Camelina seedcake extract and composition comprising it, in particular for a cosmetic treatment

Abstract

The present invention relates to a camelina cake extract and a composition comprising said extract, for a cosmetic treatment. The extract according to the invention has anti-aging, propigmenting and moisturising effects, by acting on the production of various molecules such as hyaluronic acid, collagen, laminins and melanin, and on the inhibition of oxidation, radicals and glycation.

Description

CAMELINA SEEDCAKE EXTRACT AND COMPOSITION COMPRISING IT, IN PARTICULAR FOR A COSMETIC TREATMENT

[0001] The present invention relates to a camelina seedcake extract, a composition comprising said extract and uses, in particular for a cosmetic treatment.

[0002] « Cosmetic or cosmeceutical treatment » means a treatment which treats healthy skin and / or appendages, said treatment being intended to improve or beautify their appearance and condition. Such treatment has no therapeutic purpose.

[0003] The present invention relates in particular to the cosmetic and dermo-pharmaceutical industries, which manufacture and / or use products intended for the treatment of skin, including scalp, mucous membranes and appendages (such as bodily hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, hair) of mammals, animals or humans, for improving their appearance and / or their general condition.

[0004] These industries are in increasing demand for new products, in particular in demand for new active ingredients which are derived from plants because they offer a combination of efficacy, limitation of risks of irritation and allergy, reduction of side effects and biodegradability, with the possibilities of labelling / certification and matching with a logic of sustainable development and / or fair trade.

[0005] Camelina (Camelina sativa), also called “bastard flax” or “German sesame”, is native to Northern Europe and Central Asia. It has been cultivated in Europe for over 3,000 years, mainly used for producing vegetable oil, cattle feed, heating fuel, or engine fuel.

[0006] Camelina seed oil is interesting for its high levels of unsaturated fatty acids such as α-linolenic acid (also called omega-3) and linoleic acid (also called omega-6), which help to reduce the risk of cardiovascular diseases.

[0007] In cosmetics, camelina seed oil, rich in unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E, is used for its soothing, antioxidant properties and to maintain the quality of the skin barrier.

[0008] Camelina seed oil produces a large quantity of solid by-products known as camelina cake.

[0009] A « cake » means the solid residues generated by the extraction of fruits and / or seeds from oleaginous plant. Usually, a single extraction is carried out, but several extractions can be envisaged before recovering the cake.

[0010] An « oleaginous or oil-bearing plant » means a plant from which oil is extracted from the fruit or seeds. They are mechanically pressed to produce oils, which are mainly used in the food industry.

[0011] Camelina seedcakes, like many other oleaginous plant cakes, are used as fodder for feeding livestock and as soil fertiliser.

[0012] However, there is still a need to find new ways for valorising camelina seedcake with added value.

[0013] The aim of the present invention is to propose a new non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment for improving and / or beautifying the general condition of the skin and its appendages.

[0014] For this purpose, the present invention provides a camelina seedcake extract for a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin and its appendages.

[0015] According to the invention, « topical treatment » or « topical use » means an application that is intended to act where it is applied: skin, mucosa and / or appendages. Preferably, according to the invention, the treatment is topical.

[0016] The camelina seedcake extract according to the invention can be obtained by the usual solid / liquid extraction techniques including, for example, maceration, simple decoction, infusion, leaching, extraction under reflux, extraction by subcritical or supercritical fluid, extraction by means of ultrasound or microwaves, or any other physical and / or chemical method such as percolation, digestion, cryoextraction, enzymatic digestion, etc.

[0017] « Maceration » means a process consisting of soaking a plant or part of a plant in an extraction solvent at room temperature.

[0018] « Infusion » means a process consisting of bringing the extraction solvent to the boil before pouring it onto the plant or part of the plant.

[0019] « Decoction » means a process consisting of blending the plant or the part of plant with the extraction solvent, then heating the mixture at the boiling point.

[0020] « Digestion » means a process consisting of blending the plant or the part of plant with the extraction solvent, then heating the mixture below the boiling point.

[0021] Preferably, according to the invention, the extract is obtained by reflux extraction, maceration, decoction, infusion, leaching, subcritical or supercritical fluid, means of ultrasound or microwaves, percolation, digestion, cryoextraction or enzymatic digestion. Preferably, the extract is obtained by reflux extraction, maceration, decoction, infusion, leaching, means of ultrasound or microwaves, percolation, digestion or enzymatic digestion; more preferably, by digestion.

[0022] Preferably, according to the invention, the solvent used to produce the camelina seedcake extract is selected from aqueous, alcoholic, hydroalcoholic, glycolic or lipidic solvent or mixture thereof, such as water, a C1, C2, C3 or C4 alcohol, or a polyol selected from pentanediol, sorbitol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, hexanol, caprylic / capric triglyceride (GTCC), a vegetable oil, or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the extraction solvent is an aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic, more preferably a hydroalcoholic solvent.

[0023] The water-alcohol ratio of the hydroalcoholic solvent is preferably comprised between 90:10 and 10:90, preferably between 80:20 and 20:80, more preferably between 30:70 and 70:30, more preferably between 40:60 and 60:40. More preferably, the water-alcohol ratio of the hydroalcoholic solvent is 40:60.

[0024] Preferably, the hydroalcoholic solvent is a blend of ethanol and water.

[0025] Preferably, according to the invention, the extract obtained above is dried to obtain a powder by means of vacuum concentration, dehydration, lyophilisation, atomisation and / or zeodration. Preferably, according to the invention, the extract is dried by zeodration.

[0026] Advantageously, the extract dried by zeodration is subjected to very gradual temperature variations of between -20°C and 70°C. This gradual approach ensures that the molecular structure of the extract is not denatured and consumes little energy.

[0027] The camelina cake extract according to the invention contains as main components polyphenols including flavonoids, carbohydrates, proteins, minerals and lipids.

[0028] Preferably, according to the invention, the camelina cake extract contains at least 1% polyphenols, preferably at least 2% polyphenols, more preferably at least 3% polyphenols, more preferably at least 4% polyphenols based on the total weight of the dry extract.

[0029] More preferably, according to the invention, the camelina cake extract contains between 1% and 10% polyphenols, preferably between 2% and 8% polyphenols, more preferably between 3% and 6% polyphenols based on the total weight of the dry extract.

[0030] Preferably, according to the invention, the camelina cake extract contains at least 1% flavonoids, preferably at least 2% flavonoids, more preferably at least 3% flavonoids based on the total weight of the dry extract.

[0031] More preferably, according to the invention, the camelina cake extract contains between 1% and 10% flavonoids, preferably between 2% and 8% flavonoids, more preferably between 3% and 6% flavonoids based on the total weight of the dry extract.

[0032] Preferably according to the invention, the camelina cake extract contains no more than 10% lipids, preferably, no more than 5% lipids, more preferably no more than 2% lipids based on the total weight of the dry extract.

[0033] More preferably, according to the invention, the camelina cake extract contains between 0.01% and 10% lipids, preferably between 0.1% and 5% lipids, more preferably between 0.5% and 3% lipids based on the total weight of the dry extract.

[0034] The extract according to the invention, dried or not, can be used as such or in a composition, diluted in a physiologically acceptable medium. The nature of the medium is defined according to the properties of the camelina cake extract and also according to the destination of the composition formed: a simple ingredient or a more sophisticated galenic form of a final composition for the consumer.

[0035] « Physiologically acceptable medium » means according to the present invention without limitation, an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous gel, a serum, a dispersion of vesicles, or a powder.

[0036] « Physiologically acceptable » means that the compositions are suitable for topical or transdermal use, in contact with mucous membranes, appendages (nails, hair and body hair), scalp and skin of mammals, particularly humans, compositions which may be ingested or injected into the skin, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and others. This « physiologically acceptable medium »forms what is commonly called the excipient of the composition.

[0037] According to the invention, the physiologically acceptable medium can be an aqueous, hydroglycolic or hydroalcoholic solution, or a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, or a microemulsion. Preferably, it is glycolic. More preferably, the physiologically acceptable medium is glycerine.

[0038] In vitrotests results are given below in the description showing cosmetic activities related to the beautification and / or general improvement of the skin thanks to the use of a camelina seedcake extract:

[0039] - an increase in collagen VII and laminins strengthening the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), which ensures that the keratinocytes are well anchored to the basal layer and that there is a better communication between the cells, leading to a polarisation of the keratinocytes and therefore to a better skin barrier. The barrier is therefore less fragile, which contributes to the flexibility and elasticity of the epidermis.

[0040] - an increase in the antiradical and antioxidant effects, and also an anti-glycation effect, helping to preserve the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) and prevent premature aging of the skin and its appendages, which can lead to wrinkles and fine lines, thinning of the skin, degradation of the ECM and / or the proteins, etc.

[0041] The increase in oxidative and radical forms is linked to age and / or repeated environmental stresses, such as UV radiations. In particular, radicals and reactive oxygen species attack membrane lipids and / or functional proteins in the dermal ECM, such as collagens.

[0042] Regarding glycation, it also affects proteins and / or reducing sugars. These interactions with proteins and / or reducing sugars alter the mechanical and elastic properties of the dermal ECM, which become less flexible, more rigid, but also more flaccid and less reactive. Visually, this results in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and a skin that is dull, sagging, lacking radiance, tired-looking, a skin lacking tone and suppleness.

[0043] By strengthening the DEJ and preserving the dermal ECM, the skin becomes denser, plumper, firmer, more supple and more elastic with, as a result, a more even and smoother skin texture, and a more radiant complexion.

[0044] - a stimulation of melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity.

[0045] Melanin is responsible for the dark pigmentation of the skin. It is also the natural pigment of the eyes, hair, eyelashes, and hair (melanogenesis) to intensify the normal pigmentation of the skin and its appendages without solar or UV radiation.

[0046] A way to stimulate the melanin synthesis is to increase the activity of tyrosinase, the first enzyme in the chain of melanogenesis, changing tyrosine to DOPA-quinone.

[0047] A propigmenting active ingredient will act primarily to stimulate melanin synthesis to intensify the normal pigmentation of the skin and appendages without solar or UV radiation. Melanocytes in the epidermis produce melanin from the amino acid tyrosine. Tyrosinase and other enzymes then transform the tyrosine and form melanin.

[0048] Applications will include the repigmentation of skin white spots and the acceleration and / or intensification of tanning. A propigmenting active ingredient can also be used for the prevention and repigmentation of hair, eyelashes and / or eyebrows (treatment of canitie). Applications may be for cosmetic purposes, in particular a self-tanning treatment or a treatment to improve the uniformity of the complexion, a treatment to reinforce the phototype of people with a fair skin sensitive to the sun, a treatment to prepare the skin before exposure to the sun, a treatment of white spots due to a partial melanocyte deficiency.

[0049] - an increase in hyaluronic acid synthesis.

[0050] Hyaluronic acid is a major component of the epidermis contributing to the barrier function as well as to the maintaining of a satisfactory hydration of the skin. It is capable of absorbing 1,000 times its own weight in water. It is in the form of an aqueous and nourishing gel which fills the spaces between the keratinocytes. It prevents the skin from dryness, which is known to alter the texture of the skin, giving it a rough and harsh touch.

[0051] Thus, preferably, the present invention provides the use of camelina cake extract of the speciesCamelina sativa, for at least one treatment selected from:

[0052] - an anti-aging treatment by strengthening the DEJ and / or preserving the dermal ECM;

[0053] - a propigmenting treatment by stimulating tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis; and / or

[0054] - a moisturising treatment by increasing hyaluronic acid synthesis.

[0055] These cosmetic effects can be envisaged according to the invention separately or in combination.

[0056] Therefore, the present invention covers a non-therapeutic topical cosmetic treatment method for beautifying or improving the appearance and general condition of the skin and / or its appendages, and for treating their imperfections, by applying to a subject in needs thereof an effective amount of at least one camelina cake extract according to the invention or of a composition comprising it, in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0057] The « effective amount » of camelina cake extract according to the invention, that is to say its dosage, depends on the destination of the composition. It depends on various factors, such as the age, the condition of the patient, the severity of the skin disorder and / or appendages. An effective amount means a non-toxic amount enough to achieve the desired effect.

[0058] To be present in an effective amount in a final composition intended for the consumer, the proportions of the dry extract of camelina cake according to the invention are generally ranging from 0.000001% to 15% based on the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.00001% to 10%, and preferably ranging from 0.0001% to 5%, depending on the destination of the composition and the more or less pronounced desired effect and the frequency of application. More preferably, the effective amount is between 0.001% and 1% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0059] All the percentages and ratios used in the present patent application are expressed relative to the weight of the total composition and all measurements are taken at 25°C unless otherwise specified.

[0060] By way of example, for a cosmetic facial treatment, the European Cosmetics Directive has set a standard application amount for a cream of 2.72 mg / cm² / day / person, and for a body lotion of 0.5 mg / cm² / day / person.

[0061] According to other features, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention can be combined with one or more other treatment methods targeting the skin such as luminotherapy, heat or aromatherapy treatments.

[0062] According to the invention, devices with several compartments or kits may be proposed to apply the method described above, which may include for example, and non-restrictively, a first compartment containing a composition comprising the camelina cake extract according to the invention, and in a second compartment an additional active ingredient, the compositions contained in the said first and second compartments in this case being considered to be a combination composition for simultaneous, separate or stepwise use in time, particularly in one of the treatment methods recited above.

[0063] According to other advantageous features, the camelina cake extract according to the invention may be associated with one or more other active ingredients at effective concentrations that can act synergistically or additionally for reinforcing and achieving the desired effects described for the invention.

[0064] The additional active ingredients can be selected, for example, from anti-redness, anti-spot, soothing active ingredients, ingredients for treating sensitive, reactive skin, filtering radiation, in particular UVA, UVB, IR, or generated by blue light, hydrating, moisturising, humectant, exfoliating, smoothing, toning, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and fine line active ingredients, improving mechanical and elastic properties, complexion radiance, detoxifying active ingredients, hair growth inhibitors, active ingredients that act on the skin barrier, anti-acne ingredients, active ingredients that act on sebum secretion, matifying, unifying, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-radical, anti-glycant, treating eye contour (dark circles and under eye bags), active ingredients that promote blood circulation, peptides, vitamins, ceramides, etc. These active ingredients can be obtained synthetically or from plant materials, such as plant extracts or products of plant culture or fermentation production methods.

[0065] The Personal Care Products Council (“International cosmetic ingredient dictionary & handbook” published by ”the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc.”, Washington, D.C.) describes a non-limited wide variety of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients conventionally used in the skin care industry that can be used as additional ingredients in the compositions for the present invention, as long as they are physically and chemically compatible with the other ingredients of the composition and especially with the active ingredients of the present invention. Also, the nature of these additional ingredients should not unacceptably alter the benefits of the active ingredients of the invention. These additional ingredients can be synthetic or natural such as plant extracts or issued from a bio-fermentation process.

[0066] Further skin care actives that are particularly useful combined with the composition according to the invention can be found in the commercial literature of Alban Muller International, Crodarom and Sederma, and on the website www.crodabeauty.com.

[0067] More specifically, the camelina cake extract according to the invention can be combined with at least one compound chosen among vitamin compounds, group B, C, E, F, D and A, especially compounds as niacinamide or tocopherol, retinoids compounds such as retinol, hyaluronic acid, α-lipoic acid, resveratrol, peptides or ceramides, which are classic active ingredients used in topical cosmetic compositions.

[0068] Furthermore, the present invention provides the use of a camelina cake extract, as described above, for the manufacture of a composition for a cosmetic treatment, as described above.

[0069] The composition for the use according to the invention can be provided in any galenic form (examples are given below) defined according to the composition destination and application site.

[0070] A composition according to the invention can be applied to the face, body, neckline, scalp, hair, eyelashes, body hair, in any form or vehicle known to those skilled in the art, in particular in the form of a solution, dispersion, emulsion, paste or powder, individually or as a premix or conveyed individually or as a premix in a bound form, incorporated or adsorbed in vectors such as macro-, micro-, or nanocapsules, macro-, micro- or , nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macro-, micro-, or nanoparticles or macro-, micro or nanosponges, micro- or nanoemulsions, or adsorbed on organic polymer powders, talcs, bentonites, spores or exines, and other inorganic or organic supports.

[0071] In cosmetics, applications can be proposed in particular in the ranges of the skin care for the face, body, hair and body hair and ranges of make-up care treatments, in particular eyelashes and eyebrows.

[0072] For example, the galenic form of the composition can be a lotion, a cream, a butter, a milk, a solid form, a foam, a gel, a deodorant, an antiperspirant, a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair mask, a face mask, a shower gel, etc.

[0073] The galenic formulations can enter in different product ranges for personal care and / or beauty product, in particular in the ranges of skin care, cleansing, make-up and its removal, sunscreen, artificial tanning, pre-shave, shaving or after-shave, moisturizer, humectant, emollient, conditioning, exfoliating, astringent, depilatories, anti-sweating or anti-perspirant, deodorant, etc.

[0074] The composition may be incorporated onto a non-woven or woven material, with natural or synthetic fibres, wool, or on any material intended to come into contact with the skin and that can be used in clothing, including tights and socks, shorty, day or night underwear, tissues, handkerchiefs or fabrics to exert its cosmetic effect via the contact skin / textile and enable continuous topical delivery (cosmetotextiles).

[0075] According to the invention, it is thus also provided a woven or non-woven fabric comprising at least one camelina cake extract, for use in a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment.DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0076] The present invention will be better understood in the light of the following description of embodiments, studies and figures described below.

[0077] 1.Examples of obtaining a camelina seedcakeextractaccording to the invention and a composition comprising it

[0078] Plant material: Camelina seedcake obtained after a single extraction of camelina seeds in a crushing press.

[0079] Macerationsolvent: Ethanol - Water (40:60)

[0080] Protocol:The camelina cake is ground and then extracted by solvent digestion at around 50°C for approximately 2 hours. The extract obtained is filtered to remove solid plant residues. Several successive filtrations are carried out, with a particle size of between 5 and 0.1µm. The filtered extract is thereafter concentrated under vacuum to evaporate solvent, then dried by zeodration.

[0081] Advantageously, according to this procedure a dry extract of camelina seedcake can be obtained comprising, as percentages by weight based on the total weight of the dry extract : approximately 5% polyphenols, including approximately 4% flavonoids and approximately 1% lipids. The polyphenols and flavonoids are identified by UV-visible spectrometry and the lipids by gravimetry.

[0082] To obtain a composition comprising the extract, the dry extract obtained is mixed with a physiologically acceptable medium consisting of glycerine. Examples of cosmetic formulations are described in paragraph 3 below.

[0083] This active ingredient is recommended in a composition at a level of 0.1 to 5%, preferably at a level of 0.5% to 3%, and more preferably at a level of 1% to 2%. These levels can vary without departing from the scope of the present invention, depending on the more or less pronounced effects sought.

[0084] 2. Evaluation of the various activities of the extract according to the invention by in vitro tests

[0085] Product tested:20% dry extract diluted, as prepared above, in a DMSO - water mixture (50:50).2.1. Anti-aging treatment

[0086] 2.1.1.Strengthening the dermal-epidermal junction(DEJ)Principle

[0087] DEJ ensures the cohesion between the epidermis and the dermis. During aging, a decrease of synthesis of its components (especially collagen VII and laminin) is observed. The aging of the DEJ has significant repercussions on the resilience of the skin, and the loss of its dynamism.2.1.1.1. Collagen VIIProtocol

[0088] Human keratinocytes (HK) are cultivated at sub-confluence and brought into contact with the product according to the invention or not (for the control cases). After this contact, the syntheses collagen VII is evaluated using ELISA-type kits. The number of cells is estimated using the Hoechst 33258 method (DNA staining) to standardize the results.Results

[0089] Variation of the collagen VII production by keratinocytes. Effect of 0.2% of the product according to the invention compared to the control (n=4):

[0090] Collagen VII(µg / mL / 106cell.)Variation (%); significanceControl16.1 ± 1.1Reference0.2% of the product according to the invention31.1 ± 2.5+ 93 %; p<0.01

[0091] These results show that the product according to the invention significantly increases the production of collagen VII in keratinocytes.2.1.1.2. LamininsProtocol

[0092] Human keratinocytes (HK) are cultivated at sub-confluence and brought into contact with the product according to the invention or not (for the control cases). After this contact, the synthesis of laminins is evaluated using ELISA-type kits. The number of cells is estimated using the Hoechst 33258 method (DNA staining) to standardize results.Results

[0093] Variation of the laminin production by keratinocytes. Effect of 0.065% of the product according to the invention compared to the control (n=4):

[0094] Laminins(µg / mL / 106cell.)Variation (%); significanceControl28.0 ± 1.7Reference0.065% of the product according to the invention52.4 ± 2.1+ 87 %; p<0.01

[0095] These results show that the product according to the invention significantly increases the production of laminins in keratinocytes.Conclusion

[0096] These results show that the product according to the invention has a direct action of strengthening the DEJ by stimulating the synthesis of laminins and collagen VII.

[0097] The product according to the invention can improve the aging of the skin linked to a disorganisation of the DEJ, by counteracting the loss of suppleness and elasticity that it causes.2.1.2. Antioxidant capacityPrinciple

[0098] Oxidative stress plays a central role in the cutaneous response to various stresses. Free radicals (H2O2, OH•, O2-, O2,1O2…) lead to protein, lipid, and DNA damages, causing premature aging of the skin.2.1.2.1. Singlet oxygenProtocol

[0099] A system generating singlet O2receives the product according to the invention. The degradation of uric acid is followed at 292nm by spectrophotometry.Results

[0100] Variation in singlet O2production (n=6). Effect of 0.065% or 0.2% of the product according to the invention compared to the control:

[0101] Singlet O2(Average variation in optical density)Variation (%); significanceControl31.71 ± 2.39Reference0.065% of the product according to the invention23.02 ± 2.50- 27 %; p<0.010.2% of the product according to the invention13.10 ± 3.32- 59 %; p<0.01

[0102] These results show that the product according to the invention significantly decreases the presence of singlet O2.2.1.2.2. Reactive oxygen species (ROS)Protocol

[0103] Normal human fibroblasts (NHF) are cultivated to confluence in their culture medium. The cells are subsequently contacted with the product of the invention for 24 hours and then receive a fluorescent probe intended to mark the intracellular production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). After incorporation for 30 minutes and rinsing, the cells are again treated with the product according to the invention. The cells do or do not receive an agent intended to create ROS (oxidizing stress). Reading the fluorescence (ex: 490 nm / em: 520 nm) allows the amount of intracellular ROS to be estimated. The number of cells is estimated using the Hoechst 33258 method (DNA staining) to standardize results.Results

[0104] Variation of the production of ROS in the intracellular content of fibroblasts, with or without oxidative stress. Effect of 0.065% and 0.2% of the product according to the invention compared to the control (n=3):

[0105] Variation (%); significanceNot stressed cellsStressed cellsControlReference1Reference20.065% of the product according to the invention- 23%; p<0.05- 86%; p<0.010.2% of the product according to the invention- 59% p<0.01- 94% p<0.01

[0106] These results show that the product according to the invention significantly reduces the production of reactive oxygen species in the intracellular content of fibroblasts, either having received oxidative stress or not.2.1.2.3. Lipoperoxidation UVAProtocol

[0107] Lipid peroxidation is evaluated with a test to follow the appearance of peroxidation (measurement of the quantity of conjugated dienes formed) of lipid membranes in the form of liposomes after oxidising UVA radiation. The reduction by an antioxidant is sought. In this test, the product according to the invention is applied after irradiation.Results

[0108] Variation in peroxidation (n=6). Effect of 0.065% of the product according to the invention compared to the control:

[0109] Lipoperoxidation(Average variation in optical density)Variation (%); significanceControl6.430 ± 0.753Reference0.065% of the product according to the invention1.512 ± 0.030- 76 %; p<0.01

[0110] These results show that the product according to the invention significantly reduces lipid peroxidation.Conclusion

[0111] The product according to the invention has a strong antioxidant capacity, making it possible to effectively fight against premature aging of the skin, which can lead to wrinkles and fine lines, thinning of the skin, degradation of ECM and / or proteins, etc.2.1.3. Anti-glycation capacityPrinciple

[0112] Glycation of proteins with reducing sugars in the skin is also responsible for skin aging. The formation of many glycated proteins whose functional, enzymatic, structural properties are altered, has consequences on the correct functioning of the cell or the organism. The consequence is the altering of the mechanical and elastic properties of the extracellular matrix of the dermis, which becomes less flexible, more rigid, but also more flaccid and less reactive, also resulting in a dull complexion.Protocol

[0113] The study of the non-enzymatic glycation is done between a model protein, the serum albumin, which serves as a target, and an edible reducing sugar from fruits. The protein is gradually glycated (bound to sugar) in an irreversible manner, in the presence or not of the product according to the invention. This change is followed by fluorescence.Results

[0114] Variation of the glycation (n=4). Effect of 0.065% and 0.2% of the product according to the invention compared to the control: [Table 6]Non-enzymatic glycation(Average variation in fluorescence unit)Variation (%); significanceControl95744 ± 2054Reference0.065% of the product according to the invention17389 ± 517- 82 %; p<0.010.2% of the product according to the invention8070 ± 558- 92 %; p<0.01

[0115] These results show the strong anti-glycant potential of the product according to the invention.Conclusion

[0116] The product according to the invention has anti-glycation properties that also help to combat skin aging, to preserve and / or to improve the radiance of the complexion.2.2. Propigmenting treatment2.2.1. Melanin productionProtocol

[0117] Normal human melanocytes (NHM) from the skin are cultivated and placed in contact with the product of the invention for 10 days. The culture media is changed every 2 or 3 days. At the end of this contact period, the mats are ground and the melanin is extracted from the cells. The quantity of melanin is assessed by spectrophotometry at 490 nm, using a standard range established previously from a melanin solution and compared to the control A protein assay using the bicinchoninic acid (BCA) method is performed to estimate the quantity of cells and to standardise the obtained data.Results

[0118] Variation of the production of melanin NHM after 10 days. Effect of 0.2% of the product according to the invention compared to the control (n=4):

[0119] Concentration in melanin(µg / mL / 106cell.)Variation (%); significanceControl207.3 ± 7.0Reference0.2% of the product according to the invention302.0 ± 21.2+ 46%; p<0.01

[0120] These results show that the product according to the invention significantly increased the melanin production in NHM.2.2.2. Tyrosinase activityProtocol

[0121] Normal human skin melanocytes (NHM) are cultivated and placed in contact with the product of the invention for 10 days. The culture media is changed every 2 or 3 days. At the end of the contact period, tyrosinase is extracted from the cells and its DOPA-oxidase activity is evaluated using the substrate L-DOPA at 37°C. The absorbance due to the production of DOPA-quinone is measured at 490nm and converted to activity units using a preset range. A protein assay using the BCA method is used to estimate cell quantity and thus to homogenise the obtained data.Results

[0122] Variation in tyrosinase activity by MHN after 10 days. Effect of 0.2% of the product according to the invention compared to the control (n=4):

[0123] Tyrosinase(µg / mL / 106cell.)Variation (%); significanceControl43.1 ± 31Reference0.2% of the product according to the invention82.9 ± 5.7+ 92%; p<0.01

[0124] These results show that the product according to the invention significantly increases tyrosinase activity. It can therefore promote a more active melanogenesis.2.3. Moisturising treatmentProtocol

[0125] Human keratinocytes are cultivated at sub-confluence and then contacted with the product according to the invention. After this contact, the synthesis of hyaluronic acid is assessed using an ELISA method. The number of cells is estimated using the Hoechst 33258 method (DNA staining) to standardize results.Results

[0126] Variation of hyaluronic acid production by keratinocytes. Effect of 0.065% of the product according to the invention compared with the control (n=4):

[0127] Hyaluronic acidµg / mL / 106cell.)Variation (%); significanceControl658.0 ± 58,6Reference0.065% of the product according to the invention1151.5 ± 169.2+ 75%; p<0.01

[0128] These results show that the product according to the invention significantly increases hyaluronic acid synthesis by keratinocytes.3. Examples of cosmetic formulation

[0129] Various cosmetic formulations are described below, including the ingredient according to the invention, in particular as formulated in point 1 above.

[0130] Additional active ingredients, acting in support and / or in addition to the activity of the active ingredient according to the invention may be added in the appropriate phase according to their hydrophobic, hydrophilic or amphiphilic nature. These ingredients can be of any category according to their function(s), the place of application (scalp, body, face, neck, bust, hands, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, etc.), the desired end effect and the targeted consumer, for example specific anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, moisturising, anti-dark circles, firming, anti-glycation, slimming, soothing, myo-relaxing, anti-redness, sensitive skin, anti-stretch marks, detoxifying, matifying, etc.Example 1: Gel cream

[0131] Raw materials%INCI namePhase AWaterqsWater / AquaPhase BGlycerin1.00GlycerinPropanediol3.00PropanediolEuxyl PE 90100.80Phenoxyethanol (and) EthylhexylglycerinPhase CXanthan Gum0.20Xanthan gumPhase DAristoflex® AVC0.80Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP CopolymerPhase ESP Arlacel™ 165-FP3.00Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 StearateCrodamol™ IPIS6.00Isopropyl IsostearatePhase FIngredient according to the invention1.0 – 3.0 / Phase GCitric acid0.10Citric acidProcess

[0132] Heat phase A to 80°C. Add phase B to phase A, with stirring. Disperse phase C in phase A+B. Disperse phase D in phase A+B+C. Heat E to 75°C. Add E to phase A+B+C+D, stirring vigorously. Allow to cool under a deflocculator. Add phase F to phase A+B+C+D+E. If necessary, adjust the pH to 5.5 using phase G.Example 2: Lotion

[0133] Raw materials%INCI namePhase AWaterqsWater / AquaPhase BGlycerin3.00GlycerinPropanediol5.00PropanediolPhase CEuxyl PE 90101.00Phenoxyethanol (and) EthylhexylglycerinPhase DSP Crodasinic LS30 NT3.00Aqua (and) Sodium Lauroyl SarcosinatePhaseEIngredient according to the invention1.0 – 3.0 / PhaseFCitric acid0.10Citric acidProcess

[0134] Weigh phase A. Add phase B to phase A. Add phase C to phase A+B. Add phase D to phase A+B+C. Add E to phase A+B+C+D. If necessary, adjust the pH to 5.5 using phase F.Example 3: Serum

[0135] Raw materials%INCI namePhase AWaterqsWater / AquaReconstituted aloe vera gel10.00Aqua (and) Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powderPhase BGlycerin3.00GlycerinSodium benzoate0.20Sodium benzoatePotassium sorbate0.07Potassium sorbateDermofeel® PA0.10Phytic Acid (and) AquaPhase CAmigum0.20Sclerotium gumPhase DXanthan gum0.80Xanthan gumPhase EPropanediol2.00PropanediolPhase FIngredient according to the invention1.0 – 3.0 / Phase GCitric acid0.13Citric acidProcess

[0136] Heat phase A to 80°C. Add phase B to phase A, with stirring. Disperse phase C in phase A+B, with stirring. Disperse phase D in phase A+B+C, with stirring. Heat E to 75°C. Cool with stirring. Add phase E to phase A+B+C+D. Add phase F to phase A+B+C+D+E. If necessary, adjust the pH to 5.5 using phase G.

[0137] Examples of other ingredients that can be added to these formulations:

[0138] Cosme-Phytami™ Camu Camu: active ingredient marketed by Alban Muller International, a source of vitamin C to revitalise the skin and improve the radiance of the complexion.

[0139] Padinami™ EC: an active ingredient marketed by Alban Muller International, helps to synthesise hyaluronic acid and collagen, providing anti-aging and moisturising properties.

[0140] Phytessence™ White Peony: an active ingredient marketed by Crodarom, to even out the skin and improve the radiance of the complexion.

[0141] Crodarom® Green Caviar: an active ingredient marketed by Crodarom, to maintain the skin's moisture level.

Claims

Camelina cake extract for a non-therapeutic cosmetic topical treatment of the skin and its appendages.Extract according to claim 1, wherein the extract is obtained by reflux extraction, maceration, decoction, infusion, leaching, means of ultrasound or microwaves, percolation, digestion or enzymatic digestion.Extract according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the extraction solvent is a hydroalcoholic solvent.Extract according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein it is dried by means of vacuum concentration, dehydration, lyophilization, atomization and / or zeodration.A cosmetic composition comprising a camelina cake extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in a physiologically acceptable medium.Use of the extract according to any one of claims 1 to 4 or a composition according to claim 5, for a non-therapeutic cosmetic topical treatment of the skin and its appendages.Use according to claim 6, wherein the treatment is selected from:- an anti-aging treatment;- a propigmenting treatment; and / or- a moisturising treatment.Use according to claim 7, wherein the anti-aging treatment is adapted to preserve and to stimulate the elasticity and resilience of the skin.Use according to claim 7 or 8, wherein the anti-aging treatment is a preventive antioxidant treatment preventing premature aging of the skin and its appendages.Use according to claim 9, wherein the anti-aging treatment is an anti-wrinkle treatment.Use according to claims 7 to 10, wherein the anti-aging treatment is a preventive anti-glycation treatment to preserve or improve the radiance of the complexion.Use according to claim 7, wherein the pro-pigmenting treatment is adapted to repigment white spots, accelerate and / or intensify the tanning skin, treating canitie, homogenise complexion and / or strengthen the phototype of people with fair and sun-sensitive skin.