Cosmetic product in aerosol form comprising an assembly for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition
The use of carbon dioxide as a propellant in aerosol assemblies for cosmetic compositions addresses the issues of homogeneity and environmental impact, delivering effective and eco-friendly treatment of keratin fibers.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2025-12-11
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-02
AI Technical Summary
Existing aerosol-based cosmetic compositions for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, often lack homogeneity and even distribution, and rely on petroleum-based gases that are harmful to health and the environment, posing challenges in achieving optimal treatment and compliance with environmental regulations.
Aerosol packaging and dispensing assemblies using carbon dioxide as a propellant, comprising a container, valve, and nozzle design with specific dimensions and channels to ensure homogeneous distribution, along with a two-phase cosmetic composition that includes at least 50% carbon dioxide, providing suitable spray characteristics and ecological responsibility.
The solution achieves a pleasant feel and effective shaping of keratin fibers with good hold and volume, while being environmentally friendly, reducing the carbon footprint and avoiding harmful VOCs.
Smart Images

Figure EP2025086707_02072026_PF_FP_ABST
Abstract
Description
[0001] Cosmetic product in aerosol form comprising an assembly for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition
[0002] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic products in aerosol form comprising an aerosol assembly for packaging and dispensing any type of cosmetic composition.
[0003] More particularly, the invention relates to the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, such as the hair.
[0004] The dispensing of a cosmetic composition onto keratin fibres by an aerosol device can sometimes not be sufficiently homogeneous or sufficiently even, which does not enable optimal treatment of keratin fibres, and in particular of the hair.
[0005] Generally, an aerosol assembly for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition comprises a container containing the cosmetic composition to be sprayed and a valve for dispensing the product.
[0006] It is known to use a liquefied gas as propellant for a cosmetic composition. The liquefied gases generally include hydrocarbons, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, or mixtures thereof. Such gases originate mainly from fossil resources, which does not make it possible to meet current environmental restrictions and which are also harmful to the health of users.
[0007] Specifically, hydrocarbons have the drawback of being highly flammable and are volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that are potentially carcinogenic to humans.
[0008] Application JP 2014218448 discloses a formulation containing carbon dioxide, comprising:
[0009] - a formulation stored in a hermetic container capable of dispensing a viscous composition containing carbon dioxide;
[0010] - the formulation comprises a first agent (agent A) containing an acidifier and a second agent (agent B) containing a thickener and a carbonate;
[0011] - the first agent and the second agent are mixed in the hermetic container.
[0012] The carbonate and the acidifier react to generate carbon dioxide gas, resulting in an increase in the pressure inside the hermetic container. When part of the formulation is dispensed out of the container, the pressure inside decreases, allowing the continuation of the reaction and the generation of carbon dioxide gas which is then included in the viscous composition in the form of bubbles.
[0013] Application EP 0407308 discloses a method, a machine and a container for packaging an aerosol-generating product using CO2 as propellant. More precisely, it is a two-step process: an initial injection of CO2 at high pressure and an additional injection of CO2 with stirring.The Multifunction WD-40 product sold by WD-40 Company is known. This product is intended for the protection of metal against rust and corrosion. This product also makes it possible to repel moisture and lubricate surfaces, notably metal mechanisms of engines. However, this formulation contains a large amount of heavy oils and long-chain molecules that are very favourable to the dissolution of CO2. This explains why this type of formulation has already been used and developed with CO2.
[0014] Furthermore, proposing ecologically responsible, environmentally friendly solutions, the design and development of which take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern for contributing towards meeting global challenges.
[0015] It therefore proves essential to design products that allow the amount of materials used to be reduced and / or that allow them to be replaced with more environmentally friendly materials and / or that allow recyclable materials to be used, in order to reduce the carbon footprint of the product.
[0016] In this context, it is becoming important to replace certain materials and raw materials with alternatives that have a better environmental footprint, notably by reducing the use of products derived from petrochemistry.
[0017] The objective is to propose ecologically responsible solutions notably derived from green chemistry in order to limit the environmental impact of the products used.
[0018] The present invention is part of this approach of developing packaging and dispensing assemblies for the field of cosmetic products, and in particular hair shaping compositions such as hair sprays.
[0019] There is thus a need to improve the assemblies for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, that is devoid of petroleumbased gases or VOCs as propellant gas, while having suitable spray characteristics that make it possible to treat the keratin fibres, in particular the hair, under conditions similar to the existing cosmetic compositions.
[0020] It is also of interest for these assemblies for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition, such as a hair spray, to be able to dispense the cosmetic composition in a homogeneous and even manner, and to provide the keratin fibres with good cosmetic properties, for example shaping, washing, conditioning / care or dyeing properties; preferably to provide the keratin fibres with a pleasant feel and good shaping properties, notably volume, a good fixing power of the keratin fibres and good persistence of the hairstyle over time.
[0021] After numerous research studies, the Applicant has developed a cosmetic product, notably a lacquer product, in aerosol form comprising a specific assembly for packaging and dispensing a particular cosmetic composition, notably a hair spray, to achieve the desired spray characteristics.
[0022] The assembly for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition comprises:- a container delimiting an internal volume containing a cosmetic composition; - a cover connected to the container closing an opening of said container; - a dispensing valve mounted in the container, secured to the cover and comprising a valve body defining a chamber, a valve stem axially movable in the chamber and projecting axially out of the valve body, an end piece extending axially from the valve body into the container, a spring mounted between the valve body and the valve stem, the valve stem comprising an axial dispensing channel and at least one insert orifice opening onto the outer surface of said stem; and
[0023] - a dispensing head comprising an actuator mounted on the valve stem to enable the actuation of the valve and the dispensing of the product contained in the container, the actuator comprising a nozzle connected to the outlet of the stem by a channel for dispensing the product contained in the container.
[0024] The nozzle comprises a swirl chamber connected to the channel, at least one radial channel and an outlet orifice connected to said radial channel and having a diameter of between 0.15 mm and 0.41 mm, preferably equal to 0.23 mm.
[0025] The nozzle is defined by a total passage area through the channels of between 0.1 mm2and 0.3 mm2, said total passage area through the channels being equal to the multiplication of the number of channels, of the depth of the channels and of the minimum width of the channels.
[0026] The depth of the channels is between 0.05 mm and 0.6 mm.
[0027] The minimum width of the channels is between 0.15 mm and 0.45 mm. The total passage area corresponds to the smallest area through which the fluid must pass before being rotated towards the orifice.
[0028] Advantageously, the swirl chamber has a diameter of between 0.5 mm and 1.5 mm, preferably equal to 1 mm, and the nozzle has an atomization coefficient of between 0.5 and 1, preferably equal to 0.75, the atomization coefficient being the ratio of the total passage area through the channels to the product of the diameter of the swirl chamber and the diameter of the outlet orifice of the nozzle.
[0029] For example, the insert orifice has a diameter of between 0.25 mm and 0.61 mm, preferably equal to 0.33 mm, and a total surface area of between 0.196 mm2and 1.169 mm2, preferably equal to 0.342 mm2.
[0030] For example, the end piece comprises an opening with a diameter of between 0.25 mm and 2.5 mm, preferably equal to 0.33 mm, and the surface area of the end piece is between 0.05 mm2and 4.91 mm2, preferably equal to 0.09 mm2.
[0031] Advantageously, the number of radial channels is between 1 and 6, preferably equal to 3.
[0032] For example, the radial channels have a conical or straight shape.
[0033] Preferably, the valve stem comprises two insert orifices.According to a preferred embodiment, the valve body does not comprise an additional gas intake. “Additional gas intake” is understood to mean a hole made in the thickness of the wall of the valve body and communicating with both the chamber and the internal volume of the container.
[0034] According to one embodiment, the dispensing valve comprises a sealing washer interposed between the valve body and the cover and configured to close the insert orifice in a closed position.
[0035] The aerosol cosmetic product according to the invention comprises a two-phase cosmetic composition, preferably for shaping the hair, comprising a liquid phase and a gas phase, the two-phase composition comprising:
[0036] (i) one or more cosmetic agents in the liquid phase,
[0037] (ii) one or more solvents in the liquid phase, chosen from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof, and
[0038] (iii) a propellant both in the liquid phase and in the gas phase,
[0039] said propellant comprising at least 50% by weight of carbon dioxide, relative to the total weight of the propellant included in said two-phase cosmetic composition, and the total content of carbon dioxide in the two-phase cosmetic composition being in the range extending from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0040] Such an aerosol cosmetic product is devoid of petroleum-based gases or VOCs, while having suitable spray characteristics that make it possible to shape the keratin fibres, in particular the hair, under conditions similar to existing hair spray products.
[0041] It has also been found that when the cosmetic composition of the aerosol cosmetic product according to the invention is a hair shaping composition, the invention provides the hair with a particularly pleasant feel, and also very good shaping properties. The composition notably affords good hold of the head of hair over time under both wet and dry conditions, while giving volume to the head of hair, and without making the hairstyle rigid. In the case of curly hair, the shaping composition affords good curl definition. In particular, the shaping composition delivered by the aerosol product according to the invention gives the hairstyle a natural look, and allows fluid movement thereof. It also gives the hair a particularly soft and pleasant feel.
[0042] Another subject of the invention is the two-phase cosmetic composition, preferably for shaping the hair, comprising a liquid phase and a gas phase, and comprising:
[0043] (i) one or more cosmetic agents in the liquid phase,
[0044] (ii) one or more solvents in the liquid phase, chosen from water, organic solvents, andmixtures thereof, and
[0045] (iii) a propellant both in the liquid phase and in the gas phase,
[0046] said propellant comprising at least 50% by weight of carbon dioxide, relative to the total weight of the propellant included in said two-phase cosmetic composition, and the total content of carbon dioxide in the two-phase cosmetic composition being in the range extending from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0047] A further subject of the invention is processes for manufacturing a cosmetic product in aerosol form according to the invention, comprising at least the following steps, in the order:
[0048] a) a step of adding a cosmetic composition to the packaging and dispensing assembly, and
[0049] b) a step of pressurizing said packaging and dispensing assembly.
[0050] Another subject of the invention is a process for treating keratin fibres comprising at least one step of spraying a cosmetic composition onto said keratin fibres, by means of the packaging and dispensing assembly.
[0051] A subject of the invention is also the use of the cosmetic product in aerosol form according to the invention for the treatment of keratin fibres, preferably for shaping, for washing, for caring for / conditioning or for dyeing keratin fibres, such as the hair.
[0052] The present invention will be better understood from studying the detailed description of embodiments that are given by way of entirely non-limiting example and are illustrated by the appended drawings, in which:
[0053] Figure 1 is a schematic view of an aerosol assembly for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition according to one embodiment of the invention;
[0054] Figure 2 is a sectional view of the assembly of Figure 1;
[0055] Figure 2A is a detail view of the nozzle of the assembly of Figure 2;
[0056] Figure 3A is a sectional view of the nozzle of the assembly of Figure 2A, illustrating conical channels; and
[0057] Figure 3B is a sectional view of the nozzle of the assembly of Figure 2 A, illustrating straight channels.
[0058] In the following description, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0059] * The terms “longitudinal”, “transverse”, “vertical”, “front”, “rear”, “left” and “right” are defined according to the conventional orthogonal frame of reference for applicators, which is shown in the drawings and comprises:
[0060] a longitudinal axis X, which is horizontal and oriented from front to rear in Figure 1 ;a transverse axis Y, which is horizontal, perpendicular to the longitudinal axis X and oriented from right to left in Figure 1 ;
[0061] a vertical axis Z, which is orthogonal to the longitudinal and transverse axes X and Y and directed from bottom to top.
[0062] * The term “thickness” is understood to mean in the longitudinal direction X, the term “width” is understood to mean in the transverse direction Y, and the term “height” is understood to mean in the vertical direction Z.
[0063] * The expressions “upper” and “lower” refer to the upper part and to the lower part of the figures, in the assembled position of the packaging and dispensing assembly. * The expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith; the term “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included.
[0064] * For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “greater than” and respectively the expression “less than” are understood to mean an closed range, and therefore that the limits are included.
[0065] * According to the present application, “keratin fibres” is understood to mean in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, and body hair, preferentially the hair, the eyebrows and the eyelashes, even more preferentially the hair.
[0066] * For the purposes of the present invention, '^hair" is understood to mean head hair. This term does not correspond to body hair, the eyebrows or the eyelashes.
[0067] * For the purposes of the present invention, “polyoxyalkylenated compound” is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene and / or poly glycerol group; preferably, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups may range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups may range from 2 to 30.
[0068] * For the purposes of the present invention, “non-polyoxyalkylenated compound” is understood to mean a compound that does not comprise multiple polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene and / or poly glycerol groups.
[0069] An example of an aerosol assembly for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition is illustrated in Figure 1 and bears the general reference 1.
[0070] The packaging and dispensing aerosol assembly 1 comprises a container 10 or reservoir delimiting an internal volume Ila containing a cosmetic composition P to be sprayed onto the hair of a user, notably a cosmetic composition for shaping keratin fibres.
[0071] The internal volume Ila of the container 10 is between 70 ml and 600 ml, preferably between 140 ml and 310 ml, the volume being calculated up to the brim.The packaging assembly 1 further comprises a cover 20 for closing the container 10, a dispensing valve 30 mounted in the container 10 for dispensing the product contained in the container 10, and a dispensing head 40 mounted on the valve 30.
[0072] In the exemplary embodiment illustrated, the valve 30 is supported by the cover 20.
[0073] The cover 20 is connected to the storage container 10 by external or internal crimping. In a variant, provision could be made for the cover 20 to be connected to the container 10 by any other means, for example by screwing.
[0074] In a non-limiting manner, the container 10 comprises a body 11 provided with a closed lower end 1 lb forming a bottom and with an open upper end 11c, opposite the lower end 1 lb, forming a neck 12 provided with an opening 12a.
[0075] The neck 12 is connected to the body 11 by a junction 13 so as to be radially offset towards the inside with respect to said body 11.
[0076] Provision could also be made for the neck 12 to be connected to the body 11 by a shoulder.
[0077] “Shoulder” is understood to mean any surface that is substantially normal to the elevation axis of a cylindrical part resulting from an abrupt change in diameter.
[0078] The dispensing valve 30 extends partially inside the container 10.
[0079] The dispensing valve 30 comprises a valve body 31 and a valve stem 32 that is axially movable with respect to the valve body 31. The valve stem 32 projects axially out of the valve body 31.
[0080] The stem 32 has an internal diameter of between 3.3 mm and 4 mm, preferably equal to 4 mm.
[0081] The valve body 31 defines a chamber 33 in which the valve stem 32 is fitted. The valve stem 32, of axis Z-Z’, is able to move in the chamber 33 between a closed position of the valve, illustrated in Figure 2, and an open position.
[0082] The valve stem 32 comprises a product inlet 32a and a product outlet 32b. The dispensing valve 30 comprises a sealing washer 34 interposed between the valve body 31 and the cover 20.
[0083] The valve body 31 is continued, axially on the opposite side from the sealing washer 34, by an end piece 35 which is in communication with the chamber 33 and on which a dip tube 36 is intended to be fastened.
[0084] The end piece 35 comprises an opening with a diameter of between 0.25 mm and 2.5 mm, preferably equal to 0.33 mm.
[0085] The surface area of the end piece 35 is between 0.05 mm2and 4.91 mm2, preferably equal to 0.09 mm2.
[0086] This opening makes it possible to control the stability of the flow, which also impacts the spraying performance.An axial dispensing channel 37 is formed in the valve stem 32 and communicates, at its lower end, with a radial channel 37a or insert orifice opening onto the outer surface of said stem. The dispensing channel 37 opens onto the upper front face 32b of the valve stem 32.
[0087] In the closed position of the valve, the sealing washer 34 closes off the radial channel 37a such that it does not communicate with the chamber 33.
[0088] The insert orifice 37a has a diameter of between 0.25 mm and 0.61 mm, preferably equal to 0.33 mm.
[0089] The number of insert orifices 37a is between 1 and 2. In the case where there are two insert orifices, provision could be made to arrange them 180° to each other.
[0090] The total surface area SNI of the insert orifice 37a is between 0.196 mm2and 1.169 mm2, preferably equal to 0.342 mm2. The total surface area of the insert orifice is referred to as the outlet section of the insert orifice 37a.
[0091] The insert orifice 37a restricts the flow of the product outside the valve, which makes it possible to control the flow rate of the product.
[0092] The dispensing valve 30 is equipped with a spring 38 mounted between the valve body 31 and the valve stem 32 to hold said stem in the closed position.
[0093] The valve body 31 does not comprise an additional gas intake made in the thickness of the wall of the valve body 31 and communicating with both the chamber 33 and the internal volume 1 la of the container 10.
[0094] The additional gas intake makes it possible to add gas to the product contained in the container 10. However, the presence of an additional gas intake is not compatible with the use of carbon dioxide and the nozzle used.
[0095] Provision could be made to add an additional gas intake in the valve body 31, subject to modifying certain characteristics of the nozzle.
[0096] The cover 20 comprises an upper end wall 21, an external mounting skirt 22 and an intermediate skirt 23 continuing said wall 21.
[0097] The cover 20 further comprises a lower wall 24 extending radially from a lower end of the inner fastening skirt 23.
[0098] The external mounting skirt 22 axially continues a large-diameter edge of the upper end wall 21.
[0099] The upper end wall 21 comes to bear axially against the upper end of the container 10.
[0100] The external mounting skirt 22 of the cover is centred on the axis Z-Z’ .
[0101] The external mounting skirt 22 has a circular cross section.
[0102] The cover 20 further comprises an annular internal fastening skirt 25 which makes it possible to fasten the dispensing valve 30 to said cover 20.
[0103] The internal fastening skirt 25 extends axially from a small-diameter end of the lower wall 24.The internal fastening skirt 25 is centred on the axis Z-Z' and is surrounded radially by the intermediate skirt 23 and by the external mounting skirt 22.
[0104] In the exemplary embodiment illustrated, the dispensing valve 30 is fastened inside the internal fastening skirt 25 of the cover by riveting (“ boute rollage” in French language).
[0105] The dispensing head 40 comprises an actuator 41, for example a push-button, mounted on the valve stem 32 to enable the actuation of the valve 30 and the dispensing of the product contained in the container 10.
[0106] The actuator 41 is designed to allow the container 10 to be opened under pressure.
[0107] The spring 38 with which the dispensing valve 30 is equipped makes it possible to hold said stem 32 in the closed position in the absence of any loading of the actuator 41 by the user.
[0108] The actuator 41 comprises a nozzle 42 or insert connected to the outlet 32b of the stem 32 by a channel 43 for dispensing the product contained in the container 10.
[0109] The nozzle 42 is in fluidic communication with the chamber 33 of the valve 30.
[0110] The nozzle 42 is of swirl type.
[0111] For this purpose, the nozzle 42 comprises a swirl chamber 44 connected to the channel 43.
[0112] The swirl chamber 44 has a diameter Ds of between 0.5 mm and 1.5 mm, preferably equal to 1 mm.
[0113] The swirl chamber 44 has a depth Ps of between 0.1 mm and 0.5 mm, preferably equal to 0.25 mm.
[0114] “Depth” is understood to mean the dimension in the transverse direction Y, perpendicular to the vertical direction Z.
[0115] The nozzle 42 further comprises a plurality of radial channels 45 with respect to the extension axis of the nozzle 42 and an outlet orifice 46 through which the product is discharged.
[0116] The radial channels 45 are arranged radially around the swirl chamber 44 and extend along the transverse axis between said swirl chamber 44 and the outlet orifice 46.
[0117] In other words, the radial channels 45 enable the fluidic communication between the outlet orifice 46 and the swirl chamber, which is supplied by the valve stem 32.
[0118] The number of radial channels 45 is between 1 and 6, preferably equal to 3. As illustrated in Figure 3A, the shape of the radial channels 45 is conical. As a variant, the shape of the radial channels 45 could be straight, as can be seen in Figure 3B.The diameter Do of the outlet orifice 46 is between 0.15 mm and 0.41 mm, preferably equal to 0.23 mm.
[0119] The depth Po of the outlet orifice 46 is between 0.2 mm and 1 mm.
[0120] The total passage area or cross section through the channels Ac is between 0.1 mm2and 0.3 mm2, preferably equal to 0.1725 mm2.
[0121] The total passage area through the channels Ac corresponds to the multiplication of the number of channels, of the depth of the radial channels 45, here corresponding to the depth Ps of the swirl chamber 44, and of the minimum width Lc of the radial channels 45.
[0122] In the case of straight channels 45, the width Lc is constant over its entire length.
[0123] “Width” of the radial channels 45 is understood to mean the dimension in the XZ plane perpendicular to the radial direction.
[0124] “Length” of the radial channels 45 is understood to mean the dimension in the XZ plane parallel to the radial direction.
[0125] The calculated discharge coefficient of the nozzle is between 0.2 and 0.5, preferably equal to 0.32.
[0126] The discharge coefficient reflects the quotient between an actual flow rate and an estimated flow rate. The discharge coefficient depends on the atomization coefficient K, the diameter Do of the outlet orifice 46 and the diameter Ds of the swirl chamber 44.
[0127] The atomization coefficient K of the nozzle 42 is between 0.5 and 1, preferably equal to 0.75.
[0128] The atomization coefficient K corresponds to the ratio of the total passage area through the channels Ac to the product of the diameter Ds of the swirl chamber 44 and the diameter Do of the outlet orifice 46 of the nozzle 42.
[0129] The Solex value relating to the restrictiveness of the nozzle 42 to the passage of the flow of product is between 150 mmlLO and 350 mmHiO, preferably equal to 260 mmthO.
[0130] The Solex value corresponds to a pressure drop value measured by passing an air flow through the end piece 35 and by measuring the flow passing through said end piece 35.
[0131] The cosmetic composition:
[0132] According to the invention, the cosmetic composition included in the packaging and dispensing aerosol assembly 1 is a two-phase composition comprising a liquid phase and a gas phase.This two-phase cosmetic composition also constitutes a subject of the present invention.
[0133] According to the invention, the two-phase cosmetic composition comprises: (i) one or more cosmetic agents in liquid phase,
[0134] (ii) one or more solvents in liquid phase, chosen from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof, and
[0135] (iii) a propellant in both liquid and gas phase, said propellant comprising at least 50% by weight of carbon dioxide, relative to the total weight of the propellant included in said two-phase cosmetic composition, and the total content of carbon dioxide in the two-phase cosmetic composition being in the range extending from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0136] Cosmetic agents:
[0137] According to the invention, the two-phase cosmetic composition comprises one or more cosmetic agents in liquid phase.
[0138] Preferably, the cosmetic agent(s) of the cosmetic composition is (are) chosen from fixing agents, washing agents, conditioning agents, colouring agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0139] More preferentially, the cosmetic agent(s) of the cosmetic composition is (are) chosen from fixing agents, conditioning agents, colouring agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0140] Even more preferentially, the cosmetic agent(s) of the cosmetic composition is (are) chosen from fixing agents, conditioning agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0141] And even better, the two-phase cosmetic composition comprises one or more fixing agents in liquid phase.
[0142] Fixing agents:
[0143] The fixing agents are preferably chosen from fixing polymers.
[0144] “Fixing polymer” is understood to mean any polymer that is capable of giving shape to a head of hair or of maintaining a head of hair in a given shape.
[0145] The fixing polymer(s) may be chosen from anionic fixing polymers, cationic fixing polymers, amphoteric fixing polymers, nonionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0146] Anionic fixing polymers that may be mentioned include polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acids, and having a numberaverage molecular mass of between 500 and 5000000.The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid monomers, such as those corresponding to formula (I):
[0147]
[0148] in which:
[0149] - n is an integer from 0 to 10,
[0150] - A denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the adjacent methylene group, when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur,
[0151] - Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group,
[0152] - R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a carboxyl group,
[0153] - R3 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a -CH2-COOH, phenyl or benzyl group.
[0154] In formula (I) above, the alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms may in particular denote methyl and ethyl groups.
[0155] The anionic fixing polymers bearing carboxylic or sulfonic groups that are preferred are:
[0156] A) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts thereof, including copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide, and methacrylic acid / acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymers, in particular Amerhold DR 25 sold by the company Amerchol, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids. Mention may also be made of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, notably in aqueous dispersion, such as Luviflex Soft and Luvimer MAE which are sold by the company BASF;
[0157] B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters and acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 222944 and German patent application No. 2330956, the copolymers of this type comprising an optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit in their chain as described notably in Euxembourgian patent applications 75370 and 75371. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate.
[0158] As another anionic fixing polymer from this family, mention may also be made of the butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid branched block anionic polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 E by the company Eubrizol (INCI name AMP- Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer);C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as those comprising vinyl propionate or acetate units in their chain, and optionally other monomers such as allylic esters or methallylic esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, it being possible for these polymers to be grafted and crosslinked, or alternatively a vinyl, allylic or methallylic ester of an a- or P-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patents Nos. 1 222944, 1 580545, 2265782, 2265781, 1 564 110 and 2439798. Commercial products that fall within this category are the resins 282930, 26 13 14 and 28 13 10 sold by the company National Starch.
[0159] Mention may also be made, as copolymer derived from crotonic acid, of crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate terpolymers and in particular Mexomer PW supplied by the company Chimex;
[0160] D) polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters; these polymers may be esterified. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 2047 398, 2723248 and 2 102 113 and GB patent 839805, and notably those sold under the names Gantrez® AN or ES by the company ISP.
[0161] Polymers that also fall within this category are the copolymers of maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydrides and of an allylic or methallylic ester optionally comprising an acrylamide or methacrylamide group, an a-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain; the anhydride functions are monoesterified or monoamidated. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents 2350384 and 2357241 by the applicant;
[0162] E) polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups;
[0163] F) polymers comprising sulfonic groups. These polymers may be polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic, acrylamidoalkylsulfonic or sulfoisophthalate units.
[0164] These polymers may notably be chosen from:
[0165] - polyvinylsulfonic acid salts having a molecular mass of between approximately 1000 and 100000, and also the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, and also acrylamide or derivatives thereof, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
[0166] - polystyrenesulfonic acid salts and sodium salts, having a molecular mass of approximately 500000 and of approximately 100000. These compounds are described in patent FR 2198719;
[0167] - polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in patent US 4 128 631;
[0168] G) grafted anionic silicone polymers.The grafted silicone polymers used are preferentially chosen from polymers with a non- silicone organic backbone grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polymers with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, and mixtures thereof;
[0169] H) anionic polyurethanes, which may comprise silicone grafts and silicones bearing hydrocarbon grafts.
[0170] Examples of fixing polyurethanes that may notably be mentioned include the dimethylolpropionic acid / isophorone diisocyanate / neopentyl glycol / polyester diols copolymer (also known under the name Polyurethane- 1, INCI name) sold under the brand name Luviset® PUR by the company BASF, and the dimethylolpropionic acid / isophorone diisocyanate / neopentyl glycol / polyester diols / silicone diamine copolymer (also known under the name Polyurethane-6, INCI name) sold under the brand name Luviset® Si PUR A by the company BASF.
[0171] Another anionic polyurethane that may also be used is Avalure UR 450. It is also possible to use polymers bearing sulfoisophthalate groups, such as the polymers AQ55 and AQ48 sold by the company Eastman.
[0172] According to the invention, the anionic fixing polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer sold under the name Ultrahold Strong® by the company BASF, methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, notably in aqueous dispersion, such as Luviflex Soft and Luvimer MAE sold by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as the vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, such as the monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer sold under the name Gantrez® ES 425 by the company ISP, Luviset Si PUR, Mexomer PW, elastomeric or non-elastomeric anionic polyurethanes, polymers bearing sulfoisophthalate groups, and anionic fixing polymers of the family B), and even more particularly use is preferably made of the butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid branched block anionic polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 L by the company Lubrizol (INCI name AMP- Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer).
[0173] The cationic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a molecular weight of between 500 and approximately 5000000 and preferably between 1000 and 3000000.Among these cationic fixing polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the following cationic polymers:
[0174] - quaternized or non-quatemized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2077 143 and 2393 573;
[0175] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP;
[0176] - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP;
[0177] - quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF;
[0178] - vinylamine polymers comprising in their structure:
[0179] (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
[0180]
[0181] (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
[0182]
[0183] In other words, these polymers may notably be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
[0184] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
[0185] These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
[0186] The weight- average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3000000 g / mol, preferably from 10000 to 1 000000 g / mol and more particularly from 100000 to 500000 g / mol.
[0187] The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a nonlimiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095,Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010;
[0188] - polymers bearing a fatty chain and bearing a vinylpyrrolidone unit, such as the products sold under the names Styleze W20 and Styleze W10 by the company ISP; - chitosans or salts thereof; the salts that may be used are in particular the acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate of chitosan.
[0189] Among these compounds, mention may be made of chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight sold under the name Kytan Brut Standard by the company Aber Technologies, and chitosan pyrrolidonecarboxylate sold under the name Kytamer® PC by the company Amerchol.
[0190] The amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C distributed randomly in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or alternatively B and C may denote groups derived from carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers; B and C may also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group, or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of a polymer bearing an ethylenedicarboxylic unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been reacted with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
[0191] The amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above that are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:
[0192] 1) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group, such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, a-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in US patent No. 3 836537.
[0193] The vinyl compound may also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as diethyldiallylammonium chloride;
[0194] 2) polymers comprising units derived from:
[0195] a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by an alkyl group,
[0196] b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and
[0197] c) at least one basic comonomer such as acrylic and methacrylic acid estersbearing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
[0198] The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are groups in which the alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert- octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide and N-dodecylacrylamide, and also the corresponding methacrylamides.
[0199] The acidic comonomers are more particularly chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and also the alkyl monoesters, having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides. The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N’- dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. Use is particularly made of the copolymers of which the CTFA (4th edition, 1991) name is Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, such as the products sold under the name Amphomer® or Lovocryl® 47 by the company National Starch;
[0200] 3) crosslinked and alkylated polyaminoamides partially or totally derived from poly aminoamides of general formula (II):
[0201]
[0202] in which R4 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, a mono- or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid bearing an ethylenic double bond, an ester of an alcohol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids, or a group derived from the addition of any one of said acids with a bis-primary amine or bis- secondary-derived amine, and Z denotes a group of a bis-primary, mono- or bis- secondary poly alkylene-poly amine, and preferably represents:
[0203] a) in proportions from 60 to 100 mol%, the group (III)
[0204]
[0205] where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or alternatively x = 3 and p = 2,
[0206] this group being derived from diethylenetriamine, triethylenetetramine or dipropylenetriamine ;
[0207] b) in proportions from 0 to 40 mol%, the group (IV) below, in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the group derived from piperazine
[0208]
[0209] c) in proportions from 0 to 20 mol%, the group -NH-(CH2)6-NH-derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamines being crosslinked by addition of a difunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide, and being alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone or salts thereof.
[0210] The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid, 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid and terephthalic acid, and acids bearing an ethylenic double bond, for instance acrylic, methacrylic and itaconic acids. The alkane sultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone; the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts;
[0211] (4) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula (V):
[0212]
[0213] in which:
[0214] Rs denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group,
[0215] y and z each represent an integer from 1 to 3,
[0216] Re and R7 represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl or propyl group,
[0217] Rs and R9 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in Rio and Rn does not exceed 10.
[0218] The polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate, or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate;
[0219] 5) polymers derived from chitosan comprising monomer units corresponding to formulae (VI), (VII) and (VIII) below:
[0220]
[0221] (VI) (VII) (VIII) the unit (VI) being present in proportions of between 0% and 30%, the unit (VII) in proportions of between 5% and 50% and the unit (VIII) in proportions of between 30% and 90%; it being understood that, in this unit (VIII), Rio represents a group of formula
[0222]
[0223] in which, if q = 0, Rn, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a mono alkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue that are optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and / or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulfonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bears an amino residue, at least one of the groups Rn, R12 and R13 being, in this case, a hydrogen atom;
[0224] or, if q = 1, R11, R12 and R13 each represent a hydrogen atom, and also the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids;
[0225] 6) polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan;
[0226] 7) polymers of units corresponding to the general formula (X) that are described, for example, in French patent 1 400366:
[0227]
[0228] in which R14 represents a hydrogen atom or a CH3O, CH3CH2O or phenyl group, R15 denotes hydrogen or a C1-4 alkyl group such as methyl and ethyl, Ri6 denotes hydrogen or a C1-4 alkyl group such as methyl and ethyl, R17 denotes a C1-4 alkyl group such as methyl and ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -Ris-N(Ri6)2, Ris representing a -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH(CH3)- group, Ri6 having the meanings mentioned above,
[0229] and also the higher homologues of these groups, containing up to 6 carbon atoms;8) amphoteric polymers of the type -D-X-D-X- chosen from:
[0230] a) polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds comprising at least one unit of formula:
[0231] -D-X-D-X-D- (XI)
[0232] where D denotes a group
[0233]
[0234] and X denotes the symbol E or E'; E or E', which may be identical or different, denote a divalent group which is an alkylene group bearing a straight or branched chain comprising up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups and which may comprise, in addition to oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and / or urethane groups; b) polymers of formula:
[0235] -D-X-D-X- (XII)
[0236] where D denotes a group
[0237]
[0238] and X denotes the symbol E or E' and at least once E'; E having the meaning given above and E' is a divalent group which is an alkylene group bearing a straight or branched chain having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and comprises one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain that is optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and which necessarily comprises one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions, betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate;
[0239] 9) (Ci-Cs)alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semiesterification with an N,N-dialkanolamine. These copolymers may also comprise other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.
[0240] According to a preferred embodiment, the amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen from branched block copolymers comprising:
[0241] (a) nonionic units derived from at least one monomer chosen from C1-C20 alkyl (meth)acrylates, N-mono(C2-Ci2 alkyl)(meth)acrylamides and N,N-di(C2-Ci2 alkyl) (meth) acrylamides ,(b) anionic units derived from at least one monomer chosen from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and
[0242] (c) polyfunctional units derived from at least one monomer comprising at least two polymerizable unsaturated functional groups,
[0243] and preferably having a structure constituted of hydrophobic blocks onto which are fixed, via polyfunctional units (c), several blocks that are more hydrophilic.
[0244] Preferably, the amphoteric polymers have at least two glass transition temperatures (Tg), at least one of which is greater than 20°C and the other of which is less than 20°C.
[0245] The preferred amphoteric polymers are polymers comprising units derived from:
[0246] a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by an alkyl group,
[0247] b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and
[0248] c) at least one basic comonomer such as acrylic and methacrylic acid esters bearing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
[0249] Mention may be made in particular of the polymers sold under the name Amphomer by the company National Starch.
[0250] The nonionic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from:
[0251] - poly alky loxazolines,
[0252] - vinyl acetate homopolymers,
[0253] - vinyl acetate copolymers, for instance copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate,
[0254] - acrylic ester homopolymers and copolymers, for instance copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates, such as the products sold by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Primal® AC-261 K and Eudragit® NE 30 D, by the company BASF under the name 8845, or by the company Hoechst under the name Appretan® N9212,
[0255] - copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates, such as the products sold under the name CJ 0601 B by the company Rohm & Haas,
[0256] - styrene homopolymers,
[0257] - styrene copolymers, for instance copolymers of styrene and of alkyl (meth)acrylate, such as the products Mowilith® LDM 6911, Mowilith® DM 611 and Mowilith®LDM 6070 sold by the company Hoechst, the products Rhodopas® SD 215 and Rhodopas® DS 910 sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc, copolymers of styrene, of alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate, copolymers of styrene and of butadiene, or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of vinylpyridine,
[0258] - polyamides,
[0259] - vinyllactam homopolymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and the polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® Plus by the company BASF, - vinyllactam copolymers, such as a poly(vinylpyrrolidone / vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by the company BASF, poly(vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate) copolymers such as those sold under the name PVPVA® S630L by the company ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by the company BASF, and poly(vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate) terpolymers, for instance the product sold under the name Luviskol® VAP 343 by the company BASF, and
[0260] - poly(vinyl alcohols).
[0261] The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above have, preferably, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0262] Advantageously, the fixing polymer(s) is (are) chosen from nonionic fixing polymers, anionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0263] Preferably, the fixing polymer(s) is (are) chosen from anionic fixing polymers, such as those described above.
[0264] More preferentially, the fixing polymer(s) is (are) chosen from the following fixing polymer(s):
[0265] (a) acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer,
[0266] (b) methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers,
[0267] (c) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers,
[0268] (d) polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as the monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer,
[0269] (e) anionic polyurethanes,
[0270] (f) butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid branched block anionic polymers, (g) acrylates / octylacrylamide amphoteric copolymers,
[0271] (h) VP / DMAPA acrylates cationic copolymers,
[0272] (j) vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylamidoethyl methacrylate cationic copolymers,(k) polyvinylcaprolactams,
[0273] (l) VP / VA copolymers,
[0274] (m) polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), and
[0275] (n) mixtures thereof.
[0276] Even more preferentially, the fixing polymer(s) is (are) chosen from the following anionic fixing polymers:
[0277] (a) acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer,
[0278] (b) methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers,
[0279] (c) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers,
[0280] (d) polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as the monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer,
[0281] (e) anionic polyurethanes,
[0282] (f) butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid branched block anionic polymers, and (g) mixtures thereof.
[0283] Better still, the fixing polymer(s) is (are) chosen from crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers, the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer, AMP-Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylate copolymers, methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, butyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer, ethyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer, polyurethane-6, PPG-I7 / IPDI / DMPA copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0284] Even better still, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymer.
[0285] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of fixing agent(s) is in the range extending from 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0286] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of fixing polymer(s) is in the range extending from 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, better still from0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0287] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of nonionic and anionic fixing polymer(s) is in the range extending from 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0288] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of anionic fixing polymer(s) is in the range extending from 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0289] Washing agents:
[0290] Advantageously, the washing agents are chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0291] More preferentially, the washing agent(s) is (are) chosen from amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
[0292] “Anionic surfactant” is understood to mean a preferably non-silicone surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
[0293] In the present description, a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to give a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
[0294] The anionic surfactants may be chosen from sulfate, sulfonate and carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Of course, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.
[0295] It is understood in the present description that:
[0296] - the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO") and do not comprise any sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;
[0297] - the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3’) and may optionally also comprise one or more carboxylate functions, but do not comprise any sulfate functions; and
[0298] - the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
[0299] The carboxylate anionic surfactants that may be used therefore include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO').The carboxylate anionic surfactants may be chosen from the following compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-C3o aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof;
[0300] the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
[0301] it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0302] Use may also be made of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycosidepolycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
[0303] Preferentially, the carboxylate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
[0304] - acyl glutamates, notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 acyl glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamates, and in particular disodium stearoyl glutamate;
[0305] - acyl sarcosinates, notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate;
[0306] - acyl lactylates, notably C12-C28 or even C14-C24 acyl lactylates, such as behenoyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyl lactylate;
[0307] - C6-C24, notably C12-C20, acyl glycinates;
[0308] - (Ce-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, and notably (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates; - polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
[0309] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.
[0310] Surfactants of sarcosinate type may notably be chosen from (Ce-Cao / acyl sarcosinates of formula (I) below:
[0311] R-C(O)-N(CH3)-CH2-C(O)-OX (I)
[0312] with
[0313] - X denoting a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine, preferably a hydrogen atom, and
[0314] - R denoting a linear or branched alkyl group of 5 to 29 carbon atoms.
[0315] R preferably denotes a linear or branched alkyl group of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 20 carbon atoms.Among the (C6-C3o)acyl sarcosinates of formula (I) that may be used in the present composition, mention may be made of palmitoyl sarcosinates, stearoyl sarcosinates, myristoyl sarcosinates, lauroyl sarcosinates and cocoyl sarcosinates, in acid form or in salified form.
[0316] The anionic surfactant(s) of sarcosinate type is (are) advantageously chosen from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof, preferably from stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof.
[0317] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may also be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the AKYPO names.
[0318] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (II):
[0319] Rl-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA (II)
[0320] in which:
[0321] - R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (Cs-C9)alkylphenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical;
[0322] preferably, R1 is a C8-C20, preferably Cs-Cis, alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
[0323] - n is an integer or decimal number (mean value) ranging from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10,
[0324] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
[0325] Use may also be made of mixtures of compounds of formula (II), in particular mixtures of compounds having different R1 groups.
[0326] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are preferred are those of formula (II) in which:
[0327] - R1 denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical, - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
[0328] - n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.
[0329] Even more preferentially, R1 denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.
[0330] The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SCL')- The sulfonate anionic surfactants may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfo succinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyl taurates, acyl isethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;
[0331] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
[0332] it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0333] Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
[0334] - C6-C24, notably C12-C20, alkyl sulfosuccinates, notably lauryl sulfosuccinates;
[0335] - C6-C24, notably C12-C20, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
[0336] - C6-C24, notably C12-C20, N-acyl taurates;
[0337] - (Ce-C24)acyl isethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acyl isethionates,
[0338] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.
[0339] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type is (are) chosen from Ce-C24, notably C12-C20, N-acyl taurates, and in particular N-acyl N-methyl taurates, Ce-C24, notably C12-C18, acyl isethionates, and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
[0340] More preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type is (are) chosen from C6-C24, notably C12-C18, acyl isethionates, and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
[0341] The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSCh')- The sulfate anionic surfactants may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds;
[0342] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 28, even better still from 10 to 24, or even from 12 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
[0343] it being possible for these compounds to be (poly)oxyalkylenated, notably (poly)oxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0344] Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
[0345] - alkyl sulfates, notably C10-C24, or even C12-C22, alkyl sulfates;
[0346] - alkyl ether sulfates, notably C10-C24, or even C12-C22, alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
[0347] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
[0348] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0349] Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
[0350] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from sulfate anionic surfactants, carboxylate anionic surfactants, and mixtures of these two types of surfactants.
[0351] More preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from:
[0352] - C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C24, or even C12-C22, alkyl sulfates, - C6-C24, better still C10-C24, or even C12-C22, alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units,
[0353] - the salts of these compounds and mixtures thereof;
[0354] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.
[0355] Even more preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from Ce-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C24, or even C12-C22, alkyl sulfates.
[0356] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) ranges from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 5% to 18% by weight, better still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0357] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any anionic surfactant. In other words, the two-phase cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of anionic surfactant (0% by weight).
[0358] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition as washing agents is (are) preferably non-silicone surfactants, and may notably be optionally quatemized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbonatoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0359] Mention may be made in particular of (Cs-C2o)alkylbetaines, (Cs-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (Cs-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines, (Cs-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.
[0360] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (III) and (IV) below:
[0361] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X’ (III)
[0362] in which formula (III):
[0363] - Rarepresents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed coconut kernel oil; preferably, Rarepresents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
[0364] - Rb represents a P-hydroxy ethyl group;
[0365] - Rcrepresents a carboxymethyl group;
[0366] - M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X" represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+and X" are absent;
[0367] Ra’-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IV)
[0368] in which formula (IV):
[0369] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';
[0370] - B' represents the group -(CH2 zY', with z = 1 or 2;
[0371] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ’ , or a hydrogen atom;
[0372] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z’ ;
[0373] - Z’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra’ represents a C 10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil; preferably, Ra’ is an alkyl group, notably a C17 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
[0374] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodiumcaprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0375] By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
[0376] Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (V):
[0377] Ra’ ’ -NHCH(Y’ ’ )-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (V)
[0378] in which formula (V):
[0379] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ” or -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”;
[0380] - Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a Ci to C4 alkyl or hydroxy alkyl radical;
[0381] - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra” represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra”-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil; and
[0382] - n and n’, independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
[0383] Among the compounds of formula (V), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
[0384] These compounds may be used alone or as mixtures.
[0385] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is advantageously made of (Cs-C2o)alkylbetaines, such as cocobetaine, (Cs-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, (Cs-C2o)alkylamphoacetates, (C8-C2o)alkylamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof.
[0386] More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from cocobetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
[0387] Even better still, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, and most particularly cocobetaine.
[0388] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the cosmetic composition ranges from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0389] Conditioning agents:Advantageously, the conditioning agents are chosen from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones and non-silicone fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.
[0390] The conditioning agent(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is (are) different from the fixing agent(s) used in the same cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0391] “Cationic surfactant” is understood to mean a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the compositions according to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions within the compositions according to the invention.
[0392] The cationic surfactants may be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0393] As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may notably be made of:
[0394] ■the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la):
[0395]
[0396] in which:
[0397] the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as notably oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; and X" is an anion notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates.
[0398] The aliphatic groups Rs to Rn may be chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxy alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-Ce)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.
[0399] Mention may notably be made of tetraalkylammonium halides, notably chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride.
[0400] Mention may also be made of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium halides, and notably chlorides; notably the product sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk;■ the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (Ila):
[0401]
[0402] in which:
[0403] R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives,
[0404] R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
[0405] R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,
[0406] R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group,
[0407] X" is an anion, notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates.
[0408] Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group, and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik;
[0409] ■ the di- or triquaternary ammonium salts of formula (Illa):
[0410]
[0411] in which:
[0412] - Ri6 denotes an alkyl group comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, - R17 denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Rl6a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, Rnaand Risa, which may be identical or different, denoting hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0413] - Ri8, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
[0414] - X" is an anion notably chosen from the group of the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonates and (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
[0415] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75), which are sold by the company Finetex;■ quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, of formula (IVa) below:
[0416]
[0417] in which:
[0418] - R22 is chosen from Ci-Ce alkyl groups and Ci-Ce hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
[0419] - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27; and a hydrogen atom,
[0420] - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-Ce hydrocarbon groups R29; and a hydrogen atom,
[0421] - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups,
[0422] - r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, - rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1,
[0423] - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
[0424] - x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, - X" is an anion,
[0425] it being understood that r2 + rl = 2r and tl + t2 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15,
[0426] with the proviso that when x = 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z = 0 then R25 denotes R29.
[0427] The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
[0428] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
[0429] When R23 is a hydrocarbon group R27, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or alternatively may comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0430] When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0431] Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1.
[0432] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
[0433] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.The anion X" is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfate, a (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonate or a (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate or any other anion that is compatible with ammonium bearing an ester function. The anion X" is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulfate or an ethyl sulfate.
[0434] Use is more particularly made, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (IV a) in which:
[0435] - R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
[0436] - x and y are equal to 1,
[0437] - z is equal to 0 or 1,
[0438] - r, s and t are equal to 2,
[0439] - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, and a hydrogen atom,
[0440] - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; and a hydrogen atom,
[0441] - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
[0442] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
[0443] Among the compounds of formula (IV a), mention may be made of the salts, notably the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
[0444] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures notably of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Evonik.The two-phase cosmetic composition may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Use may also be made of the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold, for example, by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
[0445] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
[0446] As fatty amines, mention may be made of amidoamines.
[0447] The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.
[0448] “Amidoamine” is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
[0449] “Fatty amidoamine” is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not quatemized.
[0450] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
[0451] Among the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (Va) below:
[0452] RCONHR”N(R’)2(Va)
[0453] in which:
[0454] - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;
[0455] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; and
[0456] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.
[0457] The fatty amidoamines of formula (Va) are chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine sold by the company Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine,dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0458] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0459] Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from those of formula (la), (IVa) or (Va), better still from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium salts, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; even better still from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or metho sulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0460] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) is in the range extending from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 9% by weight, and better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0461] The cationic polymers that may be used as conditioning agents according to the invention are non-silicone polymers (not comprising any silicon atoms).
[0462] “Cationic polymer” is understood to mean any non-silicone polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to give cationic groups, and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to give anionic groups.
[0463] The cationic polymer(s) used as conditioning agents is (are) different from the cationic fixing polymer(s) used as fixing agents in the cosmetic composition according to the invention.The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better still of less than or equal to 4 meq / g.
[0464] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
[0465] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5xl06approximately, preferably between 103and 3xl06approximately.
[0466] Among the cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of the following polymers:
[0467] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the formulae below:
[0468]
[0469] - R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
[0470] - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0471] - R4, Rs and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0472] - Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
[0473] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a metho sulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
[0474] Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
[0475] - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
[0476] - copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
[0477] the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
[0478] - quaternized or non-quatemized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937,
[0479] dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
[0480] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;
[0481] quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,
[0482] - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci -Chalky ltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprisingapproximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba;
[0483] (2) cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.
[0484] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0485] The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.
[0486] Mention may notably be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.
[0487] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US4131576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may be made most particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, it being possible for the quaternizing agent to be notably diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose.
[0488] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
[0489] A particularly preferred cationic cellulose that may notably be mentioned is the polymer having the INCI name Polyquatemium-10.
[0490] Cationic galactomannan gums are notably described in patents US3589578 and US4031307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, notably those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, notably trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, use may be made of guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
[0491] Mention may in particular be made of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Solvay.
[0492] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, notably those comprising quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride;
[0493] (3) polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals bearing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and / or quatemization products of these polymers;
[0494] (4) water-soluble poly aminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive towards a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quatemized;
[0495] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz;(6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the poly alkylene poly amine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer;
[0496] (7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium such as the homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):
[0497]
[0498] in which
[0499] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ;
[0500] - R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
[0501] - Rio and Rn, independently of each other, denote a Ci-Ce alkyl group, a Ci- Cs hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;
[0502] - Y’ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
[0503] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) (INCI name Polyquaternium-6) for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco, and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI name Polyquaternium-7), notably sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR;(8) diquaternary ammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:
[0504]
[0505] in which:
[0506] - R13, RU, RIS and Ri6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxy alkyl aliphatic radicals;
[0507] or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri6, together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom,
[0508] or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Ci-Ce alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
[0509] - Ai and Bi represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
[0510] - X" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
[0511] it being understood that Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
[0512] in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-group, with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:
[0513] a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
[0514] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or alternatively the divalent radical CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;
[0515] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.Preferably, X" is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100000.
[0516] Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:
[0517]
[0518] in which Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X" is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
[0519] A particularly preferred compound is the one for which Ri, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known as Hexadimethrine Chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature;
[0520] (9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula:
[0521]
[0522] in which:
[0523] - Ri8, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, |3-hydroxyethyl, |3-hydroxypropyl or - CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R 18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
[0524] - r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
[0525] - X" denotes an anion such as a halide,
[0526] A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
[0527] Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADI, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol;
[0528] (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF;(11) poly amines such as Poly quart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary;
[0529] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:
[0530] (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
[0531]
[0532] (b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
[0533]
[0534] In other words, these polymers may notably be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
[0535] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
[0536] These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
[0537] The weight- average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3000000 g / mol, preferably from 10000 to 1 000000 and more particularly from 100000 to 500000 g / mol.
[0538] The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the Lupamin name by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
[0539] Preferably, the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
[0540] - polymers of family (7) and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride); and
[0541] - cationic polysaccharides.
[0542] Preferably, the total content of cationic polymer(s) is in the range extending from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0543] The silicones that may be used as conditioning agents according to the invention may be chosen from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.
[0544] The silicone(s) used as conditioning agents is (are) different from the cationic polymers as described above, and from the cationic fixing polymer(s) used as fixing agents in the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0545] “Silicone” is understood to mean any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and constituted essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones and dimethiconols.
[0546] The non-amino silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the liquid phase of the cosmetic composition according to the invention; they may be in oil, wax, resin or gum form; silicone oils and gums are preferred.
[0547] Silicones are notably described in detail in the publication by Walter Noll “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press.
[0548] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure, 1 atm), in particular from:
[0549] i) cyclic poly dialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as
[0550] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhodia;
[0551] - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the chemical structure:
[0552]
[0553] eng SgH17Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide;
[0554] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-based organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of oxy- 1,1’-bis(2,2,2’ ,2’ ,3,3’-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
[0555] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5xl0'6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.
[0556] Other silicones that fall within this category are described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers “Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone.
[0557] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), poly diarylsiloxanes, poly alkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also nonamino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene and / or poly oxypropylene groups.
[0558] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, notably polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes .
[0559] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:
[0560] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising Ce-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide; or alternatively (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200;
[0561] - thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;
[0562] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;- hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function;
[0563] - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent USA-4957732;
[0564] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP186507, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; or alternatively of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil® S201 and Abil® S255.
[0565] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Among these poly dialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:
[0566] - the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000;
[0567] - the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;
[0568] - the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60000 mm2 / s;
[0569] - the Viscasil® oils from Momentive Performance Materials and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from Momentive Performance Materials.
[0570] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA: dimethiconol), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
[0571] In this category of poly dialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by Goldschmidt, which are polydi(C i -C2o)alkylsiloxanes .
[0572] Silicones that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
[0573] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane with a hydroxyl-terminated chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by the company Dow Coming.
[0574] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from IxlO'5to 5xl0'2m2 / s at 25°C.
[0575] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names:- the Silbione® oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia;
[0576] - the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
[0577] - the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;
[0578] - the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
[0579] - the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PNIOOO and PH1000;
[0580] - certain oils of the SF series from Momentive Performance Materials, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0581] The non-amino silicones that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone).
[0582] The silicones that may be used in the cosmetic composition as conditioning agent may be amino silicones.
[0583] “Amino silicone” denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
[0584] The amino silicones that may be used according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile and cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5xl0'6to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from IxlO'5to 1 m2 / s. Preferably, the additional amino silicones are chosen from non-volatile liquid silicones (25°C, 1 atm).
[0585] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) is (are) chosen, alone or as mixtures, from the following compounds:
[0586] A) the poly siloxanes corresponding to formula (la):
[0587]
[0588] in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;
[0589] B) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (Ila):
[0590] R’aG3.a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR’ 2-b)m-O-SiG3-a’ -R’a- (Ila)in which:
[0591] - G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH, Ci-Cs alkyl, for example methyl, or Ci-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy, group, - a and a’, which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one from among a and a’ is equal to zero, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
[0592] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999, and notably from 49 to 149, and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000, and notably from 1 to 10; and
[0593] - R’, which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqHiqL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups: -NR”-Q-N(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3A’, -N+H(R”)2A’, -N+H2(R”) A’, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2A’, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A" and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A", in which R”, which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A" represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, notably a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0594] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (Ila) may be chosen from:
[0595] (i) the “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (HI):
[0596]
[0597] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999, and notably from 49 to 149, and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000, and notably from 1 to 10;
[0598] (ii) the silicones of formula (IV) below:
[0599]
[0600] in which:
[0601] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and
[0602] - Ri, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical.
[0603] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0604] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
[0605] The weight- average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol;
[0606] (iii) the silicones of formula (V) below:
[0607]
[0608] in which:
[0609] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999 and notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and
[0610] - Ri and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0611] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
[0612] The weight- average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferentially from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.
[0613] The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones, the structure of which is different from formula (IV) or (V). A product containing amino silicones of structure (IV) is sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652. A product containing amino silicones of structure (V) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing amino silicones of structure (XIV) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.
[0614] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number- average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, notably as amino silicones of formula (V), use is made of microemulsions of which the mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of microemulsions of amino silicone of formula (V) that are sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker;
[0615] (iv) the silicones of formula (VI) below:
[0616]
[0617] in which:
[0618] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and notably from 1 to 10; and- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
[0619] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol.
[0620] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Corning;
[0621] (v) the silicones of formula (VII) below:
[0622]
[0623] in which:
[0624] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and it being possible for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000, and notably from 1 to 10; and
[0625] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
[0626] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000000 g / mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200000 g / mol. A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning;
[0627] C) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (VIII):
[0628]
[0629] in which:
[0630] - Rs represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;- Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, notably a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
[0631] - Q" is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;
[0632] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;
[0633] and
[0634] - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50;
[0635] D) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX):
[0636]
[0637] in which:
[0638] - R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C2-Ci8 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
[0639] - Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, notably a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
[0640] - Rs, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-C is alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a radical -Re-NHCOR?;
[0641] - X" is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate; and
[0642] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.
[0643] These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974; mention may in particular be made of the silicone having the INCI name: Quatemium 80.
[0644] Silicones that fall within this category are the silicones sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3270, Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474;
[0645] E) the amino silicones of formula (X):
[0646]
[0647] in which:
[0648] - Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
[0649] - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
[0650] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
[0651] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
[0652] - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;
[0653] F) multiblock polyoxy alky lenated amino silicones, of (AB)ntype, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.
[0654] Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units of the following general formulae:
[0655] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R’ ’ )-R’ -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R’ -N(H)-R-] or alternatively
[0656] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-R-N(R’ ’ )-R’ -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]
[0657] in which:
[0658] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
[0659] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;
[0660] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R” is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
[0661] - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-Ci2hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R denote a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and
[0662] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-Ci2hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R’, which may be identical or different, denote an ethyleneradical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R’ denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.
[0663] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.
[0664] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
[0665] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol.
[0666] Mention may notably be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A- 843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive;
[0667] G) the amino silicones of formulae (XI) and (XII):
[0668]
[0669] in which:
[0670] - R, R’ and R”, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
[0671] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and
[0672] - m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000;
[0673]
[0674] in which:
[0675] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;- Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and
[0676] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0677] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.
[0678] Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent linear saturated alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
[0679] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII):
[0680] - x ranges from 10 to 2000, and in particular from 100 to 1000;
[0681] - y ranges from 1 to 100;
[0682] - A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and notably 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and
[0683] - Ri and R2 independently are linear saturated alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; notably chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.
[0684] A silicone of formula (XII) that is preferred is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive;
[0685] H) poly siloxanes and notably poly dimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at only one chain end or on side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):
[0686]
[0687] In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55000.
[0688] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin-Etsu.
[0689] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight- average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.
[0690] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.
[0691] In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000.
[0692] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), mention may be made of the aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Coming.
[0693] The composition according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to formula (XVIII) below:
[0694]
[0695] in which:
[0696] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better still between 50 and 80;
[0697] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better still between 1 and 5;
[0698] - R’ is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;
[0699] - R” is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; and
[0700] - R”’, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 12 to 18 carbon atoms; it being possible for said radicals to optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH.
[0701] Preferably, R’ is a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; notably a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical.
[0702] Preferably, R” is a linear divalent alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.
[0703] Preferably, the R”’, which may be identical or different, are linear saturated alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 12 to 18 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl radicals; preferentially, the R” ’ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear saturated alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, notably which are C13, C14 or C15, alone or as a mixture, and better still represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15. Preferably, the R’ ’ ’ are identical.
[0704] When it comprises one or more silicones, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more silicones chosen, alone or as a mixture,from non-volatile liquid non-amino silicones, and notably poly dialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups; and / or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones; and also mixtures thereof. Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amodimethicones.
[0705] When it comprises one or more silicones as conditioning agent, the cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably comprises the silicone(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0706] Non-silicone fatty substances may be used as conditioning agents in the cosmetic composition of the invention.
[0707] According to the invention, the fatty substances are different from fatty acids. “Fatty substance” is understood to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1 % by weight) . They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0708] The fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated, and are non-silicone fatty substances.
[0709] “Non-silicone fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and “silicone fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.
[0710] The fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. “Liquid fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa) and “solid fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point (mp) of strictly greater than 25°C (mp > 25°C) at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).
[0711] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. Themelting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).
[0712] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from Ce to Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, nonsilicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
[0713] It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly have at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30, carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carboncarbon double bonds.
[0714] As regards the Ce to Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0715] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0716] A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydro s qualene .
[0717] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0718] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFE Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or alternatively bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by thecompany Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
[0719] The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.
[0720] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0721] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid is branched.
[0722] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0723] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0724] Use may also be made of esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci to C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0725] Mention may notably be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaery thrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0726] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C<> to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that “sugar” is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds that have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described hereinbelow.
[0727] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives such as methylglucose.
[0728] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be notably chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C<> to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0729] The esters may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0730] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, notably, the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo- stearate and palmito-stearate esters.
[0731] More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters and notably of mono- or dioleates, mono- or distearates, mono- or dibehenates, mono- or dioleopalmitates, mono- or dilinoleates, mono- or dilinolenates or mono- or dioleostearates of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0732] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0733] Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.
[0734] According to one embodiment, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, liquid fatty esters comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from plant oils.The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s’1.
[0735] The solid fatty substance(s) is (are) preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
[0736] “Fatty alcohol” is understood to mean a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0737] The solid fatty alcohols may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30, carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24, carbon atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0738] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24, carbon atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0739] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradec anol); cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1 -tetracos anol); ceryl alcohol (or 1 -hexacos anol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0740] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
[0741] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0742] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.Use may also be made of the esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and the esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0743] Mention may notably be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0744] Preferably, the esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C9-C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
[0745] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting temperature of greater than about 40°C and may be up to 200°C, and having anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.
[0746] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0747] Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
[0748] Mention may also be made of C20 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.
[0749] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L Polyethylene.
[0750] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among thesewaxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso- Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and bis( 1,1,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
[0751] Use may also be made of the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim.
[0752] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
[0753] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may in particular be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
[0754] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0755] Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
[0756] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C 14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
[0757] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
[0758] - R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted by one or more Ci-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 a-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 a-hydroxy acid.
[0759] The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group.
[0760] Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0761] Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0762] As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N- [2 -hydroxypalmitoyl] aminooctadecane- 1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1, 3, 4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxy ethyl) -N- (3 -cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) amide and bis (N -hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.
[0763] The solid fatty substances are, preferably, chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0764] Butters may also be used.For the purposes of the present invention, “butter” (also called “pasty fatty substance”) is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state and comprising at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention has (have) a starting melting temperature of greater than 25 °C and an end melting temperature of less than 60°C.
[0765] Preferably, the particular butter(s) is (are) of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007. al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0766] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca lalifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. hulyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma hulyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.
[0767] Shea butter constitutes an example of a preferred butter.
[0768] In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospermum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% fatty substance, which is extracted and generally refined.
[0769] Preferably, the solid fatty substances are chosen from solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0770] Preferably, the fatty substance(s) in the cosmetic composition is (are) chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, liquid fatty esters comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, solid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, solid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or from C9-C26 fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
[0771] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of non-silicone fatty substances in the cosmetic composition is in the range extending from 0.5% to 55% byweight, more preferentially from 1% to 45% by weight, even more preferentially from 5% to 35% by weight, better still from 10% to 30% by weight, even better still from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0772] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of conditioning agent(s) is in the range extending from 0.005% to 55% by weight, more preferentially 0.1% to 40% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0773] Colouring agents:
[0774] The colouring agents that may be used in the cosmetic composition of the invention may be chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[0775] The oxidation dyes (also referred to as “oxidation dye precursors”) may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.
[0776] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise(s) one or more oxidation bases. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.
[0777] The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.
[0778] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are notably chosen from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0779] Moreover, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0780] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts.Para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, paraphenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of salts thereof.
[0781] Among the abovementioned para-phenylenediamines, preference is given in particular to para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y -hydro xypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy -para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of salts thereof.
[0782] Bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)- 1 ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1 ,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0783] Para-aminophenols that are mentioned include, for example, paraaminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
[0784] Ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned include, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
[0785] Heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned include, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
[0786] Pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned include the compounds for example described in patents GB 1 026978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0787] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[ 1 ,5 -a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3 - aminopyrazolo [1,5- a]pyrid-7 -yl)methanol, 2- (3 - aminopyrazolo [1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3 ,6-diaminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin- 4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5- (morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino] ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0788] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridines and preferably substituted on the 2 carbon atom by:
[0789] a) a (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group, it being possible for said alkyl group to be substituted by at least one hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group;
[0790] b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, such as adi(Ci -Chalky Ipiperazinium group; or
[0791] c) a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a P -hydroxy alkoxy group, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0792] The pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned include the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the addition salts thereof, the solvates and solvates of the salts, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0793] The pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned include the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR A-2733749 and DE 19543988, such as 4,5-diamino- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4.5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1 -isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3.4.5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino- l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino- 1-methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or solvates of the salts. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino- l-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.
[0794] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferentially 4.5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.
[0795] The pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned comprise diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin- 1 -yl)-6,7 -dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo [ 1 ,2-a]pyrazol- 1 -one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-dimethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-diethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin- 1 -yl)- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin- 1 -yl)- 1 ,2-diethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7 -dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, the salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof.
[0796] Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.
[0797] Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-diamino- l-(0-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[ 1 ,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.
[0798] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) is (are) chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0799] Preferably, when the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases, the total content of oxidation base(s) is in the range extending from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0800] The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.
[0801] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers.
[0802] Among the couplers that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, metadiphenols, naphthalene -based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, and also the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts thereof.Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro- 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(P-hydroxyethylamino)- 1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, l,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-l -dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, a-naphthol, 2-methyl-l-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole, 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol and 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, the solvates, the solvates of the salts, and the corresponding mixtures.
[0803] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0804] Moreover, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0805] Preferably, the coupler(s) is (are) chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0806] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) is in the range extending from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0807] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) is (are) chosen from oxidation bases, couplers, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclicbases, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0808] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye, the total content of oxidation dye(s) is in the range extending from O.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0809] The direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.
[0810] “Direct dye” is understood to mean coloured species. These are dyes which spread superficially on the fibre.
[0811] These synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes that are commonly used such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0812] Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l,4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino / benzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l-amino-3-methyl-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1 ,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 ,2-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-5 -nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethyloxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-methoxy-2- P-hydroxy ethylamino- 5 -nitrobenzene ; 1 - P-hydroxy ethyloxy- 3 -methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene ; 1 - P -hydro xyethylamino-4- P ,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene ; 1 - P,y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-P-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy -2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene;1-hydroxy-6-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.
[0813] Among the azo direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
[0814] Among the hydrazono direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87. Among the nitroaryl direct dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)- 2-nitrophenylenediamine .
[0815] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0816] Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds: 1 -N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-P-hydroxyethyl- 1 ,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, l,4-bis(P,y-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.
[0817] Among the azine direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.
[0818] Among the indoamine direct dyes, mention may be made of: 2- -hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis(P-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino- 1 ,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy- 1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl- 1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4'-N- (ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinoneimine.
[0819] The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leucoindigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamin, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechualdehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.Among the ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, haematein, haematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2-methyl-l,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and the natural extracts containing them.
[0820] More preferentially, the direct dye(s) is (are) chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, nitroaryl direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0821] When the cosmetic composition comprises at least one direct dye, the total content of direct dye(s) is preferably in the range extending from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0822] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of oxidation dye(s) and / or of direct dye(s) is in the range extending from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.002% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.005% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0823] The pigments that may be used as colouring agent may be white or coloured, mineral and / or organic, and coated or uncoated. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments, of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, and also iron, titanium or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, ultramarine pink, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, and mixtures thereof.
[0824] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of pigment(s) is in the range extending from 1% to 50% by weight, more preferentially 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one fixing agent; more preferentially at least one fixing polymer; even more preferentially chosen from nonionic fixing polymers, anionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof; better still chosen from anionic fixing polymers; and even better still chosen from:
[0825] (a) acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer,
[0826] (b) methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers,
[0827] (c) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers,
[0828] (d) polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as the monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer,
[0829] (e) anionic polyurethanes,
[0830] (f) butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid branched block anionic polymers, (g) acrylates / octylacrylamide amphoteric copolymers,
[0831] (h) VP / DMAPA acrylates cationic copolymers,
[0832] (j) vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylamidoethyl methacrylate cationic copolymers, (k) polyvinylcaprolactams,
[0833] (l) VP / VA copolymers,
[0834] (m) polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), and
[0835] (n) mixtures thereof.
[0836] According to this particularly preferred embodiment, the total content of fixing polymer(s) is preferably in the range extending from 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0837] Solvents:
[0838] The cosmetic composition included in the packaging and dispensing aerosol assembly 1 according to the invention comprises one or more solvents chosen from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof.
[0839] Preferably, the solvent(s) is (are) chosen from organic solvents.
[0840] The organic solvents are different from non-silicone fatty substances, and in particular different from the fatty alcohols, optionally used as conditioning agent.Advantageously, the solvent(s) is (are) chosen from protic solvents; and in particular from polar protic solvents.
[0841] More preferentially, the solvent(s) is (are) chosen from Ci-Cx alcohols.
[0842] For the purposes of the present invention, “Ci-Cs alcohols” is understood to mean Ci-Cs monoalcohols and Ci-Cs polyols.
[0843] The organic solvent(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition of the invention is (are) cosmetically acceptable.
[0844] By way of examples, the organic solvents may be chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or / -butanol; C2-C8 polyols; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol; and mixtures thereof.
[0845] For the purposes of the present invention, “polyol” is understood to mean an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by different carbon atoms, it being possible for this compound to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and in the liquid state at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
[0846] Preferably, the polyol(s) according to the invention is (are) acyclic and nonaromatic.
[0847] The polyols according to the invention comprise in their structure a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 8, more preferentially ranging from 2 to 6, better still from 2 to 5.
[0848] More particularly, the polyol(s) that may be used comprise(s) from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, more preferentially from 2 to 5 hydroxyl groups, even more preferentially from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups.
[0849] Preferably, said polyol(s) that may be used is (are) chosen from polyols comprising at least three carbon atoms and ethylene glycol, and is (are) preferably chosen from propylene glycol, propane- 1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane- 1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0850] Even more preferentially, the solvent(s) is (are) chosen from C2-C6 monoalcohols, C2-C6 polyols, and mixtures thereof.
[0851] Better still, the solvent(s) is (are) chosen from C2-C6 monoalcohols, and even better still C2-C4 monoalcohols.
[0852] Even better still again, the solvent is ethanol.
[0853] Most particularly preferably, the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least ethanol.According to one embodiment of the invention, the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one C2-C6 monoalcohol and at least one C2-C6 polyol. Preferably, according to this embodiment, the composition comprises ethanol and glycerol.
[0854] Preferably, the content of solvent(s) chosen from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof in the liquid phase of the cosmetic composition is in the range extending from 20% to 99% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 97% by weight, even more preferentially from 40% to 95% by weight, and even better still from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0855] Preferably, the content of organic solvent(s) is in the range extending from 20% to 99% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 97% by weight, even more preferentially from 40% to 95% by weight, and even better still from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0856] Preferably, the content of C2-C8 alcohol(s) is in the range extending from 20% to 99% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 97% by weight, even more preferentially from 40% to 95% by weight, and even better still from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0857] Preferably, the content of C2-C6 monoalcohol(s) is in the range extending from 20% to 99% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 97% by weight, even more preferentially from 40% to 95% by weight, and even better still from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0858] Preferably, the content of ethanol is in the range extending from 20% to 99% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 97% by weight, even more preferentially from 40% to 95% by weight, and even better still from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0859] The cosmetic composition of the invention may comprise water.
[0860] When the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition comprises water, the content of water is preferably in the range extending from 0.5% to 55% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 50% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 40% by weight, better still from 5% to 35% by weight, and even better still from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.Preferably, the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent, in an organic solvent(s) : water weight ratio in the range extending from 43 : 57 to 97 : 3; more preferentially, the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a mixture of water and ethanol, in an ethanol : water weight ratio in the range extending from 43 : 57 to 97 : 3.
[0861] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the content of water is less than 10% by weight; preferably less than 5% by weight; more preferentially less than 1% by weight; more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight; better still less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0862] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition does not comprise water and the solvent(s) is (are) chosen from organic solvents, preferably from C2-C6 monoalcohols and C2-C6 polyols, more preferentially from C2-C6 monoalcohols, better still from C2-C4 monoalcohols such as ethanol.
[0863] Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the invention also comprises at least one alkanolamine compound. Alkanolamine compounds comprise at least one hydroxyl group and at least one (primary, secondary or tertiary) amine group.
[0864] The alkanolamine compounds optionally used in the cosmetic composition of the invention are different from the organic solvents described above.
[0865] Advantageously, the alkanolamine compounds are chosen from those comprising a single hydroxyl group and a single amine group.
[0866] In particular, the alkanolamine compounds comprise from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. More preferentially, the alkanolamine compounds are chosen from methanolamine, ethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-l-ol, valinol, and mixtures thereof; better still 2-amino-2-methylpropan-l-ol.
[0867] Preferably, the total content of alkanolamine compound(s) is in the range extending from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0868] Preferably, the total content of 2-amino-2-methylpropan-l-ol is in the range extending from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.The propellant:
[0869] The cosmetic composition included in the packaging and dispensing aerosol assembly 1 according to the invention comprises a propellant.
[0870] According to the invention, the propellant is included in both the liquid phase and the gas phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition of the invention.
[0871] The propellant according to the invention consists of one propellant gas or of a mixture of different propellant gases.
[0872] The propellant according to the invention may consist of a mixture of carbon dioxide with another propellant gas (other than CO2).
[0873] According to the invention, the propellant comprises at least 50% by weight of carbon dioxide CO2, relative to the total weight of the propellant.
[0874] By way of example, the propellant gases that may be used for the propellant may be chosen from air, pure carbon dioxide, pure dinitrogen, and mixtures thereof.
[0875] Preferably, carbon dioxide is the sole propellant gas of the propellant. In other words, the propellant comprises 100% by weight of carbon dioxide CO2, relative to the total weight of the propellant. In yet other words, the propellant consists of a single gas: carbon dioxide.
[0876] According to the invention, the total content of carbon dioxide in the two-phase cosmetic composition, that is to say in the liquid phase and the gas phase, is in the range extending from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase cosmetic composition of the invention.
[0877] The amount of gaseous propellant(s) dissolved in the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition may be determined by conventional methods for determining the amount of a gas dissolved in a liquid, notably by calculation using the equations for Henry's law and the real gas law.
[0878] By way of example, the method for determining the amount of carbon dioxide dissolved in the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition is described below.
[0879] Determination of the total content of carbon dioxide dissolved in the liquid phase of the cosmetic composition:
[0880] Preferably, a vacuum is created in the aerosol before weighing.
[0881] A volumetric approach, complemented by the real gas law and Henry's law, is used. The value of the mass of dissolved CO2 is deduced, from an injected mass of carbon dioxide (weighed at the time of gassing), and from the equilibrium pressure P measured 48 hours after injection, in the aerosol container at 20°C, by solving the system of equations PV = Z n(CO2) RT (real gas law) / c = kH*P.To measure the pressure in the container, use may be made of a T-Meter® manometer having a graduation of 0 to 6 bar and sold by Thersane.
[0882] Preferably, the air is purged before the introduction of CO2.
[0883] Once the carbon dioxide has been injected into the container, there is a waiting period for the equilibrium pressure to be established in the can, preferably with shaking to facilitate dissolution. Then, the pressure is measured by a manometer positioned on the valve actuated in the open position. At this stage, the CO2 is in two phases: a gas phase and a phase dissolved in the liquid phase of the composition. The composition is two-phase: (1) the liquid phase with its cosmetic active ingredient(s), its solvent(s) and the dissolved CO2, and (2) the gas phase comprising the propellant in gas form.
[0884] The container which is closed by the valve (the valve cup acts as a cover) and which already comprises the cosmetic composition is weighed without the injected CO2 (initial measurement before injection).
[0885] The air is optionally purged by vacuum and the CO2 is injected either by pressure balancing (with stirring until a pressure of between 7 and 8 bar is reached), or by weight measurement until the precisely desired mass of CO2 is reached at weighing.
[0886] By calculation, Henry’s law and the real gas law can provide an amount of CO2 present in each phase (dissolved or gas), which makes it possible to characterize the solubility equilibrium. In the context of this invention, a dissolved CO2 ratio is generally found to be between 70% and 90% by weight, depending on the specific nature of the ingredients of the cosmetic composition of the invention.
[0887] All the measurements are performed at 20°C.
[0888] Henry's law is explained, for example, in Atkins' Physical Chemistry by Peter Atkins and Julio de Paula or Physical Chemistry by Ira N. Levine. The real gas theory is explained in J. M. Smith, H. C. Van Ness, M. M. Abbott, Introduction to Chemical Engineering Thermodynamics, McGraw-Hill Education. From these publications, it is possible to determine the concentrations of gases in each phase.
[0889] Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the invention is devoid of organic propellant.
[0890] For the purposes of the invention, “organic propellant” is understood to mean a propellant derived from petroleum refining (i.e. petroleum-based gas), and more preferentially chosen from volatile hydrocarbons and ethers.
[0891] The expression “devoid of organic propellant” is understood to mean that the composition does not comprise any organic propellant, or that the organic propellant(s) present in said composition is (are) included in a total content of less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, more preferentially less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, better still less than or equal 0.05% by weight, relativeto the total weight of said composition, and even better still is free of organic propellant (0% by weight).
[0892] As organic propellants or propellant gases, mention may notably be made of: volatile hydrocarbons, which are optionally halogenated (for example chlorinated and / or fluorinated); dimethyl ether; and mixtures thereof; in particular dimethyl ether, C3-C5 alkanes, trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, chlorodifluoromethane, 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane, chloropentafluoroethane, 1-chloro-1,1 -difluoroethane, 1,1-difluoroethane, 1,3,3,3-tetrafluoropropene, and mixtures thereof; and more particularly C3-C5 alkanes, such as propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane, pentane, and mixtures thereof.
[0893] The cosmetic composition included in the packaging and dispensing aerosol assembly 1 according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more additives, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators other than the fixing polymers described above; vitamins or provitamins; plasticizers other than the solvents described above; preservatives; or alternatively fragrances.
[0894] Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additives and the amount thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of the composition contained in the device according to the invention.
[0895] These additives are generally present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0896] The liquid phase of the cosmetic composition of the invention is preferably not in the form of an emulsion.
[0897] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention is devoid of surfactant. “Devoid of surfactant” is understood to mean a composition comprising a content of surfactant(s) of less than 1% by weight, more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight, better still less than 0.2% by weight, even better still less than 0.1% by weight, and even better still again less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition. Better still, it does not comprise any surfactant (0%).
[0898] More particularly, a composition devoid of surfactant does not comprise any surfactant added during its preparation; it is possible for any residual surfactants present to have originated from the starting materials used during preparation.
[0899] For the purposes of the invention, the alkanolamine compounds are not chosen from surfactants.
[0900] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention is devoid of non-silicone liquid fatty substance.“Devoid of non-silicone liquid fatty substance” is understood to mean a composition comprising a content of non-silicone liquid fatty substance(s) of less than 1% by weight, more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight, better still less than 0.2% by weight, even better still less than 0.1% by weight, and even better still again less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition. Better still, it does not comprise any non-silicone liquid fatty substance (0%).
[0901] More particularly, a composition devoid of non-silicone liquid fatty substance does not comprise any non-silicone liquid fatty substance added during its preparation; it is possible for any residual non-silicone liquid fatty substances present to have originated from the starting materials used during preparation.
[0902] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention is devoid of silicone.
[0903] “Devoid of silicone” is understood to mean a composition comprising a content of silicone(s) of less than 1% by weight, more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight, better still less than 0.2% by weight, even better still less than 0.1% by weight, and even better still again less than 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition. Better still, it does not comprise any silicone (0%).
[0904] More particularly, a composition devoid of silicone does not comprise any silicone added during its preparation; it is possible for any residual silicones present to have originated from the starting materials used during preparation.
[0905] Preferably, the density of the liquid phase of the cosmetic composition without the propellant (i.e. the solution S, defined below), at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range extending from 0.7 to 0.9; more preferentially from 0.75 to 0.88; even more preferentially from 0.80 to 0.85.
[0906] The cosmetic composition of the invention is pressurized by a propellant. During the manufacture of the cosmetic composition of the invention, the propellant in gas form is added under pressure to a solution referred to as (S) comprising (i) one or more cosmetic agents and (ii) one or more solvents chosen from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof as described above; said solution (S) being included in the packaging and dispensing aerosol assembly 1.
[0907] Preferably, the pressure in the container 10 containing the cosmetic composition is in the range extending from 200000 (2 bar) to 1 500000 Pa (15 bar); more preferentially from 300000 (3 bar) to 1 300000 Pa (13 bar); even morepreferentially from 400000 (4 bar) to 1 000000 Pa (10 bar); better still from 500000 (5 bar) to 1 000000 Pa (10 bar); even better still from 600000 (6 bar) to 1 000000 Pa (lObar).
[0908] Advantageously, the volume of the cosmetic composition is in the range extending from 30% to 90%, more preferentially from 35% to 85%, even more preferentially from 40% to 80%, better still from 50% to 70%, relative to the total volume of the container 10 containing the cosmetic composition.
[0909] The cosmetic product in aerosol form according to the invention does not spray said cosmetic composition in foam form.
[0910] The cosmetic product in aerosol form according to the invention preferably sprays the liquid phase of the cosmetic composition in fine droplets (in the form of a continuous spray).
[0911] Preferably, the volume- average diameter of the sprayed droplets of the liquid phase of the cosmetic composition (or lacquer) is in the range extending from 1 to 200 pm; more preferentially from 10 to 150 pm; even more preferentially from 50 to 100 pm; better still from 60 to 80 pm.
[0912] The volume- average diameter of the sprayed droplets of the liquid phase of the cosmetic composition can be measured according to the known method of dynamic light scattering (DLS). As device that may be used for this determination, mention may be made of the Malvern brand Spraytec model particle size analyser (laser / spray distance = 20 cm; measurement frequency = 5 Hz).
[0913] Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the invention is a composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair.
[0914] More preferentially, the cosmetic composition of the invention is a composition for shaping the hair, a composition for washing the hair such as a dry shampoo, a composition for caring for / conditioning the hair or a composition for dyeing the hair.
[0915] When the cosmetic composition of the invention is intended for shaping the hair, said cosmetic composition comprises at least one fixing agent as described above, more particularly at least one fixing polymer as described above.
[0916] When the cosmetic composition of the invention is intended for washing the hair, said cosmetic composition comprises at least one washing agent as described above.
[0917] When the cosmetic composition of the invention is intended for caring for / conditioning the hair, said cosmetic composition comprises at least one conditioning agent as described above.When the cosmetic composition of the invention is intended for dyeing the hair, said cosmetic composition comprises at least one colouring agent as described above.
[0918] Most particularly preferably, the cosmetic composition of the invention is a composition for shaping the hair, otherwise known as a styling composition.
[0919] The present invention is particularly effective when it is used for shaping keratin fibres, and in particular the hair.
[0920] Indeed, cosmetic products in aerosol form that deliver a shaping composition (or lacquers) are usually used to construct and structure the hairstyle and give it hold. The lacquers are generally applied to the hair, which is shaped before performing blow-drying or drying. However, the lacquers in aerosol form that are currently known are not entirely satisfactory, both with regard to the dispensing of the shaping product and with regard to the shaping product itself. In particular, the distribution of the shaping composition by an aerosol device is generally not sufficiently homogeneous or sufficiently even. In addition, the fixing power of the keratin fibres of these products is generally insufficient, notably in terms of persistence of the shaping of the hair. The present invention in particular solves these drawbacks.
[0921] The packaging and dispensing assembly 1 and the cosmetic composition together form a cosmetic product in aerosol form.
[0922] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres comprising at least one step of spraying a cosmetic composition as described above onto said keratin fibres, in particular the hair, by means of the packaging and dispensing assembly 1 according to the invention.
[0923] Preferably, the treatment process according to the invention is a process for shaping keratin fibres, in particular the hair.
[0924] In an embodiment of the process according to the invention, the cosmetic composition is sprayed onto wet hair.
[0925] In another embodiment of the process according to the invention, the cosmetic composition is sprayed onto dry hair.
[0926] Preferably, the application of the cosmetic composition in aerosol form to the keratin fibres is not followed by rinsing.
[0927] Advantageously, the keratin fibres are not rinsed with water, at least two hours, more preferentially at least three hours, even more preferentially at least four hours, after the spraying step of the process according to the invention.The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic product in aerosol form according to the invention for treating, preferably for shaping, keratin fibres, for washing keratin fibres, for caring for / conditioning keratin fibres or for dyeing keratin fibres; more preferentially for shaping the hair.
[0928] When the cosmetic product in aerosol form of the invention is used for shaping the hair, said cosmetic composition comprises at least one fixing agent as described above, more particularly at least one fixing polymer as described above.
[0929] When the cosmetic product in aerosol form of the invention is used for washing the hair, said cosmetic composition comprises at least one washing agent as described above.
[0930] When the cosmetic product in aerosol form of the invention is used for caring for / conditioning the hair, said cosmetic composition comprises at least one conditioning agent as described above.
[0931] When the cosmetic product in aerosol form of the invention is used for dyeing the hair, said cosmetic composition comprises at least one colouring agent as described above.
[0932] Most particularly preferably, the cosmetic product in aerosol form of the invention is used for shaping the hair.
[0933] The cosmetic product in aerosol form comprises the packaging and dispensing assembly 1 and a cosmetic composition contained in said assembly 1.
[0934] The invention also relates to a process for manufacturing a cosmetic product in aerosol form according to the invention, comprising at least the following steps, in the order:
[0935] a) a step of adding to the packaging and dispensing assembly 1 as described above, without dispensing head 40, a cosmetic composition S comprising:
[0936] (i) one or more cosmetic agents as described above, and
[0937] (ii) one or more solvents chosen from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof as described above,
[0938] a') optionally a step of purging the air still present in said packaging and dispensing assembly 1,
[0939] b) a step of pressurizing said packaging and dispensing assembly 1 consisting in introducing through the valve 30, at a temperature of between 18°C and 30°C, a propellant, comprising at least 50% of carbon dioxide relative to the total weight of the propellant, at a pressure greater than the equilibrium pressure of said cosmetic composition S, preferably at a pressure in the range extending from 8xl05Pa (i.e. 8 bar) to 10xl05Pa (i.e. 10 bar), so as to form a two-phase cosmetic composition comprising a liquid phase and a gas phase; the introduction of propellant being maintained until atotal content of carbon dioxide in the then two-phase cosmetic composition in the range extending from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase cosmetic composition, has been achieved by weighing.
[0940] The introduction under pressure of said propellant during step b) may optionally be interrupted by one or more phases of mechanical stirring of said cosmetic composition S.
[0941] In this manufacturing process according to the invention, the dispensing head 40 is temporarily removed from the packaging and dispensing assembly 1 for the addition step a), the optional purging step a') and the pressurization step b), and then put back in order to reform the packaging and dispensing assembly 1 according to the invention.
[0942] The invention also relates to another process for manufacturing a cosmetic product in aerosol form according to the invention, comprising at least the following steps, in the order:
[0943] a) a step of adding to the packaging and dispensing assembly 1 as described above, without dispensing head 40, a cosmetic composition S comprising:
[0944] (i) one or more cosmetic agents as described above, and
[0945] (ii) one or more solvents chosen from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof as described above,
[0946] a') optionally a step of purging the air still present in said packaging and dispensing assembly 1,
[0947] b) a step of pressurizing said packaging and dispensing assembly 1 consisting in introducing through the valve 30, at a temperature of between 18°C and 30°C, a propellant, comprising at least 50% of carbon dioxide relative to the total weight of the propellant, according to the impact gassing technique, so as to form a two-phase cosmetic composition comprising a liquid phase and a gas phase.
[0948] The impact gassing technique consists in introducing, prior to said pressurization step b), said propellant under pressure into a metering device or container having a defined volume such that the total mass of propellant in said metering device corresponds to the amount of propellant to be introduced into said packaging and dispensing assembly 1 in order to achieve a total content of carbon dioxide in the then two-phase cosmetic composition in the range extending from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0949] The volume of said metering device is then compressed so as to multiply the pressure inside said metering device by a factor of 3 to 6.Then, the propellant compressed in said metering device is introduced into said packaging and dispensing assembly 1.
[0950] In particular, the valve 30 is opened so as to abruptly introduce the propellant into the packaging and dispensing assembly 1 in order to cause rapid dissolution of the propellant in the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
[0951] In this manufacturing process according to the invention, the dispensing head 40 is temporarily removed from the packaging and dispensing assembly 1 for the addition step a), the optional purging step a') and the pressurization step b), and then put back in order to reform the packaging and dispensing assembly 1 according to the invention.
[0952] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
[0953] Examples
[0954] Example 1 :
[0955] The preferred characteristics of the cosmetic product in aerosol form according to the invention are summarized in Table 1 below. The ranges of values in this table correspond to the values that are particularly preferred for some of the parameters of the cosmetic product in aerosol form according to the invention.
[0956] It would not be considered that the present invention is limited to the parameters and ranges of values illustrated in Tables 1 and 2 below. < >
[0957] &
[0958]
[0959] < >
[0960] <
[0961] < <
[0962] < <
[0963] &
[0964]
[0965] Example 2:
[0966] Cosmetic compositions Al, A2 and A3 according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 3 below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).
[0967] [Table 3]
[0968]
[0969] The gas phases of cosmetic compositions Al, A2 and A3 according to the invention consist exclusively of carbon dioxide in gas form.
[0970] Compositions Al to A3 were each packaged in separate assemblies 1 for packaging and dispensing a hair spray according to the invention, each having a spray nozzle 42 having the following characteristics:
[0971] - a swirl chamber 44 with a diameter Ds equal to 1 mm and a length Ls equal to 0.25 mm;
[0972] - three radial channels 45 extending from the swirl chamber 44, the shape of which is conical, having a total passage cross section through the channels Ac equal to 0.1725 mm2. The “total passage cross section” Ac of a nozzle refers to the total surface area through which the fluid (liquid, gas or aerosol) can flow at the outlet of the nozzle. This is the area of the opening through which the fluid is expelled; and
[0973] - an outlet orifice 46 with a diameter Do equal to 0.23 mm.
[0974] A good quality of the spray obtained with each of the aerosol cosmetic products according to the invention was observed, notably: a homogeneous and even continuous spray, fine droplets, the absence of clogging of the nozzle.
[0975] Each of cosmetic compositions Al to A3 of the invention was also sprayed onto a separate lock of hair.It was observed that shaping compositions Al to A3 of the invention provide good fixing and good hold of the hair.
[0976] In addition, it was observed that shaping compositions Al to A3 of the invention give the hairstyle a natural look and give the hair a particularly soft and pleasant feel, and allow fluid movement thereof.
[0977] The invention makes it possible to obtain suitable spray characteristics in order to treat the hair under conditions similar to existing aerosol cosmetic products, by combining an aerosol assembly having specific technical characteristics with a cosmetic composition based on carbon dioxide.
Claims
94CLAIMS1. Cosmetic product in aerosol form comprising:- an assembly (1) for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition, notably a hair spray, comprising:- a container (10) delimiting an internal volume (Ila) containing a shaping composition;- a cover (20) connected to the container (10) closing an opening of said container (10);- a dispensing valve (30) mounted in the container (10), secured to the cover (20) and comprising a valve body (31) defining a chamber (33), a valve stem (32) axially movable in the chamber (33) and projecting axially out of the valve body (31), an end piece (35) extending axially from the valve body (31) into the container (10), a spring (38) mounted between the valve body (31) and the valve stem (32), the valve stem (32) comprising an axial dispensing channel (37) and at least one insert orifice (37a) opening onto the outer surface of said stem; and- a dispensing head (40) comprising an actuator (41) mounted on the valve stem (32) to enable the actuation of the valve (30) and the dispensing of the product contained in the container (10), the actuator (41) comprising a nozzle (42) connected to the outlet of the stem (32) by a channel (43) for dispensing the product contained in the container (10), characterized in that- the nozzle (42) comprises a swirl chamber (44) connected to the channel (43), at least one radial channel (45) and an outlet orifice (46) connected to said radial channel (45) and having a diameter (Do) of between 0.15 mm and 0.41 mm, the nozzle (42) being defined by a total passage area through the channels (Ac) of between 0.1 mm2and 0.3 mm2, said total passage area through the channels (Ac) being equal to the multiplication of the number of radial channels (45), of the depth of the radial channels (45) and of the minimum width of the radial channels (45),and in that it comprises a two-phase cosmetic composition comprising a liquid phase and a gas phase, the two-phase composition comprising: (i) one or more cosmetic agents in the liquid phase,(ii) one or more solvents in the liquid phase, chosen from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof, and(iii) a propellant both in the liquid phase and in the gas phase;95said propellant comprising at least 50% by weight of carbon dioxide, relative to the total weight of the propellant, andthe total content of carbon dioxide in the two-phase cosmetic composition being in the range extending from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
2. Product according to Claim 1, in which the swirl chamber (44) has a diameter (Ds) of between 0.5 mm and 1.5 mm, and in which the nozzle (42) has an atomization coefficient (K) of between 0.5 and 1, the atomization coefficient (K) being the ratio of the total passage area through the channels (Ac) to the product of the diameter (Ds) of the swirl chamber (44) and the diameter (Do) of the outlet orifice (46) of the nozzle (42).
3. Product according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the insert orifice (37a) has a diameter of between 0.25 mm and 0.61 mm, and a total surface area (SNI) of between 0.196 mm2and 1.169 mm2.
4. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the end piece (35) comprises an opening with a diameter of between 0.25 mm and 2.5 mm, and the surface area of the end piece (35) is between 0.05 mm2and 4.91 mm2.
5. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the number of radial channels (45) is between 1 and 6.
6. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the valve body (31) does not comprise an additional gas intake.
7. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic agent(s) is (are) chosen from fixing agents, washing agents, conditioning agents, colouring agents, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially chosen from fixing agents.
8. Product according to the preceding claim, in which the fixing agent(s) is (are) chosen from fixing polymers; preferably from nonionic fixing polymers, anionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from anionic fixing polymers.
969. Product according to the preceding claim, in which the fixing polymer(s) is (are) chosen from:(a) acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer,(b) methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers,(c) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers,(d) polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as the monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer,(e) anionic polyurethanes,(f) butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid branched block anionic polymers, (g) acrylates / octylacrylamide amphoteric copolymers,(h) VP / DMAPA acrylates cationic copolymers,(j) vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylamidoethyl methacrylate cationic copolymers, (k) polyvinylcaprolactams,(l) VP / VA copolymers,(m) polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), and(n) mixtures thereof.
10. Product according to any one of Claims 7 to 9, in which the total content of fixing agent(s) in the two-phase cosmetic composition is in the range extending from 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.
11. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the two-phase cosmetic composition comprises ethanol in its liquid phase; preferably, the total content of ethanol in the two-phase cosmetic composition is in the range extending from 20% to 99% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 97% by weight, even more preferentially from 40% to 95% by weight, and even better still from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition.9712. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition comprises a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent, in an organic solvent(s) : water weight ratio in the range extending from 43 : 57 to 97 : 3;preferably, the liquid phase of the two-phase cosmetic composition comprises a mixture of water and ethanol, in an ethanol : water weight ratio in the range extending from 43 : 57 to 97 : 3.
13. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the propellant consists solely of carbon dioxide.
14. Use of a cosmetic product in aerosol form according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, for the treatment of keratin fibres; preferably for shaping keratin fibres, for washing keratin fibres, for caring for / conditioning keratin fibres or for dyeing keratin fibres; more preferentially for shaping the hair.
15. Process for manufacturing a cosmetic product in aerosol form according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, comprising at least the following steps, in the order: a) a step of adding to the packaging and dispensing assembly (1) as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 6, without dispensing head (40), a cosmetic composition S comprising:(i) one or more cosmetic agents as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 7 to 10, and (ii) one or more solvents chosen from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof as defined in any one of Claims 1, 11 and 12,a') optionally a step of purging the air still present in said packaging and dispensing assembly (1),b) a step of pressurizing said packaging and dispensing assembly (1) consisting in introducing through the dispensing valve (30), at a temperature of between 18°C and 30°C, a propellant, comprising at least 50% of carbon dioxide relative to the total weight of the propellant, at a pressure greater than the equilibrium pressure of said cosmetic composition S, preferably at a pressure in the range extending from 8xl05Pa to 10xl05Pa, so as to form a two-phase cosmetic composition comprising a liquid phase and a gas phase; the introduction of the propellant being maintained until a total content of carbon dioxide in the cosmetic composition in the range extending from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of said two-phase cosmetic composition, has been achieved by weighing.9816. Process for manufacturing a cosmetic product in aerosol form according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, comprising at least the following steps, in the order: a) a step of adding to the packaging and dispensing assembly (1) as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 6, without dispensing head (40), a cosmetic composition S comprising:(i) one or more cosmetic agents as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 7 to 10, and (ii) one or more solvents chosen from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof as defined in any one of Claims 1, 11 and 12,a') optionally a step of purging the air still present in said packaging and dispensing assembly (1),b) a step of pressurizing said packaging and dispensing assembly (1) consisting in introducing through the dispensing valve (30), at a temperature of between 18°C and 30°C, a propellant, comprising at least 50% of carbon dioxide relative to the total weight of the propellant, at a pressure greater than the equilibrium pressure of said cosmetic composition S, preferably at a pressure in the range extending from 8xl05Pa to 10xl05Pa, according to the impact gassing technique, so as to form a two-phase cosmetic composition comprising a liquid phase and a gas phase;the impact gassing technique consisting in, in the order:- introducing, prior to said pressurization step b), said propellant under pressure into a metering device or container having a defined volume such that the total mass of propellant in said metering device corresponds to the amount of propellant to be introduced into said packaging and dispensing assembly (1) in order to achieve a total content of carbon dioxide in the then two-phase cosmetic composition in the range extending from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 5% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase cosmetic composition,- compressing the volume of said metering device so as to multiply the pressure inside said metering device by a factor of 3 to 6,- introducing the propellant compressed in said metering device into said packaging and dispensing assembly (1).