A method for preparing a differentiated woven and shrunk strong texture woven fabric

Abstract

The present application relates to the technical field of woven fabric, in particular to a preparation method of differential woven shrinkage strong texture woven fabric, comprising the following steps: S1, according to the fabric design strong texture style requirements, the required warp yarn of the fabric adopts two groups of yarns, which are respectively the first group of warp yarn and the second group of warp yarn, and the two groups of yarns are the same or different yarns; S2, sizing, when the two kinds of yarns are the same yarn, the first group of warp yarn and the second group of warp yarn adopt the same sizing process; when the two kinds of yarns are different yarns, the first group of warp yarn and the second group of warp yarn respectively adopt the corresponding sizing process of each other; after sizing, the first group of warp yarn is made into A shaft, and the second group of warp yarn is made into B shaft; S3, after threading, the two groups of yarns are fed into the same fabric organization interweaving system weaving in the form of double shaft warp feeding, the warp feeding tension of A shaft is kept constant, and the warp feeding tension of B shaft changes by less than 30% in peak value. The present application is simple to process, and the finished product has strong texture feeling.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of woven fabrics, in particular to a preparation method of a differential weaving and shrinking strong texture woven fabric. BACKGROUND

[0002] Texture is a visual form presented on the surface of an object when different properties of materials are combined to form a whole, and each part is organized and matched by human beings. There are usually two ways of performance, one is to form a rich and varied fabric appearance by using different organizational structures of various fibers with different properties, and the other is to realize the visual appearance of the appearance by different processing methods. In modern product design and textile design, texture is an indispensable important design element, which can be used in texture construction in addition to color and luster to express product innovation through different tools and performance skills according to the aesthetic orientation of the fashion trend and the feeling of the object characteristics.

[0003] The texture of the existing textile is mainly formed by designing and processing the textile to form various longitudinal and transverse, high and low, rough and granular texture changes, so that the consumer can get a unique tactile experience. However, the processing of conventional textiles usually transmits the stress of yarn to each yarn through the tension of the whole fabric, all the yarns have the same weaving and shrinking, and a relatively flat and smooth surface is obtained, only a few yarns have local abnormalities due to defects such as twisting head and doubling in the textile process, which cannot change the overall appearance of the textile and cannot express innovation, and generally are defined as weaving defects that need to be cut off; in order to achieve overall texture change, the common design method of textile is mainly to change the innovation of fabric organization, different spinning methods, material and different yarn count of yarn matching, and to express the texture by changing the texture or shrinkage of the overall appearance of the fabric after weaving or dyeing and finishing; in this way, it is necessary to use a relatively complex jacquard fabric, the design difficulty is great, and the warp operation is complex; the way of matching different yarns has a great difficulty in weaving production, and the yarns are prone to relaxation, unclear opening or even unable to weave due to the differences in material, spinning method and yarn count, and the quality control difficulty is also great. SUMMARY

[0004] In view of the problems of the prior art texture fabric that is difficult to process and difficult to control quality, the present application provides a preparation method of a differential weaving and shrinking strong texture woven fabric, which adopts a simple fabric organization of "three origins", and can realize the strong texture style effect of the fabric surface by weaving and weaving, and the processing is simple, and the finished product has strong texture, prominent three-dimensional effect, dry touch and unique style, and the processing difficulty and design difficulty are obviously reduced.

[0005] The present application provides a preparation method of a differential weaving and shrinking strong texture woven fabric, which comprises the following steps:

[0006] S1, according to the design of the fabric muscle texture style requirements, the required warp yarn of the fabric adopts two groups of yarns, which are the first group of warp yarns and the second group of warp yarns, and the two groups of yarns are the same or different yarns;

[0007] S2, sizing, when the two yarns are the same yarn, the first group of warp yarns and the second group of warp yarns adopt the same sizing process; when the two yarns are different yarns, the first group of warp yarns and the second group of warp yarns adopt their respective corresponding sizing processes; according to the requirements of the yarns used, the same sizing process is set, or different sizing processes are used due to the difference between the yarns, so that both groups of yarns meet the requirements of synchronous weaving, after sizing, the first group of warp yarns is made into A shaft, and the second group of warp yarns is made into B shaft;

[0008] S3, after threading, the two groups of yarns are fed into the loom in the same fabric organization interweaving system in a double-shaft warp feeding mode, the warp tension of the loom configured with double weaving shafts is set through the adjustment of the computer program of the loom: the A shaft tension remains constant, and the B shaft adjusts the warp tension through pulse signal output warp tension information, forming a control of the warp tension periodic fluctuation, when the control standard of the warp tension is reduced, the measured tension is increased to speed up the rotation speed of the warp feeding servo motor, the warp feeding amount is increased, the warp yarn is bent to increase the bending height, and the warp yarn is tightened; after the tension signal returns to normal, the warp tension returns to tension, the A shaft and the B shaft tension synchronizes the flatness of the fabric; the change amount of the B shaft warp tension in the peak value interval is less than 30%, that is, the warp yarn can produce obvious weaving shrinkage difference through different warp feeding amounts, and at the same time, it will not affect the normal operation of the loom due to the small tension. Further, when the opening clarity of the double-shaft warp yarn is low due to the difference in tension, the yarn tension can be increased synchronously, and the height of the back rest can be adjusted to make the upper and lower layer tension of the warp yarn tend to be average, so as to improve the opening clarity and ensure the smooth weaving.

[0009] Further, in step S1, when the two groups of yarns are the same yarn, the number ratio of the first group of warp yarns to the second group of warp yarns is controlled to be 1:1 to 1:8, wherein the smaller number of warp yarns is used as a differential warp feeding group during weaving, and the number of different roots is used to show the intensity of the fabric texture. Alternatively, the second group of yarns can be set to be greater than the first group of yarns, and the fabric texture can be increased by changing the yarn count. According to the fabric requirement, the distribution ratio of the two groups of yarns and the number of the whole fabric are set, and the two groups of yarns are respectively warped according to the distribution of the two groups of yarns.

[0010] Further, in step S1, the warp yarns are cotton fibers, regenerated cellulose fibers or chemical fibers, which are obtained by pure spinning or blending, and the yarn count of the yarns is 10-80S.

[0011] Further, in step S2, the fabric organization is three original organization.

[0012] Further, the weave is one of plain weave, twill weave or satin weave.

[0013] Further, in step S3, the method of threading is to thread the yarns on the two beams on a threading machine using front and back arrangement, and to thread together and into the same group of stop motion, healds and reed according to the threading order required by the fabric weave. After the above preparation, the beams and stop motion, healds and reed are installed on the loom, the two beams are controlled by front and back different warp beam servo motors, and the warp beam tension is detected by different back beams to feed back information to the computer of the loom, which responds to control the warp beam speed.

[0014] Further, in step S3, the double-beam warp beam feeding method is to use front and back beam on-machine method or up and down beam on-machine method.

[0015] Further, in step S3, the woven fabric is subjected to loose dyeing and finishing treatment after weaving, which includes scouring and desizing of the fabric in an overflow cylinder. The loose dyeing and finishing treatment releases the yarn stress in a relaxed state, and further strengthens the fabric texture. Furthermore, in order to meet the appearance requirements of the fabric, the fabric is subjected to dyeing and tension setting. The dyeing ensures the color fastness and depth of the fabric, and the tension setting fixes the strong texture style of the fabric and controls the washing shrinkage.

[0016] The beneficial effects of the present application are:

[0017] (1) The warp yarns of the present application are designed by two groups of yarns, and the two groups of warp yarns use the same yarns or two groups of different yarns with different material properties, physical properties, spinning structures and yarn counts. The warp yarns are woven and processed by different warp beam feeding methods and differential warp beam tension feeding, so that the partially uniformly distributed warp yarns increase in shrinkage and significantly increase in bending height, thereby protruding on the relatively flat fabric surface to form a fabric appearance with obvious striped strong texture and create a unique style of textile fabric.

[0018] (2) The two groups of warp yarns on the loom are subjected to different preset warp beam tension according to the required fabric texture strength, the first group of warp yarns uses a constant unwinding tension preset value, and the unwinding tension is always controlled in a stable range; the second group of warp yarns automatically adjusts the unwinding tension regularly to present a "large-small" stage change, so that the warp yarns present a "tension-relaxation" state with the change of tension, and the warp beam tension peak value interval change is less than 30%, the yarns are pushed by beating-up force to increase in shrinkage when relaxed, forming a bending enhanced texture feeling protruding on the fabric surface, and the two groups of warp yarns return to the normal flat fabric state in the tensioned state.

[0019] (3) The application prepares a differentiated woven and shrunk strong muscle texture woven fabric, without the need to pass through a complex fabric organization design, reduces the difficulty of fabric design, and can adapt to various weaving scenes caused by different yarns due to material properties, yarn count differences, or different sizing processes that cause stiffness and different elongation of yarns, solving the problems of weft failure, warp breakage and parking caused by too loose yarns during synchronous let-off process; The processed fabric has full grain feeling, good natural irregular feeling of uneven dispersion, strong texture feeling, unique style, and meets the personalized needs of consumers. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0020] In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present application or the prior art, the following will briefly introduce the drawings needed to be used in the embodiments or the prior art description. Obviously, for those skilled in the art, other drawings can also be obtained without creative labor on the basis of these drawings.

[0021] Figure 1 is the appearance diagram of the finished fabric prepared in embodiment 1 of the present application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0022] In order to make the person skilled in the art better understand the technical solutions in the present application, the following will combine the drawings in the embodiments of the present application to clearly and completely describe the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present application. Obviously, the described embodiments are only part of the embodiments of the present application, not all. Based on the embodiments in the present application, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative labor should belong to the scope of protection of the present application.

[0023] Embodiment 1

[0024] According to the actual fabric as a leisure shirt fabric requirement, the fabric technical specification is set as 433 roots / 10 cm x 315 roots / 10 cm width 160 cm, the yarn count density is 19.7 tex x 19.7 tex, the warp and weft yarns use cotton / irregular cross-section polyester fiber blending, the blending ratio is 70:30, and the ring spinning yarn is spun.

[0025] According to the strong muscle texture style requirement of the leisure shirt fabric, the same warp yarns are divided into two groups, the number ratio of the first group of warp yarns to the second group of warp yarns is 5:1, and the yarn number is set according to the technical specification of the fabric: the first group of warp yarns is 5773 roots, and the second group of warp yarns is 1155 roots.

[0026] According to the material of the yarn and the fabric technical specification of the fabric weaving difficulty requirements, the same sizing process is developed, and the sizing sizing process is adopted: corn phosphate ester modified starch 87.5 kg, polyvinyl alcohol 1799 15 kg, acrylic sizing material 10 kg, sizing volume 0.8 cubic meters, sizing solid content 11.6%, sizing viscosity 6.8 s, sizing rate 13%, and two groups of yarns are sized to make A shaft and B shaft.

[0027] According to the fabric design requirements, 3 / 1 twill fabric organization is adopted, double shaft is combined and then the warp is threaded in the forward direction, after the stop motion is threaded in, four columns of healds are threaded in according to 1, 2, 3, 4 in turn, and then the warp is threaded in at 2 ends per reed; the two groups of warp yarns are threaded in the order of 5A1B, that is, after threading in 5 ends of the first group of warp yarns, 1 end of the second group of warp yarns is threaded in, and the threading is repeated until the entire width of the warp yarns is threaded in.

[0028] According to the double weaving shaft loom configuration, the front and rear shaft weaving on-loom method is adopted, the A shaft is in the front shaft frame, the B shaft is in the rear shaft, according to the proportion of the two groups of yarns in the total number of warp ends and the strength calculation corresponding to the yarn number, the A shaft of the loom is set to 320 kgf, the B shaft is controlled by the pulse signal servo motor, the control upper and lower peak value of the warp tension during the control period is 65 kgf~45 kgf, and the change band of the warp tension is controlled by the cycle length of the pulse signal.

[0029] The woven gray fabric is subjected to dyeing and finishing process, and is subjected to scouring, desizing, bleaching and setting according to the bleaching treatment requirements of spring and summer casual clothing shirts, and the finished fabric processing is completed.

[0030] Figure 1 The physical appearance of the finished fabric prepared in Example 1 is shown, and it can be seen that the fabric surface has a striped strong texture style.

[0031] Example 2

[0032] According to the actual fabric application requirements as casual clothing, the fabric technical specification is set as 472 ends / 10 cm x 354 ends / 10 cm width 160 cm, the yarn density is 18.4 tex + 19.7 tex x 18.4 tex, the warp yarn is divided into two kinds, the first group of warp yarn is pure cotton compact spinning 18.4 tex yarn, the second group of warp yarn is cotton / Lyocell blended compact spinning 19.7 tex, the blending ratio is 50:50, and the two kinds of yarns are well distinguished.

[0033] According to the strong texture style requirement of casual wear fabric, the same warp yarns are divided into two groups, the first group of warp yarns and the second group of warp yarns are used in the proportion of 3:1, with the increase of the proportion of the second group of warp yarns, the fabric texture is more intense, and because the color absorption of lyocell is better than cotton, through blending and yarn count adjustment, the texture effect of the fabric after dyeing is further strengthened; according to the technical specification of the fabric, the yarn count is set as: the first group of warp yarns 5664 roots, the second group of warp yarns 1888 roots.

[0034] According to the material used for reference yarn and the technical specification of the fabric, different sizing processes are required for sizing; the first group of warp yarns is pure cotton material, compact spun yarn, the sizing process is: corn phosphate ester modified starch 75 kg, polyvinyl alcohol 1799.5 kg, acrylic sizing material 5 kg, sizing volume 0.8 cubic meters, sizing solid content 9.0%, sizing viscosity 6.5 s, sizing rate 11%; the second group of warp yarns is cotton / lyocell blended, compact spun yarn, the sizing process is: corn phosphate ester modified starch 50 kg, polyvinyl alcohol 1799.8 kg, acrylic sizing material 5 kg, sizing volume 0.8 cubic meters, sizing solid content 6.6%, sizing viscosity 5.0 s, sizing rate 12%; the two groups of yarns are sized respectively to make A shaft and B shaft.

[0035] According to the design requirements of the fabric, 2 / 1 twill fabric organization is adopted, double shaft is combined and then threaded in the forward direction, after threading in the stop motion piece, three columns of healds are threaded in order according to 1, 2, 3, and then threaded in at 3 per reed; the threading sequence of the two groups of warp yarns is 3A1B, that is, after threading 3 roots of the first group of warp yarns, 1 root of the second group of warp yarns is threaded, and the threading is repeated until the entire width of the warp yarns is threaded.

[0036] According to the configuration of double weaving shaft loom, the front and rear shaft weaving on-loom method is adopted, A shaft is in front beam, B shaft is in back beam, according to the total warp root number and yarn number, the A shaft of the loom is set to send machine tension of 320 kgf, the B shaft sending warp tension is controlled by servo motor according to pulse signal, the peak value of up and down during control of sending warp tension is 105 kgf-75 kgf, the change band of sending warp tension is controlled by the length of pulse signal cycle.

[0037] The finished gray cloth is processed through dyeing and finishing process, through overflow cylinder loose finishing method, according to the bleaching treatment requirements of spring and summer casual wear shirt, the gray cloth is cooked, desized, pre-set, dyed and set to complete the finished fabric processing.

[0038] Although the present application has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the application is not limited to those preferred embodiments. Various modifications and equivalents can be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the application. Any and all modifications and equivalents are intended to be included within the scope of the present application.

Claims

1. A method of making a differential woven, shrunk, and embossed woven fabric, characterized by, It comprises the following steps: S1, according to the design of strong muscle texture style requirements, the warp yarns required by the fabric are two groups of yarns, which are the first group of warp yarns and the second group of warp yarns, and the two groups of yarns are the same or different yarns; S2, sizing, when the two kinds of yarns are the same kind of yarn, the first group of warp yarns and the second group of warp yarns adopt the same sizing process; when the two kinds of yarns are different kinds of yarns, the first group of warp yarns and the second group of warp yarns adopt their respective corresponding sizing processes; After sizing, the first group of warp yarns is made into A shaft, and the second group of warp yarns is made into B shaft; S3, after threading, the two groups of yarns are fed into the loom in the same fabric organization interweaving system in the form of double shaft warp feeding, the A shaft warp feeding tension remains constant, the B shaft warp feeding tension is automatically adjusted in a regular manner to present a "large-small" stage change, so that the B group warp yarns present a "tension-relaxation" state with the change of tension, and the peak value change of B shaft warp feeding tension is less than 30%.

2. The method for preparing the differentiated shrinkage-strength textured woven fabric as described in claim 1, characterized in that, In step S1, when the two groups of yarns are the same kind of yarn, the quantity ratio of the first group of warp yarns to the second group of warp yarns is controlled at 1:1 to 1:

8.

3. The method for preparing the differentiated shrinkage-strength textured woven fabric as described in claim 1, characterized in that, In step S1, the warp yarns are cotton fiber, regenerated cellulose fiber or chemical fiber, which are obtained by pure spinning or blending.

4. The method of claim 1, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric.

5. The method of claim 1, wherein the fabric is a knitted fabric. In step S2, the fabric organization is three original organization.

5. The method of claim 4, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric. The three original organization is one of plain weave, twill or satin.

6. The method of claim 1, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric. In step S3, the threading method is to arrange the yarns on the two beams in front and back on the threading machine, and then thread them together, and according to the threading sequence required by the fabric organization, thread them into the same group of stop warp, heald and reed in turn.

7. The method of claim 1, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric. In step S3, the double shaft warp feeding method is to arrange the yarns on the front and back beams or the upper and lower beams.

8. The method of claim 1, wherein the fabric is a woven fabric. In step S3, after weaving, the fabric is subjected to loose dyeing and finishing treatment, which includes scouring and degumming of the fabric in the overflow cylinder.

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