Process for dyeing keratin fibers using a composition comprising indican, henna powder, hydrolase and oxidase enzymes and water

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres using a composition C comprising: (i) indican of formula (I) and / or a powder containing same; (ii) henna powder; (iii) at least one exogenous hydrolase enzyme; (iv) at least one exogenous oxidase enzyme; and (v) water.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE: Process for dyeing keratin fibers using a composition comprising indican, henna powder, hydrolase and oxidase enzymes and water

[0003] The present invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres using a composition comprising indican and / or a powder containing same, henna powder, at least one exogenous hydrolase enzyme, at least one exogenous oxidase enzyme and water.

[0004] Technical field

[0005] Two major methods for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, and in particular the hair, are known.

[0006] The first, known as oxidation dyeing or permanent dyeing, consists in using one or more oxidation dye precursors, more particularly one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers.

[0007] The second dyeing method, known as direct dyeing or semi-permanent dyeing, comprises the application of direct dyes, which are coloured and colouring molecules that have affinity for fibres. Given the nature of the molecules used, they tend to remain on the surface of the fibre and penetrate relatively little into the fibre, when compared with the small molecules of oxidation dye precursors. The main advantage of this type of dyeing is that it does not require an oxidizing agent, which limits the degradation of the fibres.

[0008] One of the most well-known natural dyes is that resulting from the henna plant.

[0009] Henna consists of leaves of shrubs of the genus Lawsonia from the family of Lythraceae, which is based on the principle of dyeing with the active agent lawsone: 2-hydroxy-l,4-naphthoquinone.

[0010] Another very well-known natural dye is indigo (see Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, Hair preparation, point 5.2.3, 2006 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim; 10.1002 / 14356007.al2 571.pub2).

[0011] However, the colouring resulting from the combination of henna powder and indican, corresponding to the indigo precursor and / or natural powder containing same, such as indigo powder resulting from crushed true indigo leaves, generally leads to grey-green colourings that change considerably over time. The colourings resulting from these combinations are not very intense, dull, and undergo a very unsightly colour change. It is not uncommon to observe this change during the first week after dyeing, which makes this technology unpredictive.

[0012] What is more, this colouring requires large amounts of powder and water.

[0013] In addition, the colour visibility on keratin fibres generally requires a long application time of more than 45 minutes, generally from 1 hour to 24 hours.

[0014] These points make the technology unattractive because its use and rinsing are very difficult.

[0015] Furthermore, hair dyed with this combination is particularly difficult to disentangle.

[0016] The process responsible for the colouring is an enzymatic process for both henna powder and indican and / or a natural powder containing same, notably involving endogenous hydrolase enzymes, i.e. enzymes that are naturally present in these powders.

[0017] Specifically, via a first enzymatic deglucosylation reaction of the 1,4- dihydroxynaphthalene-2-glucoside and 2,4-dihydroxynaphthalene- 1 -glucoside derivatives present in the henna powder, hydrolawsone is obtained. Then, its oxidation with oxygen leads to the production of lawsone affording an intense orange to copper colouring.

[0018] In addition, via a first enzymatic deglucosylation reaction of indican, indoxyl is obtained, which, by oxidation with oxygen or via a second enzymatic reaction, is transformed into indigo yielding a purple-blue colouring.

[0019] Nevertheless, this enzymatic process is long, requires the use of hot water, and large amounts of ingredients and the colouring obtained changes over time.

[0020] There is thus a need to develop dyeing processes using a combination of henna powder and indican and / or a powder containing same, which can improve the kinetics of the enzymatic process, and therefore of colouring, and consequently that can significantly increase the visibility of the colouring in short application times, i.e. rapid colouring with good colour build-up, while at the same time affording stable, intense natural shades that do not change over time.

[0021] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges. It is thus proving to be essential to propose more sustainable cosmetic processes, thereby enabling these environmental challenges to be met.

[0022] The present invention is specifically directed towards meeting all or some of these needs.

[0023] Disclosure of the invention

[0024] A subject of the present invention is a process for dyeing keratin fibres using a composition C comprising:

[0025] (i) indican of formula (I) below: and / or a powder containing same;

[0026] (ii) henna powder;

[0027] (iii) at least one exogenous hydrolase enzyme;

[0028] (iv) at least one exogenous oxidase enzyme; and

[0029] (v) water.

[0030] The process according to the invention affords intense, chromatic and rapid colouring of keratin fibres with good colour build-up and with no colour change over time.

[0031] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

[0032] The term “at least one" means one or more.

[0033] Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0034] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “greater than” and, respectively, the term “less than” refer to an open range which is strictly greater, or, respectively, strictly less, and thus that the limits are not included.

[0035] According to the present patent application, the term “keratin fibres” particularly means human keratin fibres such as the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, and bodily hair, preferentially the hair, the eyebrows and the eyelashes, even more preferentially the hair.

[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “the hair" means head hair. This term does not correspond to bodily hairs, the eyebrows or the eyelashes.

[0037] Indican of formula (I) and / or powder containing same

[0038] As indicated previously, composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises indican of formula (I) below: and / or a powder containing same.

[0039] Indican, a colourless material, is a precursor of indigo.

[0040] Indican occurs naturally in some plants, in particular in indigo-producing plants, notably in true indigo leaves.

[0041] Preferably, as indigo-producing plants in which indican is present, mention may be made of numerous species from the following genera:

[0042] - Indigofera such as Indigofera tinctoria, Indigo suffruticosa, Indigofera arliculala, Indigofera ar recta. Indigofera gerardiana. Indigofera argenla. Indigofera indica. Indigofera longiracemosa:

[0043] - Isatis such as Isatis tinctoria;

[0044] - Polygonum or Persicaria such as Polygonum tinctorium (Persicaria tinctoria),'

[0045] - Wrightia such as Wrightia tinctoria,

[0046] - Calanthe, such as Calanthe veratrifolia, and

[0047] - Baphicacanthus such as Baphicacanthus cusia.

[0048] The true indigo leaves are preferably dried and ground into powder before being introduced into composition C applied in the process according to the invention.

[0049] Thus, according to a first preferred embodiment of the invention, indican is introduced into composition C in powder form. Advantageously, according to this first preferred embodiment of the invention, the powder containing indican of formula (I) comprises indigo powder, preferably indigo powder resulting from indigo-producing plant(s), notably from the leaves of indigo-producing plant(s), more preferentially of the genus Indigofera, and more particularly Indigofera lincloria. and better still, the powder containing indican of formula (I) is indigo powder, preferably indigo powder resulting from indigoproducing plant(s), notably from the leaves of indigo-producing plant(s), more preferentially of the genus Indigofera, and more particularly Indigofera tinctoria.

[0050] According to the invention, the powder containing indican of formula (I) is different from an indican extract of formula (I).

[0051] According to a second embodiment of the invention, indican is introduced into composition C in the form of an extract of indican of formula (I), preferably an aqueous extract.

[0052] The first embodiment is the preferred embodiment in the context of the invention.

[0053] The term “indican extract of formula (I)” means a product of maceration of indigo-producing plants in at least one aqueous and / or organic solvent.

[0054] The extract of indican of formula (I) can be obtained by mixing 1g to 100g of powder containing indican of formula (I) with 100g of an aqueous and / or organic solvent for 1 to 15 minutes at a temperature ranging from 15°C to 90°C. Then, the biomass is separated from the liquid medium, preferably by filtration, in order to obtain a filtrate comprising the indican of formula (I).

[0055] The formation of indigo from indican is the result of an enzymatic process.

[0056] A first enzymatic deglucosylation reaction (ER1) of indican of formula (I) leads to indoxyl of formula (II) below:

[0057] This enzymatic reaction also produces a glucose residue.

[0058] Next, indoxyl of formula (II) can undergo a second oxidative enzymatic reaction (ER2) to form indigo of formula (III) below:

[0059] Advantageously, the total content of indican of formula (I) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.7% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.8% to 9% by weight, better still from 0.9% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the powder containing same.

[0060] Advantageously, the total content of powder containing indican of formula (I) ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 45% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 40% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 35% by weight, better still from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0061] Advantageously, the total content of indican of formula (I) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0015% to 6.75% by weight, more preferentially from 0.007% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.024% to 3.15% by weight, and better still from 0.045% to 2.4% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0062] Henna powder

[0063] As indicated previously, composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises henna powder.

[0064] The term "henna powder" means a pure natural product originating from henna plants, reduced to fine particles by grinding or other mechanical means.

[0065] According to the invention, henna powder is different from a henna extract.

[0066] The term "henna extract" means a product of maceration in at least one aqueous and / or organic solvent.

[0067] Henna powder is obtained from Law sonia inermis leaves, preferably reduced to fine particles by mechanical grinding.

[0068] Law sonia inermis leaves include hennosides, notably 1,4- dihydronaphthalene-2-glucoside and 2,4-dihydronaphthalene- 1 -glucoside.

[0069] The formation of lawsone (2-hydroxy-l,4-naphthoquinone), the molecule responsible for the orange / copper colour of the henna colouring, can be catalysed by enzymatic reactions, from the hennosides present in the leaves of Lawsonia inermis. A first enzymatic deglucosyl ati on reaction (ER11) of 1,4- dihydronaphthalene-2-glucoside and 2,4-dihydronaphthalene-l -glucoside gives hydrolawsone and a glucose residue.

[0070] Then, a second oxidative enzymatic reaction (ER2’) gives lawsone.

[0071] Advantageously, the total content of henna powder ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 45% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 40% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 35% by weight, better still from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0072] Exogenous hydrolase enzyme

[0073] As indicated previously, composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one exogenous hydrolase enzyme (iii).

[0074] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “exogenous enzyme” means an enzyme introduced externally into the medium, i.e. added in addition to the enzymes which may be naturally present in the powder containing indican or in the henna powder used in the process according to the invention. The exogenous enzyme may be identical to or different from those which may be naturally present in the powder containing indican or in the henna powder used in the process according to the invention.

[0075] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrolase enzyme” means an enzyme which catalyses the breaking of chemical bonds by the addition of a water molecule and which are classified under the EC 3 nomenclature of the IUBMB (International Union of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, iubmb.org).

[0076] Exogenous hydrolase enzymes are involved in the enzymatic reactions ER1 and ERU as described previously.

[0077] They are notably used in the context of the invention in the process of deglucosylation (ER1 ') of the hennoside compounds present in the leaves of Law sonia inermis, into hydrolawsone, more particularly in the deglucosylation of the hennosides l,4-dihydroxynaphthalene-2-glucoside and 2,4-dihydroxynaphthalene-l- glucoside into hydrolawsone.

[0078] In addition, these enzymes are used in the process of deglucosylation of indican (ER1), present in true indigo leaves, into indoxyl.

[0079] Advantageously, the exogenous hydrolase enzyme(s) (iii) are chosen from glycosylases (EC 3.2), preferably from glycosidases (EC 3.2.1), more preferentially from beta-glucosidases (EC 3.2.1.21), cellulases (EC 3.2.1.4), and mixtures thereof. The glycosidases of the invention are glycoside hydrolase enzymes which catalyse the hydrolysis of glycosidic bonds by releasing at least one osidic compound.

[0080] For the purposes of the present invention, the glycosidases may be in solid form, notably in powder form, in solution or immobilized on a solid support.

[0081] The term “solid support” bearing one or more enzymes means a “matrix” on which one or more enzymes have been immobilized; said enzymes have retained their catalytic functions. Said enzymes are immobilized on a support by means of chemical or physical immobilization methods and remain in a defined space within which they can be used several times in a row or continuously.

[0082] As methods for immobilization of said enzymes, mention may be made of the conventional methods known to those skilled in the art (see for example “Enzyme immobilization: an overview on techniques and support materials, 3 Biotech”; 3(1): 1-9 (2013 Feb), Doctoral thesis, Ecole Nat. Sup. Chimie Montpellier, H. Jarrar, “Bioelectrodes enzymatiques pour des applications en biocapteurs et en biopiles” [“Enzymatic bioelectrodes for applications in biosensors and in biocells”] (16 / 12 / 2011) in particular chap. 1.7), such as adsorption, crosslinking, covalent grafting, encapsulation, or recognition by affinity / bioaffinity such as recognition of antigen / antibody type.

[0083] The matrices used are those known to a person skilled in the art. Mention may notably be made of i) organic polymers such as agarose, cellulose, dextrans, polymers such as polyvinyl chloride, acrylates, nylons, polystyrene, ii) inorganic materials: silica in the form of microporous glass beads and of silica gel and iii) hybrids of the two preceding matrices i) and ii) such as agarose-acrylamide and polymer-coated silica.

[0084] Preferably, the matrix is different from polysaccharides or polysaccharide derivatives.

[0085] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polysaccharide derivatives" means a compound obtained by chemical modification of a polysaccharide, and comprising at least two monosaccharides linked together by O- glycosidic bonds within the structure of said compound.

[0086] The glycosidase enzyme(s) may be of plant, animal, fungal (yeasts, moulds or fungi) or bacterial origin.

[0087] Glycosidases can also be obtained by biotechnological means. Beta-Glucosidases hydrolyse an -O-glucoside bond to beta-glucoside of a monosaccharide or oligosaccharide including a glucose portion.

[0088] These enzymes are known under the names gentiobiase, cellobiase, emulsin, elaterase, aryl-beta-glucosidase, beta-D-glucosidase, beta-glucoside glucohydrolase, arbutinase, amygdalinase, p-nitrophenyl beta-glucosidase, primeverosidase, amygdalase, linamarase, salicilinase, and beta- 1,6-glucosidase (EC number 3.2.1.21). The latter are also known as amygdalin beta-glucosidase, prunasin beta-glucosidase, vicianin beta-glucosidase, glucosylceramidase, and enzymes of cellulase type produced essentially by fungi, bacteria, and protozoa which catalyse cellulose hydrolysis.

[0089] As examples of glycosidases, mention may be made of:

[0090] - the cellulase(s) sold under the name “Cellulase from Trichoderma reesei” , for example by the company Sigma-Aldrich,

[0091] - the beta-glucosidases sold by the company DuPont under the names Multifect® CX 15L and Optimase CX 15L; glucosidases of natural origin such as almond beta-glucosidases, in particular such as sweet almond beta-glucosidase; the almond beta-glucosidase sold by the company Aldrich under the name 49290 “Betaglucosidase from almonds” lyophilized powder,

[0092] - and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Advantageously, the total content of exogenous hydrolase enzyme(s) (iii) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.00025% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.0025% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0094] Advantageously, the total content of glycosylase(s) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.00025% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.0025% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0095] Preferably, the total content of glycosidase(s) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.00025% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.0025% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Exogenous oxidase enzyme

[0096] As indicated previously, composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one exogenous oxidase enzyme (iv).

[0097] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “oxidase enzyme” means an oxidoreductase enzyme which catalyses oxidation-reduction reactions involving the transfer of electrons, preferably 4 electrons, from a given substrate to molecular oxygen (O2), thus leading to the formation of oxidized products and reactive oxygen derivatives and which are classified under the EC 1 nomenclature of the IUBMB (International Union of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, iubmb.org).

[0098] Exogenous oxidase enzymes are involved in the enzymatic reactions ER2 and ER2’ as described previously.

[0099] They are notably used in the context of the invention in the process of oxidation of hydrolawsone to lawsone (ER21), responsible for the orange colour of henna powder.

[0100] In addition, they are also used in the process of oxidation of indoxyl to indigo (ER2), which is responsible for the purple-blue colour.

[0101] Advantageously, the exogenous oxidase enzyme(s) (iv) are chosen from polyphenol oxidases (EC 1.10.3), preferably from laccases (EC 1.10.3.2), tyrosinases (EC 1.10.3.1), and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from laccases.

[0102] These laccases may notably be chosen from laccases of plant origin, of animal origin, of fungal origin (yeasts, moulds, fungi) or of bacterial origin, it being possible for the organisms of origin to be mono- or multicellular.

[0103] Laccases can also be obtained via biotechnological means.

[0104] Among the laccases of plant origin that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of laccases produced by plants that perform chlorophyll synthesis, such as those indicated in patent application FR-A-2 694 018.

[0105] Among the laccases of fungal origin, optionally obtained via biotechnological means, which may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the laccase(s) resulting from Polyporus versicolour , Rhizoctonia praticola and Rhus vernicifera as described, for example, in patent applications FR-A-2 112 549 and EP-A-504 005; the laccases described in patent applications WO 95 / 07988, WO 95 / 33836, WO 95 / 33837, WO 96 / 00290, WO 97 / 19998 and WO 97 / 19999.

[0106] For the purposes of the present invention, the oxidase enzymes may be in solid form, notably in powder form, in solution or immobilized on a solid support. Among the exogenous oxidase enzymes, mention may be made, for example, of those sold under the trade name “Laccase from Trametes versicolor". “Laccase from Agaricus bisporus" or alternatively “Laccase from Aspergillus sp". “Laccase from Rhus vernicifera". “Tyrosinase from mushroom”, for example by the company Sigma-Aldrich.

[0107] By virtue of the exogenous hydrolase enzymes and the exogenous oxidase enzymes respectively involved in the enzymatic deglucosylation and oxidation reactions, the kinetics of said enzymatic reactions are significantly increased, advantageously leading to the formation of lawsone and indigo, reducing the leave- on time and thus very significantly increasing the intensity and visibility of the colouring, while at the same time limiting the colour change over time.

[0108] Advantageously, the total content of exogenous hydrolase enzyme(s) (iv) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.00025% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.0025% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0109] Advantageously, the total content of polyphenol oxidase(s) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.00025% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.0025% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0110] Advantageously, the total content of laccase(s) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.00025% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.0025% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0111] Advantageously, the total content of exogenous hydrolase enzymes (iii) and oxidase enzymes (iv) ranges from 0.0002% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.001% to 2% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.002% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.005% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0112] Advantageously, if only one supported exogenous enzyme is used (either oxidase or hydrolase), the weight ratio between the total content of exogenous hydrolase enzymes (iii) and the total content of exogenous oxidase enzymes (iv) in composition C ranges from 0.1 to 100, preferably from 0.5 to 50, more preferentially from 0.7 to 20, even more preferentially from 0.8 to 12, and better still said weight ratio is equal to 10.

[0113] Advantageously, if no exogenous enzymes (hydrolase and oxidase) are used in supported form or if both enzymes are used in supported form, the weight ratio between the total content of exogenous hydrolase enzymes (iii) and the total content of exogenous oxidase enzymes (iv) in composition C ranges from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.5 to 5, more preferentially from 0.7 to 2, even more preferentially from 0.8 to 1.2, and better still said weight ratio is equal to 1.

[0114] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “supported enzyme” means an enzyme immobilized on a solid support.

[0115] Water

[0116] Composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises water.

[0117] Advantageously, the total content of water (v) ranges from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 35% to 90% by weight, more preferentially from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0118] Advantageously, composition C used in the process according to the invention may also comprise at least cysteine and / or isatin, notably as additional agent(s).

[0119] Additives

[0120] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may also comprise additives commonly used in cosmetics, for instance antifoams, thickeners, moisturizers, clays, mineral fillers, UV-screening agents, fragrances, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, preserving agents, silicones, waxes, mordants, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in said composition C in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0121] A person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof so that they do not adversely affect the properties of composition C. Preferably, composition C used in the process according to the invention comprises a total content of mordant(s) chosen from organic or mineral salts of iron, aluminium, titanium, calcium, manganese, copper, zinc or strontium, and mixtures of these salts, of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferentially less than 0.01% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.001% by weight relative to the weight of composition C.

[0122] More preferentially, composition C used in the process according to the invention is free of mordant(s) chosen from organic or mineral salts of iron, aluminium, titanium, calcium, manganese, copper, zinc, strontium, and mixtures of these salts.

[0123] Process

[0124] Composition C may be used on wet or dry hair, in rinse-out or leave-on mode.

[0125] Advantageously, composition C is applied at between 20°C and 50°C, preferably between 20°C and 45°C.

[0126] Composition C may optionally be applied to keratin fibres after applying a shampoo and rinsing with water.

[0127] Preferably, composition C is applied after applying a shampoo and then rinsing with water.

[0128] After applying composition C, and optionally after combing, said composition C may be left to stand on the keratin fibres.

[0129] Advantageously, composition C is left to stand on the keratin fibres for a period of less than or equal to 45 minutes, preferably less than or equal to 30 minutes, more preferentially ranging from 1 minute to 30 minutes, even more preferentially from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.

[0130] When composition C is left to stand on the keratin fibres, said keratin fibres can be covered in an occlusive manner, for example with plastic film or a cap.

[0131] After applying composition C, the keratin fibres may be rinsed with water and / or subjected to one or more shampoo washes.

[0132] Preferably, the keratin fibres are rinsed with water and then optionally subjected to one or more shampoo washes after applying composition C.

[0133] The keratin fibres can then be rinsed with water after applying a shampoo.

[0134] After applying composition C to the keratin fibres, said keratin fibres can be dried. The keratin fibres can be dried naturally or with a drying device such as a hood, a hairdryer or a Climazon. When the drying step is performed with a hood or a hairdryer, the drying temperature is above 40°C.

[0135] Preferably, if the keratin fibres are dried after the application of composition C, they are dried, in addition to a supply of heat, with a flow of air.

[0136] Advantageously, the process according to the invention does not comprise a denaturing step, such as heat denaturing, and / or separation of the endogenous enzymes from the henna powder and / or from the powder containing indican.

[0137] Specifically, the henna powder and / or the powder containing indican as described above may contain endogenous enzymes, i.e. enzymes naturally present in said henna powder and / or in said powder containing indican.

[0138] The denaturing step can be performed, for example, by heating, notably at a temperature ranging from 60°C to 200°C.

[0139] The separation step can, for example, be performed by extraction using a solvent.

[0140] The indican of formula (I) can be introduced, or not, into the composition C in the form of an extract of indican of formula (I).

[0141] Preferably, the indican of formula (I) is not introduced into the composition C in the form of an extract of indican of formula (I).

[0142] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific features, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.

[0143] Examples

[0144] Compositions A to L as described in the tables below were prepared: the amounts are expressed as g of starting material as obtained, unless otherwise mentioned.

[0145] [Table 1]

[0146] (1) sold by the company Natural Origins

[0147] (2) sold by the company Sigma-Aldrich under reference 13750

[0148] (3) 50 mg / mL aqueous solution of “cellulase from Trichoderma reesei”

[0149] (4) 50 mg / mL aqueous solution of “laccase from Trametes versicolor” (5) 50 mg / mL aqueous solution of “laccase from Agaricus bisporus”

[0150] (6) 50 mg / mL aqueous solution of “laccase from Aspergillus sp”

[0151] [Table 2]

[0152] [Table 3]

[0153] [Table 4]

[0154] Compositions A to L were prepared by mixing the henna powder with indican of formula (I), and then with water at 19°C. The mixture was then stirred vigorously for 30 seconds until a homogeneous mixture was obtained.

[0155] Glucosidase and oxidase enzymes were then added to the mixture.

[0156] The whole was homogenized with a wooden spoon, or a “maryse”-type spatula in order to make a poultice.

[0157] The poultice obtained was applied to 0.5 g locks of natural Caucasian hair containing 90% white hair locks (NW), on both sides of the locks.

[0158] The locks were then left to stand for 30 minutes at 33 °C under a transparent plastic film.

[0159] At the end of the leave-on time, the locks were rinsed with water until the dye composition had been completely removed, and were then subjected to shampoo washing, the protocol of which is described below.

[0160] The locks were then rinsed with water, before being dried with a hairdryer.

[0161] Shampoo washing protocol:

[0162] The locks of dyed hair were combed, moistened with water at 35°C and then passed between the fingers five times for 5 seconds. The locks of hair were then squeezed dry between two fingers.

[0163] A standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux) was applied uniformly to the dyed locks, in a proportion of 0.4 g of standard shampoo per gram of locks, the locks of hair being massaged gently along the length (6 passes) for 15 seconds, from the root to the end.

[0164] The locks of hair were then placed on a watch glass and left to stand for 1 minute.

[0165] Next, the locks of hair are rinsed with water while passing the locks between the fingers (15 passes). The locks of hair were then squeezed dry between two fingers.

[0166] Results

[0167] The colour build-up of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Konica Minolta CM2600d spectrophotometer (illuminant D65). In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the colour, a* indicates the green / red colour axis and b* the blue / yellow colour axis.

[0168] The colour build-up is evaluated by the colour difference AE between the non-dyed locks and the dyed locks. The higher the AE value, the greater the colour build-up.

[0169] The AE value is calculated according to the following equation:

[0170] In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured after dyeing the hair, and Lo*, ao* and bo* represent the values measured before dyeing the hair. The measurements were performed after 10 minutes of leave-on time, and then after 30 minutes.

[0171] The results are collated in Table 5 below:

[0172] It is clear from the above table that the locks of hair dyed by means of the processes according to the invention show good colour build-up, with rapid dyeing.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Process for dyeing keratin fibres using a composition C comprising:(i) indican of formula (I) below:and / or a powder containing same;(ii) henna powder;(iii) at least one exogenous hydrolase enzyme;(iv) at least one exogenous oxidase enzyme; and(v) water.

2. Process according to Claim 1, characterized in that the powder containing indican of formula (I) comprises indigo powder, preferably indigo powder resulting from indigo-producing plant(s), notably from the leaves of indigo-producing plant(s), more preferentially of the genus Indigofera, and more particularly Indigofera tinctoria, and better still, the powder containing indican of formula (I) is indigo powder, preferably indigo powder resulting from indigo-producing plant(s), notably from the leaves of indigo-producing plant(s), more preferentially of the genus Indigofera, and more particularly Indigofera tinctoria.

3. Process according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of indican ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.7% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.8% to 9% by weight, better still from 0.9% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the powder containing same.

4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of powder containing indican ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 45% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 40% byweight, even more preferentially from 3% to 35% by weight, and better still from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of indican ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.0015% to 6.75% by weight, more preferentially from 0.007% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.024% to 3.15% by weight, and better still from 0.045% to 2.4% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of henna powder ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 45% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 40% by weight, even more preferentially from 3% to 35% by weight, better still from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.

7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the exogenous hydrolase enzyme(s) (iii) are chosen from glycosylases, preferably from glycosidases, more preferentially from beta-glucosidases, cellulases and mixtures thereof.

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of exogenous hydrolase enzyme(s) (iii) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.00025% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.0025% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the exogenous oxidase enzyme(s) (iv) are chosen from polyphenol oxidases, preferably from laccases, tyrosinases and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from laccases.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of exogenous oxidase enzyme(s) (iv) ranges from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.00025% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from0.0005% to 1% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.0025% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.

11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of exogenous hydrolase enzymes (iii) and oxidase enzymes (iv) ranges from 0.0002% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.001% to 2% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.002% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.005% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of water (v) ranges from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 35% to 90% by weight, more preferentially from 40% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the indican of formula (I) is not introduced into the composition C in the form of an extract of indican of formula (I).

14. Process according to any one claims 1 and 5 to 12, characterized in that indican is introduced into composition C in the form of an extract of indican of formula (I), preferably an aqueous extract.

15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition C is left to stand on the keratin fibres for a period of less than or equal to 45 minutes, preferably less than or equal to 30 minutes, more preferentially ranging from 1 minute to 30 minutes, even more preferentially from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.

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