Small-flowered jasmine wax and / or small-flowered jasmine absolute oil composition and application thereof

Abstract

The present invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular to a composition and application of small-flowered jasmine wax and / or small-flowered jasmine absolute oil. The jasmine wax and jasmine absolute oil used in the present invention are both derived from products obtained by separation of small-flowered jasmine extract, and make full use of the plant resource product of small-flowered jasmine, which is abundant in my country, for in-depth development and research. Through experimental design, the content of the small-flowered jasmine absolute oil component with the best efficacy is selected, and the combination with the small-flowered jasmine wax is combined, and other auxiliary plant ingredients are added, and the human body efficacy test verifies that the small-flowered jasmine absolute oil has the effects of moisturizing, firming, repairing, anti-wrinkle and the like.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition and application of a jasmine sambac wax and / or jasmine sambac absolute oil. Background Art

[0002] Jasmine, also known as "Arabian jasmine" or "Chinese jasmine", contains about 170 chemically active ingredients, with a strong fragrance and a refreshing and elegant aroma. At present, the ways to use jasmine are: 1. Ornamental value: indoor cultivation, made into bouquets and wreaths for decoration; 2. Edible value: dried jasmine flowers are incorporated into food and drinks; 3. Economic value: extracting jasmine essential oil, jasmine extract or absolute oil as a fragrance base raw material, used in daily chemical and food industries.

[0003] According to Kline Consulting, as the production capacity of APT (American Petroleum Institute) Class I base oil shrinks, the supply of petroleum wax continues to decline. In the face of the growing wax demand market, plant wax, as a sustainable development resource, has obvious advantages in replacing petroleum wax, synthetic wax, and animal wax. Common plant waxes include: carnauba wax, candelilla wax, jojoba esters, olive esters, or castor wax. Jasmine wax, as a plant wax, needs further development and utilization.

[0004] Small-flowered jasmine is rich in resources in my country. It is cultivated on a large scale in Guangxi, Fujian, Yunnan and other provinces (autonomous regions) and is one of the main economic crops. It is mainly concentrated in tea drinking and crude essential oil extraction. There is little research on the development and application of its by-products, and its medicinal value and economic added value are not fully utilized. There is little in-depth research on the application of jasmine wax in China. The applicability of jasmine wax, a by-product of the extraction of absolute oil from the crop small-flowered jasmine, is not high. It is generally discarded or used to make scented candles. It is used in small amounts in cosmetics lipsticks and lipsticks, and there are very few commercially available products. Jasmine absolute oil has traditionally been used as a fragrance raw material and can also be used for aromatherapy. The main component research focuses on the extraction process of volatile oils, flavonoids and polysaccharides. There is little research on the application of jasmine extract products, and there is a lack of high-end products.

[0005] In view of this, the present invention is proposed. Summary of the invention

[0006] The purpose of the present invention is to use small-flowered jasmine wax and / or small-flowered jasmine absolute as core functional components in skin care products or cosmetics, hoping to achieve the effects of delaying and preventing skin aging and slowing down the formation of wrinkles.

[0007] Another object of the present invention is to use the small-flowered jasmine wax and small-flowered jasmine absolute in combination with other components to prepare skin care products or cosmetics with the above functions.

[0008] Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the above-mentioned skin care product or cosmetic.

[0009] In order to solve the above technical problems and achieve the above objectives, the present invention provides the following technical solutions:

[0010] In a first aspect, the present invention provides the use of small-flowered jasmine wax and / or small-flowered jasmine absolute in any one of (a) to (d):

[0011] (a) Delay skin aging;

[0012] (b) prevent skin aging;

[0013] (c) Slow down the formation of wrinkles;

[0014] (d) preparing a skin care product or cosmetic having at least one of the functions of (a) to (c).

[0015] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a composition having at least one of the functions (a) to (c) described in the aforementioned embodiments, wherein the composition comprises small-flowered jasmine wax, small-flowered jasmine absolute oil and meadowfoam seed oil.

[0016] Preferably, the composition further comprises at least one of sweet almond oil, pterostilbene or silymarin.

[0017] In an optional embodiment, the small-flowered jasmine wax contains hydrocarbons, fatty acid lipids, fatty alcohols, free fatty acids and sterols;

[0018] The jasmine absolute contains benzyl acetate, linalool, cis-3-hexenyl benzoate and methyl anthranilate;

[0019] The white meadowfoam seed oil contains eicosenoic acid, docosenoic acid and docosadienoic acid.

[0020] Preferably, the small-flowered jasmine wax contains, by mass ratio, 45% to 54% hydrocarbons, 12% to 18% fatty acid lipids, 6% to 10% fatty alcohols, 6% to 10% free fatty acids and 0.2% to 2% sterols.

[0021] Preferably, the meadowfoam seed oil contains 55% to 65% eicosenoic acid, 10% to 20% docosenoic acid and 15% to 25% docosadienoic acid in terms of mass ratio.

[0022] In an optional embodiment, the sweet almond oil contains palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid.

[0023] Preferably, the sweet almond oil contains 3.0% to 9.0% palmitic acid, 0.1% to 1% palmitoleic acid, 0.5% to 1.5% stearic acid, 70.0% to 75.0% oleic acid and 16.0% to 25.0% linoleic acid in terms of mass ratio.

[0024] In an optional embodiment, in the composition, the content of small-flowered jasmine wax is 2% to 10%, the content of small-flowered jasmine absolute oil is 0.01% to 0.2%, and the content of white meadowfoam seed oil is 2% to 10%, by mass percentage.

[0025] Preferably, the content of small-flowered jasmine wax is 3.5%, the content of small-flowered jasmine absolute oil is 0.1%, and the content of white meadowfoam seed oil is 8%;

[0026] Preferably, the content of sweet almond oil in the composition is 1% to 2%, more preferably 2%;

[0027] Preferably, the content of pterostilbene in the composition is 0.01% to 0.5%, more preferably 0.2%;

[0028] Preferably, the content of silymarin in the composition is 0.01% to 0.5%, more preferably 0.2%.

[0029] In an optional embodiment, the composition comprises two forms (a) or (b):

[0030] (a) The composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments comprises a mixture of all components;

[0031] (b) comprising an oil phase A and an oil phase B which are separately packaged, wherein the oil phase A contains jasmine wax and meadowfoam seed oil; and the oil phase B contains jasmine absolute oil and optionally contains at least one of sweet almond oil, pterostilbene or silymarin.

[0032] In a third aspect, the present invention provides use of the composition described in any one of the aforementioned embodiments in the preparation of skin care products or cosmetics.

[0033] In a fourth aspect, the present invention provides a skin care product or cosmetic, comprising the composition of any one of the aforementioned embodiments and an auxiliary material, wherein the auxiliary material comprises at least one of an aqueous phase solvent, a thickener or an emulsion stabilizer.

[0034] Preferably, the aqueous phase solvent is selected from at least one of water, butanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone or 1,2-hexanediol.

[0035] Preferably, the thickener comprises ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate-VP copolymer.

[0036] Preferably, the emulsion stabilizer includes at least one of an olive oil-derived emulsifier or beheneth-25.

[0037] Preferably, the auxiliary material further comprises at least one of polydimethylsiloxane, behenyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol.

[0038] Preferably, the skin care product comprises the composition of any one of the aforementioned embodiments, and the mass percentage of the skin care product or cosmetics is 4.01% to 22.6%.

[0039] Preferably, the dosage form of the skin care product or cosmetic includes an essence, lotion, cream or wax-based dosage product.

[0040] Preferably, the essence, lotion, cream comprises an O / W dosage form or a W / O dosage form.

[0041] In a fifth aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing the skin care products or cosmetics described in the aforementioned embodiments, the preparation method comprising, sequentially dispersing (a) a thickener and / or an emulsifier stabilizer, (b) small-flowered jasmine wax and white meadowfoam seed oil, and (c) small-flowered jasmine absolute oil in an aqueous phase or an oil phase solvent, after dispersing (b) small-flowered jasmine wax and white meadowfoam seed oil in the aqueous phase or the oil phase solvent, lowering the temperature and then dispersing (c) small-flowered jasmine absolute oil in the aqueous phase or the oil phase solvent.

[0042] Preferably, at least one of sweet almond oil, pterostilbene or silymarin is dispersed in an aqueous or oil phase solvent together with (c) jasmine absolute oil.

[0043] Preferably, at least one of dimethicone, behenyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol is dispersed in an aqueous or oily solvent together with (b) jasmine parviflora wax and meadowfoam seed oil.

[0044] In an optional embodiment, the temperature at which (b) the small-flowered jasmine wax and white meadowfoam seed oil are dispersed in the aqueous phase or oil phase solvent is 75-85°C; the temperature at which the small-flowered jasmine absolute oil is dispersed in the aqueous phase or oil phase solvent is 45-60°C.

[0045] The jasmine flower wax and jasmine flower absolute oil adopted by the invention are both derived from products obtained by separating jasmine flower extract, and the abundant jasmine flower extract in my country is fully utilized for in-depth development and research. The jasmine flower absolute oil component content with the best efficacy is selected through experimental design, and the jasmine flower absolute oil and the jasmine flower wax are combined, and other auxiliary plant components are added, and the human body efficacy test is performed to verify that the jasmine flower absolute oil has the effects of moisturizing, firming, repairing, anti-wrinkle and the like. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0046] In order to more clearly illustrate the specific implementation methods of the present invention or the technical solutions in the prior art, the drawings required for use in the specific implementation methods or the description of the prior art will be briefly introduced below. Obviously, the drawings described below are some implementation methods of the present invention. For ordinary technicians in this field, other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without paying creative work.

[0047] Figure 1 The present invention is a flow chart of the preparation method of the small-flowered jasmine wax and the small-flowered jasmine absolute;

[0048] Figure 2 The hardness test results of different vegetable oils and small-flowered jasmine wax after being mixed in Example 1 of the present invention;

[0049] Figure 3 Effects of jasmine essence cream provided in different embodiments and comparative examples of the present invention on the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin;

[0050] Figure 4 The effects of jasmine essence cream provided by different embodiments and comparative examples of the present invention on the increase of skin moisture;

[0051] Figure 5 The effects of the jasmine essence cream provided by different embodiments and comparative examples of the present invention on the water loss rate of skin keratin;

[0052] Figure 6 The effects of the jasmine essence cream provided by different embodiments and comparative examples of the present invention on the change of skin moisture loss;

[0053] Figure 7 This is the morphology of the BC group after fluorescence reaction in Example 5;

[0054] Figure 8 This is the morphology of the NC group after fluorescence reaction in Example 5;

[0055] Fig. 9 This is the morphology of the PC (VC+VE) group after fluorescence reaction in Example 5;

[0056] Fig.10 This is a morphological image of the essence cream group provided by the present invention in Example 5 after fluorescence reaction;

[0057] Fig.11 This is a summary diagram of the IV collagen content results corresponding to different essence cream groups in Example 5;

[0058] Fig.12 The comparison results of the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin after using the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0059] Fig.13The comparison results of the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values ​​of the skin after using the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0060] Fig.14 The change rate of moisture content in the stratum corneum of the skin after using the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0061] Fig.15 The change rate of the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) value of the skin after using the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0062] Fig.16 The results of skin elasticity changes after using the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0063] Fig.17 The skin elasticity change rate after using the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0064] Fig.18 The skin firmness F4 value test results after using the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0065] Fig.19 The change rate of the skin firming F4 value after using the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0066] Fig. 20 The skin glossiness test results after using the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0067] Fig.21 The skin glossiness change rate after using the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0068] Fig. 22 The results of skin wrinkle depth detection after using the essence cream provided by the present invention for different number of days;

[0069] Fig.23 The results of detecting the number of skin wrinkles after using the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0070] Fig.24 The results of skin wrinkle area detection after using the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0071] Fig.25 The results of detecting the length of skin wrinkles after using the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0072] Fig.26 The PRIMOS-lite imaging results after subject A used the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0073] Fig. 27 The PRIMOS-lite imaging results after subject B used the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days;

[0074] Fig.28 These are the PRIMOS-lite imaging results after subject C used the essence cream provided by the present invention for different days. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0075] In order to make the purpose, technical solutions and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention clearer, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below in conjunction with the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of the embodiments.

[0076] Explanation of terms

[0077] The "small flower jasmine wax" and "small flower jasmine absolute oil" described in the present invention are prepared according to Figure 1 The preparation process shown in the figure shows that the main components of the small flower jasmine wax include: hydrocarbons, fatty acid lipids, fatty alcohols, free fatty acids and sterols. There is a document that uses combined gas chromatography and mass spectrometry to identify the components of jasmine wax and concludes that the hydrocarbon part is mainly composed of saturated chains, mainly C29, C31 and C27. The aldehyde part is characterized by a straight chain with an even number of carbon atoms, the number of carbon atoms is between C10 and C28, and the ketone part contains a longer carbon chain structure, namely C36, in which C=O is found at the C8 and C11 positions. The primary fatty alcohols in the small flower jasmine wax appear as short chains and in liquid form, while the free fatty acids appear as long chains and exist in the solid phase. The small flower jasmine wax used in the present invention contains 45% to 54% hydrocarbons, 12% to 18% fatty acid lipids, 6% to 10% fatty alcohols, 6% to 10% free fatty acids and 0.2% to 2% sterols according to the mass ratio.

[0078] The jasmine absolute was purchased from Ji'an Zhongxiang Natural Plant Co., Ltd., and contains active ingredients such as benzyl acetate, linalool, cis-3-hexenyl benzoate, and methyl anthranilate.

[0079] The "lily of the valley seed oil" of the present invention is extracted from the white meadowfoam. The white meadowfoam is a winter annual herb, and more than 95% of its seed oil components contain long-chain fatty acids with more than 20 carbon atoms, such as eicosenoic acid, docosenoic acid and docosadienoic acid, most of which have unsaturated double bonds at the Δ5 and Δ13 positions. This structure does not produce conjugated double bonds, and it has oxidation stability itself, which can extend the shelf life of formulas containing easily oxidized vegetable oils and unstable substances. At the same time, it can also stretch the skin texture, deeply repair skin damage, and improve the overall contour of the skin.

[0080] The sweet almond oil of the present invention is extracted from sweet almonds, which are seeds of apricots of the Rosaceae deciduous tree plant and are widely planted in Xinjiang, my country. The main components of sweet almond oil are oleic acid (70.0% to 82.0%) and linoleic acid (16.0% to 25.0%), which are important components of fatty acids (FA), and can supplement essential fatty acids (FA) such as oleic acid and linoleic acid in the extracellular stratum corneum of the skin, and further play an exogenous role in protecting the skin barrier.

[0081] The "Pterostilbene" described in the present invention is extracted from the bark of the Pterostilbene chinensis tree, and its molecular structure is as follows:

[0082]

[0083] Its molecular structure contains hydroxyl and carbonyl structures, which are similar to the structures of most UV absorbers. It can react with UV light and reduce the impact of UV light on the skin. The SPF value (sunprotection factors) is measured using a UV spectrophotometer. The higher the SPF value, the better the skin protection effect. After testing, the SPF of pterostilbene is 21.73±0.06.

[0084] The "silymarin" described in the present invention is a natural flavonolignan compound, which is a natural active substance extracted from the dried fruit of the chrysanthemum plant milk thistle. During skin aging, the junction between the epidermis and the dermis will become significantly thinner. Under the influence of ultraviolet rays, the DNA of the basal cells will change, and the cells will show different degrees of apoptosis. Cysteine-aspartate protein hydrolase-3 (Caspase-3) usually exists in the form of an inactive zymogen in cells as a 35kDa molecular chain. It will be cleaved into 17kDa molecules under ultraviolet light, resulting in zymogen activation, and is an early marker of cell apoptosis. It has been reported in the literature that the cleavage products of Caspase-3 were measured by protein blotting under UVB irradiation and in comparison with silymarin of different concentrations, and it was verified that it has a protective effect on cells induced by ultraviolet rays, thereby verifying that it has the effect of anti-photoaging.

[0085] Some embodiments of the present invention are described in detail below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. In the absence of conflict, the following embodiments and features in the embodiments can be combined with each other.

[0086] Example 1

[0087] In this embodiment, the melting point of the small flower jasmine wax used is about 65°C. It is a yellow solid wax with a characteristic jasmine smell (purchased from Guilin Top Spice Co., Ltd.). Squalane, sweet almond oil (Norstar Lipids, Almond oil CB), meadowfoam seed oil (NATURAL PLANT PRODUCTS, Meadowfoam Seed Oil), GTCC (caprylic / capric triglyceride), polydimethylsiloxane, sunflower seed oil, and jojoba seed oil, which are commonly used liquid oils in cosmetics, are respectively selected to disperse and dissolve the small flower jasmine wax. The physical properties of the small flower jasmine wax mixed with different liquid oils are different, showing different hardnesses. When the hardness increases, the brittleness also increases, and the corresponding flexibility and spreadability are relatively low, and the compatibility of the corresponding wax is worse, which is not conducive to the use of the product.

[0088] Take 6 parts of the above different liquid oils respectively and dissolve 2 parts of the small flower jasmine wax, that is, the mass fraction of the small flower jasmine wax accounts for 25%. After stirring and dissolving at 70°C and cooling to room temperature, observe the dissolution and dispersion uniformity and hardness of the small flower jasmine wax. Through observation and comparison, it is known that the hardness of the mixture of different plant liquid oils dissolving the small flower jasmine wax is weaker than that of GTCC and polydimethylsiloxane. Finally, use a Shore A durometer to measure the hardness value.

[0089] Under the action of the test force, it is vertically pressed into the surface of the specimen. When the surface of the pressing foot is completely attached to the surface of the specimen, the end face of the pressing needle tip has a certain protruding length L relative to the plane of the pressing foot. The magnitude of the Shore hardness is characterized by the value of L. The larger the L value, the lower the Shore hardness, and vice versa. The calculation formula is: HA = 100 - L / 0.025. The hardness values after being miscible with the small flower jasmine wax are: meadowfoam seed oil < jojoba seed oil < sunflower seed oil < almond oil < squalane < GTCC < polydimethylsiloxane, as Figure 2 shown.

[0090] The above results show that after the plant liquid oil is miscible with the small flower jasmine wax, its hardness can be reduced to a certain extent, and the meadowfoam seed oil is the best.

[0091] Example 2

[0092] This embodiment provides a group of paste compositions, and the specific components are as follows:

[0093] Components Mass fraction % water TO 100 Butanediol 5 Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer 0.4 Dimethicone 2 Behenyl alcohol 3 Beheneth-25 2.4 p-Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 1,2-Hexanediol 1 Sweet almond oil 2 Lignum Meadowfoam Seed Oil 5～10 Jasmine wax flower 2～10

[0094] An orthogonal test is conducted with the oil paste forming stability and spreadability (usability comfort) tests. The test factors are respectively A the content ratios of the small flower jasmine wax and meadowfoam seed oil in the composition, B the filling temperature (°C), and C the standing time (h) after filling. The experimental factor level table is as follows:

[0095]

[0096]

[0097] Orthogonal test results: According to the orthogonal test design table, the high / low temperature stability and spreading and spreading properties (comfort of use) were scored according to the above items as a judgment (full score is 5 points), and the results are as follows:

[0098]

[0099] According to the above table, it can be analyzed that as the amount of small-flowered jasmine wax increases, the hardness of the paste will be affected.

[0100] The analysis table of the completeness of the paste is as follows:

[0101]

[0102]

[0103] The spreadability analysis table is as follows:

[0104]

[0105]

[0106] As can be seen from the above table, when the feeding amounts of jasmine wax and meadowfoam seed oil are 5% and 8% (mass fraction) respectively, the filling temperature is 48°C, and the standing time after filling is 6 hours, the completeness of the paste is best.

[0107] The mass fraction of small-flowered jasmine wax plays an important role in the spreadability. When the mass fractions of small-flowered jasmine wax and white pondweed seed oil are 2% and 5% (mass fraction) respectively, the spreadability is the best after standing for 6 hours after filling. Comprehensive evaluation shows that the mass fraction of small-flowered jasmine wax has a decisive influence on the formation of the paste. Taking a mass fraction of 2% to 5% of small-flowered jasmine wax helps to form a paste with good spreadability and a certain hardness. As the filling temperature increases, the paste tends to be smoother after standing and forming.

[0108] Example 3

[0109] In this example, jasmine absolute was dispersed in water using a solubilisant (LRI) to prepare jasmine absolute essence, which was tested on more than 15 people using an instrument to verify its efficacy on human skin.

[0110] Experimental reagents: Jasmine absolute oil (origin: Guangxi Ji'an Zhongxiang Natural Plant Co., Ltd. provides Jasmine absolute oil, INCI: Jasmine (JASMINUM SAMBAC) flower oil)

[0111] Solubilisant LRI (supplied by Senxin)

[0112] AVC (Thickener, INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer)

[0113] Phenoxyethanol (preservative)

[0114] Jasmine absolute oil group 1 (%) Jasmine sambac absolute oil group 2 (%) Jasmine absolute oil 0.1 0.15 Solubilisant LRI (supplied by Senxin) 0.4 0.6 AVC 0.4 0.4 Phenoxyethanol 0.25 0.25 Deionized water to100 to100

[0115] The jasmine absolute oil was solubilized and dispersed in deionized water with Solubilisant LRI (solubilization ratio 1:4), stabilized and thickened with 0.4% AVC to form an essence, and 0.2% phenoxyethanol was added to control microorganisms to prepare jasmine absolute essences with mass fractions of 0.1% and 0.15%, respectively. The skin elasticity and firmness were tested on the 7th, 14th, and 28th days of trial use. 0.1% jasmine absolute oil can improve skin firmness, and 0.15% jasmine absolute oil can improve skin firmness and elasticity. The results are as follows:

[0116] The skin firmness data of 0.1% jasmine absolute is as follows:

[0117]

[0118] Note: The asymptotic significance (two-sided) value of the normality test is >0.05 (Shapiro-Wilk), and the data follows a normal distribution.

[0119] Further analysis of the data yielded the following results:

[0120]

[0121] The comparison between the product area and the control area showed that P<0.05, indicating a significant difference.

[0122] After using 0.1% jasmine absolute for 7 and 28 days, the skin firmness of the test area was significantly improved compared with the initial value, with a significant difference (p<0.05).

[0123] The skin firmness and elasticity data of 0.15% jasmine absolute are as follows:

[0124]

[0125] Note: The asymptotic significance (two-sided) value of the normality test is >0.05 (Shapiro-Wilk), and the data follows a normal distribution.

[0126] Further analysis of the data yielded the following results:

[0127]

[0128] The comparison between the product area and the control area showed P<0.05, indicating a significant difference.

[0129] After using 0.15% Jasmine Clean for 14 and 28 days, the skin firmness and elasticity of the test area were significantly improved compared with the initial values. After 14 days of use, the skin firmness increased by 15.07% and the elasticity increased by 10.00%. After 28 days of use, the skin firmness increased by 39.27% ​​(p<0.05).

[0130] In summary, through the screening of the dosage of small-flowered jasmine wax and small-flowered jasmine absolute oil in Example 2 and Example 3, when the matrix is ​​consistent, 3% to 5% (mass fraction) of small-flowered jasmine wax and 0.1% to 0.15% of small-flowered jasmine absolute oil are selected to make an ointment with a larger oil content for comparison and amplification experiments, and a cream is made after being dispersed and dissolved with white meadowfoam seed oil.

[0131] Examples 4 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 respectively provide a group of compositions and preparation methods for preparing jasmine essence cream, and the specific compositions are shown in the following table:

[0132]

[0133]

[0134] The preparation method is as follows:

[0135] According to the table above, weigh the following raw materials accurately:

[0136] Aqueous phase A: water, butylene glycol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol.

[0137] Thickening and stabilizing phase B: ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, olive oil derived emulsifier, beheneth-25.

[0138] Oil phase high temperature phase C: Jasmine Sambac wax, Limnanthes Alba seed oil, dimethicone, behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol.

[0139] Oil phase low temperature dispersed phase D: Jasmine absolute oil, sweet almond oil, pterostilbene, silymarin.

[0140] 1) Add the aqueous phase raw materials A, water, butanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, etc. to the main reaction pot in sequence and disperse evenly, start stirring at 10-40HZ, add the thickening stabilizing phase B, start heating, heat to 75-80℃ to dissolve completely, continue stirring, and keep warm for 5-10 minutes;

[0141] 2) Add the oil phase high temperature phase C jasmine wax, white meadowfoam seed oil, behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, etc. into the oil dispersion pot, turn on the heating, heat to 75-80℃ and dissolve completely, then pump into the main reaction pot

[0142] 3) Start homogenization, homogenize and stir at 20-40HZ for 5-10min, then switch to stirring at 10-40HZ and start cooling simultaneously;

[0143] 4) Cool down to 60-50°C, evenly disperse the oil phase low temperature dispersed phase D small flower jasmine absolute oil, sweet almond oil, pterostilbene, silymarin, etc., and slowly add them into the main pot, homogenize and stir at 20-40HZ for 3-8min, and continue stirring for 10-40HZ until evenly stirred;

[0144] 5) Cool down to 50-48°C, stir at 10-30HZ for 5 min; discharge.

[0145] 6) Keep the temperature at 45℃-50℃ for filling. After filling, leave it at room temperature for 6 hours to cool down and stabilize the shape.

[0146] The effects of the above-mentioned embodiments and comparative examples were compared through a skin arm film formation test. The method adopted was that more than 15 people were subjected to tape stripping to damage the skin barrier. The subjects used the product once, and with the help of instrumental testing methods, it was verified that the product had the effect of timely hydration and improving transepidermal water loss before and after use.

[0147] The sample numbers and usage instructions are as follows:

[0148]

[0149]

[0150] The test method is as follows:

[0151] 1) Test environment: The test environment temperature is 22±1℃, the humidity is 50±5%, and real-time dynamic detection is performed;

[0152] 2) Test volunteers: aged between 16 and 55 years old (except pregnant or lactating women); no serious systemic diseases, immunodeficiency or autoimmune diseases; no history of severe allergies to skin care cosmetics; no use of hormone drugs and immunosuppressants in the past month; no participation in other clinical trials; use of test drugs in accordance with regulations and complete information; all volunteers should fill out an informed consent form before testing.

[0153] 3) Test steps: Preparation before the test: Do not use any products (cosmetics or topical drugs) on the test area 2 to 3 days before. Wipe the inner forearms of both hands with dry tissue paper, mark the test area 2cm×2cm, with at least 1cm between each area, and rest in the test environment for 15 to 20 minutes, set up blank control and product application areas, and randomly distribute the areas.

[0154] 4) Test process: After the subject sits quietly in a constant temperature and humidity room for 30 minutes, the test area is tested with instruments such as CM825 and TM300. Each area is measured twice in parallel, and the test results are used as the initial value. The test area is peeled off 20 times with tape, and data is collected from the test area with instruments such as CM825 and TM300 immediately after peeling. After the test is completed, the product application area of ​​the subject is applied according to the sample usage method, and data is collected from the arm with instruments such as CM825 and TM300 immediately 30 minutes after use, 4 hours after use, and 6 hours after use. The blank group does not apply the product.

[0155] Test items include:

[0156] 1) Water content of the stratum corneum

[0157] The subjects were tested 5 times before use, immediately after peeling injury, immediately 30 minutes after use, 4 hours after use, and 6 hours after use. Comemeter CM825 was used to test twice, and the values ​​were recorded. The average value was finally analyzed and the results were as follows: Figure 3 and Figure 4 shown.

[0158] Parameter explanation: The higher the test value, the higher the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin. Result judgment: If the moisture content of the stratum corneum in the test area increases significantly compared with the initial value after the product is used, it means that the test sample has the effect of improving the moisture content of the skin.

[0159] The test results are as follows:

[0160]

[0161]

[0162] As above Figure 3 , 4 : Tape stripping has no significant effect on the moisture content of the skin. After the comparative example and the example are applied, the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin increases rapidly within 30 minutes, and the overall moisture content of the stratum corneum shows an upward trend within 8 hours. The long-term water storage capacity of the skin of Example 4 is significantly superior to that of Comparative Examples 1, 2, 3 and Examples 5 and 6.

[0163] 2) Transepidermal water loss

[0164] The subjects were tested 5 times before use, immediately after peeling injury, immediately after use, 4 hours after use, and 6 hours after use. The TeaxmeterTM300 was used for 2 tests, and the values ​​were recorded. The average value was finally analyzed and the results were as follows: Figure 5 and Figure 6 shown.

[0165] Parameter explanation: The higher the test value, the higher the transepidermal water loss of the skin and the worse the skin barrier function. The lower the test value, the lower the transepidermal water loss of the skin and the better the skin barrier function.

[0166] Result determination: If after using the product, the transepidermal water loss in the test area is significantly reduced compared with the initial value, it means that the test sample has the effect of promptly improving the skin barrier function.

[0167] The test results are as follows:

[0168]

[0169]

[0170] pass Figure 5 , Figure 6 It can be seen that tape stripping has a significant effect on the water loss of the stratum corneum. When the comparative example and the example are applied to the stratum corneum of the skin, the water loss of the stratum corneum can be reduced to a certain extent. Among them, the example has a significant effect on improving the moisture before and after the stratum corneum stripping, especially Example 4 has a significant effect on improving the water loss of the stratum corneum.

[0171] Example 7

[0172] This example uses an in vitro reconstructed 3D full-thickness skin model as a research object, and uses traditional ascorbic acid (VC) and tocopherol (VE) as classic functional ingredients for repairing skin aging as positive controls. By comparing and measuring the content of type IV collagen, it is verified that the essence provided in Example 4 helps to increase the expression of collagen IV in the skin, thereby having a repairing effect on the DEJ layer, and helps to prevent skin aging from the endogenous side of the skin.

[0173] Test items include:

[0174] 1) 3D skin model - type IV collagen

[0175] The model used in this example is a full-thickness skin model (T-Skin @ ), batch number: 22-ChSKIN-05 was provided and tested by a third-party company (Shanghai Weipu Testing Technology Group Co., Ltd.).

[0176]

[0177] The results of IV collagen immunofluorescence showed that the fluorescence reaction of the skin model in the BC group (blank control) and the NC group (negative control) was significantly reduced, indicating that the stimulation conditions were effective. Compared with the NC group, the fluorescence reaction of the PC (VC+VE) positive control group increased, indicating that VC and VE were effective as positive controls for the composition in this experiment. At a 100% administration concentration of the composition, its fluorescence reaction increased significantly, indicating that the composition can promote the production of type IV collagen in skin cells, which helps to defend against skin aging endogenously.

[0178] The morphology of the BC group after fluorescence reaction, the morphology of the NC group after fluorescence reaction, the morphology of the PC (VC + VE) group after fluorescence reaction, and the morphology of the essence cream group provided by the present invention after fluorescence reaction are shown in Figures 1 and 2, respectively. Figures 7-10 As shown, it can be seen that the fluorescence intensity of the present invention is higher than that of the BC group, the NC group and the PC (VC+VE) group, indicating that the present invention significantly promotes the IV collagen. Fig.11 As shown, by analyzing the fluorescence reaction intensity, the following results were obtained: based on the 3D skin model, compared with the NC group, at 100% administration concentration, the amount of collagen in the Example Group IV was significantly increased (P<0.050).

[0179] It can be seen from the above experiments that the embodiments of the present invention help promote the production of collagen IV, support and connect tissue structures, regulate the physiological activities of tissues and cells, so as to maintain the firmness and elasticity of the skin appearance, and have a significant effect on endogenous anti-aging.

[0180] 2) Repairing, firming and anti-wrinkle effects

[0181] 30 Asian adult women aged 41 to 60 years old used the essence cream provided in Example 4 continuously for 28 days. The water seal and content of the stratum corneum, the transepidermal water loss TEWL value, the skin elasticity R2 value, the skin firmness F4 value were measured with an instrument probe. Facial images were collected to analyze the skin roughness, skin smoothness, skin glossiness and skin wrinkles of crow's feet at the corners of the eyes. After efficacy and safety evaluation by dermatologists, it was confirmed that the essence cream provided in Example 4 had significant positive effects in the dimensions of repair, firming, anti-wrinkle, glossiness, safety, etc., and had corresponding efficacy.

[0182] ①Repair effect

[0183] Water and epidermal water loss (TEWL) values ​​are used to characterize the skin's repair ability.

[0184] Courage+Khazaka Skin Moisture Tester CM825 is used to detect the moisture content of the skin stratum corneum. The larger the test value, the higher the moisture content of the skin stratum corneum.

[0185] Courage+Khazaka Skin Moisture Tester TM300 is used to detect the TEWL value of the skin. The smaller the measured value, the less the TEWL per unit time and per unit cross-section, and the more complete the skin barrier.

[0186] The results are as follows Figures 12 to 15 As shown in the above figure, compared with before use, the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin increased significantly and the transepidermal water loss TEWL value decreased significantly after 14 and 28 days in the embodiment, which has a repairing effect.

[0187] ②Skin elasticity

[0188] Courage+Khazaka Skin Elasticity Tester Dual MPA580 for testing skin elasticity 2 The measured value increases, indicating that the skin elasticity is improved. Fig.16 and 17 As shown in the above figure, it is illustrated that the skin elasticity of the embodiment is significantly improved after 14 days and 28 days compared with before use.

[0189] ③Skin firmness

[0190] Courage+Khazaka Skin Elasticity Tester The dual MPA580 is used to detect the skin firmness F4 value. The smaller the measured value, the better the skin firmness. The results are as follows Fig.18 and Fig.19 As shown in the figure above, compared with before use, the skin firmness F4 of the cheek area decreased at 14 days and 28 days, and the skin firmness was significantly improved.

[0191] ④Skin glossiness

[0192] Courage+Khazaka Skin Gloss Test Probe GL200 is used to test the glossiness of the skin. The larger the measured value, the higher the glossiness. The test sample has a specific effect on brightening the skin. The results are as follows: Fig. 20 and Fig.21 As shown, it is proved that: compared with the essence cream before use, the skin glossiness of the cheek area is significantly improved after 14 days and 28 days, indicating that the essence cream provided in the embodiment has a significant effect of brightening the skin.

[0193] ⑤ Skin wrinkle depth and wrinkle content

[0194] Canfieldsci's skin rapid optical imaging system PRIMOS-lite is used to detect skin wrinkle depth, wrinkle number, wrinkle area and wrinkle length. The smaller the measured value, the smaller the wrinkle depth, the smaller the wrinkle number and area, and the test sample has anti-wrinkle effect. The results are as follows Figure 22 to Figure 25 As shown, PRIMOS-lite imaging of some subjects is as follows: Figure 26 to Figure 28 Proof: Compared with before use, the essence cream provided in the embodiment has significantly reduced the depth, number, area, length and other dimensions of the crow's feet wrinkles on the cheeks after 14 days and 28 days, indicating that the essence cream provided in the embodiment has obvious anti-wrinkle effect.

[0195] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention, rather than to limit it. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the aforementioned embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that they can still modify the technical solutions described in the aforementioned embodiments, or replace some or all of the technical features therein with equivalents. However, these modifications or replacements do not cause the essence of the corresponding technical solutions to deviate from the scope of the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention.

Claims

1. A functional composition, wherein the functional composition has at least one of the functions (a) to (c): (a) Delay skin aging; (b) prevent skin aging; (c) slowing down the formation of wrinkles; It is characterized in that The composition comprises small-flowered jasmine wax, small-flowered jasmine absolute oil and meadowfoam seed oil; According to mass percentage, the content of small-flowered jasmine wax in the composition is 3.5%, the content of small-flowered jasmine absolute oil is 0.1%, and the content of white meadowfoam seed oil is 8%.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The composition further comprises at least one of sweet almond oil, pterostilbene or silymarin.

3. The composition according to claim 2, characterized in that The small-flowered jasmine wax contains hydrocarbons, fatty acid lipids, fatty alcohols, free fatty acids and sterols; The jasmine absolute contains benzyl acetate, linalool, cis-3-hexenyl benzoate and methyl anthranilate; The white meadowfoam seed oil contains eicosenoic acid, docosenoic acid and docosadienoic acid.

4. The composition according to claim 3, characterized in that The small-flowered jasmine wax contains 45% to 54% hydrocarbons, 12% to 18% fatty acid lipids, 6% to 10% fatty alcohols, 6% to 10% free fatty acids and 0.2% to 2% sterols in terms of mass ratio.

5. The composition according to claim 3, characterized in that The meadowfoam seed oil contains 55% to 65% of eicosenoic acid, 10% to 20% of docosenoic acid and 15% to 25% of docosadienoic acid in terms of mass ratio.

6. The composition according to claim 2, characterized in that The sweet almond oil contains palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid; The sweet almond oil contains 3.0% to 9.0% palmitic acid, 0.1% to 1% palmitoleic acid, 0.5% to 1.5% stearic acid, 70.0% to 75.0% oleic acid and 16.0% to 25.0% linoleic acid according to mass ratio.

7. The composition according to claim 2, characterized in that The content of sweet almond oil in the composition is 1%-2%, the content of pterostilbene is 0.01%-0.5%, and the content of silymarin is 0.01%-0.5%.

8. The composition according to claim 7, characterized in that The content of sweet almond oil in the composition is 2%, the content of pterostilbene is 0.2% and the content of silymarin is 0.2%.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that The composition comprises two forms: (a) or (b): (a) The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 comprises a mixture of all the components; (b) comprising oil phase A and oil phase B which are separately packaged; The oil phase A contains jasmine wax and meadowfoam seed oil; The oil phase B contains jasmine absolute oil.

10. The composition according to claim 9, characterized in that The oil phase B also includes at least one of sweet almond oil, pterostilbene or silymarin.

11. Use of any one of the compositions of claims 1 to 10 in the preparation of cosmetics.

12. A cosmetic, characterized in that The cosmetic comprises the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 and an auxiliary material, wherein the auxiliary material comprises at least one of an aqueous phase solvent, a thickener or an emulsion stabilizer; The aqueous phase solvent is selected from at least one of water, butanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone or 1,2-hexanediol; The thickener includes ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate-VP copolymer; The emulsion stabilizer includes at least one of an olive oil-derived emulsifier or beheneth-25; The auxiliary material also includes at least one of polydimethylsiloxane, behenyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol.

13. The cosmetic according to claim 12, characterized in that: The composition of any one of claims 1 to 10 accounts for 4.01% to 22.6% of the mass of the cosmetic.

14. The cosmetic according to claim 12, characterized in that: The dosage form of the cosmetics includes essence, lotion, cream or wax-based dosage form products; The essence, emulsion and cream include O / W dosage form or W / O dosage form.

15. The method for preparing the cosmetic according to any one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that: The preparation method comprises the steps of sequentially dispersing (a) a thickener and / or an emulsifier stabilizer, (b) small-flowered jasmine wax and white meadowfoam seed oil, and (c) small-flowered jasmine absolute oil in an aqueous phase or an oil phase solvent; after the small-flowered jasmine wax and white meadowfoam seed oil are dispersed in the aqueous phase or the oil phase solvent, lowering the temperature and then dispersing the small-flowered jasmine absolute oil in the aqueous phase or the oil phase solvent.

16. The method for preparing cosmetics according to claim 15, characterized in that: At least one of sweet almond oil, pterostilbene or silymarin is dispersed in an aqueous or oily solvent together with (c) jasmine absolute oil; And / or, at least one of dimethicone, behenyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol is dispersed in the water phase or oil phase solvent together with (b) jasmine parviflora wax and meadowfoam seed oil.

17. The preparation method according to claim 15, characterized in that: The temperature at which (b) the jasmine flower wax and meadowfoam seed oil are dispersed in the aqueous phase solvent or the oil phase is 75-85° C.; the temperature at which (c) the jasmine flower absolute oil is dispersed in the aqueous phase or the oil phase solvent is 45-60° C.

Images