Solid cosmetic composition comprising anhydrous spheroids dispersed in a solid continuous aqueous phase

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising anhydrous spheroids dispersed in a solid aqueous continuous phase. The present invention also relates to a method for preparing a solid cosmetic composition according to the present invention and a method for making up and / or caring for body and / or facial skin using the solid cosmetic composition according to the present invention. The present invention also relates to a solid gel or stick cast in a dish or jar, more particularly a lipstick, foundation and sunscreen stick, comprising a cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising anhydrous spheroids dispersed in a solid aqueous continuous phase. The present invention also relates to a method for preparing a solid cosmetic composition according to the present invention. The present invention also relates to the use of a solid cosmetic composition according to the present invention for making up and / or caring for the skin of the body and / or face. Finally, the present invention relates to a method for making up and / or caring for the skin of the body and / or face using a solid cosmetic composition according to the present invention. Background Art

[0002] The cosmetic industry is always looking for compositions that produce surprising effects. Such compositions can be, for example, compositions with a novel visual appearance by dispersing solid particles of various colors in a transparent continuous phase. They can also be novel compositions that combine performance qualities that are difficult to associate by traditional techniques, such as freshness and gloss, freshness and persistence, or gloss and persistence.

[0003] Cosmetic compositions already exist which comprise beads dispersed in a continuous fluid phase.

[0004] For example, EP 2 979 690 describes a process for preparing round beads comprising an aqueous phase in a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion coated with a solid material on the surface for better stability over time. However, the process does not allow the production of solid anhydrous beads.

[0005] FR 2 649 608 relates to a composition comprising a continuous phase in the form of an aqueous gel in which are suspended spheroids containing lipids having a melting point below 50° C. These spheroids have insufficient hardness, which affects their shape (polydisperse and inhomogeneous spheroids) and the stability of the final composition.

[0006] WO 2017 / 137597 proposes a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising fat phase beads dispersed in an aqueous continuous phase in the form of droplets obtained by a microfluidic method. The droplets consist of a shell gelled by polymerization and a liquid core.

[0007] To date, there is no solid cosmetic composition that stably combines two immiscible phases, one dispersed in the other. The reason for this is that such solid compositions comprising anhydrous spheroids without an outer coating cannot be prepared by the methods described in the prior art, since incorporating the spheroids into a hot liquid continuous phase by stirring would damage them by partially melting them or deforming them. The methods of the prior art do not allow the size of the beads to be adjusted, which depends on stirring or weight and gravity. Therefore, the first problem underlying the present invention is to obtain a cosmetic composition that is solid at room temperature, consisting of a solid aqueous continuous phase containing dispersed anhydrous spheroids, in which the spheroids are suspended and stable, do not deform, and do not leach substances into the solid aqueous continuous phase.

[0008] Furthermore, it remains a continuing goal to provide cosmetic compositions that look attractive and have a pleasant and surprising feel during application to the skin.A second problem underlying the present invention is to obtain a composition in which the anhydrous spheroids and the solid aqueous continuous phase in which the anhydrous spheroids are dispersed are soft enough to be easily crushed and applied to the skin, thus combining the properties of both phases.

[0009] A third problem underlying the present invention is to obtain a cosmetic composition whose texture is hard enough to enable it to be prepared in various forms (e.g. sticks or poured in trays or jars), and which is soft enough to allow it to be taken up and comfortably applied to the skin by friction or with a sponge.

[0010] Last, but not least, a final problem underlying the present invention is to obtain a macroscopically heterogeneous cosmetic composition which is particularly stable and non-allergenic, having better persistence and better tolerance on the skin due to the absence of surfactants. Summary of the invention

[0011] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition that is solid at room temperature, comprising:

[0012] - anhydrous spheroids comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one silicone oil and at least one lipophilic structurant,

[0013] - an aqueous continuous phase which is solid at room temperature and comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and water,

[0014] The spheroids are dispersed in the aqueous continuous phase.

[0015] The surfactant content in the solid cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably less than 4 wt%, preferably less than 3 wt%, more preferably less than 2 wt%, even more preferably less than 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition. The solid cosmetic composition of the present invention advantageously does not contain a surfactant.

[0016] Unexpectedly, the inventors observed that a solid cosmetic composition comprising two visually different phases can be prepared. The solid cosmetic composition of the present invention is a multiphase product on a macroscopic level, which distinguishes it from a homogeneous emulsion (homogeneous mixture) obtained when using a surfactant on a macroscopic level. The absence of a surfactant in the solid cosmetic composition of the present invention makes it particularly tolerant and also enables its persistence to be improved. In addition, the presence of anhydrous spheroids visible to the naked eye suspended in the continuous phase makes the composition visually attractive. The fact that the anhydrous spheroids can be colored further enhances this effect.

[0017] Another advantage of the solid cosmetic composition of the present invention is that it is very easy to apply and its surprising texture when applied to the skin. The immiscible anhydrous spheroids and the solid aqueous continuous phase are mixed together during application to enhance the freshness of the skin surface while combining the advantages of the anhydrous phase (nutrition, lasting, protection, etc.). Each of the two phases provides different characteristics, so conflicting performance qualities that are usually difficult to associate, such as freshness and glossiness, freshness and persistence, freshness and sun protection, etc., can be obtained. The surprising fresh sensory effect associated with the presence of the aqueous continuous phase is more significant than traditional emulsions. For the same water content, the solid cosmetic composition of the present invention provides a more significant fresh effect than the same composition in the form of an emulsion (wherein the fresh effect is weakened).

[0018] The cosmetic composition of the present invention can also be prepared according to a process that allows the cosmetic composition to be packaged immediately after exiting the process without requiring additional steps. Therefore, the process of the present invention is easy to industrialize.

[0019] The anhydrous spheroids and the solid aqueous continuous phase are "immiscible", which means that the spheroids of the invention do not diffuse nor disintegrate in the solid aqueous continuous phase in which they are dispersed. Advantageously, the spheroids and the aqueous continuous phase are immiscible when the two phases are in liquid form, in particular when they are heated to a temperature greater than or equal to 40°C.

[0020] For purposes of the present invention, a cosmetic composition is considered solid when it does not deform or flow under its own weight.

[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "spheroid" refers to a small solid having a substantially spherical shape with the same composition throughout the spheroid. The texture of the spheroids of the present invention is soft and deformable enough at room temperature so that they can be easily applied to the skin with low shear forces (e.g., with fingers) to produce a care or makeup effect on the skin. The diameter of the spheroids can be 0.05 mm to 10.0 mm, preferably 0.1 mm to 4.0 mm, more preferably 0.5 mm to 2.5 mm, the diameter being the average diameter measured in 10 measurements by conventional methods (e.g., using a binocular magnifier). These spheroids preferably have a regular appearance, a smooth surface, and a uniform volume. Advantageously, the spheroids of the present invention do not have any outer coating.

[0022] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "room temperature" refers to a temperature between 20°C and 25°C.

[0023] In the context of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the water content of the object is preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of the object. Thus, the term "anhydrous spheroids" means that the water content of the phase constituting these spheroids is less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight of the phase.

[0024] Advantageously, the dropping point of the spheroids is greater than 50°C, preferably between 55°C and 100°C, more preferably between 60°C and 80°C. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dropping point" refers to the temperature at which the spheroids change from solid to liquid. The dropping point is determined according to the ASTM-D 3954 standard.

[0025] For the purpose of the present invention, a cylindrical shaft with a diameter of 5 mm is subjected to a 1 mm.s -1 The aqueous continuous phase is considered solid when it has a hardness defined by a compressive strength greater than or equal to 50 g at 20° C., preferably greater than or equal to 80 g at 20° C., after being inserted into said phase at a speed of 10 mm. Advantageously, when the cosmetic composition is in the form of a stick, the aqueous continuous phase has a hardness defined by a compressive strength greater than or equal to 80 g at 20° C. The hardness of the aqueous continuous phase is preferably defined by a compressive strength less than or equal to 450 g at 20° C., more preferably less than or equal to 400 g, even more preferably less than or equal to 350 g.

[0026] The solid aqueous continuous phase can keep the spheroids in suspension for a long time (preferably more than 1 month, more preferably more than 3 months, and even more preferably more than 6 months). This structure gives the cosmetic composition of the present invention a novel appearance and can also prevent and limit the aggregation of spheroids with each other. The aqueous continuous phase also has a suspending ability for anhydrous spheroids at elevated temperatures, so that they remain suspended in the aqueous continuous phase throughout the cooling stage.

[0027] In the solid cosmetic composition of the present invention, the anhydrous spheroids advantageously account for 10 to 80 wt %, more advantageously 20 to 70 wt %, even more advantageously 30 to 60 wt %, relative to the total weight of the solid cosmetic composition.

[0028] The inventors have observed that the nature of the composition of the anhydrous spheroids may influence not only the ease of application of the cosmetic composition of the invention but also its final properties.

[0029] Hydrocarbon-based oils and / or silicone oils:

[0030] The hydrocarbon-based oil and / or silicone oil may be present in a content of 5% to 99.5% by weight, preferably 10% to 95% by weight, more preferably 20% to 90% by weight, even more preferably 30% to 85% by weight, even more preferably 40% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the spheroid.

[0031] The hydrocarbon-based oil and / or silicone oil is selected so as to be immiscible with the aqueous continuous phase.

[0032] The hydrocarbon-based oil constituting the spheroids may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and / or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, and is preferably a mixture of hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0033] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus atoms.

[0034] For the purposes of the present invention, a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is an oil that is capable of evaporating in less than one hour upon contact with the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of the present invention is an oil that is liquid at room temperature and has a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular a non-zero vapor pressure of 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10 -3 The term "non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil that remains on the skin for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and has a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (10 -3 mmHg) of oil.

[0035] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of the invention is advantageously chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched alkanes containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, for example isoalkanes containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms (also called isoparaffins) of petroleum origin, such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for example sold under the trade name IsoparTM or Permetyl (ExxonMobil Chemical); branched esters containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms (such as isohexyl neopentanoate), and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may also be used, for example petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company SHELL. Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may also be chosen from straight-chain alkanes containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms. Examples of straight-chain alkanes containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms that may be mentioned include n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C9), and n-hexane. 10 ), n-undecane (C 11 ), n-dodecane (C 12 ), n-tridecane (C 13 ), n-tetradecane (C 14 ), n-pentadecane (C 15 ) and n-hexadecane (C 16 ) and mixtures thereof, in particular n-undecane (C 1-undecane) sold under the reference name CETIOL UT by the company Cognis 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 According to one embodiment, the volatile straight-chain alkane suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane and n-tridecane and mixtures thereof.

[0036] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of the invention is advantageously chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0037] Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be mentioned in particular include: hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, for example fatty acid triesters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which contain from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. These oils are advantageously wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, gourd oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or caprylic / capric triglycerides, for example those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or sold by Dynamit Nobel under the name 812, 818, 829 and 840; or linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (such as ), squalane and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters, such as Purcellin TMoil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoic acid esters of alcohols containing 12 to 15 carbon atoms, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, caprylic, capric or ricinoleic acid esters of alcohols or polyols (such as propylene glycol dicaprylate); hydroxy esters, such as isostearyl lactylate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chains (containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms), such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, or 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, or linolenic acid; carbonates; acetals; citrates; and mixtures thereof.

[0038] The silicone oil constituting the anhydrous spheroid may be selected from volatile silicone oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils. It is preferably a mixture of silicone oils.

[0039] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile silicones, such as volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially volatile silicone oils containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing at least one alkyl or alkoxy group (containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms). Preferred volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include cyclopentadimethicone, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Mention may also be made of linear volatile alkyl trisiloxane oils chosen from 3-butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0041] A preferred volatile silicone oil is cyclopentasiloxane.

[0042] Non-volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing at least one alkyl or alkoxy group (advantageously containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms) on one side and / or at the end of the silicone chain, phenyl silicones, for example phenyl trimethylsiloxane, phenyl dimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethylsiloxane, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxane, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethylsiloxysilicate.

[0043] Fluorine oils that may be mentioned are selected from fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones. Nonafluoromethoxybutane and perfluoromethylcyclopentane are preferred fluoro oils.

[0044] The hydrocarbon-based oil and / or silicone oil constituting the spheroids are combined with at least one lipophilic structurant.

[0045] Lipophilic structurants:

[0046] The lipophilic structurant constituting the spheroids of the present invention may be selected from waxes, butters, pasty fatty compounds and / or lipophilic gelling agents, preferably lipophilic gelling agents.

[0047] The content of the lipophilic structurant may be 0.5 to 95 wt %, preferably 3 to 90 wt %, more preferably 3 to 60 wt %, even more preferably 4 to 45 wt %, even more preferably 5 to 30 wt %, relative to the total weight of the spheroid.

[0048] The wax used in the context of the present invention may be a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature, has a reversible solid / liquid state change, and has a melting point higher than 30° C., preferably between 40° C. and 120° C., more preferably between 50° C. and 110° C., even more preferably between 60° C. and 100° C. For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard NF EN ISO 11357-3. The melting point of a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name Modulated DSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

[0049] The wax mixture can advantageously be formed by mixing a wax having a high melting point, i.e. a melting point above 50° C., preferably above 70° C., with a wax having a lower melting point, i.e. a melting point below 50° C., preferably below or equal to 40° C. The mixture of a wax having a high melting point with a wax having a low melting point should be such that spheroids having a dropping point above 50° C. are obtained.

[0050] The waxes used in the context of the present invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin that are solid at room temperature, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Advantageously, the wax of the invention may be chosen from:

[0052] - hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, elm wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, olive wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon wax, paraffin wax and ozokerite wax;

[0053] - fatty alcohol waxes chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols containing 20 to 60 carbon atoms;

[0054] - silicone waxes, for example alkyl- or alkoxy-dimethylpolysiloxanes having 16 to 45 carbon atoms;

[0055] - Fluorine wax;

[0056] - hydrocarbon waxes, which advantageously contain from 18 to 60 carbon atoms, for example microcrystalline wax SP-88 and microcrystalline wax SP-16W (Strahland Pitsch Inc.) and polyethylene waxes, for example wax (Jeen International Corporation) and (Baker Hughes); and

[0057] - A mixture thereof.

[0058] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil can be selected from: C10-18 triglycerides (INCI name: C10-18 triglycerides) comprising a liquid portion and a solid portion at room temperature and atmospheric pressure; shea butter; Nilotica shea (Butyrospermum parkii) butter; avocado (Butyrospermum parkii) butter; Borneo butter / grease or Tengkawang (Shoreastenoptera) oil; shorea butter; illipé butter; Madhuca or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter; Madhuca latifolia butter; Katiau (Madhuca mottleyana butter; Phulwara (M.butyracea) butter; Mango (Mangifera indica) butter; Star palm (Astrocatyummurumuru) butter; Candlenut (Garcinia indica) butter; Yellow wax tree (Virola sebifera) butter; Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea) butter; Coffee (Coffea arabica) butter; Almond (Prunus armeniaca) butter; Macadamia (Macadamia temifolia) butter; Grape (Vitis vinifera) seed butter; Avocado (Persea gratissima) butter; Olive (Olea europaea) butter; Sweet almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) butter; Cocoa (Theobroma cacao butter; sunflower butter; butter with the INCI name Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter; butter with the INCI name Theobromagrandiflorum seed butter; butter with the INCI name Irvingia gabonensis Kernel butter; jojoba esters (a mixture of hydrogenated jojoba waxes and oils) (INCI name Jojoba Esters); ethyl esters of shea butter (INCI name Ethyl Shea Butter); and mixtures thereof. The most preferred oils are shea butter, cupuacu, Butter, cocoa butter, avocado butter and mango butter.

[0059] The term "paste-like fatty compound" means a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising a liquid part and a solid part at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The pasty compound is selected, for example, from the group consisting of lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric silicone compounds, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid alkyl esters (preferably containing C8-C30 alkyl groups), homopolymers and copolymer-oligomers of vinyl esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, homopolymers and copolymer-oligomers of vinyl ethers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, fat-soluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C50 diols, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C6-C30 alkyl groups. 0 copolymers of long-chain alkylene oxides, diglycerides, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, non-crosslinked polyesters produced by polycondensation between a linear or branched C4-C50 dibasic or polybasic carboxylic acid and a diol or polyol, esters produced by the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid (e.g., monoisostearate, diisostearate or triisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil), a mixture of soya sterol and oxyethylenated (5OE) or oxypropylenated (5OP) pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] Lipophilic gelling agents that may advantageously be mentioned include silica, clays, optionally modified hectorites, dextrin esters, polyamides or silicone polyamides, L-glutamic acid or aspartic acid amides, hydroxystearic acid, hydrocarbon block copolymers comprising at least one styrene unit, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, polyamide-8 resins, dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, glyceryl behenate / eicosate, copolymers based on castor oil and caprylic / capric triglyceride, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] The hectorite may be a hectorite modified with an alkyl quaternary ammonium chloride, preferably an ammonium substituted with at least one, preferably at least two, alkyl groups (comprising 14 to 20 carbon atoms). The alkyl group may advantageously be a stearyl group. A compound with the INCI name Disteardimethylammonium Hectorite is mentioned, wherein the ammonium contains two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.

[0062] For the purposes of the present invention, dextrin esters are esters of dextrin and fatty acids containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably 14 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0063] The amide of L-glutamic acid (glutamine) or the amide of aspartic acid preferably comprises at least one alkanoyl group, the alkanoyl group containing 6 to 14 carbon atoms, for example 8 or 12 carbon atoms. Such amide of glutamic acid is described, for example, in patent FR 2 820739. Glutamine is preferably selected from dibutyl lauroyl glutamine, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine and mixtures thereof, and can be, for example, one of the brand names EB-21, GP-1, AJK-OD2046, AJK-BG2055 and AJK-CE2046 manufactured by Ajinomoto. Glutamine is, for example, selected from dibutyl lauroyl glutamine and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine, or mixtures thereof.

[0064] The amide or mixture of amides, in particular a mixture of glutamine, comprises, for example, 0.1 wt % to 15.0 wt %, 0.5 wt % to 15.0 wt %, 1.0 wt % to 8.0 wt %, 1.0 wt % to 5.0 wt %, or even 2.0 wt % to 5.0 wt %, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous spheroids.

[0065] For the purposes of the present invention, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer comprising at least one styrene unit is preferably a block copolymer of styrene and an olefin, for example, a copolymer comprising at least one styrene unit and a unit selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene and mixtures thereof. The hydrocarbon-based block copolymer of the present invention is advantageously selected from styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene copolymers, styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Preferred lipophilic gelling agents are selected from dibutyl lauroyl glutamide (e.g. AJKOD2046 sold by Ajinomoto), dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide (e.g. AJK GP-1 sold by Ajinomoto), polyamide-8 resins (e.g. SP OleoCraft LP20 sold by Croda), dextrin palmitate (e.g. Rheopearl KL2 sold by Miyoshi), dextrin myristate (e.g. Rheopearl MKL2 sold by Miyoshi), glyceryl behenate / eicosate (e.g. Nomcort sold by SACI-CFPA), disteardimonium hectorite (e.g. Sold by SACI-CFPA), styryl am ... 38V CG), copolymers based on castor oil and caprylic / capric triglycerides (for example Estogel M sold by DKSH), and mixtures thereof.

[0067] The inventors have observed that the nature of the ingredients of the aqueous continuous phase may have an impact not only on the ease of application of the cosmetic composition of the invention, but also on its final properties.

[0068] Hydrophilic gelling agent:

[0069] The content of hydrophilic gelling agent in the aqueous continuous phase is advantageously at least 0.3 wt. %, preferably at least 0.5 wt. %, more preferably at least 1.0 wt. %, even more preferably at least 1.2 wt. %, even more advantageously at least 1.5 wt. %, relative to the weight of the aqueous continuous phase.

[0070] Hydrophilic gelling agents that may advantageously be mentioned include natural or synthetic polysaccharides, preferably chosen from agar (for example Ina Agar CS 83 sold by IwaseCosfa), gellan gum (for example CG-LA), xanthan gum (such as sold by Solvay Novecare T or Keltrol CG LAXT sold by CP Keltro), carrageenan (such as Satiagum sold by Cargill Beauty TM VPC 430), cellulose and its derivatives, such as hydroxyethyl cellulose (e.g., sold by Ashland GF) and hydroxypropyl cellulose, corn starch, cellulose carboxymethyl ether (such as Blanose TM 7H3SF), copolymers based on bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether (for example Adeka Nol GT-700 sold by Adeka), Alcaligenes polysaccharides (for example Alcasealan sold by Iwase Cosfa), and mixtures thereof.

[0071] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent of the invention is a natural polysaccharide, preferably selected from agar, gellan gum, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.

[0072] The solid cosmetic composition of the present invention advantageously comprises at least agar; this is the most preferred natural or synthetic polysaccharide.

[0073] The solid cosmetic composition of the present invention advantageously comprises at least gellan gum; this is the most preferred natural or synthetic polysaccharide after agar.

[0074] The solid cosmetic composition of the present invention advantageously comprises at least xanthan gum; this is the most preferred natural or synthetic polysaccharide after agar and gellan gum, respectively.

[0075] The solid cosmetic composition of the present invention advantageously comprises at least agar, which is the most preferred natural or synthetic polysaccharide.

[0076] The amount of hydrophilic gelling agent present in the aqueous continuous phase depends on the nature of the hydrophilic gelling agent and is determined so that the aqueous continuous phase has a hardness defined by the following compressive strength: -1 After being inserted into the phase to a depth of 10 mm at a speed of 1000 mm, the compressive strength is greater than or equal to 50 g at 20° C., preferably greater than or equal to 80 g at 20° C.

[0077] The aqueous continuous phase may also contain at least one diol, preferably chosen from polyglycols, such as pentanediol, butylene glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycol and mixtures thereof. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the diol is vegetable glycerol. The diol content in the aqueous continuous phase is advantageously between 0% and 50% by weight, preferably between 1% and 30% by weight, even more preferably between 2% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous continuous phase.

[0078] The cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise at least one pigment and / or one pearlescent agent, and preferably at least one organic or inorganic pigment, either in the anhydrous spheroids or in the aqueous continuous phase or in both, preferably in the spheroids. The pigments and / or pearlescent agents may be surface treated, i.e. they may be subjected to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature.

[0079] The content of pigments and / or pearlescent agents is advantageously from 0 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solid cosmetic composition.

[0080] The cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise at least one UV screening agent in the anhydrous spheroids or in the aqueous continuous phase or in both. According to a preferred embodiment, the UV screening agent is present in the anhydrous spheroids.

[0081] When it is present in the anhydrous spheroid, the UV screening agent is advantageously selected from benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate (homosalate), polysilicone-15, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, titanium oxide or zinc oxide pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] When it is present in the aqueous continuous phase, the UV screening agent is advantageously phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-4, or a nano-titanium or nano-zinc dispersion.

[0083] The cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise at least one fragrance in the anhydrous spheroids or in the aqueous continuous phase or in both. According to a preferred embodiment, the fragrance is present in the anhydrous spheroids.

[0084] The cosmetic composition may further comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient selected from fillers, rheological agents, pH adjusters, antioxidants, preservatives, humectants, humectants, and the like.

[0085] The solid cosmetic composition of the invention is advantageously in the form of a stick or a solid gel poured into a tray or a jar.

[0086] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for preparing a solid cosmetic composition according to the present invention, said method comprising the following steps:

[0087] a- the preparation of the liquid aqueous continuous phase composition is carried out by mixing at least one hydrophilic gelling agent in water under stirring, preferably at a temperature ranging from 50° C. to 110° C.,

[0088] b- the preparation of the liquid spheroid composition is carried out by mixing at least one lipophilic structurant in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one silicone oil under stirring, preferably at a temperature ranging from 50° C. to 110° C.,

[0089] c-slowly injecting the liquid spheroid composition obtained at the end of step b-into a mixer in the form of droplets, so that the liquid aqueous continuous phase composition obtained at the end of step a-cycle is continuously circulated in the mixer, preferably, the mixer is T-shaped or cross-shaped,

[0090] d. recovering, at the outlet of said mixer, the composition obtained at the end of step c., containing the anhydrous spheroids dispersed and suspended in said aqueous continuous phase, and

[0091] e- The composition obtained at the end of step d- is cooled to room temperature to obtain a solid cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

[0092] According to a preferred embodiment, step a- of preparing a liquid anhydrous continuous phase composition is carried out at a temperature ranging from 60°C to 110°C, advantageously from 70°C to 110°C, even more advantageously from 80°C to 110°C.

[0093] Similarly, step b- of preparing the liquid spheroid composition is carried out at a temperature of 60 to 110°C, advantageously 70 to 110°C, even more advantageously 80 to 110°C.

[0094] According to another preferred embodiment, the injection step c- is controlled to form droplets having a diameter of 0.05 mm to 10.0 mm, preferably 0.1 mm to 4.0 mm, more preferably 0.5 mm to 2.5 mm.

[0095] According to another preferred embodiment, the injection step c- is carried out in a T-shaped mixer, which can:

[0096] - horizontally placed, injecting the liquid spherical composition vertically into the liquid aqueous continuous phase composition,

[0097] - or vertically, the liquid spherical composition and the liquid aqueous continuous phase composition are injected in a co-current position.

[0098] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the injection step c- is carried out in a horizontally positioned T-mixer. This position is preferred because it allows a more regular injection of the droplets of the anhydrous spheroid composition and a better reproducibility of the spheroid size.

[0099] A third subject of the present invention relates to the use of a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention for making up and / or caring for the body and / or facial skin, in particular the lips.

[0100] The present invention also relates to a stick comprising the solid cosmetic composition according to the present invention. More specifically, the present invention relates to a lipstick, foundation or sunscreen stick comprising the solid cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

[0101] Finally, a final subject of the invention relates to a method for making up and / or caring for the body and / or facial skin, in particular the lips, comprising the following steps:

[0102] a'-obtaining a certain amount of the solid cosmetic composition according to the present invention in an amount required for at least one application, and

[0103] b'- applying the solid cosmetic composition obtained in step a'- to the body and / or facial skin, in particular to the lips.

[0104] In addition to the aforementioned provisions, the present invention also includes other provisions, which are described in the remainder of the following description (which relates to the preparation of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention) and Figure 1 Appear. Example

[0105] Example 1: Lipstick according to the invention

[0106] A spheroid composition (Composition A) corresponding to the formulation shown in Table 1 below was prepared.

[0107] [Table 1]

[0108]

[0109] All ingredients of composition A were heated, mixed and homogenized at 85°C.

[0110] Measurement of Dropping Point of Anhydrous Spheroids:

[0111] The dropping point measurement is carried out using a Mettler Toledo DP 70 Dropping Point System device according to standard ASTM-D 3954. The spheroid composition is heated to the point where all the ingredients are completely melted and then poured into a goblet with a hole in the bottom with a diameter of 2.8 mm. Before measuring the dropping point, this goblet is placed at a temperature of 20°C for 24 hours. The goblet is then placed in an oven with a heating rate of 1°C per minute. The temperature at which the first drop passes through the hole in the goblet is called the dropping point.

[0112] The dropping point of the anhydrous spheroid composition A is equal to 63.1°C.

[0113] An aqueous continuous phase composition (Composition B) was prepared corresponding to the formulation shown in Table 2 below.

[0114] [Table 2]

[0115]

[0116] First, water and vegetable glycerin are heated to a temperature of 85° C. under stirring. A hydrophilic gelling agent is then added to the aqueous mixture. After the mixture is homogenized, a solid gel is obtained.

[0117] An aqueous continuous phase composition (Composition B') was prepared corresponding to the same formulation as shown in Table 2 above, but without vegetable glycerin. The vegetable glycerin was replaced with water.

[0118] Characterization of the solid aqueous continuous phase:

[0119] The solid aqueous continuous phase was characterized by measuring hardness, visual observation and evaluation of sensory quality.

[0120] For this purpose, water and preservatives were mixed under stirring at a temperature of 85° C., then the hydrophilic gelling agent was added and the whole was mixed under stirring for 15 minutes at 85° C. The obtained mixture was poured into 15 mL vials and rods with a diameter of 1 cm.

[0121] Hardness measurement:

[0122] The 15 mL vials were placed at room temperature for 24 hours and then placed in an oven at 20 °C for 24 hours.

[0123] Hardness measurements were performed using a texture analyzer (TA-XTPLUS Texture Analyzer, Stable Microsystems) according to the following parameters:

[0124] - Insertion speed: 1mm.s -1 ,

[0125] - Used cylindrical shaft: cylindrical diameter 5mm,

[0126] - Insertion depth: 10mm.

[0127] Three vials were prepared for the anhydrous continuous phase and three measurements were performed on each vial, for a total of nine measurements on the anhydrous continuous phase.

[0128] When a cylindrical shaft with a diameter of 5 mm is subjected to a rotational speed of 1 mm.s -1 After being inserted into the anhydrous continuous phase to a depth of 10 mm at a speed of 100.5 g, the aqueous continuous phase of composition B has an average compressive strength equal to 100.5 g, measured at 20° C. It is therefore considered “solid” in the sense of the present invention.

[0129] When a cylindrical shaft with a diameter of 5 mm is subjected to a rotational speed of 1 mm.s -1 After being inserted into the anhydrous continuous phase to a depth of 10 mm at a speed of 1 , the aqueous continuous phase of composition B' has an average compressive strength equal to 114.9 g, measured at 20° C. It is therefore considered “solid” in the sense of the present invention.

[0130] Visual observation of the sticks of composition B and composition B':

[0131] The rods with a diameter of 1 cm were left at room temperature for 24 hours.

[0132] The stick is then opened to a length of 2.5 cm and then held horizontally for 1 minute. The curvature of the stick in the horizontal position is observed: it has a curvature of continuity of the structure of the stick in the horizontal position, which confirms its "solid" nature in the sense of the invention.

[0133] Sensory quality evaluation of aqueous continuous phases B and B':

[0134] After 24 hours at room temperature, the sticks provided a fresh feel, dispersed completely and had good cohesion during spreading (did not break during application).

[0135] Preparation of lipstick according to the invention:

[0136] The homogeneous fluid mixture composition A was injected in the form of drops into a T-shaped mixer in which the aqueous continuous phase composition B was continuously circulated in the liquid state (heated to a temperature of 85°C).

[0137] Characterization of the method:

[0138] Flow rate of composition A: 1 mL.min -1 ,

[0139] Flow rate of composition B: 5 mL.min -1 ,

[0140] Composition A / Composition B weight ratio: 30 / 70,

[0141] Droplet diameter: 1.8mm.

[0142] Upon exiting the process, the resulting composition consisting of the aqueous continuous composition of composition A and the anhydrous spheres of composition B is poured directly into packaging sticks. The sticks are then left to cure at room temperature.

[0143] A lipstick is obtained comprising anhydrous spheroids dispersed in an aqueous continuous phase. This product combines a freshness effect, very good nourishment and very good color persistence on the lips.

[0144] Example 2: Sunscreen stick according to the invention

[0145] A spheroid composition (Composition A) corresponding to the formulation shown in Table 3 below was prepared.

[0146] [Table 3]

[0147]

[0148] All ingredients of composition A were heated, mixed and homogenized at 85°C.

[0149] The dropping point of the anhydrous spheroid composition A is equal to 61.3°C.

[0150] An aqueous continuous phase composition (Composition B) was prepared corresponding to the formulation shown in Table 4 below.

[0151] [Table 4]

[0152]

[0153] First, water and vegetable glycerin are heated to a temperature of 85° C. under stirring. Then a hydrophilic gelling agent is added to the aqueous mixture. After the mixture is homogenized, a solid gel is obtained.

[0154] The homogeneous fluid mixture composition A was injected in the form of drops into a T-shaped mixer in which the aqueous continuous phase composition B was continuously circulated in the liquid state (heated to a temperature of 85°C).

[0155] Characterization of the method:

[0156] Flow rate of composition A: 2 mL.min -1 ,

[0157] Flow rate of composition B: 20 ​​mL.min -1 ,

[0158] Composition A / Composition B weight ratio: 40 / 60,

[0159] Droplet diameter: 1mm.

[0160] Upon exiting the process, the resulting composition consisting of the aqueous continuous composition of composition A and the anhydrous spheres of composition B is poured directly into packaging sticks. The sticks are then left to cure at room temperature.

[0161] A sunscreen stick is obtained comprising anhydrous spheroids dispersed in an aqueous continuous phase. This product combines a fresh effect with very good UV protection.

[0162] Example 3: Sunscreen stick according to the present invention

[0163] A spheroid composition (Composition A) corresponding to the formulation shown in Table 5 below was prepared.

[0164] [Table 5]

[0165]

[0166] All ingredients of composition A were heated, mixed and homogenized at 85°C.

[0167] The dropping point of the anhydrous spheroid composition A is equal to 66.1°C.

[0168] An aqueous continuous phase composition (Composition B) was prepared corresponding to the formulation shown in Table 6 below.

[0169] [Table 6]

[0170]

[0171] First, water and vegetable glycerin are heated to a temperature of 85° C. under stirring. Then a hydrophilic gelling agent is added to the aqueous mixture. After the mixture is homogenized, a solid gel is obtained.

[0172] The homogeneous fluid mixture composition A was injected in the form of drops into a T-shaped mixer in which the aqueous continuous phase composition B was continuously circulated in the liquid state (heated to a temperature of 85°C).

[0173] Characterization of the method:

[0174] Flow rate of composition A: 2 mL.min -1 ,

[0175] Flow rate of composition B: 12 ​​mL.min -1 ,

[0176] Composition A / Composition B weight ratio: 30 / 70,

[0177] Droplet diameter: 2.5mm.

[0178] Upon exiting the process, the resulting composition consisting of the aqueous continuous composition of composition A and the anhydrous spheres of composition B is poured directly into packaging sticks. The sticks are then left to cure at room temperature.

[0179] A sunscreen stick is obtained comprising anhydrous spheroids dispersed in an aqueous continuous phase. This product combines a fresh effect with very good UV protection.

[0180] Example 4: Aqueous Care Stick According to the Invention

[0181] A spheroid composition (Composition A) corresponding to the formulation shown in Table 7 below was prepared.

[0182] [Table 7]

[0183]

[0184] All ingredients of composition A were heated, mixed and homogenized at 85°C.

[0185] The dropping point of the anhydrous spheroid composition A is equal to 61.6°C.

[0186] An aqueous continuous phase composition (Composition B) was prepared corresponding to the formulation shown in Table 8 below.

[0187] [Table 8]

[0188]

[0189] First, water and vegetable glycerin are heated to a temperature of 85° C. under stirring. Then a hydrophilic gelling agent is added to the aqueous mixture. After the mixture is homogenized, a solid gel is obtained.

[0190] The homogeneous fluid mixture composition A was injected in the form of drops into a T-shaped mixer in which the aqueous continuous phase composition B was continuously circulated in the liquid state (heated to a temperature of 85°C).

[0191] Characterization of the method:

[0192] Flow rate of composition A: 1.5 mL.min -1 ,

[0193] Flow rate of composition B: 10 mL.min -1 ,

[0194] Composition A / Composition B weight ratio: 30 / 70,

[0195] Droplet diameter: 2.1mm.

[0196] Upon exiting the process, the resulting composition consisting of the aqueous continuous composition of composition A and the anhydrous spheres of composition B is poured directly into packaging sticks. The sticks are then left to cure at room temperature.

[0197] A stick is obtained containing anhydrous care spheres dispersed in an aqueous continuous phase. This product combines a bleaching effect with a freshness effect.

[0198] Example 5: Fragrance composition in the form of a stick according to the invention

[0199] A spheroid composition (Composition A) corresponding to the formulation shown in Table 9 below was prepared.

[0200] [Table 9]

[0201]

[0202] All ingredients of composition A were heated, mixed and homogenized at 85°C.

[0203] The dropping point of the anhydrous spheroid composition A is equal to 75°C.

[0204] An aqueous continuous phase composition (Composition B) was prepared corresponding to the formulation shown in Table 10 below.

[0205] [Table 10]

[0206]

[0207] First, water and vegetable glycerin are heated to a temperature of 85° C. under stirring. Then a hydrophilic gelling agent is added to the aqueous mixture. After the mixture is homogenized, a solid gel is obtained.

[0208] The homogeneous fluid mixture composition A was injected in the form of drops into a T-shaped mixer in which the aqueous continuous phase composition B was continuously circulated in the liquid state (heated to a temperature of 85°C).

[0209] Characterization of the method:

[0210] Flow rate of composition A: 3 mL.min -1 ,

[0211] Flow rate of composition B: 11.2 mL.min -1 ,

[0212] Composition A / Composition B weight ratio: 30 / 70,

[0213] Droplet diameter: 2.8mm.

[0214] Upon exiting the process, the resulting composition consisting of the aqueous continuous composition of composition A and the anhydrous spheres of composition B is poured directly into packaging sticks. The sticks are then left to cure at room temperature.

[0215] A stick is obtained containing aromatized anhydrous spheroids dispersed in an aqueous continuous phase. This product combines a fresh effect with a pleasant aroma

[0216] Example 6: Sunscreen composition according to the invention in a pan

[0217] A spheroid composition (Composition A) corresponding to the formulation shown in Table 11 below was prepared.

[0218] [Table 11]

[0219]

[0220] All ingredients of composition A were heated, mixed and homogenized at 85°C.

[0221] The dropping point of the anhydrous spheroid composition A is equal to 61.3°C.

[0222] An aqueous continuous phase composition (Composition B) was prepared corresponding to the formulation shown in Table 12 below.

[0223] [Table 12]

[0224]

[0225] First, water and vegetable glycerin are heated to a temperature of 85° C. under stirring. Then a hydrophilic gelling agent is added to the aqueous mixture. After the mixture is homogenized, a solid gel is obtained.

[0226] The homogeneous fluid mixture composition A was injected in the form of drops into a T-shaped mixer in which the aqueous continuous phase composition B was continuously circulated in the liquid state (heated to a temperature of 85°C).

[0227] Characterization of the method:

[0228] Flow rate of composition A: 1 mL.min -1 ,

[0229] Flow rate of composition B: 20 ​​mL.min -1 ,

[0230] Composition A / Composition B weight ratio: 35 / 65,

[0231] Droplet diameter: 1.3mm.

[0232] Upon exiting the process, the resulting composition consisting of the aqueous continuous composition of composition A and the anhydrous spheres of composition B was poured directly into a tray. The tray was then left to cure at room temperature.

[0233] A disc containing anhydrous spheroids dispersed in an aqueous continuous phase is obtained. After cooling, the product can be taken out with a sponge or fingers. The product combines a freshness effect with good UV protection.

[0234] Example 7: Comparative Example

[0235] A comparison was made between a solid cosmetic composition according to the present invention prepared according to the same method as previously described in Example 1 and a cosmetic composition of the same formulation prepared according to a different method in which the liquid composition of the anhydrous spheroids and the aqueous continuous phase were thoroughly mixed without forming anhydrous spheroids dispersed in the aqueous continuous phase.

[0236] The comparative composition was prepared by mixing a liquid composition of anhydrous spheroids (composition A) and an aqueous continuous phase (composition B) under vigorous stirring at a temperature of 85° C. A macroscopically homogeneous composition was obtained, which was then poured into packaging sticks. The sticks were then left to solidify at room temperature.

[0237] The freshness of the cosmetic composition was then evaluated by five different panelists. During application to the lips, the freshness of the composition was evaluated by each panelist, noting a sensory quality from 1 to 9, 1 corresponding to no freshness at all and 9 corresponding to a very fresh effect.

[0238] The evaluation results of sensory quality are shown in Table 13 below:

[0239] [Table 13]

[0240]

[0241] From the above results, it can be seen that the cosmetic composition of the present invention provides a more significant freshness during its application to the lips than the comparative cosmetic composition. In addition, the composition of the present invention is more uniformly dispersed than the comparative composition.

[0242] Example 8: Comparative Example

[0243] An aqueous continuous phase composition was prepared according to the same method as described in Example 1. This aqueous continuous phase composition corresponded to the same formulation as shown in Table 2 of Example 1, except that 1.8% by weight of neutralized Carbopol Ultrez 10 (INCI name: CARBOMER) (GATTEFOSSE) was used instead of 1.8% by weight of agar, xanthan gum and gellan gum. The obtained mixture was poured into 15 mL vials and sticks with a diameter of 1 cm.

[0244] Measurement of rod hardness:

[0245] According to the same method as described in Example 1, the hardness (g, average value) of the obtained sticks was 6 g.

[0246] When a cylindrical shaft with a diameter of 5 mm is subjected to a rotational speed of 1 mm.s -1 Since the compressive strength of the aqueous continuous phase is less than 50 g (the measurement is carried out at 20° C.) after being inserted into the anhydrous continuous phase to a depth of 10 mm at a speed of 1000 μm, the aqueous continuous phase is not considered to be “solid” in the sense of the present invention.

[0247] Visual observation of sticks:

[0248] According to the same method described in Example 1, a rod-shaped object with a diameter of 1 cm was placed at room temperature for 24 hours, then opened to a length of 2.5 cm, and then kept horizontally for 1 minute. The obtained rod-shaped object was a liquid gel that did not agglomerate together and flowed due to its own weight in a horizontal position. The photograph of the obtained rod-shaped object is shown in FIG. Figure 1 shown.

[0249] Example 9: Comparative Example

[0250] Two anhydrous spheroid compositions (composition C and composition D) were prepared corresponding to the spheroids of patent application FR 2 649 608. These spheroids have a melting point of 36-38° C. A pigment is added to facilitate the visualization of these spheroids.

[0251] Composition C and composition D are as follows:

[0252] [Table 14] Composition C:

[0253]

[0254]

[0255] [Table 15] Composition D:

[0256]

[0257] Spheroids of composition C and composition D were prepared according to the following method:

[0258] - Heat, mix and homogenize the ingredients at 50°C.

[0259] -Once the mixture is homogeneous, slowly disperse it into the aqueous phase heated to the same temperature. Continue stirring until droplets are obtained.

[0260] - The mixture was then rapidly cooled by adding an aqueous phase cooled to 0° C. Stirring was stopped to avoid damaging the solidified spheroids.

[0261] -The spheroids were then filtered and dried at room temperature.

[0262] Characterization of obtained spheroids:

[0263] The obtained anhydrous spheroids of composition C and composition D were characterized according to the above tests. The results are collated in Table 16 below.

[0264] [Table 16]

[0265]

[0266] Unlike the spheroids of the present invention, the spheroids of composition C and composition D have a melting point below 50°C and are unstable over time. In addition, the obtained spheroids are irregular and have an elongated (non-spherical) shape that cannot be reproduced. In addition, the handling of the spheroids during the addition of the spheroids to the aqueous continuous phase is very difficult: when the spheroids are added to the hot aqueous continuous phase, the spheroids lose their shape and melt, which makes it impossible to add them to the aqueous continuous phase.

Claims

1. A surfactant-free solid multi-phase cosmetic composition, characterized in that: The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition comprises: - anhydrous spheroids comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one silicone oil and at least one lipophilic structurant, - a solid aqueous continuous phase comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and water, The spheroids are dispersed in the solid aqueous continuous phase, Wherein, the dropping point of the spheroid is greater than 50°C; wherein the spheroids account for 30 wt % to 60 wt % relative to the total weight of the solid multi-phase cosmetic composition; and Wherein, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from agar, gellan gum, xanthan gum and a mixture thereof.

2. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein: The diameter of the spherical body is 0.05 mm to 10.0 mm.

3. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: The spheroids are devoid of any outer coating.

4. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: The dropping point of the spheroids is 55°C to 100°C.

5. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: The dropping point of the spheroids is 60°C to 80°C.

6. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: The aqueous continuous phase has a hardness defined by the following compressive strength, when a cylindrical mandrel with a diameter of 5 mm is pressed at a speed of 1 mm.s -1 After being inserted into the phase to a depth of 10 mm at a speed of 1000 nm, the compressive strength is greater than or equal to 50 g at 20° C.

7. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: At a temperature greater than or equal to 40°C, the anhydrous spheroids and the aqueous continuous phase are immiscible.

8. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: The lipophilic structurant is selected from waxes, oils, pasty fatty compounds and / or lipophilic gelling agents.

9. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein: The lipophilic structurant is selected from lipophilic gelling agents.

10. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein: The wax is selected from natural waxes, hydrocarbon waxes, fatty alcohol waxes containing 20 to 60 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

11. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein: The oil is selected from the group consisting of C10-18 triglycerides with the INCI name C10-18 triglycerides comprising a liquid portion and a solid portion at room temperature and atmospheric pressure; Shea butter; Shea butter; Borneo butter or ester or Tengkawang oil; Sauvignon oleoresin; Indian hematite resin; Bauhinia or Chenopodium longifolia oleoresin; Chenopodium longifolia butter; Katiau butter; Phulwara butter; Mango butter; Astragalus palm butter; Candlenut butter; Yellow wax resin; Tucuma butter; Painya butter; Coffee butter; Apricot butter; Macadamia butter; Grape seed butter; Avocado butter; Olive butter; Sweet almond butter; Cocoa butter; Sunflower butter; butter with the INCI name Murumuru seed butter; butter with the INCI name Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter; butter with the INCI name Mangifera indica kernel butter; jojoba esters with the INCI name Jojoba esters; ethyl esters of shea butter with the INCI name Shea butter ethyl esters; and mixtures thereof.

12. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein: The pasty fatty compound is selected from the group consisting of: lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric silicone compounds, copolymers of (meth) alkyl acrylates, homopolymers and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, homopolymers and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, fat-soluble polyethers produced by polyetherification between one or more C2-C50 diols, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C6-C30 long-chain alkyl oxides, diglycerides, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, non-crosslinked polyesters produced by condensation between linear or branched C4-C50 dibasic or polybasic carboxylic acids and diols or polyols, esters produced by the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil and isostearic acid, mixtures of soybean sterols and ethylene oxide and propylene oxide pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof.

13. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein: The lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from silica, clays, optionally modified hectorites, dextrin esters, polyamides or silicone polyamides, L-glutamic acid or aspartic acid amides, hydroxystearic acid, hydrocarbon block copolymers comprising at least one styrene unit, polyamide-8 resins, dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, glyceryl behenate / eicosate, polymers based on castor oil and caprylic / capric triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

14. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: The hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from natural or synthetic polysaccharides.

15. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: The anhydrous spheroids and / or the aqueous continuous phase comprise at least one pigment and / or one pearlescent agent.

16. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 15, wherein: The anhydrous spheroids and / or the aqueous continuous phase comprise at least one organic or inorganic pigment.

17. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: The anhydrous spheroids and / or the aqueous continuous phase comprise at least one UV screening agent.

18. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 17, wherein: The UV shielding agent is selected from benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, polysilicone-15, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, titanium oxide or zinc oxide pigment, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, nano titanium or nano zinc dispersion, and mixtures thereof.

19. The solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: The spheroids and / or the aqueous continuous phase comprise at least one fragrance.

20. A method for preparing a solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that: The method comprises the following steps: a- the preparation of a liquid aqueous continuous phase composition is carried out by mixing at least one hydrophilic gelling agent in water under stirring, b- the preparation of the liquid spheroid composition by mixing, under stirring, at least one lipophilic structurant in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one silicone oil, c-slowly injecting the liquid spheroid composition obtained at the end of step b-into the mixer in the form of droplets, so that the liquid aqueous continuous phase composition obtained at the end of step a-cycle is continuously circulated in the mixer, d. recovering, at the outlet of said mixer, the composition obtained at the end of step c., containing anhydrous spheroids dispersed and suspended in said aqueous continuous phase, and e- Cooling the composition obtained at the end of step d- to room temperature to obtain a solid multiphase cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 19.

21. Use of a solid multiphase cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 for making up the body and / or facial skin.

22. A rod-shaped object, characterized in that: The stick comprises the solid multi-phase cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-19.

23. A solid gel cast in a tray or a can, characterized in that The solid gel comprises the solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-19.

24. A lipstick, characterized in that: The lipstick comprises the solid multiphase cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-19.

25. A foundation, characterized in that: The foundation comprises the solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-19.

26. A sunscreen stick, characterized in that: The sunscreen stick comprises the solid multi-phase cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-19.

27. A method for applying makeup to body and / or facial skin, characterized in that: The method comprises the following steps: a'-obtaining a certain amount of the solid multi-phase cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 in an amount required for at least one application, and b'- applying the solid multiphase cosmetic composition obtained in step a'- to the body and / or facial skin.

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