Method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition intended to impart at least one visual effect on a part of the human body

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition intended to impart at least one visual effect on a part of the human body, from a range of variations of the at least one visual effect, which method comprises, in particular, an operation that involves mixing ingredients, in which the quantities of said ingredients are adjusted according to two ratios: - a first "range" ratio defined between a predetermined quantity of a first matrix, on the one hand, and a predetermined quantity of the pair comprised of an optical-effect solution and a third matrix, on the other hand, - a second "variation" ratio, defined between a quantity of said at least one optical-effect solution and a quantity of said third matrix.

Description

[0001] Description

[0002] A process for manufacturing a cosmetic composition intended to confer at least a visual effect on a part of the human body.

[0003] Technical field of the invention

[0004] The present invention relates to the technical field of cosmetic compositions intended to confer at least one visual effect on a part of the human body.

[0005] It relates in particular to a process for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition, intended to confer at least one visual effect on a part of the human body, among a series of variations of said at least one visual effect.

[0006] State of the art

[0007] The manufacture of a coloured cosmetic composition, for example a nail polish, traditionally relies on the use of colour solutions to colour a colour base.

[0008] To obtain a series of variations of this color, at least one colorant solution and the base color are diluted together according to the desired effect. In other words, the base color is colored by the addition, and therefore the dilution, of a combination of colorant solutions.

[0009] However, this approach has some limitations that affect the quality and properties of the finished products, particularly at the time of application and durability on the nail.

[0010] This phenomenon can be explained by several factors.

[0011] On the one hand, the formulas of color bases and coloring solutions are significantly different (apart from the pigments). This difference then leads to significant variations in the composition of the finished product and, consequently, the properties of the films, in a series of variations for a visual effect.

[0012] On the other hand, color solutions generally exhibit different color intensities before being mixed with the color base. This variation can also lead to uneven dilution and differences in the properties of the resulting films, within a range of variations for a given visual effect.

[0013] These differences in formulation and dilution directly affect the performance of cosmetic compositions, including their homogeneity, texture, and resistance over time.

[0014] This problem is generally encountered in all cosmetic compositions intended to provide a series of variations of at least one visual effect.

[0015] Thus, existing processes do not allow for optimal consistency of the properties of cosmetic compositions in a series of variations of a visual effect, which constitutes an important limitation to guarantee quality for manufacturers and consumers.

[0016] Presentation of the invention

[0017] In order to remedy the aforementioned drawback of the prior art, the present invention proposes a method for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition, intended to confer at least one visual effect on a part of the human body, from among a series of variations of said at least one visual effect.

[0018] The process includes the following steps:

[0019] a) an operation to supply a composition of ingredients comprising:

[0020] - a first matrix,

[0021] - at least one optical effect solution comprising a second matrix containing at least one optical effect agent intended to confer said series of variations of said at least one visual effect, and

[0022] - a third matrix;

[0023] b) an operation of mixing said ingredients, in one or more stages, in which the quantities of said ingredients are adjusted according to two ratios:

[0024] - a first "series" ratio defined between, on the one hand, a predetermined quantity of said first matrix and, on the other hand, a predetermined quantity of the pair composed of said optical effect solution and said third matrix,

[0025] said first ratio being adjusted according to said series of declinations sought, and - a second "declination" ratio, defined between a quantity of said at least one optical effect solution and a quantity of said third matrix,

[0026] said second ratio being adjusted according to said variation of said at least one visual effect sought from said series of variations.

[0027] The present invention proposes a technical solution to overcome the limitations of current manufacturing processes for cosmetic compositions with visual effects, particularly for nail polishes.

[0028] These limitations include significant variations in the properties of cosmetic compositions (homogeneity, texture, resistance for example) in a series of variations of at least one effect, due to formulation differences between the color base and the coloring solutions.

[0029] Thanks to the harmonization of ingredients, the invention allows for homogeneous dilution of optical effect solutions across the entire range of variations. Thus, the final formulas (excluding pigments) of the cosmetic compositions are identical, or at least substantially identical, leading to uniform and long-lasting properties.

[0030] For example, and without being limiting, in the case of nail polish, the main advantages of the invention would be the following: - uniformity of durability on the nail: Differences in wear between variations of an effect are minimized, guaranteeing better consistency of wear in a range of developed effects;

[0031] - flexibility in modifying the color base: unlike processes where pigments are individually dispersed in the same color base, modifying the base is possible, easier and faster without modifying all the color solutions;

[0032] - improved pigment stability: pigment stability is maintained homogeneously across all variations of a visual effect;

[0033] - consistency of texture and application: variations of a visual effect have a uniform texture, facilitating application and user comfort for consumers;

[0034] - Consistency of drying (solvent-based varnish): the drying time remains constant between variations of a visual effect, guaranteeing better product reliability;

[0035] - uniformity of polymerizable functions (photopolymerizable varnishes): in the case of LIV polymerization varnishes, the polymerization properties are homogeneous, ensuring identical performance for all variations of a visual effect.

[0036] The present invention thus proposes an innovative approach aimed at reducing formula variations in a series of declensions of said at least one visual effect and at improving the consistency of the properties of cosmetic compositions in this series.

[0037] Other non-limiting and advantageous features of the process according to the invention, taken individually or in all technically possible combinations, are as follows:

[0038] - said cosmetic composition, for example in the form of a nail polish, is suitable for application to the nails to confer at least a visual effect on said nails;

[0039] - said third matrix is ​​identical, or at least similar, to said second matrix; - said second matrix and said third matrix are chosen from organic liquids comprising at least one component chosen from at least one non-reactive solvent, at least one compound capable of crosslinking in the presence of a photoinitiator and light, at least one film-forming agent;

[0040] - said at least a second matrix and said third matrix are devoid of compounds capable of intentionally initiating polymerization;

[0041] - said supply operation further comprises at least one additive, and wherein said mixing operation comprises a predetermined quantity of said at least one additive; preferably, at least one of the ingredients contains at least one additive suitable for intentionally initiating polymerization, namely, for example, at least one polymerizable component and at least one photoinitiator; preferably again, said at least one additive is mixed into said first matrix prior to said mixing operation, or into said cosmetic composition subsequent to said mixing operation;

[0042] - the pair consisting of said at least one optical effect solution and said third matrix represents 5 to 70% by volume of the cosmetic composition, and in which the remaining volume is constituted by said first matrix, and where appropriate by said at least one additive.

[0043] The present invention further relates to a composition of ingredients, intended to be mixed for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition by implementing the process according to the invention, comprising:

[0044] - a first matrix,

[0045] - at least one optical effect solution comprising a second matrix containing at least one optical effect agent intended to confer said series of variations of said at least one visual effect, and

[0046] - a third matrix,

[0047] which ingredients are suitable to be mixed in quantities adjusted according to two ratios:

[0048] - a first "series" ratio defined between, on the one hand, a predetermined quantity of said first matrix and, on the other hand, a predetermined quantity of the pair composed of said optical effect solution and said third matrix,

[0049] said first ratio being adjusted according to said series of declinations sought, and - a second "declination" ratio, defined between a quantity of said at least one optical effect solution and a quantity of said third matrix,

[0050] said second ratio being adjusted according to said variation of said at least one visual effect sought from said series of variations.

[0051] Preferably, said third matrix is ​​identical, or at least similar, to said second matrix.

[0052] Of course, the different features, variants and embodiments of the invention can be combined with each other in various ways as long as they are not incompatible or mutually exclusive.

[0053] Detailed description of the invention

[0054] Furthermore, various other features of the invention become apparent from the attached description. The present invention thus relates to a method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition intended to produce at least one visual effect on a part of the human body.

[0055] By "cosmetic composition" we advantageously mean a chemical or physico-chemical formulation intended to be applied to a part of the human body, in this case with the aim of modifying the appearance of that part of the body. This cosmetic composition is intended to be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body (for example epidermis, hair and scalp systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the oral mucosa.

[0056] The cosmetic composition according to the invention aims to obtain at least one visual effect on a part of the human body, namely for example the nails, including nail polishes, top coats, base coats and specific formulations such as glitter, iridescent, fluorescent, phosphorescent, reflective, photochromic, thermochromic, magnetochromic, piezochromic, electrochromic, halochromic, hydrochromic, or retro-diffusing (e.g., matte, crackled, grained, fibrous texture, etc.) nail polishes.

[0057] The term "nail" encompasses both natural and artificial nails. "Artificial nails" refers to synthetic structures designed to mimic or extend natural nails. They are made from materials such as gel, acrylic resin, or plastic, and are applied or glued onto natural nails for aesthetic or corrective purposes.

[0058] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can also be designed to achieve at least one visual effect on another part of the human body, for example:

[0059] - lips, including lipsticks, colored glosses, lip stains;

[0060] - the epidermis, including for example foundations, illuminators (or highlighters), blushes, self-tanning creams;

[0061] - hair and scalp systems, including for example hair dyes, shine sprays, mascaras, coloring powders.

[0062] More specifically, the present invention provides a method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition intended to confer at least one visual effect among a series of variations of said at least one visual effect.

[0063] To this end, the process according to the invention comprises the following successive operations: a) an operation of supplying an ingredient composition comprising a first matrix, at least one optical effect solution and a third matrix, intended to be mixed to obtain a cosmetic composition capable of conferring at least one visual effect on a part of the human body, and

[0064] Then

[0065] b) an operation of mixing these particular ingredients, according to particular quantities and ratios, which makes it possible to obtain at least one desired visual effect in a series of variations of said at least one visual effect, without altering the properties of the cosmetic composition.

[0066] Visual effect: By "cosmetic composition intended to confer at least one visual effect", we advantageously mean a chemical or physico-chemical formulation applied to a visible part of the human body (for example, skin, nails, hair, lips, etc.) to obtain at least one visual effect intended to modify or beautify its appearance.

[0067] By "visual effect" we advantageously mean a perceptible change in the visual appearance of a part of the human body, obtained by the application of the cosmetic composition.

[0068] The visual effect encompasses visual effects that may require at least one specific external stimulus in order to reveal them (e.g. exposure to LIV, heat, a magnetic field, an electric current, pressure, a change in pH, etc.).

[0069] This visual effect aims to enhance, personalize, or alter aesthetic appearance in a harmonious and controlled manner. In other words, it aims to achieve a cosmetic attribute on a part of the human body.

[0070] For example, the main examples of visual effects are as follows:

[0071] - color (for example, tint on the targeted surface, including red, blue, green, etc.); - brightness, advantageously in the form of a visual effect related to the level of clarity or brightness of a surface, ranging from a bright and glossy appearance to a matte and discreet finish;

[0072] - the visual texture, advantageously simulating various textures such as smooth, grainy, metallic or velvety;

[0073] - specific optical effects, such as:

[0074] -- Iridescence: variations in color depending on the angle of observation,

[0075] -- pearly: pearly effect;

[0076] -- metallic,

[0077] -- fluorescence,

[0078] -- phosphorescence,

[0079] or any other visual effect that may require at least one particular external stimulus to reveal them (for example, exposure to LIV, heat, a magnetic field, an electric current, pressure, a pH variation, etc.).

[0080] The process according to the invention allows the manufacture of a cosmetic composition comprising a single visual effect or a combination of at least two of said different visual effects.

[0081] By "series of variations of said at least one visual effect" is meant a controlled variation (or variation) of said at least one visual effect applied to a part of the human body, such as hue, intensity, brightness, or variations of the specific optical effects mentioned above.

[0082] This concept encompasses a diversity of visual renderings, creating effects or variations within a defined framework (referred to as a "series" or "range"), while ensuring aesthetic and functional consistency within this series of variations. For example, the main examples of series of variations for a visual effect are as follows:

[0083] - color: variation of color within a series of basic colors;

[0084] - nuance: variations within the same base color;

[0085] - intensity: modulation of the saturation or depth of a color, offering more or less pronounced tones;

[0086] - brightness and shine: adjustment of clarity or level of brightness, ranging from a bright and luminous effect to a more discreet and matte finish;

[0087] - transparency and opacity: control of the level of coverage, ranging from a veiled effect to total opacity;

[0088] - a series of variations for at least one specific optical effect:

[0089] -- iridescence: variations according to the color transitions observable depending on the viewing angle;

[0090] -- pearly and glittery: variations in the fineness and intensity of the pearly effect, ranging from a subtle and matte sheen to a bright and sparkling pearl effect;

[0091] -- fluorescence: instantaneous re-emission of light more or less spectrally shifted (for example optical brighteners, variations based on the intensity of bluish reflections depending on the intensity of the UV / UV-vis stimulus);

[0092] -- phosphorescence: re-emission of light more or less shifted spectrally and in time.

[0093] As further developed, this cosmetic composition acts primarily through optical mechanisms related to its ingredients (with or without external stimulus), without altering the structure or biological functions of the tissues to which it is applied.

[0094] Supply operation

[0095] The process according to the invention therefore relies on a combination of at least three ingredients:

[0096] - a first matrix, also called a "color base" (CB or color base),

[0097] - at least one optical effect solution, also called a "color solution" (CS or color solution), comprising a second matrix containing at least one optical effect agent intended to confer said series of variations of said at least one visual effect, and

[0098] - a third matrix, also called "color base solution" (CSB or color base solution).

[0099] In general, the ingredients used in the manufacture of the cosmetic composition are advantageously chosen from among cosmetically acceptable ingredients.

[0100] The first matrix advantageously forms a color base.

[0101] Preferably, this first matrix is ​​formulated to constitute the main support of the cosmetic composition, intended to receive in particular the optical effect solution. It advantageously plays a structuring role in the composition, guaranteeing the stability, homogeneity and durability of the visual effect.

[0102] Preferably, this first matrix contains the following ingredient families, taking into account the drying technology:

[0103] - for a solvent-based varnish: at least one film-forming agent ("film former") dissolved in a solvent;

[0104] - for a UV-cured varnish: at least one compound capable of crosslinking in the presence of a photoinitiator and light.

[0105] Furthermore, as mentioned above, said at least one optical effect solution comprises a second matrix containing at least one optical effect agent intended to confer said series of variations of said at least one visual effect.

[0106] Preferably, the second matrix is ​​formulated to serve as a support for at least one optical effect agent. In particular, it must demonstrate an ability to incorporate the optical effect agent, even when the latter is at a high concentration (for example, at least 60%).

[0107] The said at least one optical effect agent is chosen according to the said at least one visual effect sought.

[0108] The term "optical effect agents" refers advantageously to components or additives incorporated into a cosmetic composition to modify or enhance the visual appearance of a part of the human body. These agents act by interacting with light (e.g., reflection, refraction, diffraction, absorption) to produce various aesthetic effects such as perceived colors, brightness, or textures.

[0109] The composition according to the invention may include, in a particulate phase, various optical effect agents such as pigments, dyes, pearlescent pigments, and / or fillers, commonly used in cosmetic formulations. The optical effect agents may also be selected from other materials known to those skilled in the art (photochromic, thermochromic, etc.).

[0110] These agents are specifically chosen to modify or enhance the visual appearance of the composition and to confer various and desirable aesthetic properties.

[0111] By "pigments" or "colorants" we advantageously mean particles, of any shape, white or colored, of mineral or organic origin, insoluble or soluble in the receiving medium, intended to color the composition.

[0112] Pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. Examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc oxides, chromium oxides, various iron oxides (black, yellow or red), ultramarine blue, iron ferrocyanide, manganese violet, and others.

[0113] Among the organic pigments, we can mention in particular Red 6, Red 7, Red 30, Red 34, Yellow 5, Blue 1, Red 36, Yellow, Red 40 and more generally insoluble pigments of type D & C. By "mother-of-pearl" or "glitter", we mean particles, natural or synthetic, or biodegradable, providing a pearly, metallic and luminous effect.

[0114] Examples of mother-of-pearl include natural mother-of-pearl, mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride, as well as colored titanium mica.

[0115] The term "fillers" refers to colorless or white particles, of mineral or synthetic origin, lamellar or non-lamellar, that add body, texture, or rigidity to the composition. These fillers can also improve properties such as the matte finish, softness, or evenness of the makeup.

[0116] Thus, the combination of these optically effective agents gives the cosmetic composition a wide variety of visual and aesthetic properties, while ensuring optimal homogeneity and quality.

[0117] Preferably, the third matrix is ​​also formulated to complement the second matrix supporting at least one optical effect agent.

[0118] According to a preferred embodiment, the third matrix is ​​identical, or at least similar, to the second matrix.

[0119] In other words, the third matrix is ​​advantageously identical to the optical effect solution, while being devoid of said at least one optical effect agent.

[0120] In one variant, the third matrix may contain at least one optical effect agent. Preferably, the same optical effect agent may be distributed across all three matrices to ensure a fixed final quantity, regardless of variations in proportion between the different matrices.

[0121] By "similar," we advantageously mean that the composition of the third matrix is ​​substantially (or approximately) identical to that of the second matrix (itself adapted according to the desired visual effect), with limited and controlled variations, in order to guarantee functional and aesthetic consistency for the entire series of variations of said at least one visual effect.

[0122] This similarity can be defined quantitatively based on criteria such as the percentage composition of key components, as well as identical or equivalent physicochemical properties.

[0123] For example, "similar" means that:

[0124] - in the case of a solvent-based varnish, both matrices contain at least one film-forming agent allowing the formation of a homogeneous film;

[0125] - in the case of a photopolymerizable varnish, the two matrices include at least one compound capable of crosslinking under the effect of a photoinitiator and a light source.

[0126] More specifically, in order to ensure the functionalities expected by the implementation of the invention, the proportions of the components of the third matrix may differ, in a limited way, from the average of the different second matrices for the series of variations of said at least one visual effect (corresponding to the assembly of the three matrices).

[0127] In other words, the proportions of the components of the third matrix may exhibit limited variations compared to those of the second matrix, taking as a reference the average of the different second matrices used in the series of variations of said at least one visual effect. The assembly of the three matrices (first, second, and third) should advantageously be designed so as to maintain sufficient harmony of composition and / or properties for the compositions obtained within the series.

[0128] Indeed, for example, the assembly of the three matrices must allow for comparable thermomechanical film properties after drying and / or crosslinking. More generally, the assembly of the three matrices must allow for comparable thermomechanical film properties after drying and / or crosslinking, guaranteeing consistency in the texture, durability, and application of the cosmetic composition, regardless of the specific visual effect.

[0129] The term "comparable thermomechanical properties of films" between different assemblies means absolute differences measured by tensile tests of the films of less than 20% of Young's modulus, or of the yield strength, or of the elongation at the yield strength, or of the elongation at break, or of the stress at break, or of the toughness modulus.

[0130] The term "comparable thermomechanical properties of films" between different assemblies also refers to absolute differences measured by Persoz hardness tests of less than 20%.

[0131] The assembly of the three matrices should allow us to obtain comparable liquid properties.

[0132] The term "comparable liquid properties" between different assemblies refers to absolute differences measured by viscosity tests of less than 20%, of the viscosity broken at 60 RPM, or of the viscosity ratio between 6 and 60 RPM.

[0133] The accumulation of these controlled differences ensures that the second matrix and the third matrix have a substantially similar composition, so that their combination does not significantly alter the final properties resulting from the assembly of the three matrices.

[0134] In other words, after the assembly of the second matrix and the third matrix, the variation of each individual component remains contained within a predefined absolute margin, for example 20% in weight or volume, or even 10%, and preferably 5%.

[0135] This limit can be adjusted upwards or downwards depending on the specific impact of each material on the final properties. Indeed, if a component strongly influences the characteristics of the mixture for a small variation in weight or volume, the margin is reduced accordingly in order to preserve the homogeneity and stability of the composition.

[0136] In general, the second and third matrices are advantageously chosen from organic liquids comprising at least one component selected from:

[0137] - at least one non-reactive solvent,

[0138] - at least one compound capable of crosslinking in the presence of a photoinitiator and light, - at least one film-forming agent.

[0139] Preferably, said at least one non-reactive solvent allows the polymeric substances it contains to be solubilized or diluted.

[0140] Said at least one non-reactive solvent is advantageously chosen from organic solvent media, which may include one or more solvents chosen from short-chain esters having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, butyl acetate, isopentyl acetate, methoxypropyl acetate, amyl and isoamyl acetate, butyl lactate, ketones liquid at room temperature, alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, diacetone alcohol, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbons, saturated, such as alkanes, or unsaturated, liquid at room temperature, aromatic hydrocarbons, such as toluene or xylene, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] Preferably, the organic solvent medium comprises ethyl acetate and / or butyl acetate and / or at least one alcohol selected from ethanol, isopropanol and butanol.

[0142] According to a second embodiment of the invention, said at least one non-reactive solvent is chosen from aqueous solvent media.

[0143] A "compound capable of crosslinking in the presence of a photoinitiator and light" is a chemical substance that polymerizes under the effect of a reaction triggered by a photoinitiator when exposed to a light source, generally in the UV or visible spectrum. This process, known as photopolymerization, transforms a liquid or semi-liquid composition into a solid structure.

[0144] Preferably, a compound capable of crosslinking in the presence of a photoinitiator has the following characteristics:

[0145] - polymerizable functions: the compound contains at least one reactive chemical group (for example, an ethylenic group, acrylates, methacrylates, aliphatic epoxy, aliphatic cyclo epoxy, thiol, alkyne);

[0146] - compatibility with the priming system: capable of polymerizing with one or more active propagation centers (e.g., radical, cation, anion, etc.) generated from the priming system(s) exposed to suitable stimuli;

[0147] - The compound can be used in various formulations, whether in the form of a monomer, oligomer, or polymer. The composition may include one or more monomers, oligomers, or polymers. Preferably, the crosslinking compound comprises at least one acrylate or methacrylate function, such as urethane-(meth)acrylate, polyester-(meth)acrylate, glycol-(meth)acrylate, or methacrylate oligomers, or monomers such as hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA), ethylene glycol diacrylate (EGDA), or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).

[0148] By "initiation system" we mean one or more compounds capable of intentionally triggering polymerization of polymerizable functions at the desired time or with a delay, most often with the help of a suitable stimulus (light, heat, humidity, etc.).

[0149] A "film-forming agent" is defined as a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a continuous and homogeneous film when applied to a surface, generally after the solvents have evaporated or the composition has dried. This film imparts specific properties.

[0150] Said less a film-forming agent which is preferably a cellulosic film-forming agent, selected from nitrocellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, cellulose acetobutyrate and / or cellulose acetopropionate.

[0151] According to one embodiment, said at least a second matrix and said third matrix are devoid of compounds capable of intentionally initiating polymerization.

[0152] In other words, said at least one second matrix and said third matrix do not contain any component whose function is to trigger or promote a chemical polymerization process, advantageously whether under the effect of light, heat, or a chemical catalyst.

[0153] Preferably, said at least a second matrix and said third matrix are then devoid of a complete, or partial, initiating system intentionally allowing polymerization of a matrix or a combination of matrices.

[0154] Matrices devoid of compounds capable of intentionally initiating polymerization ensure optimal stability, increased compatibility with other components of the formulation, and safe use for applications where polymerization is not desired.

[0155] According to yet another embodiment, the said supply operation further includes at least one additive.

[0156] This at least one additive is advantageously chosen from among those commonly used in cosmetic formulations. These additives, known to those skilled in the art, can be incorporated into the cosmetic composition to improve its properties.

[0157] These additives may include, but are not limited to, the following compounds: coalescing agents, thickeners, preservatives, perfumes, oils, waxes, surfactants, antioxidants, free radical scavengers, spreading agents, wetting agents, dispersing agents, antifoaming agents, neutralizers, stabilizers, resins.

[0158] A resin is chosen for example from polyvinyl butyral resins, shellac resins, elemi resins, alkyd resins, polyester resins; epoxytosylamide resins; epoxy resins; acrylate resins; styrene-acrylate resins; polyurethane resins; sucrose benzoate; tosylamide / formaldehyde resins; toluene sulfonamide / formaldehyde resins; modified or unmodified alkyd resins; ketone resins, or polymers and / or copolymers of these different resins.

[0159] Additives also advantageously include active ingredients such as essential oils, UV or solar filters, moisturizing agents, vitamins, proteins, ceramides, and plant extracts.

[0160] These additives can be used alone or in combination, depending on the specific needs of the formulation.

[0161] According to a preferred embodiment, at least one of the ingredients, preferably the first matrix, contains at least one additive suitable for intentionally initiating a polymerization (also called an initiating system).

[0162] Where applicable, said at least one additive consists for example of at least one polymerizable component and at least one photoinitiator agent.

[0163] In other words, an additive introduced into the composition may include: - a component capable of polymerizing, that is, of forming a three-dimensional network under the effect of a chemical reaction, and

[0164] - a photoinitiator agent that initiates this reaction when exposed to a light source (e.g., UV or LED).

[0165] Mixing operation

[0166] For the implementation of the invention, during the operation of mixing said ingredients, in one or more steps, the quantities of said ingredients are adjusted according to two ratios: a first ratio called "series" and a second ratio called "declination".

[0167] The first "series" ratio is defined as the ratio between, on the one hand, a predetermined quantity of the first matrix and, on the other hand, a predetermined quantity of the pair composed of the optical effect solution and the third matrix. This first ratio is then adjusted according to the desired series of declinations.

[0168] By "predetermined quantity" is advantageously understood a fixed or pre-defined measure for the respective components, preferably expressed as a mass percentage or a volume percentage relative to the total quantity.

[0169] This "predetermined" quantity is established so as to remain constant within the series of variations of said at least one visual effect, in order to guarantee functional and aesthetic consistency between the different products in the series. In other words, in a series of variations of said at least one visual effect, the quantity of the first matrix, on the one hand, and the quantity of the pair comprising a quantity of said at least one optical effect solution and a quantity of said third matrix, on the other hand, remain constant respectively.

[0170] These quantities are fixed in such a way as to guarantee a stable proportion in all variations of the series.

[0171] In other words, the first ratio is constant for a series of variations of at least one visual effect.

[0172] According to a preferred embodiment, the pair consisting of said at least one optical effect solution and said third matrix represents from 5 to 70% by volume of the cosmetic composition.

[0173] Preferably, and without being exhaustive, this pair represents 30 to 70% of the volume of the cosmetic composition.

[0174] In this context, the remaining volume is advantageously constituted by the said first matrix, and where appropriate by the said at least one additive.

[0175] The first matrix thus advantageously represents 30% to 70% of the volume of the cosmetic composition.

[0176] According to yet another definition, the first "series" ratio is for example from 0.5 to 1.5 (in other words from 1:2 to 1:0.5).

[0177] Furthermore, the second ratio, "declination," corresponds to the ratio between a quantity of at least one optical effect solution and a quantity of the third matrix. This second ratio is adjusted according to the specific declination of the desired at least one visual effect, within the series of declinations.

[0178] In this second ratio, by "quantity" we advantageously mean a measure for the respective ingredients, preferably expressed as a mass percentage or a volume percentage relative to the total quantity.

[0179] In other words, for a first predetermined ratio, the second ratio is adjusted according to a value adapted to each variation sought in a series of variations.

[0180] For example, this second "declination" ratio is advantageously intended to be adjusted to a value ranging from 0.01 to 50, depending on the desired declination.

[0181] Preferably, and without limitation, the quantity of said at least one optical effect solution represents from 0.1 to 99.9% of the second "declination" ratio. In this context, the remaining volume of this second ratio is constituted by the third matrix.

[0182] Furthermore, where appropriate, the mixing operation includes a predetermined quantity of said at least one additive. Again, by "predetermined quantity" is advantageously understood to mean a fixed or predetermined measure, preferably expressed as a mass percentage or a volume percentage relative to the total quantity, for said at least one additive.

[0183] For example, the predetermined quantity of said at least one additive is 0.1 to 10%.

[0184] Preferably, at least one of the aforementioned additives is reported in:

[0185] - said first matrix, prior to the mixing operation detailed later, or - in the cosmetic composition, subsequent to this mixing operation.

[0186] More generally, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is packaged in any type of container or bottle, having an opening adapted to receive a removable cap. This cap can be applied with an applicator (for example, a brush for nail polish).

[0187] Composition of ingredients (composition kit)

[0188] The present invention further relates to the composition of ingredients which is intended to be mixed for the manufacture of the cosmetic composition by implementing the process according to the invention.

[0189] In practice, this composition of ingredients will be accompanied by a procedural note, specifications or instructions, detailing the steps to follow and the proportions for their mixing.

[0190] According to the invention, the ingredient composition comprises:

[0191] - a first matrix,

[0192] - at least one optical effect solution comprising a second matrix containing at least one optical effect agent intended to confer said series of variations of said at least one visual effect, and

[0193] - a third matrix.

[0194] And the ingredients are designed to be mixed in quantities adjusted according to two ratios:

[0195] - a first "series" ratio defined between, on the one hand, a predetermined quantity of said first matrix and, on the other hand, a predetermined quantity of the pair composed of said optical effect solution and said third matrix,

[0196] said first ratio being adjusted according to said series of declinations sought, and - a second "declination" ratio, defined between a quantity of said at least one optical effect solution and a quantity of said third matrix,

[0197] said second ratio being adjusted according to said variation of said at least one visual effect sought from said series of variations.

[0198] As previously developed, according to a preferred embodiment, said third matrix is ​​identical, or at least similar, to said second matrix.

[0199] Of course, various other modifications can be made to the invention within the scope of the appended claims. Examples

[0200] In the examples presented, the process according to the invention therefore relies on a combination of at least three ingredients:

[0201] - a first matrix, also called a "color base" (CB or color base),

[0202] - at least one optically effective solution, also known as a "color solution" (CS or color solution), and

[0203] - a third matrix, also called "color base solution" (CSB or color base solution).

[0204] Example 1 - UV-curable nail polish

[0205] The detailed formulas of the color solutions (CS), color solution base (CSB), and color base (CB) used in the invention are described below.

[0206] These elements constitute suitable components for obtaining homogeneous and consistent formulations in a range or variation of varied visual effects.

[0207] Formulas of dye solutions (DS)

[0208] CS-Red7

[0209] [Table 1]

[0210]

[0211] CS- White

[0212] [Table 2]

[0213]

[0214] Colorant solution base (CSB) formula

[0215] CSB-1

[0216] [Table 3]

[0217]

[0218] Color base formula (CB)

[0219] CB-1

[0220] [Table 4]

[0221]

[0222] Conventional formulations without the use of CSB

[0223] Formulations resulting from a conventional process (without the use of CSB) to produce variations or effects such as deep red, pink, and white are described below.

[0224] Effect-S 1 (AV234) - Deep Red

[0225] [Table 5]

[0226]

[0227] Effect-S2 (AV233) - Pink

[0228] [Table 6]

[0229]

[0230] Effect-S3 (AV232) - White

[0231] [Table 7]

[0232]

[0233] Extended Formulas: The extended formulas of conventional compositions show the specific details of the components, highlighting their distribution to guarantee the mechanical and aesthetic properties of each effect:

[0234] [Table 8]

[0235]

[0236] Formulations resulting from the implementation of the invention (with the use of CSB) to obtain a deep red, a pink, and a white are as follows:

[0237] Effect-N1 (AV231) - Deep Red

[0238] [Table 9]

[0239]

[0240] Effect-N2 (AV230) - Pink

[0241] [Table 10]

[0242]

[0243] Effect-N3 (AV229) - White [Table 11]

[0244]

[0245] The following formulations, described as "extended", show an optimized composition to maximize consistency between effects while ensuring optimal pigment adhesion and homogeneous viscosity:

[0246] [Table 12]

[0247]

[0248] The minimum and maximum concentrations of each ingredient are shown below, along with their deviations, to demonstrate that the present invention makes it possible to maintain a substantially identical final formula (excluding pigments) across a range of colors. This results in greater consistency in the variations of the polymerizable functional groups, since the quantity of oligomers varies much less in the N series than in the S series.

[0249] Thus, when a color base (CB) is developed, the formula is created in combination with a color solution base (CSB) having a predetermined percentage, itself corresponding to the maximum amount of CS "allowed" to produce the effect.

[0250] Furthermore, the results demonstrating improved viscosity consistency thanks to the invention are presented below. The relative viscosities were measured using a Brookfield DVNext viscometer with a spindle 4.

[0251] [Table 13]

[0252]

[0253]

[0254] [Table 14]

[0255]

[0256] The maximum viscosity delta at 6 rpm shows significantly smaller variations for the N series (3333) compared to the S series (18667). This implies that the application of the N series formulas will be more consistent than that of the S series.

[0257] Furthermore, the ratios between the viscosities measured at 6 rpm and 60 rpm reveal better pigment stability in the N series, reducing the risks of phase separation or pigment sedimentation.

[0258] Furthermore, the mechanical properties of the films were measured using a tensile test at 50 mm / min on rectangular samples of 20 mm x 40 mm, repeated five times for each formula. The results are as follows:

[0259] [Table 15]

[0260]

[0261] The results demonstrate that the invention offers a considerable advantage in terms of consistency of film properties in the N series, whereas the S series exhibits significant variations in film properties.

Claims

Demands

1. A method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition intended to confer at least one visual effect on a part of the human body, from among a series of variations of said at least one visual effect, which process includes the following steps: a) an operation to supply a composition of ingredients comprising: - a first matrix, - at least one optical effect solution comprising a second matrix containing at least one optical effect agent intended to confer said series of variations of said at least one visual effect, and - a third matrix; b) an operation of mixing said ingredients, in one or more stages, in which the quantities of said ingredients are adjusted according to two ratios: - a first "series" ratio defined between, on the one hand, a predetermined quantity of said first matrix and, on the other hand, a predetermined quantity of the pair composed of said optical effect solution and said third matrix, said first ratio being adjusted according to said series of desired variations, and - a second "declination" ratio, defined between a quantity of said at least one optical effect solution and a quantity of said third matrix, said second ratio being adjusted according to said variation of said at least one visual effect sought from said series of variations.

2. A method according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetic composition, for example in the form of a nail polish, is adapted to be applied to the nails to confer at least a visual effect on said nails.

3. A method according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein said third matrix is ​​identical, or at least similar, to said second matrix.

4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein said second matrix and said third matrix are selected from organic liquids comprising at least one component selected from: - at least one non-reactive solvent, - at least one compound capable of crosslinking in the presence of a photoinitiator and light, - at least one film-forming agent.

5. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said at least one second matrix and said third matrix are devoid of compounds capable of intentionally initiating polymerization.

6. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein said supply operation further comprises at least one additive, and in which said mixing operation includes a predetermined quantity of said at least one additive.

7. A process according to claim 6, wherein at least one of the ingredients contains at least one additive suitable for intentionally initiating polymerization, namely, for example, at least one polymerizable component and at least one photoinitiator.

8. A process according to any one of claims 6 or 7, wherein said at least one additive is mixed in: - said first matrix, prior to said mixing operation, or - in said cosmetic composition, subsequent to said mixing operation.

9. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the pair consisting of said at least one optical effect solution and said third matrix represents from 5 to 70% by volume of the cosmetic composition, and in which the remaining volume is constituted by said first matrix, and where applicable by said at least one additive.

10. Composition of ingredients, intended to be mixed for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition by implementing the process according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising: - a first matrix, - at least one optical effect solution comprising a second matrix containing at least one optical effect agent intended to confer said series of variations of said at least one visual effect, and - a third matrix, which ingredients are suitable to be mixed in quantities adjusted according to two ratios: - a first "series" ratio defined between, on the one hand, a predetermined quantity of said first matrix and, on the other hand, a predetermined quantity of the pair composed of said optical effect solution and said third matrix, said first ratio being adjusted according to said series of declinations sought, and a second "declination" ratio, defined between a quantity of said at least one optical effect solution and a quantity of said third matrix, said second ratio being adjusted according to said variation of said at least one visual effect sought from said series of variations.

11. Composition of ingredients, according to claim 10, wherein said third matrix is ​​identical, or at least similar, to said second matrix.

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