A weaving process for weaving a fabric with a napped appearance and applications
By alternately weaving the transfer loop, lock loop and yarn-free path of the weft-knitted double-sided jacquard machine, the problems of complex process and high cost of velvet fabrics are solved, and the velvet feeling can be achieved during weaving, which reduces costs and complies with environmental protection trends.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202310746266.X
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-06-25
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-10
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-06-25
AI Technical Summary
The existing velvet fabric production process is complex and costly. The use of velvet yarn is costly, and the polyester grey fabric brushing process consumes a lot of resources.
A weft-knitted double-sided jacquard machine is used to create a velvet effect through alternating weaving of transfer loops, lock loops and yarn-free loops, avoiding the use of velvet yarns and simplifying the process.
The fabric can be woven into a velvety feel, which reduces fabric costs, saves manpower and material resources, simplifies the process flow, and conforms to the popular trend of environmental protection and ecological imitation.
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Figure CN116770494B_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present application relates to the field of weaving, and in particular to a weaving process and application thereof that creates a velvety feel during weaving. Background Art
[0002] Common velvet fabrics on the market include flannel, snowflake velvet, milk velvet, baby velvet, and crystal velvet. Existing velvet fabrics include those made from velvet yarns (such as wool), which offer excellent warmth retention but are relatively expensive. Other fabrics include corduroy, polar fleece, and lambskin, which are made from polyester fibers woven into greige fabrics and then sanded or sheared. These fabrics are thick and offer excellent warmth retention, making them suitable for autumn and winter outerwear, shoes, and hats, as well as furniture upholstery and sofa fabrics.
[0003] More information related to the above technical solutions can be found in the following documents:
[0004] The Chinese patent document with application publication number CN 105908526 A discloses a dyeing and finishing process for special island-shaped special microfiber fabrics with special effects, which includes: weaving the yarn, washing, weaving needle punching and sanding, mixing the vats, unwinding, flat washing, fiber opening and alkaline dyeing, reduction washing, washing, squeezing and opening the width, flat washing, shaping and softening finishing, sanding and rolling. It can make the polyester microfiber fabric have a soft luster, soft texture, delicate and comfortable feel, and a strong leather and velvet feel. It is used for high-end car accessories, luggage, clothing, and apparel fabrics.
[0005] Chinese patent application number 201710843775.9 discloses a cashmere fabric, a fabric processing process, and a finishing process. The fabric is primarily composed of cashmere, milk protein fiber, wool, and mulberry silk. By utilizing these raw materials, their proper combination, and comprehensive processing and finishing processes, the resulting cashmere fabric offers excellent wear resistance and skin-friendliness, is reasonably priced, and is soft and warm, meeting the public's demand for cashmere fabrics.
[0006] In the process of implementing the present invention, the inventors found that the prior art has the following problems:
[0007] The cost of using velvet yarn to make velvet fabrics is relatively high, while the method of using polyester grey cloth brushing and sanding to make velvet fabrics is relatively complicated, with a large loss of human and material resources and high costs. Summary of the Invention
[0008] Therefore, it is necessary to provide a technical solution that can produce a velvety feel after weaving, so as to solve the problems of complex process and high cost in the prior art.
[0009] To achieve the above object, the inventor provides a weaving process for achieving the pile effect, which is woven by a weft knitting double jacquard machine. The yarn arrangement includes a transfer path, a locking path and a yarn-free path. The weaving steps include:
[0010] Transfer: the set weaving loop is transferred from the front surface to the back surface of the fabric, so that the fabric is in the state of single-sided cloth;
[0011] Looping: the empty needle of the transfer path performs a looping action once, and a loop is hung on the empty needle;
[0012] Loop shedding: the yarn nozzle of the yarn-free path is set to not hang yarn, and the empty needle of the yarn-free path performs a looping action once, so that the loop of the transfer path is shed from the needle hook, and an independent loop is formed on the fabric.
[0013] Weft knitting is a process in which yarn is fed into the working needles of a knitting machine in the weft direction, and is sequentially bent and interlocked to form a knitted fabric. From yarn feeding to loop formation, the normal needle operation sequence is as shown in Figure 1 . The formation of an old loop is formed by the eating of a new yarn to the old loop. The formation of the old loop is as shown in Figure 1 . The new yarn is a line in Figure 1 , and the process of eating to the old loop is from needle 5 to needle 10.
[0014] The fabric surface of normal weaving looping is flat, and the loops are connected one by one to the fabric surface. In order to achieve the effect of looping to shedding, the yarn nozzle of the yarn-free path is set to not feed yarn. Figure 1 . If the empty needle of the a line is removed, the old loop will be disconnected from the connection and become an independent loop that is raised. As shown in Figure 2 , the root of the shedding loop 1 is locked and fixed by the yarn 2, and the top is raised vertically to the fabric surface. The effect of the pile surface is formed by the shedding loop.
[0015] Specifically, the yarn arrangement includes a transfer path, a locking path and a yarn-free path. The transfer path weaves double-sided fabric into single-sided fabric, and performs a looping action once in the transfer path to form a loop. The locking path performs a normal interlocking looping action to lock the root of the loop of the transfer path. The yarn nozzle of the yarn-free path is not hung with yarn, so the empty needle of the yarn-free path does not hang with yarn and does not eat the yarn to form a connection, and performs an interlocking looping action to shed the loop of the transfer path. By such arrangement, one end of the loop of the transfer path is shed to form a pile effect, and the root of the loop is locked and fixed by the locking path.
[0016] In some embodiments, the steps further include: repeating the looping and shedding steps multiple times to form a plurality of independent loops on the fabric. By the ordered alternation of the looping of the transfer path and the shedding of the yarn-free path, a plurality of independent loops are formed on the fabric, the loops are integrated into a tuft, and a rich pile effect is formed.
[0017] In some embodiments, before the loop transferring step, a double-sided fabric with interconnected loops is woven.
[0018] Before the transfer step, we first weave double-sided fabric, that is, both the front and back sides are woven with normal connections. Through the design of textile computer jacquard software, a transfer work instruction is set in advance at the location where the pile is needed, and the knitted loops on this area are moved from the front to the back, so that the fabric surface of this area will be in the state of single-sided fabric. Figure 3 shown.
[0019] In some embodiments, the transfer loop, locking loop, and yarn-free loop are woven in a loop. The transfer loop performs a single yarn-taking loop, the locking loop locks the loops on the transfer loop, and the yarn-free loop forms no yarn loops, with the empty needle operating to remove the loops on the transfer loop. This process is not limited to a specific loop size and can be adjusted based on actual needs, but it must include the transfer loop, locking loop, and yarn-free loop, and be arranged in a logically reasonable sequence.
[0020] In some embodiments, the weft knitting double-sided jacquard machine has one cycle for every 4 routes, the 1st and 5th routes are the loop transfer routes, which perform a yarn-eating and loop-forming action; the 4th and 8th routes are yarn-free routes, the yarn-free loop formation of the 4th route will cause the loop of the 1st route to be unlooped, and the yarn-free loop formation of the 8th route will cause the loop of the 5th route to be unlooped.
[0021] In some embodiments, the weft knitting double-sided jacquard machine has one cycle every 3 routes, the 1st and 4th routes are the circle transfer routes, which perform a yarn eating and circle forming action; the 2nd and 5th routes are the circle locking routes; the 3rd and 6th routes are the yarn-free routes, the yarn-free circle forming on the 3rd route will cause the loop of the 1st route to be unlooped, and the yarn-free circle forming on the 6th route will cause the loop of the 4th route to be unlooped.
[0022] In some embodiments, the back surface is made of shrinkage yarn. The back surface yarn is made of shrinkage yarn with greater shrinkage than ordinary yarn, primarily to tighten the stitches that have been knocked over. If the roots of the stitches that have been knocked over are not sufficiently tightened, not only will the velvet effect be affected, but the service life of the velvet fabric will also be shortened.
[0023] In some embodiments, the backing is made of cationic spandex core-spun yarn or TPEE monofilament. The backing is primarily composed of cationic spandex core-spun yarn, which is used to shrink and lock the base of the loops that are prone to linting. The spandex core-spun yarn is primarily composed of cotton yarn and spandex. The spandex is wrapped with natural, high-quality cotton yarn to create the spandex core-spun yarn. This spandex core-spun yarn exhibits excellent elasticity and durability, as well as good breathability and high moisture absorption.
[0024] TPEE (thermoplastic polyester elastomer) is a block copolymer consisting of polyester hard segments and polyether soft segments. TPEE possesses the elasticity of rubber and the strength of engineering plastics. The soft segments impart elasticity, making it rubber-like, while the hard segments impart processing properties, making it plastic-like. Compared to rubber, it offers better processing properties and a longer service life. Compared to engineering plastics, it shares the same strength with improved flexibility and dynamic mechanical properties.
[0025] In some embodiments, the front surface is made of either regular yarn or highly stretchable DTY. The front portion of the fabric is not restricted and can be selected based on the desired light or dark color scheme. The front surface can be made of either regular yarn or highly stretchable DTY. DTY (Draw Texturing Yarn) is a finished yarn that undergoes continuous or simultaneous stretching on a texturing machine and a twisting process. Highly stretchable DTY yarn offers a superior fleecy feel.
[0026] In a second aspect, the present application provides an application of the weaving process for creating a velvet feel as described in the first aspect to a shoe upper. Adding velvet elements to the shoe upper gives it a more 3D feel, further enhancing the multi-layered feel of the shoe material. It can also be designed to mimic an eco-friendly design, in line with the current trend of eco-friendly fabrics. Functionally, it maintains the visual warmth of velvet while also providing the breathability of knitted fabrics.
[0027] Different from the existing technology, the above technical solution cooperates with the circle transfer path, the circle locking path and the yarn-free path to carry out orderly alternation of circle formation by the yarn mouth of the circle transfer path and circle removal by the yarn mouth of the yarn-free path, and integrates wool balls in multiple cycles to form a fluffy effect, breaking the limitations of raw materials and processing. Different from the previous use of velvet yarn to create a velvet feel and the back-end brushing to create a velvet feel, this solution uses ordinary yarn to achieve the effect of weaving and creating a velvet feel, without the use of velvet yarn, reducing fabric costs, eliminating the loss of manpower and material resources in the back-end brushing process, and effectively saving energy and reducing emissions.
[0028] The above-mentioned records related to the content of the invention are only an overview of the technical solution of this application. In order to enable ordinary technicians in this field to understand the technical solution of this application more clearly, and then implement it according to the text of the specification and the contents recorded in the drawings, and to make the above-mentioned purposes and other purposes, features and advantages of this application easier to understand, the following is an explanation in combination with the specific implementation methods and drawings of this application. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0029] The accompanying drawings are only used to illustrate the principles, implementation methods, applications, characteristics and effects of the specific embodiments of this application and other related contents, and are not to be considered as limiting this application.
[0030] In the drawings of the specification:
[0031] Figure 1 This is a normal knitting needle operation sequence diagram in the prior art;
[0032] Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of a knock-over coil according to an embodiment of the present application;
[0033] Figure 3 This is a computer knitting structure diagram of the velvet-free area according to an embodiment of the present application;
[0034] Figure 4 This is a computer knitting structure diagram of the velvet area described in one embodiment of the present application;
[0035] Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram of the non-plush area and the velvet area according to an embodiment of the present application;
[0036] Figure 6 This is a computer knitting structure diagram of the velvet-free area according to another embodiment of the present application;
[0037] Figure 7 This is a computer knitting structure diagram of the velvet area described in another embodiment of the present application.
[0038] The reference numerals in the above drawings are described as follows:
[0039] 1. Unlooping coil;
[0040] 2. Yarn. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0041] In order to explain in detail the possible application scenarios, technical principles, specific solutions that can be implemented, and the purpose and effects of this application, the following is a detailed description of the specific embodiments listed in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. The embodiments described herein are only used to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of this application and are therefore only examples and are not intended to limit the scope of protection of this application.
[0042] References to "embodiments" herein mean that the specific features, structures, or characteristics described in conjunction with the embodiments may be included in at least one embodiment of the present application. The appearance of the word "embodiment" in various places in the specification does not necessarily refer to the same embodiment, nor does it particularly limit its independence or relevance to other embodiments. In principle, in this application, as long as there are no technical contradictions or conflicts, the various technical features mentioned in the embodiments can be combined in any manner to form a corresponding implementable technical solution.
[0043] Unless otherwise defined, the technical terms used herein have the same meanings as those generally understood by those skilled in the art to which this application belongs; the use of relevant terms herein is only for describing specific embodiments and is not intended to limit this application.
[0044] In the description of this application, the term "and / or" is used to describe a logical relationship between objects, indicating that three relationships can exist. For example, A and / or B means: A exists, B exists, and both A and B exist. In addition, the character " / " in this document generally indicates that the objects before and after are in a logical "or" relationship.
[0045] In this application, terms such as "first" and "second" are merely used to distinguish one entity or operation from another entity or operation, and do not necessarily require or imply any actual quantity, priority or sequence relationship between these entities or operations.
[0046] Without further limitations, in this application, the words "include", "comprise", "have" or other similar expressions used in the sentences are intended to cover non-exclusive inclusion. These expressions do not exclude the presence of additional elements in the process, method or product including the elements, so that the process, method or product including a series of elements may include not only those defined elements, but also other elements not explicitly listed, or elements inherent to such process, method or product.
[0047] Consistent with the understanding in the Examination Guidelines, in this application, expressions such as "greater than," "less than," and "exceed" are understood to exclude the number itself; expressions such as "above," "below," and "within" are understood to include the number itself. Furthermore, in the description of the embodiments of this application, "multiple" means more than two (including two), and similar expressions related to "multiple" are also understood in this manner, such as "multiple groups," "multiple times," etc., unless otherwise specifically defined.
[0048] In the description of the embodiments of the present application, the space-related expressions used, such as "center", "longitudinal", "lateral", "length", "width", "thickness", "up", "down", "front", "back", "left", "right", "vertical", "horizontal", "vertical", "top", "bottom", "inside", "outside", "clockwise", "counterclockwise", "axial", "radial", "circumferential", etc., indicate the orientation or position relationship based on the orientation or position relationship shown in the specific embodiments or drawings, and are only for the convenience of describing the specific embodiments of the present application or facilitating the reader's understanding, and do not indicate or imply that the device or component referred to must have a specific position, a specific orientation, or be constructed or operated in a specific orientation. Therefore, it should not be understood as a limitation on the embodiments of the present application.
[0049] Unless otherwise expressly specified or limited, in the description of the embodiments of the present application, the terms "installed", "connected", "connected", "fixed", "set", etc. used should be understood in a broad sense. For example, the "connection" can be a fixed connection, a detachable connection, or an integrated setting; it can be a mechanical connection, an electrical connection, or a communication connection; it can be a direct connection or an indirect connection through an intermediate medium; it can be the internal connection of two elements or the interaction relationship between two elements. For those skilled in the art of the present application, the specific meanings of the above terms in the embodiments of the present application can be understood according to the specific circumstances.
[0050] Embodiment one:
[0051] Yarn preparation: cationic spandex core-spun yarn on the back, nylon high-elastic DTY and TPEE monofilament on the front.
[0052] The process settings are:
[0053] ①Non-velvet area: such as Figure 3 As shown, each row represents a yarn feeder on the machine, with 4 feeders forming a loop. A small circle above the line represents a loop stitch on the back, and below the line represents a loop stitch on the front. The 4th and 8th feeders are yarn-free feeders, and are represented by a horizontal line in the computer knitting structure diagram because these two feeders are intentionally left without yarn. They do not work when knitting plain weave, so there are no loops.
[0054] Through the design of textile computer jacquard software, the yarn arrangement is set to 4 routes and 1 cycle. A loop transfer work instruction is set in advance at the location where the pile is required, and the knitting loops in this area are moved from the front to the back, so that the fabric surface in this area will be in the state of single-sided fabric.
[0055] ② Velvet feeling area: such as Figure 4 As shown, routes 1 and 5 are transfer routes, primarily interweaving the loops up and down to prepare for stripping. Route 4 is a no-yarn route, with no yarn hanging on the yarn feeder. The sequence is as follows: Route 1 performs a single interweaving looping action, feeding the yarn to form a loop. Route 2 and 3 form loops normally, locking the base of the loop in route 1. Route 4 then performs a needle-out action, but with no yarn, the loop in route 1 is stripped out. This creates a single, upright, independent loop on the fabric. Route 5 repeats the action of route 1, feeding the yarn to form a loop, and route 8 again forms a no-yarn loop, turning it into a stripped loop.
[0056] The effect of the non-velvet area and the velvet area is as follows Figure 5 shown.
[0057] Example 2:
[0058] Yarn preparation: cationic spandex core-spun yarn on the back and ordinary yarn on the front.
[0059] The process settings are:
[0060] ①Non-velvet area: such as Figure 6 As shown, each row represents a yarn feeder on the machine, with 3 feeders forming a loop. A small circle above a straight line represents a back-loop stitch, while a circle below a straight line represents a front-loop stitch. Feeders 1 and 4 are normal yarns, feeders 2 and 5 are shrink yarns, and feeders 3 and 6 do not eat or hang yarn.
[0061] ② Velvet feeling area: such as Figure 7 As shown, the first and fourth routes are the transfer routes, primarily interweaving the loops for the fall-off. The second route locks the base of the loop in route 1, and the third route is the yarn-free route, which removes the loop in route 1, thus forming a single, upright, independent loop on the fabric. The fourth route repeats the action of route 1, forming a loop by yarn feeding. The sixth route, again with no yarn forming, becomes a fall-off loop.
[0062] In a second aspect, this embodiment provides an application of the weaving process for creating a velvety feel as described in the first aspect in the field of shoe uppers.
[0063] A velvet-like fabric is incorporated into the upper, with transparent windows creating a recessed feel, forming a lower layer. A plain weave is used to create the base fabric for the middle layer. A knitting technique, which creates a velvety feel as it's woven, creates a high-rise velvet feel in some areas, giving the upper a more 3D feel and further enhancing the shoe's multi-layered aesthetic. The velvet-like areas can be painted green, complementing the velvet's moss-like, grass-like appearance, in line with the current trend for eco-friendly fabrics. Functionally, this maintains the visual warmth of velvet while also offering the breathability of knitted fabrics.
[0064] Finally, it should be noted that although the above embodiments have been described in the specification and drawings of this application, this does not limit the scope of patent protection of this application. All technical solutions generated by replacing or modifying equivalent structures or equivalent processes based on the essential concepts of this application using the contents recorded in the specification and drawings of this application, as well as directly or indirectly implementing the technical solutions of the above embodiments in other related technical fields, are included in the scope of patent protection of this application.
Claims
1. A weaving process that creates a velvety feel upon weaving, characterized in that: It is woven using a weft-knitted double-sided jacquard machine. The yarn arrangement includes a transfer loop, a lock loop, and a yarn-free loop. The weaving steps include: Loop transfer: moving the set knitting loops from the front to the back of the fabric to make the fabric into a single-sided fabric; Knitting: The empty needle of the transfer loop performs an interweaving looping action, and a loop is hung on the empty needle; Knitting: a yarn feeder without yarn is set on the yarn-free path, and the empty needle of the yarn-free path performs a loop-forming action, so that the loops on the loop transfer path are released from the needle hook, forming independent loops standing upright on the fabric; The transfer loop, locking loop and yarn-free loop are woven in a circular manner; the transfer loop weaves double-sided into single-sided, and performs a yarn-eating and loop-forming action on the transfer loop to form a coil on the transfer loop; the locking loop performs a normal interweaving and loop-forming action to lock the coil on the transfer loop; the yarn-free loop forms no coil, and the empty needle runs to remove the coil on the transfer loop.
2. The weaving process for creating a velvety feel as you weave according to claim 1, characterized in that: The steps also include: Repeat the loop forming and loop knocking steps multiple times to form multiple independent loops on the fabric.
3. The weaving process for creating a velvety feel as soon as it is woven according to claim 1, characterized in that: Before the loop transfer step, a double-sided fabric with connected loops is knitted.
4. The weaving process for creating a velvety feel as the weaving progresses according to claim 1, characterized in that: The weft knitting double-sided jacquard machine has one cycle every 4 routes, the 1st and 5th routes are loop transfer routes, which perform a yarn feeding and loop forming action; the 4th and 8th routes are yarn-free routes, and the loops of the 1st route are removed when the 4th route has no yarn and loops, and the loops of the 5th route are removed when the 8th route has no yarn and loops.
5. The weaving process for creating a velvety feel as you weave according to claim 1, characterized in that: The weft knitting double-sided jacquard machine has one cycle every 3 routes, the 1st and 4th routes are loop transfer routes, which perform a yarn feeding and loop forming action; the 2nd and 5th routes are loop locking routes; the 3rd and 6th routes are yarn-free routes, and the loops of the 1st route are removed when the 3rd route has no yarn and loops, and the loops of the 4th route are removed when the 6th route has no yarn and loops.
6. The knitting process for creating a velvety feel as it is woven according to claim 1, characterized in that: The back surface utilizes shrink yarn.
7. The knitting process for creating a velvety feel by weaving according to claim 6, characterized in that: The back surface adopts core-spun yarn with shrinkage function.
8. The weaving process for creating a velvety feel as you weave according to claim 1, characterized in that: The front side is made of ordinary yarn or high-elastic DTY.
9. Application of the weaving process for creating a velvety feel as described in any one of claims 1 to 8 in the field of shoe uppers.
Citation Information
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