A multi-emulsified moisturizing repairing cream and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The present invention provides a multi-emulsified moisturizing repair cream and a preparation method thereof, wherein the moisturizing repair cream comprises the following components: a skin barrier repair agent, a moisturizer, an emollient, and an emulsifier, wherein the emulsifier is a combination of sucrose polystearate, cetyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, and PEG-100 stearate, wherein the total weight fractions of the sucrose polystearate and cetyl palmitate are a, and the total weight fractions of the glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate are b, and then a:b is (5-7):1. The preparation method used in the moisturizing repair cream of the present invention is a one-step emulsification method, which saves time and labor, and the moisturizer is simultaneously present in the innermost aqueous phase and the outermost aqueous phase, and the moisturizing ability of the material body can be greatly improved, and both the refreshing skin feeling of the O / W system and the moisturizing effect of the W / O system are available. On the basis of effectively ensuring the moisture content of the skin, the skin barrier can be effectively repaired, and skin problems such as redness and sensitivity can be alleviated.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a multi-emulsified moisturizing and repairing cream and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] With the rapid economic development and the great improvement of living standards, consumers have higher and higher requirements for personal care products. They are no longer satisfied with daily basic skin care needs. They have higher requirements for product efficacy and require products to have a good skin feel.

[0003] There are many reasons for impaired skin barrier function. Apart from genetic factors, the main reasons are as follows: improper long-term skin care and excessive cleaning; unprofessional cosmetic treatments; long-term or irregular use of topical glucocorticoids; improper care after facial peels, lasers, and minimally invasive treatments, etc., which cause impaired skin barrier function; excessive exposure to ultraviolet rays or allergies to ultraviolet rays. When the skin barrier is damaged, the skin's own defense ability is insufficient, leading to skin sensitivity, aging, dryness, and desquamation. At the same time, a variety of allergens pass through the skin's defense line, leading to the appearance of skin problems such as eczema, atopic dermatitis, and pruritus. To restore the skin's barrier function, the most important thing is to repair the lipid structure, and the composition of lipids is ceramide, cholesterol, and free fatty acids.

[0004] The hydration status of the skin is also very important for the repair of the barrier. Skin moisturizing care must be performed to keep the skin hydrated at all times. Moisturizing preparations are an important component of basic skin care for many skin diseases caused by damage to the stratum corneum permeability barrier due to different factors, which leads to increased skin water loss and reduced stratum corneum water content. Proper moisturizing preparations can help the stratum corneum to repair itself. It will keep the water content higher than the level required to maintain the physiological stratum corneum enzyme function, accelerate the repair of the stratum corneum permeability barrier, and thus maintain the integrity of the stratum corneum permeability barrier structure and function.

[0005] Traditionally, widely used emulsions are oil-in-water (O / W) and water-in-oil (W / O) two-phase emulsions. Currently, most personal care products on the market are classified into O / W type and a few are W / O type based on the formulation system. W / O emulsions have a glossy appearance and good moisturizing and emollient effects, but because the external phase is an oil phase, the emulsion is prone to stickiness and poor skin feel when applied; while O / W emulsions have good spreadability and a refreshing skin feel, but their moisturizing and emollient effects are not as good as those of W / O emulsions. W / O / W multiphase emulsions have the advantages of both emulsions. Because the external phase is a water phase, it has a good feel and excellent spreadability; and some W / O droplets after spreading give the product good emollient properties.

[0006] CN114588075A discloses a W / O / W coated moisturizing lotion, a preparation method and application thereof, wherein raw materials such as acrylic acid (ester) / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer and ethyl cellulose are added to the external water phase, thereby improving the stability of the internal oil phase oil-in-water emulsion, improving the stability of the water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, and reducing the particle size of the emulsion droplets. The emulsion prepared by the method also has an excellent moisturizing effect.

[0007] CN1448120A discloses a W / O / W type multiphase emulsion with excellent stability over time, a W / O / W type multiphase emulsion with excellent stability, safety and usability without surfactant. A W / O type emulsion containing one or more oils selected from fatty acids and higher alcohols, one or more polymers soluble in the above oils, and one or more compounds selected from inorganic acid salts, organic acid salts, amino acids and their salts is contained in the water phase.

[0008] CN101547685A discloses a W / O / W composite emulsion composition consisting of an inner water phase, an oil phase and an outer water phase, wherein the inner water phase contains an ionic physiologically active substance and a physiologically acceptable compound having a molecular weight of 1000 or less and producing a divalent or more multivalent counter ion for the ionic physiologically active substance. The W / O / W emulsion composition can not only stably encapsulate useful substances in its inner water phase with a high encapsulation rate, but also has high safety.

[0009] At present, most skin repair products on the market only focus on one of the following: repair of skin stratum corneum lipids, repair of traumatic wounds, and soothing and repair of sensitive, red and inflamed skin. Few products for comprehensive repair appear. In the prior art, the process of multiple emulsification system is mainly based on the two-step method. To prepare W / O / W multiphase emulsion, it is necessary to first prepare W / O emulsion material, and then emulsify and wrap the W / O emulsion material with another layer of water phase. The process is complicated and time-consuming.

[0010] Therefore, developing a multi-emulsified repair cream that can effectively repair the skin barrier, alleviate skin problems such as redness, and has a simple preparation process and short time consumption is a research focus in this field. Summary of the invention

[0011] In view of the deficiencies in the prior art, the purpose of the present invention is to provide a multi-emulsified moisturizing repair cream and a preparation method thereof, which can effectively repair the skin barrier, alleviate skin problems such as redness, sensitivity, and dryness, and has a simple preparation process and a short time consumption.

[0012] In order to achieve the purpose of the invention, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:

[0013] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a multi-emulsified moisturizing and repairing cream, wherein the moisturizing and repairing cream comprises the following components in parts by weight:

[0014]

[0015] The emulsifier includes a combination of sucrose polystearate, cetyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate;

[0016] The total weight fraction of the sucrose polystearate and cetyl palmitate is a, the total weight fraction of the glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate is b, and a:b is (5-7):1.

[0017] The multiple emulsified moisturizing repair cream provided by the present invention is moisturizing but not greasy, can keep the skin moisturized, and adds a skin barrier repair agent to effectively repair the skin barrier, relieve redness, sensitive skin problems, etc.; the present invention adopts the main emulsifier sucrose polystearate and cetyl palmitate of non-ionic surfactant type, and the hydration degree of its hydrophilic group decreases with the increase of temperature, the hydrophilicity decreases, and its hydrophilic-lipophilic balance value (HLB value) also decreases. It is easy to form a W / O emulsion at high temperature, and as the temperature decreases at any time, its hydrophilicity increases, the HLB value also increases, and the emulsion begins to change phases, which is conducive to the formation of a W / O / W emulsion. Adding an appropriate amount of auxiliary emulsifiers with stronger affinity, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, can help the material body to change phases from the W / O state to the W / O / W state in time after cooling. Note that the amount of auxiliary emulsifier should not be excessive, otherwise it is difficult for the material body to form a W / O emulsion at high temperature.

[0018] Preferably, the total weight of the sucrose polystearate and cetyl palmitate is a, and the total weight of the glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate is b, then a:b is (5-7):1, for example, it can be 5.5:1, 6:1 or 6.5:1, etc.

[0019] The skin barrier repair agent is 1.5-13 parts, for example, 2 parts, 4 parts, 6 parts, 8 parts, 10 parts, 12 parts, etc.

[0020] The moisturizing agent is 6-16 parts, for example, 8 parts, 10 parts, 12 parts or 14 parts.

[0021] The emollient is present in an amount of 10-24 parts, for example, 12 parts, 15 parts, 18 parts or 20 parts.

[0022] The emulsifier is 2-6 parts, for example, 3 parts, 4 parts or 5 parts.

[0023] Preferably, the skin barrier repair agent comprises any one of ceramide 3 liposomes, phytosterol esters, madecassoside or panthenol, or a combination of at least two thereof.

[0024] Preferably, the skin barrier repair agent is a combination of ceramide 3 liposomes, phytosterol esters, madecassoside and panthenol.

[0025] Preferably, the skin barrier repair agent comprises, by weight, 0.5-5 parts of ceramide 3 liposomes, for example, 0.6 parts, 1 parts, 2 parts, 3 parts or 4 parts, etc., 0.2-1 parts of phytosterol esters, for example, 0.3 parts, 0.5 parts, 0.8 parts or 0.9 parts, etc., 0.2-2 parts of madecassoside, for example, 0.3 parts, 0.5 parts, 0.8 parts, 1 parts, 1.2 parts, 1.4 parts, 1.6 parts, 1.8 parts, etc., and 1-5 parts of panthenol, for example, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 3 parts or 4 parts, etc.

[0026] The skin barrier repair agent added in the present invention includes ceramide 3 liposome, phytosterol ester, madecassoside and panthenol. The four substances act synergistically to effectively increase the repair effect of the moisturizing repair cream.

[0027] Ceramide 3 liposomes include ceramide NP, cholesterol, hydrogenated lecithin, glycerol, water, and octyldodecanol. First of all, ceramide is a type of lipid molecule formed by the covalent bonding of a sphingosine chain and a fatty acid chain. It exists in large quantities in the cell membrane and the stratum corneum of the skin, accounting for about 40% of the lipids in the stratum corneum of the skin. And as the main component of the intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum of the skin, ceramide is not only of great significance to the formation process of the epidermal stratum corneum, but also plays an important role as a second messenger molecule in the physiological pathway of sphingomyelin, and has the functions of maintaining the skin barrier, moisturizing, anti-aging, whitening and disease treatment.

[0028] Phytosterol esters (phytosterol oleate, β-sitosterol): Phytosterols are a class of substances with a chemical structure similar to that of cholesterol. They can play a similar functional role to cholesterol. They are a class of active ingredients synthesized by plant tissues themselves and usually exist in plant essential oils and fats in the form of unsaponifiable substances. Phytosterol esters are made by esterification or transesterification of phytosterols and fatty acids. They can contain the physiological functions of phytosterols and effectively overcome the shortcoming of limited solubility of phytosterols in oil, which can improve bioavailability.

[0029] Madecassoside is one of the effective components of Centella asiatica, a plant of the Umbelliferae family. It belongs to the triterpenoid saponin class and has a wide range of biological activities. It can promote wound healing, repair scars, and has antibacterial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, as well as promote fibroblast regeneration and other pharmacological effects. The regulation of the TGF-β / Smad pathway (TGF-β is transforming growth factor) plays a key role in wound healing. Madecassoside can downregulate the expression of TGF-β and promote wound healing by increasing the expression of Smad7, thereby repairing skin barrier damage. Madecassoside can inhibit the skin inflammatory response caused by the proinflammatory cytokine IL-1β (interleukin). It can also downregulate the expression of neuroinflammatory genes and proteins, and upregulate the level of the neuroinflammatory component HO-1, which can effectively combat the body's oxidative stress and inflammation, and is considered to be a natural and effective alternative for the treatment of neuroinflammation.

[0030] Panthenol is a derivative of vitamin B5, also known as provitamin B5. Panthenol has the functions of hygroscopicity and water retention, while promoting lipid synthesis, increasing the fluidity of lipid molecules and keratin filaments, improving the rigid environment between stratum corneum cells, and helping to maintain a healthy skin barrier function. The soothing effect of panthenol mainly comes from two aspects. On the one hand, panthenol can protect against oxidative stress damage. Cells will produce reactive oxygen free radicals under the action of internal and external stress factors. When the cells are unable to scavenge free radicals, the accumulated free radicals will have an adverse effect on skin health and aging. Panthenol can reduce the production of reactive oxygen free radicals in skin cells, while upregulating the skin's own antioxidant mechanism, including inducing skin cells to express more antioxidant factors-heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1), thereby improving the skin's antioxidant capacity. On the other hand, panthenol can reduce inflammatory responses. After panthenol treatment, it can inhibit the release of inflammatory factors, thereby reducing inflammatory responses and soothing the skin. At the same time, after the laser-damaged model was treated with panthenol, the expression of keratinocyte proliferation markers increased, indicating that more keratinocytes entered a proliferative state, promoting epidermal regeneration. At the same time, the expression of filaggrin, an important marker of keratinocyte differentiation and barrier function, also increased, indicating that panthenol has the effect of promoting the repair of the skin barrier.

[0031] Preferably, the moisturizing repair cream also includes 40-80 parts of water, for example, 45 parts, 50 parts, 60 parts, 70 parts or 75 parts.

[0032] Preferably, the water is deionized water.

[0033] Preferably, the moisturizing agent comprises any one of trehalose, hyaluronic acid, glycerol or butylene glycol, or a combination of at least two thereof.

[0034] Preferably, the moisturizing agent is a combination of trehalose, hyaluronic acid, glycerin and butylene glycol.

[0035] Preferably, the moisturizing agent includes 2-5 parts of trehalose, for example, 2.5 parts, 3 parts or 4 parts, etc., 0.03-0.2 parts of hyaluronic acid, for example, 0.05 parts, 0.01 parts, 0.15 parts, etc., 1-4 parts of glycerol, for example, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 2.5 parts, 3 parts, 3.5 parts, etc., and 3-6 parts of butylene glycol, for example, 3.5 parts, 4 parts, 4.5 parts, 5 parts, 5.5 parts, etc.

[0036] Other specific point values ​​within the above numerical ranges can be selected and will not be described in detail here.

[0037] Hyaluronic acid: Hyaluronic acid (HA) is an acidic mucopolysaccharide that has multiple physiological functions such as regulating protein, electrolyte diffusion and movement, and promoting wound healing, and has high clinical value. Hyaluronic acid has a protective effect on the skin, and its high moisturizing properties can keep the skin moisturized and smooth, and restore the physiological functions of the skin. Hyaluronic acid plays a role in regulating various biological processes and maintaining dynamic balance in the body. It has shown significant therapeutic effects in skin repair and the treatment of various inflammatory skin diseases.

[0038] Preferably, the emollient comprises any one of camellia seed oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, shea butter esters, triethylhexanoin, or isononyl isononanoate, or a combination of at least two thereof.

[0039] Preferably, the emollient is a combination of camellia seed oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, shea butter esters, triethylhexanoin, and isononyl isononanoate.

[0040] Preferably, the emollient includes, by weight, 1-5 parts of camellia oil, for example, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 3 parts or 4 parts, etc., 1-3 parts of argania spinosa kernel oil, for example, 1.5 parts, 2 parts or 2.5 parts, etc., 1-3 parts of squalane, for example, 1.5 parts, 2 parts or 2.5 parts, etc., 0.5-2 parts of tocopherol acetate, for example, 0.8 parts, 1 part or 1.5 parts, etc., 2-5 parts of avocado esters, for example, 2.5 parts, 3 parts or 3.5 parts, etc., 2-5 parts of triethylhexanoin, for example, 2.5 parts, 3 parts or 3.5 parts, etc., and 1-3 parts of isononyl isononanoate, for example, 1.5 parts, 2 parts or 2.5 parts, etc.

[0041] Other specific point values ​​within the above numerical ranges can be selected and will not be described in detail here.

[0042] Squalane: Squalane has a certain similarity in structure to squalene in human sebum. It is a hydrogenated product of squalene and can be integrated with the sebum membrane after use, which has a good repair effect on the damage to the stratum corneum. Squalane can improve adverse skin symptoms such as thinning skin and sensitive skin, and relieve symptoms such as redness and itching of the skin. Squalane has a good effect on promoting cell metabolism and can play a good role in repairing the barrier function of the skin.

[0043] Camellia (CAMELLIA JAPONICA) seed oil: It is a high-grade natural woody edible oil, rich in tea saponin, vitamin E, squalene, tea polyphenols, flavonoids and other active ingredients, with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and drug percutaneous absorption promoting effects. Camellia seed oil has good affinity with the skin, among which tea saponin has strong antioxidant and hydroxyl free scavenging ability, can delay skin aging, and is a good protective agent and wetting agent for the skin barrier. Camellia seed oil is a glyceride mainly containing oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitic acid and other fatty acids. After transdermal absorption, it is metabolized in the body to produce free fatty acids such as oleic acid and linoleic acid, providing physiological fatty acids for skin barrier repair.

[0044] Preferably, the emulsifier includes 2-4 parts of sucrose polystearate in parts by weight, for example, 1.5 parts, 2 parts, 2.5 parts, 3 parts, 3.5 parts, etc., 1-3 parts of cetyl palmitate, for example, 1.5 parts, 2 parts or 2.5 parts, etc., 0.1-0.5 parts of glyceryl stearate, for example, 0.2 parts, 0.3 parts or 0.4 parts, etc., 0.1-0.5 parts of PEG-100 stearate, for example, 0.2 parts, 0.3 parts or 0.4 parts, etc.

[0045] Other specific point values ​​within the above numerical ranges can be selected and will not be described in detail here.

[0046] Preferably, the moisturizing repair cream further comprises a thickener.

[0047] Preferably, the thickener is 0.2-0.7 parts, for example, 0.3 parts, 0.4 parts, 0.5 parts or 0.6 parts.

[0048] Preferably, the thickener comprises carbomer and / or xanthan gum.

[0049] Preferably, the thickener is a combination of carbomer and xanthan gum.

[0050] Preferably, the thickener comprises, by weight, 0.2-0.5 parts of carbomer, such as 0.25 parts, 0.3 parts or 0.4 parts, and 0.03-0.2 parts of xanthan gum, such as 0.05 parts, 0.1 parts or 0.15 parts, etc.

[0051] Preferably, the moisturizing repair cream further comprises a pH neutralizer.

[0052] Preferably, the pH neutralizer is 0.05-0.25 parts, for example, it can be 0.1 parts, 0.15 parts or 0.2 parts.

[0053] Preferably, the pH neutralizer is aminomethyl propanol.

[0054] Preferably, the moisturizing repair cream also includes an antibacterial agent.

[0055] Preferably, the antibacterial agent is 1-2 parts, for example, it can be 1.3 parts, 1.5 parts or 1.8 parts.

[0056] Preferably, the antibacterial agent comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone and / or 1,2-hexanediol.

[0057] Preferably, the antibacterial agent is a combination of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1,2-hexanediol.

[0058] Preferably, the antibacterial agent comprises 0.2-0.8 parts of p-hydroxyacetophenone, such as 0.3 parts, 0.5 parts or 0.7 parts, and 0.3-0.8 parts of 1,2-hexanediol, such as 0.4 parts, 0.5 parts or 0.7 parts, by weight.

[0059] Other specific point values ​​within the above numerical ranges can be selected and will not be described in detail here.

[0060] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing the moisturizing repair cream as provided in the first aspect, the preparation method comprising: uniformly mixing the skin barrier repair agent, moisturizer, emollient, emulsifier, thickener, pH neutralizer, antibacterial agent and water to obtain the moisturizing repair cream.

[0061] Preferably, the preparation method comprises:

[0062] (1) mixing the thickener, humectant and water, heating and stirring to obtain an aqueous phase component;

[0063] The emulsifier and the emollient are mixed, heated and stirred to obtain an oil phase component;

[0064] (2) mixing the water phase component and the oil phase component, and performing a first homogenizing stirring to obtain a water-in-oil material;

[0065] (3) The water-in-oil material is mixed with a pH neutralizer, a skin barrier repair agent, and an antibacterial agent to obtain a mixture, and the mixture is subjected to a second homogenizing stirring to obtain the moisturizing repair cream.

[0066] Preferably, the heating and stirring temperature is 75-80°C, for example, 76°C, 77°C or 78°C.

[0067] Preferably, the temperature of the heating and stirring is 70-75°C, for example, 72°C, 73°C or 74°C.

[0068] Preferably, the temperature of the first homogenizing stirring is 63-68°C, for example, 64°C, 65°C or 66°C.

[0069] Preferably, the temperature of the second homogenizing stirring is 20-40°C, for example, 25°C, 30°C or 35°C.

[0070] Preferably, the second homogenizing and stirring further includes a vacuum defoaming step.

[0071] Other specific point values ​​within the above numerical ranges can be selected and will not be described in detail here.

[0072] The preparation method used in the present invention is a one-step emulsification method, which utilizes a non-ionic surfactant type primary emulsifier, the hydration degree of its hydrophilic group decreases with increasing temperature, the hydrophilicity decreases, and its hydrophilic-lipophilic balance value (HLB value) also decreases. It is easy to form a W / O emulsion at high temperature, and as the temperature decreases, its hydrophilicity increases, the HLB value also increases, and the emulsion begins to change phases to form a W / O / W emulsion. Adding an appropriate amount of a secondary emulsifier with stronger affinity can help the material body to change phases from the W / O state to the W / O / W state in time after cooling. The one-step emulsification method saves time and effort and is easily converted to large-scale production. The material body in the W / O / W state, due to the special internal phase structure, the friction of the internal phase liquid droplets is enhanced, and the viscosity also increases accordingly, and a less amount of thickener can be used to form a frosty state. In the final W / O / W material, the moisturizer exists in both the innermost water phase and the outermost water phase. The moisturizer dissolved in the innermost water phase has a sustained release effect during use, which can significantly enhance the moisturizing ability of the material. It has both the refreshing skin feeling of the O / W system and the moisturizing effect of W / O.

[0073] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0074] The preparation method of the moisturizing repair cream of the present invention is a one-step emulsification method, which is time-saving and labor-saving. The formed W / O / W material body has a moisturizer that exists in the innermost water phase and the outermost water phase at the same time. The moisturizer dissolved in the innermost water phase has a sustained release effect during use, which can significantly improve the moisturizing ability of the material body, and has both the refreshing skin feeling of the O / W system and the moisturizing effect of the W / O system.

[0075] While ensuring that the skin has sufficient moisture content, the ceramide 3 liposomes, phytosterol esters, madecassoside and panthenol in the multiple emulsified moisturizing and repairing cream provided by the present invention work synergistically to effectively increase the skin care and repairing efficacy of the moisturizing and repairing cream. On the basis of moisturizing, it can effectively repair the skin barrier and relieve skin problems such as redness and sensitivity. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0076] The technical solution of the present invention is further described below by specific implementation methods. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that the embodiments are only to help understand the present invention and should not be regarded as specific limitations of the present invention.

[0077] As used herein, the terms "comprises," "including," "having," "containing," or any other variation thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion. For example, a composition, process, method, article, or apparatus that comprises the listed elements is not necessarily limited to only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such composition, process, method, article, or apparatus.

[0078] "Optional" or "any one" means that the subsequently described matter or event can or cannot occur, and that the description includes instances where the event occurs and instances where it does not.

[0079] The indefinite articles "a" and "an" before the elements or components of the present invention have no limitation on the quantity requirements (i.e. the number of occurrences) of the elements or components. Therefore, "a" or "an" should be interpreted as including one or at least one, and the elements or components in the singular form also include the plural form, unless the quantity obviously refers to the singular form only.

[0080] The terms "one embodiment", "some embodiments", "exemplarily", "specific examples" or "some examples" described in the present invention mean that the specific features, structures, materials or characteristics described in conjunction with the embodiment or example are included in at least one embodiment or example of the present invention. In this document, the schematic representation of the above terms does not necessarily refer to the same embodiment or example.

[0081] The sources of reagents or instruments in the following examples are as follows:

[0082] The mass ratio of sucrose polystearate to cetyl palmitate was 88:12, purchased from BASF, Germany, with the trade name Emulgade Sucro Plus;

[0083] The mass ratio of glyceryl stearate to PEG-100 stearate is 60:40, and they were purchased from Seppic, France, with the trade name SIMULSOL 165.

[0084] Camellia japonica seed oil, purchased from Guangzhou Hengtuo Company, trade name Camellia japonica seed oil HT-1128;

[0085] Argania spinosa kernel oil, purchased from DSM of the Netherlands, trade name ARGAN OIL;

[0086] Tocopheryl acetate, purchased from DSM of the Netherlands, trade name DL-alpha-Tocopheryl Acetate;

[0087] Squalane, purchased from Kishimoto Co., Ltd., Japan, with the trade name Squalane;

[0088] Glyceryl tri(ethylhexanoate), purchased from Nissin Oillio Co., Ltd., Japan, trade name TIO;

[0089] Isononyl isononanoate, purchased from Nissin Oillio Co., Ltd., Japan, with the trade name Hicos ININ;

[0090] Avocado tree (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit butter, purchased from Zea Chemicals, USA, trade name SheaButter;

[0091] Phytosterol esters, including phytosteryl oleate and β-sitosterol, purchased from Vitae Naturals, Spain, with the trade name Vitasterol S-80 Esterified-PS;

[0092] Carbomer, purchased from Lubrizol Corporation of the United States, with the trade name Carbopol 980 Polymer;

[0093] Sodium hyaluronate was purchased from Dongying First Biological Company under the trade name Sodium hyaluronate;

[0094] Xanthan gum was purchased from Cosphatec, Germany, under the trade name X 34;

[0095] Trehalose, purchased from HAYASHIBARA, Japan, trade name Trehalose 100;

[0096] Butanediol, purchased from Five Star Chemical Co., Ltd. of South Korea, trade name 1,3-butanediol;

[0097] Glycerin, purchased from Procter & Gamble Malaysia under the trade name MOON K GLYCERIN;

[0098] Aminomethyl propanol, purchased from Angus, Germany, trade name AMP-ULTRATM PC 2000;

[0099] Madecassoside, purchased from Givaudan, Switzerland, trade name MADECASSOSIDE 95%;

[0100] Panthenol, purchased from DSM of the Netherlands, trade name D-Panthenol;

[0101] p-Hydroxyacetophenone, purchased from Symrise, Germany, with the trade name SymSave H;

[0102] 1,2-Hexanediol was purchased from Symrise, Germany, under the trade name 6O;

[0103] Ceramide 3 liposomes, comprising ceramide NP, cholesterol, hydrogenated lecithin, glycerol, water and octyldodecanol, were purchased from Shanghai Ruxi Biological Company under the trade name Ceramide 3 liposomes.

[0104] Sucrose polystearate, purchased from Guangzhou Heji Biotechnology Co., Ltd., trade name HJ SC-1803;

[0105] Cetyl palmitate, purchased from Croda, UK, trade name Crodamol TM CP;

[0106] Glyceryl stearate, purchased from BASF, Germany, with the trade name Cutina GMS V;

[0107] PEG-100 stearate was purchased from Wuhan Xinxin Jiali Company with the trade name MYRJ 59.

[0108] Example 1

[0109] This embodiment provides a moisturizing repair cream, the components and dosage of the moisturizing repair cream are shown in Table 1, the dosage unit of each component in the table is "portion", and the total amount of raw material components of the moisturizing repair cream is 100g.

[0110] Preparation method: (1) mixing the thickener, humectant and deionized water in a water phase pot, heating and stirring at 80° C. to completely dissolve, thereby obtaining a water phase component;

[0111] The emulsifier and the emollient are mixed in an oil phase pot, heated to 75° C. and stirred until they are uniformly dissolved to obtain an oil phase component;

[0112] (2) mixing the water phase component and the oil phase component in an emulsifying pot, and performing a first homogenizing stirring at 65° C. for 0.25 h to obtain a water-in-oil material;

[0113] (3) The water-in-oil material and the pH neutralizer are mixed and stirred evenly in an emulsifier, and the temperature is continuously lowered by 35° C. The consistency of the material in the emulsifier decreases, and the phase transition begins. The appearance becomes delicate, and a skin barrier repair agent and an antibacterial agent are added to obtain a mixture. The mixture is homogenized and stirred for a second time at room temperature for 0.2 h, and vacuum defoamed to obtain the moisturizing repair cream.

[0114] Embodiment 2-4

[0115] This embodiment provides a moisturizing repair cream, the components and dosage of the moisturizing repair cream are shown in Table 1, the dosage unit of each component in the table is "portion", and the total amount of raw material components of the moisturizing repair cream is 100g.

[0116] Preparation method: The moisturizing repair cream is obtained in the same manner as the preparation method in Example 1.

[0117] Table 1

[0118]

[0119] Comparative Examples 1-4

[0120] This comparative example provides a moisturizing repair cream. The components and dosage of the moisturizing repair cream are shown in Table 2. The dosage unit of each component in the table is "portion", and the total amount of raw material components of the moisturizing repair cream is 100g.

[0121] Preparation method: The moisturizing repair cream is obtained in the same manner as the preparation method in Example 1.

[0122] Table 2

[0123]

[0124] Comparative Example 5

[0125] This comparative example provides a moisturizing repair cream, the components and amounts of which differ from those of Example 1 only in that sucrose polystearate (and) cetyl palmitate are replaced with an equal amount of sucrose polystearate;

[0126] Preparation method: The moisturizing repair cream is obtained in the same manner as the preparation method in Example 1.

[0127] Comparative Example 6

[0128] This comparative example provides a moisturizing repair cream, the components and amounts of which differ from those of Example 1 only in that sucrose polystearate (and) cetyl palmitate are replaced with an equal amount of cetyl palmitate;

[0129] Preparation method: The moisturizing repair cream is obtained in the same manner as the preparation method in Example 1.

[0130] Comparative Example 7

[0131] This comparative example provides a moisturizing repair cream, the components and amounts of which differ from those of Example 1 only in that glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate are replaced with an equal amount of glyceryl stearate;

[0132] Preparation method: The moisturizing repair cream is obtained in the same manner as the preparation method in Example 1.

[0133] Comparative Example 8

[0134] This comparative example provides a moisturizing repair cream, the components and amounts of which differ from those of Example 1 only in that glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate are replaced with an equal amount of PEG-100 stearate;

[0135] Preparation method: The moisturizing repair cream is obtained in the same manner as the preparation method in Example 1.

[0136] Test Example 1

[0137] The first homogenization and stirring state of the liquid, the second homogenization and stirring state of the liquid, and the final state of the liquid were recorded during the preparation of the moisturizing and repairing creams of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-8. The results are shown in Table 3:

[0138] Table 3

[0139] sample First homogenization mixing Second homogenization Final material Example 1 Material viscosity Smooth and fine material W / O / W multiphase emulsion, cream Example 2 Material viscosity Smooth and fine material W / O / W multiphase emulsion, cream Example 3 Material viscosity Smooth and fine material W / O / W multiphase emulsion, cream Example 4 Material viscosity Smooth and fine material W / O / W multiphase emulsion, cream Comparative Example 1 The material is very sticky and rough The material is very sticky and rough W / O type emulsion, tofu residue Comparative Example 2 The material is very thin, smooth and delicate The material is very thin, smooth and delicate O / W emulsion, emulsion Comparative Example 3 The material is sticky and rough The material is sticky and rough W / O type emulsion, tofu residue Comparative Example 4 The material is very thin, smooth and delicate The material is thinner, smooth and delicate O / W emulsion, creamy Comparative Example 5 The material is sticky and rough The material is sticky and rough W / O type emulsion, tofu residue Comparative Example 6 The material is very thin, with oil floating on the surface The material is thin and the surface is oily Not emulsified, stratified liquid Comparative Example 7 The material is very sticky and rough The material is very sticky and rough W / O type emulsion, tofu residue Comparative Example 8 The material is very thin, smooth and delicate The material is thinner, smooth and delicate O / W emulsion, creamy

[0140] According to the data in the table, in Examples 1-4, the first homogenized material is W / O, and the second homogenized phase transition after the temperature drops is a W / O / W emulsion; in Comparative Example 1, no auxiliary emulsifier is added, and the first homogenized material is an incomplete W / O emulsion, the material is rough, and due to the absence of a more hydrophilic emulsifier, it is difficult to smoothly transition back after the temperature drops, and it has always been a very rough W / O state with a poor emulsification effect; in Comparative Example 2, only a more hydrophilic auxiliary emulsifier is added, and the first homogenized material is already an O / O emulsion. W emulsion, the second homogenization after the temperature drops, no phase transition, still O / W emulsion, the friction force in the emulsion beads is not high enough, resulting in a thin overall consistency of the material, which is more like an emulsion in state; the first homogenized material in Comparative Example 3 is an incomplete W / O emulsion, the material is relatively rough, and due to the low proportion of auxiliary emulsifiers, it cannot smoothly transition to form a fine material after the temperature drops; the proportion of the auxiliary emulsifier with strong hydrophilicity in Comparative Example 4 is high, and an O / W emulsion is directly formed, without a phase transition process, and the material state is thin, forming a cream. Therefore, when the one-step method provided by the present invention is used to prepare W / O / W moisturizing repair cream, when the ratio of the total amount of sucrose polystearate and cetyl palmitate to the total amount of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate is close to 6:1, the emulsification effect is optimal. When any one of sucrose polystearate, cetyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, and PEG-100 stearate is missing, the overall HLB value of the emulsification system shifts and ultimately a W / O / W emulsion cannot be formed.

[0141] Test Example 2

[0142] Moisturizing performance test

[0143] Test instrument: Corneometer CM 825 capacitive skin moisture meter;

[0144] Test site: inner forearm area of ​​both hands;

[0145] Test sample: moisturizing repair cream prepared in Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-8;

[0146] Test method: According to the "Guidelines for Evaluation of Moisturizing Efficacy of Cosmetics (QB / T 4256-2011)", 5 subjects who meet the test conditions are selected for each sample to participate in the test. The test is carried out under the same test conditions, with an ambient temperature of 20-22°C and a humidity of 40-60%. Before the test, the subjects are uniformly wiped clean with dry facial tissue by the staff and the inner forearms of both hands are measured. The measurement area is marked on the inner side of the subject's forearm. The test area is 3cm×3cm. Multiple areas can be marked on the same arm, with a spacing of 2cm between each area. Before the formal test, you need to sit quietly in a constant temperature and humidity room for thirty minutes. Test the initial value of the moisture content of the skin stratum corneum; press (2.0±0.1)mg / cm 2The sample was applied to the test area and massaged until it was completely absorbed. After 60 minutes, the skin moisture content of the area was tested using a skin moisture content test probe, which was the skin moisture content at 60 minutes. After that, the moisture content of the stratum corneum was tested at 180 minutes after use. The moisture content measured at the corresponding time of the subject was subtracted from the initial moisture content value to obtain the moisture content increase value. The average value of the moisture content increase value was calculated. The test results are shown in Table 4.

[0147] Table 4

[0148]

[0149] It can be seen from the data in Table 4 that the moisture content of the stratum corneum skin increases to a certain extent after applying the materials of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-8, and the values ​​of the Examples are significantly higher than those of the Comparative Examples. The moisturizing performance of the materials in the form of a fine and complete W / O / W emulsion is better than that of the materials in the form of a fine and complete O / W emulsion, and the moisturizing performance of the materials in the form of an unformed W / O emulsion is worse. In the W / O / W multiple emulsion system, the moisturizer is present in both the innermost aqueous phase and the outermost aqueous phase. The moisturizer dissolved in the innermost aqueous phase has a sustained release effect during use, which can significantly improve the moisturizing ability of the material.

[0150] Test Example 3

[0151] Repair effect test

[0152] Within a certain range, the higher the moisture content of the stratum corneum, the more perfect the skin's moisturizing ability and the more normal its physiological function. The higher the transepidermal water loss rate, the worse the water retention capacity of the stratum corneum and the lower the skin barrier function. On the contrary, the lower the transepidermal water loss rate, the better the skin barrier function and the better the repair effect of the corresponding product. The smaller the hemoglobin index EI value, the lower the skin hemoglobin content, which means the skin redness is less obvious.

[0153] Test items and instruments:

[0154] Stratum corneum moisture content test: Corneometer CM 825 capacitance skin moisture meter;

[0155] Transepidermal water loss TEWL test: Deflin VapoMeter transepidermal water loss meter;

[0156] Hemoglobin content test: Mexameter MX18 melanin hemoglobin tester;

[0157] Test site: Cheek area on one side;

[0158] Test sample: moisturizing repair cream prepared in Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-8;

[0159] Purpose of the test: The subjects use the above moisturizing repair cream on their faces for 28 consecutive days under normal conditions, and the repair ability of the prepared different moisturizing repair creams is compared by measuring the average values ​​of the changes in stratum corneum moisture content, transepidermal water loss, and hemoglobin content.

[0160] Test methods and steps: According to T / CAB 0152-2022 "Test methods for seven effects of cosmetics: anti-wrinkle, firming, moisturizing, oil control, repair, nourishing, and soothing", 5 subjects who meet the test conditions are selected for each sample to participate in the test, and the test is carried out under the same test conditions. Before the test, the subjects are required to clean their faces with cleaning products in the laboratory. Rest for 30 minutes in an environment with a test temperature of 20-22°C and a humidity of 40-60%, and test and record the initial stratum corneum moisture content (D0), initial transepidermal water loss value (D0), and initial hemoglobin EI value (D0). After explaining the sample usage method to the subjects, the subjects will take the samples to be tested back for use. After cleansing in the morning and evening, take an appropriate amount (peanut size, about 1.5g) of the sample and evenly apply it to the facial skin, and gently massage until absorbed. After using the product for 14 days, the subjects need to use cleaning products to clean their faces in the laboratory. After resting for 30 minutes in an environment with a test temperature of 20-22°C and a humidity of 40-60%, the moisture content of the stratum corneum (D 14 ), 14-day transepidermal water loss (D 14 ), 14-day hemoglobin EI value (D 14 ) test and record. After using the product for 28 days, the subjects were required to clean their faces with a cleaning product in the laboratory. They rested for 30 minutes in an environment with a test temperature of 20-22°C and a humidity of 40-60% to measure the moisture content of the stratum corneum (D 28 ), 28-day transepidermal water loss (D 28 ), 28-day hemoglobin EI value (D 28 ) and record the test. The technician will collect statistics and average the initial D0 values ​​of each subject to obtain the average D0 value, D 14 The value at D0 was subtracted from the value at D0 and then the average value of all subjects was calculated to obtain the stratum corneum moisture content D 14 -D0 change in average value, transepidermal water loss D 14 -The average value of D0 change and the average value of hemoglobin EI change. Similarly, D 28 -The average value of D0 change, the test results are shown in Table 5.

[0161] Table 5

[0162]

[0163] According to the table data, after applying the materials of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-8 for 14 days and 28 days, the water content of the stratum corneum skin has increased to a certain extent, the transepidermal water loss rate of the skin has decreased to a certain extent, and the skin hemoglobin content value has also decreased to a certain extent, indicating that the moisturizing repair cream provided by the present invention has excellent moisturizing ability and excellent skin barrier repair effect, and the skin redness is improved after use. Ceramide 3 liposomes, phytosterol esters, madecassoside, panthenol, shea butter, squalane, camellia seed oil, etc. work together to make the samples have a certain degree of repair ability. The moisturizing repair cream using Examples 1-4 is significantly better than the sample of the comparative example in terms of the increase in the water content of the stratum corneum skin, the decrease in the transepidermal water loss rate, and the decrease in the hemoglobin content, indicating that the material of the W / O / W multiple emulsification system has a more excellent repair effect.

[0164] The applicant declares that the present invention illustrates the process of the present invention through the above-mentioned embodiments, but the present invention is not limited to the above-mentioned embodiments, that is, it does not mean that the present invention must rely on the above-mentioned embodiments to be implemented. Those skilled in the art should understand that any improvement of the present invention, equivalent replacement of various raw materials of the product of the present invention, addition of auxiliary components, selection of specific methods, etc., all fall within the protection scope and disclosure scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A multi-emulsified moisturizing repair cream, characterized in that: The moisturizing and repairing cream comprises the following components by weight: Skin barrier repair agent 1.5-13 parts Moisturizer 6-16 parts Emollient 10-24 parts Emulsifier 2-6 parts; The emulsifier is a combination of sucrose polystearate, cetyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate; The total weight of the sucrose polystearate and cetyl palmitate is a, the total weight of the glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate is b, and a:b is (5-7):1; The skin barrier repair agent is a combination of ceramide 3 liposomes, phytosterol esters, madecassoside and panthenol; The moisturizing repair cream also includes a thickener, a pH neutralizer and an antibacterial agent; The multi-emulsified moisturizing and repairing cream is prepared by the following method, which comprises: (1) Mix the thickener, moisturizer and water, heat and stir at 75-80° C. to obtain a water phase component; mix the emulsifier and emollient, heat and stir at 70-75° C. to obtain an oil phase component; (2) mixing the water phase component and the oil phase component, and performing a first homogenizing stirring at 63-68° C. to obtain a water-in-oil material; (3) The water-in-oil material is mixed with a pH neutralizer, a skin barrier repair agent, and an antibacterial agent to obtain a mixture, and the mixture is subjected to a second homogenizing stirring at 20-40° C. to obtain the moisturizing repair cream.

2. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The skin barrier repair agent comprises, by weight, 0.5-5 parts of ceramide 3 liposome, 0.2-1 parts of phytosterol ester, 0.2-2 parts of madecassoside, and 1-5 parts of panthenol.

3. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The moisturizing agent includes any one of trehalose, hyaluronic acid, glycerol or butylene glycol, or a combination of at least two of them.

4. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 3, characterized in that: The moisturizing agent is a combination of trehalose, hyaluronic acid, glycerin and butylene glycol.

5. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 4, characterized in that: The moisturizing agent comprises, by weight, 2-5 parts of trehalose, 0.03-0.2 parts of hyaluronic acid, 1-4 parts of glycerol, and 3-6 parts of butylene glycol.

6. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The emollient includes any one of camellia seed oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, shea butter esters, triethylhexanoin, or isononyl isononanoate, or a combination of at least two thereof.

7. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 6, characterized in that: The emollient is a combination of camellia seed oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, shea butter esters, triethylhexanoin, and isononyl isononanoate.

8. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 7, characterized in that: The emollient comprises, by weight, 1-5 parts of camellia seed oil, 1-3 parts of argania spinosa kernel oil, 1-3 parts of squalane, 0.5-2 parts of tocopherol acetate, 2-5 parts of avocado esters, 2-5 parts of triethylhexanoin, and 1-3 parts of isononyl isononanoate.

9. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The emulsifier is calculated by weight as follows: 2-4 parts of sucrose polystearate, 1-3 parts of cetyl palmitate, 0.1-0.5 parts of glyceryl stearate, and 0.1-0.5 parts of PEG-100 stearate.

10. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The thickener is 0.2-0.7 parts.

11. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The thickener includes carbomer and / or xanthan gum.

12. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 11, characterized in that: The thickener is a combination of carbomer and xanthan gum.

13. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 12, characterized in that: The thickener comprises, by weight, 0.2-0.5 parts of carbomer and 0.03-0.2 parts of xanthan gum.

14. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The pH neutralizer is 0.05-0.25 parts.

15. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The pH neutralizer is aminomethyl propanol.

16. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The antibacterial agent is 1-2 parts.

17. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: The antibacterial agent includes p-hydroxyacetophenone and / or 1,2-hexanediol.

18. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 17, characterized in that: The antibacterial agent is a combination of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1,2-hexanediol.

19. The moisturizing and repairing cream according to claim 18, characterized in that: The antibacterial agent comprises 0.2-0.8 parts of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.3-0.8 parts of 1,2-hexanediol in parts by weight.

20. A method for preparing the moisturizing repair cream according to any one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that: The preparation method comprises: (1) mixing the thickener, moisturizer and water, heating and stirring at 75-80° C. to obtain a water phase component; mixing the emulsifier and emollient, heating and stirring at 70-75° C. to obtain an oil phase component; (2) mixing the water phase component and the oil phase component, and performing a first homogenizing stirring at 63-68° C. to obtain a water-in-oil material; (3) The water-in-oil material is mixed with a pH neutralizer, a skin barrier repair agent, and an antibacterial agent to obtain a mixture, and the mixture is subjected to a second homogenizing stirring at 20-40° C. to obtain the moisturizing repair cream.

21. The preparation method according to claim 20, characterized in that: The second homogenization and stirring further includes a vacuum defoaming step.

Images