Hair care composition
A silicone-free hair care composition using hydrogenated lecithin, coemulsifiers, and aliphatic alcohols in an emulsion form, addresses the limitations of silicone-based products by effectively protecting and moisturizing hair, enhancing its structure and appearance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2025558720
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-04-18
- Filing Date
- 2024-04-17
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-16
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair care compositions that aim to protect and moisturize hair often rely on silicones, which can weigh down hair, cause build-up, and have environmental concerns, while silicone-free alternatives do not effectively provide the desired benefits.
A hair cosmetic composition comprising hydrogenated lecithin, a coemulsifier, a gelling agent, and an aliphatic alcohol, without silicones, forms an emulsion with an aqueous and fatty phase, providing excellent moisturizing and protective properties.
The composition effectively protects and moisturizes hair, maintaining its structure, visual properties, and biomechanical integrity, while avoiding the drawbacks of silicones, suitable for all hair types including dry and damaged hair.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic composition of the hair composition type, i.e., intended for the care of hair and / or the scalp by topical application. The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of such a composition for the care of hair and / or the scalp. The present invention further relates to a method for the cosmetic care of hair and / or the scalp using such a composition.
Background Art
[0002] Hair care compositions are of many types, such as conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks, or serums, etc. These compositions can take the form of gels, hair lotions, or somewhat thick care creams, etc.
[0003] [[ID=I5]] Hair is composed of 95% keratin (fibrous protein). Since keratin is insoluble in water, it ensures the impermeability of hair and provides protection. The hair structure is divided into the following three parts: - Medulla: The central part of the hair shaft, composed of an amorphous, soft, and fatty substance; - Cuticle: The external protective layer containing the essential nutrient supply part for hair generation, highly keratinized, and composed of cells in the form of scales that overlap each other; [ - Cortex: The main component of hair, where long keratin chains that give hair elasticity, suppleness, and strength are seen. The cells of the cortex are bound by an intercellular cement rich in lipids and proteins.
[0004] Keratin has a certain affinity for water. Therefore, in the saturated state, hair absorbs about 30 - 40% of its weight of water. The absorption rate depends on the relative humidity of the surrounding environment and affects hair shaping. This is because keratin fibers have physical properties that change depending on the presence of moisture, such as length and / or diameter.
[0005] Hair is permeable to water in both vapor and liquid states. Water binds to keratin by forming hydrogen bonds. When water is absorbed through the cuticle and then the cortex, swelling occurs in the hair rather than elongation. Thermal equilibrium is also an influencing factor, as rising temperature promotes water penetration and thus facilitates hair hydration.
[0006] The cuticle surface is relatively permeable to small molecules of the external medium and is described as porous. If left intact, it functions as a barrier, but only against macromolecules, not against water.
[0007] Dry hair can be recognized by its overall dull appearance and rough texture. Also known as dehydrated hair, dry hair is characterized by its dull, brittle, and fuzzy (foamy) appearance and its tendency to swell easily upon contact with moisture. Its overall appearance is often unruly, and dry hair is frequently difficult to style and position. Dry hair results from insufficient sebum production by the sebaceous glands and a lack of moisture in the hydrolipid film. The hydrolipid film protects the scalp, covers and spreads over the hair, and helps lubricate the hair. Therefore, dryness and dehydration of the scalp and hair impair protection and lubrication. Thus, the hair shaft first undergoes cuticle alteration, followed by alteration of the inside of the fibers. This deterioration of the hair shaft manifests as changes in the shape and position of the raised scales, gradual disappearance of the cuticle, and subsequent damage to the cortex keratin (which loses elasticity).
[0008] Dry hair can be caused by a genetic predisposition due to insufficient sebum secretion, but it can also be the result of various stressors.
[0009] This phenomenon intensifies as we get older.
[0010] Constitutional causes of dry hair include genetic causes such as trichorrhizosis, split ends, unstyleable hair syndrome, hereditary kinky hair, and nodular split ends. Other endogenous causes can also contribute to dry hair, including thyroid disorders such as hypothyroidism or pituitary dysfunction, which can lead to hypolipidemia, and menopausal symptoms, which can cause brittle hair and dryness due to decreased sebum secretion.
[0011] However, the majority of the causes are extrinsic, and hair dryness is a result of various attacks.
[0012] Aggressive environmental conditions, such as rain, wind, sun, rapid changes in temperature and / or humidity, sea salt, chlorine or pool salt, pollution, and tobacco, can damage the structure of hair. Aggressive chemical treatments, such as shampoos, cosmetic makeup products, coloring, bleaching, perming, and / or styling, as well as physical treatments, such as heat from hair dryers and straighteners, and friction during brushing, can also damage hair. Furthermore, biological attacks, such as bacteria and fungi, can damage hair through the oxidative stress they cause.
[0013] Therefore, these aggressive conditions and / or agents alter the hair, particularly at the cuticle level, and this alteration extends to scale lifting. Subsequently, the hair weakens. Scales peel off the surface of the hair over time, and / or depending on the repeated and / or intensity of the attack. When damaged, hair loses its structure, and / or its visual and / or biomechanical properties. Thus, damaged hair, especially dry, rough, and therefore less flexible hair, is more difficult to style and shape compared to undamaged hair, and is particularly brittle and prone to splitting. This loss of surface quality of the hair is visible and unaesthetic. In fact, the hair also reflects less light, visibly losing its shine and luster.
[0014] In normal, or not-too-dry, hair, a reduction in the number of cuticle layers is observed from root to tip. These layers have a uniform appearance at the root, but are eroded towards the tip, becoming serrated at the edges and peeling away from the hair shaft. In long hair, it is common for the cuticle to disappear at the ends, exposing the cortex. Subsequently, the hair is affected by swallowtail-shaped breaks, more commonly known as split ends, which are also considered damage.
[0015] Therefore, cosmetic approaches to caring for hair, especially dry and / or damaged hair, include protecting and strengthening the hair's structure by moisturizing it, restoring its integrity and / or visual properties (e.g., its flexibility and / or silkiness, its luster and / or shine), and / or its biomechanical properties (e.g., physical strength, heat resistance, vitality and / or strength, etc.), and facilitating styling and / or shaping.
[0016] For this purpose, many hair care compositions proposed in the prior art contain silicones used as hydrophobic conditioning and film-forming agents. In particular, silicones provide a lubricating effect that promotes the protection of hair fibers, as well as good distribution over the application area of the silicone-containing composition, especially over the length of the hair. Extracts from the Mintel Global New Products (GNPD Mintel) database Nos. 9502692, 8505031, and 8331765 describe such silicone-based (dimethicone) hair compositions. Patent documents 1, 2, and 3 describe silicone (phenyl trimethicone)-based skincare compositions, which are not suitable for use on hair.
[0017] However, silicones have the drawback of weighing down hair by placing a heavy load on it, which is commonly known as "build-up," meaning that hair becomes oily again in a short time, and gives the impression that the strands have not been rinsed properly. Furthermore, it was discovered several years ago that silicones suffocate hair, resulting in damage, making their use in cosmetic hair compositions undesirable. Finally, silicones have also been criticized for their environmental impact.
[0018] Mintel's global new product database entries No. 10598746 and No. 10551190 describe silicone-free hair compositions based on hydrogenated lecithin and either arachidyl glucoside or ascorbyl glucoside, respectively.
[0019] Patent Document 4 describes a sunscreen composition that does not contain silicone and contains hydrogenated lecithin and cetearyl glucoside, but is not suitable for use on hair. Patent Document 5 also describes a cosmetic composition that does not contain silicone and contains hydrogenated lecithin and cetearyl glucoside, but is not suitable for use on hair and has anti-aging effects.
[0020] Patent document 6 describes a cosmetic composition that does not contain silicone and contains hydrogenated lecithin and sodium stearoyl glutamate, but does not describe or suggest its application to hair. The document recommends using the latter component at a concentration of 0.15% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0021] More generally, while numerous ingredients or formulations already exist in cosmetics, particularly those aimed at protecting hair from damage through hydration, there is always a need for alternatives that overcome formulation constraints without using silicones and offer various solutions to the cosmetics market in terms of mode of action, efficacy, and sensation. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]
[0022] [Patent Document 1] U.S. Patent No. 11,529,370 Specification [Patent Document 2] International Publication No. 2019 / 231050 [Patent Document 3] U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2020 / 121722 Specification [Patent Document 4] Chinese Patent No. 109481383 Specification [Patent Document 5] U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2022 / 296497 Specification [Patent Document 6] Korean Patent Publication No. 20200102950 [Non-Patent Document]
[0023] [Non-Patent Document 1] Franca-Stefoni et al., 2015, J. Cosmetic Dermatology vol 14, 204 - 208 [Non-Patent Document 2] Da Gama et al., 2017, Hair Care Cosmetics, vol4, 1 - 10 [Summary of the Invention] [Problems to be Solved by the Invention]
[0024] The present invention aims to provide solutions as described above and enable obtaining all the expected hair care benefits, and particularly to provide a cosmetic hair care composition having good hair protection performance and excellent sensory properties without containing silicone.
[0025] The present invention further aims to ensure that such characteristics can be obtained without using problematic substances. [Means for Solving the Problems]
[0026] Surprisingly, the inventors have discovered that compositions satisfying certain characteristics, particularly those comprising a combination of hydrogenated lecithin, a coemulsifier, a gelling agent, and an aliphatic alcohol, can achieve the above objectives without the presence of silicone.
[0027] Accordingly, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition suitable for topical application, particularly to the hair and / or scalp, for the care of hair and / or scalp, in particular for moisturizing and protection. The composition is in the form of an emulsion and comprises 60 to 99% by weight of an aqueous phase and 1 to 40% by weight of a fatty phase based on the total weight of the composition. The composition is - An emulsifying system comprising 0.1 to 2% by weight of at least one hydrogenated lecithin relative to the total weight of the composition, and 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of at least one coemulsifier selected from sodium stearoyl glutamate or disodium stearoyl glutamate and distearoyl ethyldimonium chloride relative to the total weight of the composition, - At least one gelling agent selected from the group consisting of alginates, carrageenan, cellulose and its derivatives, starch, xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, succinoglucan gum, gellan gum, deutan gum, acacia gum, caesalpinia spinosa gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, acrylates, and mixtures thereof. - At least one aliphatic alcohol selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Includes.
[0028] Furthermore, the composition is silicone-free.
[0029] In the context of the present invention, silicone or polysiloxane conventionally means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer having a linear, and / or cyclic, branched, and / or crosslinked structure obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of functionalized silanes, which essentially consists of repeating main units in which silicon atoms are linked to one another by oxygen atoms, and optionally (particularly with hydroxyl groups) substituted hydrocarbon groups are directly linked to the silicon atoms by carbon atoms. Dimethicone, trimethicone, and their derivatives are examples of silicones not included in the compositions of the present invention.
[0030] In this description, the term "at least one" is equivalent to the term "one or several," and the term "one or several" can be substituted. Therefore, the compositions according to the present invention are -One or more gelling agents selected from the above list (furthermore, one or more gelling agents other than those listed above may be included, but in preferred embodiments of the present invention, such are not included); -and / or one or more aliphatic alcohols selected from the above list (which may include one or more aliphatic alcohols not listed above, but which are excluded in preferred embodiments of the present invention); - The emulsifying system comprises one or more hydrogenated lecithins and / or one or more coemulsifiers selected from the above list; if the emulsifying system comprises a mixture of multiple hydrogenated lecithins, this mixture is included in the composition at a concentration of 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; if the emulsifying system comprises multiple coemulsifiers selected from sodium stearoyl glutamate or disodium stearoyl glutamate and distearoyl ethyldimonium chloride, this mixture is also included in the composition at a concentration of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further contain other substances having emulsifying or surfactant effects in addition to the emulsifying system defined above. Preferably, the composition does not contain such other substances, or contains such other substances in an amount of less than 0.5% of the total weight of the composition.
[0032] In particular, the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably of a type that is specifically intended to care for the hair and / or scalp rather than to cleanse it. Therefore, the composition preferably does not contain substances having cleansing and / or foaming properties such as soap, i.e., products derived from saponification reactions, or synthetic detergents, synthetic surfactants, and, more generally, any substances having surfactant properties.
[0033] As described above, the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention has excellent properties in moisturizing the hair and protecting it from external attacks. This property is exercised by protecting the structure, visual properties (i.e., appearance), and biomechanical properties of the hair, particularly with respect to mechanical, biological, chemical, and environmental attacks. These beneficial effects work on all types of hair, including dry hair, damaged hair, and dry damaged hair. The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention is advantageous in that it particularly helps to maintain and / or increase the vitality of the hair, and tighten the hair scales.
[0034] The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, that is, a form comprising an oil phase that is uniformly dispersed in an aqueous phase, and this dispersion is ensured by an emulsifying system contained in the composition.
[0035] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the aqueous phase is 65-99%, 70-99%, 75-99%, 80-99%, 85-99%, 60-95%, 65-95%, 70-95%, 75-95%, 80-95%, 85-95%, 60-90%, 65-90%, 70-90%, 75-90%, 80-90%, or 85-90% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0036] The oil phase is preferably 1-35%, 1-30%, 1-25%, 1-20%, 1-15%, 5-40%, 5-35%, 5-30%, 5-25%, 5-20%, 5-15%, 10-40%, 10-35%, 10-30%, 10-25%, 10-20%, or 10-15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0037] The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention preferably contains at least 60% by weight of water, more preferably at least 70% by weight of water, preferredly at least 75% by weight of water, even more preferably at least 80% by weight of water, and even more preferably at least 85% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0038] According to the present invention, the emulsifying system comprises one or more hydrogenated lecithins and one or more coemulsifiers selected from sodium stearoyl glutamate or disodium stearoyl glutamate and distearoylethyldimonium chloride.
[0039] Hydrogenated lecithin is usually obtained by the controlled hydrogenation of non-hydrogenated lecithin. Non-hydrogenated lecithin that produces hydrogenated lecithin usable in the invention can be obtained from animal or plant sources, such as soybeans, sunflowers, eggs, and / or mixtures thereof. The glycerophospholipids present in high proportions in such lecithin are mainly phosphatidylcholine and phosphatidylethanolamine. Preferably, non-hydrogenated lecithin is of plant origin, particularly soybean origin.
[0040] Lecithin is typically provided dissolved in fatty acids, triglycerides, or other solvents, or as a powder or in bread form.
[0041] Examples of hydrogenated lecithin that can be used in the composition according to the present invention include that sold by supplier Lucas Meyer Cosmetics under the name Emulmetik® 320IP.
[0042] In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the total content of hydrogenated lecithin in the composition is 0.2 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0043] In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the emulsifying system contains at least sodium stearoyl glutamate as a coemulsifier. Preferably, sodium stearoyl glutamate is the only coemulsifier included in the emulsifying system of the composition.
[0044] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the total content of the composition in the coemulsifier selected from sodium stearoyl glutamate or disodium stearoyl glutamate and distearoylethyldimonium chloride is 0.5 to 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0045] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the emulsifying system of the composition according to the present invention contains sodium stearoyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate as coemulsifiers at a total concentration of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0046] In certain alternative embodiments of the present invention, the emulsifying system of the composition according to the present invention contains sodium stearoyl glutamate and distearoylethyldimonium chloride as coemulsifiers at a total concentration of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the emulsifying system of the composition according to the present invention contains sodium stearoyl glutamate as the sole coemulsifier selected from the above list at a concentration of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0047] The composition according to the present invention may further optionally comprise at least one alkyl polyglucoside. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one alkyl polyglucoside in a mixture with sodium stearoyl glutamate.
[0048] The content of alkyl polyglucoside in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0049] Examples of alkyl polyglucosides included in the composition according to the present invention include compounds whose alkyl radical contains 12 to 20 carbon atoms, such as compounds with the INCI names cetearyl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, coco glucoside, and C12-C20 alkyl glucoside.
[0050] The composition according to the present invention may contain one or more gelling agents other than alginates, carrageenan, cellulose and its derivatives, starches, acrylates, and gums, particularly xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, succinoglucan gum, gellan gum, deutan gum, acacia gum, caesalpinia spinosa gum, locust bean gum, and tamarind gum. Preferably, the composition does not contain any gelling agents other than those mentioned above.
[0051] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention contains at least one gelling agent selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, carrageenan, gellan gum, deutan gum, caesalpinia spinosa gum, or any mixture thereof.
[0052] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the total content of the gelling agent in the composition is 0.3 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, or 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0053] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one aliphatic alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol, or any mixture thereof.
[0054] The composition may further contain other aliphatic alcohols, for example, those having a lipophilic group having a carbon chain of more than eight carbon atoms, for example, 8 to 50 carbon atoms, 8 to 40 carbon atoms, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, 8 to 22 carbon atoms, 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or more specifically, 12 to 18 carbon atoms (including all and minor ranges). Therefore, the carbon chain of the aliphatic alcohol may contain, for example, 10 to 20 carbon atoms or 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Aliphatic alcohols usable in the composition according to the present invention may be selected from polyethylene glycol ethers, for example, those having a hydroxyl group with a carbon chain of 12 to 16 or 12 to 14 carbon atoms. The carbon chain is preferably saturated, for example, of the stearyl, lauryl, cetyl, or cetearyl type, but otherwise may be unsaturated, for example, of the oleyl type. Non-limiting examples of aliphatic alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0055] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the total content of aliphatic alcohols, preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol, is 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0056] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition does not contain a conditioning agent.
[0057] In a particularly preferred alternative embodiment of the present invention, the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains at least one conditioning agent. For the purposes of the present invention, “conditioning agent” means an agent that makes the hair fibers slippery, thereby making the hair easier to detangle and making the hair more flexible, silky, glossy, and coated.
[0058] In particular, and quite surprisingly, the inventors have discovered that, in addition to giving slipperiness to the hair fibers, the presence of conditioning agents in the composition enhances the protective effect on these fibers, especially the protective effect on hydrogenated lecithin, which is imparted by the emulsifying system of the composition. This synergistic effect is further amplified when the conditioning agent is any of erythritol, arginine, sodium pyroglutamic acid, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, glyceryl oleate, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and distearoylethyldimonium chloride, or a mixture thereof.
[0059] The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention may itself contain any conditioning agent that is in the prior art. Various types of agents can perform this function.
[0060] Cationic surfactants may, for example, have the function of a conditioning agent according to the present invention. Therefore, in certain embodiments of the present invention, at least one cationic surfactant used in the composition is an amide amine, and is particularly selected from brassicaamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyldimethylamine, isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, oleamidopropyldimethylamine, and behenamidopropyldimethylamine.
[0061] Quaternary ammonia can also have the function of a conditioning agent according to the present invention. In certain embodiments of the present invention, at least one quaternary ammonium used in the composition is selected from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and distearoylethyldimonium chloride. Preferably, each of the quaternary ammonium used in the composition has a low environmental impact, such as hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and distearoylethyldimonium chloride.
[0062] One or more conditioning agents that do not belong to the cationic surfactant category or the quaternary ammonia category may be used in the compositions according to the present invention, in particular, selected from isoamyl laurate, lauroyl lysine, erythritol, arginine, glyceryl oleate (e.g., sold under the name DUB® OG), polyglyceryl-4 caprate, guar, sodium pyroglutamic acid, or any mixture thereof.
[0063] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of erythritol, arginine, sodium pyroglutamic acid, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, glyceryl oleate, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition does not contain other conditioning agents.
[0064] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the total content of conditioning agents, particularly those selected from the group consisting of erythritol, arginine, sodium pyroglutamic acid, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, glyceryl oleate, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and distearoylethyldimonium chloride, is 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5% by weight, and more preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0065] In the context of the present invention, a particularly preferred conditioning agent is guar, which is preferably included in the composition in an amount of 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0066] In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the composition contains at least erythritol as a conditioning agent, particularly as the sole conditioning agent, preferably at a concentration of 0.5 to 5% by weight, particularly 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and sodium stearoyl glutamate as a co-emulsifier, particularly as the sole co-emulsifier, preferably at a concentration of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, particularly 0.5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0067] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition contains at least guar as a conditioning agent, particularly as the sole conditioning agent, preferably at a concentration of 0.5 to 5% by weight, particularly 0.5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and sodium stearoyl glutamate as a co-emulsifier, particularly as the sole co-emulsifier, preferably at a concentration of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, particularly 0.5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0068] The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably sulfate-free in order to improve its resistance.
[0069] Furthermore, it is preferable that the product does not contain polyethylene glycol, or contains it in any other form. Polyethylene glycol refers to linear polyethers produced from ethylene glycol monomers with a molar mass of less than 20,000 g / mol.
[0070] While the use of polyethylene glycol is beneficial to hair fibers, particularly due to its water-solubilizing, thickening, emulsifying, and softening properties, this compound is listed as an irritant, can easily cause discomfort to users when applied topically to the scalp, and is criticized from an environmental perspective due to its low biodegradability. As described above, the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention has excellent performance in terms of hair care, and this is true even without the presence of polyethylene glycol.
[0071] In this specification, "not containing" means that the composition does not contain the component, or that the composition contains the component in a negligible or ineffective amount, particularly less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0072] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the hair cosmetic composition does not contain microplastics.
[0073] In the context of this invention, the term "microplastic" refers to synthetic polymer microparticles and the definition given in the proposed amendment to Annex XVII of REACH Regulation (EC) No. 1907 / 2006, D083921 / 01 dated 5 September 2022 ("Commission Regulation (EU)... / ...of XXX amending Annex XVII to Regulation (EC) No. 1907 / 2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) as regards synthetic polymer microparticles", accessible at the following URL: https: / / ec.europa.eu / transparency / comitology-register / screen / documents / 083921 / 1 / consult?lang=en). According to the above document, microplastics, or synthetic polymer microparticles, are defined as solid particles that are either contained within a particle and constitute at least 1% by weight of that particle, or form a continuous surface coating on the particle, and at least 1% by weight of these particles is a polymer that satisfies one of the following conditions: (a) all particle dimensions are 5 mm or less; (b) the particle length is 15 mm or less and the length-to-diameter ratio is greater than 3. The following polymers are not included in this name: (a) Polymers that result from naturally occurring polymerization processes and are not chemically modified substances; (b) Polymers proven to be biodegradable in accordance with Annex [X] of the above document; (c) A polymer proven to have a solubility of 2 g / L in accordance with Annex [Y] of the above document (solubility test in water at pH 7 under stirring at 20°C for 24 hours, polymer load 10 g / 1000 mL, in accordance with the procedure of OECD Guidelines for Chemical Testing No. 120 or No. 105); (d) A polymer whose chemical structure does not contain carbon atoms. Synthetic polymer microparticles that are subject to the exemption specified in 4a of the above-mentioned proposed amendment to Annex XVII are also excluded from this definition.
[0074] More generally, microplastics can be defined as particles whose total dimensions are less than 5 mm and which are formed or coated with water-insoluble and non-biodegradable synthetic solid organic polymers.
[0075] Therefore, in particular, the hair cosmetic composition preferably does not contain polyquaternium, a microplastic that is used in many hair cosmetic compositions proposed in the prior art.
[0076] It is also preferable that it does not contain microplastic acrylates.
[0077] On the other hand, in particular embodiments of the present invention, the hair cosmetic composition comprises one or more non-microplastic acrylates, in particular (INCI name): -Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer -Acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, -Sodium polyacrylate -Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer -Acrylates copolymer, -Polyacrylate-13 -Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer -Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer -Polyacrylamide, -VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer This may include substances selected from the group consisting of the following, which can be used alone or in any mixture thereof.
[0078] In particular, in alternative embodiments of the present invention, the hair cosmetic composition does not contain compounds having acrylate functionality.
[0079] The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further contain one or more activators for cosmetic care of hair and / or scalp, particularly via a topical route. Examples of such activators include soothing agents such as peony extract, volumizing agents such as flaxseed extract, moisturizing agents such as oat extract, color enhancers such as pomegranate extract, color-respecting agents such as chamomile extract to maintain blonde hair color, hair loss inhibitors such as cinchona extract, and sebum regulators such as nettle extract.
[0080] This composition may also contain one or more cosmetic additives commonly used in the art, such as pigments, colorants, inorganic fillers, fragrances, vitamins, natural extracts, preservatives, and pH adjusters. Those skilled in the art will carefully select possible cosmetic additives and their amounts so as not to impair the properties of the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
[0081] Preferably, the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention does not contain any hair coloring agents.
[0082] This composition may contain any excipients that are acceptable as cosmetics. In this description, the term "acceptable as cosmetics" means that the excipient is suitable for use by contact with human and animal cells, particularly skin or hair cells. Preferably, the excipient has a pleasant scent, color, and feel and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort that may interfere with the user of the composition according to the present invention.
[0083] The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in a form suitable for direct topical application to the hair and / or scalp.
[0084] The composition may itself be in any ordinary form for a hair care composition intended for topical administration, in particular, it may be in the form of a conditioner, balm, foam, gel-cream, dispersion, spray, serum, mask, or cream, and may or may not be rinsed.
[0085] The composition preferably favorably protects hair fibers.
[0086] The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be manufactured by any method known to those skilled in the art.
[0087] Another aspect of the present invention is the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention for the care of hair and / or scalp.
[0088] This use includes, in particular, topical application of the composition to the hair and / or scalp.
[0089] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be applied to the scalp and / or hair as needed, particularly daily, for example, after shampooing or conditioning. For example, it can be applied to dry hair when touching up for styling.
[0090] The application of the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention does not require subsequent rinsing.
[0091] In an alternative embodiment of the present invention, the use of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention includes a step of rinsing off the composition after a possible contact time which may be several seconds to 5 minutes, preferably 10 seconds to 5 minutes, more preferably 30 seconds to 5 minutes, and more preferably 2 to 3 minutes.
[0092] The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used, in particular, for moisturizing and / or protecting hair, especially from heat, and / or mechanical, biological, chemical, and / or environmental attacks.
[0093] Advantageously, hair protection relates to protecting hair when it is subjected to attack, alteration, deterioration, physical or mechanical damage or stress, particularly damage or stress associated with brushing, smoothing, drying, pulling, combing, curling, etc.
[0094] Advantageously, hair protection concerns protection against ultraviolet (UV) light, i.e., when hair is weakened by UV light.
[0095] Advantageously, hair protection relates to its thermal protection, i.e., protection when the hair is subjected to heat from straightening and / or drying.
[0096] More advantageously, hair protection concerns the protection of hair when it is subjected to the heat of a straightening iron.
[0097] Advantageously, the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention protects hair from heat at 150-230°C.
[0098] More advantageously, the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention protects hair from heat at 170-230°C.
[0099] Even more advantageously, the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention protects hair from heat of 180-230°C.
[0100] A significant advantage is that the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention protects hair from heat reaching approximately 230°C.
[0101] Similarly advantageously, hair protection relates to the protection of hair when it is subjected to chemical attacks such as coloring and / or bleaching.
[0102] The hair cosmetic compositions according to the present invention can be used, in particular, to protect the structure, visual properties, and / or biomechanical properties of hair from mechanical, biological, chemical, and / or environmental attacks.
[0103] Advantageously, the cosmetic use of the compositions according to the present invention prevents and / or reduces and / or suppresses non-aesthetic damage to hair caused by chemical, biological, physical, mechanical and / or environmental attacks, preferably maintaining and / or improving the flexibility and / or silky appearance of the hair, and / or decorating the hair, in particular giving the hair shine and / or improving its luster, and / or improving and / or facilitating its shaping and / or styling, which in turn results in maintaining and / or improving the strength, vitality and / or resilience of the hair.
[0104] Hair protection can be evaluated according to the techniques available in the field. Conventional methods for measuring protective effects allow for the measurement of a formulation's ability to restore the visual, structural, and / or functional state of damaged hair by comparing it to the state of undamaged hair.
[0105] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is particularly suitable for the care and / or treatment of dry hair and / or damaged hair and / or hair exposed to physical, mechanical and / or biological and / or chemical and / or environmental attacks, especially dry hair.
[0106] Advantageously, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are particularly suitable for damaged, dry or normal hair, especially dull, fine, dyed, rough, flat or matte hair, and / or hair that is difficult to style and / or shape, and / or hair that is fragile and / or easily damaged due to its properties (such as curly and / or frizzy and / or gray and / or aged and / or fine hair).
[0107] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is also suitable for the care of hair that is fragile and easily damaged due to its properties, such as dry and / or curly and / or frizzy and / or gray and / or aged and / or fine hair.
[0108] The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention, in particular, - To maintain and / or improve hair vitality, and / or to tighten hair scales, - To maintain and / or improve the resistance of hair, and / or to strengthen it, -and / or for maintaining and / or improving the shine and / or luster, flexibility and / or silky appearance of the hair, It can be used to facilitate hair styling and / or shaping.
[0109] The present invention also relates to a method for non-therapeutic cosmetic care of hair and / or scalp, which includes topical application of the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the hair and / or scalp.
[0110] This method may have one or more of the features described above with respect to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
[0111] In particular, this method may include topically applying the composition to the hair and / or scalp after shampooing, and rinsing after this application, if applicable, after an arbitrary contact time.
[0112] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the method does not include a rinsing step.
[0113] The features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent with reference to Figures 1 and 2 in light of the following examples, which are provided for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the invention. [Brief explanation of the drawing]
[0114] [Figure 1]These are scanning electron microscope images of dried human hair fibers damaged by mechanical and thermal stress after water was applied to the surface. [Figure 2] These are scanning electron microscope images of dried human hair fibers that were damaged by mechanical stress and thermal stress after being treated with the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention on their surface (A / 1 application, B / 6 applications). [Modes for carrying out the invention]
[0115] 1 / Example 1 - Composition according to the present invention The hair cosmetic composition (C1) according to the present invention, intended for the protection of hair, satisfies the properties shown in Table 1 below.
[0116] TIFF2026512451000001.tif102170 Table 1 - Compositions according to Invention C1
[0117] 2 / Example 2 - Scanning electron microscopy evaluation of the protective / coating effect of various compositions on hair fibers This study sets out two objectives: firstly, to evaluate the effect of the composition according to the present invention, adapted for hair care, on protecting / coating the surface of hair; and secondly, to compare it with the effect of a hair composition that does not contain hydrogenated lecithin.
[0118] The tests will be conducted on dried and damaged human hair strands. The performance of the hair care composition on the hair surface will be evaluated by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) analysis.
[0119] Measurements and processing were carried out under controlled experimental conditions, with a temperature of 20±2°C and a humidity of 45±10%.
[0120] Each test is performed on a series of five hair strands having the following characteristics: -Weight: 1g, -Length 20cm, -Condition: Dry and damaged due to the application of pre-treatment procedures involving both mechanical stress (combing) and thermal stress (heating).
[0121] Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) is an electron microscopy technique that can generate high-resolution images of sample surfaces using the principle of electron-matter interaction. In this study, the surface of hair strands was analyzed using a field emission scanning microscope (Model Ultra Plus, Zeiss).
[0122] 2.1 / Study of the effects of composition C1 We analyzed the following three conditions: - Untreated hair strands (control condition, formulation containing only water applied to the brand), -Hair strands treated by the application of composition C1, -Hair strands treated by six consecutive applications of composition C1.
[0123] This research will proceed as follows.
[0124] For a single application of composition C1, follow these steps: Hold the top of the hair strand and apply a certain amount of composition C1 (0.25g formulation / g strand) along the entire length from root to tip. Spread the formulation three times along the entire length from root to tip, then flip the strand over and repeat the same process on the other side. Next, spread the formulation in a "zigzag" pattern on one side for 15 seconds, then spread it on the other side. Finally, air dry.
[0125] For the six consecutive applications of composition C1, the procedure described above is applied once, followed by two more applications. After the third application, the hair strands are washed with shampoo and then dried. The same procedure is repeated for a total of six applications.
[0126] For the three conditions tested, perform the following steps: -The strand sample is taken from the intermediate section between the center and the tip. - Prepare hair samples for SEM observation, perform metallization, and attach them to studs. -20 strands of hair were observed at magnifications of ×200 and ×500.
[0127] We compared the three conditions with each other. The results obtained are as follows:
[0128] SEM observation of hair strands in the control group (containing only water) shows that 85% of the hair strands have structural damage. In particular, hair cracks are observed in approximately 50% of cases, as indicated by the arrows in Figure 1. Damage such as partial cuticle loss and slight cuticle lift is also observed.
[0129] Figure 2 shows SEM images of fibers treated with composition C1 according to the present invention, for one application (A / ) and six applications (B / ), respectively. These fibers show no cracks. The images reveal that the fibers have a slight coating of the composition on their surface.
[0130] In general, a single application of composition C1 according to the present invention already results in a reduction in the percentage of damaged hair fibers compared to control conditions. After this single application, 70% of the strands remain damaged. Fiber cracking was observed in only 35% of cases, a result that is 30% lower than under control conditions.
[0131] As a result of applying composition C1 six times consecutively, the proportion of damaged hair fibers was further reduced compared to the control conditions. In this treatment, only 35% of the hair fibers were damaged. Fiber cracking was observed in only 20% of cases, which is 60% lower than the control conditions.
[0132] The effects of composition C1 according to the present invention are summarized in Table 2 below.
[0133] Table 2 - Protective effect of composition C1 according to the present invention on hair fibers. (TIFF2026512451000002.tif101170)
[0134] These results demonstrate that composition C1 according to the present invention enables protection of hair fibers. It is clear that six applications of this composition enable better hair surface repair than a single application.
[0135] 2.2 Comparison of the composition according to the present invention with a comparative composition that does not contain hydrogenated lecithin In this example, hair cosmetic compositions C2 and C3 according to the present invention, as well as compositions Comp2 and Comp3 not according to the present invention, were tested. Their compositions are shown in Table 3 below.
[0136] TIFF2026512451000003.tif149170 Table 3 - Properties of the tested compositions
[0137] The test procedure is the same as described in Section 2.1. Each composition is applied only once. Therefore, there are five conditions (one control with no treatment, and four treatment conditions for the four compositions shown in Table 3). Compositions C2 and Comp2 are analyzed in comparison to the control (application of a formulation containing only water). Compositions C3 and Comp3 are also analyzed in comparison to the control.
[0138] The results obtained are as follows:
[0139] Scanning electron microscopy observations of hair strands in the control group (treated with a formulation containing only water) showed that 73% of the hair strands had structural damage, which could be classified into the following two types: - Partial cuticle loss, 63% of cases; - Slight cuticle lift, approximately 20% of cases.
[0140] It should be noted that these damages are often related, meaning that two types of abnormalities are observed on the same hair fiber. This means that the percentage of damaged hair is smaller than the sum of the various abnormalities observed.
[0141] Hair care compositions C3 and Comp3 do not contain conditioning agents, and since no cuticle lift is observed after treating hair strands with these compositions, they have an effective hair structure protection and coating effect compared to the control condition. Hair strands treated with composition C3 showed partial cuticle loss in only 15% of cases, while those treated with composition Comp3 showed partial cuticle loss in 20% of cases. Therefore, composition C3 (the composition according to the present invention) is observed to be more effective than comparative composition Comp3.
[0142] Hair care compositions C2 and Comp2 are compared with each other and with a control. Both compositions exhibit effective hair structure protection and coating effects, as no cuticle lift is observed after treating hair strands with them. Hair strands treated with composition Comp2 show partial cuticle loss in 15% of cases. Compared to the latter, composition C2 according to the present invention shows greater effectiveness, as no abnormalities are observed in the hair fibers treated with it.
[0143] This study demonstrates the effectiveness of the compositions according to the present invention from the standpoint of hair protection. These compositions work particularly by reducing cuticle loss and completely preventing scale lifting, a phenomenon observed in damaged hair. The compositions according to the present invention have a far superior hair fiber protection and coating effect than similar compositions that do not contain hydrogenated lecithin.
[0144] 3 / Example 3 - Evaluation of the hair thickening effect of the composition according to the present invention This is an in vitro study conducted using dried and damaged hair after a standard 6-hour bleaching procedure. This hair was purchased from Kerling International.
[0145] The study of hair mass index (in arbitrary units) is conducted using the HairCheck® device. This device measures the cross-section of hair strands growing on a precision surface. This cross-section varies depending on the amount and thickness of the hair. Therefore, the "redensification," or activation effect, of the treatment on the hair fibers can be evaluated.
[0146] Measurements and processing were carried out under controlled experimental conditions, with a temperature of 20±2°C and a humidity of 45±10%.
[0147] The operating procedure is as follows: - From the stock of light-colored hair damaged by bleaching as described above, cut 30 braids, each 1 cm wide and weighing 1.2 g (10 braids per group); - Pre-wash all strands as follows: Using tweezers, moisten 5 braids with tap water; using a syringe, apply 1.5 ml of Ducray Extr-Soft shampoo (0.25 g shampoo / g hair) to 5 braids (i.e., 0.3 ml shampoo / 1 cm braid); wash for 1 minute, gently rubbing; rinse the braids in a 2 L beaker with tap water for 30 seconds; perform the above rinse a second time; - Dry with a hairdryer; - Use a ballpoint pen to label the tape on the blade.
[0148] Create the following three groups: - Group 1: Control, no treatment, -Group 2: The blade is treated with composition C2 of Example 2. -Group 3: The blade is treated with composition Comp2 of Example 2.
[0149] Before applying the composition, measure the thickness of the hair shaft. Measurements are taken at 10 points along the hair shaft, starting from the root, at approximately 1 cm intervals, to determine the hair mass index corresponding to time T0 (before application of the composition).
[0150] Using a syringe, apply 0.3 ml of each composition (0.25 g of composition / g of hair) to each braid. To facilitate application, apply 1.5 ml of composition to five braids combined. Using latex gloves, gently allow the composition to penetrate for 1 minute. Hang the braids on a clothesline and dry them with a hairdryer without touching them. Once dry, leave the braids outdoors for 15 minutes. Measure the hair mass index again using the HairCheck device. The data obtained corresponds to time T1 (after one application without rinsing).
[0151] Using GraphPad Prism9 software, statistical analysis will be performed on the control condition using an independent t-test.
[0152] The results obtained under each test condition are shown in Table 4 below.
[0153] TIFF2026512451000004.tif71170 Table 4 - Average hair mass index measured before and after application of hair composition (n=50) - NS = Not significant
[0154] In the control group, it was observed that the application of water did not result in hair protection. This result was expected.
[0155] When composition C2 according to the present invention was applied without rinsing, the hair mass index significantly increased (+3.6%) compared to the baseline value; this increase was also statistically significant compared to the control group (p<0.001). Application of composition Comp2 resulted in a slight increase in the hair mass index, but this effect did not reach the threshold for significance.
[0156] Therefore, it has been clearly demonstrated that composition C2 according to the present invention significantly produces hair fiber coating and hair thickening effects with just one application.
[0157] 4 / Example 4 - Evaluation of thermal protection of hair shafts by the composition according to the present invention Hair possesses natural biological functions such as heat regulation, particularly protecting it from exposure to solar radiation. Hair dryers, straighteners, and some curling irons apply heat treatment that alters the integrity of hair fibers. Keratin, a protein in hair fibers, holds a large amount of water, but weak bonds break above 100°C, and all water evaporates above 135°C. Above 230°C, the helical portion of keratin is irreversibly denatured. The average heat of a hair dryer is 90°C, and the average heat of a straightener and curling iron is 210°C. Therefore, treatment with these devices weakens the protein in the hair shaft.
[0158] The physicochemical properties of hair fibers are a direct result of their structural elements, more specifically, the arrangement of proteins, which account for approximately 95% of the weight of the hair fiber. Analysis of the protein content of hair fibers is suitable for objectively evaluating structural damage caused by external stresses such as ultraviolet radiation and heat. This is because the more fragile the hair becomes due to stress, the more protein it loses due to exposure to ultrasound (Non-Patent Literature 1). The Laurie method enables the evaluation of protein loss using UV-Vis spectroscopy and has already been reported for the quantification of hair proteins (Non-Patent Literature 2).
[0159] The purpose of this in vitro study is to evaluate the thermal protective effect of the composition according to the present invention on hair exposed to heat stress caused by the use of a hair dryer and straightener at 230°C.
[0160] We will test the following two formulations: -The composition according to the present invention (composition C1 of Example 1), -Comparative composition Comp1, which is not the present invention but a commercially available product, contains the following ingredients (silicone-containing): water, coconut oil, amodimethicone, polyquaternium-37, phenoxyethanol, dicaprylic acid / propylene glycol dicaprate, tocopherol, sodium hydroxide, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PPG-1 trideceth-6, trideceth-6, behentrimonium chloride, xylose, lactic acid, ethylhexylglycerin, linalool, sorbitan oleate, isopropyl alcohol, cetrimonium chloride, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, PG-propylsilanetriol, resveratrol, benzyl alcohol, limonene, coumarin, potassium sorbate, fragrance.
[0161] The procedure performed was as follows: The hair used in this study was provided by Kerling International. Caucasian hair from various donors was mixed and held together with a strip of adhesive to form strands approximately 20 cm wide and 18 cm long. From each strand, 1 cm wide strips were cut and treated for each condition studied.
[0162] Wet a 1 cm wide strand of hair and wring it out. Apply the product to be tested (composition C1 or Comp1) along the entire length of the strand (0.25 g / g hair). After exposure to the product at room temperature for 5 minutes, dry the hair using a hair dryer that blows hot air at 125°C. Once the hair is dry, pass it through a straightening iron at 230°C 50 times consecutively per strand. Then wash the hair with a 1% sodium dodecyl sulfate solution.
[0163] After repeating this entire process four times, the hair shafts are sonicated to quantify the associated protein loss.
[0164] This study uses an untreated control group (hair without stress and without treatment with the composition) and a stressed control group (hair stressed by heat from a hair dryer and straightener, but without treatment with the composition).
[0165] The quantification of protein loss by the Lowry method was performed as follows: For each experimental condition, six 100 mg hair samples were placed in a specified volume of water and subjected to sonication in an ultrasonic bath (2 hours, 80 kHz). After sonication, the protein lost from the hair fibers was quantified using the Lowry method in the supernatant (three samples per sample). After measuring the absorbance (optical density at 750 nm) using a spectrophotometer, the protein concentration of each sample was determined using standard range bovine serum albumin (BAS).
[0166] Using GraphPad Prism9 software, statistical analysis will be performed on the stressed control condition using an independent t-test.
[0167] The results obtained are shown in Table 5 below.
[0168] Table 5 - Hair protein loss measured by the Lowry method (TIFF2026512451000005.tif81170)
[0169] These results indicate that heat stress from using hot hair dryers and straighteners at 230°C leads to significant protein loss from hair. This loss is statistically significantly higher in the stressed control group than in the unstressed control group. As shown in Table 5, 2.9 mg of protein per gram of hair is lost under stressed control conditions, compared to only 0.8 mg per gram of hair under unstressed control conditions. These results are consistent with the lack of integrity of the hair shaft and weakening of hair structure observed during heat stress. These results are expected and allow for the validity of the study.
[0170] Comparative composition Comp1, based on silicone and polyethylene glycol, results in a statistically significant reduction in protein loss by hair. Furthermore, composition C1 according to the present invention, although free of silicone and polyethylene glycol, is observed to similarly and significantly reduce protein loss caused by the heat stress protocol, providing nearly the same level of hair fiber protection as composition Comp1.
Claims
1. A hair cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion suitable for topical application, comprising 60 to 99% by weight of an aqueous phase and 1 to 40% by weight of a fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the composition is - An emulsifying system comprising 0.1 to 2% by weight of at least one hydrogenated lecithin relative to the total weight of the composition, and 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of at least one coemulsifier selected from sodium stearoyl glutamate or disodium stearoyl glutamate and distearoyl ethyldimonium chloride relative to the total weight of the composition, - At least one gelling agent selected from the group consisting of alginate, carrageenan, cellulose and its derivatives, starch, xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, succinoglucan gum, gellan gum, deutan gum, acacia gum, caesalpinia spinosa gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, acrylate, and mixtures thereof. - At least one aliphatic alcohol selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, Including, And it must be silicone-free. A hair cosmetic composition characterized by the following.
2. The hair cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of erythritol, arginine, sodium pyroglutamic acid, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, glyceryl oleate, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
3. The hair cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the total content of the conditioning agent is 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. A hair cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which does not contain polyethylene glycol and / or sulfate.
5. The hair cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising at least 80% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The hair cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the total content of hydrogenated lecithin is 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The hair cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the total content of the gelling agent is 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. The hair cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the total content of aliphatic alcohols is 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. A hair cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising at least one alkyl polyglucoside.
10. A hair cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising an activator for cosmetic care of hair and / or scalp.
11. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the hair cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for the care of hair and / or scalp.
12. The use according to claim 11 for moisturizing and / or protecting the hair, particularly for protecting it from heat.
13. The use according to claim 11 or 12 for protecting the structure, visual properties, and / or biomechanical properties of the hair from mechanical, biological, chemical, and / or environmental attacks.
14. The use according to any one of claims 11 to 13 for maintaining and / or improving hair vitality and / or tightening hair scales.
15. The use according to any one of claims 11 to 14, wherein the hair is dry hair.
16. The use according to any one of claims 11 to 15, wherein the hair is damaged hair.
17. The use according to any one of claims 11 to 16, wherein the composition is applied topically to the hair and / or scalp.
18. A method for non-therapeutic cosmetic care of hair and / or scalp, comprising topical application of a hair cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.
Citation Information
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