Silk general cloth made of tussah silk and weaving process thereof

Abstract

The patent application provides a tussah silk general officer cloth and a weaving process method. The tussah silk general officer cloth is woven by using tussah silk as raw material, warp yarn and weft yarn, and plain weave. The tussah silk raw material is tussah medicinal water silk with fineness of 70D. The warp yarn and the weft yarn are both formed by 8 single filaments and different process twisted and combined yarns. The product is very consistent with the use design requirements in stiffness, smooth hand feeling, and smooth and oily quality, and becomes a tussah silk high-grade general officer cloth fabric.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present patent application relates to natural silk fabric and its weaving method, in particular to tussah silk fabric and its weaving process. BACKGROUND

[0002] The silk fabric made of tussah silk has a soft and warm luster like pearl, and has the characteristics of light and soft quality, soft and vertical, delicate, smooth, breathable and good moisture absorption, and is more suitable for skin-friendly underwear fabric or typical jacquard fabric. With the deepening of people's understanding of the quality characteristics of silk, the demand for high-end clothing fabric, especially formal wear fabric, is increasing, but this contradicts the natural light and soft quality characteristics of tussah silk. Formal wear fabric, such as diplomat uniform fabric and senior official uniform fabric, requires stiffness and thickness as the most basic technical requirements. To maintain the natural softness of tussah silk and present the stiffness and thickness of formal wear fabric, the technical designers face great technical challenges. SUMMARY

[0003] The purpose of the present patent application is to reverse the traditional and habitual understanding that tussah silk is only suitable as a light and thin silk fabric raw material, break through the technical limitations and process technical problems, and develop the application of tussah silk fabric in formal wear fabric category, and provide a tussah silk general serge and its weaving process.

[0004] The tussah silk general serge weaving process provided by the present patent application has the following main technical content: a tussah silk general serge weaving process, the general serge is woven by tussah silk as raw material of warp yarn and weft yarn, and the tussah silk raw material is selected from tussah medicine water silk with fineness of 70 D The warp yarn and weft yarn are obtained by the following processing technology:

[0005] The warp yarn is processed by twisting and combining 8 single filaments:

[0006] The 8 single filaments are divided into two groups, and the single filaments in each group are twisted by no more than 8T and no less than 3T, then combined and twisted by 2.4T, then the two groups are combined, and then twisted in the opposite direction by 4T.

[0007] The weft yarn is processed by twisting and combining 8 single filaments

[0008] The 8 single filaments are divided into two groups, and the single filaments in each group are twisted and combined, then twisted, and then combined and twisted in the opposite direction; wherein the two twistings before and after the group combination are opposite to each other, and the twist degrees are 2.4T and 3T respectively; the single filaments in each group are twisted by no more than 6T and no less than 3T.

[0009] The plain weave has a weaving density of 37-39 / inch in warp density and 32-35 / inch in weft density.

[0010] In one preferred option of the above overall technical solution, the warp yarn is:

[0011] {(1 / 70 D 8T / S+1 / 70 D 8T / S+1 / 70 D 8T / S+1 / 70 D 8T / S)2.4T / Z×2}4T / S;

[0012] The weft yarn is:

[0013] {(1 / 70 D 6T / Z+1 / 70 D 6T / Z+1 / 70 D 6T / Z+1 / 70 D 6T / Z)2.4T / S×2}3T / Z.

[0014] In one preferred option of the above overall technical solution, the warp yarn has a twist degree per single yarn in each strand.

[0015] In one preferred option of the above overall technical solution, the warp yarn is: D 8T / S+1 / 70 D 5T / Z+1 / 70 D 6T / S+1 / 70 D 3T / Z)2.4T / Z×2}4T / S;

[0016] The weft yarn is:

[0017] {(2 / 70 D 6T / S+2 / 70 D 3T / Z)3T / S×2}2.4T / S.

[0018] In one preferred option of the above overall technical solution, the plain weave has a weaving density of 37 / inch in warp density and 35 / inch in weft density.

[0019] The patent application also provides a tussah silk general serge knitted by the tussah silk general serge knitting process method. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0020] The technical solution of the patent application will be described in detail below through the following technical description.

[0021] To achieve the thickness requirements of the formal fabric, the raw material selection is to use medicine water silk in tussah silk as raw silk, and the weave selection is to use plain weave, in which the warp and weft are both composed of eight single filaments, and the warp density is initially designed as:

[0022] 35 / inch, weft density 33 / inch;

[0023] The initial processing technology of warp and weft is:

[0024] Warp {(4 / 70 D 4T / Z) x 2} 3T / S

[0025] Weft {(4 / 70D 3T / Z) x 2} 2.4T / S.

[0026] After the product is woven, it is found that the texture is slightly soft and the crispness is not ideal. Through technical analysis, it is considered that the warp and weft density is not reasonable, the warp density is too small, and the warp density is adjusted to 39 / inch, and the upper limit of weft density can only be 32 / inch. The woven product has obvious warp effect due to too high warp density, which leads to insufficient fullness of the plain weave of the fabric, and the weaving density needs to be adjusted.

[0027] By adjusting the warp density to 37 / inch, the weft density is maximized to 35 / inch, and the plain weave of the silk fabric is flat and full, and the weave effect is excellent. However, without reasonable warp and weft combination, the woven product still has many defects in appearance and hand feeling, such as the above-mentioned warp and weft combination, which has the technical problem of easy fluffing of warp, affecting the weaving efficiency and product appearance; in addition, the warp and weft are easy to form dog buckle, which brings great difficulty to weaving, and affects the appearance and hand feeling of the product, and the quality of high-end products is still far away.

[0028] Based on the above scheme, the warp and weft processing technology is adjusted and improved again to greatly improve the appearance and hand feeling of the final product. However, it is also very important to determine the appropriate warp and weft processing technology to cooperate with the weaving density, eliminate its influence on weaving, and maintain the smooth and soft characteristics of tussah silk without sacrificing the obtained crispness and thickness performance to meet the technical requirements of high-end fabric product quality.

[0029] The warp and weft processing technology is adjusted again, each single filament is twisted, then 4 strands are twisted, then 2 strands are twisted in reverse, that is:

[0030] Warp: {(1 / 70 D 6T / S + 1 / 70 D 6T / S + 1 / 70 D 6T / S + 1 / 70 D6T / S)1.4T / Zx2}3T / S;

[0031] Weft: {(1 / 70 D 6T / Z+1 / 70 D 6T / Z+1 / 70 D 6T / Z+1 / 70 D 6T / Z)2.4T / Sx2}3T / Z;

[0032] The product obtained by weaving the plain weave fabric presents convex and concave particles, and has a smooth and crisp texture, but the crispness and appearance style are still not ideal. In order to pursue higher product quality, the product still has room for improvement. Technical improvement test is implemented again, the single filament twist of warp yarn is increased, and the weft yarn is the same:

[0033] Warp: {(1 / 70 D 8T / S+1 / 70 D 8T / S+1 / 70 D 8T / S+1 / 70 D 8T / S)2.4T / Zx2}4T / S

[0034] Weft {(1 / 70 D 6T / Z+1 / 70 D 6T / Z+1 / 70 D 6T / Z+1 / 70 D 6T / Z)2.4T / Sx2}3T / Z,

[0035] The product obtained by weaving the plain weave fabric is more ideal in crispness than the previous test, and the appearance and hand feeling of the product are ideal after natural setting, but under the premise of not implementing high-temperature setting process, the single filament twist has reached the maximum limit, and dog buckle will occur, which will affect the product quality.

[0036] On this basis, the technical personnel boldly conceived that in the design of warp yarn, two single filaments 1 / 70 D are twisted in the opposite direction, and when the four strands are combined, each warp yarn has two combined yarns with the same twist direction, which is equivalent to increasing the upper line twist of the whole warp yarn. Especially, the twist of the single filaments in the two strands is set to be progressive, which solves the occurrence of dog buckle in the process of forming silk, and the silk is more obedient in the process of forming, so as to cleverly increase the twist and reduce the occurrence of dog buckle, improve the product quality, and ensure that the product appearance style presents the appropriate crispness and smoothness. After a large number of repeated tests, the twist and twist direction of warp and weft yarns are finally determined as:

[0037] Warp {(1 / 70 D 8T / S+1 / 70 D 5T / Z+1 / 70D 6T / S+1 / 70 D 3T / Z)2.4T / Zx2}4T / S,

[0038] weft {(2 / 70 D 6T / S+2 / 70 D 3T / Z)3T / Sx2}2.4T / S.

[0039] The final weaving of the plain weave product not only the product style characteristics than the previous test effect more prominent, the hand crisp degree more moderate, smooth and slippery texture are very consistent with the design requirements, especially the reduction of dog buckle, the final fabric product quality is obviously better than the previous period of test products, become tussah high-grade general serge fabric.

Claims

1. A method for weaving tussah silk woolen fabric, characterized in that, This general's uniform is woven from tussah silk using warp and weft threads in a plain weave pattern. The tussah silk used is selected with a fineness of 70. D The tussah silkworm silk treated with medicine, wherein the warp and weft yarns are obtained according to the following processing technology: The warp yarn is made by twisting and combining 8 monofilaments: The eight monofilaments are divided into two strands, with each strand twisted by no more than 8T and no less than 3T. They are then combined and twisted by 2.4T, followed by the two strands being combined again and twisted in the opposite direction by 4T. Therefore, the warp yarn is: {(1 / 70) D 8T / S+1 / 70 D 5T / Z+1 / 70 D 6T / S+1 / 70 D 3T / Z)2.4T / Z×2}4T / S; The weft yarn is made by twisting and combining 8 monofilaments: The eight monofilaments are each divided into two strands. Each strand is twisted and then joined together, followed by further twisting. The two twisted strands are then joined together and twisted in opposite directions. The two twisting processes before and after joining are in opposite directions, with twist values ​​of 3T and 2.4T respectively. The twist value of each monofilament is no higher than 6T and no lower than 3T. Therefore, the weft yarn is: {(2 / 70 D 6T / S+2 / 70 D 3T / Z)3T / S×2}2.4T / S; The plain weave has a warp density of 37-39 / inch and a weft density of 32-35 / inch.

2. The method for weaving tussah silk woolen fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, Its plain weave fabric has a warp density of 37 / inch and a weft density of 35 / inch.

3. A tussah silk woolen fabric obtained by the tussah silk woolen fabric weaving process described in claims 1-2.