particular in order to improve the yield of acquisition of the compounds of formula (D-1); it being understood that:- at each of the routes of the process, the hydrolysis of the ester group(s) -C(O)- OR4 and -C(O)-OR'4can be carried out using “strong” base(s), or strong organicor inorganic acid(s), in order to result in -C(O)-O M+groups with M+as defined above; and- the crosslinked polymers of the invention (i.e. comprising one or more unit(s) chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) defined in Claim 2) are obtained by reaction of at least one polymer a1) and / or a2) as defined in either one of Claims 15 and 16 with one or more crosslinking agent(s) as defined in Claim 12 or 13.
20. Polymer according to any one of Claims 15 to 18 obtained by the process according to the preceding claim.
21. Compound of formula (D-1) as defined in Claim 19,It being understood that the compound of formula (D-1) is different from a) 1 ,4- dimethyl 2,2,3,3-butanetetracarboxylate, b) 1 ,2-diethyl 1 , 1 ,2,2- ethanetetracarboxylate, c) 1 ,4-di-2-propen-1-yl 2,2,3,3-butanetetracarboxylate, d) 1 ,2-bis(2,2-dimethylpropyl) 1 ,1 ,2,2-ethanetetracarboxylate and e) 1 , 1 ,2,2- ethanetetracarboxylic acid 1 ,2-diphenyl ester; preferably, (D-1) is such that Ri represents a -C(O)-OR'4group with R4and R'4as defined above; preferably, R4and R'4are identical, i.e. of formula (D-2), and R4and R'4represent iii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, or aromatic or non-aromatic, cyclic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms; preferably, said hydrocarbon group is saturated linear or branched acyclic, or cyclic:(0-2)22. Composition, preferably cosmetic composition, comprising one or more polymer(s) chosen from homopolymers a1) or copolymers a2) as defined in any one of Claims 15 to 18 and 20.
23. Method for the treatment of keratin materials which employs at least one stage of application to keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials, especially a) to human keratin fibres, such as head hair, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, or P) to human skin, a) of one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or of one or more copolymer(s) a2) which comprise(s) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) as defined in any one of Claims 1 , 4 to 11 , 15 to 18 and 20 and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) or their mixtures as defined in Claim 3, optionally b) in the presence of one or more crosslinking agent(s) as defined in Claim 12 or 13.
24. Method for the treatment of keratin materials which employs at least one stage of application to keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials, especially a) to human keratin fibres, such as head hair, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, or ) to human skin, of the composition according to Claim 13 or a composition according to Claim 22.
25. Kit comprising at least two separate compartments, preferably two separate compartments, the first compartment comprising a) one or more homopolymer(s) a1) and / or one or more copolymer(s) a2) as defined in any one of Claims 1 , 4 to 11 , 15 to 18 and 20 or a composition containing it / them as defined in Claim 14 or 22, said homopolymer(s) a1) and / or copolymer(s) a2) comprising i) several repeat units chosen from the units (A) and optionally ii) at least one unit chosen from the units (A1) to (A15) or their mixtures, as definedin Claim 3, and the second compartment comprising b) at least one crosslinking agent as defined in Claim 12 or 13, or a composition said crosslinking agent(s).
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