New solid anhydrous glossy and non-transfer composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: - a rosin ester; - a dimer dilinoleate ester; - a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, and - optionally also at least one colorant.

Description

[0001] New glossy, non-transferable, solid, anhydrous composition

[0002] FIELD OF INVENTION

[0003] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to solid shiny, non-transfer anhydrous cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin or lips.

[0004] STATE OF THE ART

[0005] From previous years, we know of keratin-based materials in skincare and / or makeup products that offer shine and staying power, but which tend to leave a colored residue on any surface (skin, clothing, etc.) they come into contact with (these products are said to transfer). In the world of lipsticks in particular, there is a recurring demand from consumers for a very glossy lip product with very long-lasting wear, or even one that transfers very little or not at all upon contact with a surface (a property known as "non-transfer"), and especially for solid lip products in stick or pourable form.

[0006] Solid products, especially in stick form, have the advantage of providing intense color with a longer-lasting hold than glosses, but are neither "transfer-proof" nor as shiny as a gloss; sticks described as "long-lasting" but not "transfer-proof" generally have satin rather than shiny films, and "transfer-proof" sticks are matte and less comfortable, even drying for the lips.

[0007] Thus, to achieve the level of shine desired by consumers, solid products generally require a combination of thick and thin oils. However, oils remain on the surface of the lips and tend to transfer. Conversely, ingredients that prevent transfer dry on the lips and give a matte finish. Consequently, it is very difficult to combine shine with a transfer-proof finish.

[0008] Other options exist for achieving a glossy, transfer-proof finish, but these generally come in the form of products that require two steps to apply (so-called 'double-step' products): a 1 ère A long-lasting, non-transfer, but non-glossy colored layer in contact with the lips, and a second ème an ultra-glossy transparent layer applied over the first ('top coat') which provides shine and is non-sticky, and which can transfer without leaving any trace or coloured residue.

[0009] Similarly for other applications (blush, eyeshadow...), there are no solid anhydrous products (in solid form or poured into a pot / pan) with a glossy and transfer-proof finish.

[0010] We are therefore looking for new solid anhydrous compositions, particularly in stick form or poured into a pot / container, for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials (skin, lips), in a single step, presenting very good shine properties and improved non-transfer properties.

[0011] These properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. Furthermore, these characteristics can be evaluated in comparison to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.

[0012] DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0013] The Applicant has identified a specific combination of ingredients consisting of at least one rosin ester, one dilinoleate dimer ester and a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising a dimethicone fragment, in a solid anhydrous composition possibly further comprising a volatile oil, enabling the production of a glossy film and exhibiting non-transfer properties.

[0014] The composition of the invention has excellent gloss properties and an unprecedented non-transfer result for this type of gloss composition.

[0015] The present invention thus relates to a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

[0016] - a rosin ester;

[0017] - a dilinoleate dimer ester;

[0018] - a phenyl-siliconized, non-volatile oil, and

[0019] - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent.

[0020] By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition intended for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic purposes, which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips.

[0021] By "physiologically acceptable medium" we mean any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0022] The physiologically acceptable medium generally represents 1 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0023] The term "keratinous material" refers to the skin and / or its appendages, and the lips, particularly the skin of the face and / or body and the lips. The keratinous materials according to the invention include, in particular, healthy keratinous materials (from "healthy" subjects), that is, those not exhibiting any disorders or abnormalities indicative of a pathological condition (from "unhealthy" subjects, those suffering from a pathology). The terms "healthy skin" and / or "lips" will be used interchangeably throughout the rest of this description.

[0024] Another object of the invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of the composition according to the invention.

[0025] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0026] A first object of the invention relates to a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

[0027] - a rosin ester;

[0028] - a dilinoleate dimer ester;

[0029] - a phenyl-siliconized, non-volatile oil, and

[0030] - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent.

[0031] In one particular embodiment, the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprises a dimethicone fragment.

[0032] In a particular embodiment, the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising a dimethicone fragment is trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone.

[0033] In one particular embodiment, the rosine ester is hydrogenated glyceryl rosinate.

[0034] In a particular embodiment, the dilinoleate dimer ester is a copolymer of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dilinoleate dimer.

[0035] The term "anhydrous" refers in particular to the fact that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even completely free of water.

[0036] By "solid", we mean a composition exhibiting, at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1 atm = 10 5Pa), a hardness greater than 0.5 N, preferably greater than 1.5 N, said hardness being preferably measured using a texture tester fitted with a hemispherical base of diameter 11.6 mm. The composition may in particular be in the form of a stick or a composition poured into a pot / cup or packaged in a cup.

[0037] The hardness of the compositions of the invention, particularly the sticks, can be measured at 20°C using the so-called "butter wire" method. This method involves cutting a stick of product with a diameter between 8 and 12 mm, preferably cylindrical in shape, transversely with a rigid metal wire of 250 µm diameter, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is expressed in Gram-force (Gf) and can be measured using a texture analyzer such as the TAXT Plus. For a stick of a composition intended for application to the lips, the minimum value obtained is greater than 30 Gf. According to a particular and preferred method, the hardness of the sticks according to the invention will range from 30 to 120 Gf.

[0038] A person skilled in the art will be able to adapt the stick-forming process based on the composition of the invention, taking into account its hardness. In particular, when the hardness is less than 100Gf, the stick-forming process known as "back-fill," which involves pouring and cooling the composition directly into the pack mechanism, will be preferred over a form-forming process that involves pouring and cooling the composition in a mold and then inserting the stick into the mechanism.

[0039] The compositions of the invention have good gloss and non-transfer properties.

[0040] These properties can be evaluated using different methods.

[0041] Brilliance

[0042] The gloss property can, for example, be assessed visually or by measurement with a gloss meter. For a visual assessment, a photograph can be taken of lips made up with the composition of the invention, and the gloss of the deposited film can be visually evaluated. The compositions of the invention will have a glossy to very glossy film.

[0043] Non-transfer

[0044] The non-transfer properties of the compositions of the invention can, for example, be evaluated by kissing the hand, and observing the presence or absence of color transferred onto the support (hand); thus, compositions with good resistance to pressure are sought.

[0045] Rosin ester The composition according to the invention comprises a rosin ester (also called "rosinate").

[0046] Rosin acids (or colophony acids) are acids derived from colophony, which are natural resins obtained from pine trees and certain other plants, primarily conifers. More specifically, colophony can be produced by heating fresh liquid resin to vaporize the volatile liquid terpene components, and the resulting semi-transparent solid residue contains a mixture of various different resin acids, such as abietic acid, pimaric acid, and their respective isomers.

[0047] Examples of rosine esters that can be used in cosmetic compositions according to the invention include hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated esters, such as glyceryl rosinate, in particular hydrogenated glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythrityl rosinate, silicone rosinate, diethylene glycol rosinate, hydrogenated dilinoleyl dimer rosinate, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate, hydrogenated glyceryl dibehenate / rosinate, hydrogenated glyceryl diisostearate / rosinate, trihydrogenated glyceryl rosinate, glycol rosinate, hydrogenated methyl rosinate, methyl rosinate, hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate, and hydrogenated triethylene glycol rosinate.

[0048] In a particular embodiment, the rosine ester is selected from glyceryl rosinate, in particular hydrogenated glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythrityl rosinate, silicone rosinate, methyl rosinate, in particular hydrogenated methyl rosinate, and combinations thereof.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, the rosin ester is glyceryl rosinate. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the rosin ester is hydrogenated glyceryl rosinate.

[0050] Glyceryl rosinate can be fully or partially hydrogenated. Natural rosins contain unsaturated bonds, which can negatively impact the stability of the resulting rosinate after exposure to heat and oxidation. Hydrogenating the rosines makes them more stable against heat and oxidation.

[0051] One can use, for example, the hydrogenated glyceryl rosinate marketed by SAFIC ALCAN under the name FORAL 85-E CG HYDROGENATED ROSINATE.

[0052] In one particular embodiment, rosin ester is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Dilinoleate dimer ester. The composition according to the invention further comprises a dilinoleate dimer ester. By "dilinoleate dimer ester," we mean here a dimer dilinoleic acid ester or a hydrogenated dimer dilinoleic acid ester.

[0054] Dimeric dilinoleic acid refers to a dibasic acid obtained by the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid composed primarily of linoleic acid via an intermolecular polymerization reaction. Hydrogenated dimeric dilinoleic acid can be obtained by the reduction (hydrogenation) of the aforementioned dimeric dilinoleic acid.

[0055] Dilinoleate dimer esters usable within the scope of the invention include, in particular, dilinoleate dimer esters, such as those with the following INCI nomenclature:

[0056] • polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dilinoleate dimer copolymer (such as HAILUCENT marketed by Estenity);

[0057] • bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate or phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (such as PLANDOOL), • dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (such as LUSPLAN marketed by Unipex), • hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate,

[0058] • and their mixtures.

[0059] In a preferred embodiment, the dilinoleate dimer ester is a polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer.

[0060] The polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer can be produced by a condensation reaction between diglycerin, isostearic acid, and hydrogenated dilinoleic acid dimer. One type of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer that can be used in the context of the invention may have an average molecular weight ranging from approximately 4000 to approximately 5000 g / mol.

[0061] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer marketed by ESTENITY under the name HAILUCENT ISDA MB can be used.

[0062] In a particular embodiment, the dilinoleate dimer ester is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Phenylated silicone non-volatile oil

[0064] The composition according to the invention further comprises a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising a dimethicone fragment. By "oil" is meant a liquid fat at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg).

[0065] The term "phenylated silicone oil" according to the invention means an organopolysiloxane substituted by at least one Phenyl group.

[0066] In a particular embodiment, the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil is present in the composition in a content of at least 20%, in particular at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, preferably at least 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] The phenyl silicone oil used in the context of the invention is preferably a non-volatile phenyl silicone oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0068] By "dimethicone fragment" we mean a divalent siloxane group, in which the silicone atom bears two methyl radicals, said group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule.

[0069] Such an oil can be represented by the following formula:

[0070] -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.

[0071] Preferably, said oil does not include a C2-C3 oxide alkene group or a glycerol group.

[0072] Examples of phenylened silicone non-volatile oils containing a dimethicone fragment include oils with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, and mixtures thereof, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone. Examples include diphenyl dimethicone sold under the names KF-54 HV from Shin Etsu and SilShine 150 from Momentive, and Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone marketed under the name Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker Chemie AG.

[0073] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil of formula (I)

[0074]

[0075] in which

[0076] Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3y varies between 1 and 1000, and

[0077] z varies between 1 and 1000.

[0078] In a particular embodiment, the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising a dimethicone fragment is trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone.

[0079] For example, we can use Wacker's Belsils PDM20, PDM100 and PDM1000, and in particular trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, notably sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 and marketed by the Wacker company.

[0080] In a particular embodiment, the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising a dimethicone fragment is present in the composition in a content ranging from 10% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 10% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] In the context of the invention, the anhydrous cosmetic composition preferably comprises less than 5% by weight of phenylated silicone non-volatile oil without dimethicone fragment relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1% by weight, or even does not comprise any phenylated silicone non-volatile oil without dimethicone fragment.

[0082] By "phenylated silicone non-volatile oil without dimethicone fragment", we mean here an organopolysiloxane substituted by at least one Phenyl group and not comprising a divalent siloxane group, in which the silicone atom bears two methyl radicals.

[0083] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising a trimethicone fragment, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1% by weight, or even does not comprise any phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising a trimethicone fragment.

[0084] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, of Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, relative to the total weight of the composition and / or less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, of Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even does not comprise Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone and / or Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate.

[0085] volatile oil

[0086] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one volatile oil. By "volatile oil" is meant an oil which has lost more than 20% by mass of its mass at 15 min, more than 40% by mass of its mass at 30 min and more than 70% by mass of its mass at 60 min, according to the following protocol - 20 mg of the oil to be studied is weighed on a 5 cm x 5 cm PMMA plate using a micropipette and a precision balance.

[0087] - This material is spread with a finger over the entire plate. Then, the plate is placed in a ventilated chamber thermostatically controlled at 25°C and 50% humidity.

[0088] - For each material, the test is performed 3 times. The mass loss during drying is measured after 15 min, 30 min, and 60 min. The mass lost is expressed according to the following calculation:

[0089] % mas.s'f lost 100

[0090]

[0091] with m txcorresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (tismin, taomin or teomin) and m t 0 corresponds to the mass initially applied.

[0092] The volatile oil(s) are chosen in particular from among silicone volatile oils, hydrocarbon volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] According to the invention, "siliconized volatile oil" means a volatile oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0094] Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils and their mixtures.

[0095] The volatile oil can be chosen from among the silicone volatile oils such as dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) with viscosities ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, alkyl trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Examples include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-Heptamethyl-3-(trimethylsilyloxy)trisiloxane (also known as methyl trimethicone), decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, particularly dimethicones with viscosities ranging from 0.5 to 6 cSt, methyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] According to the invention, "volatile hydrocarbon oil" means an oil formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms and which may include at least one oxygen and / or nitrogen atom, and free from Si, F and P atoms.

[0097] According to a particular method, the volatile oil(s) of the composition of the invention are hydrocarbon volatile oils chosen from: Cs-Cl6 branched alkanes,

[0098] linear C9-C14 alkanes,

[0099] esters, possibly hydroxylated, in particular Cs-Ci6 branched esters, ethers,

[0100] dialkoxymethane

[0101] carbonates,

[0102] and their mixtures.

[0103] Examples of Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes include Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®. Examples of C9-C14 linear alkanes include n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and their mixtures.

[0104] The linear volatile alkane may be used alone or preferably a mixture of at least two distinct linear volatile alkanes, differing from each other by a number of carbon n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a number of carbon of 1 or 2.

[0105] More specifically, a suitable linear volatile alkane for the invention can be implemented in the form of an n-undecane / n-tridecane (C11 / C13) mixture, an n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9 / C12) mixture, or an n-dodecane and n-tetradecane (C12 / Cl4) mixture.

[0106] Examples include alkanes with hydrocarbon chains in the following forms:

[0107] C9-C14, C10-C14, C11-C13 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0108] C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0109] n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 respectively,

[0110] and their mixtures.

[0111] Examples of possibly hydroxylated esters include esters preferably comprising between 5 and 12 carbon atoms in total, preferably monoesters, and in particular esters of C2-C6 monoalcohols and C3-C6 monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, comprising between 5 and 11 carbon atoms in total, for example such as isopropyl hexanoate or ethyl lactate.

[0112] As examples of Cs-Ci6 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate can be cited. As examples of ethers, in particular monoethers, ethers with a total of 4 to 10 carbon atoms can be cited, for example such as dipentylether.

[0113] Examples of dialkoxymethane include those with a total of 3 to 11 carbon atoms, such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxymethane, and dibutoxymethane. These compounds are marketed by the company Lambiotte under the names methylal, ethylal, and butylal, respectively.

[0114] Examples of carbonates include those with 3 to 11 carbon atoms in total, such as dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, or dipentyl carbonate.

[0115] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from the group consisting of Cs-Cl6 branched alkanes, C9-Cl4 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably Cg-Cl4 linear alkanes.

[0116] In a particular embodiment, the volatile oil(s) are hydrocarbon volatile oils selected from Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, Cs-Ci6 branched esters, possibly hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, preferably Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably again C9-C14 linear alkanes.

[0117] In a particular embodiment, the volatile oil(s) are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 7 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] Other ingredients

[0119] Gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agent

[0120] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fat-phase gelling and / or structuring agent, distinct from the dilinoleate dimer ester.

[0121] Advantageously, a person skilled in the art can combine several gelling and / or texturizing agents to improve the texture and / or sensory properties of the composition upon application.

[0122] The terms "fat-phase gelling agents" or "lipophilic gelling agents" refer to compounds that modify the rheology of the fat phase by forming a three-dimensional network. These gelling agents can be mineral and / or organic.

[0123] Fat-phase structuring agents that can be used in the context of the invention include, in particular, solid fats or fats comprising a solid fraction at 25°C.

[0124] These structuring agents are notably chosen from fatty esters, fatty alcohols, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] They will generally have a melting point ranging from 45 to 85°C, particularly from 55 to 80°C.

[0126] The melting point generally determines the temperature at which a fat (fatty substance here) changes from a solid (or frozen) state to a liquid (or soft) state.

[0127] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agent chosen from the group consisting of inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Modified clays are a notable example of "inorganic lipophilic gelling agents." Modified clays (also known as organomodified clays) are clays treated with compounds selected from among quaternary and tertiary amines, preferably quaternary amines.

[0129] Clays include natural or synthetic clays selected from bentonites, particularly hectorites and montmorillonites.

[0130] Examples of "organic lipophilic gelling agents" that can be used in the solid composition of the invention include:

[0131] esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), preferably unbranched, such as dextrin palmitate and myristate, and mixtures thereof, in particular marketed under the trade name UNIFILMA marketed by Chiba Flour Milling Co; esters of glycerol and fatty acid(s), in particular C18-C24, especially glycerol behenic acid ester (such as the NOMCORT product from KOBO); Polyglyceryl-10 behenate / eicosadioate (marketed for example under the name NOMCORT HK-P);

[0132] hydroxystearic acid, such as that marketed under the name CASID HSA;

[0133] sorbitan oleate,

[0134] glutamides, such as Octyldodecanol and Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide (AJK OD-2046), from the company Ajinomoto,

[0135] associative polymers derived from castor oil, the isophorone diisocyanate-urethane polymer derived from castor oil,

[0136] olefin(s) / styrene copolymers, alkyl poly(acrylates), gelling agents with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated vegetable oil, marketed for example under the name DERMOFEEL VISCOLID; Castor Oil / IPDI copolymer, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, marketed for example under the name ESTOGEL M; Hydrogenated Castor Oil / Sebacic Acid Copolymer, marketed for example under the name ESTOGEL GREEN; Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated C6-20 Polyolefin (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, marketed for example under the name OILKEMIA 5S CC PALM FREE; Sorbitan olivate, marketed for example under the name OLIVEM 900,

[0137] and their mixtures.

[0138] Certain hydrogenated vegetable oils and possibly modified by isostearic acid, including hydrogenated rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, jojoba, coconut and castor oils, can also be considered as fat-phase gelling agents.

[0139] Examples of "fatty esters" include Behenyl Behenate, Cetyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Behenate / eicosadioate, Jojoba Esters, Stearyl Behenate, Myristyle Myristate, and mixtures thereof. These compounds generally have a melting point ranging from 65 to 75°C.

[0140] Suitable "fatty alcohols" for the invention include, in particular, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. These fatty alcohols generally have a melting point ranging from 55°C to 75°C.

[0141] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 45°C.

[0142] Examples include vegetable waxes such as sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice wax; microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, carnauba wax, beeswax, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 chains such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with a fatty alcohol, maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin copolymers, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis and lanolin wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] The total wax content will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, particularly from 2 to 18% and preferably from 3 to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] The "pasty fats" usable as fat phase structuring agents are defined as fats with reversible liquid / solid phase change, exhibiting in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0145] Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, oligomeric glycerol esters, including diglycerol esters, polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, jojoba esters, olive unsaponifiables, shea unsaponifiables; vegetable butters such as murumuru butter, mango butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, cupuaçu butter; and mixtures thereof.

[0146] The total content of gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agents, including the content of dilinoleate dimer ester, will generally range from 5 to 50% by weight, in particular from 8 to 40% by weight, especially from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] A person skilled in the art will know how to adjust the percentage according to the nature of the gelling and / or structuring agents and the desired hardness of the composition.

[0148] Silicone polymer

[0149] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may further comprise a silicone polymer, in particular a silicone-polyurethane polymer. The presence of a silicone polymer, in particular a silicone-polyurethane polymer, improves the non-transfer properties of the composition.

[0150] The term “silicone-polyurethane polymer” here refers to any polymer comprising organosiloxane motifs and urethane bonds.

[0151] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer that can be used within the framework of the invention is the reaction product of a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, preferably comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, with a diisocyanate compound.

[0152] The diisocyanates that may be suitable within the scope of the invention include, without limitation, toluene diisocyanate; methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, including 2,2'-MDI, 2,4'-MDI and 4,4'-MDI; 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate; isophorone diisocyanate; dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate; xylene diisocyanate; cyclohexane diisocyanate; 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate; p-phenylene diisocyanate; m-phenylene diisocyanate; 4,4'-isopropylidene dicyclohexyl isocyanate; and their equivalents.

[0153] In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate is selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof. In one embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate.

[0154] In another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of isophorone diisocyanate.

[0155] In yet another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate, this embodiment being particularly preferred.

[0156] Thus, according to a particular mechanism, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product

[0157] of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the following formula structure (I)

[0158]

[0159] in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and more preferably still between 10 and 50, with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0160] In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is free or substantially free of polyalkylene glycol subunits, in particular polyethylene glycol (PEG) or polypropylene glycol (PPG).

[0161] By "essentially free of", it is meant that the polymer comprises less than about 1% by weight, preferably less than about 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than about 0.1% by weight of polyalkylene glycol subunits.

[0162] In a particular embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a linear polymer comprising the reaction product of formula (I) with a diisocyanate selected from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4' diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and their combinations.

[0163] Such a silicone-polyurethane polymer is available, for example, from Siltech Corporation as a premix in isododecane, under the trade name SILMER UR 5050 (45% polymer dry matter in isododecane). According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used as a premix in hemisqualane.

[0164] According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a C9-C16 linear alkane or a mixture of C9-C16 linear alkanes, preferably a mixture of n-nonane and n-dodecane (C9-C12, VEGELIGHT SILK) or a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane (C11-C13, CETIOL ULTIMATE).

[0165] According to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention may be present in the solid composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight of active polymer material (dry matter), preferably from 2 to 18% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight of active polymer material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] Coloring agent

[0167] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one coloring material, in particular at least one coloring material for coloring keratinous materials, in particular skin and / or lips, especially lips.

[0168] For the purposes of this invention, "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0169] A coloring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, optical effect materials such as mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0170] In a particular manner, the colouring material(s) are chosen in particular from among pigments, mother-of-pearl, liposoluble dyes, and their mixtures.

[0171] These coloring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic processing agent. The lipophilic processing agent is chosen, in particular, from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, especially N-acylated amino acids or their salts. These coloring materials, particularly pigments, are generally pre-dispersed in a dispersing agent before being incorporated into the composition.

[0172] The term "pigments" refers to white or colored particles, mineral (inorganic) or organic, insoluble in aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0173] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue.

[0174] Examples of lip compositions include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

[0175] Among the "organic pigments", we can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no. 6; D & C orange no. 4; D & C orange no. 5; D & C Red no. 27; D & C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36;; D & C Red no. 33; D & C orange no. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; ; D & C Red no. 30; D & C red no. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and lacquers.

[0176] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least pigments selected from iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] In particular, the colouring material(s), when present in the composition of the invention, are present in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0178] According to a particular method, the total content of coloring materials will range from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

[0179] Other cosmetic ingredients

[0180] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic ingredient selected from antioxidants, perfumes, vitamins, thickening agents, emollients, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, lifting agents, tightening agents, plumping agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0181] The additional ingredients advantageously used in the composition according to the invention can be present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 50%, preferably from 0.001% to 10% by weight (of raw material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] Galenic

[0183] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a solid anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a foundation stick, an eyeshadow, a blush or cheek powder, a concealer, a lip balm or a lipstick stick.

[0184] cosmetic process

[0185] Another object of the invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0186] When applied to the skin or lips, the compositions of the invention form a glossy, non-transfer film.

[0187] The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Percentages are expressed as a percentage of the weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

[0188] EXAMPLES

[0189] Example 1: Evaluation of gloss and non-transfer

[0190] The gloss and non-transfer properties of the compositions described in the examples below were evaluated according to the following protocols.

[0191] Glossy appearance

[0192] The brilliance of the compositions was evaluated according to the following protocol.

[0193] It consists of applying three layers of the product to each lip, and after 10 minutes, visually assessing the shine of the product on the lips. Ratings are assigned based on their level of shine, with categories determined according to the following terms:

[0194] High gloss: very bright,

[0195] Gloss +: satin,

[0196] KO Brilliance: no shine.

[0197] Non-transfer aspect

[0198] In parallel, the compositions were also evaluated for non-transfer properties according to the following protocol.

[0199] It consists of applying 3 layers of composition to each lip, and, after 15 minutes, placing the lips on the skin during a kiss.

[0200] The transfer of each composition is evaluated by visual observation of the residual deposit on the glass slide and ratings are assigned to them.

[0201] No transfer: no transfer

[0202] Low transfer: light transfer

[0203] Transfer: important transfer

[0204] According to the invention, compositions are sought that provide improved non-transfer properties.

[0205] Example 2: Solid lipstick for the lips according to the invention

[0206] A solid lipstick comprising a rosin ester (GLYCERYL HYDROGENATED ROSI NATE), a dilinoleate dimer ester (POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE / DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER) and a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising a dimethicone fragment (TRIMETHYLSILOXYPHENYL DIMETHICONE) has been formulated (composition 1 -invention).

[0207] Percentages are expressed as a percentage of raw material weight relative to the final composition.

[0208] [Table 1]

[0209]

[0210]

[0211] The composition is prepared according to the following procedure:

[0212] Mix the non-volatile materials under vigorous stirring to allow good dispersion of the coloring materials when heated between 90 and 98°C;

[0213] - Add the volatile materials and cover well, then after 10 minutes and good homogenization, pour in the products.

[0214] When applied to the lips, the composition produces a makeup finish, evaluated according to the protocol of example 1, as being very glossy and non-transferable. These results show that the presence of a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, in particular a phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising a dimethicone fragment (TRIMETHYLSILOXYPHENYL DIMETHICONE), combined with a rosin ester (GLYCERYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE and / or METHYL HYDROGENATED ROSINATE) and a dilinoleate dimer ester (POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE / DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER), allows for good gloss and non-transfer properties in the lip products obtained.

Claims

DEMANDS 1. Solid anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: - a rosin ester; - a dilinoleate dimer ester; - a phenylated silicone-based non-volatile oil; and - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil is present in the composition in a content of at least 20%, in particular at least 25%, preferably at least 30%, preferably at least 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprises a dimethicone fragment.

4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising a dimethicone fragment is trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone.

5. Composition according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the phenylated silicone non-volatile oil comprising a dimethicone fragment is present in the composition in a content ranging from 10% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 10% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the rosin ester is hydrogenated glyceryl rosinate.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the rosin ester is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the dilinoleate dimer ester is a copolymer of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dilinoleate dimer.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the dilinoleate dimer ester is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it further comprises at least one volatile oil.

11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are hydrocarbon volatile oils selected from Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, Cs-Ci6 branched esters, optionally hydroxylated esters, ethers, dialkoxymethane, carbonates, and mixtures thereof, preferably Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, C9-C14 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, preferably again C9-C14 linear alkanes.

12. Composition according to claim 10 or 11, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 7 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it is a solid anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular a foundation stick, an eyeshadow, a blush or cheek powder, a concealer, a lip balm or a lipstick stick.

14. A cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1

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