Composite processed yarn and its use

Abstract

The present invention discloses a composite processed yarn and its uses. The composite yarn comprises polyester filaments A and B, each having different dyeing mechanisms. Polyester filaments A are false-twisted yarns with a coarse and fine section structure, with the number of thick sections accounting for 30% to 70% of the total number of coarse and fine sections in polyester filaments A. Polyester filaments B are false-twisted yarns without a coarse and fine section structure. The composite processed yarn of the present invention has a wide production range, and fabrics made from it exhibit an excellent natural mottled effect after dyeing.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to a composite processed yarn and application thereof, in particular to a composite processed yarn with natural color effects of different colors. Background Art

[0002] In the apparel industry, materials with natural patterns have become a trend. Currently, a wide range of blended yarns are available on the market for producing natural patterned materials. Typical methods for producing blended yarns include: (1) On a conventional one-step fully drawn yarn machine, fully drawn yarn is combined with highly oriented yarn bundles by modifying the yarn path, modifying the drafting rollers, and adjusting the process. (2) On a conventional spinning machine, false twisted and fully drawn yarns are produced separately, and then combined on a conventional interlaced yarn machine at a speed of 300-700 m / min.

[0003] For example, patent document CN205171068U discloses a composite filament of polyester cationic dyeable filament and ordinary polyester filament. Specifically, it discloses that 55dtex / 72f cationic dyeable polyester fully drawn filament and 90dtex / 72f ordinary polyester filament are each made of one strand, and the two strands are interwoven and composited into the composite filament in a texturing machine. After dyeing, such composite filaments can produce fabrics with bright colors and different patterns. Not only can they replace yarns interwoven with multiple strands of different colors, effectively reducing weaving costs, but the color difference formed by the difference in color absorption also makes the color effect more natural and colorful. However, there are still some shortcomings in the sense of pattern.

[0004] For example, patent document CN110029419A discloses a polyester blended false-twist yarn, a preparation method, and a fabric thereof. Specifically, it discloses that polyester filaments A and B with different dyeing mechanisms are fed into the first roller through the same spindle position on a texturing machine, extended into the second roller via a hot roller, and subjected to specific process conditions to obtain a blended false-twist yarn with a natural patterned mixed color effect of four different colors. However, the pattern of such blended false-twist yarn is weak after dyeing, and "horizontal stripes" are easily formed on the fabric. Summary of the Invention

[0005] The object of the present invention is to provide a composite processed yarn with good fabric surface effect (obvious stripe feeling and no "horizontal stripe" phenomenon) and its use.

[0006] The technical solution of the present invention is:

[0007] The composite processed yarn of the present invention comprises polyester filaments A and polyester filaments B having different dyeing mechanisms. The polyester filaments A are false-twisted processed yarns having a coarse and fine segment structure, wherein the number of the thick sections accounts for 30% to 70% of the total number of the coarse and fine segments of the polyester filaments A. The polyester filaments B are false-twisted processed yarns without a coarse and fine segment structure.

[0008] Preferably, in the polyester filaments A, the diameter ratio between the thick sections and the thin sections is 1.08 to 3.00.

[0009] Preferably, in the polyester filaments A, the length of the thick places or thin places is 0.05 to 10.00 mm, and the length ratio between the thick places and the thin places is 0.25 to 4.00.

[0010] Preferably, the content of the polyester filaments A is 30 to 70% by weight, and the content of the polyester filaments B is 70 to 30% by weight.

[0011] Preferably, the polyester filament A is a cationic modified dyeable polyester fiber, and the polyester filament B is a common polyester fiber.

[0012] Preferably, the fineness of the composite polyester textured yarn is 50 to 150 dtex.

[0013] A fabric made from the composite processed yarn.

[0014] The composite processed yarn of the present invention utilizes the difference in color absorption of the polyester filaments A and B to dye, combined with the specific coarse and fine details on the polyester filaments A, so that the fabric has obvious pattern after dyeing without "horizontal stripes". DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0015] The composite processed yarn of the present invention comprises polyester filaments A and polyester filaments B having different dyeing mechanisms. Polyester filament A is a false twist processed yarn having a coarse and fine segment structure, wherein the number of the coarse segments accounts for 30% to 70% of the total number of the coarse and fine segments of polyester filament A. Polyester filament B is a false twist processed yarn without a coarse and fine segment structure.

[0016] Different dyeing mechanisms refer to the different ways in which the dye and fiber-forming polymer are combined. For example, one fiber is regular PET and another is cationic dyeable PET; another is regular PET and another is high-viscosity PET; or one is regular PET and another is polybutylene terephthalate (PBT); or one is regular PET and another is polypropylene terephthalate (PPT), and so on. By utilizing different dye-to-fiber combinations, the dyed fabrics exhibit different colors.

[0017] Polyester fiber A has a coarse and fine structure, resulting in a difference in color absorption between the coarse and fine parts during the dyeing process. Polyester filament B, however, lacks this coarse and fine structure and exhibits a different coloring effect than polyester filament A, resulting in a mottling effect. If both polyester filaments A and B were false-twisted yarns without coarse and fine parts, the lack of color absorption between the coarse and fine parts would result in the fabric appearing to have only two different colors after dyeing. However, if both polyester filaments A and B were false-twisted yarns with coarse and fine parts, the presence of coarse and fine parts in both yarns would make it difficult to form elongated stripes, and the mottling effect would be less pronounced.

[0018] The mottled effect here refers to the regular or irregular short and long stripes formed on the fabric after dyeing.

[0019] In the present invention, if the number of thick places on the polyester filament A accounts for less than 30% or greater than 70%, there is no discontinuous diameter difference on the yarn, and the style is close to that of a false-twisted yarn without thick or thin places, and no color difference can be produced.

[0020] The present invention adopts false twisted yarn mainly because air texturing processing uses high-pressure air to blow the yarn apart, so that the single fibers of the yarn are fully entangled and entanglement points are formed. The dyed cloth has a different color effect, but the coarse and fine structure of the yarn is easily blown away and destroyed under high-pressure air. After dyeing, the cloth only has a mixed color effect, and it is difficult to produce slender stripes.

[0021] Preferably, the thick-to-thin diameter ratio of the polyester filaments A of the present invention is between 1.08 and 3.00. If the thick-to-thin diameter ratio is less than 1.08, the diameter difference between the thick and thin places is not significant, and the zebra pattern effect tends to decrease. If the thick-to-thin diameter ratio is greater than 3.00, a large diameter difference exists between the thick and thin places, the yarn strength tends to decrease, and yarn breakage may occur during weaving. More preferably, the thick-to-thin diameter ratio of the polyester filaments A of the present invention is between 1.60 and 2.80.

[0022] Preferably, in the polyester filament A of the present invention, the length of the thick or thin sections is 0.05 to 1.00, and the length ratio of the thick sections to the thin sections is 0.25 to 4.00. Specifically, if the length of the thin sections is less than 0.05 mm, due to the short distance between the two thin sections, the absorption of dye by each part of the filament does not change much, and the natural striped feeling of the fabric tends to decrease; and if the length of the thick sections is less than 0.05 mm, the intensity tends to decrease due to the presence of a thin neck on the filament. If the length of the thick or thin sections is greater than 1.00 mm, long stripes may be produced after dyeing, affecting the dyeing effect. If the length ratio of the thick sections to the thin sections is less than 0.25, the striped effect of the fabric after dyeing tends to decrease. If the length ratio of the thick sections to the thin sections is greater than 4.00, the distance between two adjacent thick sections or two thin sections is too large, and long stripes may not be produced after dyeing, affecting the fabric surface.

[0023] Preferably, the fineness of the composite processed yarn of the present invention is 50 to 150 dtex. If the fineness of the composite processed yarn is less than 50 dtex, processing may be difficult or the pattern effect after dyeing may not be obvious. If the fineness of the composite processed yarn is greater than 150 dtex, the hand feel of the fabric tends to deteriorate.

[0024] Preferably, in the composite processed yarn of the present invention, polyester filament A is a cationically modified, dyeable polyester fiber, and polyester filament B is a conventional polyester fiber. This is primarily due to the fact that cationically modified, dyeable polyester fibers are easily colorable, and combined with their coarse and fine detail structure, the dyed fabric has a naturally distinct patterned feel.

[0025] The composite polyester processed yarn of the present invention can be prepared by the following method:

[0026] The pre-oriented polyester filament A is first fed into the first roller of the texturing machine, stretched by a hot needle (stretching ratio is 1.10 to 1.15 times), and then the pre-oriented polyester filament B is separately fed into the first hot box through the second roller for stretching (stretching ratio is 1.4 to 1.6 times), then passed through the false twister and the third roller, and then entangled at the entangler, and then passed through the fourth roller for winding to obtain the product.

[0027] Considering that pre-oriented polyester filaments with low elongation may be overstretched and produce hairiness when subjected to coarse and fine detail processing (including hot needle stretching and hot box stretching), and that pre-oriented polyester filaments with high elongation may be incompletely stretched and produce stiff fibers when subjected only to hot box stretching, it is preferred that polyester filament A have a greater elongation than polyester filament B in the present invention, and more preferably, polyester filament A has a greater elongation than polyester filament B, with the elongation difference being at least 40%. The elongation of polyester filament A is preferably 160% to 180%, and the elongation of polyester filament B is preferably 100% to 120%.

[0028] The present invention is described in more detail below with reference to the following examples and comparative examples, but the examples are not intended to limit the present invention.

[0029] The test methods for the various parameters involved in the present invention are as follows:

[0030] (1) Ratio of thick places and diameter ratio between thick places and thin places

[0031] ① Separating polyester filaments A with coarse and fine detail structures and polyester filaments B without coarse and fine detail structures from the composite processed yarn;

[0032] ② Randomly select 3 single fibers (length: 5 cm) from polyester filament A as test samples;

[0033] ③ Take one of the single fibers and divide it into five equal parts, each 1 cm thick. Observe under a microscope (Keyence VHX-2000). Randomly select four parts of varying thickness in each part and measure their diameters, recording them as Φ1, Φ2, Φ3, and Φ4. A total of 20 values ​​(Φ1, Φ2, Φ3, Φ4, ... Φ20) were measured for this single fiber. Calculate the average diameter of the single fiber using the following formula:

[0034] Average diameter = (Φ1+Φ2+Φ3…Φ20) ÷ 20

[0035] ④ Using the same method, measure and calculate the average diameters of the remaining two single fibers. Take the average of the three sets of data as the single fiber diameter of polyester filament A.

[0036] ⑤ The data above the single fiber diameter is the thick section diameter of the single fiber, and the data below the single fiber diameter is the thin section diameter of the single fiber. Among the 60 diameter data measured, the thick section diameter and the thin section diameter are determined. The sum of all thick section diameters is recorded as D, the number of thick sections is recorded as x, the sum of all thin section diameters is recorded as d, and the number of thin sections is recorded as y. The thick section diameter and thin section diameter of polyester filament A are calculated according to the following formula:

[0037] Thick section diameter D1=D / x, thin section diameter D2=d / y;

[0038] ⑥ Calculate the ratio of thick places and the ratio of the diameters of thick places to thin places according to the following formula:

[0039] Thick place ratio = [x / (x+y)]*100%,

[0040] Diameter ratio = D1 / D2.

[0041] (2) The length of the thick or thin part, and the ratio of the length between the thick and thin parts

[0042] ① Separating polyester filaments A with coarse and fine detail structures and polyester filaments B without coarse and fine detail structures from the composite processed yarn;

[0043] ② Randomly select 3 single fibers (length: 5 cm) from polyester filament A as test samples;

[0044] ③ Take one of the single fibers and divide it into 5 equal parts, with each part being 1 cm. Observe it under a microscope (model: Keyence VHX-2000). Randomly select 4 parts of different thicknesses in each part and measure their length and diameter. Determine the thick or thin part based on the "diameter ratio between the thick part and the thin part" and record the length of each part. Then measure the length of the thick or thin part in the remaining 4 parts.

[0045] ④Use the same method to measure the length of the thick or thin parts on the remaining two single fibers. A total of 60 length data are obtained;

[0046] ⑤ Screen out all the thick section lengths and take the average value as the thick section length L1 of the polyester filament A of the present invention; screen out all the thin section lengths and take the average value as the thin section length L2 of the polyester filament A of the present invention;

[0047] ⑥ Calculate the length ratio between thick and thin sections according to the following formula:

[0048] Length ratio = L1 / L2.

[0049] (3) Determination of fiber type

[0050] ① Separating filament A with coarse and fine structure and filament B without coarse and fine structure from the composite processed yarn;

[0051] ② Analyze filament A and filament B separately using infrared spectroscopy, and compare the measured infrared spectrum of filament A or filament B with the standard spectrum. If the standard spectrum is consistent, it can be determined that the fiber is polyester.

[0052] ③ Use FX (fluorescence spectroscopy) to further quantitatively analyze the sulfur content in the fiber. Fibers with a sulfur content of 0 are ordinary polyester fibers; fibers with a sulfur content of more than 2000 ppm are cationic dyeable polyester fibers.

[0053] (4) Striped effect

[0054] The composite processed yarn was used as warp and weft yarns to weave a woven fabric, which was then dyed with a cationic dye to obtain a dyed product. Ten experts in the field evaluated the appearance of the dyed product. The mottled texture refers to the regular or irregular short, thin, and long stripes formed on the fabric surface.

[0055] If more than 9 people think that the stripes are rich, it is judged as excellent.

[0056] 6 to 8 people think that the pattern is rich and it is judged as good.

[0057] 3 to 5 people think the pattern is rich and it is judged as average.

[0058] If less than 3 people thought the stripes were rich, the result was judged as poor.

[0059] (5) Filament elongation

[0060] Take a composite yarn longer than 30 cm and separate it into filaments A and B. Each filament A and B is placed on a Tensilon instrument (from AND Co., Japan) for measurement. Set the upper and lower clamp distance to 20 cm, the stretching speed to 200 mm / min, and the initial tension to denier * 0.1 g. Enter the fineness and other data according to the menu. After confirming the settings, begin stretching, and automatically obtain the elongation data for filament A (or filament B). Repeat the same procedure 10 times, and take the average value as the elongation of filament A (or filament B) of the present invention.

[0061] Example 1

[0062] First, CDP-POY (55 dtex, 170% elongation) as filament A was fed to the first roller of a texturing machine and stretched through a hot needle (80°C, 1.15x stretching ratio). Then, conventional PET-POY (53 dtex, 110% elongation) as filament B was fed through the second roller and then stretched through the first hot box (1.38x stretching ratio). The weight ratio of CDP-POY to conventional PET-POY was 70:30. The filaments then passed through a false twister (CDP false twist speed ratio of 1.53, conventional PET false twist speed ratio of 1.57, processing speed of 370 m / min), a third roller, and then entangled in an intertwiner. The filaments were then wound up on the fourth roller to produce the composite processed yarn of the present invention. See Table 1 for details.

[0063] Example 2

[0064] The false twist speed ratio of ordinary PET was 1.50, and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the composite processed yarn of the present invention.

[0065] Example 3

[0066] Filament A was made of PET-POY with a fineness of 53 dtex and an elongation of 110%, and Filament B was made of CDP-POY with a fineness of 55 dtex and an elongation of 170%. Other procedures were the same as in Example 1 to obtain the composite processed yarn of the present invention. See Table 1 for details.

[0067] Example 4

[0068] Filament A was made of CDP-POY with a fineness of 24 dtex and an elongation of 170%, and Filament B was made of PET-POY with a fineness of 24 dtex and an elongation of 110%. Other procedures were the same as in Example 1 to obtain the composite processed yarn of the present invention. See Table 1 for details.

[0069] Example 5

[0070] Filament A was made of CDP-POY with a fineness of 154 dtex and an elongation of 170%, and Filament B was made of PET-POY with a fineness of 124 dtex and an elongation of 110%. Other procedures were the same as in Example 1 to obtain the composite processed yarn of the present invention. See Table 1 for details.

[0071] Example 6

[0072] The weight ratio of CDP-POY to ordinary PET-POY was 30:70, and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the composite processed yarn of the present invention.

[0073] Example 7

[0074] The speed ratio of CDP-POY was set to 1.23, and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the composite processed yarn of the present invention.

[0075] Example 8

[0076] The elongation ratio at the false twisting stage was set to 1.21, and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the composite processed yarn of the present invention.

[0077] Example 9

[0078] The elongation ratio at the false twisting stage was set to 1.21, the CDP-POY speed ratio was set to 1.63, and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the composite processed yarn of the present invention.

[0079] Example 10

[0080] The elongation ratio at the false twisting stage was set to 1.21, the CDP-POY speed ratio was set to 1.43, and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the composite processed yarn of the present invention.

[0081] Example 11

[0082] Filament A was made of CDP-POY with a fineness of 128 dtex and an elongation of 170%, and Filament B was made of PET-POY with a fineness of 104 dtex and an elongation of 110%. Other procedures were the same as in Example 1 to obtain the composite processed yarn of the present invention. See Table 1 for details.

[0083] Example 12

[0084] The weight ratio of CDP-POY to ordinary PET-POY was 80:20, and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the composite processed yarn of the present invention.

[0085] Example 13

[0086] The elongation ratio at the false twisting stage was set to 1.21, the CDP-POY speed ratio was set to 1.55, and the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain the composite processed yarn of the present invention.

[0087] Comparative Example 1

[0088] CDP-POY and ordinary PET-POY were stretched by hot needles, and then passed through the second roller into the first hot box for stretching. Other details were the same as in Example 1 to obtain composite processed yarns. See Table 1 for details.

[0089] Comparative Example 2

[0090] CDP-POY was not subjected to hot needle stretching, and after hot needle stretching, the second roller and the first hot box were simultaneously stretched. The rest of the process was the same as in Example 1 to obtain a composite processed yarn. See Table 1 for details.

[0091] Table 1

[0092]

[0093] According to the above table,

[0094] (1) It can be seen from Examples 1 and 3 that, under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn with CDP as filament A (having coarse and fine details) has a better sense of different color patterns than the composite processed yarn with ordinary PET as filament A (having coarse and fine details).

[0095] (2) It can be seen from Examples 1 and 4 that, under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn with a fineness of 72 dtex has a better sense of different color patterns than the composite processed yarn with a fineness of 36 dtex.

[0096] (3) It can be seen from Example 11 and Example 5 that, under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn with a fineness of 146 dtex has a better sense of different color patterns than the composite processed yarn with a fineness of 180 dtex.

[0097] (4) It can be seen from Examples 1 and 12 that, under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn in which filament A accounts for 70% by weight has a better sense of different color patterns than the composite processed yarn in which filament A accounts for 80% by weight.

[0098] (5) It can be seen from Examples 1 and 7 that, under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn with a thick section length of 12.8 mm and a thin section length of 15.1 mm has a better sense of different color patterns than the composite processed yarn with a thick section length of 5.4 mm and a thin section length of 3.0 mm.

[0099] (6) It can be seen from Examples 1 and 9 that, under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn with a coarse to fine diameter ratio of 1.15 has a better sense of different color patterns than the composite processed yarn with a coarse to fine diameter ratio of 0.98.

[0100] (9) It can be seen from Example 13 and Example 8 that, under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn with a thick section ratio of 49%, a thick to thin section diameter ratio of 1.34, and a thick to thin section length ratio of 3.8 has a much better sense of different color patterns than the composite processed yarn with a thick section ratio of 54%, a thick to thin section diameter ratio of 1.15, and a thick to thin section length ratio of 7.2.

[0101] (10) It can be seen from Comparative Example 1 and Example 1 that, under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn in which both filaments A and B have a coarse and fine structure has a poorer sense of different color patterns than the composite processed yarn in which only filament A has a coarse and fine structure.

[0102] (11) It can be seen from Comparative Example 2 and Example 1 that, under the same conditions, the composite processed yarn with ordinary PET as the coarse and fine structure has a worse sense of different color patterns than the composite processed yarn with CDP as the coarse and fine structure.

Claims

1. A composite processed yarn, characterized by: The composite processed yarn comprises polyester filaments A and polyester filaments B having different dyeing mechanisms. The polyester filaments A are false-twisted yarns having a coarse and fine structure, wherein the number of thick sections accounts for 30% to 70% of the total number of thick and fine sections in the polyester filaments A. The polyester filaments B are false-twisted yarns without a coarse and fine structure. In the polyester filaments A, the diameter ratio between the thick sections and the fine sections is 1.33 to 3.00, and the length ratio between the thick sections and the fine sections is 0.25 to 4.

00. The fineness of the composite processed yarn is 50 to 150 dtex.

2. The composite processed yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the polyester filament A, the length of the thick section or thin section is 0.05 to 10.00 mm.

3. The composite processed yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that: The content of the polyester filaments A is 30 to 70% by weight, and the content of the polyester filaments B is 70 to 30% by weight.

4. The composite processed yarn according to claim 1, wherein: The polyester filament A is a cationic modified dyeable polyester fiber, and the polyester filament B is a common polyester fiber.

5. A fabric made from the composite processed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4.

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