Oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic

By using N-acyl acidic amino acid-treated powder and a surfactant with a specific HLB value in water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics, the problems of color difference after application and color difference after contact with water were solved, thereby improving the stability and user experience of the cosmetics.

CN114601755BActive Publication Date: 2026-04-21TOKIWA CORP
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Patents(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
TOKIWA CORP
Filing Date
2021-12-07
Publication Date
2026-04-21

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics exhibit a color difference between the product's appearance after application and the color applied to the skin. Furthermore, the color changes significantly upon contact with water, making it difficult to accurately convey the applied color through the appearance alone.

Method used

By employing a combination of powder treated with N-acyl acidic amino acids, water-soluble thickeners, and surfactants with specific HLB values, the powder is ensured to be fully dispersed in the oil phase and to form a stable coating film after application, thus reducing color difference.

Benefits of technology

It also reduces the color difference between the product's appearance and the color applied to the skin, as well as the color difference when in contact with water, thereby improving the water resistance and user experience of the cosmetic mask.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Patent Text Reader

Abstract

The present application provides an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic, which comprises (A) a powder, (B) a water-soluble thickening agent, and (C) a surfactant, the content of the (A) component is 1-30% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic, the (A) component contains (A1) a powder treated with an N-acyl acidic amino acid, the (C) component contains (C1) a solid nonionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 7 and (C2) a surfactant with an HLB of 7 or more, and the mass ratio [(C1):(C2)] of the (C1) component to the (C2) component is 1.5:1-30:1.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic. Background Technology

[0002] Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics have gained high praise for their ability to provide a moisturizing and refreshing feel, and are widely used in makeup products, sunscreens, and other products.

[0003] Since the external phase of water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics is water, when combined with powder components, hydrophilic powders are usually used in combination with highly hydrophilic surfactants. However, such cosmetics have poor water resistance after application and may experience makeup smudging due to sweating or other factors.

[0004] On the other hand, considering water / sweat resistance, for example, Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2013-136569 discloses a sunscreen cosmetic containing an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic with hydrophobically treated microparticle metal oxide powder. Summary of the Invention

[0005] However, in the case of color cosmetics, pigments and other colorants are often incorporated into the powder components. Water-in-oil emulsions containing hydrophobic pigments present the following problems: sometimes the product's appearance differs from the color applied to the skin, making it difficult to convey the applied color to the buyer through the appearance. On the other hand, as mentioned above, water-in-oil emulsions containing hydrophilic pigments have poor water resistance in the cosmetic film, thus their color can change upon contact with water.

[0006] The purpose of this invention is to provide a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic that can simultaneously reduce the color difference between the product's appearance and the color applied to the skin, as well as the color difference that occurs when in contact with water.

[0007] To address the aforementioned problems, this invention provides an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic, comprising (A) powder, (B) a water-soluble thickener, and (C) a surfactant. The content of component (A) is 1-30% by mass based on the total amount of the cosmetic. Component (A) contains (A1) N-acyl acidic amino acid-treated powder. Component (C) contains (C1) a solid nonionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 7 and (C2) a surfactant with an HLB of 7 or higher. The mass ratio of component (C1) to component (C2) [(C1):(C2)] is 1.5:1 to 30:1.

[0008] The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention can simultaneously reduce the color difference between the product's appearance and the color applied to the skin, as well as the color difference that occurs when in contact with water.

[0009] It should be explained that the inventors of this invention speculate as follows regarding the reasons for achieving the above-mentioned effects. First, in water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics containing hydrophobic pigments, the reason for the color difference between the product's appearance color and the applied color on the skin can be cited as a case where, although the external phase of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic is water, the external phase changes from water to oil during the application to the skin. That is, the inventors of this invention believe that the main reason for the color difference is that the pigment is dispersed in the internal phase in the product state, but dispersed in the external phase due to phase inversion. The inventors of this invention believe that the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of this invention, by having the above-described structure, can (i) sufficiently disperse the (A1) component in the internal phase, which is the oil phase, and (ii) form a coating film that can sufficiently retain the (A1) component after application. When the (A1) component is used as a colorant, by (i), an appearance color close to the applied color can be obtained in the product state, thereby suppressing the color difference caused by the aforementioned phase inversion, and by (ii), the color difference generated upon contact with water can be reduced.

[0010] In the above (A1) components, the IOB value (inorganic-organic balance) of the powder treatment agent can be 2 to 5.

[0011] In the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention, as the above-mentioned component (C2), it may contain a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 7 or more (C2-1).

[0012] In the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of the present invention, the above-mentioned component (C2) may contain hydrogenated lecithin (C2-2).

[0013] According to the present invention, an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic can be provided that can simultaneously reduce the color difference between the product's appearance color and the color applied to the skin, as well as the color difference that occurs when in contact with water. Detailed Implementation

[0014] The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of this embodiment contains (A) a powder component (sometimes also referred to as component (A)), (B) a water-soluble thickener (sometimes also referred to as component (B)) and (C) a surfactant (sometimes also referred to as component (C)).

[0015] <(A) Powder ingredients>

[0016] As a powder component, it can be used in conjunction with known powders used in cosmetics, such as extender powders and coloring pigments. For powders, there are no particular restrictions on their shape (spherical, plate-like, needle-like, etc.), particle size (smoke-like, microparticle, pigment-grade, etc.), and particle structure (porous, non-porous, etc.). For component (A), it can be used alone or in combination with two or more.

[0017] In the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of this embodiment, component (A) may contain (A1) N-acyl acidic amino acid treated powder (hereinafter also referred to as component (A1)). Component (A1) may be used alone or in combination with two or more.

[0018] The acyl group in N-acyl acidic amino acids can be an acyl group with 8 to 24 carbon atoms. The acidic amino acid in N-acyl acidic amino acids can be glutamic acid or aspartic acid. N-acyl acidic amino acids can be sodium salts or potassium salts.

[0019] Examples of N-acyl acidic amino acids include N-stearoylglutamic acid, N-lauroylglutamic acid, N-myristoylglutamic acid, and their salts. Specifically, examples include sodium stearoylglutamate, disodium stearoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, disodium lauroylglutamate, and potassium myristoylglutamate.

[0020] For component (A1), it is sufficient to cover part or all of the surface of the substrate powder with N-acyl acidic amino acids. There are no particular limitations on the processing method, and it can be obtained by known methods such as dry preparation or wet preparation. The amount of N-acyl acidic amino acids relative to 100 parts by weight of substrate powder can be set to 1 to 10 parts by weight or 1 to 5 parts by weight.

[0021] For component (A1), commercially available products such as NAI-treated powder (display name: disodium stearoyl glutamate, N-(1-oxooctadecyl)-L-glutamate disodium salt) from Miyoshi Chemical Co., Ltd. can be used. Specifically, examples include NAI-Citan CR-50 (NAI-treated titanium dioxide), NAI-Red R-516PS (NAI-treated iron oxide red), NAI-Iero LL-100P (NAI-treated iron oxide yellow), and NAI-Black BL-100P (NAI-treated iron oxide black) (all product names from Miyoshi Chemical Co., Ltd.).

[0022] The IOB value of the powder treatment agent for component (A1) can be 2 to 5. It should be noted that in this specification, the IOB value is well known and represents the ratio of inorganic value to organic value obtained based on the organic concept map, indicating the degree of polarity of the oily matrix, and is expressed by the following formula (I).

[0023] IOB = Inorganic Value (IV) / Organic Value (OV) ... (I)

[0024] Specifically, IOB can be calculated using the above formula (I) based on "Prediction of Organic Compounds and Organic Concept Maps" (Fujita (Chemistry Field 11-10), 1957, pp. 719-725) and "Emulsion Formulation Design Based on Organic Concept Maps" (Japan Emulsion Co., Ltd., Yaguchi, 1985, p. 98).

[0025] Below are examples illustrating the IOB values ​​(values ​​in parentheses) of N-acyl acidic amino acids.

[0026] Sodium stearoyl glutamate (2.17), disodium stearoyl glutamate (3.26), sodium lauroyl glutamate (2.94), disodium lauroyl glutamate (4.41), potassium myristoyl glutamate (2.63).

[0027] In the case where component (A1) is a powder treated with two or more treatment agents, its IOB value is the sum of the values ​​obtained by multiplying the IOB of each treatment agent by the amount of each treatment agent and dividing by the total amount of the treatment agent.

[0028] As a base powder in ingredient (A1), any ingredient commonly used in cosmetics can be used without particular restrictions. Examples include extender powders and coloring pigments. Extender powders include inorganic powders, synthetic inorganic powders, organic powders, metallic soaps, and synthetic polymer powders. More specifically, examples include glass powder, anhydrous silicate, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, mica, synthetic fluorphlogopite, kaolin, sericite, synthetic sericite, talc, phlogopite, synthetic mica, silicon dioxide, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, aluminum oxide, boron nitride, silicon carbide, barium sulfate, zinc stearate, aluminum stearate, zinc tetradecanoate, polyethylene powder, urethane beads, polymethyl methacrylate, and organopolysiloxane elastomers. As coloring pigments, examples include iron oxide red, iron oxide yellow, iron oxide black, cobalt oxide, chromium oxide, ultramarine, iron blue, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, particulate titanium dioxide, pearlescent pigments (mica titanium, iron oxide-coated mica titanium, particulate titanium dioxide-coated mica titanium, barium sulfate-coated mica titanium, fish scale foil, bismuth oxychloride, flake aluminum powder, etc.), organic pigments (red No. 228, red No. 226, blue No. 404, red No. 202, yellow No. 4 aluminum lake, etc.), and natural pigments (carmine, safflower, etc.).

[0029] From the perspective of improving color difference, the substrate powder in component (A1) can be a coloring pigment.

[0030] From the viewpoint of improving color difference, good spreadability, and uniformity, the content of (A1) component in water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics, based on the total amount of cosmetics, can be 1% by mass or more, preferably 3% by mass or more, and more preferably 5% by mass or more. Furthermore, the content of (A1) component, based on the total amount of cosmetics, can be 30% by mass or less, 25% by mass or less, or 20% by mass or less.

[0031] Furthermore, from the viewpoint of improving color difference and usability, the content of component (A1), based on the total amount of component (A), can be 1% by mass or more, preferably 10% by mass or more, and more preferably 20% by mass or more. Additionally, the content of component (A1), based on the total amount of component (A), can be 100% by mass or less, 90% by mass or less, or 80% by mass or less.

[0032] The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of this embodiment may also contain powders other than those mentioned in (A1). Such powders can be any ingredients commonly used in cosmetics without particular limitation. Examples include extender powders and coloring pigments. Examples of extender powders include inorganic powders, synthetic inorganic powders, organic powders, metal soaps, and synthetic polymer powders. More specifically, examples include glass powder, anhydrous silicate, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, mica, synthetic fluorophlogopite, kaolin, sericite, synthetic sericite, talc, phlogopite, synthetic mica, silica, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, aluminum oxide, boron nitride, silicon carbide, barium sulfate, zinc stearate, aluminum stearate, zinc tetradecanoate, polyethylene powder, urethane beads, polymethyl methacrylate, and organopolysiloxane elastomers. Examples of coloring pigments include iron oxide red, iron oxide yellow, iron oxide black, cobalt oxide, chromium oxide, ultramarine, iron blue, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, particulate titanium dioxide, pearlescent pigments (mica titanium, iron oxide-coated mica titanium, particulate titanium dioxide-coated mica titanium, barium sulfate-coated mica titanium, fish scale foil, bismuth oxychloride, flake aluminum powder, etc.), organic pigments (Red 228, Red 226, Blue 404, Red 202, Yellow 4 aluminum lake, etc.), and natural pigments (carmine, safflower, etc.). These powders can be untreated, or surface-treated to improve usability and dispersibility. Surface treatments include metal soaps, silicone compounds, fluorides, surfactants, and amino acid compounds.

[0033] From a functional perspective, such as providing coverage, color rendering, and UV protection for cosmetic purposes, the content of component (A) in water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics can be 1% by mass or more, preferably 3% by mass or more, and more preferably 5% by mass or more, based on the total amount of cosmetics. Furthermore, from a usability perspective, such as the uniformity of the cosmetic film and good spreadability, the content of component (A) can be 30% by mass or less, preferably 25% by mass or less, and more preferably 20% by mass or less, based on the total amount of cosmetics.

[0034] <(B) Water-soluble thickener>

[0035] As a water-soluble thickener, it can be used in conjunction with known water-soluble thickeners used in cosmetics, such as polysaccharide thickeners, clay minerals, acrylamide copolymers, and cellulose thickeners. For ingredient (B), it can be used alone or in combination with two or more.

[0036] Examples of polysaccharide thickeners include pectin, guar gum, xanthan gum, carrageenan, gellan gum, gum arabic, and locust bean gum.

[0037] Examples of clay minerals include silicic acid (Al / Mg), silicic acid (Na / Mg), bentonite, aluminum silicate, and sodium silicate.

[0038] Examples of acrylamide copolymers include polyacrylamide, (hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate) copolymer, (sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate) copolymer, (ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP) copolymer, and (ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / behenol polyether 25 methacrylate) crosslinked polymer.

[0039] Examples of cellulose-based thickeners include methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, cellulose gum (sodium carboxymethylcellulose), hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

[0040] From the viewpoint of eliminating color inhomogeneity (uniformity of the coating film) and maintaining storage stability, the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of this embodiment may contain, as component (B), one or more selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, gum arabic, guar gum, tamarind gum, natural gellan gum, silicic acid (Al / Mg), bentonite, aluminum silicate, sodium silicate, silicic acid (Na / Mg), silicic acid (Na / Mg), (hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate) copolymer, (sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate) copolymer, (ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP) copolymer, and polyacrylamide.

[0041] Furthermore, from the viewpoint of further improving the uniformity of color uniformity (coating uniformity) and storage stability, the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of this embodiment may contain, as component (B), two or more selected from the group consisting of (sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate) copolymer, xanthan gum, and silicic acid (Al / Mg).

[0042] From the viewpoint of ensuring good dispersion of component (A1), the content of water-soluble thickener in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of this embodiment can be 0.01 to 5% by mass, 0.05 to 4% by mass, or 0.1 to 3% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetic.

[0043] <(C) Surfactants>

[0044] As surfactants, examples include anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and nonionic surfactants. For component (C), one type can be used alone or in combination of two or more types.

[0045] In the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of this embodiment, component (C) may contain a solid nonionic surfactant (hereinafter also referred to as component (C1)) with an HLB of less than 7 and a surfactant (hereinafter also referred to as component (C2)) with an HLB of 7 or more. Component (C1) and component (C2) may each be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0046] The HLB value can be calculated based on the formula described on pages 8-12 of "Emulsification and Solubility Technology" (Kogaku Tosho Co., Ltd. (Sho 59-5-20)). Furthermore, a nonionic surfactant is considered a solid if it does not exhibit fluidity at 25°C and does not undergo amorphous changes.

[0047] As (C1) components, examples include fatty acid glycerides such as glyceryl stearate (HLB3), dehydrated sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan palmitate (HLB6.7), sorbitan stearate (HLB4.7), and sorbitan sesquistearate (HLB4.2), and polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters such as stearic acid PEG-2 (HLB4.0).

[0048] The HLB content of component (C1) can be 1 or more but less than 7, or it can be 2 to 6, or it can be 3 to 5.

[0049] As component (C2), examples include (C2-1) a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 7 or higher (hereinafter also referred to as component (C2-1)) and (C2-2) hydrogenated lecithin (hereinafter also referred to as component (C2-2)). Components (C2-1) and (C2-2) can each be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0050] As a component (C2-1), examples include PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (HLB12.5), PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (HLB14), and other polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oils; polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (20E.O.) (HLB15), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (20E.O.) (HLB14.9), and other polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters; and polyoxyethylene sorbitan tetraoleate. Polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters such as tetraoleate (HLB:11.5), polyoxyethylene fatty acid glycerides such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (HLB14), PEG-15 glyceryl stearate (HLB13.5), PEG-10 glyceryl isostearate (HLB10), and PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate (HLB15), polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters such as PEG-12 laurate (HLB13.7), dehydrated sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan cocoate (HLB12), and polyglycerol fatty acid esters such as polyglycerol-10 stearate (HLB12).

[0051] The HLB content of component (C2-1) can be 7–18, 9–16, or 10–15.

[0052] The HLB content of component (C2-2) can be 7–18, 7–15, or 7–11.

[0053] From the perspective of reducing the color difference between the product's appearance and the color applied to the skin, as well as the color difference that occurs when in contact with water, the mass ratio of component (C1) to component (C2) [(C1):(C2)] can be 1.5:1 to 30:1, 2:1 to 10:1, or 2:1 to 3.9:1.

[0054] When combining components (C1) and (C2-1), their mass ratio [(C1):(C2-1)] can be 1.5:1 to 25:1 or 2:1 to 15:1.

[0055] When combining components (C1) and (C2-2), their mass ratio [(C1):(C2-2)] can be 1.5:1 to 30:1 or 2:1 to 20:1.

[0056] The content of component (C) in the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of this embodiment is based on the total amount of cosmetic and can be 0.1-9% by mass, 1-5% by mass, or 1-3% by mass.

[0057] Furthermore, from the viewpoint of preserving stability, the sum of the contents of component (C1) and component (C2), based on the total amount of component (C), can be 50% or more by mass, 60% or more by mass, 70% or more by mass, or 80% or more by mass. Conversely, the sum of the contents of component (C1) and component (C2), based on the total amount of component (C), can be less than 100% by mass, less than 95% by mass, or less than 90% by mass.

[0058] The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of this embodiment may further contain an oily component (D) (hereinafter also referred to as component (D)). Component (D) may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0059] Examples of ingredients (D) include, for example, oils, waxes, hydrocarbons, ester oils, higher alcohols, higher fatty acids, silicone oils, and oil-soluble UV absorbers. Ingredient (D) can be used alone or in combination with two or more.

[0060] As for oils and fats, examples include solid oils such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, palm oil, and lacquer fruit wax, as well as liquid oils such as jojoba seed oil, sunflower seed oil, olive oil, castor oil, macadamia seed oil, camellia seed oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, and triglycerides.

[0061] Examples of waxes include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice husk wax, sunflower seed wax, rice bran wax, whale wax, and lanolin.

[0062] Examples of hydrocarbons include polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, pure ceresin, petrolatum, liquid paraffin, squalane, and mineral oil.

[0063] Examples of ester oils include triglycerides of tris(2-methylhexanoate), cholesterol fatty acid esters, diisostearyl malate, isopropyl myristate, 2-cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, neopentyl glycol didecanoate, triisooctanoic acid triglyceride, polyglycerol triisostearate, dipolypentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, neopentyl glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, triglyceride tri(ethylhexanoate), and dimer esters.

[0064] Examples of higher alcohols include stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, octyldodecyl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol.

[0065] Examples of high-grade fatty acids include stearic acid, oleic acid, tetradecanoic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, behenic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid.

[0066] Examples of silicone oils include dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and methylpolytrimethylsiloxane.

[0067] From the viewpoint of usability and water resistance, the total content of component (D) in the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of this embodiment, based on the total amount of cosmetic, can be 1 to 40% by mass, 2 to 30% by mass, or 3 to 20% by mass.

[0068] From the viewpoint of imparting hydration and good spreadability, the water content in the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of this embodiment can be 1-95% by mass, 10-90% by mass, 20-80% by mass, or 30-70% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetic.

[0069] <Other Ingredients>

[0070] The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of this embodiment may contain ingredients other than those mentioned above. Other ingredients may be appropriately combined as needed, without impairing the effects of the present invention, such as moisturizers, water-based ingredients like lower alcohols, UV absorbers, defoamers, preservatives, vitamins, beauty ingredients, antioxidants, fragrances, etc.

[0071] Examples of humectants include 1,3-butanediol (BG), dipropylene glycol (DPG), glycerin, 1,2-pentanediol, sorbitol, and mannitol. These polyols can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0072] Examples of lower alcohols include ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, and isobutanol. They can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

[0073] In the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of this embodiment, the content of component (A) can be 1 to 30% by mass based on the total amount of cosmetic, component (A) can contain component (A1), component (C) can contain component (C1) and component (C2), and the mass ratio of component (C1) to component (C2) [(C1):(C2)] can be 1.5:1 to 30:1.

[0074] Such oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics can maintain sufficient shelf-life stability even without the presence of PEG (polyoxyethylene) groups, which are effective in stabilizing oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics. It should be noted that PEG-containing components refer to those containing [-(CH2CH2O)] formed by the addition polymerization of ethylene oxide (EO modification). n Compounds and their derivatives with the structure -].

[0075] From the viewpoint of low skin irritation, the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic of this embodiment is substantially free of PEG-containing ingredients. It should be noted that "substantially free of PEG-containing ingredients" means that no additional PEG-containing ingredients are formulated, but does not exclude the possibility of trace amounts of PEG-containing ingredients (carry-over ingredients) contained in each formulated ingredient. The content of carry-over ingredients in the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic can be less than 0.1% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetic.

[0076] From the perspective of user experience and storage stability, the viscosity of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic in this embodiment at 25°C can be 500–300,000 mPa·s, 1,000–200,000 mPa·s, or 2,000–100,000 mPa·s.

[0077] The viscosity values ​​described above are measured using a Brinell viscometer (BM type) or a Brinell viscometer (BH type) at 25°C under the following conditions.

[0078] 250~2500mPa·s: BM type, rotor No.2, speed 12rpm

[0079] 1000~10000mPa·s: BM type, rotor No.3, speed 12rpm

[0080] 5000~50000 mPa·s: BM type, rotor No.4, speed 12 rpm

[0081] 50,000~400,000 mPa·s: BH type, rotor No.7, speed 10 rpm

[0082] As examples of the uses of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics in this embodiment, examples include color cosmetics such as blush, eyeshadow, foundation, lipstick, concealer, highlighter, primer, eyeliner, and eyebrow makeup, body cosmetics such as sunscreen (sunscreen oil), and hair cosmetics such as hair wax and hair dye.

[0083] [Manufacturing method of water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics]

[0084] As a method for manufacturing the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic according to this embodiment, it can be obtained, for example, by mixing and emulsifying the above-mentioned components (A), (B), (C), (D) and other components used as needed.

[0085] As a mixing step, for example, an oil phase obtained by mixing components (A), (C1), and (D) can be emulsified by stirring while mixing the oil phase obtained by mixing components (B), (C2), and water or an aqueous component in an aqueous phase. Furthermore, for component (C), if it is a hydrophilic surfactant, it can be mixed with the aqueous phase; if it is a lipophilic surfactant, it can be mixed with the oil phase. The preferred temperature for preparing the oil phase is the temperature at which components (C) and (D) dissolve. The preferred temperature for preparing the aqueous phase is the temperature at which components (B) and (C) dissolve.

[0086] [Example]

[0087] The present invention will be further described in detail below through embodiments, but the technical scope of the present invention is not limited to these embodiments.

[0088] [Manufacturing of water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics]

[0089] (Examples 1-24 and Comparative Examples 1-7)

[0090] Using the following method, prepare water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics (foundation) according to the prescriptions shown in Tables 1-4 (the numerical values ​​of the formulations indicate the content (mass%) based on the total amount of cosmetics).

[0091] It should be noted that the details of the raw materials in Tables 1-4 and Examples 25-27 are as follows.

[0092] <(A)Component>

[0093] All NAI-treated powders used were from the NAI series manufactured by Miyoshi Chemical Co., Ltd. Additionally, all dimethyl polysiloxane-treated powders used were from the SA series manufactured by Miyoshi Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0094] <(B) Ingredients>

[0095] Copolymer-1: (Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate) copolymer

[0096] Copolymer-2: (Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP) copolymer

[0097] <(C) Ingredients>

[0098] Glyceryl stearate: HLB3, solid

[0099] Sorbitan stearate: HLB 4.7, solid

[0100] Polysorbate 80: HLB15

[0101] PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil: HLB14

[0102] PEG-10 Glyceryl Isostearate: HLB10

[0103] Sorbitan cocoate: HLB12

[0104] Polyglycerol-10 stearate: HLB12

[0105] Hydrogenated lecithin: HLB 7.9

[0106] Sorbitan isostearate: HLB5, liquid

[0107] Sorbitan sesquioleate: HLB 3.7, liquid

[0108] <Preparation Method>

[0109] Components (A), (C1), and (D) were mixed and heated to 90°C to dissolve and homogenize them, forming the oil phase. Next, components (B), (C2), and an aqueous component containing water were mixed and heated to 90°C to dissolve them, forming the aqueous phase. The oil phase was added to the aqueous phase at 90°C while stirring to emulsify them, and then cooled to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic (foundation). It should be noted that the sorbitan isostearate of Comparative Example 6 and the sorbitan sesquioleate of Comparative Example 7 were mixed with the oil phase.

[0110] The obtained oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics were evaluated for various aspects based on the following evaluation method. The results are shown in Table 5.

[0111] <Color difference between appearance and coating>

[0112] Measure 0.5 mg / cm 2 The cosmetic material was evenly applied to artificial skin using fingers wearing finger cots and allowed to dry at room temperature, thus forming a coating film. The color difference ΔE* between the cosmetic material block and the coating film was measured using a colorimeter CR-400 (made by Konikami Norita), and the color difference between the appearance color and the coating film was judged according to the following evaluation criteria.

[0113] [Judgment Criteria]

[0114] A: ΔE* < 1.5

[0115] B: 1.5≤ΔE*<2

[0116] C: 2 ≤ ΔE* < 2.5

[0117] D: 2.5 ≤ ΔE*

[0118] Color difference after contact with water

[0119] Measure 0.5 mg / cm 2 The cosmetic material was evenly applied to artificial skin using fingers wearing finger cots and allowed to dry at room temperature to form a film. 5 mg of water was added to the film using a pipette, and then the water was wiped away. The color difference ΔE* between the film and the film after water removal was measured using a CR-400 colorimeter, and the color difference after contact with water was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.

[0120] [Judgment Criteria]

[0121] A: ΔE* < 1.5

[0122] B: 1.5 ≤ ΔE* < 2.0

[0123] C: 2.0≤ΔE*

[0124] Water resistance (contact angle)

[0125] Measure 0.5 mg / cm 2 The cosmetic material was evenly applied to artificial skin using a finger wearing a finger cot and allowed to dry at room temperature, forming a film. 1-2 ml of water was added to this film, and after 1 minute, an image was captured from the side using a camera. Based on this image, the droplet's profile was analyzed, the contact angle was calculated, and the water resistance was evaluated according to the following criteria. It should be noted that the contact angle is the angle between the water droplet and the coating film, a value obtained using the tangent method.

[0126] [Judgment Criteria]

[0127] A: Contact angle of 70° or higher

[0128] B: Contact angle is 40° or higher but less than 70°

[0129] C: Contact angle less than 40°

[0130] <Usability (coverage, good stretch, no unevenness)>

[0131] Ten members of a cosmetics evaluation panel evaluated the usability of the cosmetics used in the examples and comparative examples, focusing on aspects such as coverage, good spreadability, and uniformity of the coating. It should be noted that the usability evaluation was conducted on a five-level scale based on the following evaluation criteria, with each sample scored. The average score from all panel members was then determined based on the following judgment criteria.

[0132] [Rating: Evaluation Criteria]

[0133] 5 points: Excellent

[0134] 4 points: Good

[0135] 3 points: Average

[0136] 2 points: Slightly poor

[0137] 1 point: poor

[0138] [Judgment Criteria (Average Score)]

[0139] A: 4 or more

[0140] B: 3 or more but less than 4

[0141] C: 2 or more but less than 3

[0142] D: Less than 2

[0143] <Maintaining Stability>

[0144] Store the cosmetics at room temperature for one month. Visually inspect the condition of the cosmetics after storage and evaluate their storage stability based on the following criteria.

[0145] [Judgment Criteria]

[0146] A: No change

[0147] B: Observation of separation or detachment from water

[0148] [Table 1]

[0149]

[0150] [Table 2]

[0151]

[0152] [Table 3]

[0153]

[0154] [Table 4]

[0155]

[0156] [Table 5]

[0157]

[0158] (Example 25: Blush)

[0159]

[0160]

[0161] The details of the above-mentioned ingredients are the same as those described above.

[0162] <Preparation Method>

[0163] Ingredients 1-8, 13, and 14 were heated and mixed at 90°C to form the oil phase. Next, ingredients 9-12 and 15-21 were heated to 90°C and mixed to form the aqueous phase. The oil phase was emulsified by stirring the aqueous phase while mixing it with the aqueous phase, and then cooled to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic (blush).

[0164] <Evaluation>

[0165] The blush was evaluated in the same way as above, and the evaluation results are as follows: color difference between appearance and coating “A”, color difference after contact with water “A”, water resistance (contact angle) “A”, color rendering (evaluation instead of hiding power) “A”, good spreadability “B”, no unevenness “B”, and storage stability “A”.

[0166] (Example 26: Eyeshadow)

[0167]

[0168]

[0169] The details of the above-mentioned ingredients are the same as those described above.

[0170] <Preparation Method>

[0171] Components 1-8 are heated to 90°C and mixed to form the oil phase. Next, components 9-16 are heated to 90°C and mixed to form the aqueous phase. The oil phase is emulsified by stirring the aqueous phase while mixing it with the aqueous phase, and then cooled to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic (eyeshadow).

[0172] <Evaluation>

[0173] The obtained eyeshadow was evaluated in the same way as above, and the evaluation results are as follows: color difference between appearance and coating “A”, color difference after contact with water “A”, water resistance (contact angle) “A”, color rendering (evaluation instead of coverage) “A”, good spreadability “A”, no unevenness “A”, and storage stability “A”.

[0174] (Example 27: Sunscreen)

[0175]

[0176]

[0177] The details of the above-mentioned ingredients are the same as those described above.

[0178] <Preparation Method>

[0179] Ingredients 1-7 are heated to 90°C and mixed to form the oil phase. Next, ingredients 8-17 are heated to 90°C and mixed to form the aqueous phase. The oil phase is emulsified by stirring the aqueous phase while mixing it with the aqueous phase, and then cooled to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic (sunscreen).

[0180] <Evaluation>

[0181] The obtained sunscreen was evaluated in the same way as above, and the evaluation results are as follows: color difference between appearance and coating “A”, color difference after contact with water “A”, water resistance (contact angle) “A”, good spreadability “A”, no unevenness “A”, and storage stability “A”.

Claims

1. A water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic, comprising: (A) powder, (B) water-soluble thickener, and (C) surfactant. The content of ingredient (A) is 1-30% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetics. The (A) component contains (A1) N-acyl acidic amino acid-treated powder. Component (C) contains a (C1) solid nonionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 7 and a (C2) surfactant with an HLB of 7 or more. The mass ratio of component (C1) to component (C2) [(C1):(C2)] is 1.5:1 to 30:

1. Component (B) comprises clay minerals and / or acrylamide copolymers. The content of PEG-based ingredients is less than 0.1% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetics.

2. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as described in claim 1, wherein, The IOB value of the powder treatment agent in component (A1) is 2 to 5.

3. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein, As the (C2) component, it contains a nonionic surfactant with (C2-1) HLB of 7 or more.

4. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein, As the (C2) component, it contains (C2-2) hydrogenated lecithin.

5. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein, The content of ingredient (A1) is at least 1% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetics. The content of ingredient (B) is 0.01% to 5% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetics. The content of component (C) is 0.1 to 9% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetics.

6. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as described in claim 5, wherein, The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic further contains (D) an oily component. The content of ingredient (D) is 1 to 40% by mass, based on the total amount of cosmetics.

7. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein, The (B) component comprises one or more of the group consisting of (sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate) copolymer and silicic acid (Al / Mg).

8. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein, The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic does not actually contain any PEG-based ingredients.

9. The water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein, The viscosity of the water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic at 25°C is 500~300000 mPa·s.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

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