A computerized flat knitting machine manufacturing method for silk knitted cheongsam

Abstract

The present invention is a computer flat knitting machine manufacturing method for a silk knitted cheongsam, and the method comprises the following steps: step 1) using a 16-needle computer flat knitting machine and a double strand of 100% silk fine yarn for computer knitting; step 2) using a two-color or three-color sesame dot jacquard weaving method; step 3) determining the jacquard pattern of the silk yarn and the density value of different parts, and testing the double strands of the silk yarn on the computer flat knitting machine, calculating the transverse and longitudinal density and elasticity value of the sample, and recording the count and number of revolutions corresponding to the width and height; step 4) calculating the chest-waist-hip difference of the cheongsam, separating the waist-hip three sections of the cheongsam to design the knitting process, and calculating the count and number of revolutions of the chest-waist-hip and hem of the cheongsam in sections; step 5) calculating various process parameters of the cheongsam. The method of the present invention can use a computer flat knitting machine to weave a delicate yarn such as silk into a cheongsam, broadens the application field of silk yarn, and has a good fit and slimming degree, a certain elasticity, and rich color and jacquard pattern changes.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the field of clothing design and manufacturing, and in particular to a computerized flat knitting machine manufacturing method for a real silk knitted cheongsam. Background Art

[0002] Woven cheongsams can be tailored to the body, but knitted cheongsams are difficult to do. Currently, knitted cheongsams on the market are either wrapped around the body with the strong elasticity of knitted skirts, or made into modified loose cheongsams by adding a stand-up collar to loose knitted dresses. It is difficult to have the same precise chest, waist and hip sizes and looseness as woven fabrics. How to solve the problem of looseness and precise size of cheongsams has become a pain point for the entire knitting industry. In addition, woven cheongsams have rich colors, which is difficult to match with knitted cheongsams due to the limited number of yarns and yarn feeders.

[0003] In view of the above problems, the present invention provides a computerized flat knitting machine production method for a silk knitted cheongsam, which utilizes jacquard technology to enrich the color and pattern changes, and accurately calculates the knitting size values ​​of the chest, waist and hips with reference to the size of the ready-made garment, so as to achieve the same body-fitting and slimming effect as woven silk fabrics. Summary of the invention

[0004] The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the problems existing in the prior art and provide a computerized flat knitting machine manufacturing method for a silk knitted cheongsam.

[0005] In order to achieve the above technical objectives and the above technical effects, the present invention is implemented through the following technical solutions:

[0006] A method for manufacturing a silk knitted cheongsam using a computerized flat knitting machine, the method comprising the following steps:

[0007] Step 1) Use a 16-needle computer flat knitting machine and 100% silk fine yarn to perform computer knitting to produce a knitted fabric with small stitches and a delicate and soft feel;

[0008] Step 2) Two-color or three-color sesame dot jacquard weaving is used to enrich the pattern and color design of the knitted cheongsam, and the garment pieces are not easy to curl. The needle exit method on the back is 1 every 1, and the number of loops on the front and back needle beds is relatively small, so as to reduce the strength requirements of the yarn during the weaving process, and it is not easy to break the yarn or tear the hole;

[0009] Step 3) Determine the jacquard pattern of the silk yarn and the density of different parts. Test the two strands of the silk yarn on a computer flat knitting machine. After washing, take a 10*10cm area on the sample and count the corresponding count and number of revolutions. After washing again, calculate the transverse and longitudinal density and elasticity of the sample, and record the count and number of revolutions corresponding to the width and height.

[0010] Step 4) Calculate the difference between the chest, waist and hip of the cheongsam, separate the waist and hip of the cheongsam into three sections to design the knitting process, and calculate the count and number of revolutions of the chest, waist, hip and hem of the cheongsam in sections;

[0011] Step 5) Calculate the process parameters of cheongsam. First, take the vertical density N: 1cm = 4.37 revolutions, and the horizontal density M: 1cm = 8.01 counts;

[0012] Total length of garment - ribbing height = body tissue height * straight density N;

[0013] Chest circumference*horizontal density=total number of needles+sewing needles;

[0014] (shoulder width - 2cm) * horizontal density M = total number of stitches for shoulder width;

[0015] Single shoulder width needles = (total number of shoulder width needles - collar width) / 2 = single shoulder needles;

[0016] Shoulder diagonal size = single shoulder width * 0.3 * vertical density = shoulder diagonal rotation number;

[0017] (shoulder size - 1cm) * straight density N = shoulder rotation number;

[0018] Total number of turns of the torso - number of diagonal turns of the shoulder - number of turns of the hanging shoulder = height of the seams on both sides of the torso.

[0019] Furthermore, in step 4), after the chest, waist, hip and hem of the cheongsam are divided into sections, the count and number of turns of each section are accurately calculated. Where the difference between the chest, waist and hip is large, the difference is first calculated, and then converted into the count and number of turns based on the density value of the sample, and then divided by 2 to obtain the value of the stitches needed to be added and closed on both sides of each row.

[0020] Furthermore, in step 5), the collar width and shoulder width need to be counted by subtracting 1 cm on each side.

[0021] Furthermore, in step 5), the density of the tape on the hem of the cheongsam placket is slightly looser than that of the main body to ensure that the tape will not deform or bulge after being put on the main body, and the density of the tape on the base of the cheongsam stand-up collar is tighter than that of the main body.

[0022] Furthermore, in step 5), 2 to 3 turns of elastic yarn are added to close the hem of the cheongsam so as to prevent it from expanding outward.

[0023] The beneficial effects of the present invention are:

[0024] The method of the invention can utilize a computerized flat knitting machine to weave silk, a delicate yarn, into a cheongsam, thereby broadening the application field of the silk yarn. The woven silk cheongsam can achieve the same body-fitting and slimming degree as a woven one, has a certain degree of elasticity, is more tolerant to body shapes, has rich colors and jacquard pattern changes, and the knitted fabric is smooth and crisp, and is more body-fitting, beautiful, and fashionable. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0025] Figure 1 This is a diagram of the cheongsam front piece molding process in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0026] Figure 2 This is a diagram of the process for forming the back piece of a cheongsam in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0027] Figure 3 The diagram for making the left and right upper collars of the cheongsam in the embodiment of the present invention;

[0028] Figure 4 This is a pattern making diagram for the hemming of the cheongsam neckline in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0029] Figure 5 This is a pattern making diagram for binding the slit at the back collar of a cheongsam in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0030] Figure 6 This is a pattern making diagram of the cheongsam shoulder hemming in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0031] Figure 7 This is a pattern making diagram for connecting the collar and bottom of a cheongsam in an embodiment of the present invention;

[0032] Figure 8 This is a pattern making diagram of the false placket strips of the cheongsam in an embodiment of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0033] The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and in combination with embodiments.

[0034] A method for manufacturing a silk knitted cheongsam using a computerized flat knitting machine, the method comprising the following steps:

[0035] Step 1) Use a 16-needle computer flat knitting machine and 100% silk fine yarn for double-ply computer knitting. The knitted fabric has small stitches and a delicate and soft feel.

[0036] Step 2) Two-color or three-color sesame dot jacquard weaving is used to enrich the pattern and color design of the knitted cheongsam, and the garment pieces are not easy to curl. The needle exit method on the back is 1 every 1, and the number of loops on the front and back needle beds is relatively small. Therefore, the strength of the yarn is not required to be high during the weaving process, and it is not easy to break the yarn or tear the hole;

[0037] Step 3) Determine the jacquard pattern of the silk yarn and the density of different parts. The two strands of the silk yarn are tested on a computer flat knitting machine. After washing, take a 10*10cm area on the sample and count the corresponding count and number of revolutions. The count is also called the number of needles, which is horizontal. One needle is called the count. The number of revolutions is vertical. One row is called the number of revolutions. One revolution equals two rows. Take a 10*10cm area to calculate its corresponding count and number of revolutions, that is, calculate how many needles there are in the horizontal direction and how many revolutions there are in the vertical direction. After washing, calculate the density and elasticity of the sample in the horizontal and vertical directions, and record the count and number of revolutions corresponding to the width and height.

[0038] Step 4) Calculate the difference between the chest, waist and hip of the cheongsam, separate the waist and hip of the cheongsam into three sections to design the knitting process, and calculate the count and number of revolutions of the chest, waist, hip and hem of the cheongsam in sections;

[0039] Step 5) Calculate the process parameters of the cheongsam. When taking the vertical density and horizontal density, the count and revolution should be pushed back one place, that is, the decimal point should be moved forward one place. Since the style area is 10*10cm, the decimal point should be pushed forward one place when taking the vertical density and horizontal density. The vertical density N: 1cm=4.37 revolutions, horizontal density M: 1cm=8.01 counts;

[0040] Total garment length - ribbing height = body tissue height * straight density. Ribbing is waste yarn, which needs to be removed after the garment pieces are knitted. Therefore, the total garment length should be deducted from the height of these waste yarns to get the net value of the garment length.

[0041] Chest circumference * horizontal density M = total number of needles + sewing needles. Among them, the sewing consumption of general fine needles is 2 needles * both sides, so the sewing needles are 4 needles;

[0042] (shoulder width - 2cm) * horizontal density M = total number of shoulder width;

[0043] Single shoulder width needles = (total number of shoulder width needles - collar width) / 2 = single shoulder needles;

[0044] Shoulder oblique size = single shoulder width * 0.3 * straight density N = shoulder oblique rotation number;

[0045] (shoulder size - 1cm) * straight density N = shoulder rotation number;

[0046] Total rotations of the torso - number of oblique rotations of the shoulder - number of rotations of the hanging shoulder = height of the seams on both sides of the torso;

[0047] This embodiment takes the size of 165 / 84A of a cheongsam garment as an example, and calculates the process parameters of the corresponding positions of each part of the cheongsam. Figure 1 and Figure 2 Produce the layout for the molding process of the front and back pieces of the cheongsam, Figures 3 to 8 Make patterns for the accessories of cheongsam.

[0048] In the step 4), after dividing the chest, waist, hip and hem of the cheongsam into sections, the count and number of turns of each section are accurately calculated. For places where the difference in chest, waist and hip is large, the difference is first calculated, and then converted into counts and turns based on the density value of the sample, and then divided by 2 to obtain the values ​​of stitches to be added and closed on both sides of each row.

[0049] In step 5), 1 cm needs to be subtracted when counting the collar width and shoulder width.

[0050] In the step 5), the density of the tape of the cheongsam placket is slightly looser than that of the main body, so as to ensure that the tape of the placket will not be deformed or arched after being put on the main body.

[0051] In step 5), 2 to 3 turns of elastic yarn are added to close the hem of the cheongsam so as to prevent it from expanding outward.

[0052] The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention and is not intended to limit the present invention. For those skilled in the art, the present invention may have various modifications and variations. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present invention shall be included in the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for making a silk knitted cheongsam by a computerized flat knitting machine, characterized in that: The method comprises the following steps: Step 1) Use a 16-needle computer flat knitting machine and 100% silk fine yarn to perform computer knitting to produce a knitted fabric with small stitches and a delicate and soft feel; Step 2) Two-color or three-color sesame dot jacquard weaving is used to enrich the pattern and color design of the knitted cheongsam, and the garment pieces are not easy to curl. The needle exit method on the back is 1 every 1, and the number of loops on the front and back needle beds is relatively small, so as to reduce the strength requirements of the yarn during the weaving process, and it is not easy to break the yarn or tear the hole; Step 3) Determine the jacquard pattern of the silk yarn and the density of different parts. Test the two strands of the silk yarn on a computer flat knitting machine. After washing, take a 10*10cm area on the sample and count the corresponding count and number of revolutions. After washing again, calculate the transverse and longitudinal density and elasticity of the sample, and record the count and number of revolutions corresponding to the width and height. Step 4) Calculate the difference between the chest, waist and hip of the cheongsam, separate the waist and hip of the cheongsam into three sections to design the knitting process, and calculate the count and number of revolutions of the chest, waist, hip and hem of the cheongsam in sections; Step 5) Calculate the process parameters of cheongsam. First, take the vertical density N: 1cm = 4.37 revolutions, and the horizontal density M: 1cm = 8.01 counts; Total length of garment - ribbing height = body tissue height * straight density N; Chest circumference*horizontal density=total number of needles+sewing needles; (shoulder width - 2cm) * horizontal density M = total number of stitches for shoulder width; Single shoulder width needles = (total number of shoulder width needles - collar width) / 2 = single shoulder needles; Shoulder diagonal size = single shoulder width * 0.3 * vertical density = shoulder diagonal rotation number; (shoulder size - 1cm) * straight density N = shoulder rotation number; Total rotations of the torso - number of oblique rotations of the shoulder - number of rotations of the hanging shoulder = height of the seams on both sides of the torso; In the step 4), after dividing the chest, waist, hip and hem of the cheongsam into sections, the count and number of turns of each section are accurately calculated. For places where the difference in chest, waist and hip is large, the difference is first calculated, and then converted into counts and turns based on the density value of the sample, and then divided by 2 to obtain the values ​​of stitches to be added and closed on both sides of each row.

2. The method for making a silk knitted cheongsam by a computerized flat knitting machine according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step 5), the collar width and shoulder width need to be calculated by subtracting 1 cm on each side.

3. The method for making a silk knitted cheongsam by a computerized flat knitting machine according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step 5), the density of the tape on the hem of the cheongsam placket is slightly looser than that of the main body to ensure that the tape will not deform or bulge after being put on the main body, and the density of the tape on the base of the cheongsam stand-up collar is tighter than that of the main body.

4. The method for making a silk knitted cheongsam by a computerized flat knitting machine according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step 5), 2 to 3 turns of elastic yarn are added to close the hem of the cheongsam so as to prevent it from expanding outward.

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