Hair treatment compositions

Abstract

A hair treatment composition for treating type 3 or type 4 hair comprises: 1 to 10% by weight of a cationic surfactant, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition; 0.5 to 10% by weight of a lipid, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition; 1.0 to 40% by weight of a humectant, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition; 0.1 to 6.0% by weight of a fiber active, wherein 0.01 to 1.0% by weight of the fiber active is a vegan fiber active, preferably wherein the fiber active comprises a tricarboxylic acid, gluconate, or a combination thereof, more preferably wherein the fiber active comprises a tricarboxylic acid, sodium gluconate, or a combination thereof; 0.25 to 20% by weight of a cationic polymer, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition; and water.

Description

[0001] P0001006WQ

[0002] 1

[0003] HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITIONS

[0004] Field of the invention

[0005] 5 Disclosed herein are hair treatment compositions for treating type 3 or type 4 hair. The hair treatment compositions comprise a cationic surfactant; a lipid; a humectant; a fiber active; a cationic polymer; and water.

[0006] Background of the invention

[0007] 10 Consumers regularly use compositions that enhance the appearance of hair, for example, by changing the color, hairstyle, and / or shape of the hair and / or by imparting properties to the hair such as shine or conditioning. There are numerous techniques and compositions for styling or changing the shape of hair. For example, some hair care products known as relaxers or straighteners can straighten curly or frizzy hair, including wavy hair. Straightening curly hair can help in increasing manageability of this type of hair. Hair perming compositions will impart a curl or wave to otherwise straight hair. Different types of compositions can be applied to hair to change its shape and make it more manageable.

[0008] While straightening, perming, and waving compositions can effectively alter the shape of hair,

[0009] 20 these chemical treatments can damage hair fibers and / or irritate the scalp. Thus, to reduce or avoid damage to the hair, as well as improve the performance of the compositions, various types of styling products have been developed by manufacturers which aim to help consumers achieve a desired appearance, including fuller hair, thicker hair, smooth hair, silky hair, frizz-free hair, and / or defined curls. Such products are generally provided in forms which are applied after the

[0010] 25 shampooing and conditioning processes are complete.

[0011] As those with wave or curl (natural or otherwise) in hair know, dampness and humidity can lead to disruption of the curls. Disruption in the curl is the result of disruption of one or more bonds in the protein structure of the hair. Hair contains three primary bonds: hydrogen bonds (the weakest), salt-peptide linkages (hydrophobic interaction of the aliphatic amino acid side chains), and cystine / cysteine bonds. Hydrogen bonds are affected by moisture. Salt-peptide linkages are affected by moisture and heat. Cystine / cysteine bonds are responsible for the toughness / resilience of hair. Humidity is known to increase the length, volume (swelling), and diameter of hair strands. Heat can also have a swelling effect on the hair. These effects then

[0012] 35 affect the mechanical frictional properties (e.g., bending or elasticity) of the hair. When curly hair P0001006WQ

[0013] 2 is subjected to both moisture and heat, the bonds are adversely affected to the point that the hair swells and increases in length, thereby causing a curl droop.

[0014] A frequent solution is the use of styling gels that attempt to hold the curl in by the use of film

[0015] 5 forming polymers. Products of this type can have variable efficacy. An effective product will generally leave the hair feeling stiff, sticky, and unnatural, while a more natural feeling product will generally not stand up to weather conditions. For example, styling products that provide protection against external factors such as humidity protection to minimize or reduce frizz are available. To achieve this benefit, a water-resistant film or coating can be applied to the hair using

[0016] 10 film-forming polymers. Product formulations which include these polymers can tend to be viscous since as the concentration of the polymer increases, its viscosity rises rapidly. Translated into styling applications, as the solvent evaporates, the polymer solution thickens on the surface of the hair, leaving a sticky film or residue. This often leaves hair with films that are hard and brittle and therefore, have a squeaking sound when handled.

[0017] U.S. 2008 / 0145350 A1 discloses a method of retaining curl in keratinous material comprising applying to the keratinous material a composition comprising a retention-effective amount of a transglutaminase.

[0018] 20 FR 3 113 460 A1 discloses styling compositions that include (a) about 5% by weight or more of hydrogenated starch hydrolyzate; (b) about 3 to about 20% by weight polyol; (c) wherein a weight ratio of the total amount of hydrogenated starch hydrolyzate to the total amount of polyol is from 1 :1 to 10:1 ; (c) about 1 to about 10% by weight of an herbal or vegetable oil, wherein the herbal or vegetable oil comprises shea butter or castor oil, or one of their combinations; (d) about 0.1 to

[0019] 25 about 7% by weight of a cationic surfactant; (e) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of emulsifiers, in which the emulsifiers are chosen from: - about 0.1 to about 9.8% by weight of a glyceryl ester; - about 0.1 to about 9.8% by weight of a fatty alcohol; and - one of their mixtures; and (f) water, wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the styling composition.

[0020] It is continually desired to provide hair treatment compositions that permit type 3 or type 4 hair to retain the curl length and elongation, while leaving the hair feeling soft and natural.

[0021] Summary of the invention

[0022] Disclosed in various aspects are hair treatment compositions.

[0023] 35 P0001006WQ

[0024] 3

[0025] A hair treatment composition for treating type 3 or type 4 hair comprises: 1 to 10% by weight of a cationic surfactant, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition; 0.5 to 10% by weight of a lipid, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition; 1.0 to 40% by weight of a humectant, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition; 0.1 to 6.0% by weight

[0026] 5 of a fiber active, wherein 0.01 to 1.0% by weight of the fiber active is a vegan fiber active, preferably wherein the fiber active comprises a tricarboxylic acid, gluconate, or a combination thereof, more preferably wherein the fiber active comprises a tricarboxylic acid, sodium gluconate, or a combination thereof; 0.25 to 20% by weight of a cationic polymer, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition; and water.

[0027] 10

[0028] These and other features and characteristics are more particularly described below.

[0029] Detailed description of the invention

[0030] Disclosed herein are hair treatment compositions. The hair treatment compositions treat type 3 or type 4 hair. The hair treatment compositions can comprise 1 to 10% by weight of a cationic surfactant, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. The hair treatment compositions can comprise 0.5 to 10% by weight of a lipid, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. The hair treatment compositions can comprise 1 to 40% by weight of a humectant, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. The hair treatment

[0031] 20 compositions can comprise 0.1 to 6.0% by weight of a fiber active, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, where 0.01 to 1.0% by weight of the fiber active can comprise a vegan fiber active. The fiber active can comprise a tricarboxylic acid, gluconate, or a combination thereof. The fiber active can comprise a tricarboxylic acid, sodium gluconate, or a combination thereof. The hair treatment compositions can comprise 0.25 to 20% by weight of a cationic

[0032] 25 polymer, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0033] The hair treatment compositions can be used to moisturize, strengthen, and detangle shrinkage prone hair to provide touchably soft, lengthy curls. Shrinkage prone hair as described herein generally refers to type 3 or type 4 hair. The hair treatment compositions can provide length retention and curl elongation to type 3 or type 4 hair. Unexpectedly, it was found that the curl elongation can last for at least 5 days. The hair treatment compositions can provide a refreshing boost of moisture and frizz control between washes to protect against humidity and maintain defined curls. The curls can remain defined for at least 5 days. The hair treatment compositions can provide lavish moisturization and length retention, strengthened strands and prevent damage

[0034] 35 from stretching or heat, and can also provide silk-like detangling for easy comb through. P0001006WQ

[0035] 4

[0036] As previously mentioned, the hair can be of type 3 or type 4 hair. Curly hair (also known as type 3 hair) has loose to corkscrew curls which are typically defined as a “round S”. This type of hair is more likely to become frizzy and is highly damage prone. Lack of proper care for curly hair can cause less defined curls and can appear frizzier. Tight curls or coiled hair (also known as type 4

[0037] 5 hair) features tightly coiled, wiry curls (or no visible curl pattern at all). It is very fragile with a high density. Tight curls or coiled hair has a “Z” pattern and typically the hair bends at sharp angles rather than gentle curls as seen in wavy or curly hair. Tight curls or coiled hair often shrinks when wet and because it has fewer cuticle layers than other hair types, it is more susceptible to damage.

[0038] 10 The hair treated can be virgin hair or damaged hair. Virgin hair as disclosed herein is meant hair that has not been subjected to intensive physical and / or chemical treatment, for example, bleaching, dyeing, perming, heat treatment and strong and / or prolonged exposure to solar radiation; nor displays features characteristic of damaged hair, for example, split ends and / or excessive dryness. Virgin hair includes hair that has sustained low levels of damage during the natural hair life cycle. Sources of low level damage likely include but are not necessarily limited to, washing, brushing, combing, and natural processes such as limited solar photo-degradation for example. The hair is preferably damaged hair.

[0039] The damage may be caused by mechanical means, for example combing and brushing, chemical

[0040] 20 means, exposure to heat, environmental means such as sunlight and exposure to damaging energy sources, for example light such as UV light. Chemical means includes treatments that involve an oxidative step, for example, hair lightening, such as bleaching, and coloring treatments. Preferably the hair is bleached, more preferably bleached multiple times.

[0041] 25 The surfactant in the hair treatment compositions can comprise an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a non-ionic surfactant, a zwitterionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, or a combination thereof. The total amount of surfactant can be 1 to 60% by weight, for example, 2 to 50% by weight, for example, 2 to 40% by weight, for example, 2 to 37% by weight, for example, 2 to 30% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein. The surfactant can differ depending on whether the end use product is a shampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioner, mask, serum, spray, cream, leave-on cream, etc.

[0042] The hair treatment composition can be free from the use of sulfate surfactants. Substantially free or essentially free as used herein refers to an amount of less than or equal to 1 % by weight, for

[0043] 35 example, less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, for example, less than or equal to 0.25% by weight, P0001006WQ

[0044] 5 for example, less than or equal to 0.1 % by weight, for example, less than or equal to 0.01 % by weight, for example, 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0045] Shampoos

[0046] 5 Shampoo compositions as disclosed herein are generally aqueous, i.e., they have water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystalline phase as their major component.

[0047] Desirably, the shampoo composition can comprise 50 to 98%, for example, 55 to 90% water by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Shampoo compositions as disclosed herein will generally comprise one or more anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and desirable for topical application to the hair.

[0049] Examples of anionic cleansing surfactants are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl

[0050] 15 sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether

[0051] 20 sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.

[0052] In an aspect of the hair treatment composition, the anionic surfactant can comprise sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium

[0053] 25 lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium pareth sulfate, alpha olefin sulfonate (AOS) (e.g., sodium alpha olefin sulfonate), or a combination thereof. Such anionic surfactants are commercially available from suppliers like Galaxy Surfactants, Clariant, Sino Lion, Stepan Company, and Innospec. In an embodiment, the hair treatment cleansing composition is essentially free of sulfate.

[0054] 30

[0055] Other anionic cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo compositions disclosed herein can include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, P0001006WQ

[0056] 6 sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.

[0057] Further anionic cleansing surfactants can comprise sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether

[0058] 5 sulphate (n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium cocoyl isethionate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n) EO (where n is from 10 to 20).

[0059] The anionic surfactant can comprise sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium

[0060] 10 lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium alpha olefin sulfonate, or a combination thereof.

[0061] Mixtures of any of the foregoing anionic cleansing surfactants can be used.

[0062] The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant present in shampoo compositions of the hair treatment compositions can be 0.5 to 45%, for example, 1.5 to 35%, for example, 5 to 20%, for example, 12 to 20%, for example, 15 to 20% by total weight anionic cleansing surfactant based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0063] 20

[0064] Optionally, a shampoo composition of the hair treatment compositions can comprise further ingredients as described to enhance performance and / or consumer acceptability.

[0065] The composition can include co-surfactants, to help impart aesthetic, physical or cleansing

[0066] 25 properties to the composition.

[0067] An example of a co-surfactant is a nonionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount of 0.5 to 8%, preferably 2 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0068] For example, representative nonionic surfactants that can be included in shampoo compositions of the hair treatment compositions include condensation products of aliphatic (Cs - Cis) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups. P0001006WQ

[0069] 7

[0070] Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coco mono- or di-ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide.

[0071] Further nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoo compositions of the hair treatment compositions include alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Typically, APG is one which comprises an alkyl

[0072] 5 group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:

[0073] RO - (G)n

[0074] 10 wherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group.

[0075] R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about Cs to about C20. Preferably R represents a mean alkyl chain length of Cs to C12. Most preferably the value of R 9.5 to 10.5. G may be selected from Cs or Cs monosaccharide residues and is preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. Preferably G is glucose.

[0076] The degree of polymerization, n, may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or more. Preferably,

[0077] 20 the value of n lies from about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably the value of n lies from about 1.3 to about 1.5.

[0078] Suitable alkyl polyglycosides are commercially available and include for example those materials identified as: ORAMIX™ NS10 ex Seppic; PLANTAREN™ 1200 and PLANTAREN™ 2000 ex from

[0079] 25 Henkel.

[0080] Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants which can be included in compositions include the C10-C18 N-alkyl (Ci-Ce) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as the Ci2-Ci8N-methyl glucamides, as described for example in International Patent Application No. WO 1992 / 06154 and U.S. Patent No. 5,194,639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C10-C18 N-(3-methoxypropyl) glucamide.

[0081] A preferred example of a co-surfactant is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, either of which can be included in an amount of 0.5 to 25%, for example, 1 to 20% by weight, for example, 5 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and

[0082] 35 values subsumed therein. P0001006WQ

[0083] 8

[0084] Amphoteric surfactants (which depending on pH can be zwitterionic) include sodium acyl amphoacetates, sodium acyl amphopropionates, disodium acyl amphodiacetates and disodium acyl amphodipropionates where the acyl (i.e., alkanoyl group) can comprise a C7-C18 alkyl portion. Illustrative examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium

[0085] 5 cocoamphoacetate, or a combination thereof.

[0086] As to the zwitterionic surfactants employed in the present hair treatment composition, such surfactants include at least one acid group. Such an acid group may be a carboxylic or a sulphonic acid group. They often include quaternary nitrogen, and therefore, can be quaternary amino acids.

[0087] 10 They should generally include an alkyl or alkenyl group of 7 to 18 carbon atoms and generally comply with an overall structural formula:

[0088] R6— [— C(O)— NH(CH2)q— ],— N+(R7)(R8)-A— B where R6is alkyl or alkenyl of 7 to 18 carbon atoms; R7and R8are each independently alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of 1 to 3 carbon atoms; q is 2 to 4; r is 0 to 1 ; A is alkylene of 1 to 3 carbon atoms optionally substituted with hydroxyl, and B is — CO2— or — SO3 — .

[0089] Desirable zwitterionic surfactants for use in the cleansing composition disclosed herein and within

[0090] 20 the above general formula include simple betaines of formula:

[0091] R6— N+(R7)(R8)-CH2CO2‘ and amido betaines of formula:

[0092] 25

[0093] R6— CONH(CH2)t— N+(R7)(R8)-CH2CO2- where t is 2 or 3.

[0094] In both formulae R6, R7and R8are as defined previously. R6may, in particular, be a mixture of Ci2and C14 alkyl groups derived from coconut oil so that at least half, preferably at least three quarters of the groups R6have 10 to 14 carbon atoms. R7and R8are preferably methyl.

[0095] A further possibility is that the zwitterionic surfactant is a sulphobetaine of formula:

[0096] 35 P0001006WQ

[0097] 9

[0098] R6— N+(R7)(R8)-(CH2)3SO3- or

[0099] R6— CONH(CH2)U— N+(R7)(R8)-(CH2)3SO3-

[0100] 5 where u is 2 or 3, or variants of these in which — (CH2)3SO3‘ is replaced by — CH2C(OH)(H)CH2SO3-.

[0101] In these formulae, R6, R7and R8are as previously defined.

[0102] Illustrative examples of the zwitterionic surfactants desirable for use include betaines such as lauryl betaine, betaine citrate, cocodimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, coco alkyldimethyl betaine, and laurylamidopropyl betaine. An additional zwitterionic surfactant suitable for use includes cocoamidopropyl sultaine, for example, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine. Preferred zwitterionic surfactants include lauryl betaine, betaine citrate, sodium

[0103] 15 hydroxymethylglycinate, (carboxymethyl) dimethyl-3-[(1 -oxododecyl) amino] propylammonium hydroxide, coco alkyldimethyl betaine, (carboxymethyl) dimethyloleylammonium hydroxide, cocoamidopropyl betaine, (carboxymethyl) dimethyloleylammonium hydroxide, cocoamidopropyl betaine, (carboxylatomethyl) dimethyl(octadecyl)ammonium, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, or a combination thereof. Most preferred zwitterionic surfactants include cocodimethyl

[0104] 20 carboxymethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, laurylamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, cocamide monoethanolamide, or a combination thereof. Such surfactants are made commercially available from suppliers like Stepan Company, Solvay, Evonik and the like and it is within the scope of the cleansing compositions disclosed herein to employ mixtures of the aforementioned surfactants.

[0105] 25

[0106] Mixtures of any of the foregoing amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be utilized. Preferred mixtures are those of cocamidopropyl betaine with further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants as described above. A preferred further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is sodium cocoamphoacetate.

[0107] The total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant, and / or any emulsifier) in a shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition can be 1 to 50% by weight, for example, 2 to 40% by weight, for example, 10 to 40% by weight, by total weight surfactant based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0108] 35 P0001006WQ

[0109] 10

[0110] Cationic polymers are preferred ingredients in a shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition for enhancing conditioning performance.

[0111] Desirable cationic polymers can be homopolymers which are cationically substituted or may be

[0112] 5 formed from two or more types of monomers. The weight average (Mw) molecular weight of the polymers can be 100,000 to 2 million Daltons. The polymers will have cationic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a combination thereof. If the molecular weight of the polymer is too low, then the conditioning effect is poor. If too high, then there may be problems of high extensional viscosity leading to stringiness of the composition when it is poured.

[0113] The cationic nitrogen-containing group can generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer. Thus, when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can contain spacer non-cationic monomer units. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic

[0114] 15 Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition. The ratio of the cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give polymers having a cationic charge density in the required range, which is generally from 0.2 to 3.0 milliequivalents per gram (meq / gm). The cationic charge density of the polymer is suitably determined via the Kjeldahl method as described in the US Pharmacopoeia under chemical tests for nitrogen determination.

[0115] 20

[0116] Desirable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth)acrylamides, alkyl (meth)acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl

[0117] 25 groups, more preferably C1-3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

[0118] The cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially

[0119] 30 tertiary, are preferred.

[0120] Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization. P0001006WQ

[0121] 11

[0122] The cationic polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and / or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and / or compatible spacer monomers.

[0123] Suitable cationic polymers include, for example:

[0124] 5 cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256); cationic polyacrylamides(as described in International Application No. WO 95 / 22311). cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including polymeric

[0125] 15 quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with a trimethyl ammonium substitute (PQ-10);

[0126] PQ-28 (polyvinyl pyrrolidone-methyacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride.

[0127] Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as

[0128] 20 cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives.

[0129] In an embodiment, the cationic polymer can comprise quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with a trimethyl ammonium substitute (PQ-10), polymeric quaternary ammonium slat of diethyl sulfate and a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate

[0130] 25 (PQ-11), polyvinyl pyrrolidone-methyacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (PQ-28), or a combination thereof.

[0131] Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions disclosed herein include monomers of the formula:

[0132] 30

[0133] A-O-[R-N+(R1)(R2)(R3)X-], wherein: A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual. R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or P0001006WQ

[0134] 12 combination thereof. R1, R2and R3independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety (i.e. , the sum of carbon atoms in R1, R2and R3) is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion.

[0135] 5

[0136] Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from the Amerchol Corporation, for instance under the tradename Polymer LM-200.

[0137] 10

[0138] Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent No. 3,962,418), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent No. 3,958,581).

[0139] A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhodia in their JAGUAR trademark series). Examples of such materials are JAGUAR™ C13S, JAGUAR™ C14, JAGUAR™ C15 and JAGUAR™ C17.

[0140] 20 Mixtures of any of the above cationic polymers may be used.

[0141] Cationic polymer will generally be present in a shampoo composition of the hair treatment compositions at levels of 0.01 to 5%, preferably 0.05 to 1 %, more preferably 0.08 to 0.9% by total weight of cationic polymer based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges

[0142] 25 and values subsumed therein.

[0143] An aqueous shampoo composition of the hair treatment composition can further comprise a suspending agent. Desirable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acid-containing monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long chain acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives, since these impart

[0144] 35 pearlescence to the composition. Polyacrylic acid is available commercially as CARBOPOL™ P0001006WQ

[0145] 13

[0146] 420, CARBOPOL™ 488 or CARBOPOL™ 493. Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a polyfunctional agent may also be used; they are available commercially as CARBOPOL™ 910, CARBOPOL™ 934, CARBOPOL™ 941 and CARBOPOL™ 980. An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing monomer and acrylic acid esters is CARBOPOL™

[0147] 5 1342. All CARBOPOL™ materials are available from Goodrich.

[0148] Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are PEMULEN™ TR1 or PEMULEN™ TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for example that available as Kelzan mu.

[0149] Mixtures of any of the above suspending agents may be used. Preferred is a mixture of crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid and crystalline long chain acyl derivative.

[0150] Suspending agents can generally be present in a shampoo composition of the hair treatment

[0151] 15 composition at levels of 0.1 to 10%, for example, 0.5 to 6%, for example, 0.9 to 4% by total weight of suspending agent based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0152] Conditioners (rinse-off, leave-in, masks, oils, serums, leave-on creams)

[0153] 20 Conditioner compositions will typically comprise one or more cationic conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. Conditioner compositions as disclosed herein can preferably include a leave-on cream.

[0154] Preferably, the cationic conditioning surfactants have the formula N+(R1)(R2)(R3)(R4), wherein R1,

[0155] 25 R2, R3and R4are independently (Ci to C30) alkyl or benzyl.

[0156] Preferably, one, two or three of R1, R2, R3and R4are independently (C4 to C30) alkyl and the other R1, R2, R3and R4group or groups are (Ci-Ce) alkyl or benzyl.

[0157] More preferably, one or two of R1, R2, R3and R4are independently (Ce to C30) alkyl and the other R1, R2, R3and R4groups are (Ci-Ce) alkyl or benzyl groups. Optionally, the alkyl groups may comprise one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-) and / or ether (-O-) linkages within the alkyl chain. Alkyl groups may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Alkyl groups may be straight chain or branched and, for alkyl groups having 3 or more carbon atoms, cyclic. The

[0158] 35 alkyl groups may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., P0001006WQ oleyl). Alkyl groups are optionally ethoxylated on the alkyl chain with one or more ethyleneoxy groups.

[0159] The hair treatment compositions can comprise 0.01 to 10 wt % of cationic conditioning surfactant,

[0160] 5 by total weight of the hair treatment composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein; selected from structure 1 and mixtures thereof

[0161] ©

[0162] D RI © R2X

[0163] Structure 1 wherein:

[0164] • Ri comprises a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from C16 to C24, preferably C18 to C22;

[0165] • R2 comprises a proton or a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from C1 to C4, preferably C1 to C2 or a benzyl group; and

[0166] • X is an organic or inorganic anion.

[0167] 15

[0168] Preferably, the carbon-carbon chain length of Ri in structure 1 differs from the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2 by from 3 to 12, more preferably from 4 to 12, even more preferably from 6 to 12, most preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such that the carbon-carbon chain length of Ri is structure 1 is longer than the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2.

[0169] 20

[0170] In structure 1 , the amine head group is charged within the final formulation. Raw materials include species where the charge is not permanent and can be induced by protonation in the formulation using a strong acid. When R2 is a proton in the above general formulae, the proton may be present in the raw material or become associated during formulation.

[0171] 25

[0172] Optionally, the alkyl groups may comprise one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-), amido (-NOC- or NCO-), and / or ether (-O-) linkages within the alkyl chain. Alkyl groups may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Alkyl groups may be straight chain or branched and, for alkyl groups having 3 or more carbon atoms, cyclic. The alkyl groups may be saturated or may contain

[0173] 30 one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). Alkyl groups are optionally ethoxylated on the alkyl chain with one or more ethyleneoxy groups. P0001006WQ

[0174] 15

[0175] Suitable quaternary amine salts for use in conditioner compositions are quaternary amine salts comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0176] Suitable quaternary amine salts for use in conditioner compositions include cetyltrimethylammonium

[0177] 5 chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulphate, behenylAmido Propyl Di-Methyl Amine, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, Stearalkonium methosulphate, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride (e.g., Arquad 2HT / 75 from Akzo Nobel), cocotrimethylammonium chloride, or a combination thereof.

[0178] 15

[0179] Preferred quaternary amine salts can be selected from behentrimonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulphate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, or a combination thereof. The behentrimonium chloride can be combined with a solvent (e.g., isopropyl alcohol, dipropylene glycol, etc.) in the compositions.

[0180] 20

[0181] The composition can comprise a linear cationic co-surfactant, according to structure 2: 3 ;3©

[0182] 3 0 3

[0183] 25 wherein:

[0184] • R2 comprises a proton or a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from Ci to C4, preferably Ci to C2 or a benzyl group;

[0185] • R3 comprises a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from C3 up to but not including C16, preferably C™ to Ci4; and

[0186] 30 • X is an organic or inorganic anion; P0001006WQ

[0187] 16 wherein the carbon-carbon chain length of Ri in structure 1 differs from the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2 by at least 3 carbon atoms, such that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 is structure 1 is longer than the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2; and

[0188] 5 wherein the molar ratio of linear cationic co-surfactant (iv) to linear cationic conditioning primary surfactant (i) is 1 :20 to 1 :1 , preferably 1 :10 to 1 :1 , preferably 1 :5 to 1 :2.

[0189] Preferably, the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from the carbon-carbon chain length of Rs in structure 2 by 3 to 12, more preferably 4 to 12, even more preferably 6 to 12, most preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 is structure 1 is longer than the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2.

[0190] R3 comprises a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from C3 up to but not including C16, preferably C3 to C14, more preferably Ce to C14, even more preferably Cs to C14,

[0191] 15 most preferably C10 to C14.

[0192] The linear co-surfactant can be present in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt %, preferably 0.1 to 2, more preferably 0.1 to 1.0, most preferably 0.2 to 0.7 wt % based on the weight of total composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0193] 20

[0194] X is an organic or inorganic anion. Preferably, X comprises an anion selected from the halide ions; sulphates of the general formula RSO3; wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and anionic radicals of organic acids.

[0195] 25 Preferred halide ions are selected from fluoride, chloride, bromide and iodide. Preferred anionic radicals of organic acids are selected from maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate and acetate. Preferred sulphates are methanesulphonate and ethanesulphonate.

[0196] Most preferably, X- comprises an anion selected from a halide, a methanesulfonate group and

[0197] 30 an ethanesulphonate group.

[0198] In a preferred embodiment,

[0199] • R3 comprises linear alkyl chains, saturated or unsaturated, with carbon-carbon chain lengths of from C10 to C14; P0001006WQ

[0200] 17

[0201] • R2 comprises a proton or an alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from Ci to C2; and

[0202] • X is selected from a halide, methanesulphonate and ethanesulphonate.

[0203] 5 An example of a suitable material according to structure 2 is dodecyl-trimethylammonium chloride.

[0204] Suitable cationic conditioning surfactants for use in conditioner compositions according to the hair treatment compositions include comprises a quaternary ammonium, an amine salt, or a combination thereof. The cationic surfactant can comprise cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride,

[0205] 15 didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleammonium chloride and the corresponding hydroxides thereof, stearamido-propyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine,

[0206] 20 palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylmine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachid-amidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and or a combination thereof.

[0207] 25

[0208] Further suitable cationic surfactants include those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the foregoing materials may also be suitable. A cationic surfactant for use in conditioners can be cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN CTAC, ex Hoechst Celanese. Another

[0209] 30 cationic surfactant for use in conditioners can be behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN KDMP, ex Clariant. P0001006WQ

[0210] Another example of a class of suitable cationic conditioning surfactants, either alone or in admixture with one or more other cationic conditioning surfactants, is a combination of (i) and (ii) below:

[0211] 5 (i) an amidoamine corresponding to the general formula (I): in which R1is a hydrocarbyl chain having 10 or more carbon atoms,

[0212] R2and R3are independently selected from hydrocarbyl chains of from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 10; and

[0213] (ii) an acid.

[0214] 15 As used herein, the term hydrocarbyl chain means an alkyl or alkenyl chain.

[0215] Preferred amidoamine compounds are those corresponding to formula (I) in which

[0216] R1is a hydrocarbyl residue having 11 to 24 carbon atoms,

[0217] 20 R2and R3are each independently hydrocarbyl residues, preferably alkyl groups, having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, and m is an integer of 1 to 4.

[0218] Preferably, R2and R3are methyl or ethyl groups.

[0219] 25

[0220] Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e. , an ethylene or propylene group.

[0221] Preferred amidoamines useful herein include stearamido-propyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine,

[0222] 30 palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, P0001006WQ

[0223] 19 behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylmine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachid-amidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, or a combination thereof.

[0224] 5

[0225] Particularly preferred amidoamines useful herein are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, or a combination thereof.

[0226] Commercially available amidoamines useful herein include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine with tradenames LEXAMINE™ S-13 available from Index (Philadelphia Pennsylvania, USA) and AMIDOAMINE™ MSP available from Nikko (Tokyo, Japan), stearamidoethyldiethylamine with a tradename AMIDOAMINE™ S available from Nikko, behenamidopropyldimethylamine with a tradename INCROMINE™ BB available from Croda (North Humberside, England), and various amidoamines with tradenames SCHERCODINE™ series available from Scher (Clifton, New

[0227] 15 Jersey, USA).

[0228] Acid (ii) may be any organic or mineral acid which is capable of protonating the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition. Suitable acids useful herein include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably,

[0229] 20 the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0230] The primary role of the acid is to protonate the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition thus forming a tertiary amine salt (TAS) in situ in the hair treatment composition. The TAS in effect is

[0231] 25 a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.

[0232] Suitably, the acid is included in a sufficient amount to protonate all the amidoamine present, i.e. , at a level which is at least equimolar to the amount of amidoamine present in the composition.

[0233] 30 Cationic surfactants can be present in the hair treatment compositions in an amount of 1.0 to 10% by weight, for example, 1 .0 to 7.5% by weight, for example, 1 .0 to 5.0% by weight, for example, 1.5 to 5.0% by weight, for example, 1.0 to 3.0, for example, 1.0 to 2.0, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. P0001006WQ

[0234] 20

[0235] Conditioners will typically also incorporate a fatty alcohol. The combined use of fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

[0236] 5 Representative fatty alcohols comprise 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing straight chain alkyl groups. Examples of desirable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, cetearyl, stearyl alcohol, or a combination thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of hair treatment compositions.

[0237] The level of fatty alcohol in conditioners as disclosed herein can be 0.01 to 10%, for example, 0.1 to 8%, for example, 0.2 to 7%, for example, 0.3 to 6% by weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol can be 1 :1 to 1 :10, for example, 1 :1.5 to 1 :8, for example, 1 :2 to 1 :5. If the weight ratio of cationic

[0238] 15 surfactant to fatty alcohol is too high, this can lead to eye irritancy from the composition. If it is too low, it can make the hair feel squeaky for some consumers.

[0239] Cationic Polymer

[0240] Cationic polymers can be used in the hair treatment compositions in forms other than shampoo. For

[0241] 20 example, cationic polymers can be used in conditioners, cream, or leave-on creams. Cationic polymers for use in forms other than shampoo can be the same as those previously described herein. In an embodiment, the cationic polymers include, for example: cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including, for example,

[0242] 25 dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (as described in U.S. Patent

[0243] 30 4,009,256); cationic polyacrylamides(as described in International Application No. WO 95 / 22311). cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with a trimethyl ammonium substitute (PQ-10); P0001006WQ

[0244] 21

[0245] PQ-28 (polyvinyl pyrrolidone-methyacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride.

[0246] In an embodiment, the cationic polymer can comprise quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with a trimethyl ammonium substitute (PQ-10), polymeric quaternary ammonium

[0247] 5 slat of diethyl sulfate and a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate (PQ-11), polyvinyl pyrrolidone-methyacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (PQ-28), or a combination thereof.

[0248] Cationic polymer will generally be present in the hair treatment compositions at levels of 0.01 to 5%, preferably 0.05 to 1%, more preferably 0.08 to 0.9% by total weight of cationic polymer based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0249] Lipid

[0250] The lipid can be present in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, for example, 1.0 to 9% by weight, for

[0251] 15 example, 1.5 to 8% by weight, for example, 2.0 to 7.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0252] In an embodiment, the lipid comprises Baobab seed oil, Argan kernel oil, behenyl neopentanoate, borage seed oil, rapeseed seed oil, Tamanu seed oil, false flax seed oil, camellia seed oil,

[0253] 20 capryl ic / capric triglyceride, Safflower seed oil, coco-caprylate / caprate, Coconut oil, pre-emulsified coconut oil, hazel seed oil, Crambe seed oil, Cotton seed oil, Sunflower seed oil, Sea Buckthorn oil, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isonanonoate, isopropyl palmitate, jojoba esters, lanolin oil and lanolin derivatives, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) seed oil, Linseed seed oil, Macadamia seed oil, Moringa seed oil, Evening Primrose oil, Olive fruit oil, Babassu seed oil, Rice germ oil,

[0254] 25 Avocado oil, Sacha inchi seed oil, Sweet Almond oil, Castor seed oil, Rosehip seed oil, Chia seed oil, Sage oil, Mongongo kernel oil, Marula seed oil, Sesame seed oil, Sal seed oil, Jojoba seed oil, squalane, Thyme oil, algae oil, Wheat germ oil, Grapeseed oil, Corn oil, aloe butter, avocado butter, bacuri butter, cocoa butter, coconut butter, coffee bean butter, cupuagu butter, hemp seed butter, illipe butter, kokum butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter, mochacchino butter, murumuru butter, olive butter, pistachio nut butter, refined butter, shea butter, sweet almond butter, tucuma butter, ucuuba butter, or a combination thereof.

[0255] Humectant

[0256] The hair treatment composition can further comprise a humectant. The humectant can be present

[0257] 35 in an amount of 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably 1 .0 to 35% by weight, more preferably 1 .5 to P0001006WQ

[0258] 22

[0259] 30% by weight, even more preferably 5.0 to 25% by weight, still more preferably, 15 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0260] 5 The humectant can be employed to assist in moisturization effects of the cleansing composition. The humectants can generally be polyhydric alcohol type materials. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol (i.e., glycerine or glycerin), propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol (e.g., PPG-9), polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,3- butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol, or

[0261] 10 a combination thereof. Most preferred is glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a combination thereof. In an embodiment, the humectant can be propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, triethylene glycol, erythritol, capryl glycol, hyaluronic acid, polypropylene glycol-7 proypyl heptyl ether, or a combination thereof. Preferably, the humectant is selected from hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or a combination thereof. In an embodiment, the humectant is glycerin and can be present in an amount of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight of the overall cleansing composition, preferably 0.001 to 0.25% by weight of the overall cleansing composition, more preferably, 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of the overall cleansing composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein. In an embodiment, the humectant is hyaluronic acid and can be present in an amount of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight of the overall cleansing composition,

[0262] 20 preferably 0.001 to 0.25% by weight of the overall cleansing composition, more preferably, 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of the overall cleansing composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein. In an embodiment, the humectant is glycerin and is present in an amount of 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 25% by weight, more preferably 15 to 20% by weight of the overall composition.

[0263] 25

[0264] Amino Acid

[0265] The hair treatment compositions can include an amino acid that can be a basic amino acid, an acidic amino acid, an aliphatic amino acid, an aromatic amino acid, a neutral amino acid, or a combination thereof. The term “amino acid” denotes a molecule containing both an amino group and a carboxyl group. The amino acid may belong to the L- or D-series or may be racemic.

[0266] Basic Amino Acid

[0267] The hair treatment compositions can comprise a basic amino acid. The term “basic amino acid” denotes an amino acid which contains more basic groups (such as amino, amidino or guanidino)

[0268] 35 than carboxylic groups. Examples of such basic amino acids are natural and unnatural diamino- P0001006WQ

[0269] 23 monocarboxylic acids, such as alpha, beta-diaminopropionic acid; alpha, gamma-diaminobutyric acid; lysine, arginine, histidine, ornithine, and p-aminophenylalanine.

[0270] The basic amino acids are often isolated from natural sources in the form of salts and hydrosalts,

[0271] 5 which are also suitable for use. Such salts and hydrosalts are formed by reaction with mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carbonic acid, sulphuric acid, nitric acid, and the like, or the organic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, lauric acid, chloroacetic acid and the like. An example is arginine hydrochloride.

[0272] It is also possible to employ other derivatives such as N-substituted derivatives and peptide derivatives. These too may be used as salts or hydrosalts. Examples of N-substituted derivatives are N-alkanoyl derivatives and N-alkyl derivatives. Typically, in an N-alkanoyl derivative, the alkanoyl group will have an alkyl chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example N-butanoyl, N-hexanoyl and N-octanoyl. In an N-alkyl derivative, the alkyl group

[0273] 15 will typically have an alkyl chain length of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, for example methyl, ethyl and n-propyl. Examples of peptide derivatives are those in which the peptide residue comprises from 2 to 8 amino acid residues or substituted amino acid residues.

[0274] Mixtures of any of the above-described materials may also be used in the hair treatment composition.

[0275] 20

[0276] Preferred basic amino acids for use in the hair treatment compositions include arginine (e.g., L- arginine), histidine (e.g., L-histidine), or a combination thereof.

[0277] The total amount of basic amino acid in hair treatment compositions can be 0.005 to 10%, for

[0278] 25 example, 0.05 to 1%, for example, 0.01 to 0.04% by total weight basic amino acid based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0279] Acidic Amino Acid

[0280] The hair treatment compositions can comprise an acidic amino acid. Acidic amino acids are those

[0281] 30 with acidic side chains, specifically containing carboxylic acid groups with pKa measurements low enough to lose protons and become negatively charged. Acidic amino acids are also by their nature hydrophilic amino acids (meaning they like water, as opposed to hydrophobic amino acids), and polar amino acids (meaning they are positively charged, as opposed to nonpolar amino acids). P0001006WQ

[0282] 24

[0283] The acidic amino acid can comprise aspartic acid, glutamic acid (e.g., L-glutamic acid), or a combination thereof.

[0284] The total amount of acidic amino acid in the hair treatment compositions can be from 0.005 to 10%,

[0285] 5 for example, 0.01 to 0.04%, for example, 0.01 to 0.03% by total weight acidic amino acid based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0286] Aliphatic Amino Acid

[0287] The hair treatment compositions can comprise an aliphatic amino acid.

[0288] 10

[0289] The term “aliphatic amino acid” denotes an amino acid having an aliphatic side chain.

[0290] Examples of suitable aliphatic amino acids for use have the general formula: CH(COOH)(NHR1)(R2) in which R1 is hydrogen or an alkyl group having an alkyl chain length of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 is hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0291] In preferred aliphatic amino acids for use, R1 is an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and R2 is selected from H, — CH3, — CH(CH3)2, — CH2CH(CH3)2and — CH(CH3)— CH2CH3.

[0292] The aliphatic amino acid can comprise alanine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, valine, or a

[0293] 20 combination thereof.

[0294] Mixtures of any of the above-described materials may also be used in the hair treatment compositions.

[0295] 25 The total amount of aliphatic amino acid in the hair treatment compositions can be from 0.005 to 10%, for example, 0.01 to 0.04% by total weight aliphatic amino acid based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0296] Aromatic Amino Acid

[0297] The hair treatment compositions can comprise an aromatic amino acid. Aromatic amino acids (AAAs) are amino acids that include an aromatic ring.

[0298] The aromatic amino acid can comprise phenylalanine, tryptophan, tyrosine, or a combination thereof.

[0299] 35 P0001006WQ

[0300] 25

[0301] The total amount of aromatic amino acid in the hair treatment compositions can be from 0.005 to 10%, for example, 0.01 to 0.04% by total weight aromatic amino acid based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0302] 5 Neutral Amino Acid

[0303] The hair treatment compositions can comprise a neutral amino acid. Neutral amino acids contain an equal number of amino and carboxyl groups.

[0304] The neutral amino acid can comprise asparagine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, serine, threonine, or a combination thereof. A preferred material can be N-methyl glycine (also known as sarcosine).

[0305] The total amount of neutral amino acid in the hair treatment compositions can be from 0.005 to 10%, for example, 0.01 to 0.05%, for example, 0.1 to 0.02%, for example, 0.1 to 0.01%, for example, 0.01 to 0.05% by total weight neutral amino acid based on the total weight of the composition, including

[0306] 15 any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0307] Fiber Active

[0308] A fiber active can be present in the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein. Fiber actives can penetrate into the hair fiber to occlude water adsorption sites by steric means. The ability to

[0309] 20 lower the moisture content can result in higher biomechanical properties, e.g., stronger hair. This mechanism works best at low pH due to have optimum penetration into the hair fiber. The smaller the molecule, the better the penetration. For example, carboxylic acid-citric acid can penetrate the hair and bind with matrix proteins thereby swelling and increasing smoother hair and less frizz. The same can be true with gluconolactone which converts to gluconic acid. The fiber actives

[0310] 25 penetrate into the hair fiber and influence changes such as modifying the proteins or creating internal bonds and can also provide for increased fiber stiffness. Acids such as fiber actives have an affinity for hair and can reduce water uptake by blocking sites where water would otherwise adsorb.

[0311] 30 The fiber active can be a vegan fiber active. The fiber active can comprise a tricarboxylic acid (citric acid), gluconate, or a combination thereof. The fiber active can comprise a tricarboxylic acid, sodium gluconate, or a combination thereof. P0001006WQ

[0312] 26

[0313] The fiber active can comprise gluconic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, glycolic acid, adipic acid, or a combination thereof; preferably wherein the gluconic acid comprises sodium gluconate and preferably wherein the citric acid comprises sodium citrate.

[0314] 5 The fiber active can be present in an amount of 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, for example, 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, for example, 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein. The fiber active can be a vegan fiber active in an amount of 0.01 to 1 .0% by weight of the overall fiber active.

[0315] 10 Form of Composition

[0316] The hair treatment compositions can take the form of a shampoo, conditioner (rinse-off, leavein), mask, serum, cream, leave-on cream, a spray, a hair oil, or a pre-treatment for pre-wash or post-wash use. Typically, hair oils will predominantly comprise water-insoluble oily conditioning materials, such as triglycerides, mineral oil and mixtures thereof.

[0317] The hair treatment compositions can also take the form of a hair lotion, typically for use in between washes. Lotions are aqueous emulsions comprising water-insoluble oily conditioning materials. Desirable surfactants can also be included in lotions to improve their stability to phase separation.

[0318] 20 The hair treatment composition can be in the form of a shampoo, a rinse-off hair conditioner, a hair mask, a leave-in conditioner composition, and a leave-on cream. The hair treatment composition can have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably, 3 to 6, more preferably, 3 to 5.

[0319] Other Components

[0320] 25 Hair treatment compositions, particularly water-based shampoos and hair conditioners can also contain one or more silicone conditioning agents.

[0321] Particularly preferred silicone conditioning agents are silicone emulsions such as those formed from silicones such as polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone, polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol, and amino-functional polydimethyl siloxanes which have the CTFA designation amodimethicone.

[0322] The emulsion droplets may typically have a Sauter mean droplet diameter (Da,2) in the

[0323] 35 composition of 0.01 to 20 micrometers (pm), more preferably 0.2 to 10 pm. P0001006WQ

[0324] 27

[0325] A suitable method for measuring the Sauter mean droplet diameter (Da,2) is by laser light scattering using an instrument such as a Malvern Mastersizer.

[0326] Suitable silicone emulsions for use in compositions as disclosed herein are available from

[0327] 5 suppliers of silicones such as Dow Corning and GE Silicones. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsions is preferred for ease of processing and control of silicone particle size. Such preformed silicone emulsions will typically additionally comprise a suitable emulsifier such as an anionic or nonionic emulsifier, or mixture thereof, and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification process such as emulsion polymerization, or by mechanical emulsification using a

[0328] 10 high shear mixer. Pre-formed silicone emulsions having a Sauter mean droplet diameter (Da,2) of less than 0.15 micrometers are generally termed microemulsions.

[0329] Examples of suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, DC-1785, DC-1786, DC-1788 and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions / microemulsions of dimethiconol. Also suitable are amodimethicone emulsions such as DC2-8177 and DC939 (from Dow Corning) and SME253 (from GE Silicones).

[0330] Also suitable are silicone emulsions in which certain types of surface active block copolymers of

[0331] 20 a high molecular weight have been blended with the silicone emulsion droplets, as described for example in International Application No. WO 2003 / 094874. In such materials, the silicone emulsion droplets are preferably formed from polydiorganosiloxanes such as those described above. One preferred form of the surface active block copolymer is according to the following formula:

[0332] 25

[0333] HO(CH2CH2O)x(CH(CH3)CH2O)y(CH2CH2O)x H wherein the mean value of x is 4 or more and the mean value of y is 25 or more.

[0334] Another preferred form of the surface active block copolymer is according to the following formula:

[0335] (HO(CH2CH2O)a(CH (CH3)CH2O)b)2-N-CH2-CH2-N((OCH2CH(CH3))b(OCH2CH2)aOH)2 wherein the mean value of a is 2 or more and the mean value of b is 6 or more.

[0336] 35 Mixtures of any of the above described silicone emulsions may also be used. P0001006WQ

[0337] 28

[0338] The above described silicone emulsions will generally be present in a composition as disclosed herein at levels of 0.05 to 10%, for example, 0.05 to 5%, for example, 0.5 to 2% by total weight of silicone based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0339] 5

[0340] Other Ingredients

[0341] Hair treatment compositions can comprise other ingredients for enhancing performance and / or consumer acceptability. Such ingredients include fragrances, dyes and pigments, pH adjusting agents, pearlescers or opacifiers, viscosity modifiers, and preservatives or antimicrobials. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective to accomplish its purpose. Generally, these optional ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 5% by weight of the total composition.

[0342] Hair treatment compositions are primarily intended for topical application to the hair and / or scalp

[0343] 15 of a human subject, either in rinse-off or leave-in compositions, for the treatment of dry, damaged and / or unmanageable hair.

[0344] The hair treatment composition can additionally include up to 30% by weight skin benefit agents. The term “skin benefit agent” is defined as a substance which softens or improves the elasticity,

[0345] 20 appearance, and youthfulness of the skin (stratum corneum) by either increasing its water content, adding, or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients, or both, and keeps it soft by retarding the decrease of its water content. Included among the suitable skin benefit agents are emollients, including, for example, hydrophobic emollients, hydrophilic emollients, or blends thereof. Preferred benefit agents include moisturizers, emollients, sunscreens, and anti-aging

[0346] 25 compounds.

[0347] Desirably the optional skin benefit agents used in the hair treatment composition disclosed herein include niacinamide (vitamin B3), tocopherol (Vitamin E), aloe vera, alpha-hydroxy acids and esters, beta-hydroxy acids and esters, hydroxyethyl urea, polyhydroxy acids and esters, creatine, hydroquinone, t-butyl hydroquinone, mulberry, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof (including, but not limited to, Na+ and K+ salts of the same), extract, liquorice extract, resorcinol derivatives, or a combination thereof. For example, the skin benefit agent can be sodium hyaluronate. Such benefit agents, including sodium hyaluronate can be present in an amount of 0.0001 to 10%, for example, 0.001 to 6.5%, for example, 0.01 to 3.5%, and for example, 0.01% by weight, based on

[0348] 35 total weight of the hair treatment composition including all values and ranges subsumed therein. P0001006WQ

[0349] 29

[0350] Other vitamins can be used such as vitamin B2, picolinamide, panthenol (vitamin B5), vitamin Be, vitamin C, a combination thereof or the like. Derivatives (generally meaning something that has developed or been obtained from something else), and especially, water soluble derivatives of such vitamins can also be employed. For instance, vitamin C derivatives such as ascorbyl

[0351] 5 tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glycoside may be used alone or in combination with each other. Niacinamide derivatives such as nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NADH) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADPH) may be used alone or in combination with each other. Other skin benefit agents that can be used include 4- ethyl resorcinol, extracts like sage, aloe vera, green tea, sugar cane, citrus, grapeseed, thyme, chamomile, yarrow, cucumber, liquorice, rosemary extract, or a combination thereof. Electrolytes such as NaCI and / or KOI, MgCh may also be used. The total amount of optional water-soluble benefit agents (including mixtures) when present in the composition disclosed herein can be 0.0001 to 10%, preferably, 0.001 to 6.5%, and most preferably, 0.01 to 3.5% by weight, based on total weight of the hair treatment composition, including any and all values and ranges subsumed

[0352] 15 therein.

[0353] It is also within the scope of the hair treatment composition to optionally include oil soluble benefit agents. Illustrative examples of the types of oil soluble benefit agents that can optionally be used in the hair treatment composition disclosed herein include components like stearic acid, vitamins

[0354] 20 like vitamin A, D, E and K (and their oil soluble derivatives).

[0355] Other optional oil soluble benefit agents for use include resorcinols and resorcinol derivatives like 4-hexyl resorcinol, 4-phenylethyl resorcinol, 4-cyclopentyl resorcinol, 4-cyclohexyl resorcinol 4- isopropyl resorcinol or a combination thereof. Also, 5-substituted resorcinols like 4-cyclohexyl-5-

[0356] 25 methylbenzene-1 ,3-diol, 4-isopropyl-5-methylbenzene-1 ,3-diol, combination thereof or the like may be used. The 5-substituted resorcinols and their synthesis are described in commonly assigned U.S. Patent No. 10,470,986 B2.

[0357] Even other oil soluble benefit agents that can be used include omega-3 fatty acids, omega-6 fatty

[0358] 30 acids, climbazole, magnolol, honokiol, farnesol, ursolic acid, myristic acid, geranyl geraniol, oleyl betaine, cocoyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, hexanoyl sphingosine, 12-hydroxystearic acid (12HSA), petroselinic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, terpineol, thymol essential components, the dissolution auxiliary selected from limonene, pinene, camphene, cymene, citronellol, citronellal, geraniol, nerol, linalool, rhodinol, borneol, isoborneol, menthone, P0001006WQ

[0359] 30 camphor, safrole, isosafrole, eugenol, isoeugenol, tea tree oil, eucalyptus oil, peppermint oil, neem oil, lemon grass oil, orange oil, bergamot oil, or a combination thereof.

[0360] Another optional oil soluble benefit agent that may be used is a retinoic acid precursor. The

[0361] 5 retinoic acid precursor can be retinol, retinal, retinyl ester, retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate or a combination thereof. Retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate and combinations thereof are typically preferred. Still another retinoic acid precursor for use is hydroxyanasatil retinoate made commercially available under the name RETEXTRA® as supplied by Molecular Design International. The same may be used in a combination with any of the oil soluble benefit agents described herein.

[0362] When an optional (i.e., 0.0 to 1.5% by weight) oil soluble benefit agent is used in the hair treatment composition, it typically is present in an amount of 0.001 to 1.5% by weight of the overall hair treatment composition including all values and ranges subsumed therein, and for example, 0.05

[0363] 15 to 1.2% by weight, for example, 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0364] Other useful skin benefit agents include the following:

[0365] 20 (a) silicone oils and modifications thereof such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl, and aryl silicone oils;

[0366] (b) fats and oils including natural fats and oils such as jojoba, soybean, sunflower, rice bran, avocado, almond, olive, sesame, persic, castor, coconut, and mink oils; cacao fat; beef tallow and

[0367] 25 lard; hardened oils obtained by hydrogenating the aforementioned oils; and synthetic mono, di and triglycerides such as myristic acid glyceride and 2-ethylhexanoic acid glyceride;

[0368] (c) waxes such as carnauba, spermaceti, beeswax, lanolin, and derivatives thereof;

[0369] 30 (d) hydrophobic and hydrophilic plant extracts;

[0370] (e) hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, pristan and mineral oil; P0001006WQ

[0371] 31

[0372] (f) higher fatty acids such as lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, behenic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, lanolic, isostearic, arachidonic and poly unsaturated fatty acids (PLIFA);

[0373] (g) higher alcohols such as lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl, cholesterol and 2-hexydecanol

[0374] 5 alcohol;

[0375] (h) esters such as cetyl octanoate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol monolaurate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate,

[0376] 10 alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate and alkyl tartrate;

[0377] (i) essential oils and extracts thereof such as mentha, jasmine, camphor, white cedar, bitter orange peel, ryu, turpentine, cinnamon, bergamot, citrus unshiu, calamus, pine, lavender, bay, clove, hiba, eucalyptus, lemon, starflower, thyme, peppermint, rose, sage, sesame, ginger, basil, juniper, lemon grass, rosemary, rosewood, avocado, grape, grapeseed, myrrh, cucumber, watercress, calendula, elder flower, geranium, linden blossom, amaranth, seaweed, ginko, ginseng, carrot, guarana, tea tree, jojoba, comfrey, oatmeal, cocoa, neroli, vanilla, green tea, penny royal, aloe vera, menthol, cineole, eugenol, citral, Citronelle, borneol, linalool, geraniol, evening primrose, camphor, thymol, spirantol, penene, limonene and terpenoid oils;

[0378] 20

[0379] (j) polyhydric alcohols, for example, glycerine, sorbitol, propylene glycol, and the like; and polyols such as the polyethylene glycols, examples of which are: POLYOX™ WSR-205 PEG 14M, POLYOX™ WSR-N-60K PEG 45M, or POLYOX™ WSR-N-750, and PEG 7M;

[0380] 25 (k) lipids such as cholesterol, ceramides, sucrose esters and pseudo-ceramides as described in European Patent Specification No. 556,957;

[0381] (l) vitamins, minerals, and skin nutrients such as milk, vitamins A, E, and K; vitamin alkyl esters, including vitamin C alkyl esters; magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc and other metallic components;

[0382] (m) sunscreens such as octyl methoxyl cinnamate (PARSOL®I MCX) and butyl methoxy benzoylmethane (PARSOL® 1789);

[0383] 35 (n) phospholipids; and P0001006WQ

[0384] 32

[0385] (o) anti-aging compounds such as alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids.

[0386] Preferred skin benefit agents include fatty acids, hydrocarbons, polyhydric alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof, with emollients that include at least one C12 to C18 fatty acid, petrolatum, glycerol,

[0387] 5 sorbitol, and / or propylene glycol being of particular interest in one or more embodiments. The agents may be added at an appropriate step during the process of making the hair treatment compositions. Some benefit agents may be introduced as macro domains.

[0388] Other optional ingredients like antioxidants, perfumes, polymers, chelating agents, colorants, deodorants, dyes, enzymes, foam boosters, germicides, anti-microbials, lathering agents, pearlescers, skin conditioners, stabilizers, or superfatting agents, may be added in suitable amounts in the process of making the compositions.

[0389] Additional optional ingredients which may be present in the hair treatment composition

[0390] 15 compositions are, for example: fragrances; sequestering and chelating agents such as tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA), ethane hydroxyl diphosphonate (EHDP), and etidronic acid, aka 1-hydroxyethylidene diphosphonic acid (HEDP); coloring agents; opacifiers (like titanium dioxide or glycol distearate), and pearlizers such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, TiC>2, ethylene glycol monostearate (EGMS), ethylene glycol distearate (EGDS) or

[0391] 20 Lytron 621 (Styrene / Acrylate copolymer), and the like; pH adjusters; antioxidants, for example, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and the like; stabilizers; suds boosters, such as for example, coconut acyl mono- or diethanol amides; ionizing salts, such as, for example, sodium chloride and sodium sulfate, and other ingredients such as are conventionally used in hair treatment composition compositions. The total amount of such additional optional ingredients is typically

[0392] 25 from 0 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the personal cleansing formulation, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0393] Preservatives can be used in the hair treatment composition disclosed herein. Illustrative preservatives for use include sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, phenoxyethanol,

[0394] 30 hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexylglycerine, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, dimethyl-dimethyl (DMDM) hydantoin, and benzyl alcohol, or a combination thereof. Other preservatives suitable for use include sodium dehydroacetate, chlorophenesin, and decylene glycol. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts of 0.01% to 2.0% by weight of the total weight of hair treatment composition, including any and all values P0001006WQ

[0395] 33 and ranges subsumed therein. Also preferred is a preservative system with hydroxyacetophenone alone or in a mixture with other preservatives.

[0396] The hair treatment compositions disclosed herein can be free from or substantially free from

[0397] 5 sulfate, parabens, phthalate, mineral oil, and / or petrolatum.

[0398] Methods of treating hair are contemplated with the disclosed hair treatment compositions. A method of treating hair can include applying the hair treatment composition as disclosed herein in the form of a shampoo to type 3 or type 4 hair. The shampoo can be rinsed from the hair after a time period of less than 5 minutes. These two steps can be repeated at least once and then a hair treatment composition as disclosed herein in the form of a conditioner can be applied to the same hair. The conditioner can be rinsed from the hair after a period of time of less than 5 minutes. A leave-on cream as disclosed herein can be applied to the same hair. The leave-on cream can be worked through the hair and two of three strands of hair at a time can be mechanically twisted

[0399] 15 and pulled in a downward motion until all hair strands are twisted.

[0400] In another method, any shampoo and conditioner can be used before application of the hair treatment composition disclosed herein on wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled hair. In such a method, the same steps as described above occur meaning that a shampoo is applied to the hair

[0401] 20 and rinsed after a time period of less than 5 minutes and a conditioner is applied to the hair and rinsed after a time period of less than 5 minutes.

[0402] In another method, a method of treating hair can include applying the hair treatment composition as disclosed herein in the form of a shampoo to type 3 or type 4 hair. The shampoo can be rinsed

[0403] 25 from the hair after a time period of less than 5 minutes. These two steps can be repeated at least once and then a hair treatment composition as disclosed herein in the form of a conditioner can be applied to the same hair. The conditioner can be rinsed from the hair after a period of time of less than 5 minutes. A leave-on cream as disclosed herein can be applied to the same hair. The leave-on cream can be worked through and then the hair can be dried.

[0404] In another method, any shampoo and conditioner can be used before application of the hair treatment composition disclosed herein on wavy, curly, or tightly curled / coiled hair. In such a method, the same steps as described above occur meaning that a shampoo is applied to the hair and rinsed after a time period of less than 5 minutes and a conditioner is applied to the hair and

[0405] 35 rinsed after a time period of less than 5 minutes. P0001006WQ

[0406] 34

[0407] The technical properties of hair change dramatically as a function of moisture content. This occurs because water solvates secondary strength-supporting hydrogen bonds and salt bridges within the hair, which produces a decrease in mechanical properties and a swelling of fiber dimensions. Water acts as a plasticizer to protein structures in hair, reducing its resistance to breakage.

[0408] 5 Moisture retention also assists in curl elongation and retention.

[0409] The hair treatment compositions can be applied to the hair a minimum of 1 time. The hair treatment compositions can be applied to the hair 1 time to 5 times, for example, 1 time to 10 times, for example, 1 time to 20 times, for example, 1 time to 25 times.

[0410] 10

[0411] It was unexpectedly found that after one use of the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein, the hair had prolonged curl retention for 5 days or greater. It was further unexpectedly found that 5 days after application of the hair treatment composition, that the curls still had enhanced definition as compared to before product application.

[0412] The hair treatment composition provides frizz control and curl retention for greater than or equal to 24 hours, preferably greater than or equal to 48 hours, more preferably, greater than or equal to 5 days.

[0413] 20 Except where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and / or use are to be understood as modified by the word “about.” All amounts are by weight of the final composition, unless otherwise specified.

[0414] 25 It should be noted that in specifying any range of concentration or amount, any particular upper concentration can be associated with any particular lower concentration or amount as well as any subranges consumed therein. In that regard, it is noted that all ranges disclosed herein are inclusive of the endpoints, and the endpoints are independently combinable with each other (e.g., ranges of “up to 25% by weight, or, more specifically, 5% by weight to 20% by weight, in inclusive of the endpoints and all intermediate values of the ranges of 5% by weight to 25% by weight, etc.). “Combination is inclusive of blends, mixtures, alloys, reaction products, and the like. Furthermore, the terms “first”, “second”, and the like herein do not denote any order, quantity, or importance, but rather are used to distinguish one element from another. The terms “a” and “an” and “the” herein do not denote a limitation of quantity and are to be construed to cover both the

[0415] 35 singular and the plural, unless otherwise indicated herein or clearly contradicted by context. The P0001006WQ

[0416] 35 suffix “(s)” as used herein is intended to include both the singular and the plural of the term it modifies, thereby including one or more of the term (e.g., the film(s) includes one or more films). Reference throughout the specification to “one embodiment”, “one aspect”, “another embodiment”, “another aspect”, “an embodiment”, “an aspect” and so forth means that a particular

[0417] 5 element (e.g., feature, structure, and / or characteristic) described in connection with the embodiment or aspect is included in at least one embodiment or aspect described herein and may or may not be present in other embodiments or aspects. In addition, it is to be understood that the described elements may be combined in any suitable manner in the various embodiments or aspects.

[0418] All cited patents, patent applications, and other references are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. However, if a term in the present application contradicts or conflicts with a term in the incorporated reference, the term from the present application takes precedence over the conflicting term from the incorporated reference. While particular aspects have been described,

[0419] 15 alternatives, modifications, variations, improvements, and substantial equivalents that are or may be presently unforeseen may arise to applicants or others skilled in the art. Accordingly, the appended claims as filed and as they may be amended are intended to embrace all such alternatives, modifications, variations, improvements, and substantial equivalents.

[0420] 20 For the avoidance of doubt the word “comprising” is intended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of” or “composed of.” In other words, the listed steps, options, or alternatives need not be exhaustive.

[0421] The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be considered to cover all aspects as found

[0422] 25 in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy. Unless otherwise specified, numerical ranges expressed in the format "from x to y" are understood to include x and y. In specifying any range of values or amounts, any particular upper value or amount can be associated with any particular lower value or amount. All percentages and ratios contained herein are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. The various features of the present invention referred to in individual sections above apply, as appropriate, to other sections mutatis mutandis. Consequently, features specified in one section may be combined with features specified in other sections as appropriate. Any section headings are added for convenience only and are not intended to limit the disclosure in any way. P0001006WQ

[0423] 36

[0424] Examples

[0425] The following examples are merely illustrative of the hair treatment compositions disclosed herein and are not intended to limit the scope hereof.

[0426] 5 Example I

[0427] In this example, type 3 or type 4 hair of 17 different subjects was subjected to one of the following two treatment methods:

[0428] Treatment Method 1

[0429] Hair was shampooed twice and conditioned once. A panelist applied test products on soaking wet hair, one section at a time starting with the left side, then switching to the right side and applying the leave-on cream while fingering, combing, or brushing through. After the products were thoroughly applied, the panelist mechanically twisted the hair using 2 or 3 strands of hair. After the hair was completely twisted, the panelist evaluated the hair. On days 3 and 5, the

[0430] 15 panelist returned to evaluate the hair again.

[0431] Treatment Method 2

[0432] Hair was shampooed twice and conditioned once. A panelist applied test products on soaking wet hair, one section at a time starting with the left side, then switching to the right side and

[0433] 20 applying the leave-on cream while fingering, combing, or brushing through. After the products were thoroughly applied, the panelist either dried the hair or sat under a hood dryer while stretching the hair. After the hair was completely twisted, the panelist evaluated the hair. On days 3 and 5, the panelist returned to evaluate the hair again.

[0434] 25

[0435] P0001006WC

[0436] 37

[0437] Table 1 : Shampoo Composition

[0438] Table 2: Conditioner Composition Table 3: Leave-on Cream

[0439] Table 4 lists the evaluations from the panelists.

[0440] Table 4: Panelist Observations P0001006WQ

[0441] 39

[0442] As can be seen from T able 4, there was over 70% agreement for elongation of the curls, moisture, and slip for easy detangling. The same was true at 3-day follow-up for elongation, residue, shrinkage, and curl definition. At 5-days, elongation, shrinkage, moisturization, residue, and curl definition were all above 70%, indicating that the leave-on cream surprisingly delivered benefits

[0443] 5 to the type 3 or type 4 hair.

Claims

P0001006WG40CLAIMS1 . A hair treatment composition for treating type 3 or type 4 hair, comprising:1 to 10% by weight of a cationic surfactant, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition;0.5 to 10% by weight of a lipid, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, wherein the lipid comprises Baobab seed oil, Argan kernel oil, behenyl neopentanoate, borage seed oil, rapeseed seed oil, Tamanu seed oil, false flax seed oil, camellia seed oil, capryl ic / capric triglyceride, Safflower seed oil, coco-caprylate / caprate, Coconut oil, preemulsified coconut oil, hazel seed oil, Crambe seed oil, Cotton seed oil, Sunflower seed oil, Sea Buckthorn oil, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isonanonoate, isopropyl palmitate, jojoba esters, lanolin oil and lanolin derivatives, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) seed oil, Linseed seed oil, Macadamia seed oil, Moringa seed oil, Evening Primrose oil, Olive fruit oil, Babassu seed oil, Rice germ oil, Avocado oil, Sacha inchi seed oil, Sweet Almond oil, Castor seed oil, Rosehip seed oil, Chia seed oil, Sage oil, Mongongo kernel oil, Marula seed oil, Sesame seed oil, Sal seed oil, Jojoba seed oil, squalane, Thyme oil, algae oil, Wheat germ oil, Grapeseed oil, Corn oil, aloe butter, avocado butter, bacuri butter, cocoa butter, coconut butter, coffee bean butter, cupuagu butter, hemp seed butter, illipe butter, kokum butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter, mochacchino butter, murumuru butter, olive butter, pistachio nut butter, refined butter, shea butter, sweet almond butter, tucuma butter, ucuuba butter, or a combination thereof;15 to 25% by weight of a humectant, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, wherein the humectant comprises propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, triethylene glycol, erythritol, capryl glycol, hyaluronic acid, polypropylene glycol-7 proypyl heptyl ether, or a combination thereof;0.1 to 6.0% by weight of a fiber active, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, wherein the 0.01 to 1.0% by weight of the fiber active is a vegan fiber active, based on the weight of the fiber active, preferably wherein the fiber active comprises a tricarboxylic acid, gluconate, or a combination thereof, more preferably wherein the fiber active comprises a tricarboxylic acid, sodium gluconate, or a combination thereof;0.25 to 20% by weight of a cationic polymer, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition, wherein the cationic polymer comprises cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers, mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, cationic polyacrylamides, polyvinyl pyrrolidone-methyacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, or a combination thereof; andP0001006WC41 water, wherein the hair treatment composition treats type 3 or type 4 hair.

2. The hair treatment composition of Claim 1 , wherein the cationic surfactant comprises a quaternary ammonium, an amine salt, or a combination thereof, preferably wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldi methyl benzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleammonium chloride and the corresponding hydroxides thereof, stearamido- propyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylmine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachid-amidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and or a combination thereof.,..

3. The hair treatment composition of Claim 1 , wherein the cationic polymer comprises polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with a trimethyl ammonium substitute (PQ-10), polymeric quaternary ammonium slat of diethyl sulfate and a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate (PQ-11), polyvinyl pyrrolidone-methyacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride (PQ-28), or a combination thereof.

4. The hair treatment composition of any of the preceding claims, further comprising a fatty alcohol, wherein the fatty alcohol is a Cs to C22 fatty alcohol.

5. The hair treatment composition of Claim 4, wherein the fatty alcohol comprises cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a combination thereof.P0001006WC426. The hair treatment composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the hair treatment composition is selected from a rinse-off hair conditioner, a hair mask, a leave-in conditioner composition, a cream, a leave-on cream, a spray, and a pre-treatment composition.

7. The hair treatment composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the hair treatment composition has a pH of 3 to 7, preferably, 3 to 6, more preferably, 3 to 5.

8. The hair treatment composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein the hair treatment composition is free from sulfate, parabens, phthalate, mineral oil, and petrolatum.

9. A method of treating hair, comprising: a) applying a shampoo to type 3 or type 4 hair; b) rinsing the shampoo from the hair after a time period of less than 5 minutes; c) repeating steps a) and b) at least once; d) applying a conditioner to the same hair; e) rinsing the conditioner from the hair after a time period of less than 5 minutes; f) applying the hair treatment composition of any of Claims 1-8 in the form of a cream to the same hair; g) working the hair treatment composition through the hair; and h) mechanically twisting and pulling in a downward motion at least 2 or 3 strands of hair until all hair strands are twisted.

10. A method of treating hair, comprising: a) applying a shampoo to type 3 or type 4 hair; b) rinsing the shampoo from the hair after a time period of less than 5 minutes; c) repeating steps a) and b) at least once; d) applying a conditioner to the same hair; e) rinsing the conditioner from the hair after a time period of less than 5 minutes; f) applying the hair treatment composition of any of Claims 1-8 in the form of a cream to the same hair; g) working the hair treatment composition through the hair; and h) drying the hair.

Images