A square twill terry fabric and its manufacturing method
By adopting a single-sided six-needle twill structure and specific flower weaving in the terry fabric, combined with yarn tension control, the problem of single feel on the front and back sides of the existing terry fabric is solved, achieving the diversity of the fabric and high-quality fabric effect.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN201911301147.3
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2019-12-17
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-24
- Estimated Expiration
- 2039-12-17
AI Technical Summary
The front and back sides of existing terry fabrics are too single, making it difficult to produce fabrics with different fabric effects through existing single-sided sweatshirt machines.
The twill structure with a single-sided six-needle path is adopted, and the lattice twill terry fabric is formed with a lattice pattern on the front and a straight striped pattern on the back through specific floral weaving and yarn tension control.
It realizes the diversity of the feel of the front and back sides of the fabric, enhances the visual effect and usage experience of the fabric, and ensures the yarn easy to bend and twist, the uniformity of the coil structure and the smoothness of the fabric.
Smart Images

Figure CN110804793B_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of fabrics, and particularly to a check twill terry fabric and a manufacturing method thereof. Background Art
[0002] After the back side of the terry fabric is brushed, a brushed fabric with a fluff layer is obtained. The yarn composition of the terry fabric is: using polyester filament, polyester / cotton blended yarn or nylon filament as the ground yarn, and using cotton yarn, acrylic yarn, polyester / cotton blended yarn, acetate fiber yarn, air-jet spun chemical fiber yarn, etc. as the terry yarn. The characteristics of the terry fabric are that the terry is fluffy and the fabric surface is thick, and it is widely used in spring, autumn and winter clothing.
[0003] The front side of the terry cloth is a smooth plain stitch coil or rib coil, and the coil lengths of the terries on the back side are usually the same. Therefore, the feel of the front and back sides of the fabric is too single. In addition, how to produce fabrics with different fabric surface effects based on the existing single-sided sweatshirt machines is one of the common technical problems for those skilled in the art. Summary of the Invention
[0004] The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the defects existing in the prior art and provide a check twill terry fabric, and the obtained fabric has a check pattern on the front side and a straight stripe pattern on the back terry.
[0005] To achieve the above technical effects, the technical solution of the present invention is: a check twill terry fabric, characterized in that it is a single-sided six-needle twill tissue structure, and the knitting pattern is one cycle in twenty-seven courses; the pattern of twenty-seven courses is:
[0006] The first, tenth, and nineteenth courses are tuck, float, float, tuck, float, float;
[0007] The second and eleventh courses are loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, float, float;
[0008] The third, sixth, ninth, twelfth, fifteenth, eighteenth, twentieth, twenty-first, twenty-third, twenty-fourth, twenty-sixth, and twenty-seventh courses are loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, loop formation;
[0009] The fourth, thirteenth, and twenty-second courses are float, tuck, float, float, tuck, float;
[0010] The fifth course is loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, float, loop formation, loop formation;
[0011] The seventh, sixteenth, and twenty-fifth courses are float, float, tuck, float, float, tuck;
[0012] The eighth and seventeenth courses are loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, float, float, loop formation;
[0013] The fourteenth course is loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, float, loop formation, float.
[0014] Preferably, the yarns woven in the 1st, 4th, 7th, 10th, 13th, 16th, 19th, 22nd, and 25th passes are the first yarns, and the first yarns are the loop inner yarns;
[0015] The yarns woven in the 2nd, 5th, 8th, 11th, 14th, and 17th passes are the second yarns;
[0016] The yarns woven in the 3rd, 6th, 9th, 12th, 15th, 18th, 20th, 21st, 23rd, 24th, 26th, and 27th passes are the third yarns;
[0017] Among the second yarns and the third yarns, the yarns in the 20th, 23rd, and 26th passes are the surface layer yarns, and the yarns woven in the 3rd, 6th, 9th, 12th, 15th, 18th, 21st, 24th, and 27th passes are the intermediate connecting yarns.
[0018] Preferably, the first yarns are thicker than the second yarns and the third yarns, and the fineness of the second yarns is not equal to that of the third yarns.
[0019] Preferably, the fineness of the first yarns is 8 - 16S; the fineness of the second yarns and the third yarns is 30 - 45S.
[0020] Preferably, in the check twill loop fabric, the yarn length of each pass of the first yarns is 9.0 - 9.7 cm / 50 needles, the yarn length of each pass of the second yarns is 19.5 - 20.5 cm / 50 needles; the yarn length of the third yarns in the 3rd, 6th, 9th, 12th, 15th, 18th, 21st, 24th, and 27th passes is 15.8 - 16.7 cm / 50 needles; the yarn length of the third yarns in the 20th, 23rd, and 26th passes is 19.5 - 20.5 cm / 50 needles.
[0021] Preferably, the first yarns and the second yarns are combed cotton yarns, and the third yarns are polyester - cotton blended yarns.
[0022] The second object of the present invention is to provide a manufacturing method of a check twill loop fabric, which is characterized by including a weaving step, in which the tension of the first yarns is 14 - 16 g, the tension of the second yarns is 10 - 20 g, and the tension of the third yarns is 12 - 16 g.
[0023] Preferably, the tension of the yarns in the 3rd, 6th, 9th, 12th, 15th, 18th, 21st, 24th, and 27th passes is 14 - 16 g, and the tension of the yarns in the 20th, 23rd, and 26th passes is 12 - 14 g.
[0024] The advantages and beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:
[0025] This square twill terry fabric uses a single-sided six-track twill tissue structure. The arrangement and combination of loop formation, tucking, and float yarns make the front of the fabric have clear grid patterns. Due to the drafting of the intermediate connecting yarn, the loop lengths of some of the terry loops on the back are inconsistent, and the terry loops with larger loop lengths are arranged in straight strips.
[0026] In the manufacturing method of the square twill terry fabric, the tension of the yarns input into the knitting equipment is further limited, making the yarns easy to bend and twist, with a uniform loop structure and a smooth fabric surface. Description of the Drawings
[0027] Figure 1 is the process knitting diagram of the square twill terry fabric in the embodiment;
[0028] Figure 2 is the knitting needle arrangement diagram of the square twill terry fabric in the embodiment;
[0029] Figure 3 is the cam configuration diagram of the square twill terry fabric in the embodiment. Detailed Embodiments
[0030] The following combines the drawings and embodiments to further describe the detailed embodiments of the present invention. The following embodiments are only used to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention and cannot be used to limit the protection scope of the present invention.
[0031] Selection of Yarns
[0032] The first yarn is the terry inner yarn. The fineness and yarn length of the terry inner yarn are one of the main factors determining the fabric thickness. The coarser the terry inner yarn and the longer the yarn length control, the larger the loop length of the fabric terry and the increase in fabric gram weight. However, if the terry inner yarn is too thick and / or the yarn length is too small, it is not conducive to the bending and twisting of the yarn.
[0033] The 20th, 23rd, and 26th paths of the second yarn and the third yarn are the surface layer yarns, and the remaining third yarns are the intermediate connecting yarns. There are differences in fineness and / or yarn composition between the second yarn and the third yarn. The 2nd, 5th, 8th, 11th, 14th, 17th paths and the 20th, 23rd, 26th paths of the surface layer form stripe patterns alternating in the first direction; in the complete pattern tissue, the connecting parts between adjacent cycles are interwoven by the second yarn and the third yarn. The cycle and the connecting part form a 9*9 complete pattern tissue. Among them, the second yarn is diagonally connected, and the third yarn has more loops, which is different from the 2nd, 5th, 8th, 11th, 14th, 17th paths composed of the second yarn loops on the front of the above fabric, forming stripe patterns alternating in the second direction. The first direction and the second direction correspond to the warp direction and the weft direction respectively. The combination of the stripe patterns in the two directions finally presents a grid pattern effect on the fabric surface.
[0034] Due to the pulling influence of the surface yarn, the loop length of the back loop changes regularly. The loops with larger loop length are distributed in straight strips, and the extension direction of the straight strips is consistent with the second direction mentioned above. The straight strips of loops with larger loop length are opposite to the connecting parts between the loops.
[0035] Fiber composition of yarn
[0036] The fiber composition of the yarn can also affect the checkered pattern and skin-friendly properties of the fabric: when the yarn composition is different, the second yarn is cotton yarn, and the second yarn is thicker than the third yarn, the checkered pattern on the front of the fabric is composed of cotton yarn loops, and the front of the fabric is more skin-friendly. The greater the difference in thickness between the second yarn and the third yarn, the more obvious the checkered pattern on the front of the fabric will feel.
[0037] Furthermore, the fiber composition of the yarn also determines the different dye uptake rates. By using dyes with different dye uptake rates for cotton and polyester, the difference in color depth of the dyed fabric can make the checkered visual effect on the front of the fabric more obvious.
[0038] Yarn count and yarn length
[0039] The yarn count and yarn length determine the density and texture of the fabric. The preferred 30-40S polyester-cotton-viscose blended yarn and parallel yarn make the vertical stripes on the front of the fabric clearer. The yarn count and yarn length are preferred, and the resulting fabric is suitable for making spring and autumn clothing. Example
[0040] like Figures 1-3 As shown, the checkered twill loop fabric of the embodiment is a twill structure with six needle tracks on one side, and the knitting pattern is a cycle of twenty-seven stitches; the pattern of the twenty-seven stitches is:
[0041] The first, tenth and nineteenth routes are tuck, float, float, tuck, float, float;
[0042] The second and eleventh routes are circle, circle, circle, circle, floating line, floating line;
[0043] The third, sixth, ninth, twelfth, fifteenth, eighteenth, twentieth, twenty-first, twenty-third, twenty-fourth, twenty-sixth, and twenty-seventh routes are circle, circle, circle, circle, circle, circle, circle;
[0044] Routes 4, 13, and 22 are floating line, tuck, floating line, floating line, tuck, and floating line;
[0045] The fifth route is circle, circle, circle, floating line, circle, circle;
[0046] The seventh, sixteenth and twenty-fifth routes are floating line, floating line, tuck, floating line, floating line, tuck;
[0047] The eighth and seventeenth routes are circle, circle, circle, floating line, floating line, circle;
[0048] The fourteenth course is knitting, knitting, knitting, float, knitting, float.
[0049] The yarns knitted in the first, fourth, seventh, tenth, thirteenth, sixteenth, nineteenth, twenty-second, and twenty-fifth courses are the first yarn, and the first yarn is the core yarn of the terry;
[0050] The yarns knitted in the second, fifth, eighth, eleventh, fourteenth, and seventeenth courses are the second yarn;
[0051] The yarns knitted in the third, sixth, ninth, twelfth, fifteenth, eighteenth, twentieth, twenty-first, twenty-third, twenty-fourth, twenty-sixth, and twenty-seventh courses are the third yarn;
[0052] The twentieth, twenty-third, and twenty-sixth of the second yarn and the third yarn are the surface yarns, and the yarns knitted in the third, sixth, ninth, twelfth, fifteenth, eighteenth, twenty-first, twenty-fourth, and twenty-seventh courses are the intermediate connecting yarns.
[0053] In the embodiment, the first yarn is 10S combed cotton yarn, the second yarn is 32S combed cotton yarn, and the third yarn is 40S polyester-cotton blended yarn 65 / 35.
[0054] In the square twill terry fabric, the yarn length of the first yarn is 9.3 cm / 50 needles, and the yarn length of the second yarn is 20 cm / 50 needles; the yarn length of the surface yarn in the third yarn is 19 cm / 50 needles, and the yarn length of the intermediate connecting yarn in the third yarn is 16.3 cm / 50 needles.
[0055] The WL-SF loom is adopted, with the size / number of needles being 34 inches / 20G, the number of courses being 96, the total number of needles being 2136, and the machine speed being 18 rmp; the tension of the first yarn is 15 ± 0.2 g, the second yarn forms knitting and float, and the tension varies within the range of 10 - 20 g; the tension of the yarns in the third, sixth, ninth, twelfth, fifteenth, eighteenth, twenty-first, twenty-fourth, and twenty-seventh courses of the third yarn is 15 ± 0.4 g, and the tension of the yarns in the twentieth, twenty-third, and twenty-sixth courses is 13 ± 0.4 g.
[0056] Properties of the fabric in the embodiment: Fabric weight per unit area is 293 g / m 2 , the finished fabric width is 195 cm, the weight percentage of the first yarn in the fabric is 49.33%, and the weight percentage of the second yarn is 20.63%; the weight percentage of the polyester-cotton-viscose blended yarn of the third yarn is 30.04%.
[0057] The fabric obtained in the embodiment is tested, and the performance is as follows:
[0058] 1. Washing shrinkage test: Wash in water at 40 °C for 12 min, dry, repeat 3 times, the horizontal shrinkage rate is 5%, and the vertical shrinkage rate is 7%;
[0059] 2. Stretch and recovery performance test: Elongation rate under 30N tensile force, elongation rate of transverse direction of stretching is 71.25%, elongation rate of longitudinal direction of stretching is 29.8%; After removing the tensile force, the elongation rate of the fabric in the transverse direction of recovery is 8%, and the elongation rate of the fabric in the longitudinal direction of recovery is 3%.
[0060] 3. Bursting strength: 144.4N;
[0061] 4. Warp density (number of yarns per inch in the warp direction) is 34 per inch, weft density (number of yarns per inch in the weft direction) is 28 per inch.
[0062] The front side of the fabric obtained in the embodiment has clear lattice patterns, and the back side has terry loops in a striped shape.
[0063] The above are only the preferred embodiments of the present invention. It should be noted that for those of ordinary skill in the art, without departing from the technical principle of the present invention, several improvements and refinements can be made, and these improvements and refinements should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims
1. A square twill terry fabric, characterized in that, It is a twill tissue structure with single-sided six needle beds, and the knitting pattern takes 27 courses as a cycle; the pattern of 27 courses is as follows: The 1st, 10th, and 19th courses are tuck, float, float, tuck, float, float; The 2nd and 11th courses are loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, float, float; The 3rd, 6th, 9th, 12th, 15th, 18th, 20th, 21st, 23rd, 24th, 26th, and 27th courses are loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, loop formation; The 4th, 13th, and 22nd courses are float, tuck, float, float, tuck, float; The 5th course is loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, float, loop formation, loop formation; The 7th, 16th, and 25th courses are float, float, tuck, float, float, tuck; The 8th and 17th courses are loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, float, float, loop formation; The 14th course is loop formation, loop formation, loop formation, float, loop formation, float; The knitting needles are arranged in the order of ABCABCDEF, and 9 knitting needles form a cycle; The yarns woven through the 1st, 4th, 7th, 10th, 13th, 16th, 19th, 22nd, and 25th courses are the first yarn, and the first yarn is the inner yarn of the terry; The yarns woven through the 2nd, 5th, 8th, 11th, 14th, and 17th courses are the second yarn; The yarns woven through the 3rd, 6th, 9th, 12th, 15th, 18th, 20th, 21st, 23rd, 24th, 26th, and 27th courses are the third yarn; The 20th, 23rd, and 26th of the second yarn and the third yarn are the surface yarns, and the yarns woven through the 3rd, 6th, 9th, 12th, 15th, 18th, 21st, 24th, and 27th courses are the intermediate connecting yarns; the first yarn is thicker than the second yarn and the third yarn, and the fineness of the second yarn is not equal to that of the third yarn.
2. The square twill terry fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that The fineness of the first yarn is 8 - 16S; the fineness of the second yarn and the third yarn is 30 - 45S.
3. The square twill terry fabric according to claim 2, wherein, In the square twill terry fabric, the yarn length of each course of the first yarn is 9.0 - 9.7 cm / 50 needles, and the yarn length of each course of the second yarn is 19.5 - 20.5 cm / 50 needles; the yarn length of the third yarn in the 3rd, 6th, 9th, 12th, 15th, 18th, 21st, 24th, and 27th courses is 15.8 - 16.7 cm / 50 needles; the yarn length of the third yarn in the 20th, 23rd, and 26th courses is 19.5 - 20.5 cm / 50 needles.
4. The square twill terry fabric according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that The first yarn and the second yarn are combed cotton yarns, and the third yarn is a polyester-cotton blended yarn.
5. The manufacturing method of the square twill terry fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that, It includes a knitting step, and in the knitting step, the tension of the first yarn is 14 - 16 g, the tension of the second yarn is 10 - 20 g, and the tension of the third yarn is 12 - 16 g.
6. The manufacturing method of the square twill terry fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that, The tension of the yarns in the 3rd, 6th, 9th, 12th, 15th, 18th, 21st, 24th, and 27th courses is 14 - 16 g, and the tension of the yarns in the 20th, 23rd, and 26th courses is 12 - 14 g.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Grid twill looped pile fabric
CN211227561U