Powder cosmetics

Abstract

An object of the present invention is to provide a powder cosmetic that has a sufficient moisturizing effect and excellent stability and usability. The powder cosmetic of the present invention is characterized by comprising: (A) a gelling agent selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyether urethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and laponite; and (B) a polyol selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, wherein the amount of water is less than 10% by mass.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to powder cosmetics. More specifically, it relates to a powder cosmetic having a high moisturizing effect, excellent stability (the ability of the cosmetic to adhere to (and remove) from) a puff, sponge, etc., and excellent usability (a soft and moist feel during use). Background Art

[0002] Powder cosmetics are a common cosmetic base used in makeup products such as foundation and eyeshadow. Typically, powder cosmetics are composed of a powder as the main component and an oil component that acts as a binder or adhesive. Because powder cosmetics primarily consist of powder, they tend to absorb oil from the skin, reducing its moisturizing properties.

[0003] Therefore, the addition of various moisturizing agents to powdered cosmetics, such as solid foundations, has been studied (Patent Documents 1-3). However, when large amounts of moisturizing ingredients are added to powdered cosmetics to provide sufficient moisturizing effects, the molded product absorbs moisture and softens, particularly when stored for extended periods in humid environments. This reduces its strength, significantly weakening it against impacts such as being dropped, and can lead to cracking. Furthermore, moisture absorption can sometimes cause the surface of the molded product to solidify, making it unusable, a condition known as caking, and thus deteriorating the product's quality.

[0004] Prior art literature

[0005] Patent Literature

[0006] Patent Document 1: Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 6-219925

[0007] Patent Document 2: Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 6-40845

[0008] Patent Document 3: Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 10-175823 Summary of the Invention

[0009] Problems to be solved by the invention

[0010] The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned actual circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide a powder cosmetic having a sufficient moisturizing effect and excellent stability and usability.

[0011] Solutions for solving problems

[0012] The present inventors have conducted intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems and have found that by incorporating a predetermined gelling agent and a predetermined polyol, a powder cosmetic can have excellent moisturizing properties while also improving stability and usability, thereby completing the present invention.

[0013] That is, the gist of the present invention is a powder cosmetic comprising:

[0014] (A) a gelling agent selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyether urethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and laponite; and

[0015] (B) a polyol selected from the group consisting of glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol,

[0016] The blending amount of water is less than 10% by mass.

[0017] It is particularly preferred that the powder cosmetic of the present invention comprises a hydrophilic gel,

[0018] The hydrophilic gel comprises:

[0019] (A) a gelling agent selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyether urethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and laponite; and

[0020] (B) a polyol selected from the group consisting of glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol,

[0021] The blending amount of water is less than 10% by mass.

[0022] Effects of the Invention

[0023] The present invention enables the creation of a powder cosmetic that exhibits excellent stability and usability despite having a sufficient moisturizing effect. Specifically, the powder cosmetic of the present invention is less likely to clump on the cosmetic surface, resulting in excellent removal (stability) of the cosmetic from a puff or sponge. Furthermore, since the cosmetic maintains an appropriate hardness, it imparts a soft and moist feel (usability) during use. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0024] The powder cosmetic of the present invention essentially contains (A) a gelling agent and (B) a polyol. These will be described in detail below.

[0025] <(A) Gelling Agent>

[0026] (A) The gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyether carbamate, gellan gum, tart bean seed gum, agar, and synthetic hectorite, and one of them or two or more thereof can be used in combination. In particular, from the viewpoint of stability and usability, hydrophobically modified polyether carbamate, gellan gum, and tart bean seed gum are preferred. In addition, as the hydrophobically modified polyether carbamate, PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyl tetradecyl alcohol polyether-20 ether and polyurethane-59 are preferred, wherein PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyl tetradecyl alcohol polyether-20 ether is most preferred.

[0027] PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether is a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane composed of a copolymer of PEG-240, decyltetradeceth-20, and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI). It is widely used in cosmetics as a hydrophilic gelling agent. Commercially available products include, for example, ADEKA NOL GT-700 (manufactured by ADEKA Corporation).

[0028] Polyurethane-59 is a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane composed of a copolymer of ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-240, myristyl steareth-100, and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI). Commercially available products include, for example, ADEKA NOL GT-930 (manufactured by ADEKA Corporation).

[0029] Gellan gum is a linear heteropolysaccharide in which four sugars, namely two glucoses, one glucuronic acid, and one rhamnose, are bound to the main chain. Examples of commercially available products include Kelcogel (manufactured by DSP GOKYO FOOD & CHEMICAL CO., LTD.).

[0030] Tamarind gum is a polysaccharide having a structure called xyloglucan, with a main chain composed of glucose and side chains composed of xylose and galactose. Examples of commercially available products include Glyloid 6C (manufactured by DSP GOKYO FOOD & CHEMICAL CO., LTD.).

[0031] Agar is not particularly limited as long as it is based on agarose with high gelling power, and can directly use natural products or commercially available products. As commercially available products, for example, it is possible to preferably use Ina agar PS-84, Z-10, AX-30, AX-100, AX-200, T-1, S-5, M-7 (Ina Food Industry Co., Ltd. system) etc.

[0032] Laponite is a water-swellable clay mineral containing sodium magnesium silicate as its main component. Commercially available products may be used, and examples thereof include Laponite XLG (manufactured by BYK).

[0033] The amount of the gelling agent (A) to be added is 0.1 to 5.0% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by mass, based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

[0034] If the amount of the gelling agent (A) is less than 0.1% by mass, the gel tends to be sticky and easily lumps. On the other hand, if the amount of the gelling agent (A) exceeds 5.0% by mass, the gel tends to become hard and rough.

[0035] <(B) Polyol>

[0036] (B) The polyol is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, and one or more of these can be used in combination. In particular, glycerin is preferred from the viewpoint of excellent moisturizing properties.

[0037] The mixing ratio by mass of the gelling agent (A) and the polyol (B) in the powder cosmetic of the present invention is (A):(B) = 1:2 to 1:15, more preferably 1:5 to 1:10. Outside this mixing ratio, caking tends to occur, and the feel during use may deteriorate.

[0038] <Optional Ingredients>

[0039] The powder cosmetic of the present invention may further contain, as necessary, other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, etc., in addition to the aforementioned (A) gelling agent and (B) polyol, within the scope of not impairing the effects of the present invention. These ingredients primarily include powders, oils, water, and aqueous components. In addition, for example, water-soluble polymers, thickeners, ultraviolet absorbers, screening agents, amino acids, skin nutrients, blood circulation promoters, antiperspirants, bactericides, anti-inflammatory agents, antioxidants, preservatives, and fragrances may also be added.

[0040] <Powder>

[0041] The powders that can be incorporated into the powder cosmetics of the present invention are not particularly limited. Examples thereof include extender pigments such as talc, sericite, mica, kaolin, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstates, magnesium, silica, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate, calcium phosphate, fluoroapatite, hydroxyapatite, metal soaps, boron nitride, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, cellulose powder, silicone powder, and zinc white; colorants such as carbon black, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, ultramarine, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, organic tar pigments, and lakes; composite pigments such as titanium mica and iron oxide-coated mica; and products obtained by hydrophobizing these powders with silicone compounds, fluorine-modified silicone compounds, fluorine compounds, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, fatty acid esters, metal soaps, amino acids, quaternary ammonium salts, and alkyl phosphates. The amount of powder blended is not limited as long as the effects of the present invention can be achieved, but is generally preferably 70 to 95% by mass, more preferably 85 to 95% by mass, based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

[0042] <Oil content>

[0043] The oil component that can be incorporated into the powder cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an oil component commonly used in cosmetics, and examples thereof include liquid oils, solid oils, waxes, hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, synthetic ester oils, and silicone oils.

[0044] In the following description, POE is the abbreviation of polyoxyethylene, POP is the abbreviation of polyoxypropylene, and the number in parentheses after POE or POP represents the average number of added moles of POE groups or POP groups in the compound.

[0045] Examples of the liquid oil include avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, camellia oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla seed oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, ginkgo oil, rice bran oil, Chinese tung oil, Japanese tung oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, and triglycerol.

[0046] Examples of solid fats and oils include cocoa butter, coconut oil, horse oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, palm oil, beef tallow, sheep oil, hydrogenated beef tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef bone fat, wood wax kernel oil, hydrogenated oil, beef foot fat, wood wax, and hydrogenated castor oil.

[0047] Examples of the wax include beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, insect wax, spermaceti wax, montan wax, rice bran wax, lanolin, kapok wax, acetylated lanolin, lanolin oil, sugarcane wax, isopropyl lanolinate, hexyl laurate, hydrogenated lanolin, jojoba wax, hard lanolin, shellac wax, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin acetate, POE cholesteryl ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol ester, and POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether.

[0048] Examples of the hydrocarbon oil include liquid paraffin, ozokerite, squalane, pristane, paraffin, ceresin, squalene, vaseline, and microcrystalline wax.

[0049] Examples of higher fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, undecenoic acid, tall acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA).

[0050] Examples of higher alcohols include straight-chain alcohols (e.g., lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, etc.); branched-chain alcohols (e.g., monostearyl glyceryl ether (batyl alcohol), 2-decyltetradecyl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, cholesterol, phytosterol, hexyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, etc.); and the like.

[0051] Examples of the synthetic ester oil include isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, acetylated lanolin, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl di-2-heptylundecanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl tri- 2-Ethylhexanoate, Tricaprylin, Glyceryl triisopalmitate, Trimethylolpropane triisostearate, Cetyl 2-Ethylhexanoate, 2-Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Trimyristin, Tri-2-Heptylundecanoic Acid Glyceryl, Castor Oil Fatty Acid Methyl Ester, Oleyl Oleate, Acetylglycerol, 2-Heptylundecanoic Acid, Diisobutyl Adipate, 2-Octyldodecyl N-Lauroyl-L-Glutamate, Di-2-Heptylundecanoic Acid, Ethyl Laurate, Di-2-Ethylhexyl Sebacate, 2-Hexyldecyl Myristate, 2-Hexyldecyl Palmitate, 2-Hexyldecyl Adipate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, 2-Ethylhexyl Succinate, Triethyl Citrate, etc.

[0052] Examples of the silicone oil include dimethylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, stearyloxymethylpolysiloxane, polyether-modified organopolysiloxane, polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane, fluoroalkyl-polyoxyalkylene co-modified organopolysiloxane, alkyl-modified organopolysiloxane, fluorine-modified organopolysiloxane, amino-modified organopolysiloxane, silicone gel, acrylic silicone, trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, silicone RTV rubber and other silicone compounds.

[0053] Among the above oil components, silicone oil is preferably contained from the viewpoint of usability and feel during use.

[0054] The amount of the oil component added is not limited as long as the effects of the present invention can be achieved, but is generally preferably 5 to 30% by mass, more preferably 5 to 15% by mass, based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

[0055] <Water>

[0056] Since the present invention relates to powder cosmetics, it is preferably water-free, but a small amount of water may be added as needed. However, excessive amounts of water can easily cause clumping. Therefore, when water is added, it should be less than 10% by mass, preferably less than 8% by mass, and more preferably less than 5% by mass, relative to the total amount of the powder cosmetic. The water is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include tap water, natural water, purified water, distilled water, ion-exchanged water, and pure water.

[0057] <Water-based ingredients>

[0058] The aqueous components that can be incorporated into the powder cosmetic of the present invention are not particularly limited as long as they are water-soluble. Examples of aqueous components include lower alcohols such as ethanol, chelating agents, pH adjusters, preservatives, and the like.

[0059] <Manufacturing method>

[0060] The manufacturing method of the powder cosmetics of the present invention is not particularly limited, and known methods can be used. For example, a "dry method" in which a powder component and an oily component are mixed without using a solvent and filled into a container for molding can be used; a "wet method" in which a powder component and an oily component are added to a volatile dispersion medium for slurrying, the slurry is filled into a container and the solvent is removed for solidification; a method ("W&D method") in which the slurry is micronized into droplets using mechanical shear force, a dry gas is blown into the microdroplets for drying, and the obtained dry powder is subjected to conventional dry molding. The details of the W&D method are, for example, recorded in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2007-55990 Gazette.

[0061] Among these production methods, a dry production method that does not include a solvent removal step and a drying step is preferred.

[0062] In the method for producing a powder cosmetic of the present invention, it is preferred to pre-mix (A) the gelling agent and (B) the polyol to form a hydrophilic gel before mixing with the other ingredients. Pre-forming the hydrophilic gel allows for uniform mixing of the gelling agent (A) and the polyol with the powder ingredients, resulting in excellent softness, smoothness, and ease of application when the cosmetic is applied, as well as good removal properties.

[0063] When using PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradecyl alcohol polyether-20 ether as the gelling agent (A), it is preferable to further add a small amount of water to the hydrophilic gel to suppress crystal precipitation. The water is preferably incorporated so that the mass ratio of PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradecyl alcohol polyether-20 ether:water is 1:2 to 1:10, more preferably 1:3 to 1:8. However, in this case, as mentioned above, the amount of water in the powder cosmetic of the present invention should also be less than 10% by mass.

[0064] Furthermore, it is preferred to mix a polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane with the hydrophilic gel because the removal property is improved and the usability is further improved.

[0065] The amount of the hydrophilic gel added is preferably 1 to 20% by mass, more preferably 5 to 15% by mass, based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

[0066] The powder cosmetics of the present invention can be in the form of any product within the scope of powder cosmetics, specifically, foundation, eye shadow, blush, body powder, perfume powder, baby powder, pressed powder, deodorant powder, and the like.

[0067] Example

[0068] The present invention will be further described in detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited in any way by these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the amount of each component is expressed as % by mass relative to the system in which the component is incorporated.

[0069] <Evaluation of Hydrophilic Gel>

[0070] As shown in the table below, hydrophilic gels containing different combinations of gelling agents and polyols were prepared and their gelling abilities were evaluated.

[0071] The gelling ability of each hydrophilic gel (number of samples N=5) was evaluated by functional evaluation according to the following criteria.

[0072] A: Very good (forms a gel structure with elasticity)

[0073] B: Good (forms a soft gel structure)

[0074] C: Normal (forms a gel structure that is easily disintegrated)

[0075] D: Poor (not gelled)

[0076] [Table 1]

[0077]

[0078] As shown in Table 1, when a hydrophilic gel was prepared by combining any one of the following gelling agents: PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradecyl alcohol polyether-20 ether, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and laponite, with any one of the following polyols: glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, the formation of a gel structure was confirmed (Samples 1 to 7). In particular, the use of any one of the following gelling agents: PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradecyl alcohol polyether-20 ether, gellan gum, and tamarind gum, resulted in a gel with a very good feel.

[0079] On the other hand, when carbomer or xanthan gum, which are widely used as gelling agents for cosmetics, were added instead of the above-mentioned gelling agents, a sufficient gel structure was not obtained (Samples 8 and 9).

[0080] <Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6>

[0081] The powder cosmetics of Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 described in Tables 2 and 3 below were prepared by a dry process. Specifically, (13) to (25) were first dissolved and mixed at 80°C, and then returned to room temperature to prepare a hydrophilic gel. This hydrophilic gel was then mixed with the remaining components (1) to (12) and (26) to (27) using a Henschel mixer, pulverized using a grinder, and then filled into a resin center container. Dry press molding was performed using a known method to obtain a powder cosmetic.

[0082] The obtained powdered cosmetics were evaluated for softness and ease of removal using the following methods. The evaluation results are shown in Tables 2 and 3.

[0083] <Softness and ease of removal>

[0084] Twenty professional cosmetics evaluation panelists used the powder cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples and evaluated their sensory properties (softness, ease of removal) on a five-point scale based on the following criteria. Each cosmetic product was scored, and the average score of all panelists was determined using the following four-point evaluation criteria.

[0085] (Evaluation Criteria)

[0086] Evaluation results: Rating

[0087] Very good: 5 points

[0088] Good: 4 points

[0089] Normal: 3 points

[0090] Slightly poor: 2 points

[0091] Bad: 1 point

[0092] (Judgment Criteria)

[0093] Judgment: Average score

[0094] A: 4.5 or above

[0095] B: 3.5 or higher and less than 4.5

[0096] C: 1.5 or higher and less than 3.5

[0097] D: less than 1.5

[0098] [Table 2]

[0099]

[0100] [Table 3]

[0101]

[0102] As shown in Tables 2 and 3, powder cosmetics obtained by blending a hydrophilic gel containing any one of the gelling agents selected from PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradecyl alcohol polyether-20 ether, gellan gum, tamarind gum, agar, and laponite, and any one of the polyols selected from glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, exhibited soft and moist usability during application, good removal, and excellent stability (Examples 1 to 7).

[0103] In particular, by using any one of PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradecyl alcohol polyether-20 ether, gellan gum, and tamarind gum as a gelling agent, extremely excellent usability can be achieved.

[0104] On the other hand, when carbomer or xanthan gum was added instead of the gelling agent, when no gelling agent was added, or when polyethylene glycol 400 or PEG / PPG-14 / 7 dimethyl ether was added instead of the polyol, stability and usability were insufficient (Comparative Examples 1 to 5). Furthermore, when the water content was increased to 10% by mass, caking occurred on the surface of the cosmetic, significantly impairing the removal of the cosmetic and also impairing the cosmetic's appearance (Comparative Example 6).

Claims

1. A powder cosmetic comprising: (A) a gelling agent selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyether urethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, and agar; and (B) a polyol selected from the group consisting of glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, The amount of water is less than 10% by mass. The mass ratio of (A) gelling agent to (B) polyol is (A): (B) = 1:2 to 1:

15. The hydrophobically modified polyether urethane is PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether.

2. The powder cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein: The amount of the gelling agent (A) to be added is 0.1 to 5.0% by mass based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

3. A powder cosmetic comprising a hydrophilic gel, The hydrophilic gel comprises: (A) a gelling agent selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified polyether urethane, gellan gum, tamarind gum, and agar; and (B) a polyol selected from the group consisting of glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, The amount of water is less than 10% by mass. The mass ratio of (A) gelling agent to (B) polyol is (A): (B) = 1:2 to 1:

15. The hydrophobically modified polyether urethane is PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether.

4. The powder cosmetic according to claim 3, wherein: The amount of the gelling agent (A) to be added is 0.1 to 5.0% by mass based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

5. The powder cosmetic according to claim 3 or 4, wherein: The amount of the hydrophilic gel added is 1 to 20% by mass based on the total amount of the powder cosmetic.

6. The powder cosmetic according to claim 3 or 4, wherein: The hydrophilic gel further comprises a polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane.

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