Production method of pure cotton plain woven natural elastic fabric

Abstract

The present application relates to the technical field of textile fabric, in particular to a production method of woven pure cotton warp and weft natural elastic fabric; comprising the following steps: design, weaving, singeing, woven loose desizing, first knitting and tentering, knitting loose mercerization, knitting drying, second knitting and tentering, and knitting preshrinking; the warp and weft yarns of the fabric are single yarn 30-50 English pure cotton yarn or strand 60-100 English pure cotton yarn, and the total tightness of the fabric is less than or equal to 80%; the theoretical elasticity of the warp and weft directions of the fabric is designed to be 8-12% and 15-18% respectively; the production equipment of woven and knitted fabric is combined to realize the production of woven pure cotton warp and weft elastic fabric without adding any chemical fiber, the warp elasticity of the fabric is 8-12%, the weft elasticity is 15-18%, the fabric has soft hand feeling, good resilience and stable size, and is 100% biodegradable.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of textile fabrics, in particular to a production method of a pure cotton plain natural elastic fabric. BACKGROUND

[0002] With the improvement of people's living standards, comfortable, elastic and environmentally friendly clothing fabrics are more favored by consumers. Pure cotton natural elastic fabric can have lasting natural elasticity without using any chemical fibers, reducing production costs, and being 100% biodegradable, which has a broad market space. However, in the prior art, the elastic range of conventional pure cotton natural elastic fabric is limited to the weft direction, and the warp direction has no elasticity, which has certain limitations. The plain fabric with warp and weft bidirectional elasticity generally needs to use cotton core or blend spandex yarn, elastic polyester fiber, polyamide fiber and other elastic chemical fibers to achieve, and the production process is complex; and such products contain part of chemical fibers, so the polyester feeling is relatively strong, and they cannot be biodegraded, which brings burden to the environment.

[0003] Patent CN201611014434.2 discloses a continuous production process of warp and weft double-elastic fabric, and the warp and weft directions are both pure cotton wrapped with polyolefin elastic fiber; patent CN201711408524.4 discloses a processing technology of high-ironing-resistant warp and weft double-elastic fabric, and the warp direction uses spandex elastic yarn and the weft yarn uses pure cotton; patent CN201611248830.1 discloses a production method of warp and weft double-elastic yarn-dyed non-iron fabric, and the warp and weft yarns both use cotton core yarn with spandex as the yarn core; Chinese patent CN201410689155.0 discloses a double-sided micro-elastic different-color fabric and a processing technology thereof, and the fabric is composed of two kinds of yarns, namely cotton and Tencel / PTT blended yarn. The above-mentioned warp and weft double-elastic fabric patents are all non-pure cotton products, and use spandex, polyolefin or polyester fiber which is difficult to degrade. Therefore, it is urgent to develop a plain fabric without using synthetic fibers which are difficult to degrade and with excellent natural elasticity in the warp and weft directions. SUMMARY

[0004] In view of the deficiencies of the prior art, the purpose of the present application is to provide a production method of a pure cotton plain warp and weft natural elastic fabric, which uses the production equipment of plain and knitted fabrics to cooperate with each other and work together to realize the production of pure cotton plain warp and weft natural elastic fabric without adding chemical fibers.

[0005] The production method of the pure cotton plain warp and weft natural elastic fabric according to the present application comprises the following steps:

[0006] Designing → plain fabric singeing → plain fabric loose desizing → first knitted fabric stretching → knitted fabric loose mercerizing → knitted fabric drying → second knitted fabric stretching → knitted fabric preshrinking.

[0007] Among them:

[0008] The warp and weft yarns of the fabric used in the design steps are all single yarns of 30-50 pure cotton yarns, or ply yarns of 60-100 pure cotton yarns, and the total tightness of the fabric is ≤80%; the theoretical elasticity of the fabric in the warp and weft directions is designed to be 8-12% and 15-18% respectively.

[0009] The woven singeing step adopts a direct burning burner, a forward and reverse singeing process, a flame intensity of 10-12 mbar, and a vehicle speed of 80-100 m / min.

[0010] The woven fabric loose desizing step is carried out on a woven fabric loose desizing machine using an enzyme desizing process; the machine speed is 40-50 m / min, the steamer temperature is 95-98°C, and the washing temperature is 90-95°C.

[0011] The first knitting tentering step comprises using a knitting tentering machine to stretch the wet fabric after woven loose desizing and washing to dry, and expanding the fabric width to 108-112% of the width after woven loose desizing; the machine speed is 45-55 m / min, the drying room temperature is 145-150° C., and the overfeed is 15-20%.

[0012] The knitted fabric is finished by using a loose mercerizing device for knitted fabrics, with a mercerizing alkali concentration of 18 to 22 Be, a machine speed of 30 to 35 m / min, and an upper needle overfeed of 8 to 10%. Mercerizing fully swells the cotton fibers, increases yarn buckling, and maximizes yarn shrinkage in warp and weft directions. Alkali removal washing is performed using 6 sets of rotary drum washing tanks with a tension set at 100 to 150 N to minimize the influence of warp tension on elasticity.

[0013] The knitted fabrics are dried in a knitted open-width crawler dryer at a speed of 45-55 m / min and a drying room temperature of 145-150°C.

[0014] The second knitting tentering step is a tentering step after the knitting drying step, and the fabric is dipped and rolled in a working liquid on a knitting tenter setting machine. The working liquid includes an organic silicone softener and a neutralizing acid with concentrations of 20-30 g / L and 1-3 g / L, respectively; the organic silicone softener is preferably SMI-60 produced by Shandong Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd., two dips and two rolls, and overfeeding is 15-20%.

[0015] The knitting preshrinking step is carried out on a knitting preshrinking machine at a speed of 30-40 m / min, an overfeed of 10-15%, a rubber blanket temperature of 115-120° C., and a wool blanket temperature of 100-105° C.

[0016] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0017] (1) The application adopts the way of combining the production equipment of woven and knitted fabrics to process pure cotton woven fabric, and utilizes the characteristics of large overfeed and small tension of the production equipment of knitted fabric to reduce the damage to the warp elasticity of pure cotton woven fabric.

[0018] (2) The application adds a step of knitted tentering between the steps of woven loose desizing and knitted loose mercerizing, expands the width of pure cotton woven fabric to 108-112% of the width after woven loose desizing, and aims to straighten the weft yarn and provide space for the bending and shrinkage of warp yarn.

[0019] (3) The application uses enzyme desizing process in the step of woven loose desizing, which is milder than the alkali desizing process commonly used for pure cotton fabric, causes less damage to the fiber, and protects the elasticity of the fiber to a greater extent.

[0020] (4) The production method of woven pure cotton warp and weft natural elastic fabric provided by the application realizes the production of woven pure cotton warp and weft elastic fabric without adding any chemical fiber, the fabric has a warp elasticity of 8-12%, a weft elasticity of 15-18%, a soft hand feeling, good resilience, and size stability, and is 100% biodegradable. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0021] All raw materials used in the examples are commercially available, except for special instructions.

[0022] The organic silicon softener used in the example is SMI-60 produced by Shandong Luru Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.,

[0023] The neutralizing acid is neutralizing acid NA produced by Shanghai Yayun Textile Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0024] Example 1

[0025] The production method of woven pure cotton warp and weft natural elastic fabric includes the following steps:

[0026] Design → Woven singeing → Woven loose desizing → First knitted tentering → Knitted loose mercerizing → Knitted drying → Second knitted tentering → Knitted preshrinking.

[0027] Among them:

[0028] The warp and weft yarns used in the design step are all single yarn 30 English pure cotton yarns, and the total tightness of the fabric is 80%; the theoretical elasticity of the warp and weft directions of the fabric is designed to be 8% and 15%, respectively.

[0029] The woven singeing step adopts one positive and one reverse singeing process with a straight burning port, and the flame intensity is 12 mbar and the speed is 80 m / min.

[0030] The weaving loose desizing step is carried out on a weaving loose desizing machine, and an enzyme desizing process is adopted; the speed is 40 m / min, the temperature of the steaming box is 98℃, and the water washing temperature is 95℃.

[0031] The first knitting stretching step is to dry the wet fabric after the weaving loose desizing and water washing by using a knitting stretching machine, and the fabric width is expanded to 112% of the width after the weaving loose desizing; the speed is 45 m / min, the temperature of the drying room is 150℃, and the overfeed is 20%.

[0032] The knitting loose mercerizing step is to use a loose mercerizing device for knitting fabric to finish, the mercerizing alkali concentration is 22Be, the speed is 30 m / min, the overfeed of the needle is 10%, the needle plate expands the width of the fabric after the alkali immersion, so that the cotton fibers are fully swollen, the yarn bending is increased, and the warp and weft yarns are maximally shrunk; the alkali removal water washing uses 6 groups of drum type washing tanks, the tension is set to 100 N, and the influence of the warp tension on the elasticity is maximally reduced.

[0033] The knitting drying step is to use a knitting flat-belt drying machine to dry, the speed is 45 m / min, and the temperature of the drying room is 150℃.

[0034] The second knitting stretching step is to stretch after the knitting drying step, and the fabric is immersed and padded with a working solution on a knitting stretching setting machine, the working solution includes a silicone softener SMI-60 and a neutralizing acid NA, and the concentrations are 30 g / L and 3 g / L respectively; two immersions and two pad-dings are adopted, and the overfeed is 15%.

[0035] The knitting preshrinking step is carried out on a knitting preshrinking machine, the speed is 30 m / min, the overfeed is 15%, the rubber blanket temperature is 120℃, and the nap blanket temperature is 105℃.

[0036] Example 2

[0037] The production method of the weaving pure cotton warp and weft natural elastic fabric includes the following steps:

[0038] Designing→weaving singeing→weaving loose desizing→first knitting stretching→knitting loose mercerizing→knitting drying→second knitting stretching→knitting preshrinking.

[0039] Among them:

[0040] In the designing step, the warp and weft yarns of the fabric are all single yarn 40 English pure cotton yarns, and the total tightness of the fabric is 64.1%; the theoretical elasticity of the warp and weft directions of the fabric is designed to be 12% and 18% respectively.

[0041] The weaving singeing step adopts a straight-burning flame port, and a one-positive-one-negative singeing process is adopted, the flame intensity is 10 mbar, and the speed is 90 m / min.

[0042] The weaving loose desizing step is carried out on a weaving loose desizing machine, and an enzyme desizing process is adopted; the speed is 45 m / min, the temperature of the steaming box is 95℃, and the water washing temperature is 90℃.

[0043] The first knitting stretching step is to dry the wet fabric after the weaving loose desizing and water washing by using a knitting stretching machine, and the width of the fabric is expanded to 108% of the width after the weaving loose desizing; the speed is 50 m / min, the temperature of the drying room is 145℃, and the overfeed is 15%.

[0044] The knitting loose mercerizing step is to use a loose mercerizing device for knitting fabric to finish, the mercerizing alkali concentration is 18Be, the speed is 35 m / min, the overfeed of the needle is 8%, the needle plate expands the width of the fabric after the alkali immersion, so that the cotton fibers are fully swollen, the yarn bending is increased, and the warp and weft yarns are maximally shrunk; the alkali removal water washing uses 6 groups of drum type washing tanks, the tension is set to 150N, and the influence of the warp tension on the elasticity is maximally reduced.

[0045] The knitting drying step is to use a knitting flat-belt drying machine to dry, the speed is 50 m / min, and the temperature of the drying room is 145℃.

[0046] The second knitting stretching step is to stretch after the knitting drying step, and the fabric is immersed and padded with a working solution on a knitting stretching setting machine, the working solution includes a silicone softener SMI-60 and a neutralizing acid NA, and the concentrations are 20 g / L and 2 g / L respectively; the fabric is immersed and padded twice, and the overfeed is 15%.

[0047] The knitting preshrinking step is carried out on a knitting preshrinking machine, the speed is 40 m / min, the overfeed is 10%, the rubber blanket temperature is 115℃, and the nap blanket temperature is 100℃.

[0048] Example 3

[0049] The production method of the weaving pure cotton warp and weft natural elastic fabric includes the following steps:

[0050] Designing→weaving singeing→weaving loose desizing→first knitting stretching→knitting loose mercerizing→knitting drying→second knitting stretching→knitting preshrinking.

[0051] Among them:

[0052] In the designing step, the warp and weft yarns of the fabric are all 100 English pure cotton strands, and the total tightness of the fabric is 76.9%; the theoretical elasticity of the warp and weft directions of the fabric is designed to be 10% and 16% respectively.

[0053] In the weaving singeing step, a straight burning port is used, and a one-positive-one-negative singeing process is adopted, the flame intensity is 10 mbar, and the speed is 100 m / min.

[0054] The woven fabric loose desizing step is carried out on a woven fabric loose desizing machine using an enzyme desizing process; the machine speed is 50 m / min, the steamer temperature is 95° C., and the washing temperature is 90° C.

[0055] The first knitting tentering step is to use a knitting tentering machine to stretch the wet fabric after woven loose desizing and washing to dry, and expand the fabric width to 110% of the width after woven loose desizing; the speed is 55m / min, the drying room temperature is 145℃, and the overfeed is 20%.

[0056] The knitted loose mercerizing step is to use a loose mercerizing device for knitted fabrics for finishing, with a mercerizing alkali concentration of 18Be, a machine speed of 35m / min, an upper needle overfeed of 9%, and a needle plate that expands the width of the fabric after alkali immersion, so that the cotton fibers are fully swollen, the yarn buckling is increased, and the warp and weft yarns are maximally shrunk; the de-alkali washing is carried out using 6 groups of rotary drum washing tanks with a tension set to 130N, so as to minimize the influence of the warp tension on the elasticity.

[0057] The knitted fabrics are dried in a knitted open-width crawler dryer at a speed of 55 m / min and a drying room temperature of 150°C.

[0058] The second knitting tentering step is tentering after the knitting drying step, and the fabric is dipped and rolled in a working liquid on a knitting tenter setting machine. The working liquid includes an organic silicone softener SMI-60 and a neutralizing acid NA with concentrations of 25g / L and 1g / L respectively; two dips and two rolls, with an overfeed of 20%.

[0059] The knitting preshrinking step is carried out on a knitting preshrinking machine at a speed of 35 m / min, an overfeed of 13%, a rubber blanket temperature of 115° C., and a wool blanket temperature of 100° C.

[0060] Example 4

[0061] The production method of woven pure cotton warp and weft natural stretch fabric comprises the following steps:

[0062] Design → Tatting singeing → Tatting loose desizing → First knitting tentering → Knitting loose mercerizing → Knitting drying → Second knitting tentering → Knitting pre-shrinkage.

[0063] in:

[0064] The warp and weft yarns of the fabric used in the design steps are all 60-ne cotton strands, and the total tightness of the fabric is 63.3%; the theoretical elasticity of the fabric in the warp and weft directions is designed to be 12% and 18% respectively.

[0065] The woven singeing step adopts a direct burning burner, a one-positive and one-negative singeing process, a flame intensity of 12 mbar, and a vehicle speed of 80 m / min.

[0066] The weaving loose desizing step is carried out on a weaving loose desizing machine, and an enzyme desizing process is adopted; the speed is 40 m / min, the temperature of the steaming box is 98℃, and the water washing temperature is 95℃.

[0067] The first knitting stretching step is to dry the wet fabric after the weaving loose desizing and water washing by using a knitting stretching machine, and the width of the fabric is expanded to 108% of the width after the weaving loose desizing; the speed is 45 m / min, the temperature of the drying room is 150℃, and the overfeed is 15%.

[0068] The knitting loose mercerizing step is to use a loose mercerizing device for knitting fabric to finish, the mercerizing alkali concentration is 20Be, the speed is 35 m / min, the overfeed of the needle is 9%, the needle plate expands the width of the fabric after the alkali immersion, so that the cotton fibers are fully swollen, the yarn bending is increased, and the warp and weft yarns are maximally shrunk; the alkali removal water washing uses 6 groups of drum type washing tanks, the tension is set to 150 N, and the influence of the warp tension on the elasticity is maximally reduced.

[0069] The knitting drying step is to use a knitting flat-belt drying machine to dry, the speed is 45 m / min, and the temperature of the drying room is 150℃.

[0070] The second knitting stretching step is to stretch after the knitting drying step, and the fabric is immersed and padded with a working solution on a knitting stretching setting machine, the working solution includes a silicone softener SMI-60 and a neutralizing acid NA, and the concentrations are 20 g / L and 3 g / L respectively; two immersions and two pad-dings are adopted, and the overfeed is 15%.

[0071] The knitting preshrinking step is carried out on a knitting preshrinking machine, the speed is 40 m / min, the overfeed is 10%, the rubber blanket temperature is 115℃, and the nap blanket temperature is 105℃.

[0072] Example 5

[0073] The production method of the weaving pure cotton warp and weft natural elastic fabric includes the following steps:

[0074] Designing→weaving singeing→weaving loose desizing→first knitting stretching→knitting loose mercerizing→knitting drying→second knitting stretching→knitting preshrinking.

[0075] Among them:

[0076] In the designing step, the warp and weft yarns of the fabric are both 80 English pure cotton strands, and the total tightness of the fabric is 70.6%; the theoretical elasticity of the warp and weft directions of the fabric is designed to be 10% and 16% respectively.

[0077] In the weaving singeing step, a straight burning port is used, and a one-positive-one-negative singeing process is adopted; the flame intensity is 12 mbar, and the speed is 90 m / min.

[0078] The weaving loose desizing step is carried out on a weaving loose desizing machine, and an enzyme desizing process is adopted; the speed is 45 m / min, the temperature of the steaming box is 98℃, and the water washing temperature is 90℃.

[0079] The first knitting stretching step is to dry the wet fabric after the weaving loose desizing and water washing by using a knitting stretching machine, and the fabric width is expanded to 112% of the width after the weaving loose desizing; the speed is 50 m / min, the temperature of the drying room is 145℃, and the overfeed is 18%.

[0080] The knitting loose mercerizing step is to use a loose mercerizing device for knitting fabric to finish, the mercerizing alkali concentration is 22Be, the speed is 30 m / min, the overfeed of the needle is 10%, the needle plate expands the width of the fabric after the alkali immersion, so that the cotton fibers are fully swollen, the yarn bending is increased, and the warp and weft yarns are maximally shrunk; the alkali removal water washing uses 6 groups of drum type washing tanks, the tension is set to 130N, and the influence of the warp tension on the elasticity is maximally reduced.

[0081] The knitting drying step is to use a knitting flat belt type drying machine to dry, the speed is 55 m / min, and the temperature of the drying room is 145℃.

[0082] The second knitting stretching step is to stretch after the knitting drying step, and the fabric is immersed and padded with a working solution on a knitting stretching setting machine, the working solution includes a silicone softener SMI-60 and a neutralizing acid NA, and the concentrations are 30 g / L and 2 g / L respectively; two immersions and two pad-dings are adopted, and the overfeed is 18%.

[0083] The knitting preshrinking step is carried out on a knitting preshrinking machine, the speed is 35 m / min, the overfeed is 13%, the rubber blanket temperature is 115℃, and the nap blanket temperature is 105℃.

[0084] Comparative Example

[0085] The conventional production method of the weaving pure cotton fabric includes the following steps:

[0086] Designing→singeing→desizing→mercerizing→stretching→preshrinking.

[0087] The above steps are all carried out on a weaving production device.

[0088] Among them:

[0089] The fabric warp and weft yarns used in the designing step are both single yarn 30 English pure cotton yarns, and the total tightness of the fabric is 80.0%; the theoretical elasticity of the fabric warp and weft directions is respectively designed to be 8% and 15%.

[0090] The singeing step adopts a straight burning flame, a one positive and one reverse singeing process, and the flame intensity is 12 mbar, and the speed is 80 m / min.

[0091] The desizing step adopts an enzyme desizing process; the speed is 40 m / min, the temperature of the steaming box is 98 DEG C, and the temperature of the washing is 95 DEG C.

[0092] The mercerizing step adopts a mercerizing alkali concentration of 22Be, a speed of 30 m / min, and 6 groups of water washing tanks for washing, with a tension setting of 100 N.

[0093] The drawing step is to dip the fabric in a drawing setting machine with a working solution, and the working solution includes a silicone softener SMI-60 and a neutralizing acid NA, with concentrations of 30 g / L and 3 g / L respectively; double dipping and double padding, with an overfeed of 15%.

[0094] The pre-shrinking step adopts a speed of 30 m / min, a rubber blanket temperature of 120 DEG C, and a nap blanket temperature of 105 DEG C.

[0095] Table 1: warp and weft elastic test data of examples 1-5 and comparative examples

[0096] Warp elasticity (%) Weft elasticity (%) Example 1 8.2 15.4 Example 2 11.8 18.0 Example 3 10.4 16.6 Example 4 12.0 17.6 Example 5 10.4 15.8 Comparative Example 1.8 15.4

[0097] The test method refers to ASTM D3107-2007, i.e., the test method for tensile properties of stretch yarn woven fabrics.

[0098] Table 2: warp and weft washing size change rate test data of examples 1-5 and comparative examples

[0099] Warp water washing dimensional change rate (%) Weft water washing dimensional change rate (%) Example 1 +0.6 -1.3 Example 2 -0.2 -1.3 Example 3 +0.6 -1.5 Example 4 -0.6 -1.2 Example 5 -0.2 -1.3 Comparative Example -1.0 -1.4

[0100] The test method refers to AATCC 135-2018t.

[0101] The production method of the woven pure cotton warp and weft natural elastic fabric provided by the application has good appearance effect, full hand feeling, excellent size stability and elasticity.

[0102] Of course, the above content is only the preferred embodiment of the application, and cannot be considered as limiting the scope of the embodiments of the application. The application is also not limited to the above examples, and the equivalent changes and improvements made by the ordinary skilled in the art within the essential scope of the application should be attributed to the patent coverage range of the application.

Claims

1. A method for producing a woven pure cotton warp and weft natural stretch fabric, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: Design → Tatting singeing → Tatting loose desizing → First knitting stentering → Knitting loose mercerizing → Knitting drying → Second knitting stentering → Knitting pre-shrinking; The woven fabric loose desizing step is carried out on a woven fabric loose desizing machine using an enzyme desizing process; the machine speed is 40-50 m / min, the steamer temperature is 95-98°C, and the washing temperature is 90-95°C; The first knitting tentering step comprises using a knitting tentering machine to stretch the wet fabric after woven loose desizing and washing to dry, and expanding the fabric width to 108-112% of the width after woven loose desizing; the machine speed is 45-55 m / min, the drying room temperature is 145-150° C., and the overfeed is 15-20%; The knitted fabrics are finished in a loose mercerizing device using knitted fabrics, with a mercerizing alkali concentration of 18 to 22 Be, a machine speed of 30 to 35 m / min, an upper needle overfeed of 8 to 10%, and alkali removal washing in a rotary drum washing tank with a tension setting of 100 to 150 N. The knitted fabrics are dried in a knitted open-width crawler dryer at a speed of 45-55 m / min and a drying room temperature of 145-150°C.

2. The method for producing a woven pure cotton warp and weft natural stretch fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The warp and weft yarns of the fabric used in the design steps are all single yarns of 30-50 pure cotton yarns, or ply yarns of 60-100 pure cotton yarns, and the total tightness of the fabric is ≤80%; the theoretical elasticity of the fabric in the warp and weft directions is designed to be 8-12% and 15-18% respectively.

3. The method for producing a woven pure cotton warp and weft natural stretch fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The woven singeing step adopts a direct burning burner, a flame intensity of 10-12 mbar, and a vehicle speed of 80-100 m / min.

4. The method for producing a woven pure cotton warp and weft natural stretch fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The second knitting tentering step is to dip the fabric into the working liquid on the knitting tentering setting machine; overfeeding is 15-20%.

5. The method for producing a woven pure cotton warp and weft natural stretch fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: The working fluid includes an organic silicon softener and a neutralizing acid, with concentrations of 20-30 g / L and 1-3 g / L respectively.

6. The method for producing a woven pure cotton warp and weft natural stretch fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The knitting preshrinking step is carried out on a knitting preshrinking machine at a speed of 30-40 m / min, an overfeed of 10-15%, a rubber blanket temperature of 115-120° C., and a wool blanket temperature of 100-105° C.