Composition comprising a dye, a particular cationic GUAR and an anionic surfactant

A composition combining cationic guar and anionic surfactants addresses issues in hair dyeing by enhancing dyeing power, color uniformity, and environmental friendliness, achieving intense, long-lasting, and sustainable hair color without scalp irritation.

WO2026139312A1PCT designated stage Publication Date: 2026-07-02LOREAL SA

Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
LOREAL SA
Filing Date
2025-12-17
Publication Date
2026-07-02

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair dye compositions face issues such as unsatisfactory dyeing power, limited color range, uneven color distribution, damage to hair, unpleasant odor, and environmental impact, along with the need for separate conditioning steps and use of petrochemical compounds.

Method used

A composition comprising a cationic guar (Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) and an anionic surfactant, specifically C6-C40 carboxylic fatty acid or sulfate anionic surfactants, is used to enhance dyeing properties, providing intense, long-lasting, and homogeneous color with reduced selectivity, while being environmentally friendly.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves better dyeing properties with low selectivity, persistence against external agents, good cosmetic qualities, and environmental sustainability, without damaging the hair or irritating the scalp.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to the field of hair dyeing. It aims to provide a composition capable of serving as a basis for the formulation of all types of compositions that can be used in a process for artificially dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair. The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one dye, at least one particular cationic guar and at least one anionic surfactant chosen from carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising applying the composition according to the invention to said fibres.
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Description

[0001] COMPOSITION COMPRISING A DYE, A PARTICULAR CATIONIC GUAR AND AN ANIONIC SURFACTANT

[0002] The present invention relates to the field of hair dyeing. It aims to provide a composition capable of serving as a basis for the formulation of all types of compositions that can be used in a process for artificially dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair.

[0003] The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one dye, at least one particular cationic guar and at least one anionic surfactant chosen from carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0004] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising applying the composition according to the invention to said fibres.

[0005] Many people have sought for a long time to modify the colour of their hair and in particular to mask their grey hair.

[0006] In the field of dyeing hair keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, it is already known practice to dye hair keratin fibres via various techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent dyeing, or dye precursors for permanent dyeing.

[0007] There are essentially three types of process for dyeing the hair:

[0008] a) “permanent” dyeing, the function of which is to afford a substantial modification to the natural colour and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fibre and forms the dye via an oxidative condensation process;

[0009] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct dyeing, which does not use the oxidative condensation process and withstands four or five shampoo washes; it consists in dyeing keratin fibres with dye compositions containing direct dyes;

[0010] c) temporary dyeing, which gives rise to a modification of the natural colour of the hair that lasts from one shampoo wash to the next, and which serves to enhance or correct a shade that has already been obtained. It may also be likened to a “makeup” process.

[0011] It is thus known practice to dye keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, to obtain “permanent” dyeing with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, notably oxidation bases, such as ortho- or paraphenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolopyridines. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or colour modifiers. The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained.

[0012] However, the use of these dye compositions may entail a certain number of drawbacks.

[0013] Specifically, after application to keratin fibres, the dyeing power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or may even be weak, and lead to a limited range of colours.

[0014] The colourings may also be insufficiently fast with respect to external agents such as light, shampoo washing or perspiration, and may also be too selective, i.e. the difference in colouring is too great along the same keratin fibre that is differently sensitized between its end and its root.

[0015] The hair may moreover be weakened or damaged by repeated dyeing, such that users often also have to resort to separate hair care operations in order to condition the hair. This treatment of the hair in two separate steps (dyeing, then conditioning) is more complicated to set up, time-consuming and expensive for the user.

[0016] In addition, current hair dye compositions generally have the following drawbacks: conditioning properties that are not entirely satisfactory, an odour that may be unpleasant, discomfort of the scalp and / or a texture that sometimes makes it difficult to distribute homogeneously over the keratin fibres (dripping), in particular the hair.

[0017] These findings are behind the interest in developing new compositions which can serve as a basis for the formulation of all types of compositions that can be used in a process for the dyeing of keratin fibres, making it possible to obtain dyeing of keratin fibres that is intense, long-lasting, chromatic, with good colour build-up and with low selectivity (i.e. homogeneous from root to tip), and which are capable of leading to dyeing that is resistant to the various attacks to which the fibres may be subjected, such as climatic conditions, washing and perspiration, and also capable of resulting in good dyeing performance even after a period of storage.

[0018] It is also of interest that these new compositions be gentle on the scalp, that they have good use properties such as being easy to mix, having a pleasant smell, a pleasant texture, that they be easy to apply, and that they also impart care / conditioning properties on the keratin fibres, more particularly softness to the touch, suppleness, shine and / or smoothness to the touch.Moreover, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. products designed and developed while taking account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges.

[0019] It is thus essential to propose more sustainable compositions, thereby making it possible to tackle these environmental issues.

[0020] In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0021] These aims are achieved with the present invention, a subject of which is notably a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0022] (i) at least one dye,

[0023] (ii) at least one cationic guar with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s, measured at a concentration of 1% by weight in water at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure, and (iii) at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C40 carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0024] It has been found that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain better dyeing properties. In particular, the colouring obtained has low selectivity with good colour build-up, intensity, chromaticity and fastness.

[0025] The keratin fibre colourings obtained with the composition according to the invention are particularly persistent with respect to external agents (washing, light, climatic conditions, friction, perspiration), and especially persistent with respect to multiple shampoo washes.

[0026] The compositions according to the invention have good use qualities and good cosmetic properties, in particular an agreeable odour and a texture which differs from the hair dyeing compositions usually used, with a creamy texture and spreading particularly smoothly on application, in particular in contact with keratin fibres such as the hair. The texture of the compositions according to the invention is particularly appreciated in that it is not very sticky and fluid, enabling its use for various types of application such as using a bowl or a squeezy applicator bottle.

[0027] The compositions according to the invention successfully combine a firm texture which spreads easily on application, with at the same time homogeneousdeposition thereof on the keratin fibres (no dripping), in particular keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0028] It has been found that the compositions according to the invention do not irritate the scalp during application.

[0029] It has also been found that the hair thus treated is particularly glossy, light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to disentangle and more manageable.

[0030] In addition, the compositions according to the invention are particularly environmentally friendly, notably in that they comprise few or no compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0031] A subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin fibres.

[0032] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become more clearly apparent on reading the description and the example that follows.

[0033] In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0034] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;

[0035] - the expression “between...and...” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from...to...” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;

[0036] - for the purposes of the present invention, the term “greater than” and the term “less than” refer to an open range which is strictly greater or strictly less, respectively, and thus the limits are not included;

[0037] - according to the present patent application, “keratin fibres” means more particularly human keratin fibres, more preferentially the hair, the eyebrows and the eyelashes, more preferentially still the hair;

[0038] - for the purposes of the present invention, “hair” means head hair. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows or eyelashes;

[0039] - according to the present patent application, “fatty acid” means an organic acid comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0040] - according to the present patent application, “fatty alcohol” means an alcoholcomprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0041] - for the purposes of the present invention, “(poly)oxyalkylenated compound” means a compound comprising one or more ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups; preferably, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups may range from 1 to 150; more preferentially, the (poly)oxyalkylenated compound does not comprise any glycerol groups;

[0042] - for the purposes of the present invention, “(poly)glycerolated compound” means a compound comprising one or more glycerol groups; preferably, the number of glycerol groups may range from 1 to 30.

[0043] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is silicone-free. The term “silicone-free” means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content of less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and better still is free of silicone (0%).

[0044] The term “silicone” means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being connected directly to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones and dimethiconols.

[0045] Dyes

[0046] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one dye.

[0047] Preferably, the dye(s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] According to a first embodiment according to the invention, the composition comprises:

[0049] (i) at least one oxidation dye,(ii) at least one cationic guar with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimoniurn chloride, and having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s, measured at a concentration of 1% by weight in water at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure, and (iii) at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C40 carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] According to a second embodiment according to the invention, the composition comprises:

[0051] (i) at least one direct dye,

[0052] (ii) at least one cationic guar with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimoniurn chloride, and having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s, measured at a concentration of 1% by weight in water at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure, and (iii) at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C40 carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] According to a third embodiment according to the invention, the composition comprises:

[0054] (i) at least one oxidation dye and at least one direct dye,

[0055] (ii) at least one cationic guar with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimoniurn chloride, and having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s, measured at a concentration of 1% by weight in water at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure, and (iii) at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C40 carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] The first embodiment above is particularly preferred. All of the features and preferences described below apply, independently of one another, to all of the embodiments (first, second and third) above.

[0057] Oxidation dyes:

[0058] The oxidation dyes (also referred to as “oxidation dye precursors”) may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.

[0059] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.

[0060] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are notably chosen from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, amines or alkanolamines.

[0061] Moreover, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0062] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from paraphenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para- aminophenols, orthoaminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of the salts.

[0063] Para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, paraphenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of salts thereof.Among the abovementioned para-phenylenediamines, preference is given in particular to para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy -para-phenylenediamine, 2, 6-dimethyl -para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of salts thereof.

[0064] Bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned include, for example, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)- 1 ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and l,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0065] Para-aminophenols that are mentioned include, for example, paraaminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.

[0066] Ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned include, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.

[0067] Heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned include, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.

[0068] Pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned include the compounds for example described in patents GB 1 026978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.Other pyridine oxidation bases that may be used in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[ 1 ,5 -a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l ,5-a]pyrid-7 -yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3 ,6-diaminopyrazolo [ 1 ,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino] ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0069] More particularly, the oxidation bases that may be used in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridines and preferably substituted on the 2 carbon atom with:

[0070] a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, it being possible for said alkyl group to be substituted with at least one hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group;

[0071] b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted with one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Ci -Chalky Ipiperazinium group; or

[0072] c) a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a P -hydroxy alkoxy group, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0073] Pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned include the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2, 4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and their addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts, and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

[0074] Pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned include the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2733749 and DE 19543988, such as 4,5-diamino- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 -(4’ -chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl- 1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4.5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-(4’-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2’-aminoethyl)amino- 1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3.4.5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino- l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino- 1-methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and / or the solvates of the salts. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.

[0075] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferentially 4.5-diamino- l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.

[0076] Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned comprise diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6, 7 -dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino- 1,2-dimethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-diethyl- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,2-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)- 1 ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-l,2-diethyl-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, their salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts.

[0077] Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.

[0078] Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-P-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.

[0079] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases, the total content of oxidation base(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0081] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation base(s) chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%,even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0082] In one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof.

[0083] The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibres.

[0084] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers.

[0085] Among the couplers that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, metadiphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, and also the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts thereof.

[0086] Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro- 1 ,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-l-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(P-hydroxyethylamino)-l-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, l,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-l -dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, a-naphthol, 2-methyl-l-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol and 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts, and the corresponding mixtures.

[0087] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with abase such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, amines or alkanolamines.

[0088] Moreover, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched Ci to C4 alcohol, such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0089] Preferably, the coupler(s) are chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof.

[0090] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0091] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3 ,4-methylenedioxy aniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof.

[0093] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye different from the oxidation dyes chosen from the group consisting ofresorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof.

[0094] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases, couplers and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, coupling agents based on naphthalene, heterocyclic coupling agents, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof and / or solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially still from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline and 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, the addition salts thereof, the solvates thereof and / or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye, the total content of oxidation dye(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0096] Direct dyes:

[0097] The direct dyes may be synthetic or natural.

[0098] The term “direct dye" means coloured species. These are dyes which will spread superficially on the fibre.

[0099] These synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes that are commonly used, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1 -amino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l,4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)benzene; 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(P-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene; l-amino-3-methyl-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene ; 1 - amino-2-nitro-4- P -hydroxyethylamino- 5 -chlorobenzene ; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 ,2-bis(P-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-5 -nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethyloxy-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-methoxy-2- P-hydroxy ethylamino- 5 -nitrobenzene ; 1 - P -hydroxyethyloxy-3 -methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethylamino-4-P,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P,y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -P-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-P-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy -2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-hydroxy-6-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1 -hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

[0101] Among the azo direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

[0102] Among the hydrazono direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Yellow 87.

[0103] Among the nitroaryl direct dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A,A'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)- 2-nitrophenylenediamine .

[0104] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50.

[0105] Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and also the following compounds : 1 -N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-P-hydroxyethyl- 1 ,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, l,4-bis(P,y-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

[0106] Among the azine direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

[0107] Among the indoamine direct dyes, mention may be made of: 2-P-hydroxyethlyamino-5-[bis(P-4’-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2’ -methoxy-4’ -amino)anilino- 1 ,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2’ -chloro-4’-hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3’-chloro-4’ -methylamino )phenylureido-6-methyl- 1 ,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4’ -N- (ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinoneimine.

[0108] The natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leucoindigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamin, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or ortho-diphenols.

[0109] Among the ortho-diphenols that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, haematein, haematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, aesculetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanidin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, pro anthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2-methyl-l,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and natural extracts containing same.

[0110] More preferentially, the direct dye(s) are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, nitroaryl direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0111] More preferentially, the direct dyes are chosen from ionic direct dyes, better still from cationic direct dyes.More preferentially still, the cationic direct dyes are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] When the composition comprises at least one direct dye, the total content of direct dye(s) is preferably in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0113] When the composition comprises at least one cationic direct dye, the total content of cationic direct dye(s) is preferably in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0114] Preferably, the total content of dye(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.002% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.005% to 5%, even better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0115] Cationic guars

[0116] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic guar with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0117] The cationic guar used in the composition according to the invention has a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s, measured at a concentration of 1% by weight in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (i.e. 1.013xl05Pa).

[0118] For the purposes of the present invention, the cationic guar(s) with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride used in the composition according to the invention are not surfactants.

[0119] In particular, the cationic guar(s) with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride used in the composition according to the invention are different from fatty amine cationic surfactants and quaternary ester cationic surfactants as described below.

[0120] The dynamic viscosities of cationic guars with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride may for example be measured using a rheometersuch as the Brookfield RVT viscometer, with a no. 2 spindle (spindle 2), at a spin speed of 20 rpm, the measurement being carried out after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure, and at a concentration of 1% by weight in water.

[0121] For example, a cationic guar with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s (at 25°C and atmospheric pressure) that can be used in the composition according to the invention is referenced under the CAS number 65497-29-2 and is commercially available under the name Naternal® Care Clear SGI from the company Syensqo.

[0122] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is devoid of any cationic polymer other than the cationic guars with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s.

[0123] The expression "devoid of any cationic polymer other than the cationic guars with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s" means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise cationic polymers other than the cationic guars with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride described in the present patent application. In other words, the composition according to the invention preferably does not comprise one or more cationic polymers different from the cationic guars with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride described in the present patent application.

[0124] The term "cationic polymer” means any non-silicone polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0125] Preferably, the total content of cationic guar(s) with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s (at 25°C and atmospheric pressure) in the composition according to the invention, is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Preferably, the total content of cationic guar(s) with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s (at 25°C and atmospheric pressure) present in the composition according to the invention, is less than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferentially still less than or equal to 3% by weight, better still less than or equal to 2% by weight, even better still less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0126] Anionic surfactants:

[0127] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C40 carboxylic fatty acid (or carboxylate) anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. In the present description, a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

[0129] The term "C6-C40 carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactant” means an anionic surfactant comprising at least one hydrocarbon chain of 6 to 40 carbon atoms and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-), but not comprising a sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3"), or sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-).

[0130] For the purposes of the invention, C6-C40 carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants are different from sulfate anionic surfactants. The C6-C40 carboxylic acid anionic surfactants are non-sulfate anionic surfactants. In other words, an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO") is considered, for the purposes of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, to be a sulfate anionic surfactant.

[0131] The term “a sulfate anionic surfactant” means an anionic surfactant which comprises at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ), and which may optionally also comprise one or more other functions derived from acids, such as carboxylic acid or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO"), sulfonate functions (-SO3H or -SCh')and / or phosphate functions.

[0132] By way of example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, and the salts of these compounds, are sulfate anionic surfactants. The alkyl groups of these compounds, mentioned by way of example, comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and the aryl group may be a phenyl or benzyl group. These compounds, mentioned by way of example, may be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and may comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

[0133] For the purposes of the invention, “ non- sulfate anionic surfactant” means a surfactant that does not come under the definition of “sulfate anionic surfactant” as defined above.

[0134] Carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants:

[0135] The carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants that may be used therefore comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO") and at least one hydrocarbon chain containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30, more preferentially from 10 to 30, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0136] Preferably, the carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants are chosen from those of formula (I) below:

[0137] Ri-C(O)O’ M+(I)

[0138] in which:

[0139] - the radical Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms; and

[0140] - M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.

[0141] Preferably, the radical Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 8 to 30, better still from 10 to 30 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0142] More preferentially, the radical Ri represents a linear or branched, unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 8 to 30, better still from 10 to 30 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0143] Preferably, the carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants that may be used are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.More preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0144] More preferentially still, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from lauric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, undecylenic acid, isocetylic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearylic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, cetylstearylic acid, and mixtures thereof; better still from oleic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, and mixtures thereof; even better still oleic acid.

[0145] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises oleic acid.

[0146] Preferably, the total content of carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] Preferably, the total content of carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactant(s) chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] Sulfate anionic surfactants:

[0149] The sulfate anionic surfactants are preferably chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; salts thereof and mixtures thereof;

[0150] the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 28, even better still from 10 to 24 or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0151] these compounds possibly being (poly)oxyalkylenated, notably (poly)oxyethylenated,and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0152] Preferably, the sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used are not (poly)glycerolated.

[0153] Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen from:

[0154] - alkyl sulfates, notably C10-C24 or even C12-C22 alkyl sulfates;

[0155] - alkyl ether sulfates, notably C10-C24 or even C12-C22 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

[0156] - salts thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts;

[0157] - and mixtures thereof.

[0158] When the anionic surfactant(s) (carboxylic or sulfate) are in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.

[0159] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0160] Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0161] Preferably, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] Preferably, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl poly ether sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] Preferably, the total content of carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactant(s) and sulfate anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] Cationic surfactants

[0165] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant.

[0166] The term “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only cationic groups. In the present description, a species is termed as being “cationic” when it bears at least one permanent positive charge or when it can be ionized as a positively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any anionic charge.

[0167] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0168] More preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined below, and mixtures thereof.

[0169] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the cationic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants; more preferentially from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.According to a second embodiment of the invention, the cationic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from quaternary ester cationic surfactants; more preferentially from cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined below.

[0170] More preferentially still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two cationic surfactants.

[0171] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant and at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant.

[0172] Even better still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a first cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one Ce-C30 hydrocarbon chain and at least a second cationic surfactant of formula (A) as defined below.

[0173] Fatty amine cationic surfactants:

[0174] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from (optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated) primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0175] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof, and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain.

[0176] Said fatty amine cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, in other words they do not contain any Si-0 groups.

[0177] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants that may be used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.

[0178] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants that are useful according to the invention comprise at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0179] As fatty amine cationic surfactants, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0180] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0181] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that may be used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.

[0182] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may most particularly be made of the amidoamines of formula RCONHR"N(R')2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;

[0183] - R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0184] - R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0185] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stear amidopropyl dimethylamine, isostear amidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0186] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, bras sicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, bras sicamidopropyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0187] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they may “quaternize” in situ).

[0188] Preferably, the fatty amine cationic surfactants (ii) are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;

[0189] more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;

[0190] more preferentially still from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;

[0191] and even better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0192] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amine cationic surfactants, the total content of fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

[0193] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amidoamine cationic surfactants, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0194] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amidoamine cationic surfactants of formula RCONHR"N(R')2, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR"N(R')2 described above is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0195] Quaternary ester cationic surfactants:

[0196] For the purposes of the invention, the term “quaternary ester cationic surfactant” means a cationic surfactant comprising at least one carboxylic ester group and at least one quaternary ammonium group.

[0197] Preferably, the quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:

[0198]

[0199] in which:

[0200] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,

[0201] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,

[0202] - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and

[0203] - X" represents an anion.

[0204] Preferably, Ri and R2 are linear.

[0205] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are saturated.

[0206] According to another embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are unsaturated.Preferably, Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group.

[0207] Preferably, A and A' represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group. Preferably, A and A' are identical.

[0208] Preferably, R3 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and better still R3 represents a methyl group.

[0209] Preferably, R4 is chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, more preferentially Ci-C2 alkyl groups, better still a methyl group; b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, more preferentially C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups, better still the CH2CH2OH group.

[0210] The anion X" preferably represents a) a halide, in particular a chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, c) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, d) a C1-C4 alkyl aryl sulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, j) any other ammonium-compatible anion bearing an ester function.

[0211] More preferentially, the anion X ’ represents a) a halide or b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate. Even more preferentially, the anion X- represents a chloride ion or a metho sulfate group.

[0212] Said quaternary ester cationic surfactants, in particular of formula (A), are different from the fatty amine cationic surfactants described above.

[0213] Advantageously, said quaternary ester cationic surfactants may be in the form of a salt, such as a salt of a halide, C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, C1-C4 alkyl aryl sulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or lactate, or any other compatible anion; preferably a halide or Ci-C4 alkyl sulfate salt.

[0214] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:

[0215] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferentially a C9-C21 hydrocarbon group, and even more preferentially a C11-C17 hydrocarbon group, which is preferably linear, and saturated or unsaturated;

[0216] - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and even more preferentially a C2 alkyl group; preferably, A and A' are identical;- Ra represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, more preferentially a C1-C2 alkyl group, and better still R3 represents a methyl group;

[0217] - R4 represents a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, more preferentially a C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl group or a C1-C4 and more preferentially C1-C2 alkyl group, better still a methyl group; - X" represents (a) a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate, c) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfonate, d) a C1-C4 alkyl aryl sulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid, such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferentially, the anion X" represents a) a halide or b) a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate; even more preferentially, the anion X" represents a chloride ion or a metho sulfate group.

[0218] Preferentially, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that:

[0219] - Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear, saturated C9-C21 hydrocarbon group,

[0220] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from C1-C2 alkyl groups and C2-C3 hydroxy alkyl groups,

[0221] - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a C1-C2 alkyl group; preferably A and A’ are identical; and

[0222] - X" represents an anion chosen from halides and C1-C4 alkyl sulfate groups.

[0223] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially still from dipalmitoylethyl hydroxy ethylmonium metho sulfate.

[0224] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) in salt form, in particular a dipalmitoylethyl hydroxy ethylmonium metho sulfate.Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more quaternary ester cationic surfactants, the total content of quaternary ester cationic surfactants(s) is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0225] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A), the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0226] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) chosen from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0227] Preferably, when the composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Preferably, when they are present, the total content of fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) and quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 7% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0228] Esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol

[0229] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one ester of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol.

[0230] The term “ester” means, in the usual way, an ester of a carboxylic acid and of an alcohol.

[0231] According to the invention, said esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol do not comprise any monosaccharide and / or polysaccharide units. Said esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol according to the invention are different from the esters and diesters of sugars and of Ce to C30 fatty acids as described below and optionally present in the composition according to the invention as additional fatty substances.

[0232] The esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol according to the invention are non-silicone (they do not comprise any Si-0 bonds). They are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0233] The ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol that may be used in the context of the present invention are preferably esters of a C2-C32, better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), it being possible for said acid to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups.

[0234] Said carboxylic acid may be a monocarboxylic acid or a polycarboxylic acid, preferably a monocarboxylic acid.

[0235] Said carboxylic acid may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said acid is not substituted.

[0236] Advantageously, said carboxylic acid is a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, even better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22, monoacid.Most particularly, said acid may be a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, in particular C10-C20, or even C12-C18, or branched to C3-C11, better still C4-C10, or even to C5-C9, monoacid.

[0237] The ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol that may be used in the context of the present invention are preferably esters of carboxylic acid and of a C2-C32, better still C3-C28, or even C4-C22 alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), said alcohol possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted.

[0238] According to the invention, said alcohol, which makes it possible to form by esterification the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol according to the invention, is a monoalcohol (i.e. alcohol comprising a single hydroxyl group -OH) or a diol (i.e. alcohol comprising two hydroxyl groups -OH), preferably a monoalcohol. According to the invention, said alcohol does not comprise three or more hydroxyl groups -OH. In other words, according to the invention, said alcohol does not comprise more than two hydroxyl groups -OH. According to the invention, said alcohol is not a glycerol.

[0239] Said alcohol may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated. Preferably, said alcohol is not substituted.

[0240] Advantageously, said alcohol is a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 monoalcohol.

[0241] Most particularly, said alcohol may be a saturated (unsubstituted) linear Cs-C22, notably C10-C20 or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13 or even C3-C9 monoalcohol.

[0242] Thus, the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol that may be used in the context of the present invention are advantageously, alone or as a mixture, esters of a C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 carboxylic acid (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), said acid possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted, for example with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups; and of a C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 alcohol (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), said alcohol possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and optionally substituted.Among the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol that may be used, mention may notably be made of esters of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 monoacids or polyacids and of aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 monoalcohols or diols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0243] Preferably, mention may be made of esters of a linear or branched, saturated (and unsubstituted) C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 monoacid; and of a linear or branched, saturated C1-C40, in particular C2-C32, better still C3-C28 or even C4-C22 monoalcohol.

[0244] In particular, mention may be made of esters of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, notably C10-C20 or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C11, better still C4-C10 or even C5-C9 monoacid; and of a saturated (unsubstituted) linear C8-C22, notably C10-C20 or even C12-C18, or branched C3-C15, better still C3-C13 or even C3-C9 monoalcohol.

[0245] Mention may be made more particularly, alone or as a mixture, of:

[0246] - ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate or 2-octyldecyl palmitate;

[0247] - isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate;

[0248] - isoamyl laurate, isocetyl laurate or 2-hexyldecyl laurate;

[0249] - isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate or 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate;

[0250] - isodecyl neopentanoate or isostearyl neopentanoate;

[0251] - 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isocetyl stearate or isobutyl stearate;

[0252] - isostearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate or isodecyl octanoate;

[0253] - decyl oleate or isodecyl oleate;

[0254] - isocetyl isostearate;

[0255] - octyldodecyl erucate or oleyl erucate;

[0256] - octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate;

[0257] - isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate.

[0258] Advantageously, the ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol are chosen from solid esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, i.e. those with a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).Advantageously, the ester(s) of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol are chosen from esters of a C8-C22 carboxylic acid and of a C8-C22 alcohol; more preferentially from esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol; even more preferentially from esters of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol.

[0259] Among said esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol, mention may notably be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C12-C20 or branched C12-C20 aliphatic mono- or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C12-C20 or branched C12-C20 aliphatic monoalcohols or diols.

[0260] Preferably, use is made of one or more esters of a C12-C20 monocarboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 monoalcohol; more preferentially one or more esters of a C14-C18 monocarboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 monoalcohol.

[0261] Preferably, one or more esters of a linear, saturated C12-C20 monocarboxylic acid and of a linear, saturated C12-C20 monoalcohol are used; more preferentially, one or more esters of a linear, saturated C14-C18 monocarboxylic acid and of a linear, saturated C14-C18 monoalcohol.

[0262] Mention may be made in particular of esters of myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, and of myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol or stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl esters (INCI name: Cetyl esters).

[0263] Preferably, when it (they) is (are) present, the total content of ester(s) of a Ci-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0264] Preferably, when it (they) is (are) present, the total content of ester(s) of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0265] Preferably, when it (they) is (are) present, the total content of ester(s) of a C14-Ci8 carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol in the composition according to theinvention is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 10% by weight, better still from 3% to 8% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0266] Additional fatty substances:

[0267] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one additional fatty substance different from the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol as described above.

[0268] According to the invention, said additional fatty substances are different from oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, fatty amine and quaternary ester cationic surfactants, cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol and sequestrants as described above.

[0269] For the purposes of the invention, said additional fatty substances are different from fatty acids.

[0270] The term ‘‘‘f’ atty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa) (solubility in water of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0271] The additional fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0272] Preferably, the additional fatty substances that may be used according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.

[0273] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.

[0274] The additional fatty substances that may be used according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. The term “liquidfatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa) and the term “solid fatty substance” means a fatty substance with a melting point of greater than 25 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).

[0275] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).

[0276] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from Ce to Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, nonsilicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters and diesters of sugars and of fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0277] It is recalled that the fatty alcohols and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0278] As regards the Ce-Cie liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0279] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0280] A hydrocarbon oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydro squalene .

[0281] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil,corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0282] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “Flutec® PCI” and “Flutec® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “Foralkyl®” by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by the company 3M.

[0283] The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.

[0284] The composition may also comprise esters and diesters of sugars and of Ce to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and including at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than anionic polysaccharides.

[0285] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

[0286] The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may notably be chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. Ifthey are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0287] The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0288] These esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters.

[0289] More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters of sugars and of fatty acids and notably of mono- or dioleates, mono- or distearates, mono- or dibehenates, mono- or dioleopalmitates, mono- or dilinoleates, mono- or dilinolenates or mono- or dioleostearates of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0290] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0291] According to one embodiment, the additional fatty substances that may be used according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin; better still from triglyceride oils of plant origin.

[0292] The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s’1.

[0293] The solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

[0294] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl OH group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxy alky lenated nor glycerolated.

[0295] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0296] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1 -tetracos anol); ceryl alcohol (or 1 -hexacos anol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0297] Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

[0298] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.

[0299] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non- silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0300] Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

[0301] Mention may further be made of C20 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0302] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis( 1,1,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0303] Use may also be made of the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim.

[0304] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

[0305] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may in particular be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

[0306] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes(cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0307] Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0308] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:

[0309] R1denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from Cu-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0310] R2denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0311] R3denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 a-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 a-hydroxy acid.

[0312] The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2denotes a hydrogen atom and R3denotes a saturated linear C15 group.

[0313] Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0314] Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R3denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0315] As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N- [2-hydroxypalmitoyl] aminooctadecane- 1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1, 3, 4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxy ethyl) -N- (3 -cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) amide and bis(N -hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.

[0316] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0317] Butters may also be used.

[0318] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter” (also referred to as a “pasty fatty substance”) means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, including at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a starting melting temperature above 25 °C and an end melting temperature below 60°C.

[0319] Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin, such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007. al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0320] Mention may more particularly be made of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca lalifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca moll ley ana), phulwara butter (M. bulyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum inurumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma bulyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia temifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.

[0321] Shea butter constitutes an example of a preferred butter.

[0322] In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospermum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% fat, which is extracted and which is generally refined.Preferably, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C8-C40 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0323] More preferentially, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0324] Even more preferentially, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0325] Most preferentially, the additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from sunflower oil, com oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

[0326] According to a particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention, the composition also comprises at least one C8-C40 fatty alcohol, preferably C10-C30 fatty alcohol, more preferentially C12-C24 fatty alcohol, more preferentially C14-C22 fatty alcohol, better still chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, even better still cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0327] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fatty substances different from esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, the total content of additional fatty substance(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, better still yet from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0328] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fatty substances chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or syntheticorigin, C12-C24 solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, the total content of additional fatty substance(s) chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, C12-C24 solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof is in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, better still yet from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0329] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fatty substances chosen from C8-C40 fatty alcohols, the total content of C8-C40 fatty alcohol(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, better still yet from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0330] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional fatty substances chosen from C12-C24 fatty alcohols, the total content of C12-C24 fatty alcohol(s) is in the range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, even better still from 5% to 25% by weight, better still yet from 10% to 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0331] Seguestrants:

[0332] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one sequestrant (or chelating agent).

[0333] The definition of a “sequestrant” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or a mixture of compounds that is / are capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestrant or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a ring including the metal ion).

[0334] A sequestrant (or chelating agent) generally comprises at least two electrondonating atoms which enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.

[0335] In the context of the present invention, the sequestrant(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminopho sphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, salts thereof, and derivatives thereof.The salts are notably alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.

[0336] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N’ -diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N’ -disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N’ -disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N’-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N’-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N’ -diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryliminodiacetic acid (as described in EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic acid-N-carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl- 3 -sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N’-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N’ -diacetic acid, and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509 382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutanetricarboxylic acid such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dis solvine GL38 or 45S from AkzoNobel.

[0337] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on mono- or polypho sphonic acid: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane- 1 -hydroxy -1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-l,l,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane- 1 -hydroxy- 1,1 -dipho sphonic acid (EHDP), ethane- 1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethy lenediaminetetrame thy lenepho sphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane- 1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.

[0338] The following compounds may be mentioned as examples of chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.According to one embodiment, the sequestrant(s) that may be used according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestrants, i.e. sequestrants which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.

[0339] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0340] - inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; these being optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof; - organic phosphorus-based derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, for instance etidronic acid and / or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts thereof, for instance tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.

[0341] Preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms bonded together covalently via at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.

[0342] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).

[0343] The phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferentially, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) is (are) chosen from etidronic acid (also known as 1 -hydroxyethane- 1,1 -dipho sphonic acid) and / or the alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, preferably alkali metal, salts thereof such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.

[0344] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or alkali metal salts thereof, and a mixture of these compounds.Particularly preferably, the phosphorus-based sequestrant(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, and a mixture of these compounds.

[0345] More preferentially, the sequestrant(s) are chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and salts thereof, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and salts thereof, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and salts thereof, etidronic acid and salts thereof, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.

[0346] More preferentially still, the sequestrant(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.

[0347] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts and notably the sodium or potassium salts are preferred.

[0348] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of sequestrant(s) is in the range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0349] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sequestrants chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof, the total content of sequestrant(s) chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, salts thereof (GLDA), and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0350] Alkaline agents

[0351] The composition according to the invention may advantageously also comprise at least one alkaline agent.

[0352] The alkaline agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents. Lor the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” or “alkalizing agent” are used without distinction.The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0353] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine, and mixtures thereof.

[0354] The term “alkanolamine” means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0355] Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different Ci to C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0356] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) is (are) chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, and mixtures thereof.

[0357] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

[0358] The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned under amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1,1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine,metformin, agmatine, n-amidoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l-sulfonic acid.

[0359] The amino acids used as alkaline agent according to the invention are not surfactants.

[0360] Use may be made in particular of guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride as hybrid compounds.

[0361] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) according to the invention are chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, silicates or metasilicates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and even better still ammonium hydroxide.

[0362] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent, the total content of alkaline agent(s) is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10%, better still yet from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0363] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkanolamine, the total content of alkanolamine(s) is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10%, better still yet from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0364] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises ammonium hydroxide, the total content of ammonium hydroxide is in the range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferentially still from 2% to 15% by weight, better still from 3% to 12% by weight, even better still from 3.5% to 10%, better still yet from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.Organic solvents

[0365] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more organic solvents.

[0366] For the purposes of the invention, the organic solvents are different from oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, fatty amine cationic surfactants, cationic polysaccharides, esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol, sequestrants, additional cationic surfactants chosen from those of formula (A) and additional fatty substances as described above.

[0367] As organic solvents, mention may for example be made of a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols that are water-miscible at room temperature (25°C), notably chosen from polyols notably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and d) aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0368] For the purposes of the present invention the term “polyol” refers to an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain, preferably of C2-C30, more preferentially C3-C12, even more preferentially C3-C5, optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by different carbon atoms, this compound possibly being cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.

[0369] According to the invention, the organic solvents do not bear any amine or thiol functions and are in particular different from aminoalkanols such as diaminopropanols.

[0370] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from polyols, preferably from polyols containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or glycerol.

[0371] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more polyols chosen from propylene glycol, propane- 1,3-diol, glycerol and a mixture thereof, better still propylene glycol and glycerol, and even better still glycerol.

[0372] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.05% to 10% byweight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0373] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of polyol(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0374] Water

[0375] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises water. Preferably, the total water content is in the range from 20% to 98% by weight, preferentially from 40% to 95% by weight, more preferentially from 50% to 92% by weight, even more preferentially from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0376] [)H

[0377] Preferably, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 13, more preferentially between 7 and 12.5, more preferentially still between 8 and 12, better still between 9 and 12, and better still yet between 10 and 11.5.

[0378] The pH may be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalizing agents or acidifying agents typically used, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.

[0379] Examples of acidifying agents that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid or orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0380] Among the alkalizing agents, use may be made of the alkaline agents as described above.

[0381] Additives

[0382] The composition according to the invention may also contain additives commonly used in cosmetics, for instance antifoams, thickeners other than the compounds described previously, moisturizers, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, fragrances, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, reducing agents, preserving agents, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.A person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0383] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in thickened form, in particular in the form of a cream, and more particularly in the form of a rich cream.

[0384] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 2000 mPa.s (i.e. 2000 cP), preferentially greater than or equal to 3000 mPa.s (i.e. 3000 cP), more preferentially greater than or equal to 4000 mPa.s (i.e. 4000 cP).

[0385] More preferentially, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range from 2000 mPa.s to 20000 mPa.s, preferentially from 3000 mPa.s to 18000 mPa.s, more preferentially from 3 500 mPa.s to 16000 mPa.s, better still from 3 800 mPa.s to 15 500 mPa.s, even better from 4000 mPa.s to 15400 mPa.s.

[0386] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions according to the invention may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100, at a spin speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

[0387] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic composition, comprises:

[0388] (i) at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof,

[0389] (ii) at least one cationic guar with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s at a concentration of 1% by weight in water, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure,

[0390] (iii) at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C40 carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof,

[0391] (iv) at least one cationic surfactant, preferably chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof,

[0392] (v) optionally at least one ester of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol; preferably among the esters of a C14-C18 carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol, (vi) optionally at least one additional fatty substance different from the esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol,

[0393] (vii) optionally at least one sequestrant, and

[0394] (viii) optionally at least one alkaline agent.

[0395] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic composition, comprises:

[0396] (i) at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof,

[0397] (ii) at least one cationic guar with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s at a concentration of 1% by weight in water, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure,

[0398] (iii) at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C40 carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof,

[0399] (iv) at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain and at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) as defined above,

[0400] (v) at least one ester of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol; preferably among the esters of a Cu-Cis carboxylic acid and of a C14-C18 alcohol,

[0401] (vi) at least one additional fatty substance different from the esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C12-C20 alcohol, chosen from triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, solid C12-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof,

[0402] (vii) optionally at least one sequestrant, and

[0403] (viii) optionally at least one alkaline agent.

[0404] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is the composition (M) comprising at least one oxidation dye and, in addition, at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

[0405] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “chemical oxidizing agent” means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

[0406] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agents) that may be used may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with theiroptional cofactors), among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricases, and 4-electron oxygenases, such as laccases, and mixtures thereof.

[0407] More preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is or are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0408] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (M) according to the invention is in the range from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (M) according to the invention.

[0409] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in the composition (M) according to the invention is in the range from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (M) according to the invention.

[0410] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is the composition (Cl) comprising at least one direct dye, and not comprising an oxidation dye or a chemical oxidizing agent, as described above.

[0411] According to another embodiment C2 of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a chemical oxidizing agent as defined above.

[0412] The process:

[0413] Another subject of the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step (i) of applying a composition according to the invention as defined above to said keratin fibres.

[0414] Preferably, the treatment process according to the invention is a process for dyeing keratin fibres.

[0415] When the treatment process according to the invention is a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, the composition according to the invention applied to the keratin fibres necessarily comprises at least one oxidation dye and optionally at least one chemical oxidizing agent, as described above.According to a first embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for treating, in particular dyeing, keratin fibres comprising at least one step (i) of applying a composition (Cl) according to the invention comprising at least one direct dye, and preferably not comprising an oxidation dye, to said keratin fibres.

[0416] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising at least one step (i) of applying a composition (C2) according to the invention comprising at least one oxidation dye and not comprising a chemical oxidizing agent, as described above, to said keratin fibres.

[0417] According to this second embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention preferably comprises the use of a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent as described above.

[0418] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (O) is in the range from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (O).

[0419] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in the oxidizing composition (O) is in the range from 0.1% to 50%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially still from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (O).

[0420] According to this second embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may be applied to the keratin fibres simultaneously or sequentially with the oxidizing composition (O).

[0421] More preferentially according to this second embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention is an oxidation dyeing process comprising at least: (i) a step of preparing a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of:

[0422] a composition (C2) according to the invention comprising:

[0423] (a) at least one oxidation dye,

[0424] (b) at least one cationic guar with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s at aconcentration of 1% by weight in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, (c) at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C40 carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, and

[0425] not comprising a chemical oxidizing agent; and

[0426] a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as those described previously; and then

[0427] (ii) a step of applying said composition (M) to the keratin fibres.

[0428] This step (i) of preparing a composition (M) is advantageously performed at the time of use, just before applying the composition (M) to the keratin fibres.

[0429] Preferably, according to this second embodiment of the invention, said composition (C2) according to the invention is mixed with the oxidizing composition (O) in a weight ratio (C2): (O) in the range from 1: 3 to 1 : 1; more preferentially from 1 : 2 to 1 : 1.

[0430] The pH of the composition (M) generally ranges from 8 to 13, preferentially from 8.5 to 12, and better still from 9 to 11.5.

[0431] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above, at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 200 mPa.s, more preferentially greater than or equal to 300 mPa.s, even more preferentially greater than or equal to 400 mPa.s, and better still greater than or equal to 410 mPa.s.

[0432] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above may be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100, and at a spin speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being taken after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

[0433] Said oxidizing composition (O) optionally used in the process according to the invention advantageously comprises water.

[0434] The keratin fibre treatment process according to the present invention may optionally comprise additional steps, for example a step comprising a leave-on time after application and / or rinsing and / or drying.

[0435] The composition(s) of the process according to the invention may be applied to dry or wet hair, and preferably to dry hair, and to all types of light or dark, natural or dyed, permanent- waved, bleached or relaxed fibres.The composition(s) of the process according to the invention may be applied to the keratin fibres by any conventional means, in particular using a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush, with the hand or with the fingers.

[0436] The treatment process according to the invention is generally performed at room temperature (between 15 °C and 30°C).

[0437] The process of the invention may notably comprise a step of washing the hair before applying the composition(s) described above. It may also comprise a washing step after applying the composition(s) described above.

[0438] According to one embodiment of the invention, the process consists in applying to the keratin fibres an effective amount of the composition(s) described above, optionally massaging the fibres, optionally leaving the composition to stand on the fibres, and rinsing.

[0439] The leave-on time for which the compositions according to the invention and / or composition (M) are left to stand on the keratin fibres may be between a few seconds and 2 hours, more preferentially between 30 seconds and 1 hour 30 minutes, and even more preferentially between 5 minutes and 1 hour.

[0440] Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises a step of rinsing the keratin fibres with water after the step(s) of applying the compositions according to the invention and / or composition (M), and the optional leave-on time.

[0441] An optional step of drying the keratin fibres may be performed.

[0442] Another subject of the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as defined above, for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0443] Preferably, the composition according to the invention as defined above is used for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

[0444] Device

[0445] A subject of the invention is also a dyeing device or “kit” containing one or more compartments, comprising:

[0446] - at least a first compartment containing a composition according to the invention as defined above; and

[0447] - optionally at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined above.The composition according to the invention and the oxidizing composition (O) are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by suitable application means, which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges.

[0448] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0449] Examples

[0450] Example 1:

[0451] Test compositions:

[0452] Dye compositions Al and Bl, as described in the table below, were prepared. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).[Table 1]

[0453]

[0454] The guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride used for the preparation of composition Al has a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s, measured at a concentration of 1% by weight in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

[0455] Protocol:

[0456] At the time of use, the dye compositions Al and Bl are mixed with 1.5 times their weight of an oxidizing composition O as described in the table below, to obtain, respectively, a composition A i.e. derived from the mixture Al +0) according to the invention and a comparative composition B (i.e. derived from the mixture Bl+O).[Table 2]:

[0457]

[0458] Each of compositions A and B is applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% white hair strands (NW) in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.

[0459] After leaving on for 30 minutes at a temperature of 27°C, the hair is rinsed and dried in an oven (60°C).

[0460] Colorimetric measurements were performed using a Konica Minolta CM 3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system. In this system, L* represents the intensity: the lower the value of L*, the deeper, more powerful and more intense the colouring obtained.

[0461] The results are collated in the following table:

[0462] [Table 3]:

[0463]

[0464] Dye composition A results in more powerful dyeing (lower L* value) than obtained with comparative composition B.Example 2:

[0465] The dye composition A2 according to the invention and the comparative dye compositions B2 and B3 as described in Table 4 below, was prepared. The amounts are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).

[0466] [Table 4]

[0467]

[0468] The guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride used for the preparation of composition A2 has a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s, measured at a concentration of 1% by weight in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

[0469] The guars hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride used for the preparation of compositions B2 and B3, namely Jaguar® Cl 3 S and Jaguar® C17, do not have adynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s, measured at a concentration of l% by weight in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

[0470] Protocol:

[0471] At the time of use, each of the compositions A2, B2 and B3 is mixed with an oxidizing composition O at 20 volumes (i.e. 6% by weight of H2O2) according to a (A or B):O ratio of 1:1.5.

[0472] Each of the mixtures M(A2+o), M(B2+O) and M(B3+o) is then applied to a lock of natural hair containing 90% white hair strands (NW) in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair. After a leave-on time of 30 min on a hotplate at 27°C, each lock of hair is rinsed and dried.

[0473] Evaluation:

[0474] The colorimetric measurements were performed on each of the treated locks using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.

[0475] L* represents the intensity of the hair dyeing, measured on the locks of dyed hair. The lower the L* value, the darker, more powerful, more intense the hair dyeing.

[0476] The results obtained are collated in Table 5 below:

[0477] [Table 5]

[0478]

[0479] The hair dyeing obtained with the mixture MA2 +0 according to the invention exhibits lower L* values than the hair dyeings obtained with the comparative mixtures MB2 +0 or MB3+O.

[0480] The mixture MA2 +0 according to the invention provides a more intense hair dyeing than with the comparative mixtures MB2 +0 or MB3 +0.

Claims

1. CLAIMS1. Composition comprising:(i) at least one dye,(ii) at least one cationic guar with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s, measured at a concentration of 1% by weight in water at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure,(iii) at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C40 carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the dye(s) are chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic guar(s) (ii) with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is in the range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the C6-C40 carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants of the following formula (I):Ri-C(O)O’ M+(I)in which:- the radical Ri represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 8 to 30, even better still from 10 to 30 and better still yet from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; and- M+is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline-earth metal atoms, ammonium groups or amino alcohol groups; better still from alkali metal atoms and alkaline-earth metal atoms, even better still from alkali metal atoms such as sodium.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sulfate anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:- alkyl sulfates, in particular C10-C24 or even C12-C22 alkyl sulfates,- alkyl ether sulfates, notably C10-C24 or even C12-C22 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units,- salts thereof,- and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of anionic surfactant(s) is in the range from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition also comprises at least one cationic surfactant; preferably chosen from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises at least two cationic surfactants; preferably at least one fatty amine cationic surfactant and at least one quaternary ester cationic surfactant.

9. Composition according to Claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the fatty amine cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;more preferentially still from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof;and even better still brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

10. Composition according to any one of Claims 7 to 9, characterized in that the quaternary ester cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (A) below:in which:- Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C40 hydrocarbon group,- R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups,- A and A' represent, independently of each other, a Ci-Ce alkyl group, and- X" represents an anion.

11. Composition according to any one of Claims 7 to 10, characterized in that the total content of cationic surfactant(s) is in the range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferentially still from 0.5% to 7% by weight, and better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one of the following compounds:- at least one ester of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol,- at least one additional fatty substance different from the esters of a C1-C40 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C40 alcohol,- at least one sequestrant,- at least one alkaline agent.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agent.

14. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it comprises at least one oxidation dye and also at least one chemical oxidizing agent; the chemical oxidizing agent(s) being preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof;more preferentially, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof;better still hydrogen peroxide.

15. Process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 14.

16. Process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising, at least:(i) a step of preparing a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of:- a composition comprising:(a) at least one oxidation dye,(b) at least one cationic guar with the INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and having a dynamic viscosity of between 500 and 1 500 mPa.s, measured at a concentration of 1% by weight in water at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure, (c) at least one anionic surfactant chosen from C6-C40 carboxylic fatty acid anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, as defined in any one of Claims 1, 4 or 5,and not comprising a chemical oxidizing agent; and- a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents; and then(ii) a step of applying said composition (M) to the keratin fibres.

17. Use of the composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.