A process for closing the upper and foot of leather shoes
By designing the reduction gap and "closed-loop double-line" suture process on the upper of the leather shoes, the problem of unstable upper shaping in traditional processes is solved, and the rapid flattening and bonding of the upper and upper feet and efficient production conversion is achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202211350713.1
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-10-31
- Publication Date
- 2024-12-24
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-10-31
AI Technical Summary
In the traditional leather shoes upper shaping process, problems such as "outer swelling" and not easy to flatten the shaping of the upper shaping are prone to occur, resulting in a decrease in quality and slowdown in speed.
Using the "closed-loop double-line" suture process with heel and waist stretching, several reduction gaps are designed on the front pointed sole of the shoe upper, and two suture lines are sewn along the sole of the shoe upper to fix the main heel and inner cover to reduce the folds. Achieve quick shaping of the upper and upper feet.
It effectively solves the problem of "outer swelling" on the upper and lower feet, realizes the flatness, firm bonding and clear sub-portion, and improves the rapid production speed and quality of the product.
Smart Images
Figure CN115644564B_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of shoemaking, and in particular relates to a process for closing the upper and foot of leather shoes. Background Art
[0002] The upper of leather shoes should be closed during the process of stretching and shaping, so as to facilitate the stretching of the upper, achieve wrinkle-free fit with the insole, and achieve the purpose of the upper being firmly attached and the upper opening being clear. With the development of shoemaking materials and the rapid changes in shoe styles, the upper materials and upper structures are constantly updated, which leads to the improvement of the upper shaping process method. Otherwise, the quality and speed will be reduced during the rapid production of small batches and multiple varieties of products. The traditional process method for shaping and closing the upper generally adopts: arranging the parts of the upper joint part → arranging the opening process of the heel convex point → stretching and stretching. The traditional process method is complicated and is prone to the problem of the upper foot "bulging outward" and difficulty in stretching and shaping when the upper of the leather shoe is stretched. A process method for closing the upper foot of the leather shoe upper is a new method created to achieve rapid stretching and shaping of the upper. Summary of the invention
[0003] In order to solve the problem that the upper feet of leather shoes "swell outward" and are difficult to be stretched and shaped during stretching in traditional processes, the present invention provides a process method for closing the upper feet of leather shoes by stretching the heel and waist to achieve rapid stretching and shaping of the upper feet.
[0004] The object of the present invention is achieved in the following manner:
[0005] A process for closing the upper and foot of a leather shoe comprises the following steps: designing a plurality of reduced notches at the arc length of the front tip of the upper and foot bottom edge uniformly; after the tarsal back is sealed with slurry, the front tip inner toe is glued and glued, and the heel and main heel are glued, the upper is pressed and the heel is stretched and shaped, and then a first stitch is closed-loop sewn along the bottom of the upper at a distance of 8 to 10 mm from the edge; the bottom of the upper and foot is trimmed 2 to 3 mm from the first stitch, and after the trimming is completed, a second stitch is closed-loop sewn 3 to 5 mm from the edge.
[0006] There are 5-6 reduction notches, the depth of the reduction notches is 5-6mm, and the width is 6-7mm.
[0007] Pull the bottom thread tight when sewing the second seam.
[0008] Compared with the prior art, the present invention utilizes the "closed-loop double-line" sewing process method for the bottom edge of the upper foot of leather shoes to close the bottom edge of the upper foot, so that the upper foot is flat and the edge is clear and round; then the upper foot is flat and the edge is clear after the waist and heel are stretched, so that the overall upper foot chassis is firmly bonded and flat, and the edge line is smooth, which is easy to couple with the outsole, greatly improving the speed of rapid product conversion. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0009] Figure 1 This is the original gang diagram.
[0010] Figure 2 It is a schematic diagram of sewing a line (for fixing the inner toe cap) at the bottom of the shoe upper in the prior art.
[0011] Figure 3 The invention is a schematic diagram of sewing a line on the bottom of the upper in the prior art, and after the upper is stretched to the point, the waist upper foot and the heel upper foot are adducted inward.
[0012] Figure 4 It is a schematic diagram of the reduction notch of the front tip of the front side of the present invention.
[0013] Figure 5 The utility model is a schematic diagram of two closed-loop sewing lines of the front tip reduction notch of the upper and the upper bottom opening of the upper of the leather shoe.
[0014] Figure 6 The invention is a schematic diagram of the closed loop sewing of two lines at the bottom of the upper of the present invention, and the upper is stretched to the point, and the waist upper foot and the heel upper foot are adducted.
[0015] Figure 7 It is a schematic diagram of the overall helping foot of the present invention after being tightened.
[0016] In the figure: 101-original upper, 102-fixed inner toe cap, 103-upper fold, 201-last, 202-insole, 301-front upper, 302-reduced notch, 401-upper of the present invention, 402-first stitching line, 403-second stitching line. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0017] like Figure 1 As shown, the original upper 101 specifically refers to an object composed of various components constituting the upper surface and the inner part of the shoe upper assembled together by certain methods such as stitching, bonding, and pressing. The upper is the component above the sole of the finished shoe, and can be understood as the upper that is equipped with an inner toe cap and a main heel, and the main heel and the inner toe cap are fixed by sewing the toe cap line.
[0018] like Figure 2 As shown, in the prior art, after the tarsal back is sealed with starch, the front tip inner toe cap is glued and bonded, the inner toe cap line 102 is sewn and fixed, and after the heel main heel is glued and bonded, the front upper is pressed and the heel main heel is stretched and shaped. After the shaping is completed, the last is put on and the upper is stretched, as shown in FIG. Figure 3 As shown, a plurality of upper folds 103 appear in the original shoe upper.
[0019] In order to solve the above problems existing in the prior art, the present invention invents a process method for closing the upper and foot of leather shoes, which can reduce the wrinkles of the upper and make the sole more stable after the process of gluing the outsole.
[0020] The regression principle of the arc length of the bottom edge of the front point of the upper and the arc length of the bottom edge of the front point of the last means: the arc length of the bottom edge of the front point of the shoe last is obtained by flattening, and conversely, the arc length of the bottom edge of the front point of the upper is combined with the arc length of the bottom edge of the front point of the shoe last through the regression design and process.
[0021] According to the regression principle of the arc length of the bottom edge of the front tip of the upper and the arc length of the bottom edge of the front tip of the shoe last, the present invention designs a plurality of reduction notches 302 at the arc length of the bottom edge of the front tip of the upper. Figure 4 As shown, a leather shoe of size 255 is taken as an example. The arc length of the sole edge of the front tip of the upper of the leather shoe of size 255 is 226mm, and the arc length of the bottom edge of the front tip of the shoe last is 180mm. The arc length of the bottom edge of the front tip of the upper differs from the arc length of the bottom edge of the front tip of the shoe last by 46mm. Since natural leather fabrics have the natural properties of longitudinal stretching and lateral contraction, according to research, generally natural leather shrinks by 25% in the lateral direction when stretched longitudinally. Then, the lateral contraction amount of natural leather fabrics when stretched longitudinally, or the contraction amount of the arc length of the bottom edge of the front tip of the upper is 46mm×25%=11.5mm, 46mm-11.5mm=35.5mm, and the rounded correction value is 35mm or 36mm. 5 to 6 reduction notches are arranged, the depth of the reduction notches is 5 to 6mm, and the width of the reduction notches is 6 to 7mm, so that the correction values of 7mm×5=35mm and 6mm×6=36mm are achieved, which meet the requirements of the regression reduction value.
[0022] According to the principle of size difference, shoes of other sizes are the same as above.
[0023] The leather shoe upper 401 is operated by the toe-tightening machine to pull the front toe upper foot forward, and the forward movement amount is determined by the number of reduction notches 302 reserved at the bottom edge of the front toe, the depth of the reduction notches and the width of the mouth, and the reduction notches 302 play a role in accommodating the forward movement amount. By using the linkage of the "closed loop double line", the waist and heel bottom edges are pulled forward longitudinally and retracted laterally, so that the waist and heel upper feet can be retracted inward, and the purpose of closing the bottom of the upper foot is achieved.
[0024] The present invention adds a front tip reduction notch 302 to the upper 401, and then sews a first stitch 403 in a closed loop along the bottom of the upper at a distance of 8 to 10 mm from the edge. This stitch is used to fix the main heel and the inner toe cap, and is also used to tighten the bottom edge 401 of the upper for the first time (to reduce the extensibility of natural leather).
[0025] After the closed-loop sewing of the first stitch 403, the inner lining of the upper 401 is trimmed, and then the second stitch 402 is closed-loop sewn 3 to 5 mm outward from the closed-loop sewing of the first stitch 403 to tighten the bottom edge 401 of the upper for the second time.
[0026] The function of the closed loop sewing first suture 403 and the closed loop sewing second suture 402 is to tighten the bottom edge 401 of the upper (natural leather extensibility) twice, and the main purpose is to effectively reduce the upper when tightening. Figure 3 The appearance of the middle upper wrinkles 103, after the upper of the present invention is stretched (see Figure 6 , Figure 7 ) There are only 5 micro wrinkles on the front tip, which can effectively optimize the flatness of the bottom of the upper after the upper is stretched.
[0027] After the present invention applies the above three methods of front upper front tip reduction notch 302, closed loop suture first suture 403 and closed loop suture second suture 402, the effect after the upper is stretched is as follows: Figure 7 , which can effectively reduce the upper wrinkles 103, so that the upper surface can fit the shoe last more naturally and maintain the characteristics of natural leather;
[0028] Compared with the original method, the method described above utilizes three process methods of "closed loop double line (402 / 403)" on the bottom edge of the upper foot of the leather shoe and the reduced notch 302 on the front tip of the front upper to close the bottom edge of the upper foot of the shoe, make the tip of the upper foot flat, and make the edge clear and round; furthermore, the waist and heel of the upper foot are flat and the edge is clear, so that the overall upper foot chassis is firmly bonded, flat, and the edge line is smooth, which is easy to couple with the outsole, greatly improving the speed of rapid product conversion.
[0029] The above-mentioned reduction of upper wrinkles is to make the sole more stable after the outsole bonding process.
[0030] The beneficial effects of the present invention are: maintaining the unique characteristics of natural leather; making the sole of the finished shoe more stable; no obvious feeling of foot resting in the inner cavity of the shoe when worn; reducing the difficulty of the operation of the sole buckling process; and reducing the difficulty of the bottom raising process before the sole buckling.
Claims
1. A process for closing the upper and lower edges of leather shoes, characterized in that: Design a number of evenly spaced reduction notches on the arc length of the front upper and the bottom edge of the upper; after completing the tarsal back sealing, gluing the inner toe cap of the front upper and gluing the main heel, press the front upper and stretch the main heel to shape it, and then sew the first closed-loop stitch along the bottom of the upper 8 to 10 mm away from the edge; trim the lining of the bottom of the upper 2 to 3 mm away from the first stitch. After the trimming is completed, sew the second closed-loop stitch 3 to 5 mm away from the edge.
2. The process for closing the upper and lower edges of leather shoes according to claim 1, characterized in that: There are 5-6 reduction notches, the depth of the reduction notches is 5-6mm, and the width is 6-7mm.
3. The process for closing the upper and lower edges of leather shoes according to claim 1, characterized in that: Pull the bottom thread tight when sewing the second seam.