Double-gel-system pre-makeup cream as well as preparation method and application thereof

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to double-gel-system pre-makeup cream as well as a preparation method and application thereof. The invention relates to a double-gel system makeup cream, which is at least prepared from the following ingredients in parts by mass: 4 to 20 parts of skin moistening grease, 0.2 to 1 part of hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, 1.0 to 3 parts of isostearyl alcohol / butanediol cocoate / ethyl cellulose compounds and 0.5 to 2 parts of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate / starch sodium octenylsuccinate compounds. The double-gel-system pre-makeup cream prepared by matching the specific components according to a specific proportion has the moisturizing and skin-attaching effects of a water-in-oil system and the refreshing and breathable effects of an oil-in-water system; secondly, the system does not need to add an emulsifier, is free of silicone oil and silicon elastic components, is natural and safe, and can be used for sensitive skin; and finally, the system can intelligently regulate and control the oil-water balance of the face, so that the face is more fit in makeup keeping, the makeup keeping problems such as face powder blocking, makeup dizziness and floating powder are solved, and therefore, the system has good practical application value.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of cosmetic technology, specifically relating to a dual-gel system makeup primer, its preparation method, and its application. Background Technology

[0002] The information disclosed in this background section is intended only to enhance understanding of the overall background of the invention and is not necessarily to be construed as an admission or in any way implying that such information constitutes prior art known to those skilled in the art.

[0003] Makeup primer is a skincare product designed specifically for use before makeup application. Its main function is to lock in skin moisture, keep the skin hydrated and radiant, fill in skin texture, allow foundation to adhere better to the skin, make makeup more adherent and natural, prevent makeup from coming off or caking, and resist dullness.

[0004] In the formulation design of makeup primers, the choice of system is a crucial decision. Different systems have their own advantages and disadvantages. The most common systems on the market are oil-in-water (O / W) systems and water-in-oil (W / O) systems. The former has a light and refreshing texture, is easy to apply and absorb, and can form a uniform film, providing a good base for subsequent makeup. It directly provides moisture to the skin while forming a protective film to reduce moisture evaporation, resulting in a refreshing and light feel. The latter is suitable for formulas that require stronger oil protection, such as waterproof makeup primers, which may provide longer-lasting makeup. The texture may be thicker, making it suitable for dry skin or extremely dry environments.

[0005] To ensure excellent evenness and longevity in makeup base products, both O / W and W / O formulas typically include silicone-based ingredients such as silicone gel, silicone oil, etc. Long-term use can affect skin respiration, clog pores, and pose risks of acne and sensitivities, making them unsuitable for long-term use. Secondly, both O / W and W / O oil-based formulas inevitably contain emulsifiers. These emulsifiers may interact with proteins and lipids in the stratum corneum, damaging it, or even penetrate the lipid bilayer, disrupting liposome structure. This allows emulsifiers and some makeup ingredients to penetrate deeper into the epidermis, further damaging the stratum corneum and increasing skin irritation, leading to problems like redness, dryness, and itching in sensitive skin. Furthermore, the structural characteristics of these two formulas limit their application. For example, O / W systems are not very sweat- and water-resistant, easily causing makeup to smudge, cake, and have short wear time. W / O systems tend to be thicker and oilier, easily causing breakouts and dullness. Meanwhile, the condition of the skin during makeup application can affect its longevity. For example, oily areas like the forehead and nose can lead to makeup fading and dullness, while dry areas around the cheeks and mouth can cause makeup to become patchy and cakey. A single type of makeup primer cannot simultaneously meet the overall makeup longevity needs of the face.

[0006] In summary, neither O / W nor W / O makeup primers on the market can simultaneously meet the overall makeup-holding needs of the face. Moreover, the silicone, silicone, emulsifiers, and other ingredients they contain can easily cause allergies, acne, clog pores, and damage the stratum corneum. Summary of the Invention

[0007] To address the shortcomings of existing technologies, this invention aims to provide a dual-gel system makeup primer, its preparation method, and its applications. The dual-gel system is a homogeneous mixture formed by mixing hydrogels and oleogels in a specific ratio and continuously stirring at a set shear rate. This system retains the structural characteristics of both hydrogels and oleogels, exhibiting excellent spreadability, moisturizing properties, hydration, wash-off resistance, and a pleasant skin feel. Furthermore, the dual-gel system does not contain surfactants, avoiding irritation or dehydration of sensitive skin during use, making it suitable for gentle skincare applications. Specifically, this invention successfully prepares a dual-gel system makeup primer through scientific formulation and specific processes. It possesses advantages such as a refreshing and breathable texture, natural safety, and effectively solves makeup retention problems such as caking, smudging, and powder settling. Based on the above research results, this invention is thus completed.

[0008] To achieve the above-mentioned technical objectives, the present invention provides the following technical solution: A first aspect of the present invention provides a dual-gel system makeup primer, comprising at least the following components by weight: 4-20 parts of moisturizing oil, 0.2-1 part of hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, 1.0-3 parts of isostearyl alcohol / butylene glycol cocoate / ethyl cellulose complex, and 0.5-2 parts of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate / starch octenyl succinate sodium complex.

[0009] Furthermore, the moisturizing oil includes solid oil and liquid oil; the mass ratio of the two is 1:1 to 3:1.

[0010] Solid fats include, but are not limited to, one or more of the following: cetearyl alcohol, plant biomimetic sebum, beeswax, lemon fruit oil, hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, C10-18 fatty acid triglycerides, behenol, and macadamia seed oil; Furthermore, the plant-based biomimetic sebum comprises caprylic / capric triglycerides, phytosterols, glyceryl stearate, tocopheryl acetate, hydrogenated lecithin, bisabolol, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate, in a mass ratio of 45-55:30-40:10-15:0.1-1:0.1-1:0.1-1:0.1-1; preferably 51:35:12:0.5:0.5:0.5:0.5.

[0011] Furthermore, the lemon fat is a solid compound ingredient, prepared by mixing lemon peel oil with sweet almond oil and hydrogenated vegetable oil. The lemon peel oil is obtained from lemon peels from California through cold pressing and a series of refining processes. This natural oil is rich in limonene, a highly effective free radical scavenger. The mass ratio of hydrogenated vegetable oil, sweet almond (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS) oil, and lemon (CITRUS LIMON) peel oil is 5-10:5-10:1-5, preferably 9:9:2. In this invention, the lemon fat can be Biochemica® Lime Butter.

[0012] The liquid oils include, but are not limited to, one or more of the following: caprylic / capric triglycerides, meadowfoam seed oil, jojoba seed oil, camellia seed oil, olive oil, avocado oil, marula oil, wild soybean oil, carrot extract, burdock seed oil, coconut oil-caprylic / capric ester, and isononyl isononanoate. The mass ratio of isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate, and ethyl cellulose is 50-70:30-50:1-5, preferably 59:38:3. In this invention, the isostearyl alcohol / butylene glycol cocoate / ethyl cellulose complex can be EMULFREE CBG MB.

[0013] The mass ratio of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate to sodium starch octenyl succinate is 1-5:5-10, preferably 3:7. In this invention, the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate / sodium starch octenyl succinate composite can be STARDESIGN. TM POWER.

[0014] In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the dual-gel system makeup cream further comprises at least one of a thickener, a neutralizer, a moisturizer, a preservative, and a solvent.

[0015] In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the thickener includes, but is not limited to, xanthan gum, sclerotinia gum, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / behenol polyether-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, acrylate / C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, sodium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate, and ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, or one or more of these.

[0016] In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the thickener is a combination of ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / behenol polyether-25 methacrylate crosspolymer and acrylate / C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, with a mass ratio of 1-5:1-5. The ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / behenol polyether-25 methacrylate crosspolymer can be Aristoflex BLV, and the C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer can be TEGO® Carbomer 341 ER.

[0017] In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the neutralizing agent is tromethamine.

[0018] In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the moisturizer includes, but is not limited to, one or more of the following: pentylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, glycerin, xylitol glucoside, dehydrated xylitol, tremella extract, β-glucan, D-panthenol, xylitol, sodium hyaluronate, and recombinant type III collagen.

[0019] In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the moisturizer is a combination of butylene glycol, glycerin and D-panthenol, with a mass ratio of 1-3:1-5:0.5-2.

[0020] In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the preservative includes one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, and octyl glycol.

[0021] In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the preservative is a combination of hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, with a mass ratio of 1-2:1-2.

[0022] In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the dual-gel system makeup primer comprises, by weight percentage, the following components: The composition includes: 4-20% moisturizing oil, 0.2-1% hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, 1.0-3% stearyl alcohol / butylene glycol cocoate / ethyl cellulose complex, 0.5-2% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate / starch octenyl succinate sodium complex, 0.2-1.0% thickener, 0.1-0.8% neutralizer, 2.5-10% humectant, 0.1-2% preservative, and the balance being water.

[0023] Specifically, the moisturizing oil in this invention can rebuild the skin's surface lipid film when the stratum corneum barrier function is insufficient, effectively isolating external stimuli and preventing skin moisture loss, thus protecting and repairing the skin's lipid barrier. Secondly, the solid oils in the moisturizing oil can also increase the viscosity of the oil phase and the stability of the product. In addition, the lemon fruit oil in the moisturizing oil can give the product a fresh lemon fragrance, which can replace traditional daily fragrances, making the product gentler and safer.

[0024] The hydrogenated castor oil isostearate in this invention has hydroxyl groups that can form hydrogen bonds to increase the viscosity of the finished product, thereby increasing moisturizing properties and improving skin comfort after use; at the same time, it improves the co-solubility of other substances in the formula (waxes, resins and solvents, etc.), and improves the skin adhesion of the product and the adhesion and makeup-holding ability of the base makeup on the skin.

[0025] The isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate, and ethyl cellulose complex in this invention mainly plays a role in stabilizing the oil-water interface. In particular, the ethyl cellulose is present in both oil droplets and distributed at the oil-water interface, stabilizing the oil droplets through steric repulsion and preventing oil flocculation and aggregation.

[0026] The hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and sodium starch octenyl succinate complex in this invention can synergistically act with isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate, and ethyl cellulose complex at the oil-water interface to make the system more stable. Among them, sodium starch octenyl succinate has the function of emulsifying and stabilizing the oil phase, while hydroxypropyl starch phosphate modifies the texture of the water phase and adjusts the skin feel, making the product easier to absorb. At the same time, because sodium starch octenyl succinate and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate have the function of adsorbing oil and water, they can intelligently adsorb oily and sweaty areas of the skin surface, preventing makeup from fading, dulling, caking, and smudging.

[0027] The moisturizing agent combination in this invention can improve dry skin, increase skin moisture content, and keep the skin in a hydrated and plump state.

[0028] The preservative composition of this invention has good broad-spectrum and high-efficiency antifungal effect, and can replace traditional phenoxyethanol and methylparaben preservatives. It is safer and gentle on the skin without irritation.

[0029] A second aspect of this invention provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned dual-gel system, comprising the following steps: S1. Hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate, ethyl cellulose complex and moisturizing oil are mixed, heated and dissolved and stirred evenly. The heating temperature is 75-80℃. S2. Mix hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium starch octenyl succinate, water, humectant and thickener and heat to 75-80℃; S3. Add the oil phase from step S1 to the aqueous phase from step S2 while homogenizing until the two phases are mixed evenly. S4. Add the neutralizing agent to step S3 and continue stirring to mix thoroughly; S5. When the liquid in step S4 is cooled to 65-70℃, add the preservative and mix thoroughly. S6. In step S5, the liquid material is cooled down to no higher than 45°C while being stirred, and then discharged.

[0030] In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the stirring conditions in step S1 are: stirring speed 200-400 rpm, stirring time 5-10 min.

[0031] In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the conditions for mixing and homogenizing in step S3 are: homogenization speed of 3000-10000 rpm and homogenization time of 5-15 min.

[0032] In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the stirring conditions in steps S4, S5, and S6 are: stirring speed of 500-1000 rpm and stirring time of 5-20 min.

[0033] A third aspect of the present invention provides the application of the above-described dual-gel system makeup primer in oil control and / or facial makeup retention.

[0034] In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the facial makeup retention includes improving the adherence, integrity and durability of the makeup.

[0035] The beneficial technical effects of one or more of the above technical solutions are as follows: The above technical solution provides a dual-gel system makeup primer. By combining the above specific ingredients in a specific ratio, a dual-gel system makeup primer is prepared, which combines the moisturizing and skin-adhering properties of an oil-in-water system with the refreshing and breathable properties of a water-in-oil system. Secondly, this system does not require the addition of emulsifiers, and is free of silicone oil and silicone elastic ingredients, making it natural and safe for sensitive skin. Finally, this system can intelligently regulate the facial oil-water balance, making facial makeup adhere better and solving makeup problems such as caking, smudging, and powder settling.

[0036] Meanwhile, the cosmetic preparation method obtained by the above technical solution is simple and easy to implement, and the raw materials are inexpensive and readily available, making it very suitable for large-scale industrial production, and therefore has good practical application value. Attached Figure Description

[0037] The accompanying drawings, which form part of this invention, are used to provide a further understanding of the invention. The illustrative embodiments of the invention and their descriptions are used to explain the invention and do not constitute an improper limitation of the invention.

[0038] Figure 1 This is the makeup primer sample in Example 2 of the present invention. Detailed Implementation

[0039] It should be noted that the following detailed description is illustrative and intended to provide further explanation of the invention. Unless otherwise specified, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains.

[0040] It should be noted that the terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to limit the exemplary embodiments according to this application. As used herein, the singular form is intended to include the plural form as well, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. Furthermore, it should be understood that when the terms "comprising" and / or "including" are used in this specification, they indicate the presence of features, steps, operations, devices, components, and / or combinations thereof.

[0041] The present invention will be further described below with reference to embodiments. The present invention will be further illustrated by way of embodiments, but this does not limit the present invention to the scope of the embodiments described. Unless otherwise specified, the test methods used in the embodiments and comparative examples are conventional methods; the materials and reagents used are commercially available unless otherwise specified; and the percentages mentioned in the embodiments and comparative examples are mass percentages unless otherwise specified.

[0042] Raw materials and their sources involved in the examples: Table 1. Raw materials and their sources involved in the examples

[0043] Examples and comparative examples:

[0044] Example 1 A dual-gel system makeup primer, comprising the following components by weight percentage: EMULFREE CBG MB 1.0%, STAR DESIGN TMPOWER 0.5%, Plant-based Biomimetic Sebum 1%, White Beeswax 0.5%, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil Glycerides 0.5%, Cetearyl Alcohol 0.5%, Biochemica® Lime Butter 0.5%, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 0.5%, Isononyl Isononanoate 0.5%, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate 0.2%, Glycerin 1.0%, Butylene Glycol 1.0%, Panthenol 0.5%, Succinate 0.3%, Hexanediol 0.3%, Aristoflex BLV 0.5%, TEGO® Carbomer 341ER 0.5%, Tromethamine 0.5%, Water to 100%.

[0045] The preparation method of the above-mentioned dual-gel system makeup primer includes the following steps: S1. Mix EMULFREE CBG MB, moisturizing oil and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, heat to dissolve and stir evenly at 300 rpm for 8 minutes at 80°C. S2. STAR DESIGN TM Mix POWER, water, humectant and thickener and heat to 80°C; S3. Slowly add the oil phase from step S1 to the aqueous phase from step S2 while homogenizing. Once the two phases are mixed evenly, the homogenization speed is 8000 rpm and the homogenization time is 10 min. S4. Add the neutralizing agent to step S3 and continue stirring to mix thoroughly; S5. When the liquid in step S4 is cooled to 68°C, add the preservative mixture and stir until homogeneous; S6. In step S5, the liquid material is cooled to 45°C while being stirred, and then discharged.

[0046] The stirring conditions described in steps S4, S5, and S6 are: stirring speed of 800 rpm and stirring time of 15 min.

[0047] Example 2 A dual-gel system makeup primer, comprising the following components by weight percentage: EMULFREE CBG MB 1.5%, STAR DESIGN TMPOWER 1.0%, Plant-based Biomimetic Sebum 2.0%, White Beeswax 1.0%, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil Glycerides 3.4%, Cetearyl Alcohol 0.8%, Biochemica® Lime Butter 0.8%, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 3.0%, Isononyl Isononanoate 1.0%, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate 0.5%, Glycerin 2.5%, Butylene Glycol 2.0%, Panthenol 1.0%, Succinate 0.5%, Hexanediol 0.5%, Aristoflex BLV 0.25%, TEGO® Carbomer 341ER 0.25%, Tromethamine 0.25%, Water to 100%.

[0048] The preparation method of the makeup primer with the dual gel system described above is the same as that in Example 1.

[0049] The dual-gel system makeup primer product prepared above, such as Figure 1 As shown.

[0050] Example 3 A dual-gel system makeup primer, comprising the following components by weight percentage: EMULFREE CBG MB 3.0%, STAR DESIGN TM POWER 2.0%, Plant-based biomimetic sebum 3%, White beeswax 2%, Hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides 10%, Cetearyl alcohol 2%, Biochemica® Lime Butter 1%, Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 5%, Isononyl isononanoate 5%, Hydrogenated castor oil isostearate 1%, Glycerin 5%, Butylene glycol 3%, Panthenol 2%, Succinate 0.6%, Hexanediol 0.6%, Aristoflex BLV 0.1%, TEGO® Carbomer 341ER 0.1%, Tromethamine 0.1%, Water to 100%.

[0051] The preparation method of the makeup primer with the dual gel system described above is the same as that in Example 1.

[0052] Comparative Example 1 A dual-gel system makeup primer, comprising the following components by weight percentage: STAR DESIGN TMPOWER 1.0%, Plant-based Biomimetic Sebum 2.0%, White Beeswax 1.0%, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil Glycerides 3.4%, Cetearyl Alcohol 0.8%, Biochemica® Lime Butter 0.8%, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 3.0%, Isononyl Isononanoate 1.0%, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate 0.5%, Glycerin 2.5%, Butylene Glycol 2.0%, Panthenol 1.0%, Flavouring 0.5%, Hexanediol 0.5%, Aristoflex BLV 0.25%, TEGO® Carbomer 341ER 0.25%, Tromethamine 0.25%, Water to 100%.

[0053] The preparation method of Comparative Example 1 above includes the following steps: S1. Mix the moisturizing oil with hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, heat to dissolve and stir evenly at 300 rpm for 8 minutes at a temperature of 80°C. S2. STAR DESIGN TM Mix POWER, water, humectant and thickener and heat to 80°C; S3. Slowly add the oil phase from step S1 to the aqueous phase from step S2 while homogenizing. Once the two phases are mixed evenly, the homogenization speed is 8000 rpm and the homogenization time is 10 min. S4. Add the neutralizing agent to step S3 and continue stirring to mix thoroughly; S5. When the liquid in step S4 is cooled to 68°C, add the preservative mixture and stir until homogeneous; S6. In step S5, the liquid material is cooled to 45°C while being stirred, and then discharged.

[0054] The stirring conditions described in steps S4, S5, and S6 are: stirring speed of 800 rpm and stirring time of 15 min.

[0055] Comparative Example 2 A dual-gel system makeup primer, comprising the following components by weight percentage: EMULFREE CBG MB 1.5%, Plant-based Biomimetic Sebum 2.0%, White Beeswax 1.0%, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil Glycerides 3.4%, Cetearyl Alcohol 0.8%, Biochemica® Lime Butter 0.8%, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 3.0%, Isononyl Isononanoate 1.0%, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate 0.5%, Glycerin 2.5%, Butylene Glycol 2.0%, Panthenol 1.0%, Succinate 0.5%, Hexanediol 0.5%, Aristoflex BLV 0.25%, TEGO® Carbomer 341ER 0.25%, Tromethamine 0.25%, Water to 100%.

[0056] The preparation method of Comparative Example 2 above includes the following steps: S1. Mix EMULFREE CBG MB, moisturizing oil and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, heat to dissolve and stir evenly at 300 rpm for 8 minutes at 80°C. S2. Mix water, humectant, and thickener and heat to 80°C; S3. Slowly add the oil phase from step S1 to the aqueous phase from step S2 while homogenizing. Once the two phases are mixed evenly, the homogenization speed is 8000 rpm and the homogenization time is 10 min. S4. Add the neutralizing agent to step S3 and continue stirring to mix thoroughly; S5. When the liquid in step S4 is cooled to 68°C, add the preservative mixture and stir until homogeneous; S6. In step S5, the liquid material is cooled to 45°C while being stirred, and then discharged.

[0057] The stirring conditions described in steps S4, S5, and S6 are: stirring speed of 800 rpm and stirring time of 15 min.

[0058] Comparative Example 3 A dual-gel system makeup primer, comprising the following components by weight percentage: EMULFREE CBG MB 1.5%, STAR DESIGN TM POWER 1.0%, Plant-based Biomimetic Sebum 2.0%, White Beeswax 1.0%, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil Glycerides 3.4%, Cetearyl Alcohol 0.8%, Biochemica® Lime Butter 0.8%, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 3.0%, Isononyl Isononanoate 1.0%, Glycerin 2.5%, Butylene Glycol 2.0%, Panthenol 1.0%, Flavouring 0.5%, Hexanediol 0.5%, Aristoflex BLV 0.25%, TEGO® Carbomer 341ER 0.25%, Tromethamine 0.25%, Water to 100%.

[0059] The preparation method of Comparative Example 3 above includes the following steps: S1. Mix EMULFREE CBG MB with moisturizing oil, heat to dissolve and stir evenly at 300 rpm for 8 minutes at 80°C. S2. STAR DESIGN TM Mix POWER, water, humectant and thickener and heat to 80°C; S3. Slowly add the oil phase from step S1 to the aqueous phase from step S2 while homogenizing. Once the two phases are mixed evenly, the homogenization speed is 8000 rpm and the homogenization time is 10 min. S4. Add the neutralizing agent to step S3 and continue stirring to mix thoroughly; S5. When the liquid in step S4 is cooled to 68°C, add the preservative mixture and stir until homogeneous; S6. In step S5, the liquid material is cooled to 45°C while being stirred, and then discharged.

[0060] The stirring conditions described in steps S4, S5, and S6 are: stirring speed of 800 rpm and stirring time of 15 min.

[0061] Comparative Example 4 A dual-gel system makeup primer, comprising the following components by weight percentage: TEGO® Care 165 MB 2.5%, Plant-based Biomimetic Sebum 2.0%, White Beeswax 1.0%, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil Glycerides 3.4%, Cetearyl Alcohol 0.8%, Biochemica® Lime Butter 0.8%, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 3.0%, Isononyl Isononanoate 1.0%, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate 0.5%, Glycerin 2.5%, Butylene Glycol 2.0%, Panthenol 1.0%, Succinate 0.5%, Hexanediol 0.5%, Aristoflex BLV 0.25%, TEGO® Carbomer 341ER 0.25%, Tromethamine 0.25%, Water to 100%.

[0062] The preparation method of Comparative Example 4 above includes the following steps: S1. Mix TEGO® Care 165 MB, moisturizing oil and hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, heat to dissolve and stir evenly at 300 rpm for 8 minutes at 80°C. S2. Mix water, humectant, and thickener and heat to 80°C; S3. Slowly add the oil phase from step S1 to the aqueous phase from step S2 while homogenizing. Once the two phases are mixed evenly, the homogenization speed is 8000 rpm and the homogenization time is 10 min. S4. Add the neutralizing agent to step S3 and continue stirring to mix thoroughly; S5. When the liquid in step S4 is cooled to 68°C, add the preservative mixture and stir until homogeneous; S6. In step S5, the liquid material is cooled to 45°C while being stirred, and then discharged.

[0063] The stirring conditions described in steps S4, S5, and S6 are: stirring speed of 800 rpm and stirring time of 15 min.

[0064] Comparative Example 5 A dual-gel system makeup primer, comprising the following components by weight percentage: EMULFREE CBG MB 1.5%, STAR DESIGN TM POWER 1.0%, Plant-based Biomimetic Sebum 1.0%, White Beeswax 0.5.0%, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil Glycerides 1.7%, Cetearyl Alcohol 0.4%, Biochemica® Lime Butter 0.4%, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 6.0%, Isononyl Isononanoate 2.0%, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate 0.5%, Glycerin 2.5%, Butylene Glycol 2.0%, Panthenol 1.0%, Flavouring 0.5%, Hexanediol 0.5%, Aristoflex BLV 0.25%, TEGO® Carbomer 341ER 0.25%, Tromethamine 0.25%, Water to 100%.

[0065] The preparation method of Comparative Example 5 is the same as that of Example 1.

[0066] Experiment Example 1: Stability Test Test samples: Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1, 2, and 5 makeup primers.

[0067] Test method: The makeup cream samples of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1, 2, and 5 were placed at -18℃ and 45℃ respectively to investigate their heat and cold resistance stability. Every month, the stability test samples were taken out and placed at room temperature for 24 hours to observe the sample status. Then, the heat and cold resistance conditions were continued to be investigated until the third month. The specific experimental results are shown in Table 1. Table 1. Results of stability study

[0068] Based on the heat and cold resistance stability test results of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1, 2, and 5, it can be seen that the combination of (isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate, ethyl cellulose) and (hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium starch octenyl succinate) can synergistically enhance the stability of this dual-gel system. Meanwhile, the mass ratio of solid oils to liquid oils in the system also has a crucial impact on the overall stability.

[0069] The stabilization mechanism can be explained as follows: In the bigel systems constructed using either (isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate, ethyl cellulose) or (hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium starch octenyl succinate), the resulting water-oil interface film structure is relatively weak and prone to demulsification, as shown in Comparative Examples 1 and 2. However, by combining the two, a more compact and stable composite interface film can be constructed at the oil-water interface, thereby exerting a synergistic stabilizing effect and improving the overall structural strength of the system.

[0070] In Comparative Example 5, the decrease in heat resistance stability when the mass ratio of solid oil to liquid oil was 1:2 may be due to the higher proportion of liquid oil. Under high temperature conditions, the thermal motion of oil molecules intensifies, making them more likely to break free from the interfacial film, leading to oil phase precipitation and thus affecting product stability.

[0071] Experiment Example 2: Performance Test of Oil Control and Makeup Holding Power Testing instruments: 1. VISIA7 for facial image acquisition and IPP for skin color analysis of the acquired photos; 2. Sebumeter® SM815 for detecting skin oil content; 3. Subject self-assessment.

[0072] Inclusion criteria for testing: Age 19 to 39 years, transdermal water loss (TEWL) ≥20 g / m² on the face before use. 2 h. The questionnaire screened volunteers with sensitive skin and oily skin; a total of 90 people met the above requirements and were divided into 3 groups of 30 people each.

[0073] Test method: Subjects used the product independently under the supervision of laboratory technicians for a single use.

[0074] ① 12-hour oil control: Each group applied the sample of Example 2 to one side of their forehead, and applied the samples of Comparative Example 3, Comparative Example 4, and Comparative Example 5 to the other side of their forehead.

[0075] ② 12-hour makeup lasting effect: For each group, apply an appropriate amount of the makeup primer sample from Example 2 to the area below the eyebrows on one half of the face and gently pat it in. For the other half of the face, each group should apply an appropriate amount of the samples from Comparative Example 3, Comparative Example 4, and Comparative Example 5 evenly to the area below the eyebrows. Take a small amount of foundation and apply it evenly to the area below the eyebrows with your fingers. Use a powder puff to quickly and evenly pat it in. Then, apply setting powder evenly to the makeup area on the face. Do not drag or tug on the makeup.

[0076] Assessment period: At T0 (after washing face, as baseline data), laboratory technicians collected VISIA images of the subject's face and Sebumeter measurements; at T15min (15 minutes after makeup application), T4h (4 hours after makeup application), T8h (8 hours after makeup application), and T12h (12 hours after makeup application), laboratory technicians collected VISIA images of the subject's face and Sebumeter measurements, and the subject completed a questionnaire.

[0077] Data statistics: Data were analyzed using SPSS 28.0. A normality test was performed on the assessment data. If the assessment data were normally distributed, a paired t-test was used for statistical analysis; if the assessment data were not normally distributed, a rank-sum test was used for statistical analysis. Ordinal data were analyzed using the rank-sum test. The statistical significance level was p < 0.05.

[0078] Analysis of oil and fat test results: Table 2. Skin oil content test

[0079] Note: "*": The difference is statistically significant (0.01 ≤ P < 0.05); "**": The difference is statistically significant (0.001 ≤ P < 0.01).

[0080] Based on the results of the measurement of forehead sebum content at different time points (4 h, 8 h, 12 h) after use in Example 2 and Comparative Examples 3-5, the oil content in Example 2 was significantly lower than that in Comparative Examples 3-5 at each time point, indicating that the system has good oil control performance.

[0081] Specifically, Comparative Example 3 showed no significant difference from Example 2 at 4 h, while significant differences existed at 8 h and 12 h, but the actual numerical differences were small. This indicates that hydrogenated castor oil isostearate has a certain regulatory effect on skin oil content, but the effect is relatively limited. Its oil-controlling mechanism may stem from the wax ester properties and special molecular structure of this component, which can form a network structure in the oil phase, inhibiting the separation of liquid oil and enhancing the adhesion and conformity of the product to the skin surface, thus showing an "apparent" reduction in sebum content during instrument detection.

[0082] Comparative Example 4 showed significantly higher forehead oil content at 4 h, 8 h, and 12 h compared to Example 2, indicating that the dual-gel emulsion system composed of (hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium starch octenyl succinate) and (isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate, ethyl cellulose) is superior to conventional nonionic oil-in-water emulsion systems represented by PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate in oil control. Its oil control mechanism may involve the components such as hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium starch octenyl succinate, and ethyl cellulose in the dual-gel system. Besides synergistically exerting emulsifying and stabilizing functions, the hydrophobic groups or internal pores in their molecular structure have an adsorption effect on some of the sebum secreted by the skin.

[0083] The oil content of Comparative Example 5 at 4 h, 8 h, and 12 h was also significantly higher than that of Example 2, indicating that the ratio of solid oil to liquid oil in the dual-gel system significantly affects the oil content measured on the skin surface. A possible reason is that solid oil adheres more easily to the skin surface or is adsorbed into the gel matrix, while when the proportion of liquid oil is too high, it easily mixes with sebum secreted by the skin and accumulates on the skin surface, leading to an increase in the measured oil content.

[0084] In summary, the dual-gel structure and solid-liquid-oil ratio used in Example 2 work synergistically to achieve a more durable and efficient oil control effect.

[0085] Analysis of makeup staying power results: Table 3. Comparison of Makeup Completeness

[0086] Rating criteria: 0 to 9 points (0 points represents very good, 9 points represents very bad) Table 4. Comparison of Makeup Adhesion

[0087] Rating criteria: 0 to 9 points (0 points represents very good, 9 points represents very bad) Based on the evaluation results of the integrity and adherence of the makeup on the cheek area at 4 h, 8 h and 12 h after use of Example 2 and Comparative Examples 3-5, Example 2 was significantly better than Comparative Examples 3-5 at all time points, indicating that the invention system has the ability to significantly improve the durability of makeup.

[0088] The specific analysis is as follows: Comparative Example 3 showed lower makeup integrity and adherence compared to Example 2 at 4 h, 8 h, and 12 h, with the difference being more pronounced in adherence. This indicates that hydrogenated castor oil isostearate plays a crucial role in enhancing the adhesion between the product and the skin, and its excellent spreadability and film-forming properties contribute to improving the adherence of the base makeup.

[0089] Comparative Example 4 also showed significantly lower makeup integrity and adherence compared to Example 2. This is presumably because hydrogenated castor oil isostearate effectively wets the powder components in the system (such as hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and sodium starch octenyl succinate), promoting a uniform and even distribution of the powder on the skin's oil film and preventing a heavy or uneven makeup look due to agglomeration. Furthermore, the dual-gel system used in Example 2 possesses both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties, resulting in better compatibility with subsequent base makeup products and enhancing the overall makeup's durability and integrity. In contrast, the conventional water-in-oil emulsion system used in Comparative Example 4 is too hydrophilic, making it more prone to makeup melting and fading under the influence of sweat or sebum.

[0090] Comparative Example 5 also showed significantly lower makeup integrity at 4 h, 8 h, and 12 h compared to Example 2, indicating that the ratio of solid oils to liquid oils has a significant impact on makeup longevity. An appropriate solid-liquid oil ratio helps control oil on the skin's surface, while excessive liquid oils tend to mix with sebum, causing problems such as oiliness, makeup fading, and powder settling.

[0091] In summary, the dual-gel system and its optimized oil ratio used in Example 2 work together to demonstrate synergistic advantages in improving makeup adherence, integrity, and durability.

[0092] Experimental Example 3: Closed Patch Test on Human Skin Test area: Forearm flexor side Inclusion criteria for the test: Age 18 to 55 years, percutaneous water loss (TEWL) ≥20 g / m² in the flexor aspect of the forearm before use. 2 h. The questionnaire screened volunteers with sensitive skin; a total of 30 people met the above requirements.

[0093] Test method: Select a qualified plaster applicator and place 0.020~0.025 mL of the test substance into the small chamber of the plaster applicator. Apply the plaster applicator containing the test substance to the back or flexor side of the forearm of the subject for 24 hours.

[0094] Evaluation period and observation results: The test sample applicator was removed 24 hours later, and skin reactions were observed at 0.5h, 24h, and 48h after removal. The observation results were recorded according to the skin reaction grading standards in the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications" (2015 edition).

[0095] Interpretation criteria: See Table 5 for the grading criteria of skin reaction in closed patch tests.

[0096] Table 5. Grading Criteria for Skin Reactions in Closed Patch Tests

[0097] Test Result Analysis: According to the grading criteria in Table 5, the skin reaction of the volunteers' test areas was scored at 0.5h, 24h and 48h after the removal of the spot tester. The results are shown in Table 6.

[0098] Table 6. Grading Criteria for Skin Reactions in Closed Patch Tests

[0099] Based on the patch test results of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 5, it can be seen that the emulsion system composed of isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and sodium starch octenyl succinate (Examples 1-3) exhibits good mildness and is relatively friendly to people with sensitive skin. In contrast, Comparative Example 4, which uses PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate as emulsifiers, showed some degree of skin reaction at the test sites 0.5 hours after the patch apparatus was removed: 4 people showed weak erythema (suspected reaction), 2 people showed weak positive reaction, and 1 person still had a weak positive reaction 24 hours after the patch apparatus was removed, indicating that this emulsion system may not be friendly to people with sensitive skin and has a potential risk of sensitization or irritation.

[0100] The mechanism of action can be explained as follows: the emulsification system composed of isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and sodium starch octenyl succinate mainly encapsulates oils in the inner phase through physical adsorption. Due to its large molecular weight, it is not easy to penetrate into the skin. PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate emulsifiers, on the other hand, reduce the interfacial tension between oil and water through their hydrophilic and lipophilic molecular structures, thus achieving emulsification. These emulsifiers are more likely to interact with proteins and lipids in the stratum corneum, disrupting the integrity of the stratum corneum, inserting into the lipid bilayer, and disturbing the liposome structure. This allows the emulsifier or other ingredients to penetrate more easily into the deeper layers of the epidermis, increasing skin irritation and causing adverse reactions such as erythema.

[0101] The above description is merely a preferred embodiment of the present invention and is not intended to limit the invention. Various modifications and variations can be made to the present invention by those skilled in the art. Any modifications, equivalent substitutions, improvements, etc., made within the spirit and principles of the present invention should be included within the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims

1. A dual gel system make-up primer, characterized in that, The composition comprises at least the following components in mass fraction: 4-20 parts of emollient oil, 0.2-1 part of hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, 1.0-3 parts of isostearyl alcohol / butyleneglycol cocoate / ethyl cellulose compound, 0.5-2 parts of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate / sodium starch octenyl succinate compound.

2. The dual gel system primer according to claim 1, wherein the dual gel system primer is a gel type primer. The emollient oil comprises solid oil and liquid oil, and the mass ratio of the two is 1:1-3:

1.

3. The dual gel system primer according to claim 2, wherein the gel system comprises a first gel system and a second gel system, and the first gel system and the second gel system are different from each other. The solid oil comprises one or more of cetyl stearyl alcohol, plant bionic sebum, beeswax, lemon butter, hydrogenated glyceryl cocoate, C10-18 fatty acid triglyceride, behenyl alcohol, and macadamia seed oil. Further, the plant bionic sebum comprises caprylic / capric triglyceride, phytosterol, glyceryl stearate, tocopheryl acetate, hydrogenated lecithin, bisabolol, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate, and the mass ratio of the above components is 45-55:30-40:10-15:0.1-1:0.1-1:0.1-1:0.1-1; preferably 51:35:12:0.5:0.5:0.5:0.

5. Further, the lemon butter is Biochemica® Lime Butter. The liquid oil comprises one or more of caprylic / capric triglyceride, white pool flower seed oil, jojoba seed oil, camellia seed oil, olive oil, avocado oil, marula oil, wild soybean oil, carrot extract, burre hard hickory seed oil, cocoil-cocoate, isononyl isononanoate.

4. The dual gel system primer according to claim 1, wherein the dual gel system primer is a gel type primer. The mass ratio of the isostearyl alcohol, butyleneglycol cocoate, and ethyl cellulose is 50-70:30-50:1-5, preferably 59:38:3; further, the isostearyl alcohol / butyleneglycol cocoate / ethyl cellulose compound is EMULFREE CBG MB.

5. The dual-gel system makeup primer as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The mass ratio of the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and sodium starch octenylsuccinate is 1-5:5-10, preferably 3:7; further, the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate / sodium starch octenylsuccinate complex is STAR DESIGN TM POWER.

6. The dual-gel system makeup primer as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The dual-gel system makeup primer further comprises at least one of thickening agent, neutralizing agent, humectant, preservative, and solvent.

7. The dual-gel system makeup primer as described in claim 6, characterized in that, The thickening agent comprises one or more of xanthan gum, microcrystalline cellulose, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / behenyl alcohol polyoxyl 25 methacrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer. Further, the thickening agent is a combination of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / behenyl alcohol polyoxyl 25 methacrylate crosspolymer and acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and the mass ratio of the two is 1-5:1-5; further, the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / behenyl alcohol polyoxyl 25 methacrylate crosspolymer is Aristoflex BLV, and the C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is TEGO® Carbomer 341 ER. The neutralizing agent is tromethamine. The moisturizing agent includes one or more of pentylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, glycerin, xylityl glucoside, anhydrous xylitol, tremella extract, beta glucan, D-panthenol, xylitol, sodium hyaluronate, and recombinant collagen type III; Further, the moisturizing agent is a combination of butylene glycol, glycerin, and D-panthenol, and the mass ratio of the three is 1-3:1-5:0.5-2; The preservative includes any one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, hexylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, and octoxyglycerin; Further, the preservative is a combination of hexylene glycol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, and the mass ratio of the two is 1-2:1-2.

8. The dual-gel system primer of any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the dual-gel system primer comprises: The following components are included in the mass percentage: emollient 4-20%, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate 0.2-1%, stearic alcohol / butyleneglycol cocoate / ethyl cellulose complex 1.0-3%, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate / starch sodium octenyl succinate complex 0.5-2%, thickening agent 0.2-1.0%, neutralizing agent 0.1-0.8%, moisturizing agent 2.5-10%, preservative 0.1-2%, and the balance is water.

9. Process for the preparation of the double gel system according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that, The following steps are included: S1. Mix and heat to dissolve and stir evenly the hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate, ethyl cellulose complex, and emollient, and the heating temperature is 75-80℃; S2. Mix and heat to 75-80℃ the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, starch sodium octenyl succinate, water, moisturizing agent, and thickening agent; S3. Add the oil phase of step S1 to the water phase of step S2, and homogenize while adding, and then mix and stir evenly after the two phases are mixed; S4. Add the neutralizing agent to step S3, and continue to mix and stir evenly; S5. When the temperature of the liquid in step S4 is reduced to 65-70℃, add the preservative, and mix and stir evenly; S6. When the temperature of the liquid in step S5 is reduced to not higher than 45℃, discharge the product.

10. The use of the pre-makeup cream of the double gel system according to any one of claims 1-8 in oil control and / or face makeup holding.

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