Compositions for bleaching and coloring keratin fibers containing direct dyes

Abstract

The present invention relates to a bleaching and coloring composition for keratin fibers, preferably for human keratin fibers, more preferably for human hair, comprising one or more alkalizing agents, one or more bleaching compounds, HC Blue 18 and / or its salts, tetrabromophenol blue and / or its salts.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a bleaching and coloring composition for keratin fibers. In addition, a bleaching and coloring method and a kit are disclosed. Background Art

[0002] Bleaching the keratin fibers is often necessary when a client with dark hair wants to lighten their hair color. It is also necessary when a client prefers a lighter color than their natural hair color. Therefore, the bleaching and coloring process is often combined.

[0003] To achieve intense and long-lasting coloration, the bleaching process is combined with the dyeing process. This combination is a time-consuming two-step process because the oxidation of the hair after bleaching adds additional processing time.

[0004] This disadvantage can be avoided when the bleaching and dyeing processes are carried out simultaneously.One class of dyes are direct dyes, which allow color development without a separate oxidation step.

[0005] The applicant has developed new direct dyes (EP1366752) that complement the availability and color range of existing dyes. The series of dyes developed above include HC Blue 18, HC Red 18 and HC Yellow 16.

[0006] It was found that the addition of the above dyes to bleaching and dyeing compositions (EP2883531, EP2883531) improves the stability of the dyes in the presence of oxidizable solvents.

[0007] EP 1 372 581 discloses another direct dye, tetrabromophenol blue, in bleaching powders for simultaneous bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibres.

[0008] However, especially for dark-haired customers, the bleaching process has an undesirable side effect in that the bleached hair takes on a warm yellow to red hue, which is not appreciated and accepted as a natural blonde color.

[0009] Therefore, despite the attempts of the prior art, there remains a need to develop bleaching and coloring compositions which are considered natural colorings without undesirable color shifts. Summary of the Invention

[0010] Therefore, a first object of the present invention is a bleaching and coloring composition for keratin fibers, preferably for human keratin fibers, more preferably for human hair, comprising:

[0011] a) one or more alkalizing agents;

[0012] b) one or more bleaching compounds;

[0013] c) HC Blue 18 and / or its salts;

[0014] d) Tetrabromophenol blue and / or its salts.

[0015] A second object of the present invention is a two-part bleaching and coloring composition comprising: a first composition as defined above; and a second aqueous composition having a pH in the range of 1 to 6 and comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0016] A third object of the present invention is a method for bleaching and coloring keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising the following steps:

[0017] i) mixing a bleaching and coloring composition as defined above with a second aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide, and having a pH in the range of 1 to 6, to obtain a ready-to-use composition having a pH in the range of 7 to 12;

[0018] ii) applying the ready-to-use composition to the keratin fibers and leaving them to remain there for a period of time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, and optionally heating the keratin fibers to a temperature ranging from 30° C. to 60° C.; and

[0019] iii) rinsing the keratin fibers and optionally drying the keratin fibers.

[0020] A fourth object of the present invention is a kit for bleaching and coloring keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising:

[0021] - a first composition as defined above;

[0022] - a second aqueous composition having a pH in the range of 1 to 6 and comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide;

[0023] - a third composition selected from:

[0024] - an anhydrous composition comprising one or more oxidizable solvents, preferably selected from 2-phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and / or mixtures thereof; or

[0025] A composition comprising one or more alkoxylated organopolysiloxanes, one or more compounds selected from alkoxylated glycerides and / or optionally alkoxylated alkyl glyceryl ethers, and / or mixtures thereof in a total concentration of greater than 10% by weight, based on the total weight of a third composition, wherein the third composition comprises less than 40% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the third composition. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0026] The present inventors have surprisingly found that a combination of two blue direct hair dyes, HC Blue 18 and tetrabromophenol blue, produces an intense coloring effect when applied simultaneously with a bleaching compound. The undesirable yellow to red tint after bleaching is avoided and the coloration is intense, bright and perceived as natural.

[0027] Bleaching and coloring compositions

[0028] The present invention relates to a bleaching and coloring composition for keratin fibers, preferably for human keratin fibers, more preferably for human hair, comprising:

[0029] a) one or more alkalizing agents;

[0030] b) one or more bleaching compounds;

[0031] c) HC Blue 18 and / or its salts;

[0032] d) Tetrabromophenol blue and / or its salts.

[0033] Compounds according to group a)

[0034] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkalizing agents as compounds according to a).

[0035] From the standpoint of storage stability and bleaching power, it is preferred that the one or more compounds according to group a) are one or more inorganic alkalizing agents, preferably selected from metasilicates, carbonates and / or bicarbonates, and / or alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts thereof, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0036] Other suitable inorganic alkalizing agents are ammonia salts, such as alkali metal salts and / or alkaline earth metal salts of ammonia. Suitable examples are ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate and ammonium phosphate.

[0037] From the viewpoint of storage stability and bleaching ability, it is further preferred that the one or more inorganic alkalizing agents according to group a) is sodium metasilicate.

[0038] From the viewpoint of bleaching power, it is further preferred that the one or more compounds according to group a) are organic alkalizers, preferably selected from alkylamines or alkanolamines according to the general formula, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0039]

[0040] wherein R1, R2 and R3 are the same or different H, C1 to C4, C3 to C4 unsaturated alkyl, C3 to C4 branched alkyl, C1 to C4 hydroxyalkyl, C3 to C4 unsaturated hydroxyalkyl, C3 to C4 branched hydroxyalkyl, provided that at least one of R1, R2 or R3 is different from H.

[0041] Suitable organic alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, monomethylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, monoethylamine, diethylamine, trimethylamine and 2-aminomethylpropanol.

[0042] The most preferred organic alkalizing agents according to group a) are selected from monoethanolamine and / or 2-aminomethylpropanol, and / or mixtures thereof, and / or salts thereof.

[0043] Particularly suitable are mixtures of inorganic alkalizing agents according to group a) and / or their salts with organic alkalizing agents according to group a) and / or their salts.

[0044] From the viewpoint of alkalinity and bleaching ability, the total concentration of the compounds according to group a) is preferably 0.25 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, further more preferably 1 wt% or more, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0045] From the viewpoint of basicity and stability, the total concentration of the compounds according to group a) is preferably 30 wt% or less, preferably 25 wt% or less, even more preferably 20 wt% or less, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0046] In order to achieve the above-mentioned effects, the total concentration of the compounds according to group a) is preferably in the range of 0.25% to 30% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably in the range of 1% to 20% by weight, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0047] Compounds according to group b)

[0048] The compositions according to the invention comprise one or more bleaching compounds as compounds according to group b).

[0049] Bleaching compounds in the sense of the present invention are molecules which interact with the natural melanin in keratin fibres and partially or completely destroy them, thereby causing them to lose their colour. Due to the interaction with the bleaching compounds, the colour of the treated keratin fibres becomes lighter.

[0050] From the viewpoint of strong bleaching ability, it is preferred that the one or more compounds according to group b) are one or more persalts and / or peroxy salts.

[0051] Suitable persalts and / or peroxysalts are sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, alkaline earth metal peroxides such as magnesium peroxide, melamine peroxide or urea peroxide or phthalimidoperoxycaproic acid. From the viewpoint of bleaching power, preferred persalts are sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate.

[0052] From the viewpoint of strong bleaching ability, the total concentration of one or more persalts and / or peroxysalts as the compounds according to group b) is preferably 10 wt % or more, preferably 15 wt % or more, further more preferably 20 wt % or more, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0053] From the standpoint of damage to keratin fibers, it is preferred that the total concentration of the one or more persalts and / or peroxysalts as compounds according to group b) is 80% by weight or less, preferably 70% by weight or less, even more preferably 60% by weight or less, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0054] In order to obtain the above-mentioned effects, the total concentration of the one or more persalts and / or peroxysalts as compounds according to group b) is preferably in the range of 10 wt % to 80 wt %, further more preferably in the range of 15 wt % to 70 wt %, still further more preferably in the range of 20 wt % to 60 wt %, still further more preferably in the range of 25 wt % to 60 wt %, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0055] Compounds according to group c)

[0056] The composition according to the invention comprises HC Blue 18 and / or its salts as compounds according to group c).

[0057] From the viewpoint of dyeing strength, it is preferred that the total concentration of the compounds according to group c) is 0.001 wt%, more preferably 0.005 wt%, even more preferably 0.01 wt%, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0058] For economic reasons, it is preferred that the total concentration of the compounds according to group c) is less than 2.5 wt.-%, preferably less than 2 wt.-%, further more preferably less than 1.7 wt.-%, still further more preferably less than 1 wt.-%, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0059] In order to achieve the above-mentioned effects, the total concentration of the compounds according to group c) is preferably in the range of 0.001 wt. % to 2.5 wt. %, preferably in the range of 0.005 wt. % to 2 wt. %, more preferably in the range of 0.01 wt. % to 1.7 wt. %, still more preferably in the range of 0.01 wt. % to 1 wt. %, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0060] Compounds according to group d)

[0061] The composition of the invention comprises tetrabromophenol blue and / or its salts as compound according to group d).

[0062] The commercially available tetrabromophenol blue is a mixture of hexabromo, heptabromo and octabromophenolsulfonphthalein. Therefore, the general term tetrabromophenol blue used in the present invention includes the above compounds and mixtures thereof.

[0063] From the viewpoint of dyeing strength, the total concentration of the compounds according to group d) is preferably 0.001 wt % or more, more preferably 0.005 wt % or more, further more preferably 0.01 wt % or more, and still further more preferably 0.025 wt % or more, calculated based on the total weight of the composition.

[0064] From the perspective of commercial and cosmetic safety, it is preferred that the total concentration of the compounds according to group d) is 5 wt.-% or less, more preferably 2 wt.-% or less, even more preferably 1 wt.-% or less, still even more preferably 0.75 wt.-% or less, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0065] In order to achieve the above-mentioned effects, the total concentration of the compounds according to group d) is preferably in the range of 0.001 wt % to 5 wt %, preferably in the range of 0.005 wt % to 2 wt %, more preferably in the range of 0.01 wt % to 1 wt %, even more preferably in the range of 0.025 wt % to 0.75 wt %, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0066] From the viewpoint of staining strength, it is further preferred that the weight ratio of the compound according to group c) to the compound according to group d) is 1 or more, more preferably 2 or more, and even more preferably 5 or more.

[0067] From the viewpoint of dyeing strength and commercial reasons, it is further preferred that the weight ratio of the compounds according to group c) to the compounds according to group d) is 20 or less, more preferably 15 or less, even more preferably 12 or less.

[0068] In order to obtain the above effects, it is preferred that the weight ratio of the compound according to group c) to the compound according to group d) ranges from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15, more preferably from 5 to 12.

[0069] Product form

[0070] From the perspective of product stability, it is preferred that the composition of the present invention comprises less than 10 wt% water, preferably less than 5 wt% water, more preferably less than 1 wt% water, and even more preferably is anhydrous.

[0071] The term "anhydrous" refers to a composition that contains no added water. However, bound water, water of crystallization, or adhering atmospheric moisture are not considered added water.

[0072] In one aspect of the present invention, the composition is a bleaching powder composition and comprises one or more pulverulent excipients as compounds according to group e), preferably in a total concentration greater than 30% by weight, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0073] From the perspective of powder stability, it is preferred that it contains less than 10 wt% water, preferably less than 5 wt% water, more preferably less than 1 wt% water, and even more preferably it is anhydrous.

[0074] Pulverulent excipients for the compounds according to group e) may be organic and / or inorganic pulverulent excipients in which the compounds of groups a) to d) are dispersed.

[0075] Any powdered excipient that does not react with dyes and alkalizing agents is suitable for the purposes of the present invention. Suitable are, for example, diatomaceous earth, kaolin, bentonite, starch, in particular corn starch, tapioca starch, rice starch, wheat starch and potato starch, nylon powder, montmorillonite, gypsum, sawdust and perlite.

[0076] For this aspect of the invention, from the perspective of powder stability, it is preferred that the total concentration of the compounds according to group e) is 10 wt % or more, more preferably 15 wt % or more, even more preferably 20 wt % or more, further more preferably 30 wt % or more, calculated based on the total weight of the composition.

[0077] From the viewpoint of powder stability, the total concentration of the compounds according to group e) is preferably 90 wt% or less, more preferably 85 wt% or less, even more preferably 80 wt% or less, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0078] In order to obtain the above-mentioned effects, the total concentration of the compounds according to group e) is preferably in the range of 10 wt % to 90 wt %, more preferably in the range of 15 wt % to 85 wt %, further more preferably in the range of 20 wt % to 80 wt %, still further more preferably in the range of 30 wt % to 80 wt %, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0079] In another aspect of the invention, the composition is a bleaching cream composition and comprises as compound according to group f) one or more lipophilic compounds which are liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure and preferably in a total concentration greater than 30% by weight, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0080] From the perspective of bleaching paste stability, it is preferred that it contains less than 10 wt% water, preferably less than 5 wt% water, more preferably less than 1 wt% water, and even more preferably it is anhydrous.

[0081] Suitable compounds according to group f) are natural and / or vegetable oils, petrolatum-based compounds, linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with C12 to C22 chains, and fatty acid esters obtained by esterifying linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids with C12 to C22 chains with primary alcohols with C3 to C12 chains, and silicones.

[0082] Suitable natural and / or vegetable oils are olive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, wheat germ oil and castor oil.

[0083] Suitable petrolatum-based compounds are liquid paraffins, in particular light liquid paraffin (paraffinum perliquidum) and heavy liquid paraffin (paraffinum subliquidum), and mineral oil, in particular white mineral oil.

[0084] Suitable fatty compounds included among the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having C12 to C22 are lauryl alcohol, tridecanol, myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, heptadecanol, stearyl alcohol, nonadecanol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and / or mixtures thereof, for example cetearyl alcohol.

[0085] Suitable examples of fatty acid esters formed by esterifying a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having C12 to C22 with a linear or branched primary alcohol having C3 to C18 are octyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl stearate, oleyl oleate and myristyl myristate, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Suitably, the composition may further comprise a lipophilic ingredient, for example silicones, for example linear polysiloxanes, for example dimethicone and dimethiconol of various consistencies, aminated silicones with primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary ammonium groups, for example amodimethicone, polysilicone 9 and Quaternium 80, cyclic silicones, for example cyclomethicone, arylated silicones, for example phenyl trimethicone; C10- to C36-fatty acid triglycerides; and mixtures thereof.

[0087] For this aspect of the invention, from the perspective of bleaching paste stability, it is preferred that the total concentration of compounds according to group f) is greater than 30% by weight, more preferably greater than 35% by weight, even more preferably greater than 40% by weight, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0088] From the viewpoint of powder stability, the total concentration of the compounds according to group f) is preferably 90 wt% or less, more preferably 85 wt% or less, even more preferably 80 wt% or less, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0089] In order to obtain the above-mentioned effects, the total concentration of the compounds according to group f) is preferably in the range of 30% to 90% by weight, more preferably in the range of 35% to 85% by weight, and even more preferably in the range of 30% to 80% by weight, calculated on the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Thickening polymers

[0091] From the perspective of cosmetic safety, it is advantageous that the composition of the present invention further comprises one or more thickening polymers.

[0092] Preferably, the thickening polymer is chosen from polymers that form aqueous solutions and / or dispersions having a pH between 8 and 10 and have a viscosity of at least 5,000 mPa·s in water at 25° C. at a polymer concentration of 1% by weight, calculated on the total weight of the composition, as measured by a Brookfield viscometer, for example at 10 rpm for 1 minute, at 25° C. using a suitable spindle.

[0093] Suitable nonionic thickening polymers are cellulose-based polymers. Suitable examples of cellulose-based polymers are methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose and alkylated hydroxycelluloses, such as (C2-C8)-alkylcellulose or cetylhydroxyethylcellulose.

[0094] Suitable anionic thickening polymers are selected from natural anionic polymers and / or synthetic anionic polymers.

[0095] Suitably, the natural anionic polymer may be selected from xanthan gum, dehydrogenated xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, carboxymethyl cellulose, and starch-based polymers such as plant starch and / or their synthetically modified derivatives such as hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. Also suitable are alginic acid, sodium alginate, ammonium alginate, calcium alginate, gum arabic and guar gum.

[0096] From the viewpoint of their biodegradability and low environmental impact, preferred thickening polymers for the composition of the present invention are natural anionic polymers, more preferably xanthan gum and / or dehydroxanthan gum.

[0097] From the perspective of providing sufficient viscosity to the composition, the total concentration of the thickening polymer of the present invention is preferably 0.1 wt% or more, more preferably 0.25 wt% or more, and even more preferably 0.5 wt% or more, calculated based on the total weight of the composition.

[0098] From the perspective of providing sufficient viscosity to the composition and commodity cost, the total concentration of the thickening polymer of the present invention is preferably 15 wt% or less, more preferably 12 wt% or more, and even more preferably 10 wt% or less, calculated based on the total weight of the composition.

[0099] In order to achieve the above-mentioned effects, the total concentration of the thickening polymer in the composition of the present invention is preferably in the range of 0.1 wt % to 15 wt %, preferably in the range of 0.25 wt % to 12 wt %, more preferably in the range of 0.5 wt % to 10 wt %, calculated based on the total weight of the composition.

[0100] Optional Ingredients

[0101] From the standpoint of the mixability of the composition according to the invention and the wettability of the keratin fibers, it is further preferred that the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more surfactants as compounds according to g), more preferably selected from nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants / amphoteric surfactants.

[0102] Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle the anionic surfactants known from cleaning compositions. These are anionic surfactants of the sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate and alkylphosphate type, for example the known C 10 -C 18 - alkyl sulfates, in particular the respective ether sulfates, such as C 12 -C 14 Alkyl ether sulfates, especially lauryl ether sulfates having 1 to 4 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide sulfates obtained by ethoxylation and subsequent sulfation of fatty acid alkanolamides, and alkali metal salts thereof, and salts of long-chain monoalkyl and dialkyl phosphates. Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfate surfactants, especially lauryl sulfate and its salts.

[0103] Other suitable surfactants are nonionic surfactants. Non-limiting examples are long-chain fatty acid mono- and di-alkanolamides (e.g. coconut fatty acid mono- or di-ethanolamide and myristic fatty acid mono- or di-ethanolamide, stearic acid mono- or di-ethanolamide), alkyl polyglucosides having an alkyl group of 8 to 18 carbon atoms and having 1 to 5 glucoside units, sorbitan esters (e.g. polyethylene glycol sorbitan stearate, palmitate, myristate and laurate), fatty acid polyglycol esters or polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide (e.g., commercially available under the trade name "Pluronics R ”), and fatty alcohol ethoxylates, C 10 -C 22Fatty alcohol ethoxylates (known according to the CTFA nomenclature by the general terms "Laureth", "Myristeth", "Oleth", "Ceteth", "Deceth", "Steareth" and "Ceteareth", including the number of added ethylene oxide molecules, for example "Laureth-16": the average degree of ethoxylation is therefore between about 2.5 and about 100, preferably between about 10 and about 30).

[0104] Suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are, in particular, the various known betaines, such as alkylbetaines, fatty acid amide alkylbetaines and sultaines, for example lauryl hydroxysultaine; long-chain alkylamino acids, for example cocoaminoacetate, cocoaminopropionate and sodium cocoamphopropionate and sodium cocoamphoacetate are also suitable.

[0105] Typical cationic surfactants are cetyltrimonium chloride, stearyltrimonium chloride, dipalmitoyldimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, dioleoethyldimethylammonium methosulfate, dioleoethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate.

[0106] From the viewpoint of composition stability, wettability of keratin fibers and dispersibility of ingredients, the total concentration of the compounds according to g) is preferably 0.1 wt % or more, preferably 0.2 wt % or more, and even more preferably 0.25 wt % or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0107] From the viewpoint of composition stability, wettability of keratin fibers and dispersibility of ingredients, the total concentration of the compounds according to g) is preferably 5 wt % or less, preferably 4 wt % or less, and even more preferably 2.5 wt % or less, calculated based on the total weight of the composition.

[0108] In order to obtain the above-mentioned effects, the total concentration of the compounds according to g) is preferably in the range of 0.1 wt % to 5 wt %, more preferably in the range of 0.2 wt % to 4 wt %, and even more preferably in the range of 0.2 wt % to 2.5 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0109] The composition of the present invention may further comprise one or more other direct dyes different from those in groups c) and d). Suitable direct dyes may be selected from cationic dyes, anionic dyes and nonionic dyes.

[0110] Suitable anionic direct dyes are Acid Black 1, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Food Blue 5, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 74, Acid Orange 3, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Red 1, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 50, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 88, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 155, Acid Red 180, Acid Violet 9, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 3, Food Yellow No. 8, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 8, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, FD&C Red 2, FD&C Red 40, FD&C Red No. 4, FD&C Yellow No. 6, FD&C Blue 1, Food Black 1, Food Black 2, Disperse Black 9 and Disperse Violet 1, and their alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium. Among them, the most preferred anionic dyes are Acid Red 52, DC Violet 2, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Red 27, and DC Yellow 10.

[0111] Suitable cationic dyes are in principle cationic dyes that can be used for cosmetic hair dyeing applications on the market. For this reason, PCT application WO 95 / 15144 to Ciba-Geigy AG is particularly referenced. Some examples of these applications are Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 4, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Natural Brown 7, Basic Green 1, Basic Red 2, Basic Red 12, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87, HC Blue 17 and Basic Orange 31. Most preferably, Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, HC Blue 17 and Basic Blue 124.

[0112] Suitable neutral dyes including nitro dyes are HC Blue No. 2, HC Blue No. 4, HC Blue No. 5, HC Blue No. 6, HC Blue No. 7, HC Blue No. 8, HC Blue No. 9, HC Blue No. 10, HC Blue No. 11, HC Blue No. 12, HC Blue No. 13, HC Brown No. 1, HC Brown No. 2, HC Green No. 1, HC Orange No. 1, HC Orange No. 2, HC Orange No. 3, HC Orange No. 5, HC Red BN, HC Red No. 1, HC Red No. 3, HC Red No. 7, HC Red No. 8, HC Red No. 9, HC Red No. 10, HC Red No. 11, HC Red No. 13, HC Red No. 54, HC Red No. 14, HC Violet BS, HC Violet No. 1, HC Violet No. 2, HC Yellow No. 2, HC Yellow No. 4, HC Yellow No. 5, HC Yellow No. 6, HC Yellow No. 7, HC Yellow No. 8, HC Yellow No. 9, HC Yellow No. 10, HC Yellow No. 11, HC Yellow No. 12, HC Yellow No. 13, HC Yellow No. 14, HC Yellow No. 15, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, picramic acid, 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-aminophenol, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-3-nitrobenzene and 2-hydroxyethylpicramic acid.

[0113] The composition may comprise one or more other direct dyes different from those of groups c) and d) in a total concentration of 0.001% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0114] Two-part composition

[0115] The present invention also relates to a two-part bleaching and coloring composition comprising a first composition as defined above and a second aqueous composition having a pH in the range of 1 to 6 and comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0116] The second aqueous composition preferably comprises hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent, preferably in a concentration range of 0.1 to 20 wt %, preferably 0.25 to 15 wt %, more preferably 0.5 to 12 wt %, based on the total weight of the second aqueous composition.

[0117] The pH of the second aqueous composition is preferably in the range of 1.5 to 5, more preferably in the range of 2 to 4.5, and is adjusted by suitable acids and bases.

[0118] From the perspective of compatibility with the first composition, it is further preferred that the second aqueous composition comprises one or more lipophilic compounds according to f), as described above for the bleaching and dyeing compositions. In this case, the second aqueous composition is an emulsion and preferably further comprises one or more surfactants as compounds according to g), as described above for the dyeing composition.

[0119] The first and second compositions of this aspect of the invention are intended to be mixed directly before application to the keratin fibres.

[0120] Dyeing method

[0121] The present invention also relates to a method for bleaching and coloring keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising the following steps:

[0122] i) mixing a bleaching and coloring composition as defined above with a second aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide, and having a pH in the range of 1 to 6, to obtain a ready-to-use composition having a pH in the range of 7 to 12;

[0123] ii) applying the ready-to-use composition to the keratin fibers and leaving them to remain there for a period of time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, and optionally heating the keratin fibers to a temperature ranging from 30° C. to 60° C.; and

[0124] iii) rinsing the keratin fibers and optionally drying the keratin fibers.

[0125] From the perspective of color intensity, it is preferred that the pH of the ready-to-use composition defined in step i) is in the range of 8 to 11, more preferably in the range of 8.5 to 10.5.

[0126] From the viewpoint of dyeing strength and dyeing process economy, it is further preferred that the residence time defined in step ii) is in the range of 2 minutes to 45 minutes, more preferably in the range of 5 minutes to 40 minutes, and even more preferably in the range of 10 minutes to 30 minutes.

[0127] Kit

[0128] The present invention also relates to a kit for bleaching and coloring keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably human hair, comprising:

[0129] - a first composition as defined above;

[0130] - a second aqueous composition having a pH in the range of 1 to 6 and comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide;

[0131] - a third composition selected from:

[0132] - an anhydrous composition comprising one or more oxidizable solvents, preferably selected from 2-phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and / or mixtures thereof; or

[0133] A composition comprising one or more alkoxylated organopolysiloxanes, one or more compounds selected from alkoxylated glycerides and / or optionally alkoxylated alkyl glyceryl ethers, and / or mixtures thereof in a total concentration of greater than 10% by weight, based on the total weight of a third composition, wherein the third composition comprises less than 40% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the third composition.

[0134] The anhydrous third composition comprises at least one oxidizable solvent. The term "oxidizable" means that the solvent is oxidized, at least partially or completely, under the conditions used for bleaching and dyeing of keratin fibers.

[0135] Suitable solvents are aromatic or aliphatic alcohols and preferably contain only one OH group in their molecules. Preferably, the aromatic alcohol has a LogP value (octanol-water partition coefficient) at 25° C. in the range of 0 to 2.5, preferably in the range of 0.05 to 2, more preferably in the range of 1 to 2, and most preferably in the range of 1.1 to 1.7. Suitable aromatic oxidizable alcohols are 2-phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenylethanol, and 2-benzyloxyethanol. Suitable aliphatic alcohols are isopropanol, propanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, and 1-pentanol.

[0136] From the viewpoint of dye stability, the most preferred oxidizable organic alcohol is an aromatic alcohol selected from benzyl alcohol, 2-phenoxyethanol, and 2-phenylethanol. Benzyl alcohol and / or 2-phenoxyethanol and / or 2-phenylethanol are particularly preferred.

[0137] For the third composition comprising an alkoxylated polyorganosiloxane, it is preferred from the standpoint of dye strength that the alkoxylated non-aminated organopolysiloxane is an alkoxylated polydimethylsiloxane copolymer; most preferably, PEG / PPG-20 / 23 dimethicone.

[0138] For the third composition, it is further preferred that the one or more compounds selected from alkoxylated glycerides are PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-9 cocoyl glycerides, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and PEG-200 hydrogenated palmitic glyceride.

[0139] The third composition described above comprises less than 40% by weight of water.

[0140] From the perspective of formulation stability, the composition preferably contains less than 30 wt% water, more preferably less than 20 wt% water, even more preferably less than 10 wt% water, further more preferably less than 5 wt% water, and even more preferably is anhydrous.

[0141] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention but are not intended to limit the present invention.

[0142] Example

[0143] The following composition was prepared by mixing the powder ingredients together and adding the dye as a final step:

[0144]

[0145] The above powder composition was mixed with the following oxidizing composition in a weight ratio of 1:1.4 and then applied directly to the hair:

[0146]

[0147] The pH of the resulting ready-to-use mixture was approximately 9.5.

[0148] The following bleaching and coloring results were obtained:

[0149]

[0150] Discussion of the results

[0151] Compared to the comparative examples, Example 1 has the lowest L* value, indicating the strongest absorption of the blue dye. It must be concluded that the dyeing strength is greatly improved and that no single dye exhibits such a high dye absorption.

[0152] Comparative Example 1 had positive b* values, indicating an undesirable yellow shift in the treated hair in all cases. Comparative Example 2 exhibited a strong yellow shift on L6 hair. However, as noted above, the intensity was weak, as indicated by the L* values.

[0153] Example 1 shows the most balanced bleaching and coloring results, while trending towards the desired bluish shade (b* value close to 0, but negative).

[0154] method

[0155] Human grade 6 hair (21 cm long, 2 g per tress) was purchased from International Hair Importers, Glendale, NY, U.S.A. The hair was shampooed prior to treatment.

[0156] 2 g of each of the above compositions was applied to a hair tress and left at 50°C for 30 minutes. The tress was then rinsed with water, cleaned with shampoo, and blow-dried. Color measurements were obtained using a colorimeter using the CIE colorimetric system (L*, a*, b*).

[0157] The following embodiments are within the scope of the present invention.

[0158] Example 2

[0159]

Claims

1. A bleaching and coloring composition for keratin fibers, wherein Include: a) one or more alkalizing agents; b) one or more bleaching compounds; c) HC Blue 18 and / or its salts; d) tetrabromophenol blue and / or its salts, The total concentration of HC Blue 18 and / or its salt is in the range of 0.01 wt % to 1 wt % based on the total weight of the composition. The total concentration of tetrabromophenol blue and / or its salt is in the range of 0.025 wt % to 0.75 wt % based on the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The alkalizing agent is an inorganic alkalizing agent.

3. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The alkalizing agent is selected from metasilicates, carbonates, and / or bicarbonates, and / or alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts thereof, and / or mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The alkalizing agent is sodium metasilicate.

5. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The alkalizing agent is an organic alkalizing agent.

6. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The alkalizing agent is selected from alkylamines or alkanolamines according to the general formula, and / or mixtures thereof, The general formula is: wherein R1, R2 and R3 are the same or different H, C3 to C4 unsaturated alkyl, C3 to C4 branched alkyl, C1 to C4 hydroxyalkyl, C3 to C4 unsaturated hydroxyalkyl, C3 to C4 branched hydroxyalkyl, provided that at least one of R1, R2 or R3 is different from H.

7. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The alkalizing agent is selected from monoethanolamine and / or 2-aminomethyl propanol, and / or a mixture thereof, and / or a salt thereof.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The total concentration of the alkalizing agent is in the range of 0.25 wt % to 30 wt % based on the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The total concentration of the alkalizing agent is in the range of 0.5 wt % to 25 wt % based on the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The total concentration of the alkalizing agent is in the range of 1 wt % to 20 wt % based on the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The bleaching compounds are persalts and / or peroxygen salts.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The total concentration of the bleaching compounds ranges from 10% to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The total concentration of the bleaching compounds ranges from 15% to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The total concentration of the bleaching compounds ranges from 20% to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The total concentration of the bleaching compounds ranges from 25% to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The weight ratio of the HC Blue 18 and / or its salt to the tetrabromophenol blue and / or its salt is in the range of 1 to 20.

17. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The weight ratio of the HC Blue 18 and / or its salt to the tetrabromophenol blue and / or its salt is in the range of 2 to 15.

18. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The weight ratio of the HC Blue 18 and / or its salt to the tetrabromophenol blue and / or its salt is in the range of 5 to 12.

19. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The composition comprises one or more thickening polymers.

20. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The composition comprises one or more thickening polymers at a total concentration ranging from 0.1 wt % to 15 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition.

21. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The composition comprises one or more thickening polymers at a total concentration ranging from 0.25 wt % to 12 wt % based on the total weight of the composition.

22. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The composition comprises one or more thickening polymers at a total concentration ranging from 0.5 wt % to 10 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition.

23. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The composition comprises less than 10% by weight water.

24. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The composition comprises less than 5% by weight water.

25. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The composition comprises less than 1% by weight water.

26. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The composition is anhydrous.

27. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The composition is a bleaching powder composition and comprises one or more pulverulent excipients as compounds of group e).

28. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The composition is a bleaching powder composition and comprises one or more powdered excipients as compounds of group e), the total content of the compounds of group e) being greater than 10 wt % based on the total weight of the composition.

29. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The composition is a bleaching cream composition and comprises as compounds of group f) one or more lipophilic compounds which are liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure.

30. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that The composition is a bleaching cream composition and comprises one or more lipophilic compounds as compounds of group f), which are liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure and whose total content is greater than 30% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

31. A two-part bleaching and coloring composition characterized in that The method comprises: the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 as a first composition; and a second aqueous composition having a pH in the range of 1 to 6 and comprising hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent.

32. A method for bleaching and coloring keratin fibers, wherein: The following steps are involved: i) mixing the bleaching and coloring composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 with a second aqueous composition comprising hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent and having a pH in the range of 1 to 6 to obtain a ready-to-use composition having a pH in the range of 7 to 12; ii) applying the ready-to-use composition to the keratin fibers and leaving it to remain there for a period of time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, and optionally heating the keratin fibers to a temperature ranging from 30° C. to 60° C.; and iii) rinsing the keratin fibers and optionally drying the keratin fibers.

33. A kit for bleaching and coloring keratin fibers, wherein: Include: - the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 as the first composition; - a second aqueous composition having a pH in the range of 1 to 6 and comprising hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent; - a third composition selected from: - an anhydrous composition comprising one or more oxidizable solvents selected from 2-phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and / or mixtures thereof; or A composition comprising one or more alkoxylated organopolysiloxanes, one or more compounds selected from alkoxylated glycerides and / or optionally alkoxylated alkyl glyceryl ethers, and / or mixtures thereof in a total concentration of greater than 10% by weight, based on the total weight of a third composition, wherein the third composition comprises less than 40% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the third composition.

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