Composition comprising different extracts

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: at least one hypnotic solanum nigrum extract; at least one Terminalia freynii kernel extract; and at least one lactobacillus extract. The invention also relates to uses and methods of using the composition.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: - At least one sleep-inducing extract of *Symplocos edulis*; - at least one extract of Terminalia ferruginosa; and - At least one Lactobacillus extract. Background Technology

[0002] Skin is a continuous tissue of cells that are firmly attached to each other. Skin tissue forms an outer lining containing sebaceous or sweat glands, as well as hair follicles. Skin, especially the scalp, is a constantly renewing epithelium. Renewal, or shedding, is a coordinated and finely regulated process that results in the removal of surface cells, which is neither felt nor visible.

[0003] Human skin consists of two compartments: the surface compartment (epidermis) and the deep compartment (dermis).

[0004] The epidermis is generally divided into three layers: the basal layer, which is composed of keratinocytes forming the germinal layer; the spinous layer, which consists of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinal layer; the first to third layers, called the granular layer, which consists of flattened cells containing different cytoplasmic contents; the clear corneal granules; and finally, the upper layer, called the corneal layer (or stratum corneum), which is composed of keratinocytes in the terminal stage of their differentiation.

[0005] Keratinocytes are anucleate cells, primarily composed of fibrous material containing cytokeratin, and are surrounded by the corneal capsule. According to a mechanism called desquamation, new keratinocytes are permanently generated to compensate for the continuous loss of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum.

[0006] However, an imbalance between cell production and the rate of shedding in the basal layer can lead to the formation of scales on the skin surface. Similarly, defects in terminal differentiation of cells in the stratum corneum, for various reasons, can result in the formation of large, thick clumps of cells visible to the naked eye, known as "dandruff," or in other cases, thinning of the stratum corneum. This can lead to fragility of the epidermal barrier, chronic dehydration of the stratum corneum, and / or loss of the skin's mechanical elasticity or firmness.

[0007] Examples of factors that contribute to a decline in skin surface quality include stress, winter, excessive sebum, or lack of hydration.

[0008] Therefore, skin barrier fragility can occur in the presence of external attacks such as irritants (detergents, acids, alkalis, oxidants, reducing agents, concentrated solvents, harmful gases or fumes), heat or climate imbalances (cold, dryness, radiation), xenobiotic imbalances (unwanted microorganisms, allergens), or internal attacks of the psychological stress type.

[0009] Commonly used hydrating agents, such as moisturizers, hydrating polymers, or lipid bodies like petrolatum, temporarily alter the surface properties of the skin. These active agents can increase the mechanical softness of the stratum corneum, increase its hydration state, and / or improve the skin's microstructure by forming a surface film on the skin. Generally, these effects do not last long, only a few hours. Furthermore, after cleansing the skin, these active agents are eliminated, and the effects of increasing the skin's mechanical softness, improving skin texture, or improving the skin's optical properties disappear.

[0010] In addition, the epidermis undergoes many changes during the aging process, which lead to changes in micromorphology, the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and a decrease in skin firmness as we age.

[0011] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetics, that is, those designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, is becoming a major focus in helping to address global challenges.

[0012] Therefore, providing more sustainable compositions and / or preparation methods and / or ingredients becomes crucial, thereby enabling the solution of these environmental problems.

[0013] Therefore, there is a need for active agents that allow the skin to maintain its barrier function.

[0014] In addition, surfactants that enhance the skin's surface condition are needed to further improve firming properties.

[0015] Maintaining or restoring a keratinized capsule with satisfactory maturity is essential for maintaining a good quality barrier function that provides protection against external attacks and long-term hydration of the skin, particularly the epidermis.

[0016] In addition, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable and / or raw materials with a good wilderness quality index and / or natural and, more particularly, plant-based sources, while reducing the use of petrochemical-derived compounds. Summary of the Invention

[0017] This invention helps to meet these needs.

[0018] This invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: - At least one hypnotic nightshade ( Withania somnifera Extracts; - at least one type of olive kernel ( Terminalia ferdinandiana ) extract; and -At least one lactobacillus ( Lactobacillus Extract.

[0019] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one C-glycoside.

[0020] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises one of ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof.

[0021] The present invention also relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: - At least one sleep-inducing extract of *Symplocos edulis*; - At least one extract of Terminalia chebula; - at least one lactobacillus extract; and - At least one C-glycoside, particularly the C-glycoside of formula (I), and / or one of the ascorbic acid or its derivatives.

[0022] The present invention also relates to the use of such compositions for enhancing barrier function and / or enhancing skin hydration.

[0023] Typically, by enhancing barrier function, the composition also improves skin quality and / or skin tone radiance.

[0024] The present invention also relates to the use of this composition for enhancing skin firmness.

[0025] The term "skin" refers to all the skin of the body, preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably the skin of the face (especially the forehead, nose, cheeks and chin), neckline and neck.

[0026] The present invention also relates to non-therapeutic cosmetic methods for caring for keratin materials such as skin, comprising topically applying at least one composition according to the invention to these keratin materials. More specifically, the present invention relates to cosmetic treatment methods as defined above for enhancing and / or strengthening the skin barrier function, particularly helping to maintain skin with a good quality barrier function.

[0027] Hypnotic Solanum extract The composition according to the invention comprises at least one extract of *Dendrobium nobile*. *Dendrobium nobile* species ( Withania somnifera The species *Dunal.* was described by the Swedish naturalist Carl von Linné and then reclassified in 1852 by the French botanist Michel Félix Dunard. Its distribution ranges from the Mediterranean coast to China, through Africa, Australia, the Middle East, India, and Sri Lanka.

[0028] Widely cultivated in India, the species is found in different countries, such as South Africa or the United States, with various cultivars and varieties selected and produced.

[0029] Hypnotic nightshade (Solanum nigrum) belongs to the Solanaceae family and is a small shrub, generally not exceeding 170 cm in height. It has thick, fleshy roots and light brown bark; the stems are woody at the base and widely branched. Its leaves are elliptical, nearly pointed, and covered with stiff hairs on the underside. The self-fertile flowers form small, axillary umbels of 3-6 flowers per cluster. The calyx enlarges after flowering and persists around the fruit as lobes. The fruit is a small, bright red, pea-shaped berry.

[0030] Hypnotic nightshade is considered an adaptation plant, that is, a plant that increases the body's ability to adapt to different types of stress.

[0031] Sleeping solanum is used in traditional African medicine and has many uses. From Cape Verde to Madagascar, through Somalia or Ethiopia, the root has been used for various purposes.

[0032] In Indian Ayurvedic medicine, an alcoholic root extract known as "Ashwagandha" has been used for centuries as a medicinal ingredient to enhance physical and mental health, increase lifespan, and boost vitality.

[0033] In addition to traditional medicine, physicochemical analysis of Solanum lycopersicum has revealed the presence of a large number of bioactive compounds known as solanolone.

[0034] According to the present invention, all or part of the nightshade plant can be used as an extract. In fact, the plant parts used as extracts are selected from the group consisting of roots, fruits, flowers, seeds, leaves, and stems.

[0035] Particularly preferred is the root. It can consist of fresh, frozen, dried, whole, chopped, and / or ground roots. Advantageously, it consists of dried and ground roots.

[0036] The extract of Solanum nigrum can be obtained in particular by an extraction method comprising a solid / liquid extraction of at least a portion of the plant, followed by a second step of solid / liquid separation, and a third step of recovering the liquid phase, wherein the solvent used in the method is a mixture of fructose, glycerol and optionally water.

[0037] The solvent may contain water or not. However, the presence of water in the solvent has the advantage of fluidizing the solvent, which is beneficial for extraction.

[0038] Advantageously, the solvent consists of a mixture of fructose, glycerol, and water. Plant extracts are frequently formulated in cosmetic compositions, and it is important to avoid extraction solvents containing salts or acids, at least in trace amounts. Indeed, it is well known that formulations containing multiple ingredients based on salt concentrations exceeding 0.1%, in gel or emulsion form, are particularly complex. Furthermore, acids, by lowering the pH of the obtained extract, have the effect of making the formulation difficult to form a gel or emulsion. In particular, cosmetics for skin applications must have a suitable pH, preferably similar to the pH of the skin (approximately pH 6.5) or neutral. Therefore, under these conditions, the use of acidic solvents necessitates the addition of excipients, especially pH adjusters.

[0039] Furthermore, when the components of the solvent are present in a certain molar ratio, the solvent exhibits the properties of a eutectic solvent or NaDES. According to the present invention, a “eutectic solvent” or “natural deep eutectic solvent (NaDES)” refers to a mixture of naturally sourced compounds that can be used as solvents and possess a superstructure based on hydrogen interactions. In short, the presence of a NaDES superstructure in a given mixture can be determined by two-dimensional NMR spectroscopy, particularly by NOESY (Nuclear Overhauser Effect SpectroscopY) sequences. The presence of relevant points (off-diagonal peaks) expresses a certain spatial proximity between the considered spins and makes it possible to detect the NaDES superstructure. This superstructure and the methods for detecting it are well known to those skilled in the art and are accurately described in Dai et al., 2013 (Analytica Chimica Acta, Vol. 766, pp. 61-68), which those skilled in the art can refer to.

[0040] The solvent is liquid, especially at ambient temperature, which facilitates the use of methods for producing extracts according to the invention.

[0041] In one specific embodiment, the solvent is composed of a mixture of fructose, glycerol and water in a molar ratio preferably of about 1:1:5.

[0042] In practice, the solvent used can be prepared by mixing fructose and glycerol, or fructose, glycerol and water, in a stirred reactor until a colorless and transparent mixture is obtained. This mixing can be carried out at a temperature of 2°C to 100°C for 30 minutes to 6 hours, preferably at 40°C to 70°C for 1 hour to 2 hours.

[0043] The extract can be obtained by using a solid / liquid extraction step.

[0044] In particular, it consists of a sophora flavescens root extract, which is advantageously dried and ground.

[0045] Solid / liquid extraction can be performed using various techniques well known to those skilled in the art, such as maceration, remaceration, digestion, dynamic maceration, decoction, fluidized bed extraction, microwave-assisted extraction, ultrasonic-assisted extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, repercolation, leaching, low-pressure extraction, and percolation.

[0046] In practice, the plant / solvent mass ratio used in the extraction step is between 1:99 and 50:50. The extraction step is preferably carried out at a temperature of 2°C to 100°C, more preferably 20°C to 80°C. The extraction step can be maintained for several minutes to several days.

[0047] To optimize the extraction of active compounds while protecting them from oxidation by oxygen in the air, the solid / liquid extraction step is advantageously carried out under stirring and / or in a nitrogen atmosphere.

[0048] The solid / liquid extraction step is followed by a solid / liquid separation step, the purpose of which is to recover the liquid phase containing the active substance, also known as the solid / liquid separation filtrate. This separation can be performed using any technique known in the art, particularly filtration, pressing, rotary drying, centrifugation, or filtration. Optionally, the solid / liquid separation step can also be followed by a fractionation step of the crude extract, which allows obtaining fractions rich in one or more classes of molecules extracted from the plant. In practice, the fractionation step can be performed using techniques known in the art, particularly low-pressure chromatography or tangential membrane filtration.

[0049] Optionally, the liquid / solid separation or fractionation step can be followed by a concentration step of the crude extract or fraction, which allows for the acquisition of a concentrate in liquid or semi-solid form, depending on the concentration factor. In practice, the concentration step can be carried out by low-pressure evaporation or reverse osmosis.

[0050] Preferably, the solid / liquid separation filtrate or concentrate further undergoes one or more clarification steps. For this clarification step, any type of filtration known in the art as discussed can be used.

[0051] Finally, considering packaging, the method for obtaining the extract according to the invention may include a sterilization step, such as sterile filtration or pasteurization. Sterile filtration is typically performed by passing the product through a filter containing pores with a diameter of approximately 0.22 μm. Preferably, the sterile filtration step is the final step of the method. Furthermore, a microbial preservative, preferably a mixture of citric acid and potassium sorbate, may be added to the extract prior to the sterilization step.

[0052] Preferably, the Solanum nigrum extract according to the invention is a Solanum nigrum root extract. It is sold in particular by Gattefosse under the name "EnergiNius" and is in the form of a mixture of 7% by weight of Solanum nigrum extract, 46.7% by weight of fructose, 23% by weight of glycerol, 23% by weight of water, 0.2% by weight of potassium sorbate and 0.1% by weight of citric acid relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0053] Preferably, the solanum extract is present in the composition according to the invention at a content of 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.05% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] Felicis almond extract The compositions according to the present invention contain at least one extract of Terminalia chebula.

[0055] Felicis almond ( Terminalia ferdinandiana Kakadu plum, also known as gubinge, murunga, or billygoat plum, is a flowering plant belonging to the Combretaceae family. It is native to Australia and is widely distributed in forests.

[0056] Its fruit has the highest vitamin C content of all fruits (50 times higher than oranges). It is also rich in phenolic acids (antioxidants).

[0057] It is a slender, medium-sized tree, reaching up to 14 meters in height, with mottled, flaky bark in colors such as cream, green, gray, orange, and yellow, and opposite, grayish-green, lanceolate, single leaves. The flowers are small, creamy-white, and fragrant, located in the leaf axils near the tips of branches. Flowering occurs from September to December (spring and summer in the Southern Hemisphere).

[0058] The fruit is yellowish-green, about 2 cm long and 1 cm in diameter, about the size of an almond, and has a short beak containing a large seed when in season. It begins to ripen in March.

[0059] According to the present invention, all or part of the Terminalia chebula plant can be used as an extract. In practice, the plant parts used as extracts are selected from the group consisting of roots, fruits, flowers, seeds, leaves, and stems.

[0060] Particularly preferably, the plant part used is the fruit. It can include fresh, frozen, dried, whole, chopped, and / or ground fruit. Preferably, the fruit is whole (i.e., with seeds).

[0061] The extract of Terminalia chebula is obtained, in particular, by cold extraction of at least a portion of the plant, especially under pressure. This method may then include a sterilization step, for example, by sterile filtration. Finally, the obtained extract can be mixed with a solvent. The solvent is preferably a glycol, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, or pentylene glycol. Preferably, the solvent is pentylene glycol.

[0062] Preferably, the Terminalia fintel extract according to the invention is a Terminalia fintel fruit extract. It is sold in particular by Biocosmethic under the name "Kalmethic" and is in the form of a mixture of 97% by weight of Terminalia fintel fruit extract and 3% pentylene glycol relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0063] Preferably, relative to the total weight of the composition, the Terminalia chebula extract is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably 0.02% to 1% by weight, and more preferably 0.03% to 1% by weight.

[0064] Lactobacillus extract The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one lactobacillus extract. Preferably, the lactobacillus extract is an inactivated lactobacillus extract.

[0065] Preferably, the lactobacillus extract is *Lactobacillus plantarum* (…). L. plantarum The extract is preferably a *Lactobacillus plantarum* HEAL19 (DSM 15313) extract. This extract is particularly sold by Probi AB.

[0066] Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) is a lactic acid bacteria strain selected based on its high tannin activity. This product is used as a prebiotic.

[0067] Preferably, lactobacillus and prebiotics, preferably maltodextrin, are formulated together.

[0068] Preferably, the Lactobacillus extract is obtained by the following steps: fermenting Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL19 (DSM15313); then centrifuging to recover the precipitate; passing the precipitate through a granulator, then adding a cryoprotectant and freeze-drying; mixing with maltodextrin and water; pasteurizing; and then drying to remove moisture to obtain a powder.

[0069] Lactobacillus extract is sold by Symrise under the name "Symreboot L19" and is in the form of a mixture of 80% by weight of Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) extract and 20% maltodextrin relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0070] Preferably, the Lactobacillus extract is present in the composition according to the invention at a content of 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 0.8% by weight, and more preferably 0.05% to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] C-glycosides Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one C-glycoside.

[0072] The C-glycosides (or C-glycoside derivatives) according to the invention are preferably C-glycosides according to the following general formula (I), and their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical and geometric isomers: [Chemical Formula 1] (I) in: -R represents a C1-C10, especially C1-C4 saturated straight-chain alkyl group, optionally substituted by at least one group selected from OH, COOH or COOR"2, wherein R"2 is a saturated C1-C4 alkyl group; -X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)-, especially -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- groups, preferably -CH(OH)- groups; -S indicates a monosaccharide or polysaccharide containing up to 20 sugar units, particularly up to 6 sugar units, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide being in the form of pyranose and / or furanose, and L- and / or D-type monosaccharides or polysaccharides, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide optionally substituted with a forced free hydroxyl group and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and -The S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be α or β.

[0073] C-glycosides of formula I that can be used to implement the invention, particularly those in which R represents C1-C6, especially C1-C4, preferably C1-C2, saturated straight-chain alkyl, more preferably methyl.

[0074] Among the alkyl groups suitable for carrying out the invention, methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, and cyclohexyl may be particularly mentioned.

[0075] C-glycoside derivatives conforming to formula (I) may also be used, wherein S may represent a pyranose and / or furanose form containing up to 6 sugar units and a monosaccharide or polysaccharide of type L and / or D, the monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one forced free hydroxyl functional group and / or optionally one or more forced protected amine functional groups, and X and R retain all previously given definitions.

[0076] Advantageously, the monosaccharide according to the invention may be selected from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lythose, L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, and advantageously represents D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and especially D-xylose.

[0077] More specifically, the polysaccharide according to the invention containing up to 6 sugar units can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid associated with hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, oligosaccharides containing at least one xylose, wherein the xylose is advantageously selected from xylobiose, methyl-β-xylobiose, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xypentose and xyhexaose, particularly xylobiose composed of two xylose molecules bonded by a 1-4 bond.

[0078] More specifically, S can represent a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose, and especially D-xylose.

[0079] Preferably, a C-glycoside derivative conforming to formula (I) is used, wherein: -R indicates C1-C4, especially C1-C2, unsubstituted straight-chain alkyl, especially methyl; -S represents the monosaccharide as described above, preferably D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, especially D-xylose; -X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, and -CH(NH2)-, with -CH(OH)- being preferred.

[0080] Salts acceptable for non-therapeutic use of the compounds described in this invention include conventional, non-toxic salts of these compounds, such as salts formed from organic or inorganic acids. Salts of inorganic acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, and boric acid, may be mentioned as examples. Organic acid salts, which may comprise one or more carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, or phosphonic acid groups, may also be mentioned. They may consist of straight-chain, branched, or cyclic aliphatic acids or, in fact, aromatic acids. These acids may further comprise one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example, in the form of a hydroxyl group. Propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may be specifically mentioned.

[0081] When the compound of formula (I) includes an acid group, neutralization of the acid group can be carried out by an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2, or Zn(OH)2; or by an organic base such as a primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine, such as triethylamine or butylamine. The primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine may include one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms, and therefore may include, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine, dimethylamino-2-propanol, and 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol may be specifically mentioned. Lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine may also be mentioned.

[0082] Acceptable solvates for the compounds described in this invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final preparation steps of the compounds due to the presence of a solvent. For example, solvates formed due to the presence of water or straight-chain or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol may be mentioned.

[0083] Among the C-glycoside derivatives according to formula (I) used according to the present invention, the following are particularly considered: 1. C-β-D-xylanopyranoside-n-propane-2-one; 2. C-α-D-xylanopyranoside-n-propane-2-one; 3,1-[2-(3-hydroxy-propylamino)-propyl]-C-β-D-xylanose; 4,1-[2-(3-hydroxy-propylamino)-propyl]-C-α-D-xylanose; 5. C-β-D-xylanopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; 6. C-α-D-xylanopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane; 7. C-β-D-xylanopyranoside-2-amino-propane; 8. C-α-D-xylanopyranoside-2-amino-propane; 9. C-β-D-xylanopyranoside-2-phenylamino-propane; 10. C-α-D-xylanopyranoside-2-phenylamino-propane; 11.3-Methyl-4-(C-β-D-xylanopyranoside)-ethyl butyrate; 12,3-Methyl-4-(C-α-D-xylanopyranoside)-ethyl butyrate; 13,6-(C-β-D-xylanopyranoside)-5-ketohexanoic acid; 14,6-(C-α-D-xylanopyranoside)-5-ketohexanoic acid; 15,6-(C-β-D-xylanopyranoside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 16,6-(C-α-D-xylanopyranoside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 17.6-(C-β-D-xylanopyranoside)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 18,6-(C-α-D-xylanopyranoside)-5-amino-hexanoic acid; 19.6-(C-β-D-xylanopyranoside)-5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid; 20,6-(C-α-D-xylanopyranoside)-5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid; 21,1-(C-β-D-xylanopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol; 22.1-(C-α-D-xylanopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol; 23,5-(C-β-D-xylanopyranoside)-4-keto-valeric acid; 24,5-(C-α-D-xylanopyranoside)-4-keto-valeric acid; 25,5-(C-β-D-xylanopyranoside)-4-hydroxyvalerate; 26,5-(C-α-D-xylanopyranoside)-4-hydroxyvalerate; 27.5-(C-β-D-xylanopyranoside)-4-aminovaleric acid; 28.5-(C-α-D-xylanopyranoside)-4-aminovaleric acid; 29.5-(C-β-D-xylanopyranoside)-4-phenylamino-valeric acid; 30.5-(C-α-D-xylanopyranoside)-4-phenylamino-valeric acid; 31.1-(C-β-D-xylanopyranoside)-pentane-2,5-diol; 32.1-(C-α-D-xylanopyranoside)-pentane-2,5-diol; 33.1-(C-β-D-pyranofucoloside)-propane-2-one; 34.1-(C-α-D-pyranofucoloside)-propane-2-one; 35.1-(C-β-L-pyranofucoloside)-propane-2-one; 36.1-(C-α-L-pyranofucoloside)-propane-2-one; 37.1-(C-β-D-pyranofucoloside)-2-hydroxypropane; 38.1-(C-α-D-pyranofucoside)-2-hydroxypropane; 39.1-(C-β-L-pyranofucoside)-2-hydroxypropane; 40.1-(C-α-L-pyranofucoside)-2-hydroxypropane; 41.1-(C-β-D-pyranofucoloside)-2-amino-propane; 42.1-(C-α-D-pyranofucoloside)-2-amino-propane; 43.1-(C-β-L-pyranofucoloside)-2-amino-propane; 44.1-(C-α-L-pyranofucoside)-2-amino-propane; 45.1-(C-β-D-pyranofucoloside)-2-phenylamino-propane; 46.1-(C-α-D-pyranofucoloside)-2-phenylamino-propane; 47.1-(C-β-L-pyranofucoside)-2-phenylamino-propane; 48.1-(C-α-L-pyranofucoside)-2-phenylamino-propane; 49.3-Methyl-4-(C-β-D-pyranofucroside)-ethyl butyrate; 50. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(C-α-D-pyranofucoloside)-butyrate; 51.3-Methyl-4-(C-β-L-pyranofucoloside)-ethyl butyrate; 52.3-Methyl-4-(C-α-L-pyranofucoloside)-ethyl butyrate; 53,6-(C-β-D-pyranofucoloside)-5-ketohexanoic acid; 54,6-(C-α-D-pyranofucoloside)-5-ketohexanoic acid; 55.6-(C-β-L-pyranofucoloside)-5-ketohexanoic acid; 56,6-(C-α-L-pyranofucoloside)-5-ketohexanoic acid; 57.6-(C-β-D-pyranofucoloside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 58.6-(C-α-D-pyranofucoloside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 59.6-(C-β-L-pyranofucoloside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 60,6-(C-α-L-pyranofucoloside)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 61,6-(C-β-D-pyranofucoloside)-5-amino-hexanoic acid; 62,6-(C-α-D-pyranofucoloside)-5-amino-hexanoic acid; 63,6-(C-β-L-pyranofucoloside)-5-amino-hexanoic acid; 64,6-(C-α-L-pyranofucoloside)-5-amino-hexanoic acid; 65.1-(C-β-D-pyranofucoloside)-hexane-2,6-diol; 66.1-(C-α-D-pyranofucoloside)-hexane-2,6-diol; 67.1-(C-β-L-pyranofucoloside)-hexane-2,6-diol; 68.1-(C-α-L-pyranofucoloside)-hexane-2,6-diol; 69.5-(C-β-D-pyranofucoloside)-4-keto-valeric acid; 70.5-(C-α-D-pyranofucoloside)-4-keto-valeric acid; 71.5-(C-β-L-pyranofucoloside)-hexane-2,6-diol)-4-keto-valeric acid; 72.5-(C-α-L-pyranofucoloside)-hexane-2,6-diol)-4-keto-valeric acid; 73.5-(C-β-D-pyranofucoloside)-4-hydroxyvalerate; 74.5-(C-α-D-pyranofucoloside)-4-hydroxyvalerate; 75.5-(C-β-L-pyranofucoloside)-4-hydroxyvalerate; 76.5-(C-α-L-pyranofucoloside)-4-hydroxyvalerate; 77.5-(C-β-D-pyranofucoloside)-4-aminopentanoic acid; 78.5-(C-α-D-pyranofucoloside)-4-aminovaleric acid 79.5-(C-β-L-pyranofucoloside)-4-aminovaleric acid; 80.5-(C-α-L-pyranofucoloside)-4-amino-valeric acid; 81.1-(C-β-D-pyranofucoloside)-pentane-2,5-diol; 82.1-(C-α-D-pyranofucoloside)-pentane-2,5-diol; 83.1-(C-β-L-pyranofucoloside)-pentane-2,5-diol; 84.1-(C-α-L-pyranofucoloside)-pentane-2,5-diol; 85.1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 86.1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 87.1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 88.1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 89.1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phenylamino-propane; 90.1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phenylamino-propane; 91.3-Methyl-4-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-butyrate ethyl ester; 92.3-Methyl-4-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-butyrate ethyl ester; 93.6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-ketohexanoic acid; 94.6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-ketohexanoic acid; 95.6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 96,6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 97.6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 98.6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 99.6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid; 100.6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid; 101.1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol; 102.1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol; 103.6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-keto-valeric acid; 104.6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-keto-valeric acid; 105.6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyvalerate; 106,6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyvalerate; 107.6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminovaleric acid; 108.6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyvalerate; 109.6-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminovaleric acid; 110.6-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylaminovaleric acid; 111.1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-pentane-2,5-diol; 112.1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-pentane-2,5-diol; 113.1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 114.1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 115.1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 116.1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 117.1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-phenylamino-propane; 118.1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-phenylamino-propane; 119. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(β-D-galactopyranosyl)-butyrate; 120. Ethyl 3-methyl-4-(α-D-galactopyranosyl)-butyrate; 121.6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-ketohexanoic acid; 122.6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-ketohexanoic acid; 123.6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 124,6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 125.6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 126.6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 127.6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid; 128.6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid; 129.1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol; 130.1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol; 131.6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-keto-valeric acid; 132.6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-keto-valeric acid; 133.6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyvalerate; 134,6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyvalerate; 135.6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-aminopentanoic acid; 136.6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-aminopentanoic acid; 137.6-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-valeric acid; 138.6-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-valeric acid; 139.1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-pentane-2,6-diol; 140.1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-pentane-2,6-diol; 141.1-(C-β-D-furanfucosylosyl)-propane-2-one; 142.1-(C-α-D-furanfucosylosyl)-propane-2-one; 143.1-(C-β-L-furanfucosylosyl)-propane-2-one; 144.1-(C-α-L-furanfucosylosyl)-propane-2-one; 145.3'-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one; 146.3'-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one; 147.1-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 148.1-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane; 149.1-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranoyl)-2-phenylamino-propane; 150.1-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranoyl)-2-phenylamino-propane; 151. Ethyl methyl-4-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranoyl)-butyrate; 152.3-Methyl-4-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranoyl)-butyrate ethyl ester; 153,6-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-ketohexanoic acid; 154,6-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-ketohexanoic acid; 155.6-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 156,6-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 157.6-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminohexanoic acid; 158.6-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino-hexanoic acid; 159.6-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranoyl)-5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid; 160.6-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid; 161.1-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranoyl)-hexane-2,6-diol; 162.1-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol; 163.6-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-keto-valeric acid; 164,6-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-keto-valeric acid; 165.6-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyvalerate; 166,6-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxyvalerate; 167.6-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminovaleric acid; 168.6-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-aminovaleric acid; 169.6-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-valeric acid; 170.6-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-valeric acid; 171.1-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-pentane-2,5-diol; 172.1-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-pentane-2,5-diol.

[0084] Exemplary, and not limiting, more specific C-glycoside derivatives applicable to the present invention may be specifically mentioned in the following compounds: C-β-D-xylanopyranoside-n-propane-2-one, C-α-D-xylanopyranoside-n-propane-2-one, C-β-D-xylanopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-α-D-xylanopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, 1-(C-β-D-pyranofucoloside)-propane-2-one, 1-(C-α-D-pyranofucoloside)-propane-2-one, 1-(C-β-L-pyranofucoloside)-propane-2-one, 1-(C-α-L-pyranofucoloside)-propane-2-one, 1-(C-β-D-pyranofucoloside)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-α-D-pyranofucoloside)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-β-L-pyranofucoside)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-α-L-pyranofucoside)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-β-D-furanfucosylosyl)-propane-2-one, 1-(C-α-D-furanfucosylosyl)-propane-2-one, 1-(C-β-L-furanfucosyl)-propane-2-one, 1-(C-α-L-furanfucosyl)-propane-2-one, C-β-D-malpyranoside-n-propane-2-one, C-α-D-pyranomaltoside-n-propane-2-one, C-β-D-malopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-α-D-pyranomaltoside-2-hydroxypropane, Their isomers or mixtures thereof.

[0085] C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane is preferred, and C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane is even more preferred.

[0086] Preferably, the C-glycoside of formula (I) suitable for use in this invention can advantageously be C-β-D-xylanopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, whose INCI name is hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranotriol. This active agent can be sold in the form of a mixture comprising, for example, 30% by weight of the active substance of hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranotriol relative to the total weight of the mixture, in 60% by weight of water and 40% by weight of propylene glycol.

[0087] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C-glycoside derivative in an amount of 1% to 21% by weight of active substance relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably 2% to 9% by weight of active substance, and more preferably 3% to 7% by weight of active substance.

[0088] Ascorbic acid and its derivatives Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises one of ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof.

[0089] The ascorbic acid according to the invention preferably corresponds to L-ascorbic acid or vitamin C. It has a structure according to formula (II): [Chemical Formula 2] (II) The term "ascorbic acid derivative" preferably refers to compounds selected from the following: 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilyl ascorbate (particularly sold by Exsymol under reference number PRO-AA), DL-α-tocopherol-DL-ascorbic acid-potassium phosphate (sold by SEPPIC under reference number SEPIVITAL EPC), magnesium ascorbate phosphate, sodium ascorbate phosphate (sold by DSM under reference number STAY-C50), disodium ascorbate sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, and ascorbate glucoside.

[0090] Preferably, the ascorbic acid derivative is ascorbate glucoside.

[0091] The term "ascorbate glucoside" refers to the condensation product of D-type (i.e., α- or β-glucanopyranose or α- or β-furanose) or L-type glucose with ascorbic acid (preferably L-type). Preferably, ascorbate glucoside is L-ascorbic acid 2-O-α-D-glucanopyranoside, particularly available from HAYASHIBARA.

[0092] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises ascorbic acid, preferably L-ascorbic acid, or ascorbate glucoside.

[0093] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises 1% to 15% by weight of one of the ascorbic acid or its derivatives, more preferably 1% to 10% by weight of the active substance, and more particularly 1.5% to 5% by weight of the active substance, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] acceptable media for cosmetics The compositions according to the present invention comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium.

[0095] "Cosmetic-acceptable media" refers to media that are compatible with skin, mucous membranes and / or skin appendages.

[0096] The compositions according to the invention can be in any galen form commonly used for topical application, particularly as aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using microspheres, which may consist of ionic and / or nonionic lipid vesicles (liposomes, vesicles, oleosomes). These compositions are prepared using conventional methods.

[0097] The compositions according to the invention can also be in anhydrous form, such as in the form of oil. "Anhydrous composition" means containing less than 1% by weight of water or less than 0.5% water, and in particular, a composition that does not contain water during the preparation of the composition, but corresponds to the residual water provided by the mixed components.

[0098] Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of gels, emulsions, powders, or pastes.

[0099] Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, ointment, lotion, lotion, serum, paste, foaming gel, care agent, tonic, or foam. It can be applied to the skin in the form of a spray. It can also be in solid form, such as a stick.

[0100] When the composition used according to the invention includes an oil phase, the latter preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fats.

[0101] As an oil suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention, examples may be mentioned, such as: - Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; - Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides having 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic acid or caprylic acid triglycerides, or such as sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia nut oil, macaw oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or by CREMER OLEO under the trade names Miglyol “810”, “812” and “818”, jojoba oil, shea butter; - Esters and synthetic esters, particularly fatty acid esters and synthetic esters, such as oils having the formulas RCOOR2 and ROR2, where R is a fatty acid residue comprising 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearate isostearate; hydroxy esters, such as isostearate lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearate malate, triisohexadecyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, and decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate. - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polybutene, such as Parleam oil; - Fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; - Fluorinated oils containing some hydrocarbons and / or siloxanes, such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; - Silicone oils, such as polymethylsiloxane (PDMS), optionally volatile silicone oils having linear or cyclic siloxane chains, which are liquid or paste at ambient temperature, particularly cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethylsiloxanes), such as cyclohexylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes, including alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl side groups or silicon chain end groups, having groups having 2-24 carbon atoms; phenylsiloxanes, such as phenyltrimethylsiloxane, phenyldimethylsiloxane, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethylsiloxane, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, and polymethylphenylsiloxane, etc. - and its mixtures.

[0102] The term "hydrocarbon oil" in the above list of oils refers to any oil that primarily contains carbon and hydrogen atoms, as well as optional ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid, and / or alcohol groups.

[0103] Other fats that may be present in the oil phase include, for example, fatty acids comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, and oleic acid; waxes, such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, mineral wax or ceresin wax; synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene wax and Fischer-Tropsch wax; silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyl polydimethylsiloxane and trifluoropropyl polydimethylsiloxane; and silicone elastomers, such as products sold by Shin-Etsu under the trade name "KSG", by Dow Corning under the trade names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX", or by Grant Industries under the trade name "Gransil".

[0104] These fats can be selected by those skilled in the art in various ways to prepare compositions having the desired properties (e.g., consistency or texture properties).

[0105] The composition may contain at least one emulsifier, particularly selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic, or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or in mixtures, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifier is appropriately selected based on the resulting emulsion (water-in-oil or oil-in-water). Typically, the emulsifier and co-emulsifier are present in the composition at a ratio of 0.3-30% by weight, preferably 0.5-20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] The compositions according to the invention may also contain ingredients commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, fragrances, fillers, waxes, pasty fats, sunscreen or UV filters, odor absorbers, dyes, alkaline reagents, acids, chelating agents, polyols, nonionic, anionic or cationic surfactants.

[0107] The compositions according to the invention may obviously contain other barrier activators and / or other hydrating activators different from the extracts of the invention.

[0108] The amounts of these various components are typically those used in the field under consideration, for example, 0.01-20% of the total weight of the composition. These components, depending on their properties, can be introduced into the aliphatic phase and / or lipid vesicles in the aqueous phase.

[0109] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one aqueous phase. The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other organic solvents that are soluble or miscible with water. The aqueous phase suitable for use in the invention may, for example, comprise water selected from natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay, Vittel, or Vichy water, or floral water.

[0110] Obviously, those skilled in the art will carefully select the optional compounds and their amounts to be added to the compositions according to the invention, so that the advantageous properties inherent to the compositions according to the invention are not altered or substantially unchanged by the contemplated addition.

[0111] As described above, the present invention also relates to the use of such compositions for enhancing barrier function and / or enhancing skin hydration.

[0112] Typically, by enhancing barrier function, the composition also improves skin quality and / or skin tone radiance.

[0113] The present invention also relates to the use of this composition for enhancing skin firmness.

[0114] The present invention also relates to non-therapeutic cosmetic methods for caring for keratin materials such as skin, comprising topically applying at least one composition according to the invention to these keratin materials. More specifically, the present invention relates to cosmetic treatment methods as defined above for enhancing and / or strengthening the skin barrier function, particularly helping to maintain skin with a good quality barrier function.

[0115] The method according to the invention may include repeated application, for example, once to three times daily for one or several days, preferably once to two times daily, particularly over an extended period of at least four weeks or four to fifteen weeks, with one or more intervals where applicable. According to one embodiment, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention may include a single application. Preferably, the method according to the invention will include topical application of the composition according to the invention to the skin, particularly to the facial skin.

[0116] Specific, but non-limiting, embodiments illustrating the invention will now be provided. Detailed Implementation

[0117] Example I- The effect of the composition according to the present invention on barrier function Example 1: Tight junction protein-1 Tight junction proteins are the main components of the tight junction complex that regulates epithelial permeability.

[0118] Materials and methods: Keratinocytes were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured in medium for 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with different combinations of test compounds or components (control group) or a reference (1.5 mM CaCl2 for tight junction protein-1) and incubated for 72 hours. All experimental conditions were performed at n=3. At the end of incubation, cells were washed with PBS, fixed, and permeabilized. Cells were then labeled with a specific primary antibody (anti-tight junction protein-1, Santa Cruz #SC-81796). The primary antibody was then detected with a suitable fluorescent secondary antibody (GAM-Alexa488, Invitrogen #A11001), and cell nuclei were stained in parallel using Hoechst 33258 solution (bis(benzyl)imine, Sigma, #B1155). Image acquisition was performed using an INCell Analyzer™ 2200 automated microscope (GE Healthcare) with high resolution imaging. Five images (x20 lens) were taken for each well. Quantitative labeling was performed by measuring the fluorescence intensity of each normalized protein at the total number of cell nuclei identified by Hoechst 33258 staining (integrated with numerical data from Developer Toolbox 1.5, GE Healthcare software).

[0119] result: The trio according to the invention, tested at low concentrations (i.e., “trio” of 0.017% Symreboot L19, 0.0335% Energinius, and 0.0135% Kalmethic, 0.067% ascorbate glucoside (Vit CG), and 0.167% hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranoside (HT) diluted to 35%), significantly stimulated tight junction protein-1 expression, whereas none of these components showed significant effects when tested individually. Furthermore, the combined effect was significantly greater than the sum of the individual effects, demonstrating a significantly greater effect among hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranoside, ascorbate glucoside, and trio.

[0120] [Table 1]

[0121] Example 2: ZO-1 Materials and methods: At 1.5 mM, CaCl2 significantly stimulated the expression of all markers involved in keratinocyte differentiation (exidermal proteins, loricrin, TGK, and filaggrin) and key markers involved in tight junction proteins (claudin-1 and ZO-1). This pro-differentiation effect of CaCl2 was expected and validated the test results.

[0122] result: As shown in the table below, the trio of the present invention stimulates ZO-1 expression; however, this is not the case for all compounds, even in pairs.

[0123] [Table 2]

[0124] [Table 3]

[0125] Statistical significance threshold: ns: >0.05, not significant *: 0.01 to 0.05, significant. **: 0.001 to 0.01, highly significant ***: <0.001, highly significant Therefore, there is a significant link between tight junction proteins and barrier function.

[0126] Example 3: Results of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after barrier function stripping Materials and methods: The efficacy of formulation F according to the present invention, containing the trio combination (0.4% active ingredient of Terminalia chebula extract, 0.1% active ingredient of Lactobacillus extract, and 0.07% active ingredient of Solanum nigrum extract), ascorbate glucoside (2% active ingredient), and hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyranotriol (6.3% active ingredient), in a medium specifically containing water and glycerin, was confirmed by a TEWL test after peeling under the following conditions: 24 women aged 18 to 63 (mean age: 47 ± 13 years): - TEWL value of the anterior surface of the forearm after peeling ≥ 6 g, m⁻², h⁻¹ - The TEWL value of the anterior surface of the forearm after peeling is ≥20 g, m-², h-1.

[0127] result: The results are shown in the table below.

[0128] [Table 4]

[0129] Under experimental conditions, a single application of formulation F according to the invention to the skin of the forearm significantly reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) approximately 6 hours after peeling, demonstrating a repair effect against water loss.

[0130] Formula F contains ingredients with a good wilderness quality index and / or natural, especially plant-based, origins.

[0131] II - Effect of the composition according to the invention on skin firmness Example 4: Sulfated GAG Materials and methods: Normal human fibroblasts were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured in medium for 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with different combinations of medium containing or without (control group) a reference (10 ng / ml TGF-β) or test compounds or components, and the cells were incubated for 72 hours. [35S]-sulfate was added to the medium for a final 24-hour incubation. All experimental conditions were performed at n=3. At the end of incubation, glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) were extracted from the cells using a dissociation buffer. GAGs were then purified by ion-exchange chromatography: anionic molecules were adsorbed onto Q-agarose beads, and weak and moderate anionic molecules were desorbed using a specific buffer. Radioactivity in the molecules bound to the substrate was then measured by liquid scintillation.

[0132] result: As shown in the table below, hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranotriol diluted to 35% (tested at 0.1165% and 0.35%) significantly stimulated the synthesis of sulfated GAGs in human fibroblasts. These results confirm the well-known role of hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranotriol in enhancing skin GAGs.

[0133] Under the experimental conditions of this study, neither the trio of the present invention, nor any of its components tested individually, nor ascorbyl glucoside, nor the combination of trio and ascorbyl glucoside, stimulated new GAG synthesis in human fibroblasts. However, surprisingly, the combination of trio with ascorbyl glucoside and hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranoside significantly increased new GAG synthesis in human fibroblasts. The combined results were greater than those of each active agent tested individually, or greater than the sum of their individual effects. These results clearly demonstrate the synergistic effect of the trio, ascorbyl glucoside, and hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranoside according to the present invention on new GAG synthesis.

[0134] [Table 5]

[0135] [Table 6]

[0136] The contents of the three extracts and HT in Tables 5 and 6 are expressed as commercially available products.

[0137] Example 5: Firmness - Clinical Evaluation Materials and methods: Use the formulation F according to the present invention in Example 3.

[0138] Subjects: 40 Asian women, clinically scored by dermatologists, aged 25 to 60 years, 50% with sensitive skin (reported), signs of facial skin aging, living in urban areas, and with an inclusion level of ≥2 and ≤6 for the following parameter: skin firmness (tactile).

[0139] Usage: Apply twice daily (morning and evening) to the face, neck, and upper chest.

[0140] The following methods were used for evaluation: - Clinical scoring: A 10-point scale (0: none to 9: severe) was used at D0, D7, D28, and D56 (N=40).

[0141] - Self-assessment questionnaires for D0, D1 (after initial awakening), D7, D14, D28, and D56 (N=57).

[0142] - Spontaneous tolerance report Illustrations for D0, D28, and D56 (N=40) result: The clinical firming scores in the table below demonstrate the effectiveness of the formula: [Table 7]

[0143] Example 6: Consumer self-assessment Materials and methods: Use the formulation F according to the present invention in Example 3.

[0144] Subjects: See table below, gender and race, 25 to 60 years old, 50% with sensitive skin (reported), signs of skin aging on the face, living in urban areas, and inclusion level ≥2 and ≤6 for the following parameter: skin firmness (touch).

[0145] Usage: Apply twice daily (morning and evening) to the face, neck, and upper chest.

[0146] Formula effectiveness: Consumer self-assessment.

[0147] Assessment method: Self-assessment questionnaire: 5-point scale / After 1, 2, 4 and 8 weeks of application, respondents answered "agree" and "somewhat agree" to the following question: "My skin is firmer".

[0148] result: The results are as follows: [Table 8]

[0149] Therefore, consumers rated Formula F as enhancing skin firmness.

Claims

1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: - at least one Withania somnifera extract; - at least one Terminalia ferdinandiana extract; and - at least one Lactobacillus extract.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein, The Withania somnifera extract is an extract of a part of the plant selected from the group comprising roots, fruits, flowers, seeds, leaves, stems, preferably the Withania somnifera extract is a root extract, advantageously dried and ground.

3. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The Withania somnifera extract is obtained by an extraction process comprising a step of solid / liquid extraction of at least one part of the plant, followed by a second step of solid / liquid separation, and finally a third step of recovery of the liquid phase, the process using as solvent a mixture of fructose, glycerol and optionally water.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The Withania somnifera is present in the composition according to the application in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The Terminalia ferdinandiana extract is an extract of a part of the plant selected from roots, fruits, flowers, seeds, leaves, stems, preferably the Terminalia ferdinandiana extract is a fruit extract.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The Terminalia ferdinandiana extract is obtained by a process of cold extraction of at least one part of the plant, in particular under pressure.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The Terminalia ferdinandiana extract is present in the composition according to the application in a content ranging from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.03 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The lactobacillus extract is a Lactobacillus plantarum (L. plantarum) L. plantarum ) extract, preferably the lactobacillus extract is a Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL 19 (DSM 15313) extract, preferably the lactobacillus extract is formulated with a prebiotic, preferably maltodextrin.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The Lactobacillus extract is present in the composition according to the application in a content ranging from 0.001 to 1%, preferably from 0.01 to 0.8% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one C-glycoside according to the following general formula (I) and the physiologically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and optical and geometric isomers thereof: [Chemical Formula 1] (I) wherein: - R represents a C1-C10, in particular C1-C4, saturated linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with at least one group selected from OH, COOH or COOR"2, wherein R"2 is a saturated C1-C4 alkyl group; - X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)-, in particular a -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- group, preferably a -CH(OH)- group; - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide being a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide in pyranose and / or furanose form and in L and / or D form, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide being optionally substituted with a strongly free hydroxyl group and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functions, and - A represents a C1-C10, in particular C1-C4, saturated linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with at least one group selected from OH, COOH or COOR"2, wherein R"2 is a saturated C1-C4 alkyl group. - the bond S-CH2-X represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be alpha or beta.

11. The composition of claim 10, wherein, said C-glycoside is selected from the group consisting of: C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-ketone, C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-ketone, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-beta-D-xylopyranoside)-propane-2-ketone, 1 -(C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside)-propane-2-ketone, 1 -(C-beta-L-xylopyranoside)-propane-2-ketone, 1 -(C-alpha-L-xylopyranoside)-propane-2-ketone, 1 -(C-beta-D-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-beta-L-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-alpha-L-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-beta-D-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-beta-D-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-beta-D-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-beta-D-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane 1 -(C-beta-D-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-beta-L-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 1 -(C-alpha-L-xylopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, C-beta-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-ketone, C-alpha-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-ketone, C-beta-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, 12. The composition of claim 10 or 11, wherein, C-alpha-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, their isomers or mixtures thereof, preferably, the C-glycoside is selected from the group consisting of C-beta-D- xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and C-alpha-D xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy- propane, preferably, the C-glycoside is C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane. said C-glycoside is present in said composition in an amount of 1 to 21 wt.% of active substance, preferably 2 to 9 wt.% of active substance, preferably 3 to 7 wt.% of active substance, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, preferably the ascorbic acid derivative is selected from the group consisting of 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilyl ascorbate, DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate-potassium salt, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfoxy-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside.

14. The composition of claim 13, wherein, Said ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives is present in the composition in a content of between 1% and 15% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, preferably between 1% and 10% by weight of active substance, more particularly between 1.5% and 5% by weight of active substance, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Use of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims for reinforcing the barrier function and / or for reinforcing the hydration of the skin.

16. Use of the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 for reinforcing the firmness of the skin.

17. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising the local application to these keratin materials of at least one composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14.

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