Hair treatment agent comprising a composition containing an oxidation dye and / or an alkaline agent and a quaternary ester, and an oxidizing composition
The hair treatment agent with oxidation dyes and quaternary ester surfactants addresses selectivity and persistence issues in hair dyeing, offering a creamy texture and improved dyeing properties while reducing petrochemical use.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2025-12-17
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-02
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Abstract
Description
[0001] HAIR TREATMENT AGENT COMPRISING A COMPOSITION CONTAINING AN OXIDATION DYE AND / OR AN ALKALINE AGENT AND A QUATERNARY ESTER, AND AN OXIDIZING COMPOSITION
[0002] The present invention relates to the field of hair dyeing. It is directed towards proposing a hair treatment agent that is capable of serving as a base for the formulation of all types of oxidation dyeing compositions for keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
[0003] The invention relates to an agent for treating keratin fibres comprising a composition comprising at least one oxidation dye and / or alkaline agent, a quaternary ester cationic surfactant and an ester of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, and also to an oxidizing composition.
[0004] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising the use of the treatment agent according to the invention on said fibres.
[0005] The invention also relates to a dye composition resulting from the mixture of the two compositions of the treatment agent according to the invention.
[0006] It is known practice to dye keratin fibres, and in particular human hair, with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, such as oxidation bases, notably ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, are able to produce coloured compounds by a process of oxidative condensation.
[0007] It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases may be varied by combining them with couplers or colour modifiers, the latter being notably chosen from aromatic meta-diaminobenzenes, meta- aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds.
[0008] The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained.
[0009] “Permanent” dyeing is characterized by the use of oxidation dye precursor(s) (bases and / or couplers) in the presence of oxidizing compound(s). In order to be considered as efficient dyeing, the latter needs to satisfy certain criteria. It must make it possible to obtain shades in the desired intensity with colour differences, between the end and the root of the same lock (also known as the selectivity), which are as small as possible.The colouring must also be resistant over time and must not become degraded in the presence of external agents such as washing, light, bad weather, rubbing and perspiration.
[0010] However, the dyeing results obtained are not always very satisfactory, notably in terms of selectivity, colour build-up, chromaticity, intensity and / or persistence, in particular with respect to successive shampoo washes, or of resistance to light or to perspiration.
[0011] Also, the hair can be weakened or damaged by repeated colouring, so users also often resort to separate hair care, in order to condition the hair. Treating the hair in two separate steps (colouring, then conditioning) is more complicated to set up, time-consuming and expensive for the user.
[0012] In addition, current hair dye compositions generally have the following drawbacks: conditioning properties that are not entirely satisfactory, an odour that may be unpleasant, discomfort of the scalp and / or a texture that is sometimes difficult to distribute uniformly over the keratin fibres (running), in particular the hair.
[0013] These findings are behind the interest in developing novel treatment agents, which can be used to obtain colourings on keratin fibres that are sparingly selective (i.e. homogeneous from the root to the end), intense, long-lasting, chromatic, with good colour build-up, and that are capable of affording colourings that are resistant to the various stresses to which the fibres may be subjected, such as weather conditions, washing and perspiration, and that are also capable of affording good dyeing performance even after a period of storage.
[0014] It is also of interest that these new compositions be gentle on the scalp, that they have good working properties such as being easy to mix, having a pleasant odour, a pleasant texture, that they be easy to apply, and that they also impart care / conditioning properties to keratin fibres, more particularly a soft feel, suppleness, sheen and / or a smooth feel.
[0015] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major preoccupation for contributing towards meeting the global challenges.
[0016] It thus proves essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby enabling these environmental challenges to be met.
[0017] In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic treatment agents with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that arerenewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while at the same time reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0018] These aims are achieved with the present invention, one subject of which is notably a treatment agent, preferably a cosmetic treatment agent such as a hair treatment agent, comprising:
[0019] (i) a composition C comprising:
[0020] - at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent,
[0021] - at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant, and
[0022] - at least one ester of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, which is not (poly)oxyalkylenated and not (poly)glycerolated, and
[0023] (ii) an oxidizing composition comprising:
[0024] - at least one chemical oxidizing agent, and
[0025] - at least one anionic surfactant.
[0026] It has been found that the treatment agent according to the invention makes it possible to obtain better dyeing properties. In particular, the colouring obtained is sparingly selective, with good colour build-up, intensity, chromaticity and fastness.
[0027] The keratin fibre colourings obtained with the treatment agent according to the invention are particularly persistent with respect to external agents (washing, light, bad weather, friction, perspiration), and notably persistent with respect to shampoo washing several times.
[0028] Composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention has good working qualities and good cosmetic properties, notably a pleasant odour and a texture which differs from hair dye compositions usually used with a creamy and particularly fondant texture on application, notably on contact with keratin fibres such as the hair. The texture of composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention is particularly appreciated in that it is sparingly tacky and fluid, which allows its use for several types of application such as in a bowl or a heating bottle.
[0029] Composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention succeeds in having a firm and fondant texture on application, while at the same time affording homogeneous deposition thereof on keratin fibres (no running), in particular on keratin fibres such as the hair.It has been found that the treatment agents according to the invention afford good scalp comfort during application.
[0030] It has also been found that the hair thus treated is particularly shiny, light, soft-feeling, smooth-feeling, supple, easy to disentangle and more manageable.
[0031] In addition, the treatment agents according to the invention are particularly environmentally friendly, notably in that they comprise few or no compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0032] A subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of using the treatment agent according to the invention on said fibres.
[0033] A subject of the invention is also a dye composition resulting from the mixture of the two compositions of the treatment agent according to the invention, thus comprising at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent, at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant, at least one chemical oxidizing agent, and at least one anionic surfactant.
[0034] Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
[0035] In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0036] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;
[0037] - the expression “between...and...” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from...to...” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;
[0038] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term “greater than” and, respectively, the term “less than” refer to an open range which is strictly greater, or, respectively, strictly less, and thus that the limits are not included;
[0039] - according to the present patent application, the term “keratin fibres” more particularly means human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, the eyebrows and the eyelashes, even more preferentially the hair;
[0040] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term “hair" means head hair. This term does not correspond to bodily hairs, the eyebrows or the eyelashes;
[0041] - according to the present patent application, the term “fatty acid” means an organic acid comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0042] - according to the present patent application, the term “fatty alcohol” means an alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms;
[0043] - according to the present invention, the term “(poly)oxyalkylenated compound” means a compound comprising one or more ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups; preferably, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups may range from 1 to 150; more preferentially, the (poly)oxyalkylenated compound does not comprise any glycerol groups;
[0044] - according to the present invention, “(poly)glycerolated compound” means a compound comprising one or more glycerol groups; preferably, the number of glycerol groups may range from 1 to 30.
[0045] Composition C:
[0046] The treatment agent comprises a composition C comprising:
[0047] - at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent,
[0048] - at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant,
[0049] - at least one fatty ester of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol,
[0050] - optionally at least one additional fatty amine cationic surfactant,
[0051] - optionally at least one cationic polysaccharide,
[0052] - optionally at least one additional fatty substance different from the fatty esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, and
[0053] - optionally at least one sequestrant.
[0054] Said composition C comprises at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent.
[0055] In other words, said composition C comprises at least one beneficial agent chosen from oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0056] According to a first embodiment according to the invention, said composition C comprises:
[0057] (i) at least one oxidation dye, and
[0058] (ii) at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant.According to a second embodiment according to the invention, said composition C comprises:
[0059] (i) at least one alkaline agent, and
[0060] (ii) at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant.
[0061] According to a third embodiment according to the invention, said composition C comprises:
[0062] (i) at least one oxidation dye and at least one alkaline agent, and
[0063] (ii) at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant.
[0064] Preferably, said composition C comprises at least one oxidation dye and at least one alkaline agent.
[0065] All of the features and preferences described below apply, independently of each other, to all of the above embodiments (first, second and third).
[0066] Preferably, composition C of the invention is silicone-free. The term “silicone-free” means that composition C of the invention does not comprise any silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in composition C are included in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% relative to the total weight of composition C, and better still is free of silicone (0%).
[0067] The term “silicone” means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones and dimethiconols.
[0068] The oxidation dyes
[0069] Said composition C may advantageously comprise at least one oxidation dye.The oxidation dyes (also referred to as “oxidation dye precursors”) may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.
[0070] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.
[0071] Preferably, said composition C according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.
[0072] The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.
[0073] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in said composition C are notably chosen from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0074] Moreover, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0075] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para- aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts.
[0076] Para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, paraphenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4’ -aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy -para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of salts thereof.
[0077] Among the abovementioned para-phenylenediamines, preference is given in particular to para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy -para-phenylenediamine, 2, 6-dimethyl -para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of salts thereof.
[0078] Bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)- 1 ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and l,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0079] Para-aminophenols that are mentioned include, for example, paraaminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
[0080] Ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned include, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
[0081] Heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned include, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.Pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned include the compounds for example described in the patents GB 1 026978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0082] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[ 1 ,5 -a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l ,5-a]pyrid-7 -yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3 ,6-diaminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin- 4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5- (morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino] ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0083] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridines and preferably substituted on the 2 carbon atom with:
[0084] a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, it being possible for said alkyl group to be substituted with at least one hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group;
[0085] b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted with one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Ci -Chalky Ipiperazinium group; or
[0086] c) a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a P -hydroxy alkoxy group, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the addition salts thereof, the solvates and the solvates of the salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0087] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, for instance 4,5-diamino- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4’-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl- 1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 -methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino-3-tert-butyl- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-(4’-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2’-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3.4.5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino- l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3, 5-diamino-4-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino- 1-methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or solvates of the salts. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino- l-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.
[0088] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferentially 4.5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.
[0089] The pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned comprise diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6, 7 -dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino- 1,2-dimethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-diethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2-diethyl-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, the salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof.
[0090] Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.
[0091] Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-diamino- l-(0-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.
[0092] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0093] Preferably, when said composition C comprises one or more oxidation bases, the total content of oxidation base(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition C.
[0094] Preferably, when said composition C comprises one or more oxidation bases chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation base(s) chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition C.
[0095] In a particular embodiment, said composition C is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, the addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.
[0096] The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.
[0097] Preferably, said composition C comprises one or more oxidation couplers. Among the couplers that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, metadiphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, and also the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts thereof.
[0098] Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro- 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2, 4-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyloxy / benzene, 2-amino-4-(P-hydroxyethylamino)-l-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, l,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy / propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-l -dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, a-naphthol, 2-methyl-l-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino / toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol and 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts, and the corresponding mixtures.
[0099] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid, such ashydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0100] Moreover, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol, such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0101] Preferably, the coupler(s) are chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0102] Preferably, when said composition C comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition C.
[0103] Preferably, when said composition C comprises one or more oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition C.
[0104] According to a particular embodiment, said composition C is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.
[0105] Preferably, said composition C comprises at least one oxidation dye different from the oxidation dyes chosen from the group consisting of resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and solvates of the salts thereof.
[0106] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases, couplers and mixtures thereof; more preferably from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0107] Preferably, when said composition C comprises at least one oxidation dye, the total content of oxidation dye(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition C.
[0108] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said composition C may optionally also comprise at least one direct dye.
[0109] These direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.
[0110] The term “direct dye" means coloured species. These are dyes which spread superficially on the fibre.
[0111] These synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from the dyes conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0112] Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l,4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)benzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l-amino-3-methyl-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene ; 1 - amino-2-nitro-4- P -hydroxyethylamino- 5 -chlorobenzene ; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 ,2-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-5 -nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethyloxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-methoxy-2- P-hydroxy ethylamino- 5 -nitrobenzene ; 1 - P -hydroxyethyloxy-3 -methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethylamino-4-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P,y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-P-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy -2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-6-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.
[0113] Among the azo direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
[0114] Among the hydrazono direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87.
[0115] Among the nitroaryl direct dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A,A'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)- 2-nitrophenylenediamine .
[0116] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0117] Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds : 1 -N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-P-hydroxyethyl- 1 ,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, l,4-bis(P,y-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.
[0118] Among the azine direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.
[0119] Among the indoamine direct dyes, mention may be made of: 2-P-hydroxyethlyamino-5-[bis(P-4’-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2’ -methoxy-4’ -amino)anilino- 1 ,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2’ -chloro-4’-hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3’-chloro-4’ -methylamino )phenylureido-6-methyl- 1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4’ -N- (ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinoneimine.
[0120] The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllines, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.
[0121] Among the ortho-diphenols that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, pro anthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2-methyl-l,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and natural extracts containing same.
[0122] More preferentially, the direct dye(s) are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, nitroaryl direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.More preferentially, the direct dyes are chosen from ionic direct dyes, better still from cationic direct dyes.
[0123] Even more preferentially, the cationic direct dyes are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.
[0124] When said composition C comprises at least one direct dye, the total content of direct dye(s) is preferably in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition C.
[0125] When composition C comprises at least one cationic direct dye, the total content of cationic direct dye(s) is preferably in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0126] Preferably, the total content of dye(s) is within the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.002% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.005% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0127] The alkaline agents
[0128] Said composition C may advantageously comprise at least one alkaline agent.
[0129] The alkaline agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents. For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” and “basifying agent” are used interchangeably.
[0130] The mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine, and mixtures thereof.
[0131] The term “alkanolamine” means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0132] Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Ci to C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
[0133] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.
[0134] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
[0135] The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1,1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l-sulfonic acid.
[0136] The amino acids used as alkaline agent according to the invention are not surfactants.
[0137] Use may be made in particular of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) according to the invention are chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, silicates or metasilicates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and even better still ammonium hydroxide.
[0138] Preferably, when said composition C comprises at least one alkaline agent, the total content of alkaline agent(s) is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, better still from 3.5% to 10%, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition C.
[0139] Preferably, when said composition C comprises at least one alkanolamine, the total content of alkanolamine(s) is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, better still from 3.5% to 10%, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition C.
[0140] Preferably, when said composition C comprises ammonium hydroxide, the total content of ammonium hydroxide is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, better still from 3.5% to 10%, even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition C.
[0141] Quaternary ester cationic surfactants
[0142] Composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention comprises at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant.
[0143] The term “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only cationic groups. In the present description, a species is termed as being “cationic” when it bears at least one permanent positive charge or when it can be ionized as a positively charged species, under the conditions of use of compositionC of the treatment agent according to the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any anionic charge.
[0144] For the purposes of the invention, the term “quaternary ester cationic surfactant” means a cationic surfactant comprising at least one carboxylic ester group and at least one quaternary ammonium group.
[0145] Preferably, the quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:
[0146]
[0147] in which:
[0148] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,
[0149] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,
[0150] - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and
[0151] - X" represents an anion.
[0152] Preferably, Ri and R2 are linear.
[0153] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are saturated.
[0154] According to another embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are unsaturated. Preferably, Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group.
[0155] Preferably, A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group. Preferably, A and A’ are identical.
[0156] Preferably, R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and better still R3 represents a methyl group.Preferably, R4 is chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, more preferentially Ci-C2 alkyl groups, better still a methyl group; b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, more preferentially C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups, better still the CH2CH2OH group.
[0157] The anion X" preferably represents a) a halide, in particular a chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, c) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, d) a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, j) any other ammonium-compatible anion bearing an ester function.
[0158] More preferentially, the anion X ’ represents a) a halide or b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate. Even more preferentially, the anion X" represents a chloride ion or a metho sulfate group.
[0159] Said quaternary ester cationic surfactants, in particular of formula (A), are different from the fatty amine cationic surfactants described below.
[0160] Advantageously, said quaternary ester cationic surfactants may be in the form of a salt, such as a salt of a halide, C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or lactate, or any other compatible anion; preferably a halide or C1-C4 alkyl sulfate salt.
[0161] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:
[0162] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group, which is preferably linear, and saturated or unsaturated.
[0163] Preferably, A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A’ are identical;
[0164] - R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and better still R3 represents a methyl group;
[0165] - R4 represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, more preferentially a C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 and more preferentially C1-C2 alkyl group, better still a methyl group; - X" represents a) a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, c) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, d) a (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid, such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferentially, the anion X" represents a) a halide or b) a C1-C4 alkylsulfate; even more preferentially, the anion X" represents a chloride ion or a metho sulfate group.
[0166] Preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:
[0167] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear, saturated C9-C21 hydrocarbon group,
[0168] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from C1-C2 alkyl groups and C2-C3 hydroxy alkyl groups,
[0169] - A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a C1-C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A’ are identical; and
[0170] - X" represents an anion chosen from halides and C1-C4 alkyl sulfate groups.
[0171] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are chosen from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
[0172] Better still, said composition C comprises at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) in salt form, notably a dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium metho sulfate.
[0173] Preferably, the total content of quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0174] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0175] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0176] Additional fatty amine cationic surfactants
[0177] Preferably, composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention also comprises at least one additional cationic surfactant, different from the quaternary ester cationic surfactants as described previously.
[0178] Preferably, composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention also comprises at least one additional fatty amine cationic surfactant.
[0179] More preferentially, the additional fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines (optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated), salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0180] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof, and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain.
[0181] Said additional fatty amine cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-0 groups.
[0182] Preferably, the additional fatty amine cationic surfactants that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.
[0183] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants according to the invention comprise at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0184] The additional fatty amine cationic surfactants are different from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) as described previously.As additional fatty amine cationic surfactants, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.
[0185] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
[0186] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0187] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.
[0188] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may be made most particularly of the amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 in which: - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical;
[0189] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and
[0190] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.
[0191] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stear amidopropyl dimethylamine, isostear amidopropyl dimethylamine. stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine,olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0192] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0193] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into said composition C (which does not rule out the fact that they may “quaternize” in situ).
[0194] Preferably, the additional fatty amine cationic surfactants are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;
[0195] more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;
[0196] even more preferentially from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;
[0197] and better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0198] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of additional cationic surfactant(s) other than the quaternary ester cationic surfactants is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, evenbetter still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0199] Preferably, when said composition C comprises one or more additional fatty amine cationic surfactants, the total content of additional fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0200] Preferably, when said composition C comprises one or more additional cationic surfactants chosen from fatty amidoamines, the total content of additional cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0201] Preferably, when said composition C comprises one or more additional cationic surfactants chosen from the fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR"N(R')2 described previously, the total content of additional cationic surfactant(s) chosen from the fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2 described previously is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0202] More preferentially, said composition C comprises at least one first quaternary ester cationic surfactant and at least one second cationic surfactant of fatty amine type.
[0203] Better still, said composition C comprises at least one first cationic surfactant of formula (A) as described above and at least one second cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0204] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in said composition C is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to7% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0205] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) (iii) and of additional fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) in said composition C is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0206] The cationic polysaccharides
[0207] Preferably, said composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention also comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide.
[0208] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cationic polysaccharide” denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer of polysaccharide type, containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0209] The cationic polysaccharides are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any Si-0 units).
[0210] For the purposes of the invention, the cationic polysaccharides used in said composition C are not surfactants.
[0211] For the purposes of the invention, the cationic polysaccharides used in said composition C are different from the fatty amine cationic surfactants and the quaternary ester cationic surfactants as described previously.
[0212] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of cationic polymer other than the cationic polysaccharides.
[0213] The expression “free of cationic polymer other than cationic polysaccharides" means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any cationic polymers other than the cationic polysaccharides described in the present patent application. In other words, the composition according to the invention preferably does not comprise one or more cationic polymers other than the cationic polysaccharides described in the present patent applicationThe term “cationic polymer” means any non-silicone polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0214] The cationic polysaccharides may notably be chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums and mixtures thereof.
[0215] Mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0216] The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
[0217] Mention may notably be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol.
[0218] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4 131 576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may be made most particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, the quatemizing agent notably possibly being diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and most particularly hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose.
[0219] Among the commercial products corresponding to this definition, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
[0220] A particularly preferred cationic cellulose that may notably be mentioned is the polymer having the INCI name: Polyquatemium-10.
[0221] The cationic galactomannan gums are notably described in patents US 3 589578 and US 4031 307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, notably those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, notably trimethylammonium.Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride).
[0222] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.
[0223] Mention may be made in particular of the products having the INCI names Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Solvay.
[0224] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, notably those including quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product having the INCI name Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0225] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from associative or non-associative cationic polysaccharides; more preferentially from non-associative cationic polysaccharides.
[0226] The term “associative polysaccharide” means polysaccharide polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules. The associative polysaccharides more particularly comprise at least one hydrophobic group.
[0227] The term “hydrophobic group” means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0228] Preferentially, the hydrocarbon chain is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.More preferentially, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof.
[0229] Even more preferentially, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cationic galactomannan gums.
[0230] Most particularly preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cationic guar gums.
[0231] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s) in said composition C is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0232] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of galactomannan gum(s) in said composition C is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0233] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of cationic guar gum(s) in said composition C is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0234] Esters ofCi-C40 carboxylic acid and ofCi-C40 alcohol
[0235] Said composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention further comprises at least one ester of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol.
[0236] The term “ester” means, in the usual manner, an ester of a carboxylic acid and of an alcohol.
[0237] According to the invention, said esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol do not include any monosaccharide and / or polysaccharide units. Said esters of C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of C1-C40 alcohol according to the invention are different from the esters and diesters of sugars and of Ce to C30 fatty acids as describedbelow, which are optionally present in the composition according to the invention as additional fatty substances.
[0238] The esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol according to the invention are non-silicone (they do not comprise any Si — O bonds). They are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0239] The ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol that may be used in the context of the present invention are preferably esters of a C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), said acid possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example with one or more (notably 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups.
[0240] Said carboxylic acid may be a monocarboxylic acid or a polycarboxylic acid, preferably a monocarboxylic acid.
[0241] Said carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said acid is not substituted.
[0242] Advantageously, said carboxylic acid is a linear or branched saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better C3-C28 or even C4-C22 monocarboxylic acid.
[0243] Most particularly, said acid may be a saturated (un substituted) linear C8-C22, notably C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10 or even C5-C9 monocarboxylic acid.
[0244] The ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol that may be used in the context of the present invention are preferably esters of carboxylic acid and of a C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), said alcohol possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted.
[0245] According to the invention, said alcohol, which makes it possible to form by esterification the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol according to the invention, is a monoalcohol (i.e. alcohol comprising a single hydroxyl group -OH) or a diol (i.e. alcohol comprising two hydroxyl groups -OH), preferably a monoalcohol. According to the invention, said alcohol does not comprise three or more hydroxyl groups -OH. In other words, according to the invention, said alcohol does not comprise more than two hydroxyl groups -OH. According to the invention, said alcohol is not a glycerol.Said alcohol may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said alcohol is not substituted.
[0246] Advantageously, said alcohol is a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better C3-C28 or even C4-C22 monoalcohol.
[0247] Most particularly, said alcohol may be a linear (un substituted) saturated Cs-C22, notably C10-C20 or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13 or even C3-C9 monoalcohol.
[0248] Thus, the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol which can be used in the context of the present invention are advantageously, alone or as a mixture, esters of a C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), said acid possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups; and of a C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), said alcohol said acid possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted.
[0249] Among the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol that may be used, mention may notably be made of esters of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 monoacids or polyacids and of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 monoalcohols or diols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0250] Preferably, mention may be made of esters of a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 monoacid; and of a linear or branched, saturated C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 monoalcohol.
[0251] In particular, mention may be made of esters of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, notably C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10 or even C5-C9 monoacid; and of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, notably C10-C20 or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13 or even C3-C9 monoalcohol.Mention may be made more particularly, alone or as a mixture, of:
[0252] - ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate or 2-octyldecyl palmitate;
[0253] - isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate;
[0254] - isoamyl laurate, isocetyl laurate or 2-hexyldecyl laurate;
[0255] - isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate or 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate;
[0256] - isodecyl neopentanoate or isostearyl neopentanoate;
[0257] - 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isocetyl stearate or isobutyl stearate;
[0258] - isostearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate or isodecyl octanoate;
[0259] - decyl oleate or isodecyl oleate;
[0260] - isocetyl isostearate;
[0261] - octyldodecyl erucate or oleyl erucate;
[0262] - octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate;
[0263] - isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate.
[0264] Advantageously, the ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol are chosen from solid esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, i.e. those with a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).
[0265] Preferably, the ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol are chosen from esters of a C8-C22 carboxylic acid and of a C8-C22 alcohol; more preferentially from esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol; even more preferentially from esters of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol.
[0266] Among said esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol, mention may notably be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C12-C20 or branched C12-C20 aliphatic mono- or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C12-C20 or branched C12-C20 aliphatic monoalcohols or diols.
[0267] Preferably, use is made of one or more esters of a C12-C20 monocarboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 monoalcohol; more preferentially one or more esters of a C14-C18 monocarboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 monoalcohol.
[0268] Preferably, one or more esters of a linear, saturated C12-C20 monocarboxylic acid and of a linear, saturated C12-C20 monoalcohol are used; more preferentially, one or more esters of a linear, saturated C14-C18 monocarboxylic acid and of a linear, saturated C14-C18 monoalcohol.Mention may be made in particular of esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, and of myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol or stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl esters (INCI name: Cetyl esters).
[0269] Preferably, the total content of ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol in composition C according to the invention is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0270] Preferably, the total content of ester(s) of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol in composition C according to the invention is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0271] Preferably, the total content of ester(s) of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol in composition C according to the invention is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0272] Additional fatty substances:
[0273] Preferably, said composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention also comprises at least one additional fatty substance, different from the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol as described previously.
[0274] According to the invention, said additional fatty substances are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, fatty amine cationic surfactants, cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol and quaternary ester cationic surfactants as described previously, and from the sequestrants as described below.
[0275] Preferably, said additional fatty substances are different from fatty acids.
[0276] The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa) (solubility in water of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentiallyless than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0277] The additional fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0278] Preferably, the additional fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
[0279] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.
[0280] The additional fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. The term “liquid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa) and the term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013X105Pa).
[0281] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).
[0282] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from Ce to Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters and diesters of sugars and of fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0283] It is recalled that the fatty alcohols and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they areunsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0284] As regards the liquid Ce-Cie hydrocarbons, they may be linear, branched, and optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0285] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0286] A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydro squalene .
[0287] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0288] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFE Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
[0289] The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleylalcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.
[0290] Said composition C may also comprise esters and diesters of sugars and of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than anionic polysaccharides.
[0291] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
[0292] The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may notably be chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C<> to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0293] The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0294] These esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters.
[0295] More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters of sugars and of fatty acids and notably of mono- or dioleates, mono- or distearates, mono- or dibehenates, mono- or dioleopalmitates, mono- or dilinoleates, mono- or dilinolenates or mono- or dioleostearates of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0296] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0297] According to one embodiment, the additional fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially fromtriglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin; better still from triglyceride oils of plant origin.
[0298] The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s’1.
[0299] The solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0300] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl OH group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxy alky lenated nor glycerolated.
[0301] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0302] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0303] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1 -tetracos anol); ceryl alcohol (or 1 -hexacos anol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0304] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
[0305] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the compositionthat comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.
[0306] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non- silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0307] Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
[0308] Mention may also be made of C20 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.
[0309] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0310] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as transisomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis( 1,1,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
[0311] Use may also be made of the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim.
[0312] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
[0313] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may in particular be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product soldunder the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
[0314] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0315] Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
[0316] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:
[0317] R1denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from Cu-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
[0318] R2denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
[0319] R3denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 a-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 a-hydroxy acid.The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2denotes a hydrogen atom and R3denotes a saturated linear C15 group.
[0320] Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0321] Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0322] As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N- [2-hydroxypalmitoyl] aminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1, 3, 4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxy ethyl) -N- (3 -cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) amide and bis(N -hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.
[0323] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0324] Butters may also be used.
[0325] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter” (also referred to as a “pasty fatty substance”) means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, including at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a starting melting temperature above 25 °C and an end melting temperature below 60°C.
[0326] Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas,published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0327] Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea slenoplera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca lalifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. bulyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma bulyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia temifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.
[0328] An example of a preferred butter is shea butter.
[0329] In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospemum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% of fat, which is extracted and which is generally refined.
[0330] Preferably, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C8-C40 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0331] More preferably, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0332] Even more preferentially, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0333] Most preferentially, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.According to a particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention, said composition C also comprises at least one C8-C40, preferably C10-C30, more preferentially C12-C24 and more preferentially C14-C22 fatty alcohol, better still chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, even better still cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0334] Preferably, when said composition C comprises one or more additional fatty substances other than esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, the total content of additional fatty substance(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, even better still from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0335] Preferably, when said composition C comprises one or more additional fatty substances chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, the total content of additional fatty substance(s) chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof is in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, even better still from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0336] Preferably, when said composition comprises one or more additional fatty substances chosen from C8-C40 fatty alcohols, the total content of C8-C40 fatty alcohol(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, and even better still from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0337] The secmest rants:
[0338] Preferably, said composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention also comprises at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent).
[0339] The definition of a “sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds that are capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which acompound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).
[0340] A sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electrondonating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
[0341] In the context of the present invention, the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminopho sphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof.
[0342] The salts are notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.
[0343] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N’ -diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N’ -disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N’ -disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N’-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N’-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N’ -diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryliminodiacetic acid (as described in EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl- 3 -sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N’-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N’ -diacetic acid, and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509 382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutanetricarboxylic acid such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dis solvine GL38 or 45S from AkzoNobel.
[0344] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on mono- or polypho sphonic acid: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenepho sphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane- 1 -hydroxy -1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-l,l,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane- 1 -hydroxy- 1,1 -dipho sphonic acid (EHDP), ethane- 1,1, 2-tripho sphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.
[0345] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.
[0346] According to one embodiment, the sequestrant(s) that are useful according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestrants, i.e. sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
[0347] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in said composition C are preferably chosen from:
[0348] - inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;
[0349] - organic phosphorus-based derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, for instance etidronic acid and / or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.
[0350] Preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.
[0351] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
[0352] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least two phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1 -hydroxyethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or alkali metal oralkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
[0353] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0354] Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0355] More preferentially, the sequestrant(s) are chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0356] Even more preferentially, the sequestrant(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0357] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts and notably the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.
[0358] Preferably, when said composition C comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of sequestrant(s) is within the range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0359] Preferably, when said composition C comprises one or more sequestrants chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, the total content of sequestrant(s) chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (GLDA) and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, is within the range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0360] Compounds of amino acid type:Advantageously, composition C of the invention may also comprise one or more compounds of amino acid type.
[0361] Preferably, composition C comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type.
[0362] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “compound of amino acid type” means an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions and one or more amine functions, it being possible for the amine function(s) to be endocyclic, optionally in salt form.
[0363] According to the invention, said compounds of amino acid type are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, fatty amine cationic surfactants, cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, sequestrants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants and additional fatty substances as described above, and also from the (poly)carboxylic acids and organic solvents as described below.
[0364] Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type are chosen from compounds of amino acid type comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (thus not comprising any sulfonic acid functions) and / or salts thereof. Said compounds are also called compounds of aminocarboxylic acid type and are particularly preferred.
[0365] Preferably, composition C comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or salts thereof.
[0366] The compounds of amino acid type may thus correspond to formula (I): COOH
[0367] H — C — N(H)P
[0368] D
[0369]
[0370] in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:
[0371] - when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated 5- to 8-membered, preferably 5-membered, heterocycle, this ring possibly being substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl;
[0372] - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (Ci-Ci2)alkyl and preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.Preferably, when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated 5-membered heterocycle, this ring not being substituted.
[0373] Preferably, p = 2.
[0374] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted with an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted with one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.
[0375] Preferentially, p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.
[0376] The compounds of amino acid type may also be a salt of a compound of formula (I).
[0377] These salts comprise the salts with organic or mineral bases, for example the salts of alkali metals, for instance the lithium, sodium or potassium salts; the salts of alkaline-earth metals, for instance the magnesium or calcium salts, and the zinc salts.
[0378] The compounds of amino acid type may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL configuration, preferably of L configuration.
[0379] As examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.
[0380] Preferably, the compound(s) of amino acid type according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof (notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.
[0381] Preferentially, the compound(s) of amino acid type according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
[0382] Better still, the compound of amino acid type is chosen from glycine, salts thereof (notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or zinc salts) and mixtures thereof.
[0383] As glycine salts according to the present invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.
[0384] Preferably, the compound of amino acid type is glycine.
[0385] When composition C comprises one or more compounds of amino acid type, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type is preferably in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even morepreferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0386] In particular, the total content of compound(s) of aminocarboxylic acid type in composition C is preferably within the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0387] Better still, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in composition C is preferably in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0388] Most particularly, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, salts thereof and mixtures thereof in composition C is preferably in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0389] Better still, the total content of glycine in composition C is preferably in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0390] (Poly)carboxylic acids
[0391] Advantageously, composition C of the invention may also comprise one or more (poly )carboxy lie acids.
[0392] Preferably, composition C comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids, a salt thereof or mixtures thereof.
[0393] According to the invention, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) are different from the compounds of amino acid type described previously.
[0394] In particular, according to the invention, said (poly)carboxylic acids are different from the oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, fatty amine cationic surfactants, cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, sequestrants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, additional fatty substances andcompounds of amino acid type as described previously, and also from the organic solvents as described below.
[0395] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) are chosen from the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) of formula (II) below:
[0396]
[0397] in which formula (II):
[0398] - n is an integer between 0 and 10, better still between 1 and 5, even better still between 1 and 3; preferably, n = 1 or 2, more preferably n = 2;
[0399] - A is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic or even aromatic monovalent hydrocarbon group (when n = 0) or multivalent hydrocarbon group (when n is other than 0), comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups (OH).
[0400] Preferably, A is a monovalent or multivalent (Ci-C6)alkylene and better still (C2-C4)alkylene group, or phenylene group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
[0401] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are a-hydroxy acids, for which A is a (Ci-C6)alkylene and better still (C2-C4)alkylene group, or a phenylene group, substituted with 1 or 2 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 hydroxyl group; and n = 0 to 2.
[0402] Mention may be made in particular of the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (D) in which:
[0403] - n = 0 and A is a monovalent (Ci-C6)alkyl and notably (C2-C4)alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups (OH), notably 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH;
[0404] - n = 0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted with 1 OH radical; or
[0405] - n = 1 or 2 and A is a divalent or trivalent (Ci-C6)alkyl and better still (C2-C4)alkyl group, substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, notably 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH.
[0406] Preferentially, the (poly)carboxylic acids may be chosen from:
[0407] - citric acid (n = 2 and A trivalent = -CH2-CHOH-CH2-);
[0408] - salicylic acid (n = 0 and A = phenyl substituted with an OH);
[0409] - lactic acid (n = 0 and A monovalent = -CH(OH)CH3); and
[0410] - tartaric acid (n = 1 and A divalent = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-).Even more preferentially, the (poly)carboxylic acid is citric acid.
[0411] When composition C comprises one or more (poly)carboxylic acids and / or salts thereof, the total content of (poly)carboxylic acids and / or salts thereof is preferably in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight, and even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0412] In a preferred embodiment, composition C according to the invention comprises citric acid in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 7% by weight and even better still from 0.4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0413] Organic solvents
[0414] Advantageously, said composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more organic solvents.
[0415] For the purposes of the invention, the organic solvents are different from oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, fatty amine cationic surfactants, cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, sequestrants, additional cationic surfactants chosen from those of formula (A) and additional fatty substances as described previously.
[0416] As organic solvents, examples that may be mentioned include a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols that are water-miscible at room temperature (25°C), notably chosen from polyols notably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also d) aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0417] For the purposes of the present invention the term “polyol” refers to an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain, preferably of C2-C30, more preferentially C3-C12, even more preferentially C3-C5, optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by differentcarbon atoms, this compound possibly being cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
[0418] According to the invention, the organic solvents do not bear any amine or thiol functions and are notably different from aminoalkanols such as diaminopropanols.
[0419] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from polyols, preferably from polyols containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or glycerol.
[0420] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said composition C comprises one or more polyols chosen from propylene glycol, propane- 1,3-diol, glycerol and a mixture thereof, better still propylene glycol and glycerol, and even better still glycerol.
[0421] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of organic solvent(s) in said composition C is in the range from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0422] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of polyol(s) in said composition C is in the range from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0423] Water
[0424] Preferably, said composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention also comprises water.
[0425] Preferably, the total water content is in the range from 20% to 98% by weight, preferentially from 40% to 95% by weight, more preferentially from 50% to 92% by weight, even more preferentially from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0426] [)H
[0427] Preferably, the pH of said composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention is between 3 and 13, more preferentially between 5 and 12.5, even more preferentially between 5.5 and 12, better still between 6 and 11.5 and even better still between 8 and 11.The pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents typically used, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
[0428] Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid or orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0429] Among the basifying agents, use may be made of the alkaline agents as described previously.
[0430] Additives
[0431] Composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention may also contain additives commonly used in cosmetics, for instance antifoams, thickeners other than the compounds described previously, moisturizers, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, fragrances, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, reducing agents, preserving agents, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in said composition C in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition C.
[0432] A person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of composition C of the present invention.
[0433] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in thickened form, in particular in the form of a cream, and more particularly in the form of a rich cream.
[0434] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 2000 mPa.s (i.e. 2000 cP), preferentially greater than or equal to 3000 mPa.s (i.e. 3000 cP), more preferentially greater than or equal to 4000 mPa.s (i.e. 4000 cP).
[0435] More preferentially, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range from 2000 mPa.s to 20000 mPa.s, preferentially from 3000 mPa.s to 18000 mPa.s, more preferentially from 3500 mPa.s to 16000 mPa.s, better still from 3800 mPa.s to 15500 mPa.s, even better from 4000 mPa.s to 15400 mPa.s.
[0436] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions according to the invention may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 rheometer, at a spin speed of 200rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0437] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention comprises:
[0438] (i) at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent,
[0439] (ii) at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant; preferably at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) as defined previously,
[0440] (iii) at least one cationic polysaccharide chosen from cationic galactomannan gums; preferably cationic guar gums,
[0441] (iv) at least one additional fatty amine cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain,
[0442] (v) optionally at least one sequestrant,
[0443] (vi) at least one ester of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol; preferably, among the esters of a Cu-Cis carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol,
[0444] (vii) optionally at least one additional fatty substance other than esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol.
[0445] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention comprises:
[0446] (i) at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent,
[0447] (ii) at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant chosen from dicocoylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyldimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferentially from dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, (iii) at least one cationic polysaccharide chosen from cationic galactomannan gums; preferably cationic guar gums,
[0448] (iv) at least one additional fatty amine cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain,(v) at least one sequestrant chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA) and mixtures thereof,
[0449] (vi) at least one ester of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol; preferably from the esters of a Cu-Cis carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol,
[0450] (vii) at least one additional fatty substance other than the esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol, chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0451] Preferably, composition C is free of chemical oxidizing agents, for instance those described below for the oxidizing composition O.
[0452] The oxidizing composition O;
[0453] The treatment agent comprises a composition O comprising:
[0454] - at least one chemical oxidizing agent,
[0455] - at least one anionic surfactant, and
[0456] - optionally at least one C6-C40 fatty substance.
[0457] Chemical oxidizing agents:
[0458] The oxidizing composition O of the treatment agent according to the invention comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
[0459] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “chemical oxidizing agent” means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
[0460] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agents) that may be used may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their optional cofactors), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases, and mixtures thereof.
[0461] More preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof.More preferentially, composition O comprises hydrogen peroxide.
[0462] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in composition O is in the range from 0.1% to 30%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition O.
[0463] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts and mixtures thereof in composition O is in the range from 0.1% to 30%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight and better still from 1.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition O.
[0464] Anionic surfactants:
[0465] The oxidizing composition O of the treatment agent according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant
[0466] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. In the present description, a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of composition O (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
[0467] As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in composition O, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-(Cl-C4)alkyl-N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, fatty acid salts, and the corresponding nonsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise mentioned) generally including from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.
[0468] These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably include from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl poly glyco sidetartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
[0469] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
[0470] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may notably be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0471] Preferably, the oxidizing composition O comprises at least one anionic surfactant chosen from carboxylic (or carboxylate) anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0472] The term “carboxylic anionic surfactant” means an anionic surfactant comprising at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO"), but not comprising any sulfonic or sulfonate functions (-SO3H or -SO3-), or any sulfate functions (-OSO3H or -OSO3 );
[0473] For the purposes of the invention, the anionic surfactants of C6-C40 carboxylic acid type are different from sulfate anionic surfactants. The anionic surfactants of Ce-C40 carboxylic acid type are non-sulfate anionic surfactants. In other words, an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ) and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO") is considered, for the purposes of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, to be a sulfate anionic surfactant.
[0474] The expression “a sulfate anionic surfactant” means an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ), and which can optionally also comprise one or more other functions derived from acids, such as carboxylic acid or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO"), sulfonate functions (-SO3H or -SCE') and / or phosphate functions.
[0475] By way of example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, and also the salts of these compounds, are sulfate anionic surfactants. The alkyl groups of these compounds, mentioned by way of example, include from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and the aryl group may be a phenyl or benzyl group. These compounds, mentioned by way of example,may be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and may include from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
[0476] For the purposes of the invention, the term “ non- sulfate anionic surfactant” means a surfactant which does not come under the definition of a “sulfate anionic surfactant” as defined above.
[0477] Carboxylic anionic surfactants:
[0478] The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ).
[0479] The carboxylate anionic surfactants may be chosen from the following compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-C3o aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof;
[0480] the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30, better still from 10 to 30 or even from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0481] In particular, the carboxylic anionic surfactants may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
[0482] - acyl glutamates, notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 acyl glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamates, and in particular disodium stearoyl glutamate;
[0483] - acyl sarcosinates, notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate;
[0484] - acyl lactylates, notably C12-C28 or even C14-C24 acyl lactylates, such as behenoyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyl lactylate;
[0485] - C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 acylglycinates;
[0486] - (Ce-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, and notably (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates; - polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
[0487] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.According to a particular embodiment, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from those of formula (I) below:
[0488] Ri-C(O)O’ M+(I)
[0489] in which:
[0490] - the radical Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms; and
[0491] - M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0492] Preferentially, the radical Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0493] More preferentially, the radical Ri represents an unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain including from 8 to 30, better still from 10 to 30 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0494] Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0495] Advantageously, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid and isopalmitic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0496] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) in the oxidizing composition O is within the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition O.
[0497] Sulfate anionic surfactants:
[0498] The sulfate anionic surfactants are preferably chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; salts thereof and mixtures thereof;
[0499] the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notablyfrom 8 to 28, even better still from 10 to 24 or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
[0500] these compounds possibly being (poly)oxyalkylenated, notably (poly)oxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0501] Preferably, the sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used are not (poly)glycerolated.
[0502] Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen from:
[0503] - alkyl sulfates, notably C10-C24 or even C12-C22 alkyl sulfates;
[0504] - alkyl ether sulfates, notably C10-C24 or even C12-C22 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
[0505] - salts thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts;
[0506] - and mixtures thereof.
[0507] When the anionic surfactant(s) (carboxylic or sulfate) are in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
[0508] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0509] Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
[0510] More preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen from alkyl sulfates, notably C10-C24 or even C12-C22 alkyl sulfates, salts thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts, and mixtures thereof. Better still, the sulfate anionic surfactant is sodium lauryl sulfate.
[0511] More preferentially, the oxidizing composition O of the invention comprises at least one sulfate anionic surfactant; better still at least one sulfate anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl sulfates, notably C10-C24 or even C12-C22 alkyl sulfates, salts thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium saltsor amino alcohol salts, and mixtures thereof; and better still the oxidizing composition O comprises sodium lauryl sulfate.
[0512] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactant(s) in the oxidizing composition O is within the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition O.
[0513] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, in the oxidizing composition O is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition O.
[0514] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactant(s) chosen from notably C10-C24 alkyl sulfates, in the oxidizing composition O, is within the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition O.
[0515] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) in the oxidizing composition O is within the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition O.
[0516] Possible additional compounds:
[0517] Preferably, the oxidizing composition O of the treatment agent according to the invention also comprises at least one C6-C40 fatty substance as described previously for composition C.More preferentially, the C6-C40 fatty substance(s) optionally present in the oxidizing composition O are chosen from C8-C40, even more preferentially C10-C30, better still C12-C24 and even better still C14-C22 fatty alcohols, better still chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, or even among cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0518] Preferably, when said composition O comprises one or more C6-C40 fatty substances, in particular chosen from C8-C40 fatty alcohols, the total content of C6-C40 fatty substances is in the range from 0.01% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, even better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition O.
[0519] Water
[0520] Preferably, said composition O of the treatment agent according to the invention also comprises water.
[0521] Preferably, the total water content is in the range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferentially from 60% to 98% by weight, more preferentially from 70% to 95% by weight, even more preferentially from 80% to 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition O.
[0522] [)H
[0523] Preferably, the pH of said composition O of the treatment agent according to the invention is between 1.5 and 6, more preferentially between 2 and 5.5, even more preferentially between 2.5 and 5 and better still between 2.5 and 4.5.
[0524] The pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents typically used, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
[0525] Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid or orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0526] Among the basifying agents, use may be made of the alkaline agents as described previously.
[0527] AdditivesComposition O of the treatment agent according to the invention may also contain additives commonly used in cosmetics, for instance antifoams, thickeners, moisturizers, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, fragrances, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, preserving agents, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in said composition O in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition O.
[0528] A person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of composition O of the present invention.
[0529] Preferably, composition O is in thickened form, in particular in the form of a cream, in particular a fluid cream.
[0530] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition O of the treatment agent according to the invention comprises:
[0531] - at least one chemical oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof,
[0532] - at least one anionic surfactant chosen from carboxylic (or carboxylate) anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably from sulfate anionic surfactants,
[0533] - at least one C6-C40 fatty substance, preferably at least one C8-C40 fatty alcohol.
[0534] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxidizing composition O does not comprise an oxidation dye, as defined above for composition C.
[0535] The process:
[0536] Another subject of the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying a treatment agent according to the invention as defined previously onto said keratin fibres.
[0537] Preferably, the treatment process according to the invention is a process for the oxidation dyeing and / or lightening of keratin fibres.When the treatment process according to the invention is a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention necessarily comprises at least one oxidation dye, as described previously.
[0538] When the treatment process according to the invention is a process for lightening keratin fibres, composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention necessarily comprises at least one alkaline agent as described previously.
[0539] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular a process for the oxidation dyeing and / or lightening of keratin fibres, comprising:
[0540] (i) a step of preparing a composition (Me) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of:
[0541] a composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention, as described previously, and preferably not comprising any chemical oxidizing agents; with an oxidizing composition O of the treatment agent according to the invention, as described previously; and then
[0542] (ii) a step of applying said composition (Me) to the keratin fibres.
[0543] This step (i) of preparing a composition (Me) is advantageously performed at the time of use, just before the application of composition (Me) to the keratin fibres.
[0544] Preferably, according to this preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixing of said composition C with the oxidizing composition O is performed in a weight ratio (C) / (O) in the range from 1 / 3 to 1 / 1; more preferentially from 1 / 2 to 1 / 1.
[0545] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular a process for the oxidation dyeing and / or lightening of keratin fibres, comprising the sequential application of:
[0546] - a composition C of the treatment agent according to the invention, as described previously, and preferably not comprising any chemical oxidizing agents; and - an oxidizing composition O of the treatment agent according to the invention, as described previously.
[0547] According to this embodiment of the invention, composition C is applied to the keratin fibres before or after the application of the oxidizing composition to said keratin fibres. Preferably, according to this embodiment of the invention, compositionC is applied to the keratin fibres before the application of the oxidizing composition to said keratin fibres.
[0548] According to this particular embodiment of the invention, the time between the sequential applications of composition C and the oxidizing composition O to the keratin fibres is preferably within the range from 1 second to 30 minutes, more preferentially from 2 seconds to 20 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes.
[0549] The keratin fibre treatment process according to the present invention may optionally comprise additional steps, for example a step comprising a leave-on time after application and / or rinsing and / or drying.
[0550] The composition(s) of the process according to the invention may be applied to dry or wet hair, and preferably to dry hair, and also to all types of light or dark, natural or dyed, permanent- waved, bleached or relaxed fibres.
[0551] The application of the composition(s) of the process according to the invention to the keratin fibres may be performed via any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush, with the hand or with the fingers.
[0552] The treatment process according to the invention is generally performed at room temperature (between 15 °C and 30°C).
[0553] The process of the invention may notably comprise a step of washing the hair before applying the composition(s) described previously. It may also comprise a washing step after the application of the composition(s) described previously.
[0554] According to one embodiment of the invention, the process consists in applying to the keratin fibres an effective amount of the composition(s) described previously, optionally massaging the fibres, optionally leaving the composition to stand on the fibres, and rinsing.
[0555] The leave-on time of compositions C and / or O and / or of composition (Me) on the keratin fibres may be between a few seconds and 60 minutes and preferably between 1 second and 30 minutes.
[0556] Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water after the step(s) of applying the compositions C and / or O and / or the composition (Me).
[0557] An optional step of drying the keratin fibres may be performed.Another subject of the present invention also relates to the use of the treatment agent according to the invention as defined previously, for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0558] Preferably, the treatment agent according to the invention as defined previously is used for oxidation dyeing and / or lightening keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
[0559] Composition M:
[0560] A subject of the invention is also a dye composition M derived from the mixing of compositions C and O of the treatment agent according to the invention.
[0561] The dye composition M according to the invention thus comprises:
[0562] - at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent,
[0563] - at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant,
[0564] - at least one ester of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, which is not (poly)oxyalkylenated and not (poly)glycerolated,
[0565] - at least one chemical oxidizing agent, and
[0566] - at least one anionic surfactant.
[0567] All the examples, the optional additional ingredients, the preferences and the embodiments described above for compositions C and O of the agent for treating keratin fibres according to the invention also apply for the dye composition M resulting from the mixing of these compositions C and O described previously.
[0568] Composition Me described in the context of the treatment process according to the invention is a dye composition M according to the invention.
[0569] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in a composition M according to the invention is within the range from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition M according to the invention.
[0570] Preferably, the dye composition M according to the invention comprises water.
[0571] More preferentially, the total water content is in the range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferentially from 60% to 98% by weight, more preferentially from 65%to 95% by weight, even more preferentially from 70% to 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dye composition M.
[0572] Preferably, the dye composition M according to the invention is derived from the mixing of a composition C with an oxidizing composition O, as described previously, in a weight ratio (C) / (O) in the range from 1 / 3 to 1 / 1; more preferentially from 1 / 2 to 1 / 1.
[0573] The pH of the dye composition M generally ranges from 8 to 13, preferentially from 8.5 to 12, and better still from 9 to 11.5.
[0574] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the dye composition M according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 200 MPa.s, more preferentially greater than or equal to 300 MPa.s, even more preferentially greater than or equal to 400 MPa.s, and better still greater than or equal to 410 MPa.s.
[0575] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 rheometer and at a rotation speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0576] Composition C according to the invention and the oxidizing composition O are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by suitable application means, which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.
[0577] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
[0578] Examples
[0579] Example 1:
[0580] A treatment agent according to the invention comprising a composition C and an oxidizing composition O was prepared from the ingredients described in Tables 1 and 2 below. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).[Table 1]
[0581]
[0582] [Table 2]:
[0583]
[0584] At the time of use, composition C and the oxidizing composition O are mixed in a weight ratio of 1 / 1.5, to obtain a dye composition M (z.e. derived from the mixture C+O\
[0585] Composition M derived from the mixture is applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% white hair strands, in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair. After leaving on for 30 minutes at a temperature of 27°C, the hair is rinsed and dried in an oven (60°C).
[0586] The dyeing of the hair treated with composition M presents a good intensity, chromaticity and fastness, with also with a good color build-up and low selectivity.
[0587] Composition M leads to good comfort of the scalp during application, and has a pleasant odour, and also a creamy and fondant texture during application allowing homogeneous deposition thereof on the keratin fibres (no running).
[0588] The hair treated with composition M is particularly shiny, light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to disentangle and more manageable.Example 2:
[0589] The compositions as described in the table below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).
[0590] [Table 3]
[0591]
[0592] PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate is a (poly)oxyalkylenated ester. PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate does not fall within the definition of non-(poly)oxyalkylenated and non-(poly)glycerolated esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol according to the invention.
[0593] Protocol:
[0594] At the time of use, each of composition Cl and C2 is mixed with the oxidizing composition O from example 1 according to a C:O ratio of 1:1.5.
[0595] Each of mixtures M(ci+o> (invention) and M(C2+o) (comparative) is then applied to a lock of natural hair containing 90% white hair strands (NW) in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.After a leave-on time of 32 min on a hotplate at 27 °C, each lock of hair is rinsed and dried.
[0596] Evaluation:
[0597] The colorimetric measurements were performed on each of the treated locks using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0598] L* represents the intensity of the hair dyeing, measured on the locks of dyed hair.
[0599] The lower the L* value, the darker, more powerful, more intense the hair dyeing.
[0600] The results obtained are collated in Table 4 below:
[0601] [Table 4]
[0602]
[0603] The hair dyeing obtained with the mixture Mei +o according to the invention exhibits lower L* values than the hair dyeing obtained with the comparative mixture MC2 +o.
[0604] The mixture Mci+o according to the invention provides a more intense hair dyeing than with the comparative mixture Mc2+o.
Claims
CLAIMS1. Treatment agent comprising:(i) a composition C comprising:a. at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent,b. at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant, ande. at least one ester of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, which is not (poly)oxyalkylenated and not (poly)glycerolated; and(ii) an oxidizing composition O comprising:c. at least one chemical oxidizing agent, andd. at least one anionic surfactant.
2. Treatment agent according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidation dye(s) of composition C are chosen from oxidation bases, couplers; preferably from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, paraaminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene -based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxy ethyl- 3, 4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
3. Treatment agent according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkaline agent(s) of composition C are chosen from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof; even better still ammonium hydroxide.
4. Treatment agent according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of alkaline agent(s) in composition C is within the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight,even more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of composition C.
5. Treatment agent according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) in composition C are chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:in which:- Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,- R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,- A and A’ represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and- X" represents an anion.
6. Treatment agent according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol are chosen from esters of a C8-C22 carboxylic acid and of a C8-C22 alcohol; more preferentially from esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol; even more preferentially from esters of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol.
7. Treatment agent according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition C further comprises at least one of the following compounds:- at least one cationic polysaccharide,- at least one additional cationic surfactant different from quaternary ester cationic surfactants; preferably at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant,- at least one sequestrant,- at least one additional fatty substance different from the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol.
8. Treatment agent according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the chemical oxidizing agent(s) of the oxidizing composition O are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof;more preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof;better still hydrogen peroxide.
9. Treatment agent according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the oxidizing composition O is in the range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition O.
10. Treatment agent according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) of the oxidizing composition O are chosen from carboxylic anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; preferably from sulfate anionic surfactants; more preferentially from C10-C24 alkyl sulfates, and salts thereof.
11. Treatment agent according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of anionic surfactant(s) in the oxidizing composition O is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition O.
12. Treatment process, preferably for the oxidation dyeing and / or lightening of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibres a treatment agent according to the invention as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 11.
13. Treatment process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises:(i) a step of preparing a composition (Me) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of:a composition C as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 7, and preferably not comprising any chemical oxidizing agents; withan oxidizing composition O as defined in any one of Claims 1 and 8 to 11; and then(ii) a step of applying said composition (Me) onto the keratin fibres.
14. Use of the treatment agent as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 11, for the oxidation dyeing and / or lightening of keratin fibres, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair.
15. Dye composition comprising:- at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent, as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 3,- at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant, as defined according to Claim 1 or 5, - at least one ester of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, which is not (poly)oxyalkylenated and not (poly)glycerolated, as defined according to Claim 1 or 6,- at least one chemical oxidizing agent, as defined according to Claim 1 or 8, and - at least one anionic surfactant, as defined according to Claim 1 or 10.