Transparent solid cosmetic

Abstract

The present invention addresses the problem of providing a method for reducing cracks and sweating in a transparent solid composition containing an amino acid-based gelling agent. Provided are: a transparent solid cosmetic comprising an amino acid-based gelling agent and a fatty acid ester having a C3 or higher hydrocarbon side chain; a premix for preparing the cosmetic; and a method for reducing cracking and sweating, the method comprising blending a fatty acid ester having a C3 or higher hydrocarbon side chain into the transparent solid cosmetic containing an amino acid-based gelling agent.

Description

Transparent solid cosmetic

[0001] The present invention relates to a transparent solid cosmetic containing an amino acid-based gelling agent, a method for reducing sweating and / or cracking in the cosmetic, and a premix for the cosmetic.

[0002] Amino acid-based gelling agents such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide (trade name: GP-1, Ajinomoto Co., Inc.) and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide (trade name: EB-21, Ajinomoto Co., Inc.) are known to be gelling agents capable of producing a gel composition having excellent gel strength and transparency (Patent Document 1). Also, in a transparent solid cosmetic containing an amino acid-based gelling agent, in order to provide a transparent oily solid cosmetic having excellent transparency and no sweating property, an oil agent having a refractive index of 1.460 or more at 20°C and an oil agent having a volume expansion rate of 0.065% / °C or less are proposed to be combined (Patent Document 2).

[0003] On the other hand, in an oily cosmetic containing a fluoropolyether copolymerized silicone, in order to provide a stick-shaped oily cosmetic having a glossy and moist feeling that lasts for a long time and excellent durability of the makeup effect, an acyl amino acid derivative, and a liquid ester composition obtained by esterifying a specific amount of wax and a specific branched isostearic acid are combined (Patent Document 3). In an oily cosmetic containing a fluoropolyether copolymerized silicone, in order to provide an oily cosmetic having a transparent feeling and gloss during application, stability over time, and durability of the makeup effect, a liquid ester composition obtained by esterifying dipentaerythritol and a specific branched isostearic acid, and silanized anhydrous silicic acid and / or an amino acid derivative represented by a specific general formula are combined (Patent Document 4), etc. have been studied, but none of these provide a transparent solid cosmetic. [[ID=!0]]

[0004] JP-A-2002-316971 JP-A-2018-203619 JP-A-2010-132562 JP-A-2010-83865

[0005] Transparent solid cosmetics can effectively utilize their property of allowing the contents of the formulation to be seen. For example, unlike formulations that aim for a matte effect when applied, their transparency can be used in makeup to impart gloss and a fresh, dewy look to the applied surface. Furthermore, by embedding appropriate amounts of decorative elements such as glitter, pearlescent agents, holograms, flowers, and gold leaf within the formulation and solidifying it, the appearance can be effectively enhanced, significantly increasing the added value of the product.

[0006] On the other hand, while microscopic cracks that occur during the solidification and molding of a formulation usually do not affect opaque solid formulations, transparent solid formulations, due to their characteristic of exposing the interior, require simultaneous measures to address cracks that occur within the formulation. Similarly, the inventors of this invention faced the problem that conventional cosmetics manufactured using amino acid-based gelling agents, while possessing the aforementioned transparency, are prone to cracking.

[0007] Furthermore, the inventors faced the problem that transparent solid cosmetics manufactured using amino acid-based gelling agents were prone to the appearance of oil droplets on the surface as the ambient temperature rose, a phenomenon known as "sweating." When oil droplet-type sweating occurs on the surface of a cosmetic, it leaves a pattern, exposing the quality of the cosmetic and any shortcomings in temperature control. This can lead consumers to doubt the aesthetic appeal and overall quality of the cosmetic, making it necessary to devise ways to prevent the aforementioned oil droplet-type sweating.

[0008] Through diligent research, the inventors discovered that combining a specific fatty acid ester with a transparent solid composition using an amino acid-based gelling agent reduces crack formation and / or sweating, thus completing the present invention.

[0009] [1] A transparent solid cosmetic comprising an amino acid-based gelling agent and a fatty acid ester, wherein the fatty acid ester has a hydrocarbon side chain having 3 or more carbon atoms. [2] The transparent solid cosmetic according to [1], wherein the fatty acid ester has hydrocarbon side chains on both a hydrocarbon group derived from a fatty acid and a hydrocarbon group derived from an alcohol. [3] The transparent solid cosmetic according to [1] or [2], wherein the hydrocarbon side chain having 3 or more carbon atoms is branched. [4] The transparent solid cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the fatty acid ester has multiple hydrocarbon side chains. [5] The transparent solid cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the fatty acid ester is an isostearate ester.

[0010] [6] The fatty acid ester is an isostearic acid ester obtained by esterifying isostearic acid having the following structure: A transparent solid cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [5]. [7] The isostearate ester is an isostearate ester represented by any of the following formulas. A transparent solid cosmetic composition according to [5] or [6]. [8] A transparent solid cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [7], further comprising a fatty acid having 3 to 22 carbon atoms and / or an alcohol having 4 to 24 carbon atoms. [9] A method for reducing perspiration and cracking of a transparent solid cosmetic composition containing an amino acid-based gelling agent, comprising adding a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain of 3 or more carbon atoms.

[0011]

[10] The method according to [9], further comprising the addition of a fatty acid having 3 to 22 carbon atoms and / or an alcohol having 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

[11] An agent for reducing cracking and perspiration of an amino acid-based gelling agent-containing cosmetic, comprising a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain of 3 or more carbon atoms.

[12] A premix for a transparent solid cosmetic comprising an amino acid-based gelling agent, a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain of 3 or more carbon atoms, and a solvent.

[13] The premix for a transparent solid cosmetic according to

[12] , wherein the solvent is a fatty acid having 3 to 22 carbon atoms and / or an alcohol having 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

[14] A premix for a transparent solid cosmetic comprising an amino acid-based gelling agent, a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain of 3 or more carbon atoms, a fatty acid having 3 to 22 carbon atoms and / or an alcohol having 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0012] By combining an amino acid-based gelling agent with a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with three or more carbon atoms, a transparent solid cosmetic composition with reduced crack formation can be provided. Furthermore, by combining an amino acid-based gelling agent with an ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with three or more carbon atoms, a transparent solid cosmetic composition with reduced sweating can also be provided.

[0013] Furthermore, by combining an amino acid-based gelling agent, a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with three or more carbon atoms, and a solvent, it is possible to reduce sweating and cracking, and to provide a premix for transparent solid cosmetics that is easy to handle.

[0014] Photographs showing the state of oil droplet-type sweating and the state of coating-type oil film. Photographs showing the low-temperature sweating state of a transparent solid cosmetic containing a fatty acid ester having hydrocarbon side chains with fewer than 3 carbon atoms and an amino acid-based gelling agent. Photographs showing the low-temperature sweating state of a transparent solid cosmetic containing a fatty acid ester having hydrocarbon side chains with 3 or more carbon atoms and an amino acid-based gelling agent. Photographs showing the high-temperature and low-temperature sweating states of a transparent solid cosmetic containing an amino acid-based gelling agent but without fatty acid esters having hydrocarbon side chains with 3 or more carbon atoms, and a transparent solid cosmetic containing an amino acid-based gelling agent and containing fatty acid esters having hydrocarbon side chains with 3 or more carbon atoms.

[0015] In this specification, "solid cosmetic composition" refers to a cosmetic composition that can maintain a solid shape at room temperature (25°C). In this specification, "cosmetic composition" refers to a material that can be used in the manufacture of body care products, skin care products, makeup products, hair care products, fragrance products, etc., but is not limited to these. Examples of body care products include, but are not limited to, UV care products, deodorant products, body skin care products, body fragrance products, and body cleansing products. Examples of skin care products include, but are not limited to, cleansing products, facial washes, whitening cosmetics, UV care cosmetics, and anti-aging products. Examples of makeup products include, but are not limited to, foundations, lip colors, lipsticks, lip balms, eyeliners, eyeshadows, blushes, and highlighters. Examples of hair care products include, but are not limited to, hair sticks, hair styling waxes, hair treatments, one-day hair colorants, and hair glosses. Fragrance products include, but are not limited to, perfumes, eau de toilette, eau de cologne, eau de parfum, roll-on fragrances, and solid perfume sticks.

[0016] In this specification, "transparent" means that the transmittance of visible light passing through the solid cosmetic is greater than zero. In one embodiment of the present invention, a transmittance of 15% or more, as shown later, can be said to be sufficiently transparent, 30% or more can be said to be good transparency, and 60% or more can be said to be excellent transparency. In this specification, "crack" means a minute crack visible to the naked eye in the transparent solid cosmetic. In this specification, "sweating" means oil droplets visible to the naked eye in the transparent solid cosmetic. On the other hand, a state in which the entire surface of the solid cosmetic is wet (coating-type oil film) does not constitute sweating, which is the problem, because it can maintain a beautiful appearance.

[0017] <Amino Acid-Based Gelling Agents> In this specification, "amino acid-based gelling agent" refers to a gelling agent having amino acid residues. Any amino acid-based gelling agent commonly used in cosmetics can be used without limitation.

[0018] Specifically, examples include amino acid derivatives represented by the following formula (1): In the formula, R １ and R ２ R is a linear or branched alkyl group of C1 to C10 atoms, which may be identical or different from each other; ３ n is a linear or branched alkyl group between C1 and C26; n is an integer of 1 or 2.

[0019] Specifically, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide are preferred. Examples of commercially available products include dibutyl lauroyl glutamide (trade name: GP-1) and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide (trade name: EB-21) manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.

[0020] By using a combination of amino acid-based gelling agents, highly transparent cosmetics and beauty products can be provided. In one embodiment of the present invention, a compound represented by the above formula (1), wherein R ３ A compound in which is a linear alkyl group of C1 to C26, for example, dibutyllauroyl glutamide, and a compound represented by the above formula (1), where R ３It is preferable to combine it with a compound in which is a C1-C26 branched alkyl group, for example, dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide. The compound represented by the above formula (1), in which R ３ A compound in which is a linear alkyl group of C1 to C26, and a compound represented by the above formula (1), wherein R ３ The blending ratio of the compound with a C1-C26 branched alkyl group can be selected as appropriate, but from the viewpoint of transmittance, it is preferably 75:25 to 25:75, and more preferably 75:25 to 50:50.

[0021] In one embodiment of the present invention, when dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide are included, the blending ratio is determined from the viewpoint of transmittance, and the blending ratio (dibutyl lauroyl glutamide:dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide) is preferably 75:25 to 25:75, and more preferably 75:25 to 50:50. By using a blending ratio within this range, a cosmetic composition with high transparency can be produced.

[0022] For improved workability, amino acid-based gelling agents can also be used as a premixed gel diluted and dissolved in a solvent. Specifically, it is preferable to use a premixed gel in which the amino acid-based gelling agent has been dissolved in a solvent beforehand. The solvent is not limited as long as it can be gelled by the amino acid-based gelling agent, but fatty acids with 3 to 22 carbon atoms or higher alcohols with 4 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. From the viewpoint of high transparency, octyldodecanol, isostearic acid, etc., are more preferred. The content of the amino acid-based gelling agent in the premixed gel is preferably 10 to 45% by weight, more preferably 15 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably 20 to 36% by weight, from the viewpoint of improving workability, gelling of oil, and reducing oil separation of the premixed gel itself. Examples of commercially available premix gels include AJK-OD2046 (containing 20% ​​by weight of an amino acid-based gelling agent and 80% by weight of octyldodecanol) and AJK-IS3613 (containing 36% by weight of an amino acid-based gelling agent and 64% by weight of isostearic acid), both manufactured by Higher Alcohol Industries Co., Ltd.

[0023] <Fatty Acid Esters> At least one of the fatty acid esters used in the present invention has a hydrocarbon side chain having 3 or more carbon atoms. In one embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon side chain of the fatty acid ester used in the present invention may have 4 or more carbon atoms, 5 or more carbon atoms, 6 or more carbon atoms, or 7 or more carbon atoms. In one embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon side chain of the fatty acid ester used in the present invention may have 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, or 12 carbon atoms, and the fatty acid ester used may be a mixture of fatty acid esters having hydrocarbon side chains with these different carbon number configurations.

[0024] In one embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon side chains of the fatty acid ester used in the present invention are branched side chains. The fatty acid ester may have one or more hydrocarbon side chains. If the fatty acid ester has multiple hydrocarbon side chains, some of them may be hydrocarbon side chains having 1 or 2 carbon atoms. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid ester has branched hydrocarbon side chains having 3 or more carbon atoms, and hydrocarbon side chains having 1 or 2 carbon atoms.

[0025] In one aspect of the present invention, the fatty acid ester has a hydrocarbon group derived from a fatty acid having a hydrocarbon side chain having 3 or more carbon atoms. In another aspect of the present invention, the fatty acid ester has a hydrocarbon group derived from an alcohol having a hydrocarbon side chain having 3 or more carbon atoms.

[0026] In one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid ester has hydrocarbon side chains on both the hydrocarbon group derived from the fatty acid and the hydrocarbon group derived from the alcohol. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid ester has a hydrocarbon side chain having 3 or more carbon atoms on either the hydrocarbon group derived from the fatty acid or the hydrocarbon group derived from the alcohol, and the other has a hydrocarbon side chain having 1 or more carbon atoms. In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid ester is a diester or triester, and a plurality of hydrocarbon groups derived from the fatty acid have hydrocarbon side chains having 3 or more carbon atoms.

[0027] In one embodiment of the present invention, fatty acid esters without hydrocarbon side chains having 3 or more carbon atoms may be used in combination, to the extent that they do not impair the effects of the present invention. Fatty acid esters without hydrocarbon side chains having 3 or more carbon atoms are typically fatty acid esters having only a methyl side chain as the hydrocarbon side chain, and more specifically, examples include esters of a fatty acid having only one methyl side chain in the fatty acid chain (for example, in the case of isostearic acid, also known as methylheptadecanoic acid, so-called emery-type isostearic acid) and an alcohol (referred to as "methyl branched fatty acid ester" in this specification).

[0028] Fatty acid esters can be used without restriction as long as they are used in cosmetics. From the viewpoint of skin irritation and odor, typically fatty acid esters have 16 to 54 carbon atoms. Examples include isobutyrate, isovalerate, neopentanoate, 2-ethylhexanoate, isononanoate, isotridecanoate, isopalmitate, isopentadecanoate, isohexadecanoate, isoheptadecanoate, isostearate, isononadecanoate, 2-octyldodecanoate, isoarachidicate, phytanate, isobehenate, dimer acid, and trimer acid.

[0029] Examples of these commercially available products include ICEH (hexyldecyl ethylhexanoate), ICM-R (isocetyl myristate), ICIS (hexyldecyl isostearate), ODM (octyldodecyl myristate), Hymalate DIS (diisostearyl malate), and KAK DADIP-R (diisopropyl dilinoleate) from Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd., as well as isostearyl isostearate (isostearyl isostearate) from Nissan Chemical Corporation.

[0030] Furthermore, fatty acid esters having hydrocarbon side chains with three or more carbon atoms can be synthesized by esterification of a fatty acid with an alcohol. For example, they can be synthesized by esterification of a fatty acid having hydrocarbon side chains with three or more carbon atoms with an alcohol, or by esterification of a fatty acid with an alcohol having hydrocarbon side chains with three or more carbon atoms.

[0031] Fatty acids having hydrocarbon side chains with three or more carbon atoms that can be used as raw materials for fatty acid esters typically include isostearic acid, isoarachidic acid, hexyldecanoic acid (isopalmitic acid), and octyldodecanoic acid. Among these, when considering use in cosmetics, isostearic acid is preferred when selecting a substance while taking into account its molecular weight, presence or absence of double bonds, reaction efficiency during manufacturing, and availability of reaction raw materials, while also considering factors such as skin penetration, irritation, viscosity which affects the feel of the product, and the absence of an unpleasant odor after application of the cosmetic, as well as oxidative stability.

[0032] Specifically, examples include isostearic acid having hydrocarbon side chains with 3 or more carbon atoms, represented by the following formulas (2) to (4), (5), and (6):

[0033] As an example, the following describes methods for producing isostearic acid with various branched structures, but branched fatty acids with different numbers of carbon atoms can also be prepared in a similar manner. By dimerizing nonyl alcohols in a Guerbet reaction, or by performing a cross-Guerbet reaction between octyl and decyl alcohols followed by oxidation, isostearic acid of formulas (2), (3), or (4) (hexyldodecanoic acid, heptylundecanoic acid, or octyldecanoic acid) can be prepared. Isostearic acid of formula (5), which has two branches, can be prepared by using an alcohol with methyl branching.

[0034] A branched aldehyde with 9 carbon atoms can be synthesized by the oxo reaction of an aldol condensation type isobutylene dimer, followed by aldol condensation to synthesize a branched unsaturated aldehyde with 18 carbon atoms. Subsequent hydrogenation and oxidation then allow for the preparation of isostearic acid of formula (6).

[0035] The alcohol used as a raw material for fatty acid esters having hydrocarbon side chains with 3 or more carbon atoms is not particularly limited, but typically includes monohydric or polyhydric alcohols with straight or branched chains of 2 to 54 carbon atoms. In one embodiment of the present invention, when the alcohol used as a raw material for fatty acid esters having hydrocarbon side chains with 3 or more carbon atoms is a monohydric alcohol, it is preferable that it has a branched structure. Specific examples of alcohols used as raw materials for fatty acid esters having hydrocarbon side chains with 3 or more carbon atoms include ethanol, propanol, heptanol, octanol, nonanol, decanol, undecanol, dodecanol, tridecanol, tetradecanol, pentadecanol, hexadecanol, heptadecanol, and isomers of these alcohols, isostearyl alcohol, isononanol, isotridecanol, glycerin, trimethylolpropane, dipentaerythritol, and polyglycerin. Among these, isostearyl alcohol, isononanol, isotridecanol, glycerin, and trimethylolpropane are preferred when selected considering factors such as skin penetration, irritation, viscosity (which affects the feel of the product), the absence of an unpleasant odor after application of the cosmetic, oxidative stability, molecular weight, presence or absence of double bonds, reaction efficiency during manufacturing, and availability of reaction raw materials.

[0036] In one aspect of the present invention, preferred fatty acid esters include isostearyl isostearate represented by formula (7) (also referred to herein as "ISIS-AA"), triisostearin represented by formula (8) (also referred to herein as "TISG-A"), trimethylolpropane triisostearate represented by formula (9) (also referred to herein as "TTI-A"), isononyl isostearate represented by formula (10) (also referred to herein as "918A"), and isotridecyl isostearate represented by formula (11) (also referred to herein as "1318A").

[0037]

[0038] Alcohols having a hydrocarbon side chain with 3 or more carbon atoms include 2-propylheptanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-pentylnonanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-heptylundecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-nonyltridecanol, isoarachidyl alcohol, 2-decyltetradecanol, and the like. Among these, when assuming use in cosmetics, considering the permeability to the skin, irritation, viscosity that affects the feel of use, no unpleasant odor after applying the cosmetics, and oxidation stability, and taking into account the molecular weight of this substance, the presence or absence of double bonds, and the reaction efficiency during production and the availability of reaction raw materials, isostearyl alcohol is preferred. Specific isostearyl alcohol is isostearyl alcohol in which the carboxy group (-COOH) of isostearic acid of the above formulas (2) to (4), (5) and (6) is replaced with a hydroxy group (-CH ２ OH).

[0039] <Transparent solid cosmetic> In one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a transparent solid cosmetic containing an amino acid-based gelling agent and a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with 3 or more carbon atoms. The transparent solid cosmetic contains an oil agent gelled by an amino acid-based gelling agent. The blending amounts of the amino acid-based gelling agent and the fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with 3 or more carbon atoms in the transparent solid cosmetic can be appropriately selected depending on the specific use of the transparent solid cosmetic, the desired feeling of use, hardness, etc.

[0040] The content of the amino acid-based gelling agent in the transparent solid cosmetic is preferably 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably 2 to 8% by weight from the viewpoints of the gelling effect, transparency, crack reduction, and sweating reduction. In one aspect of the present invention, the content of dibutyllauroylglutamide in the transparent solid cosmetic is preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 1 to 8% by weight, and even more preferably 1.5 to 7% by weight. In one aspect of the present invention, the content of dibutylethylhexanoylglutamide in the transparent solid cosmetic is preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, and even more preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight.

[0041] The content of the fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with 3 or more carbon atoms in the transparent solid cosmetic (for example, isostearic acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with 3 or more carbon atoms) is preferably 5 to 60% by weight, more preferably 10 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably 20 to 40% by weight from the viewpoints of crack reduction and sweating reduction.

[0042] The content of other oil agents in the transparent solid cosmetic can be appropriately selected depending on their types, the specific use of the transparent solid cosmetic, the desired feeling of use, hardness, etc., but is preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more preferably 35 to 70% by weight, and even more preferably 40 to 55% by weight. When the transparent solid cosmetic contains a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with 3 or more carbon atoms and other oil agents, from the viewpoints of the gelling effect, transparency, feeling of use, and crack reduction and sweating reduction, the fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with 3 or more carbon atoms: other oil agents is preferably in the range of 2:8 to 4:6, for example, about 3:7.

[0043] <Oils> The oils are not particularly limited as long as they are ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, etc., but examples include animal and vegetable oils and fats, hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, ester oils, and silicone oils, and these can be used alone or in combination of two or more. When an amino acid-based gelling agent premix is ​​used in the preparation of a transparent solid cosmetic, the oils used further may be the same as or different from the solvent oils contained in these premixes.

[0044] Examples of animal and vegetable oils and fats or hydrogenated animal and vegetable oils include avocado oil, hen oil, olive oil, cocoa butter, kaya oil, apricot kernel oil, hydrogenated oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, rice germ oil, rice bran oil, sugarcane wax, camellia oil, safflower oil, shea butter, cinnamon oil, soybean oil, tea seed oil, camellia oil, evening primrose oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, germ oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, sunflower oil, grape oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, beeswax, cottonseed oil, cotton wax, Japanese wax, montan wax, coconut oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, peanut oil, lanolin, liquid lanolin, reduced lanolin, lanolin alcohol, hard lanolin, lanolin acetate, isopropyl lanolin fatty acid, and hexyl laurate.

[0045] Examples of hydrocarbon oils include ozokerite, squalane, squalene, ceresin, paraffin, isoparaffin, paraffin wax, liquid paraffin (mineral oil), pristane, polyisobutylene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, and petrolatum. Examples of higher fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid, undecylenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). Examples of higher alcohols include myristyl alcohol, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, hydrogenated rapeseed alcohol, octyldodecanol, and isohexatricontanol.

[0046] Examples of ester oils include monoesters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, and tricyclodecanemethyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexanoic acid such as cetyl ethylhexanoate and hexyldecyl ethylhexanoate; myristic acid esters such as isopropyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, and octyldodecyl myristate; and isostearate esters such as ethyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, hexyldecyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, cholesteryl isostearate, and phytosteryl isostearate. Examples include lactate esters such as isostearyl lactate and octyldodecyl lactate, oleate esters such as oleyl oleate, phytosteryl oleate and octyldodecyl oleate, neopentanoate esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, palmitate esters such as isopropyl palmitate and ethylhexyl palmitate, and others such as ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl neodecanoate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, oleyl erucate, octyldodecyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate and glyceryl caprate.

[0047] Examples of diester oils include dipentaerythrityl hexasiononanoate, diisobutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate, neopentyl glycol diisononanoate, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, diisopropyl dilinoleate, ethylene glycol dioctanoate, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, diisopropyl sebacate, di(cholesteryl / octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate, and di(phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate. Examples of triester oils include triethylhexanoin, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, triisostearin, and trimethylolpropane triisostearate. Examples of tetraester oils include pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate and pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.

[0048] Examples of polyester oils include polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, and polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, which are polyglycerin fatty acid esters. Examples of highly viscous ester oils include hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, (polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate) copolymer, dimer dilinoleate (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), dimer dilinoleyl bis(phytosteryl / behenyl / isostearyl), di(isostearyl / phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleate, hydrogenated rosin condensate of dimer dilinoleyl, dimer dilinoleyl diisostearate, dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, di(cholesteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate, di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) lauroyl glutamate, and myristoyl methylalanine (phytosteryl / decyltetradecyl).

[0049] Examples of silicone oils include dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, alkyl-modified organopolysiloxane, terminal-modified organopolysiloxane, fluorine-modified organopolysiloxane, amodimethicone, amino-modified organopolysiloxane, volatile silicones, alkyldimethicone, and cyclopentasiloxane.

[0050] In one embodiment of the present invention, from the viewpoint of having a proven track record of use in cosmetics and being a formulation preferred by consumers, it is preferable to use oils such as hydrocarbon oils and vegetable oils, and these can be combined as appropriate. In one embodiment of the present invention, from the viewpoint of transparency, if solid oils such as hydrocarbons and waxes are included, the content is less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, more preferably 1% by weight, and in a preferred embodiment, no wax is included. In one embodiment of the present invention, from the viewpoint of transparency, it is preferable to include isostearic acid and / or octyldodecanol, and from the viewpoint of suppressing sweating, it is even more preferable to include octyldodecanol.

[0051] <Other Ingredients> The transparent solid cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain any ingredients commonly used in cosmetics. Examples of these additional ingredients include UV absorbers such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, and octocrylene; polyhydric alcohols (moisturizers and preservatives) such as 1,3-butylene glycol and pentylene glycol; quality-preserving ingredients such as antioxidants and preservatives; medicinal ingredients and active ingredients such as whitening agents, anti-wrinkle agents, and antioxidants; fragrances; and decorative agents such as colorants, dyes, pigments, and pearlescent agents.

[0052] Furthermore, in one embodiment of the present invention, other gelling agents, such as polysaccharide gelling agents like dextrin fatty acid esters, and waxes commonly used for solidifying cosmetics may be used in combination with the amino acid-based gelling agent, to the extent that they do not impede the transparency of the cosmetic.

[0053] In the present invention, from the viewpoint of providing a transparent solid cosmetic composition, it is preferable that the composition does not contain oil-insoluble pigments, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or iron oxide. In one embodiment of the present invention, due to reasons such as poor solubility with amino acid-based gelling agents, the transparent solid cosmetic composition of the present invention does not need to contain fluorine polyether-modified silicone, and even if it does contain it, it may be less than 5% by weight or less than 1% by weight of the total amount of the transparent solid cosmetic composition.

[0054] <Premix> In one embodiment of the present invention, an amino acid-based gelling agent and a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with 3 or more carbon atoms may be used as a premix. From the viewpoint of improving workability, it may also be used as a premix diluted and dissolved in a solvent, preferably as a solid premix. Specifically, a premix can be prepared by pre-dissolving an amino acid-based gelling agent and a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with 3 or more carbon atoms in a solvent. The solvent is not limited as long as it can be gelled by the amino acid-based gelling agent, but fatty acids with 3 to 22 carbon atoms and higher alcohols with 4 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. From the viewpoint of solubility and transparency of the gelling agent, octyldodecanol and isostearic acid are particularly preferred.

[0055] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a premix is ​​provided comprising an amino acid-based gelling agent, a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with 3 or more carbon atoms, and a solvent. In a more preferred embodiment of the present invention, a premix is ​​provided comprising an amino acid-based gelling agent, a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with 3 or more carbon atoms, and a solvent selected from fatty acids having 3 to 22 carbon atoms and higher alcohols having 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0056] In a more preferred embodiment of the present invention, a premix is ​​provided comprising an amino acid-based gelling agent, an isostearate ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with 3 or more carbon atoms, and a solvent selected from fatty acids having 3 to 22 carbon atoms and higher alcohols having 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0057] In another embodiment of the present invention, a premix comprising an amino acid-based gelling agent, an isostearate ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with three or more carbon atoms, and isostearate and / or octyldodecanol is provided.

[0058] The proportions of each component in the premix can be selected as appropriate. From the viewpoint of gelling effect, the content of amino acid-based gelling agents in the premix is ​​preferably 1 to 50% by weight, more preferably 2 to 45% by weight, and even more preferably 4 to 40% by weight. From the viewpoint of reducing perspiration and cracking, the content of fatty acid esters having hydrocarbon side chains with 3 or more carbon atoms (e.g., isostearate esters having hydrocarbon side chains with 3 or more carbon atoms) in the premix is ​​preferably 0.5 to 80% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 60% by weight, and even more preferably 1 to 40% by weight. From the viewpoint of handling, the content of solvents in the premix is ​​preferably 50 to 99% by weight, more preferably 55 to 98% by weight, and even more preferably 60 to 96% by weight.

[0059] In one embodiment of the present invention, it is preferable to combine dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide as an amino acid-based gelling agent, in which case the content of dibutyl lauroyl glutamide in the premix is ​​1 to 30% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight, and the content of dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide is 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 2 to 10% by weight.

[0060] <Method for Producing Transparent Solid Cosmetics> The transparent solid cosmetics of the present invention can be prepared by conventional methods. For example, they can be prepared by dissolving, mixing, and cooling each component. In one embodiment of the present invention, when a premix is ​​used, the premix can be mixed and dissolved with an oily component such as an oil, and then cooled. More specifically, the transparent premix can be dissolved, added and mixed with an oily component such as a heated oil, and then cooled.

[0061] <Method for producing the premix> The premix of the present invention can be prepared by conventional methods. For example, it can be prepared by dissolving, mixing, and cooling each component.

[0062] The present invention will be described in more detail below based on examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples, and various modifications are possible without departing from the technical spirit of the invention. In this specification, unless otherwise specified, % means weight percent.

[0063] [Synthesis Example] Isostearic acid of fatty acid ester formula (6), which has a hydrocarbon side chain having 3 or more carbon atoms, was esterified with the corresponding alcohol by a conventional method to obtain isostearic acid esters having a hydrocarbon side chain having 3 or more carbon atoms represented by formulas (7), (8), (9), (10), and (11).

[0064] The following commercially available esters were used as comparison targets for methyl branched fatty acid esters: ISIS (Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.): Isostearyl isostearate TISG (Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.): Triisostearin KAK TTI (Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.): Trimethylolpropane triisostearate

[0065] [Test Example 1] [Sample Preparation Method] A composition containing 15% AJK-IS3613 or AJK-OD2046 and 85% of each fatty acid ester was prepared as follows: (1) Each raw material was dissolved at 115-125°C and then mixed. (2) The mixture was poured into a container and allowed to cool overnight.

[0066] AJK-IS3613 (Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.) is a premix containing dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, and isostearic acid in amounts of 27%, 9%, and 64%, respectively, and is also referred to herein as "AJK-IS". AJK-OD2046 (Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.) is a premix containing dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, and octyldodecanol in amounts of 12%, 8%, and 80%, respectively, and is also referred to herein as "AJK-OD".

[0067] [Evaluation] - Transmittance: Samples solidified in disposable cells made of methacrylic resin (PMMA) were measured using a UV-Vis spectrophotometer V-650 (JASCO Corporation) in the absorption wavelength range of 350 nm to 800 nm, and the average value of the values ​​in the range of 380 nm to 750 nm was taken as the transmittance. Water was used as a blank.

[0068] - Hardness: In measuring hardness in this invention, the sample was placed in a 25°C constant temperature bath for 24 hours. At room temperature of 25°C, measurements were taken using a Shimadzu EZ TEST EZ-SX 20N, with a needle-type jig having a diameter of 1 mm and a length of 30 mm, at a needle insertion speed of 10 mm / min and a stroke of 10 mm. The average value of the hardness was taken as the hardness value of the sample.

[0069] - Solidified samples were visually inspected in crack cells (n=3). ◎: All without cracks ×: Cracks present

[0070] ・The following two types of tests were conducted using solidified samples of the sweating lipstick. <High temperature> After storing in a constant temperature bath at 45°C for 30 minutes and 7 hours, the amount of sweat was visually evaluated on the following 5-point scale. Test start: Storage after 30 minutes Test end: Storage after 7 hours <Low temperature> After storing in a refrigerator for 24 hours, the sample was returned to room temperature, and after 1 hour and 5 hours, the amount of sweat was visually evaluated on the following 5-point scale. Test start: Initial: After 1 hour after returning to room temperature Test end: After 5 hours after returning to room temperature <5-point evaluation scale> 1: Large oil droplets or liquid accumulation at the bottom 2: Medium oil droplets or coating-type oil film overall 3: Small oil droplets or coating-type oil film overall 4: Oil droplets or coating-type oil film in some areas 5: No sweating Examples of oil droplet-type sweating and coating-type oil film are shown in Figure 1.

[0071] <Overall Evaluation Including Sweat Volume and Form> Subsequently, the amount and form of sweat were comprehensively judged according to the following evaluation criteria. ◎: Sweat level 4 or higher throughout the test 〇: Sweating occurs at the beginning of the test but returns to level 4 or higher by the end of the test ●: Remains a coating-type oil film at the end of the test △: Sweating occurs at the beginning of the test but returns to about level 3 by the end of the test (oil droplet type) ×: Oil droplet type throughout the test The sweating results are shown in Table 1 and Table 2 below. In addition, some of the results are shown in Figure 2 (Comparative Example) and Figure 3 (Example).

[0072]

[0073]

[0074] From the above results, it can be understood that by combining an amino acid-based gelling agent with a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with three or more carbon atoms, a solid composition with high transparency, no cracking, and suppressed oil droplet-type perspiration can be obtained.

[0075] [Test Example 2] The compositions of the formulations in Table 3 were prepared in the same manner as in Test Example 1, and hardness (cell), transparency (cell), perspiration (lipstick shape), and cracking (both cell and lipstick shape) were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 4. As additional oils, ISIS (Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.): isostearyl isostearate and Lisocasta ODSHS (Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.): octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate were used.

[0076]

[0077]

[0078] From the above results, it can be understood that by combining an amino acid-based gelling agent with a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with three or more carbon atoms, a solid composition can be obtained in which transparency is increased, cracking is suppressed, and oil droplet-type perspiration is reduced.

[0079] [Test Example 3] Example of a transparent lipstick formulation (1) Heat raw materials 2-3 to 110°C (2) Add raw material 7 or 8 to (1) and dissolve uniformly at 110°C while stirring (3) Heat raw materials 1, 4, 5 or 6 to 110-115°C, then add (2) and dissolve uniformly while stirring (4) Pour into a container and allow to cool overnight. Hardness (cell), transparency (cell), perspiration (lipstick shape), and cracking (both cell and lipstick shape) were evaluated in the same manner as in Test Example 1. The results are shown in Table 5.

[0080]

[0081] <Ingredients> Pearlream 24 (NOF Co., Ltd.): Hydrogenated polyisobutene KAK TCIN (Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.): Tricyclodecanemethyl isononanoate KAK 139 (Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.): Isotridecyl hyaluronic acid isononanoate DPIN6 (Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.): Dipentaerythrityl hexasiononanoate

[0082] As can be seen from Table 5, by incorporating fatty acid esters having hydrocarbon side chains with three or more carbon atoms, a transparent lip cosmetic was obtained that is highly transparent, crack-free, and does not cause sweating due to temperature increases at high and low temperatures.

[0083] [Test Example 4] Example of a transparent sun care stick formulation A transparent sun care stick cosmetic formulation according to the formulation described in Table 6 below was prepared by the following preparation method. <Preparation Method> (1) Raw materials 1, 3-7 were heated to 110°C and dissolved uniformly while stirring. (2) Raw material 2 was heated to 110°C, then (1) was added and dissolved uniformly while stirring. (3) The mixture was poured into a stick container and allowed to cool for 24 hours. In the same manner as in Test Example 1, hardness (cell), transparency (cell), perspiration (stick shape), and cracking (both cell and stick shape) were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 6 and Figure 4.

[0084]

[0085] <Ingredients> KAK NDO (Higher Alcohol Industry Co., Ltd.): Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate Uvinul MC 80 (BASF Japan Ltd.): Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Uvinul A Plus Granular (BASF Japan Ltd.): Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate PARSOL 340 (DSM Co., Ltd.): Octocrylene Hydroxystearin (KF Trading Co., Ltd.): Hydroxystearic Acid

[0086] By incorporating TISG-A, a fatty acid ester having hydrocarbon side chains with three or more carbon atoms, cracking and oil droplet-type sweating were reduced. In a comparative example containing hydroxystearin, which is said to have a sweat-reducing effect, oil droplet-type sweating occurred, but in the example containing TISG-A, it was improved to a coating-type oil film.

[0087] From the above results, it is understood that by incorporating a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with three or more carbon atoms into a cosmetic formulation containing an amino acid gelling agent, it is possible to provide a transparent solid cosmetic with high transparency and less cracking and perspiration. Furthermore, it is understood that a premix containing an amino acid gelling agent, a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with three or more carbon atoms, and optionally a solvent is useful for preparing such a transparent cosmetic.

[0088] In a transparent solid composition using an amino acid-based gelling agent, a composition with high transparency and reduced perspiration and cracking can be provided by incorporating a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with three or more carbon atoms. Furthermore, a method and premix for preparing such a transparent solid composition can be provided.

Claims

1. A transparent solid cosmetic comprising an amino acid-based gelling agent and a fatty acid ester, wherein the fatty acid ester has a hydrocarbon side chain having 3 or more carbon atoms.

2. The transparent solid cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty acid ester has hydrocarbon side chains on both the hydrocarbon group derived from the fatty acid and the hydrocarbon group derived from the alcohol.

3. The transparent solid cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrocarbon side chain having 3 or more carbon atoms is branched.

4. The transparent solid cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty acid ester has a plurality of hydrocarbon side chains.

5. The transparent solid cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty acid ester is an isostearate ester.

6. The fatty acid ester is an isostearic acid ester obtained by esterifying isostearic acid having the following structure: The transparent solid cosmetic composition according to claim 5.

7. The isostearate ester is an isostearate ester represented by one of the following formulas: The transparent solid cosmetic composition according to claim 6.

8. A transparent solid cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising a fatty acid having 3 to 22 carbon atoms and / or an alcohol having 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

9. A method for reducing perspiration and cracking of a transparent solid cosmetic containing an amino acid-based gelling agent, comprising adding a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with three or more carbon atoms.

10. The method according to claim 9, further comprising adding a fatty acid having 3 to 22 carbon atoms and / or an alcohol having 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

11. An agent for reducing cracking and sweating in cosmetics containing an amino acid-based gelling agent, which includes a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with three or more carbon atoms.

12. A premix for transparent solid cosmetics comprising an amino acid-based gelling agent, a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with 3 or more carbon atoms, and a solvent.

13. The premix for transparent solid cosmetic according to claim 12, wherein the solvent is a fatty acid having 3 to 22 carbon atoms and / or an alcohol having 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

14. A premix for transparent solid cosmetics comprising an amino acid-based gelling agent, a fatty acid ester having a hydrocarbon side chain with 3 or more carbon atoms, a fatty acid with 3 to 22 carbon atoms and / or an alcohol with 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

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