Composition with whitening and brightening effects, application and cosmetics

Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of daily chemicals, and discloses a composition with whitening and brightening effects, which comprises a whitening component, a component containing a plant cell culture or extract, and carnosine, the components containing the plant cell culture or extract comprise crithmum maritimum callus culture filtrate and leontopodium alpinum flower / leaf extract; the weight ratio of the crithmum maritimum callus culture filtrate to the leontopodium alpinum flower / leaf extract is (0.01-0.5): (0.01-5). The whitening component, the component containing the plant cell culture or extract and the carnosine are combined, so that the whitening effect and brightening effect of the whitening component can be improved, and the applicability of sensitive skin is improved. Meanwhile, the invention also provides application of the composition.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the field of daily chemicals, and in particular to a composition, application and cosmetics with whitening and brightening effects. Background Art

[0002] Due to the influence of UV rays, pollutants, stress and other factors in daily life, many people face the problem of dull and uneven skin tone.

[0003] The use of plant callus as an important ingredient in whitening formulas has been increasingly used.

[0004] The applicant BIO FD&C Co., Ltd. has earlier studied the use of extracts from alpine edelweiss plant cell cultures or extracts from alpine edelweiss adventitious root cultures in the manufacture of skin topical preparation compositions for skin whitening, pore contraction, skin wrinkle inhibition, sebum inhibition, acne inhibition, and skin barrier protection; the publication number is CN106924316B, and the subject is a skin topical preparation composition containing alpine edelweiss plant cell culture extracts and a method for manufacturing the same; it proves that the extracts from alpine edelweiss plant cell cultures or extracts from alpine edelweiss adventitious root cultures have antioxidant effects, collagen production increase effects, moisturizing effects, wrinkle improvement effects, anti-inflammatory effects, pore contraction effects, cortex inhibition effects, cell protection effects, anti-aging effects, barrier mechanisms, and tyrosinase inhibition effects;

[0005] The applicant BIO FD&C Co., Ltd. further proposed a patent application with the subject matter of a cosmetic composition for improving skin comprising a plant cell complex culture, with publication number CN111202708A, which records: a cosmetic composition for improving skin, comprising: alpine edelweiss cell culture or its extract; sea holly cell culture or its extract; sea fennel cell culture or its extract; apple cell culture or its extract; grape cell culture or its extract; desert rose cell culture or its extract; lavender cell culture or its extract; vitex negundo cell culture or its extract; lotus cell culture or its extract; myrrh cell culture or its extract; and jasmine cell culture or its extract as active ingredients; it further records that the above-mentioned composition is used for whitening the skin.

[0006] The applicant Guangdong Bawei Biotechnology Co., Ltd. has earlier studied the relevant applications of sea fennel callus culture. In its announcement number CN107456433B, the subject is a deep moisturizing preparation, which explains that the filtrate of sea fennel callus culture can increase skin gloss and elasticity, reduce the activity of tyrosinase, inhibit the synthesis of melanin, have a repairing effect, and can accelerate skin cell renewal and differentiation.

[0007] A large number of studies have confirmed the role of callus tissue in skin anti-oxidation, melanin inhibition, whitening, barrier repair, etc.

[0008] At the same time, the combined use of the above-mentioned callus tissue and whitening ingredients is also gradually being used, such as CN112315845A, a whitening and freckle-removing cream and a preparation method thereof discloses a composition for improving skin color including a skin color improving agent and a plant extract, the skin color improving agent is selected from one or more of niacinamide, tranexamic acid, glycyrrhizin, bifid yeast lysate fermentation product, and rice fermentation product filtrate, and the plant extract is selected from one or more of Magnolia sieboldii extract, mulberry root extract, kelp extract, and sea fennel callus culture filtrate.

[0009] In previous studies, we found that the rational use of callus tissue may further reduce the amount of whitening ingredients used. Reducing the amount of whitening ingredients used will improve the applicability of sensitive skin.

[0010] Therefore, the technical problem solved in this case is: how to develop a whitening formula with excellent whitening effect, brightening effect and mildness. Summary of the invention

[0011] One of the purposes of the present invention is to provide a composition with whitening and brightening effects. By using a combination of a whitening component, a component comprising a plant cell culture or an extract, and carnosine, the whitening effect and brightening effect of the whitening component can be improved, and the applicability to sensitive skin can be improved.

[0012] At the same time, the invention also provides applications based on the composition.

[0013] To achieve the above object, the present invention provides a composition with whitening and brightening effects, comprising a whitening component, a component comprising a plant cell culture or extract, and carnosine;

[0014] The components containing plant cell culture or extracts include sea fennel callus culture filtrate, alpine edelweiss flower / leaf extract;

[0015] The weight ratio of the sea fennel callus culture filtrate to the alpine edelweiss flower / leaf extract is 0.01-0.5:0.01-5.

[0016] In the present invention, the individual functions of the filtrate of the callus culture of sea fennel are: derived from a plant cell of Criste Marine (sea fennel) found on the coast of Brittany, obtained by plant harvest identification (sea fennel) - partial sterilization of plant sea fennel - separation of fragments of sea fennel (explant) - growth of undifferentiated cells on solid culture medium (callus) - proliferation in liquid culture medium - culture in liquid culture medium in sterile cell bags - separation of cells from culture medium - drying - grinding / sieving. It has the effects of improving epidermal regeneration and promoting repair of epidermal permeability barrier; inhibiting tyrosinase activity, reducing tyrosine, brightening skin tone and regulating pigmentation; increasing the number of basal and suprabasal cell layers, renewing skin, restoring skin elasticity and reducing wrinkles, and also has moisturizing effect.

[0017] The individual functions of the alpine edelweiss flower / leaf extract are: it is derived from a unique edelweiss variety - alpine edelweiss, contains high levels of edelweiss acid and flavonoids, has anti-glycation, strong antioxidant properties, protects the skin barrier, and maintains the balance of skin microorganisms.

[0018] The individual functions of carnosine are: Carnosine is a small molecule peptide that plays a significant role in anti-aging, anti-oxidation, and inhibiting lipid oxidation caused by free radicals and metal ions; it prevents glycation and inhibits lipid oxidation caused by free radicals and metal ions. By intervening in this action, organs are protected from potential damage. Carnosine can also act as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent to protect the skin from damage.

[0019] Traditional whitening components are mostly small molecules, such as niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and 4-butylresorcinol. It is undeniable that these substances have good whitening mechanisms, but their action channels are often single, and most of them improve the whitening effect by inhibiting melanin production and melanin deposition and transfer.

[0020] However, it is well known that the skin whitening pathway is not only related to the production, transfer and deposition of melanin, but also to many other pathways, such as the skin's anti-free radical ability, anti-glycation ability, barrier repair and even anti-inflammatory ability, as well as pigmentation caused by anti-inflammatory factors.

[0021] In the art, there are many different methods based on the above mechanism and small molecule whitening components to improve the whitening effect. The synergistic mechanism of improving the whitening effect after the combination of sea fennel callus culture filtrate, alpine edelweiss flower / leaf extract, carnosine and whitening components and the unique innovation of the present invention are that sea fennel callus culture filtrate and alpine edelweiss flower / leaf extract are selected as active ingredients for promoting cell proliferation, anti-oxidation, inhibiting tyrosinase activity, reducing tyrosine, and barrier repair, and alpine edelweiss flower / leaf extract and carnosine are used as anti-glycosylation, anti-oxidation, and anti-inflammatory active ingredients, and cooperate with traditional small molecule whitening components. The former cooperates with the whitening components from the bottom logic of skin whitening and repair, and the latter cooperates with the whitening components from the surface logic of skin's resistance to external influences and its own anti-oxidation and anti-glycosylation capabilities, combining inside and outside to effectively improve the whitening effect.

[0022] In the above composition, the weight ratio of the filtrate of the sea fennel callus culture to the flower / leaf extract of alpine edelweiss is 0.1-0.4:1-4.

[0023] In the above composition, the whitening component is one or more combinations of niacinamide, tranexamic acid and 4-butylresorcinol.

[0024] In the above composition, the whitening components are niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and 4-butylresorcinol; the weight ratio of niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and 4-butylresorcinol is 0.1-3:0.02-2:0.01-2.

[0025] In the above composition, the weight ratio of the whitening component, the component comprising plant cell culture or extract, and carnosine is 0.1-7:0.02-5.5:0.01-1.

[0026] In the above composition, the weight ratio of the white component, the component containing plant cell culture or extract, and carnosine is 0.2-5:1-5:0.1-1.

[0027] At the same time, the present invention also discloses the use of any of the above compositions in preparing cosmetics.

[0028] Finally, the present invention also discloses a cosmetic comprising any one of the above compositions.

[0029] In the above-mentioned cosmetics, the amount of the composition in the cosmetics is 0.05 to 15 wt%.

[0030] Beneficial Effects

[0031] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has at least the following advantages:

[0032] By using a combination of a whitening component, a component containing plant cell culture or extract, and carnosine, the whitening effect and brightening effect of the whitening component can be enhanced, and the applicability to sensitive skin can be improved. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0033] The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with the embodiments, but it does not constitute any limitation to the present invention. Any limited number of modifications made within the scope of the claims of the present invention are still within the scope of the claims of the present invention.

[0034] In order to explain the technical content of the present invention in detail, further description is given below in conjunction with the implementation modes.

[0035] Reagent Source

[0036] Sea fennel callus culture filtrate: SEPPIC SA, purity 100wt%;

[0037] Alpine edelweiss flower / leaf extract: DSM Vitamins (Shanghai) Co., Ltd., active ingredient content 7.5wt%;

[0038] Carnosine: Guangzhou Tinglan Biotechnology Co., Ltd., purity above 99wt%;

[0039] Nicotinamide: Guangzhou Ruizhiyou Co., Ltd., purity above 99wt%, niacin content less than 70ppm;

[0040] Tranexamic acid: Shanghai Puen Biochemical Technology Co., Ltd., purity above 99wt%;

[0041] 4-Butylresorcinol: KUMAR ORGANIC PRODUCTS (SINGAPORE) PTE LTD, purity above 99wt%.

[0042] The preparation method of the composition with whitening and brightening effects of the present invention is:

[0043] The filtrate of callus culture of sea fennel, flower / leaf extract of alpine edelweiss, carnosine, nicotinamide, tranexamic acid, 4-butylresorcinol and water are uniformly mixed to prepare a whitening composition with whitening and brightening effects.

[0044] Its formula can be found in Table 1;

[0045] Table 1 Formula Unit: g

[0046]

[0047] Performance Testing

[0048] Test item: Free radical (DPPH) scavenging experiment.

[0049] Test method: The test was carried out in accordance with the group standard of Shanghai Daily Chemical Industry Association, standard number: T / SHRH 006-2018; "Cosmetics-Free Radical (DPPH) Scavenging Test Method".

[0050] The smaller the absorbance, the better the free radical (DPPH) scavenging effect.

[0051] The test results can be seen in Table 2 below;

[0052] Table 2 Free radical scavenging experimental results

[0053]

[0054]

[0055] Result analysis:

[0056] 1. It can be seen from Examples 1 to 3 that with the increase of whitening components, components containing plant cell culture or extracts, and carnosine, the free radical scavenging ability is significantly increased.

[0057] 2. When the dosage of the whitening component, the component comprising plant cell culture or extract, and carnosine is adjusted within a reasonable range, the free radical scavenging ability thereof is relatively significant; from the results of Examples 3 to 6, it can be seen that the increase in the total amount of each component is positively correlated with the increase in the free radical scavenging ability.

[0058] 3. It can be seen from the results of Examples 7 to 9 and Example 1 that when the total amount of whitening components is the same, any lack of whitening components will reduce the free radical scavenging ability;

[0059] In terms of the functions of each component of the whitening ingredients, niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin, which not only has the effect of anti-darkness and whitening, but also has anti-inflammatory effects, which can reduce skin inflammation and sensitivity problems; tranexamic acid, as a classic whitening component, is also a typical free radical scavenger, which can neutralize oxidative substances in the body and protect cells from damage; 4-butylresorcinol, as a classic antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, moisturizing and whitening active ingredient, its free radical scavenging ability is also very significant.

[0060] The above three enhance and improve the free radical scavenging ability of the composition from different perspectives. From the results of Examples 7 to 9 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4, the importance of the functions of the components in the whitening component is equivalent to the importance of the components containing plant cell culture or extracts and carnosine.

[0061] It can be considered that the preference for whitening components among the components of the present invention can significantly improve the free radical scavenging ability of the formulation.

[0062] 4. In order to further explore whether the components comprising plant cell culture or extracts and carnosine have a universal synergistic ability for whitening components, on the basis of Examples 7 to 9, the components comprising plant cell culture or extracts and carnosine are further missing, such as Comparative Examples 5 to 7. It can be found through experiments that in the case of any missing of the components comprising plant cell culture or extracts and carnosine, the overall free radical scavenging ability is further reduced, but the improvement ability is for the improvement effect of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 and Example 1; therefore, combined with the conclusion of the third point above, it can be seen that the presence of the components comprising plant cell culture or extracts and carnosine has a clear effect on improving the efficacy of the whitening component.

[0063] 5. It can be seen from the comparison results of Example 3 with Comparative Examples 8 to 11 that they are consistent with the comparison results of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 with Example 1. The results of Example 3 and Comparative Examples 8 to 11 are quite different. The possible reason is that the dosage of each component is large. In the absence of each component, it will show a more obvious performance fluctuation.

[0064] Testing items: Whitening evaluation

[0065] Effect verification test example (example 1, comparative example 1, comparative example 2 sample trial whitening evaluation)

[0066] Testers: 30 healthy women (20-42 years old), divided into 3 groups, each group must have a similar average skin color score; each group has 10 people; each group uses the same formula product.

[0067] Test area: face (whole face use);

[0068] Use: Apply twice daily, morning and evening, for 4 weeks.

[0069] Test instrument: French C-Cube multifunctional skin imaging system.

[0070] Effect indicators: ITA degree, melanin. ITA degree represents the overall change in chromaticity. The larger the ITA° value, the lighter the skin color.

[0071] The classification method can be seen in Table 3;

[0072] Table 3 ITA degree classification table

[0073]

[0074]

[0075] Before the experiment started, the average value of each group was obtained; The average value of each group is after the product is tested for one month; the average value of melanin (before) is before the test, and the average value of melanin (after) is the average value of each group after the product is tested for one month.

[0076] The changes in ITA° values ​​and average melanin values ​​can be seen in Tables 4 and 5

[0077] Table 4 Test results of ITA° value

[0078]

[0079] Table 5 Test results of average melanin value

[0080] Sample set Melanin (after) Melanin (front) Example 1 24.84 32.15 Comparative Example 1 28.92 32.08 Comparative Example 2 30.13 32.21

[0081] The above human trial experimental results show that the whitening composition of the present invention has a good synergistic whitening effect, which is more significant than the composition lacking one or two raw material components.

[0082] Test items: safety test

[0083] 1. Number of testers: 30 in total, 6 males and 24 females; youngest age: 20 years old, oldest age: 46 years old; average age: 31.18±4.82 years old Volunteer selection criteria.

[0084] 2. Test method: Patch test was performed as in Example 2. A qualified patch tester was selected, and about 0.020-0.025 mL of the test substance was placed in the patch tester using a closed patch test method, and applied to the back of the subject with medical tape. The test substance was removed after 24 hours, and the skin reaction was observed at 0.5, 24, and 48 hours after the patch was removed, and the results were recorded according to the skin reaction grading standard in the "Safety Technical Specifications for Cosmetics" (2015 edition).

[0085] 3. The evaluation criteria are as shown in Table 6:

[0086] Table 6 Grading standards for adverse skin reactions

[0087]

[0088] The results showed that: the results of the human skin closed patch test showed that among 30 people 0 Example Positive According to the "Technical Specifications for Safety of Cosmetics" (2015 edition), the test substance has no effect on the subjects of this batch. Won't Causes adverse skin reactions.

[0089] Test items: stability test

[0090] 1. Stability test sample: product of Example 2.

[0091] 2. Test method: standard (1 month of light exposure, 3 months of high and low temperature test), higher than national standards and industry standards.

[0092] 3. The test results are shown in Table 7.

[0093] Table 7 Stability test results

[0094]

[0095]

[0096] The results show that the whitening composition of the present invention has good stability.

[0097] Application formula

[0098] The present invention provides a composition with whitening and brightening effects, which is made into a whitening essence, and the content of the raw material components is shown in the following Table 8.

[0099] Table 8 Whitening Essence (Unit: Mass %)

[0100] Serial number Element Whitening Essence 1 Whitening Essence 2 1 Deionized water 91.34 77.5 2 glycerin 2 2 3 EDTA-2NA 0.05 0.05 4 Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 0.05 0.05 5 Glycereth-26 1.5 1.5 6 Sodium Hyaluronate 0.1 0.1 7 Carbomer 0.3 0.3 8 Arginine 0.3 0.3 9 4-Butylresorcinol 0.01 1.5 10 Butanediol 3 3 11 p-Hydroxyacetophenone 0.4 0.4 12 1,2-Hexanediol 0.4 0.4 13 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 14 Niacinamide 0.1 3 15 Carnosine 0.01 1 16 Tranexamic acid 0.02 2 17 Crimson Fennel Callus Culture Filtrate 0.01 0.5 18 Leontopodium Alpinum Flower / Leaf Extract 0.01 5

[0101] The manufacturing process of the above whitening essence can be described as follows:

[0102] 1. Add deionized water to the water phase pot, stir and sprinkle carbomer evenly on the water surface, stir until it is completely dispersed, then pump it into the emulsification pot, add glycerin, EDTA-2NA, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium hyaluronate, heat to 80-85℃, homogenize at high speed for 5 minutes, and start to cool down to 65-70℃.

[0103] 2. Cool down to 65-70℃, add arginine, stir well, and then cool down.

[0104] 3. Use a suitable container to slightly heat and dissolve 4-butylresorcinol, butylene glycol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, and phenoxyethanol evenly.

[0105] 4. Cool down to 40-45℃, add dissolved 4-butylresorcinol, butylene glycol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, phenoxyethanol and the remaining niacinamide, carnosine, tranexamic acid, sea fennel callus culture filtrate, alpine edelweiss flower / leaf extract, stir and homogenize until the material is uniform, and discharge after passing the test.

Claims

1. A composition having whitening and brightening effects, characterized in that: including whitening ingredients, ingredients containing plant cell cultures or extracts, and carnosine; The components containing plant cell culture or extracts include sea fennel callus culture filtrate, alpine edelweiss flower / leaf extract; The weight ratio of the sea fennel callus culture filtrate to the alpine edelweiss flower / leaf extract is 0.01-0.5:0.01-5.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The weight ratio of the sea fennel callus culture filtrate to the alpine edelweiss flower / leaf extract is 0.1-0.4:1-4.

3. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The whitening component is one or more combinations of niacinamide, tranexamic acid and 4-butylresorcinol.

4. The composition according to claim 3, characterized in that The whitening components include nicotinamide, tranexamic acid and 4-butylresorcinol; the weight ratio of nicotinamide, tranexamic acid and 4-butylresorcinol is 0.1-3:0.02-2:0.01-2.

5. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The weight ratio of the whitening component, the component containing plant cell culture or extract, and carnosine is 0.1-7:0.02-5.5:0.01-1.

6. The composition according to claim 5, characterized in that The weight ratio of the whitening component, the component containing plant cell culture or extract, and carnosine is 0.2-5:1-5:0.1-1.

7. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 in preparing cosmetics.

8. A cosmetic, characterized in that: Contains the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6.

9. The cosmetic according to claim 8, characterized in that: The amount of the composition in the cosmetic is 0.05 to 15 wt %.

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