Multi-comb warp knitted fabric with random cutting performance and production method thereof

Abstract

The present invention discloses a multi-comb warp knitted fabric with the capability of being cut at will and a production method thereof. The multi-comb warp knitted fabric has high elasticity in both the warp and weft directions and has the anti-unraveling performance that meets the requirements of clothing. The problem of traditional multi-comb warp knitted fabrics that the elasticity in the weft direction is low and the fabric is easily unraveled in the reverse weaving direction in the warp direction under the action of external forces is solved, thereby increasing the application breadth of the multi-comb warp knitted fabric and improving the performance of the product.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the field of textile fabrics, and in particular relates to a multi-comb warp knitted fabric with random cutting performance and a production method thereof. Background Art

[0002] The definition of free-cut products is: a kind of fabric made of chemical fiber and elastic yarn, with high elastic effect on four sides, and self-locking edges. The product has the characteristics of no loose edges, can be cut at will, and no need to sew edges. Free-cut fabrics free clothes from the constraints of edge marks, and provide a free, comfortable and unrestrained wearing experience.

[0003] Currently, the most commonly used fabrics for random cutting are weft knitted fabrics. The random cutting of multi-comb warp knitted fabrics is mainly affected by the insufficient elasticity in the weft direction. The conventional multi-comb warp knitted fabrics have a weft elasticity of only about 30%, which is a huge gap from the high requirement of more than 80% elasticity on all four sides of the random cutting fabrics. In addition, it is difficult to achieve a good anti-unraveling effect, which is also an important factor limiting the development of random cutting products.

[0004] How to make the multi-comb warp knitted fabric, which is light and transparent and has an elegant and mysterious artistic effect, have the function of being cut at will will be a major innovation, which will greatly enhance the application breadth of multi-comb warp knitted fabric.

[0005] Due to the improvement of production technology, certain regional problems in composite yarn production have been solved one by one, creating the possibility for the development of multi-comb warp knitted fabrics in the direction of random cutting. In addition, the improvement of weaving and process levels of multi-comb warp knitting products has created good conditions for the research and development of products in the direction of random cutting by multi-comb raschel warp knitting machines.

[0006] Some technologies have emerged in the market to solve the four-sided elasticity or anti-dispersion performance:

[0007]

[0008]

[0009] It can be seen from the above table that after adding the anti-loosening function, the elasticity will be limited, or the elasticity will be reduced, which cannot meet the requirements of high elasticity on all four sides. Summary of the invention

[0010] The first purpose of the present invention is to provide a multi-comb warp knitted fabric with free-cutting performance, which can make the free-cut fabric have the light, transparent, elegant and mysterious artistic effects of multi-comb warp knitted fabric products to meet the needs of new types of products.

[0011] The second object of the present invention is to provide a Figure 1The specific production method of the multi-bar warp knitted fabric with random cutting performance shown can realize product weaving on a multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine, and realize the random cutting function of the fabric in combination with post-finishing.

[0012] To achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the present invention provides the following technical solutions: a multi-comb warp knitted fabric with arbitrary cutting performance, the multi-comb warp knitted fabric is woven by a multi-comb Raschel warp knitting machine; the finished product warp density of the multi-comb warp knitted fabric is more than 24 horizontal rows / cm, and the weft density is more than 10 wales / cm; the multi-comb warp knitted fabric includes a ground mesh layer and a pattern yarn layer; the ground mesh layer adopts a double-drawn mesh structure; the ground mesh yarn used in the ground mesh layer includes a looped ground yarn, a weft-inserted jacquard yarn, and a weft-inserted spandex yarn, the looped ground yarn adopts a hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn adopts a common spandex core-spun yarn, and the weft-inserted spandex yarn adopts a spandex yarn.

[0013] Furthermore, the hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn includes a core yarn part and an outer covering yarn part, the core yarn part is composed of hot-melt spandex, or the outer layer is hot-melt spandex and the core layer is ordinary spandex, or hot-melt spandex and ordinary spandex are twisted together.

[0014] Furthermore, the number of fancy yarn combing bars of the multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine is greater than 24, and the machine density is greater than 12 horizontal rows / cm.

[0015] A method for producing a multi-comb warp knitted fabric with random cutting performance comprises the following steps:

[0016] S1. Selection of warp knitting machine: Select the weft insertion machine of the multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine as the weaving machine;

[0017] S2. Selection of ground mesh materials: The looped ground yarn is made of hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn with a linear density of less than or equal to 70D, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn is made of ordinary spandex core-spun yarn with a linear density of less than or equal to 70D, and the weft-inserted spandex yarn is made of spandex yarn with a linear density of less than or equal to 280D;

[0018] S3. Yarn threading of warp knitting machines: the looping ground yarn comb adopts full threading, the weft inserting jacquard comb adopts full threading, the weft inserting spandex comb adopts one empty and one threading, and the pattern comb selectively threads the yarn according to the process. The looping ground yarn comb adopts the full machine number configuration, the weft inserting jacquard comb adopts the half machine number configuration, and the weft inserting spandex comb adopts the full machine number configuration;

[0019] S4. Needle movement: the looping ground yarn comb adopts a straight chain structure or a variable straight chain structure, the weft-inserted jacquard comb adopts a double-stretched mesh structure, and the weft-inserted spandex comb also adopts a double-stretched mesh structure; the pattern comb performs motion weaving according to the needle movement requirements set by the process;

[0020] S5. Zero position selection: select the standard pattern width zero position that has been equipped according to the actual situation to reduce the amount of needles installed;

[0021] S6. Selection of pattern yarn: Select the corresponding raw materials according to the characteristics of the pattern;

[0022] S7. Machine parameters: Machine density is more than 12 rows / cm, finished product warp density is more than 24 rows / cm, weft density is more than 10 wales / cm, warp let-off of looped ground yarn is 1100-1700mm / Rack, warp let-off of weft-inserted jacquard yarn is 400-750mm / Rack, and warp let-off of weft-inserted spandex yarn is 200-300mm / Rack;

[0023] S8. Finishing: adopt the method of degreasing-presetting-dyeing-resetting, the presetting temperature is 190-198 degrees, the presetting time is 40-55 seconds, the resetting temperature is 160-180 degrees, and the resetting time is 40-50 seconds.

[0024] Furthermore, the weft insertion machine model in the multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine in step S1 is a weaving machine equipped with 1 looping ground yarn comb, 1 set of weft insertion jacquard comb, 2 weft insertion spandex combs and more than 24 weft insertion fancy combs.

[0025] Furthermore, the knitting machine in step S1 is configured with a gauge of 18-28E.

[0026] Furthermore, in step S4, when the looped ground yarn is combed to a straight-woven chain structure, the padding yarn digital number is 0-1 / 1-0 / / or 1-0 / 0-1 / / , and when the looped ground yarn is combed to a changed straight-woven chain structure, the padding yarn digital number is 1-0 / 0-1 / 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-1 / 1-2 / / .

[0027] Furthermore, the weft-inserted jacquard comb in step S4 includes jacquard 1 and jacquard 2, and the inlay yarn digital number of jacquard 1 when it is in a double-pull mesh structure is 0-0 / 2-2 / / , and the inlay yarn digital number of jacquard 2 when it is in a double-pull mesh structure is 2-2 / 0-0 / / ; the weft-inserted spandex comb includes spandex 1 and spandex 2, and the inlay yarn digital number of spandex 1 when it is in a double-pull mesh structure is 0-0 / 1-1 / / , and the inlay yarn digital number of spandex 2 when it is in a double-pull mesh structure is 1-1 / 0-0 / / .

[0028] Furthermore, the pattern width zero position in step S5 is a self-defined standard pattern width zero position.

[0029] Furthermore, there is a step between step S7 and step S8: evaluating the product and trial weaving the pattern before production.

[0030] The benefit effect of the present invention is: different from the prior art, the present invention discloses a multi-comb warp knitted fabric with the ability to be cut at will and a method for producing the fabric. The fabric is mainly used in fashion clothing, and the product has a relatively good touch and good skin-friendliness. The product has the gorgeous appearance and complex patterns of the multi-comb warp knitted fabric, and at the same time has the casualness and comfort of the product that can be cut at will. It also blurs the boundaries between fabrics to a certain extent, broadening the breadth of the multi-comb warp knitted fabric. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0031] Figure 1 It is a schematic diagram of the interaction of the ground grid structure of the present invention;

[0032] Figure 2 It is a digital schematic diagram of the ground mesh organization yarn of the present invention;

[0033] Figure 3 It is a schematic diagram of the threading method of the ground network organization of the present invention;

[0034] Figure 4 This is a bar arrangement diagram of a weft-insertion multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine used in the present invention;

[0035] Figure 5 Schematic diagram of the core-spun yarn structure used in the present invention;

[0036] Figure 6 This is a table of examples of using the weft-insertion yarn of the present invention;

[0037] Figure 7 is a table of examples of fabric elasticity test reports of the present invention;

[0038] Figure 8 This is a test example table of the fabric appearance quality evaluation report after washing of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0039] The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

[0040] See also Figures 1 to 8 The present invention provides an embodiment: a multi-comb warp knitted fabric with random cutting performance, specifically as follows Figure 1 As shown, the multi-comb warp knitted fabric is woven by a multi-comb Raschel warp knitting machine; the finished product of the multi-comb warp knitted fabric has a warp density of more than 24 horizontal rows / cm and a weft density of more than 10 vertical rows / cm; the multi-comb warp knitted fabric includes a ground mesh layer and a pattern yarn layer; the ground mesh layer adopts a double-stretching mesh structure, and the multi-comb Raschel warp knitting machine has a set of weft-inserted spandex combs, a set of weft-inserted spandex combs includes spandex 1 and spandex 2, and two weft-inserted jacquard combs, and the two weft-inserted jacquard combs include jacquard 1 and jacquard 2; the needle movement of the double-stretching mesh structure of the ground mesh is as shown in FIG. Figure 2, wherein spandex 1 and spandex 2 are moved in opposite directions, and jacquard 1 and jacquard 2 are moved in opposite directions, forming a structure of a double-stretched mesh, such as Figure 1 As shown, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3 are distributed at intervals, and the movement directions of any two weft-inserted jacquard yarns 2 and 3 are opposite, resulting in a pulling effect on the mesh; as shown in FIG. Figure 1 As shown, the weft-inserted spandex yarn 4 and the weft-inserted spandex yarn 5 are distributed at intervals, and the movement directions of any two weft-inserted spandex yarns 4 and 5 are opposite, causing a pulling effect on the mesh; the ground mesh yarns used in the ground mesh layer include looped ground yarn, weft-inserted jacquard yarn, and weft-inserted spandex yarn. The looped ground yarn is made of hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn, and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn is made of ordinary spandex core-spun yarn. The core yarn of the ordinary spandex core-spun yarn is made of spandex. Spandex is the abbreviation of polyurethane fiber. The melting temperature of the spandex is 23 0-250 degrees Celsius, the finishing setting temperature of the spandex is much lower than this temperature, and the spandex will not be melted during the finishing process, but the softening temperature of the spandex is 175-220 degrees Celsius, this temperature can make the spandex soften and change its shape relatively easily, and the shape is relatively fixed when the temperature drops, achieving a setting effect. The weft-inserted spandex yarn adopts spandex yarn, and the spandex yarn adopts spandex material. The melting temperature of the spandex is 230-250 degrees Celsius, and the softening temperature is 175-220 degrees Celsius.

[0041] The hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn comprises a hot-melt spandex core yarn and a filament outer covering yarn. The hot-melt spandex core yarn is composed of hot-melt spandex, or has a structure in which the outer layer is hot-melt spandex and the core layer is common spandex, or is twisted together with hot-melt spandex and common spandex. When it is pure hot-melt spandex, the hot-melt spandex can be completely melted when the ambient temperature exceeds the design temperature; when the outer layer is hot-melt spandex and the core layer is ordinary spandex, the melting temperature of the ordinary spandex is 230-250 degrees Celsius, and the softening temperature of the ordinary spandex is 175-220 degrees Celsius. In this structure, when the ambient temperature exceeds the design temperature, only the surface hot-melt spandex part is heated and melted, and the shape is reorganized or adhered, and the ordinary spandex in the core layer is retained; or when hot-melt spandex and ordinary spandex are twisted together, when the ambient temperature exceeds the design temperature, the single yarn of the hot-melt spandex part melts and covers the surface of the ordinary spandex, and the outer yarn of part of the hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn adheres or adheres to other yarns. When the coil is adhered, the coil will not slip off easily. The hot-melt spandex material in the core yarn of the hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn has a melting temperature of 90-150 degrees Celsius, and the finishing temperature of spandex is much higher than this temperature. Ordinary spandex will not be melted during the finishing process, but the hot-melt spandex will be partially melted, which can realize the transformation between liquid and solid states, thereby achieving the purpose of melt bonding.

[0042] The number of the fancy yarn combing bars of the multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine is greater than 24, and the set machine density is greater than 12 rows / cm.

[0043] The multi-comb warp knitted fabric has 100-150% elasticity in the warp direction and more than 80% elasticity in the weft direction. It has high elasticity in both the warp and weft directions and has anti-unraveling performance that meets the requirements of clothing. Its anti-unraveling performance means that it can meet the anti-unraveling requirements of clothing fabrics during normal sewing, washing, and wearing. The high elasticity in the warp and weft directions is measured according to the Martha test standard LTD03 method and meets the standard of bidirectional high-elastic fabrics. The fabric can be cut at will on the multi-comb Raschel warp knitting machine.

[0044] See also Figures 1 to 8 The present invention provides another embodiment: a method for producing a multi-comb warp knitted fabric with random cutting performance, comprising the following steps:

[0045] S1. Selection of warp knitting machine: Select the weft inserting machine in the multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine as the weaving machine; Figure 4 The weft-insertion multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine structure shown produces weft-insertion products, which have the characteristics of smooth surface, thinness and ease of care.

[0046] S2. Selection of ground mesh materials: The looped ground yarn uses hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn with a linear density of less than or equal to 70D. The hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn can play a major role in the anti-unraveling function of the fabric in the finished product. The weft-inserted jacquard yarn uses ordinary spandex core-spun yarn with a linear density of less than or equal to 70D. The ordinary spandex core-spun yarn can provide a good guarantee for the weft elasticity in the finished product and play a certain auxiliary role in the anti-unraveling function of the fabric. The weft-inserted spandex yarn uses spandex yarn with a linear density of less than or equal to 280D. The spandex braid provides sufficient longitudinal shrinkage, provides a prerequisite for the realization of longitudinal elasticity, and provides a guarantee for the wearing comfort of the fabric;

[0047] S3. Yarn threading of warp knitting machines: the looping ground yarn comb adopts full threading, the weft inserting jacquard comb adopts full threading, the weft inserting spandex comb adopts one empty and one threading, and the pattern comb selectively threads the yarn according to the process. The looping ground yarn comb adopts the full machine number configuration, the weft inserting jacquard comb adopts the half machine number configuration, and the weft inserting spandex comb adopts the full machine number configuration;

[0048] S4. Needle movement: the looping yarn comb adopts a straight chain structure or a variable straight chain structure, the weft inserting jacquard comb adopts a double-pull mesh structure, and the weft inserting spandex comb also adopts a double-pull mesh structure; the pattern comb performs motion weaving according to the needle movement requirements set by the process, such as Figure 2 As shown;

[0049] S5. Selection of zero position: standard pattern width zero position is equipped according to actual conditions to reduce the amount of needles. Due to the limitation of product width during design, pattern width zero position is equipped according to actual conditions. In order to speed up the pattern change, pattern width zero position is standardized to reduce the amount of needles. The smaller the flower, the more cycles, the more pattern needles are installed on the machine, and the richer and more complex the pattern is. Therefore, the style and scope of use of the fabric are determined at the beginning of the design, and the use of the fabric is planned in advance in a more targeted manner, making the product more distinctive and applicable.

[0050] S6. Selection of pattern yarn: Select the corresponding raw materials according to the characteristics of the pattern, which is determined by the design and process according to the style and combined with the machine weaving conditions;

[0051] S7. Machine parameters: Machine density is more than 12 rows / cm, finished product warp density is more than 24 rows / cm, weft density is more than 10 wales / cm, warp let-off of looped ground yarn is 1100-1700mm / Rack, warp let-off of weft-inserted jacquard yarn is 400-750mm / Rack, warp let-off of weft-inserted spandex yarn is 200-300mm / Rack, warp let-off of ground mesh yarn is affected by machine density, type and distribution of pattern yarn, mesh size of ground mesh, etc. Each fabric pattern has different machine parameters;

[0052] S9. Finishing: The method of degreasing-presetting-dyeing-resetting is adopted. The presetting temperature is 190-198 degrees, the presetting time is 40-55 seconds, and the resetting temperature is 160-180 degrees, and the resetting time is 40-50 seconds. The presetting and resetting parameters are related to the type, thickness, and position of the grey cloth. The dyeing parameters are related to the yarn material and the type of dye. The degreasing parameters are related to the oil content of the grey cloth and the type of degreasing agent. The purpose of finishing is to make the product have better shape retention, flatness, uniform color, and the deviation from the target color is within the allowable range. At the same time, the product has dimensional stability, impact resistance, pulling resistance, water washing resistance, and anti-shedding properties.

[0053] Please continue reading Figures 1 to 8 In another embodiment provided by the present invention: the weft insertion machine in the multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine in step S1 is a knitting machine equipped with 1 looping ground yarn comb, 1 set of weft insertion jacquard comb, 2 weft insertion spandex combs and more than 24 weft insertion fancy combs. Under normal circumstances, the more fancy yarn combs there are, the more complex the pattern of the woven product is and the higher the expressiveness is.

[0054] Please continue reading Figures 1 to 8 In another embodiment provided by the present invention: the knitting machine gauge in step S1 is 18-28E gauge configuration, wherein the gauge is preferably 18 gauge configuration, 24 gauge configuration, 28 gauge configuration, and the like.

[0055] Please continue reading Figures 1 to 8 In another embodiment provided by the present invention: in step S4, when the looped ground yarn is combed to a straight-woven chain structure, the padding yarn digital number is 0-1 / 1-0 / / or 1-0 / 0-1 / / , and when the looped ground yarn is combed to a changed straight-woven chain structure, the padding yarn digital number is 1-0 / 0-1 / 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-1 / 1-2 / / .

[0056] Please continue reading Figures 1 to 8 In another embodiment provided by the present invention: the weft insertion jacquard comb in step S4 includes jacquard 1 and jacquard 2, the two jacquard combs move in opposite directions and have a mesh structure, the jacquard 1 has a mesh structure with opposite yarns and the yarn padding digital number is 0-0 / 2-2 / / , and the jacquard 2 has a mesh structure with opposite yarns and the yarn padding digital number is 2-2 / 0-0 / / ; the weft insertion spandex comb includes spandex 1 and spandex 2, the two spandex combs also move in opposite directions and have a mesh structure with opposite yarns, the spandex 1 has a mesh structure with opposite yarns and the yarn padding digital number is 0-0 / 1-1 / / , and the spandex 2 has a mesh structure with opposite yarns and the yarn padding digital number is 1-1 / 0-0 / / , specifically Figure 2 shown.

[0057] Please continue reading Figures 1 to 8 In another embodiment provided by the present invention: the zero position of the width of the pattern in step S5 is a self-defined standard zero position of the width of the pattern. The zero position of the width of the pattern is standardized to reduce the amount of needles.

[0058] Please continue reading Figures 1 to 8 In another embodiment provided by the present invention, a step is further included between step S7 and step S8: evaluating the product and trial weaving the pattern before production. Through trial weaving and advance control, product deficiencies can be discovered as soon as possible and solved in a timely and low-cost manner.

[0059] Characteristics of ordinary multi-comb warp knitted fabrics:

[0060] 1. The patterns are rich and the patterns can be changed freely.

[0061] 2. The thickness and style of fabrics vary greatly, making it easy to implement design intentions.

[0062] 3. Warp elasticity is easy to achieve, and it is easy to achieve 40%-80% elasticity (the ratio at which a fabric of a specified width can be stretched under a specified force, specifically measured according to the Martha test standard LTD03 method). The weft elasticity is lacking and can only be achieved around 30%. If the weft elasticity is increased, it will be very difficult.

[0063] 4. Multi-comb warp knitted fabrics have a certain degree of shedding in the opposite weaving direction. Although the adjustment of the production parameters of the grey cloth and the subsequent dyeing and finishing can make the fabric have a certain degree of anti-shedding ability, it cannot fully meet the needs of free cutting.

[0064] 5. Multi-comb warp knitted fabrics have a wide design breadth and strong outward expansion capabilities, creating possibilities for special research and development of fabrics.

[0065] Based on the above characteristics, the present invention innovates in a targeted manner, proceeds from the research and development principle, and unifies the entire design, process, production, dyeing and finishing, packaging and other processes to achieve the production of new functional products.

[0066]

[0067] The above table explains:

[0068] A. Figure 1 As shown, H is the height of a complete loop of the ground yarn 1 loop in the finished product without external force, and H1 is the height of a complete loop of the ground yarn 1 loop in the stressed state, wherein the stressed state includes the height of a complete loop of the ground yarn 1 loop under tension when weaving on a multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine, and the height of a complete loop of the ground yarn 1 loop under tension when the finished product after weaving is tested for elasticity and anti-loosening. When designing the fabric, the coil height H1 on the multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine is greater than H to increase the elasticity of the fabric. The looped ground yarn 1 is a coil structure that is mutually interlaced (such as 0-1 / 1-0 / / in Figure 1). This structure can make the loop lengthen, the loop narrower, and the extension line shorter to cope with the increase of internal stress under the action of external force in the longitudinal direction of the fabric. Since the weft-inserted spandex yarn 4 and the weft-inserted spandex yarn 5 have high elasticity (more than 200%), they will be stretched under tension and change with the change of height H1. When the external force in the longitudinal direction is eliminated, the high elasticity of the spandex yarn is used to shrink the fabric in the warp direction, so that the fabric returns from the H1 height state to the H height state, and the loop arc of the loop yarn 1 becomes shorter and wider, and the extension line becomes longer, consuming the excess yarn in the longitudinal direction due to the height change, so that the fabric maintains a dynamic balance. Under the same type, the thicker the spandex, the greater the rebound force, but the greater the impact on the permeability of the mesh, so choose spandex of 280D and below to solve the elasticity and modulus problems of the fabric while ensuring the appearance of the mesh.

[0069] B. Figure 1 As shown, the looped ground yarn 1 uses a hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn with a linear density of less than or equal to 70D. The structure of the hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn is as follows: Figure 5As shown, it is divided into core yarn 6 and outer yarn 7. Core yarn 6 is hot-melt spandex, and outer yarn 7 is filament. Since the elasticity of hot-melt spandex is much greater than that of filament, the elasticity of filament determines the elasticity of the entire hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn. The elasticity of filament is 20-50%. In addition, the coil structure formed by the looped ground yarn 1, under the action of the warp force, the arc will become smaller and the extension line will become longer, so that the coil state is close to the state on the multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine. The coil is stretched and thinned, so that H1 is much larger than H. Combining the above two factors, it can provide an elasticity value significantly greater than 100-150% in the warp direction. In addition, the hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn with a linear density of less than or equal to 70D is used for the clarity and transparency of the ground net. The thicker the yarn, the greater the influence of the connecting yarn on the mesh, and the more blurred the mesh.

[0070] C. Figure 1 As shown, W is the width of a ground mesh loop coil of the finished product without external force, and W1 is the width of a ground mesh loop coil under stress, wherein the situation under stress includes the width of a ground mesh loop coil under tension when weaving on a multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine, the width of a ground mesh loop coil under tension when the finished product after weaving is tested for elasticity and anti-loosening, etc. The weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3 are connecting yarns between the coils woven by the looped ground yarn 1, and a whole piece of cloth is formed through the connection between the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3. The size of W1 on the multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine is larger than W, and the yarn is in a taut state, which provides conditions for the emergence of weft elasticity. The combination state of the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3 directly determines the thickness and eyelet state of the finished product. The weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3 are driven by the jacquard comb on the multi-comb jacquard warp knitting machine. The function of the jacquard comb is to make the jacquard comb move on the basis of the movement of the entire jacquard comb bar. Figure 1 The single weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3 can move independently, and the following three states appear: winding only on the looped ground yarn 1, winding on two looped ground yarns 1 ( Figure 1 The winding state) is wound on three looped yarns 1, and the comprehensive coordination will form a structure of holes, points and surfaces.

[0071] The factors that determine the weft elasticity are as follows:

[0072] 1. As Figure 1 The elasticity of the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3. The greater the elasticity of the yarn, the greater the extensibility it will provide in the weft direction. Here, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3 are ordinary spandex core-spun yarns with a linear density of less than or equal to 70D, such as Figure 5As shown, the core yarn 6 is made of elastic spandex, and the outer yarn 7 is high elastic yarn. Since the elasticity of spandex is much greater than that of high elastic yarn, the elasticity of high elastic yarn determines the elasticity of the entire common spandex core-spun yarn. The elasticity of high elastic yarn is 100-150%, so it can provide an elasticity value slightly less than 100-150% in the weft direction. In addition, the common spandex core-spun yarn with a linear density of less than or equal to 70D is used for the clarity and transparency of the ground mesh. The thicker the yarn, the greater the influence of the connecting yarn on the mesh, and the more blurred the mesh.

[0073] 2. If Figure 1 The length of the extension line of the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3 at the connection with the looped ground yarn 1 can affect the weft elasticity. Under the action of the weft force, the extension line of the fabric is stretched, resulting in a smaller loop of the looped ground yarn 1 and yarn transfer. If the looped ground yarn 1 itself has a relatively large elasticity or a relatively large loop, the length pulled out is relatively large, which is manifested in a longer draft length in the weft direction, and thus a relatively large elasticity value.

[0074] 3. Such as Figure 1 In the looped ground yarn 1, the higher the height of the loop, the greater the total amount of yarn in the loop part, and the longer the length of the extended line that can be pulled out by the external force of the weft jacquard yarn 2 and the weft jacquard yarn 3. Therefore, the smaller the density of the warp cycle, the longer the loop, the longer the total length, and the greater the weft elasticity of the fabric.

[0075] D. Figure 1 The looped yarn 1 in A, where H and H1 have the same meaning as in A, is woven into a coil, and the finished coil cycle height is, and the coil cycle height on the multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine is H1, so the warp density of the fabric (the number of coil cycles per centimeter) can be obtained. In the present invention, the warp density of the finished product is more than 24 horizontal rows / cm, the weft density is more than 10 longitudinal rows / cm, and the machine density is more than 12 horizontal rows / cm. After dyeing and finishing, the fabric will have a small loss of elasticity, but under the action of external force, the coil height of the fabric can reach H1 relatively close, so that the warp elasticity can reach (H1-H) / H*100% relatively close, and the weft elasticity has been described in detail in C.

[0076] E. Figure 1The looped ground yarn 1 in the yarn is a hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn with a linear density of less than or equal to 70D. There are three types of hot-melt spandex in the core yarn of this type of core-spun yarn: the first is pure hot-melt spandex, and the hot-melt spandex can be completely melted when the ambient temperature exceeds the design temperature; the second is a skin-core structure, with the outer layer being hot-melt spandex and the core layer being ordinary spandex. When the ambient temperature exceeds the design temperature, only the hot-melt spandex part of the surface layer is heated and melted, reshaped or adhered, and the ordinary spandex of the core layer is retained; the third is a parallel yarn structure, in which the hot-melt spandex and ordinary spandex are combined together as the core yarn of the hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn. When the ambient temperature exceeds the design temperature, the single yarn of the hot-melt spandex part melts and covers the surface of the ordinary spandex, and partially adheres to the outer yarn of the hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn or adheres to other yarns (such as Figure 1 The weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and the weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3 shown in the figure are adhered to some intersections of other fancy yarns). The above-mentioned hot-melt spandex component, when heated, becomes a molten state. The liquid state is affected by surface tension and will gather at the intersection of the yarns or the yarn concentration. When the ambient temperature is lower than the design temperature, it will become an elastic solid state again. After this recombination, there will be two gain effects: first, due to the existence of adhesion, there will be adhesion nodes between the yarns, which will play a role in preventing the yarn from sliding, so that the coil will not slip off, which is equivalent to locking the coil, thereby realizing the function of anti-loosening; second, the yarns of the hot-melt part gather at the yarn concentration. Although no adhesion nodes will be formed between the yarns, they will play a role in stabilizing the shape of the accumulated part of the yarn and produce shape memory. This memory requires a certain amount of force to destroy. Since this accumulation position is realized by elastic hot-melt yarn, it has the elasticity of spandex. It will return to its original state after the external force disappears, and the memory shape continues to work. The fabric also has the corresponding ability to resist change, and also has anti-loosening performance. Of course, these two gain effects will reduce the anti-unraveling ability in extreme cases. For example, when the external force is large enough to exhaust the extension performance of the yarn and the coil, the adhesion nodes and shape memory formed by the melted hot melt will be destroyed when the coil structure and the yarn structure are destroyed, and the anti-unraveling performance will be reduced. However, this destruction will not eliminate the molten attachment points from the yarn, but will form uneven nodes on the yarn. Such nodes will increase the friction between the yarns, especially for the ground mesh structure based on the coil as the basic unit. Such friction will increase the difficulty of the looped ground yarn 1 to escape from the coil, or cause abnormal unraveling during the unraveling process, locking the coil in reverse knots, thereby having a certain anti-unraveling ability.

[0077] F. Figure 1In the weft-inserted jacquard, ordinary spandex core-spun yarn with a linear density of less than or equal to 70D is used. Since the core yarn of this yarn is ordinary spandex, spandex can provide elastic retraction, which provides guarantee for the elasticity in the weft direction. At the same time, the spandex retraction will allow the weft-inserted jacquard yarn to have a certain force to pull the extension line of the looped ground yarn 1, so that the loop of the looped ground yarn 1 will become tighter. After the coil structure is tight, the anti-unraveling performance of the coil will be significantly improved.

[0078] G. The use of the double-stretched mesh strengthens the tearing strength of the coil. In addition, the double-stretched mesh balances the internal stress of all parties, making the fabric more stable and reducing the inherent willingness to unravel, thereby reducing the unraveling performance to a certain extent. Of course, the use of the double-stretched mesh structure will increase production costs and require special machine configurations, process design technologies, and production technologies. These technologies will be discussed in detail as technical points in subsequent patents.

[0079] Embodiment 1:

[0080] The process includes the following steps:

[0081] S1. Selection of warp knitting machine: Multi-bar Raschel warp knitting weft insertion machine is selected as the weaving machine.

[0082] like Figure 4 The weft-insertion warp knitting machine structure shown in the figure produces weft-insertion products, which have the characteristics of smooth surface, thin and transparent, and easy to care for. The machine used in the present invention is the XGM84 / 1 (24E) multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine produced by Fujian Xingang Textile Machinery Co., Ltd. Figure 4 As shown, the configuration of the multi-bar raschel warp knitting is as follows from the front to the back of the machine:

[0083]

[0084]

[0085] Bar number range: This is a written expression of the distribution of bars, which is widely defined in various textbooks: GB means the base bar, which is numbered in the same way as the two weft-inserted spandex bars; PB represents the fancy yarn bar, which drives the fancy yarn to move according to the designed trajectory and is numbered from front to back and from left to right; JB is the code for the weft-inserted jacquard bar, which is also numbered in sequence. After numbering in this way, the design, process and production can be completely one-to-one corresponding, which improves work efficiency.

[0086] Working line: To prevent the confusion of multiple needles, the front, back, left and right range of movement of each needle on the corresponding comb bar is stipulated to avoid fighting with each other, thus improving the accuracy and regularity of the machine's operation. Each comb bar is driven by a corresponding unique motor, which pulls the comb bar to move back and forth, driving the yarn guide needle on the comb bar to move according to the instructions of the pattern file, thereby achieving the design purpose. This example has 1 ground comb, 80 pattern yarn combs, a set of jacquard combs (two independent weft-inserted jacquard combs), and 2 weft-inserted spandex combs. The abundant number of pattern yarn combs creates conditions for weaving complex patterns, making the patterns more expressive. A set of jacquard combs (two independent weft-inserted jacquard combs) and 2 weft-inserted spandex combs create conditions for opening and pulling mesh structures.

[0087] The multi-bar raschel warp knitting machine in this example has a machine gauge of 24E, which is suitable for products with relatively high knitting precision and is suitable for the production of most random-cut products.

[0088] S2. Selection of ground mesh materials: The thickness and mesh structure of the ground mesh materials determine the style of the fabric. The product in this example is designed to be a light and thin product, and the materials used are:

[0089] The looped ground yarn is made of hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn with a linear density of 30D, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn is made of ordinary spandex core-spun yarn with a linear density of 40D, and the weft-inserted spandex yarn is made of spandex yarn with a linear density of 70D.

[0090] like Figure 5 The core-spun yarn structure shown is composed of a core yarn 6 and an outer yarn 7. After composite processing, a core-spun yarn suitable for weaving is formed. When the core yarn 6 is made of hot-melt spandex, the outer yarn 7 is made of filaments. When the core yarn 6 is made of ordinary spandex, the outer yarn 7 is made of high-elastic yarn. The elasticity of the outer yarn itself plus the characteristics of the processing technology make the core-spun yarn have a relatively large extensibility, providing a guarantee for the high elasticity of the fabric. The composite process of the yarn includes but is not limited to machine-spun yarn and empty-spun yarn.

[0091] Ground mesh yarn, due to the large number of yarns, adopts a warp head to supply yarn. The yarn is warped into a warp head through the warping process, which can improve the uniformity of the yarn tension and thus improve the product quality.

[0092] The selection of the above yarns can not only create conditions for the fabric to have better elasticity in four directions, but also create conditions for the fabric to have the function of arbitrary cutting.

[0093] S3. Yarn threading of warp knitting machines:

[0094] The threading method of the present invention and the relative needle position of the comb bar at the initial zero position are as follows: Figure 3As shown, the looping ground yarn comb adopts full threading, the weft insert jacquard comb adopts full threading, and the weft insert jacquard comb adopts one empty and one threading method; among them, the looping ground yarn comb adopts the full machine number configuration, the weft insert jacquard comb adopts the half machine number configuration, and the weft insert spandex comb adopts the full machine number configuration. The weft insert jacquard combs include jacquard 1 and jacquard 2, and the weft insert spandex combs include spandex 1 and spandex 2. At the initial zero position of the comb bar, the relative positions from the left are: the first needle of the looping ground yarn comb, the first needle of the first weft insert jacquard comb, and the first needle of the second weft insert spandex comb are relative to each other, and the first needle of the second weft insert jacquard comb is relative to the second needle of the looping ground yarn comb. As shown Figure 3 When threading the yarn as shown, the yarn is combed in a circle, Jacquard 1 and Jacquard 2 are fully threaded, spandex 1 is threaded through the odd-numbered needle positions from the left, and spandex 2 is threaded through the even-numbered needle positions from the left.

[0095] The pattern comb selectively threads the yarn according to the process. The needles on the pattern yarn comb are divided into threaded and idle ones. The yarn is threaded as needed according to the special pattern yarn threading requirement table.

[0096] S4. Needle movement: the looping ground yarn comb adopts a straight chain structure or a modified straight chain structure, the weft-inserted jacquard comb adopts a double-stretched mesh structure, and the weft-inserted spandex comb also adopts a double-stretched mesh structure; Figure 2 As shown: the yarn inlay of the looping ground yarn comb is digital (0-1 / 1-0 / / ); the weft-inserting jacquard comb includes jacquard 1 and jacquard 2, the yarn inlay of jacquard 1 is digital (0-0 / 2-2 / / ), the yarn inlay of jacquard 2 is digital (2-2 / 0-0 / / ), the two jacquard combs move in opposite directions, and form a mesh structure; the weft-inserting spandex comb includes spandex 1 and spandex 2, the yarn inlay of spandex 1 is digital (0-0 / 1-1 / / ), the yarn inlay of spandex 2 is digital (1-1 / 0-0 / / ), the two spandex combs move in opposite directions, and form a mesh structure. The pattern comb moves and weaves according to the needle movement requirements set by the process;

[0097] S5. Selection of zero position: Due to the product width limitation during design, the zero position of the pattern width is configured according to the actual situation. In order to speed up the pattern change speed, the zero position of the pattern width is standardized to reduce the amount of needles installed; the smaller the flower, the more cycles, and the more pattern needles installed on the machine, the richer and more complex the pattern, so that the style and scope of use of the fabric are determined at the beginning of the design, and the use of the fabric is planned in advance in a more targeted manner, so that the product is more distinctive and applicable. The present invention adopts a 192-needle pattern yarn cycle zero position, a machine width of 134 inches, a total of 18 cycles, and can produce two 1.4-meter finished width products at one time.

[0098] S6. Selection of fancy yarn: Select the corresponding fancy yarn raw materials according to the characteristics of the pattern, which is determined by the style and machine weaving conditions during design and craftsmanship.

[0099] The present invention provides a thin, soft, and freely cut product. The thin and light design adopted in the design is described as follows based on the idea of ​​this example:

[0100]

[0101]

[0102] like Figure 6 As shown, the specific raw material usage of the present invention is as follows. According to the raw material configuration of each pattern comb, the corresponding yarn is hung on the multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine, and the corresponding yarn is passed through the yarn guide needle hole on the comb bar.

[0103] S7. Machine parameters: This example is determined to be a thin, soft, and randomly cut product. The designed warp density of the finished product is 32 rows / cm, and the weft density of the finished product is 11.2 wales / cm. It is produced using a 24E multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine with a machine density of 15.5 rows / cm. The warp let-off of the looped ground yarn is 1380mm / Rack; the warp let-off of the weft-inserted jacquard yarn (including weft-inserted jacquard yarn 2 and weft-inserted jacquard yarn 3) is 490mm / Rack; the warp let-off of the weft-inserted spandex yarn (including weft-inserted spandex yarn 3 and weft-inserted spandex yarn 5) is 220mm / Rack.

[0104] S8 pre-production sample evaluation and trial knitting of new patterns.

[0105] The products in this example have been tested and evaluated as follows:

[0106]

[0107] For trial weaving of new samples, the surface defects of the fabric are checked using the textile industry's four-point standard flat plate, with a pass rate of more than 95%.

[0108] The weaving efficiency reaches over 83%.

[0109] S9. Finishing: Degreasing-presetting-dyeing-resetting is adopted, the presetting temperature is 195 degrees, the presetting time is 55 seconds, the resetting temperature is 170 degrees, and the resetting time is 50 seconds. After dyeing and finishing, the finished fabric has good shape retention, flatness, good dimensional stability, impact resistance, pulling resistance, washing resistance, anti-shedding and other properties.

[0110] Degreasing-presetting-dyeing-resetting is a conventional textile finishing process, which is a process of improving the feel and appearance of fabrics, improving fabric quality and giving fabrics new functions through physical, chemical or physical and chemical methods. The purpose is to: stabilize the size and shape of fabrics; improve the appearance of clothing fabrics; improve the feel of clothing fabrics; and give fabrics special properties. The process of degreasing-presetting-dyeing-resetting is already clearly understood by technicians in this field, so other contents will not be described in detail here.

[0111] S10. Test the intrinsic quality of the finished product to determine whether the elasticity, anti-fragmentation, etc. of the product meet the requirements. After the post-finishing is completed, there is a necessary process to conduct necessary physical tests on the produced products. Only after the test is qualified can they be sold. The test items include the required test items and the items that must be strengthened according to the customer's requirements. The present invention has special control items: elasticity test items (warp and weft) and water washing and fragility test. Figure 7 The following is an example of fabric elasticity test of the present invention; according to the test requirements, the fabric samples are sampled and then tested. Figure 7 As shown, the test content is divided into weft test data and warp test data. The average value of weft elasticity test is 115.27%, and the average value of warp elasticity test is 163.62%, which meets the design requirements. Figure 8 This is a test example table of the fabric appearance quality evaluation report (anti-shedding) of the present invention. According to the test requirements, the fabric samples are sampled, washed, and then evaluated according to the rules. The evaluation is carried out item by item according to the corresponding sub-items. Figure 8 In the table, all sub-indicators are qualified, and the comprehensive indicators are also qualified, meeting the anti-dispersion requirements. Figure 7 and Figure 8 It can be seen that the physical properties of this product meet the requirements of randomly cut products. The data verify that the product of the present invention has excellent four-sided elasticity and good anti-unraveling function.

[0112] The gain effect of this example is: different from the existing technology, this weft-inserted multi-comb warp knitted fabric with free cutting performance is mainly used in fashion clothing and high-end home decoration products. The product has excellent four-way elasticity function and good anti-unraveling function, which solves the weft elasticity problem and reverse unraveling problem of weft-inserted multi-comb warp knitted fabric. It also blurs the boundaries between fabrics to a certain extent and broadens the breadth of multi-comb warp knitted fabrics.

[0113] The above description is only an implementation mode of the present invention, and does not limit the patent scope of the present invention. Any equivalent structure or equivalent process transformation made by using the contents of the present invention specification and drawings, or directly or indirectly applied in other related technical fields, are also included in the patent protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A multi-comb warp knitted fabric with the ability to be cut at will, characterized in that: The multi-comb warp knitted fabric is woven by a multi-comb Raschel warp knitting machine; the finished product of the multi-comb warp knitted fabric has a warp density of more than 24 horizontal rows / cm and a weft density of more than 10 wales / cm; the multi-comb warp knitted fabric includes a ground mesh layer and a pattern yarn layer; the ground mesh layer adopts a double-drawn mesh structure, and the ground mesh yarns used in the ground mesh layer include looped ground yarn, weft-inserted jacquard yarn, and weft-inserted spandex yarn, the looped ground yarn adopts hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn adopts ordinary spandex core-spun yarn, and the weft-inserted spandex yarn adopts spandex yarn; The hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn comprises a core yarn portion and an outer covering yarn portion, wherein the core yarn portion is composed of hot-melt spandex, or the outer layer is hot-melt spandex and the core layer is ordinary spandex, or the hot-melt spandex and ordinary spandex are twisted together; the production method of the multi-comb warp knitted fabric with random cutting performance comprises the following steps: S1. Selection of warp knitting machine: Select the weft inserting machine in the multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine as the weaving machine; S2. Selection of ground mesh materials: The looped ground yarn is made of hot-melt spandex core-spun yarn with a linear density of less than or equal to 70D, the weft-inserted jacquard yarn is made of ordinary spandex core-spun yarn with a linear density of less than or equal to 70D, and the weft-inserted spandex yarn is made of spandex yarn with a linear density of less than or equal to 280D; S3. Yarn threading of warp knitting machines: the looping ground yarn comb adopts full threading, the weft inserting jacquard comb adopts full threading, the pattern comb adopts selective threading according to the process, the weft inserting spandex comb adopts one empty and one threading, the looping ground yarn comb adopts full machine number configuration, the weft inserting jacquard comb adopts half machine number configuration, and the weft inserting spandex comb adopts full machine number configuration; S4. Needle movement: the looping ground yarn comb adopts a straight chain structure or a variable straight chain structure, the weft-inserted jacquard comb adopts a double-stretched mesh structure, and the weft-inserted spandex comb also adopts a double-stretched mesh structure; the pattern comb performs motion weaving according to the needle movement requirements set by the process; S5. Zero position selection: select the standard pattern width zero position that has been equipped according to the actual situation to reduce the amount of needles installed; S6. Selection of pattern yarn: Select the corresponding raw materials according to the characteristics of the pattern; S7. Machine parameters: Machine density is more than 12 rows / cm, finished product warp density is more than 24 rows / cm, weft density is more than 10 wales / cm, warp let-off of looped ground yarn is 1100-1700mm / Rack, warp let-off of weft-inserted jacquard yarn is 400-750mm / Rack, and warp let-off of weft-inserted spandex yarn is 200-300mm / Rack; S8. Finishing: Degreasing-presetting-dyeing-resetting method is adopted, the presetting temperature is 190-198 degrees, the presetting time is 40-55 seconds, the resetting temperature is 160-180 degrees, and the resetting time is 40-50 seconds; The weft insertion machine type in the multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine in step S1 is a weaving machine equipped with 1 looping ground yarn comb, 1 set of weft insertion jacquard comb, 2 weft insertion spandex combs and more than 24 weft insertion fancy combs; The weft-inserted jacquard comb in step S4 includes jacquard 1 and jacquard 2, and the inlay yarn number of jacquard 1 when it is in a double-pull mesh structure is 0-0 / 2-2 / / , and the inlay yarn number of jacquard 2 when it is in a double-pull mesh structure is 2-2 / 0-0 / / ; the weft-inserted spandex comb includes spandex 1 and spandex 2, and the inlay yarn number of spandex 1 when it is in a double-pull mesh structure is 0-0 / 1-1 / / , and the inlay yarn number of spandex 2 when it is in a double-pull mesh structure is 1-1 / 0-0 / / ; In step S4, when the looped ground yarn is combed to a straight-woven chain structure, the inlay yarn digital number is 0-1 / 1-0 / / or 1-0 / 0-1 / / , and when the looped ground yarn is combed to a changed straight-woven chain structure, the inlay yarn digital number is 1-0 / 0-1 / 1-0 / 1-2 / 2-1 / 1-2 / / .

2. A multi-comb warp knitted fabric with arbitrary cutting performance according to claim 1, characterized in that: The number of the fancy yarn combing bars of the multi-bar Raschel warp knitting machine is greater than 24, and the machine density is greater than 12 rows / cm.

3. The multi-comb warp knitted fabric with random cutting performance according to claim 1, characterized in that: The knitting machine gauge in step S1 is configured as 18-28E gauge.

4. The multi-comb warp knitted fabric with the ability to be cut at will according to claim 1, characterized in that: The pattern width zero position in step S5 is a self-defined standard pattern width zero position.

5. The multi-comb warp knitted fabric with random cutting performance according to claim 1, characterized in that: A step is also included between step S7 and step S8: evaluating the product and trial weaving the pattern before production.

Images